I think EA has now fallen into one of the most common pitfalls of F2P games: They're targeting whales. People for whom spending $1000 on anything means so little to them that they don't care. Management looks at their sales numbers, sees that they do make a lot of money off the expensive stuff, and keep making more expensive stuff.

Problem is, it's a very short term mindset. When the regulars see how impossible it is to keep up, they leave until the only people left are the whales, and when the whales have nobody to brag to or play with, they'll eventually leave too. The fewer people that are playing, the less attention the game gets, the harder it is to replace players who quit.

With this game specifically, that scenario could be very bad for EA because Disney is licensing out the Star Wars brand for both profit and publicity. If it's generating negative attention or being used for for games that are being ignored, EA risks losing it when their contract is up for renewal.

Vote with your wallets. See a F2P game that has abusive pricing practices? Go play something else. It's not really much different than those insanely priced HDMI cables. The people who do buy are never going to be talked out of it.

I'm going to take this in the opposite direction.

ALWAYS buy a cheap HDMI cable. They work just as well as the $200 Monster cables.

Edit: I cringed.

You should have bought a better HDMI cable.

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*

$1000, that's cute. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Be careful with terminology. You don't need a converter. You need a displayport to HDMI cable. No adapter or anything. They might use the word adapter in the description for the cable, but a converter is a different thing and usually used to go from HDMI out to DisplayPort in.

​

Something like this should be fine.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&qid=1564670599&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Diamond edition

Non-locking DisplayPort cables exist

wait only $1000? please that is peasant change

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You mean this isn't a good buy??

One of these bad boys

Not just Brick & Mortar.

ha. You buy gold plated?!
The real quality comes from [diamond](http://www.AudioQuest.com/ Diamond 16m (52.49 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVLZzbM83Z16H)

Pssh...that's still small time. Those guys need to get on AudioQuest's level: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

100 euro power cable? seems legit

at least its not a 1000 dollar HDMI cable

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

It's got nothing on this

You mean the Diamond HDMI cable that I paid nearly $1,500 for is almost exactly the same as one I could pick up for $5???

I can't believe people would just go on the internet and deceive others in order to sell their overpriced product! /s

Joking aside, I feel bad for people who don't know this and spend any more than $10 on an HDMI cable.

A link for the lazy.

I'm glad I had an extra $13,500 laying around for the 16m one. And silly me had the side with the down arrow connected to my monitor. Everything started working once I switched both ends.

Might has well just punch your TV, rather than insult it with such low quality cables. If you aren't using THESE, than you don't deserve to use a TV!

Shit, even $50 cables are too risky for me. That's why I get the AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable.

The reviews are solid gold

Monster cables are rookies with their $100 cables. I think you mean audioquest, makers of the $1500 HDMI cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

unless you buy this badboy

Unless it was this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT2A2M?pc_redir=1406538610&robot_redir=1

dont forget this

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2FJF1RRE0QUS4&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable&qid=1558727011&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+hd%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

Wouldnt wanna sacrifice any quality..

Maybe a braided mat of these?

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Well, we got the diamond half down.

35€ sind übrigens nix:

https://www.amazon.de/audioquest-chocolate-HDMI-Kabel-Länge/dp/B0034HSVXY

https://www.amazon.de/Audioquest-Diamond-HDMI-Kabel-Meter/dp/B003CT2A6I

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

Quick note, that DVI-D to Display port won't do 144hz. You need https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY or some other active powered adapter. They're usually 100 bucks or so. I was considering getting one because I had the same problem as you but I just bit the bullet and bought a new monitor.

There is such a thing as "zero" latency, but only with AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cable, found here. (Technically, it has negative latency since it uses time warping technology).

It is a bit pricier than your average cable, but it comes with free shipping.

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

I've always liked this product.

That HDMI cable is shit. Get this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/

You can get 4D with this cable.

Topically relevant. Check the reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

this one cost 13,000

Make sure it is one of the very high quality ones.
Like this

Thats a VGA female to DVI male adaptor. You can get them at just about any electronics store. Here's one on amazon.

The 0's are OK, but after many copies, some of the 1's may start losing fidelity, so they become 0.9, then 0.8 and so on. Past a certain point the playback software will not be able to discern that from a 0, and will have to interpolate from neighboring pixels. The interpolation process will lower the resolution so the original 1080p will start looking like 720p.

You can keep the bits fresh by using ethernet cable from reputable manufactures such as Denon.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AKDL1-Dedicated-/dp/B000I1X6PM

Unfortunately they stopped making it so our videos are doomed to lose their 1's eventually.

But you can compensate for that by playing back the videos over a high-quality HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

My god, $7,000? I could buy five HDMI cables for that!

When you're feeling the inevitable buyer's remorse, just remind the people laughing at you that it was endorsed by Sylvester Stallone. Probably won't help, but worth a try.

I prefer the $2,694.75 one...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top you mean this one? I hope it raises my children too, for that price!

This is the cable you want to get to replace it.

Is this a good deal? AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable - $1,094.75

But please, continue with this type of reviews.

> Price "cheaper than a cable"

That's not too dificult

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

Fuggin pleb, you can't handle my HDMI cable.

Nah you've gotta go Diamond! https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495904263&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+hdmi

That's what I say. These non-grilling fuckboys don't know. You can buy a grill like that for $600-700 and you can also buy one that looks like this for $2000.

You can probably even get the exact same one from 2 different retailers.

this is a $14,000 hdmi cable. There's a sucker born every minute

Don't cheap out on HDMI cables, get those diamond grade cable from amazon.

> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable

Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.

This 1000x over.

I could never truly appreciate the pimples on the crack whore's ass in my favorite porn until I bought a set of these

AmazonBasics is VESA certified, so you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

Good alternative if you want to be the very best

Note: Also Vesa Certified

> just because you're paying more for it doesn't mean it's better

Are you saying this cable isn't worth it?

They sell a 16m one too...

I wouldn't take amazon's prices as the market prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

> like this one

What the actual fuck? I mean, it doesn't even have Solid HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION

YUV420 is the same as RGB, just with the color compressed down to 1080p. Our eyes are less sensitive to color information than they are to luminance, so the difference is typically imperceptible. And the only difference would be a very light color bleed around the edges.

If you see a significant difference in the way colors display, then that's your TV's settings, not the ps4.

That flashing means your HDMI cable doesn't have enough bandwidth for 4K60 in RGB and is dropping the signal. If you buy a premium certified cable (the Pro's included cable is not certified) it should solve that. The cheapest one on the market is from Monoprice:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TowlzbT6Q1H99

But any cable with that specific QR code (to prove certification) will work.

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

DO NOT buy this rig....

...unless you make sure you have the right HDMI cables to prevent digital signal degradation for your video output!!!!

How about a $1,500 one?

>* Audioquest :)

Idk, I traded my HD800s for this and audio has never been clearer on my 720p Insignia

You can use that gift card to ALMOST purchase a suitable HDMI cable.

Sorry, but you're going to have to expand your budget

You mean 13449.75?

£90 is nothing

What about $13,500

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=13979917011&ie=UTF8&qid=1497510686&sr=8-1

13K for a cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

Definitely no need for adapters. There are several Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cables at various lengths. I’ve been using two of these for years without issue.

Mini DP to HDMI via this cable.

Das hier tuts genauso, und kostet nur 6,99€.

Get away from me, you filthy casual.

Make sure you blast your MIDIs through a high quality HDMI cable like this or this. Otherwise, they will just sound like shit and you also don't want people to think you're poor.

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

DVI-to-VGA

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

From the compared $1k HDMI cable.

I think that is an out of stock price... This obscene thing is real🙁

Edit: Hold the phone! That price is now a bargain.

Audio quest indeed.

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

This one costs twice as much:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1

[but hdmi is rlly expensive] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8)

You cannot run 720p (or 1080p) through a composite signal. You need a component cable (red,blue,green w/red & white audio):

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-360-Component-HD-Cable/dp/B000B6MLPU

Unfortunately it appears your television doesn't have component inputs.

You could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6 but at this point you're approaching the cost of a more recent secondhand 360 with hdmi.

It may be a bad DisplayPort cable. When it comes to DP, cable quality matters. Even the ones included with such high end monitors are questionable - if all else fails, I'd suggest buying a new one, this one is highly revered.

Not to one up you, but there's this.

Here are my favorites http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458584294&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hdmi+audioquest+diamond&dpPl=1&dpID=41cGG7FbEwL&ref=plSrch

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

Amazon has 25ft HDMI 2.0b cables for $13.09 or if you don't care about the cable being a lot bulkier you can get a CL3 rated 2.0b cable for $10.99

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

Amazon Basics do huge HDMI cables and they work great.
Standard
Braided
Both under $10.
I run a Pro with 4K HDR with one of these.

I also couldn't get the recommended HDMI extension cables to work. What ended up working for me was an HDMI repeater with a standard 10 foot Amazon HDMI cable.

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).

Edit: Not sure if these support 144hz properly, but works for 60hz. If anyone knows, please chime in.

Edit2: After some research, you need an active adapter, which are very pricey for proper 144hz output.

https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Plated-Quality-DisplayPort-DVI-D/dp/B00H8CAOYK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466162692&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+dvi+to+displayport

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

:D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

Here's the cable for it.

Here is what I found on Amazon. The reviews are hilarious too.

You'll need one of these to protect against viruses.

obligatory comedy cable reviews

You'd be surprised what people pay for HDMI cables

"fat ps3 circa 2004"

You mean 2006.

Sony actually sells their own component-to-AV cable (you sure your PS3 didn't come with RCA cables instead of component?) and it's rated to go all the way up to 1080i so you can use Component for HD.


Have a read: http://us.playstation.com/ps3/accessories/component-av-cable-ps3.html


Then use something like this to convert Component to HDMI if your TV doesn't have Component. It's finicky but it should work.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6


EDIT:I meant component-to-AV not component-to-HDMI. Also added info if TV doesnt have component connectors (which all should unless it's a PC monitor).

I bought this one for my 240hz, to replace the OEM one that was failing.

It's certified.

As others have pointed out you will need a Display Port, but i suggest you get this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=twister_B01LY6Y25W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not all display ports on amazon support 144hz, this is the cable i got and im running 2 144hz monitors with them.

This list can be used to find certified DisplayPort cables. This Accell DisplayPort cable seems to be commonly recommended, but I'm in NZ so I wound up going with another option here.

Well either get an active adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or spend that $100+ to upgrade your monitor.

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

What, you don't want to pay $13k for an HDMI cable?!

How about the $14,000 hdmi cord. Don't forget to read the reviews. My favorite: a reviewer gave it 1 star because "it doesn't work with my VCR."

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

What matters most is that the cable is VESA certified. Without this certification, you have no way of knowing if 144hz at 1440p will work. Your cable may not work at higher refresh rates.

Here is one that's certified.

List of all VESA certified cables

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

It's a huge pain to set up port conversion on these monitors. You'll need an active DisplayPort to DVI dual link adapter, which cost over a hundred dollars and have been reported to not work consistently with 144 HZ. Other stuff, like passive DP>DVI or HDMI>DVI cables don't work with high refresh rates. The one DVI-D port on your card would work fine, but don't expect to get 144 HZ on the other monitor.

Here's one, read the reviews if you want more info.

well if its a 144hz monitor, it means the only way to get 144hz is through dvi dual link, since you only have dp and hdmi youd have to shell out about 100 bones for an active dp to dual link dvi adapter

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_3/154-4758909-6057755?ie=UTF8&qid=1484137065&sr=8-3&keywords=AudioQuest+diamond#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IL3TZSQ&pd_rd_r=DGEKYJ4BC9NDJTWP1B7B&pd_rd_w=W6dlo&pd_rd_wg=Kiyho&psc=1&refRID=DGEKYJ4BC9NDJTWP1B7B

$13,500*

The questions section on Amazon for it are pretty great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA1259NXSAFFBVV7HPBD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9K87MXWTXYRJKYT9Y0PA

At least you get free shipping.

The mall with the value village has a lil used computer shop and there is one near the Mitsubishi dealership.

Alternatively. They sell a dvi to VGA adaptor dongle that was popular when dvi cards first rolled out and everyone still have VGA monitors. (Hell anyone with an old cards likely have them collecting dust) looks like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067SOH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mb44Ab48H3T80

I have been using one with no issue on newer cards, OTV would absolutely have one to buy. Not sure if that fits your specific requirements but its my guess what you are up to.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

My guess is you bought one of those cheap unshielded ones. You should really invest in one more like this.

Dude don't cheap out on your HDMI cables, get this one

/s

obviously you haven't had the same experience as these Amazon Reviewers

HA Haha Hahaha HAAAAHAHAHAHA... Gold?

Get that pussy-ass pleb shit outta here! We got diamonds now, bitch.

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

Do the displayport to HDMI. I believe it carries sound that way.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Just get a DisplayPort --> HDMI cable for your monitor so the HDMI port is free for the Rift.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/

I bought this and it works perfectly fine for me.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI 2.0 Extension Cable - 10 Feet

MSI Z170A, i5 6600k, RX 480 8GB.

The answer is premium CERTIFIED cables. The ones with the QR code on the packaging. If they dont have the QR code then they arent certified no matter what the package says. I had the same issue and this fixed it. All cable are not created equal. even the exact brand model vary between cables. Premium certified are actually pulled and tested for specifically this.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747255&sr=8-2&keywords=HDMI+premium+certified

You need to look for a HDMI Premium certified cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497540721&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+premium+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41UMBnDu5kL&ref=plSrch

It sounds like you know the answer: HDMI 2.0+ or DisplayPort 1.2.

https://www.displayninja.com/which-cable-do-i-need-for-144hz/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/

I just bought this monitor a month ago for the same price and I'm loving it. Incredible value, great picture quality.

I'll only add in that the included display port cable didn't work with my setup, so I bought this one on Amazon and it works perfect. Running g-sync on 1080ti.

Since you didn't tell us which exact MicroCenter location you've got, I am not able to maybe suggest a few more parts to get from them locally. Some parts also may be out of stock.

But I decided to go a bunch lower in terms of budget compared to /u/Lolmuhhhhhhh 's great suggestion.

CS:GO / LoL are not demanding games at all and even this system is "overkill" for it, but hey. It's a very good system.

---

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
I'll also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center (combo)
Motherboard | MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $30.00 @ Micro Center (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $30.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $65.98 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $99.99 @ Micro Center
Cable| HDMI to HDMI (10 feet)| $6.50 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Adesso EasyTouch135 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $24.91 @ Amazon
Mouse | SteelSeries Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse | $32.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | No rebates!
| Total | $863.20
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

• What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.
  
  
• What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ◄ Important!
  
• What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
  
• What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
  
• CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
  
• GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
  
• How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ◄ Important!
  
• What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
  
• Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
  
• DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
  
• What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  
• Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  
• Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  
• SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
  
• What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ◄ Important!
  
• Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ◄ Important!
  
• Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
  
• What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
  
• What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
  
• Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  
• Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  
• What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
  
• What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
  
• What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02
  
  Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Guides
  

  
  ---
  
  Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
  
  

• How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
  This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
  It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
  I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
  I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
  There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
  
  
• How to install a 115x CPU?
  Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  
• How to install thermal compound?
  The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
  Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
  Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  
• How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
  You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  
• How to set up your SSD & HDD?
  This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
  
• How to use Ninite?
  This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

Am I wrong to assume you want to hook the PS5 to a monitor? Just buy an HDMI to display port chord.

DP to HDMI cables are a thing. Example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

It's a Displayport

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

For high refresh rate and gync you need displayport 1.4.

I have a bunch of these and they work fine.

As for cables that will 100% work, you don't have to go further than the amazonbasics

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/B01J8S6X2I/

There are 5 types of connector

So long as the thunderbolt adapter you're using is DVI (not VGA), you will need a single-link DVI-D cable (or a dual-link DVI-D cable, the adapter won't support it but it will work)

I'm assuming your monitors are flat panels (since you can get old CRT glass screen monitors with DVI-A sockets.. these are analog and rare!).

DVI-D will work with Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter

DVI-A and DVI-I might work with Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter and a VGA to DVI-A but this will require you monitor to work in digital (which all modern flat screens do) as well as Analog (not all DVI sockets support this, you can tell if it has 4 pins around the blade slot)

Basically, if you have a VGA adapter with your mac, expect more problems with flat screens that only have DVI

There's two types of DVI connectors: DVI-D and DVI-I. Only DVI-I is capable of an analog signal, but it looks like your card has that connector (double check me on that). If so you just need a simple DVI-I to VGA adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Make sure it's DVI-I instead of DVI-D by looking at pics of the connectors online, they are slightly different. If its DVI-i there's no conversion necessary and no input lag introduced.

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

If I'm ever rich I'll buy this just because fuck it

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4/

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

I'm sorry, but looking at the reviews of this HDMI cable it does seem that the more expensive cables are A LOT better.

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

Are you using the displayport cable that came with the monitor?

I've been having flickering issues with my LG 34UC88 (not as severe as yours) with an RX 480 and RX Vega. I've read up that the DP cable can cause issues similar to ours. I ordered a VESA certified cable from Amazon (URL below) that should be delivered tomorrow and hopefully that resolves my issue. Read the reviews and see if the issues others have seen are similar to yours.

Accell B142C-007B UltraAV DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable

I guess I shouldn't have let my mind go in that direction. There is also this HDMI cable on amazon priced to sell at $13,499.75 to consider: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472771011&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

Yes, and far more expensive ones as well

Thats just an example.

That's amateur stuff.

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

The reviews are just how one might predict, lampooning:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

First, find the right cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ

Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.

I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV

Anywhere that sells TV or computer cables will have HDMI. You can even find them in many drug stores (very limited selection, but still). Here's one on Amazon. You'll probably want at least that length so you can set the laptop somewhere, but REALLY long HDMI cables can be finicky.

Had a quick look at Amazon, and the Club 3D CAC-2068 from Amazon.ca is probably your best bet. DisplayPort 1.4, and it has Prime shipping. At 25 bucks, it's not cheap compared to a lot of other cables, but that's the premium you pay for a VESA-certified cable. Should be a rock solid cable for any monitor you throw at it.

There's also the Accell UltraAV but it's only DP 1.2, and the Startech.com Cable has too many negative reviews for me to recommend it.

vga to dvi adapters are cheap.

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

Then you need a DVI to VGA adapter to plug in to your graphics card.

A lot of the time your motherboard or your graphics card will include this adapter.

You have to get a special one that's powered. Here's one I found on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U/

An active adapter is not a cord. It's a box.

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

Then you'll need active Displayport to DVI-D adapters, two of them, that support 144Hz at 1080p.

I have this one, I haven't found a cheaper one that supports 144Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481571274&sr=8-4&keywords=dvi+displayport+144hz

Sure, I have two GTX770 cards and the inputs they have are DVI-I (Analog and Digital), DVI-D (Digital), HDMI, and DisplayPort. This QNIX QX2710 monitor requires at least a dual link DVI cable in order to function. DVI-I and DVI-D both support dual-link DVI. Therefore, four of my six monitors are powered by the DVI inputs on my GPUs.

For the remaining two monitors, you need to use the DisplayPort input. HDMI won't work with these monitors, the maximum resolution of HDMI 1.4a (which is what the GTX770 supports) is 1200p@60Hz.

EDIT: I was wrong about HDMI 1.4 not supporting 1440p. It actually does support resolutions up to 2160p @ 24hz, and you can apparently possibly overclock up to 120hz by unlocking and increasing the pixel clock on the graphics card, which is what I am trying now.

The remaining two monitors must use a special DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI converter in order to work. There really is no other way otherwise, unfortunately. And these converters are not cheap, they go for around $100 each if you were to buy them on Amazon. What I managed to do was find similar Dell BizLink cables at a much cheaper price on eBay (~$50), and these are the ones I bought from different sellers. Those cables also require an available USB port for extra power.

So, for your case, if you want to run those GPUs separately it would be simple to use the DVI inputs for all of them. If you want to SLI, you're going to have to buy one of those DP to dual-link DVI converters to get that third monitor to work.

I thought we were going off of dual link :P [Heres how much one cost in canada though, pretty goddamn expensive] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19N3NI8X4F24J)

Any mDP to HDMI adapter should work.
Personally, I prefer specific cables with the right plugs on both ends rather than using an adapter to convert a regular cable at one end.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

That won't work, this will
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

But in all seriousness yes it will hah.

They only sound terrible because you're not using the right Monster cables.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 best cable on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs

Needed more diamond

Edit: MOAR !!

Here's a 3 ft one that costs more than $1000: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They also have a 52 ft version: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/

People use those cheap $400 cables? I guess some people just don't care about real quality.

I highly recommend using this USB cable. It really is the only way to make your charging port last longer.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable only $1,000.00 USD on Amazon.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

Peasants won't know about my glorious HDMI Cable!

Make sure to get this Diamond HDMI cable to get a 144Hz 4K signal!

Luxottica's market behavior clearly has some pretty serious effects on the price of an essential medical device, which you acknowledge.

I would estimate markups far higher than 200-300%, though. The wholesale prices of Luxottica's products look like retail prices for other products with similar supply chains, produced by manufacturers with far less verticality and negotiating power. Lets be realistic: competitively durable and fashionable eyeglasses could realistically retail in the $25-$50 range, sans lenses.

I would encourage you to consider what the loss or destruction of a pair of glasses by a kid who needs them can do to a struggling family's monthly budget, before you conclude that this sort of markup doesn't have fairly enormous negative social effects.

>Do we say that even though high-end clothes/accessories/etc. charge a huge markup that the consumers are being exploited?

Where each individual draws the line will probably differ, but I think most would agree that it certainly can be exploitative. I don't think that one factor is enough to dispositively conclude that an act is or is not exploitative.

Can we get a DIAMOND MICRO-USB for $2000 though? Like these but smaller: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Should of got one of these

Oh I dunno about that

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Read the reviews, you will know what you must do

Yeah. I think this one might actually work http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

OP should try it and let us know

If you want the best, then this is what you want: http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

Well, this one has better reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

The pen needs a diamond HDMI cable matching accessory designed by Sylvester Stallone™. Add skulls, some truck nuts, and maybe a tribal design...bingo bango we double the price.

Also, I'd like the Chaos if it only accepted cartridges.

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

Diamond HDMI cabling to reduce lag.
http://amzn.com/B003CT2A6I

I would look to upgrading the AVR as all the video is analog. If you insist on keeping it, a Component to HDMI converter is what you need. Something like this is what you need to stay on the budget friendly side.

I use these 10' cables to extend the link box and have had zero issues. The Amazon basics HDMI is pretty good quality and I make sure to plug the Cable Matters USB 3.0 wire into a 2.0 port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_UqC38H59ci4DL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9KJY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_IaA2Y3O6wb2iK

you might want to check out this new and relatively unknown store

I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=25+hdmi+cable&qid=1567178417&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The amazon basics like these offers the 2.0 HDMI standard at fraction of the cost. This is only 25 feet though.

Don't spend that much money on a HDMI cable

Ninja edit. Used wrong link at first

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

yeah. depending on what video card you're using, you should be able to get audio out over it as well.

you can get a DisplayPort to HMDI cable from Amazon. look for one that does audio, if you need audio out on the TV.

here's an adapter

here's a cable

DP to hdmi. And i have tried all different brands and they all work good. I love amazon basic cables and their stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Alright. Both of your monitors only have HDMI, but your card only has one HDMI port.

So you will need one HDMI to HDMI and one DisplayPort to HDMI.

The video ports you want to use are on the video card, not on the motherboard. Video ports on a motherboard are only using the CPU's built-in GPU, if it has it--this is generally a significantly weaker GPU and not suited for gaming, though it is fine for a secondary monitor and casual web browsing/office PC uses. If you go with a Ryzen 2700x, it doesnt even *have* an integrated gpu, so the ports on the motherboard are totally dead and not used at all.

. The card I linked (and most cards of that performance tier) will have 1 HDMI + 3 or so Displayports, but a HDMI to Displayport cable is dirt cheap, only like $11, so you can plug the HDMI end into your monitor/tablet/whatever and the DVI end into your GPU.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

These two extension cables are what I use to extend my Rift, and they work flawlessly. This is Canadian amazon though so you can prob get them even cheaper on American site or where ever you are from.

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

I use these cables:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE

And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU

Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.

These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use them with my lenovo explorer

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.

Grab a $6 Certified Monoprice HDMI cable off amazon if you’re in the states.

Had the same problem, got the cable and the problem hasn’t returned.


Edit: I tried the safe mode thing as well, but it didn’t last long.

[This one](Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 6 Feet | 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OU-3Cb51VMGV0)

High Speed with Ethernet means it’s at least HDMI v1.4.

There’s 4 categories of cable:

• Category 1: Standard
  
• Category 2: High Speed
  
• Category 3: Premium High Speed, 18Gbps and works with HDMI v2.0. Not sure if all distances though, those state the same gusts up to 10ft, and blue jeans specifically state their FE cable is Premium up to 15ft.
  
• Category 4: 48G, works with HDMI v2.1; not yet released.
  
  They are all backwards-compatible.

This is the cable everyone should be using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1

Most HDMI cables SHOULD be able to pass a 4K signal, but many don't. You need CERTIFIED, PREMIUM 4K HDMI cables w/ the gold "HDMI.org" logo($6 on Amazon): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Hi again, I just reset the sound bar and while it did not inherently fix the problem I did stumbled upon a workaround that seems to at least be reliable.

1. play video from Apple TV 4k
   
   
2. the tv displays "No Signal" screen while playing audio out of sound bar
   
   
3. power off sound bar
   
   
4. TV displays passthrough 4k video and plays audio through internal TV speakers
   
   
5. Turn sound bar back on
   
   
6. TV displays 4k video and Atmos / 5.1 etc play out of the sound bar
   
   
   And to answer your question yes - I am using a certified HDMI cable, I am using these:
   
   
   Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's an entirely different cable than hdmi. It's possible some monitors come with one, but mine only came with hdmi. Here's a link if you need one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

From the manual it says DVI-D(Dual Channel) or DisplayPort are required for anything over 75hz. So either a DisplayPort Cable or a DVI-D Cable.

Need the exact specs for this but looking at general 670 specs, it has 1x HDMI 1.4 and 1x DP 1.2 ports. HDMI 1.4 supports max. 1080p 120Hz, so it can't run your monitor at 1440p 144Hz and DP1.2 should support 1440p 144Hz yet some cables might still fail to deliver that, especially if some VRR technology is involved.

I'd suggest getting a certified DP1.4 cable and trying that to make it work, I'm using this cable and it serves me well.

You're definitely mixing up some information.

The two different video output cables are the standard composite cables (1 yellow cable, 480i) and the component cables(3 cables green, blue, red, 480p) which are sold separately.

Both composite and component video are analog.

The product description of this certain adapter states that all it does is convert analog into digital.

>the Wii2HDMI converter dynamically switches or converts your analog content to digital HDMI format.

Using the Sewell adapter is basically the same using component cables to output 480p then converting it to HDMI using one of these adapters just with less cables.

AMD cards from that era (7850-3xx) have DisplayPort issues. The cable they sent is also probably crap. Try a certified cable like this one.

This one is good

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

Yes but you need to get a $100 adapter for 144Hz support

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A493CNY

Cheaper adapters do not work for 144Hz. This is why it's not recommended to buy a 144Hz monitor without DisplayPort.

$700? Get out of here, cheapskate

Or if Ethernet is your thing...

I'm just curious...

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1421703720&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+cable

Only $200? That's a bargain.

Companies will advertise that their HDMI cables produce a "Clearer Picture" and such when that is physically not possible, as the signal is digital and not easily degraded by noise. (Seriously you would probably have to run the thing through a microwave, and even you have more things to worry about, like it catching on fire)

They also charge, $50, $100, and in one hilarious case $10,000 for cables that will fare no better than a $2 cable off monoprice.

The $10k one if you're curious: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Are you insinuating that I may have overspent when I bought my $14000 HDMI cable?

Wow that's cheap! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58XG1WDDEYRX6FKWJW5Z&dpPl=1&dpID=41cGG7FbEwL

Ahem

Here's a $13,499.75 HDMI cable

I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know where you got that idea from, but this 10f extension works perfect for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/

USB 3.0:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If your monitor has display port, use that and use hdmi for vive. If it does not, you'll need either a hdmi to DP adapter or (preferably) a miniDP to DP cable like this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY

You'll have to make sure cable is a high speed one

I use this to connect from DisplayPort on my GPU to the mini DisplayPort on the link box. Works perfect for me.

Rankie Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable, Mini DP to DP, 4K Ready, Gold Plated, 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOQYQWY/

supports DisplayPort - (standard size) you can buy adapters cheap that will take just about any connector to that type connector.

if your laptop has MiniDP output, this would work perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready-Plated/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526911189&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+display+port+to+display+port+cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YOQYQWY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1466311017&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=rankie+displayport&dpPl=1&dpID=41pz4J-6XoL&ref=plSrch

In that case, a mini displayport to hdmi adapter will give you the best quality.

Not sure if you're in the US, but this one on Amazon.com for example would get the job done.

You should be good with a mini displayport to hdmi cable.

Here's one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494815653&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi

Free delivery tomorrow if you have Prime (unlikely) or know someone who does. Or stock up with $35 worth of stuff total. The leatherman should get you there.

You cannot feed a mini display port lead through it and bolt an adapter on at the end to hdmi ?


https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Converter-QGeeM-Compliant-Dual-Mode/dp/B07H29J86N


https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Black/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GZMK4SZB02Y5&keywords=amazon+basic+mini+display+port+to+hdmi&qid=1569841549&s=gateway&sprefix=basics+hdmi+to+mini%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3

This is the cable OP needs.

Also just recently purchased this. I noticed tiny little white dots appearing randomly at 100hz. Once I switched out the cable with a nicer one the issue was resolved. Here is the cable I’m using now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JnfeAbF1KV04R

Had the same problem with my monitor. The included dp cable is junk. The monitor was flickering and refresh rate was stuck at 85hz. I bought this cable http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 and problem solved.

Are they like randomly appearing green dots that blink around the screen? That's usually caused by insufficient bandwidth on your monitor cable.

Agree with throwywayradeon here. Get a CERTIFIED DP 1.3 cable such as this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Edit: It says DP 1.2 but it works fine with 1440p/144, I'm using it without issues at 1440p/165.

I got the 27 inch version of that monitor a few months ago. I used a cheap DP cable from Amazon, and the display would flicker to black above 65 Hz at 1440p. Apparently, not all DP cables are created equal, and you have to use a DP 1.2 certified one (see https://www.displayport.org/products-database/). I ended up getting Accell one such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Perhaps, this is your problem?

You cannot get 144hz through an hdmi cable on the xb271hu. Im not sure what issues you're having with your dp connection. Did you check to make sure the resolution is set to 1440p and the scaling is at 100%. Also unplug the hdmi cable. If not that the cable could be the issue. The dp cable that came with my xb271hu was awful and would randomly lose connection. I would recommend purchasing a new dp cable if you are using the one that came with the monitor. I attached to the link for the cable i bought and i have no issue running at 1440p 165hz with my xb271hu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For >60hz you need a graphics card and monitor with displayport connections. Also a nice cable that can handle the bandwidth. For that I recommend this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1&psc=1

Are you sure your DP is bad? You need to make sure you're using a VESA certified DP cable. Check out the reviews of a VESA certified cable here.

If you stay with HDMI you'll also want to confirm that your GPU hasn't decided that your monitor is an HDTV. Check out this article.

Haha, I bought that same cable in your link and returned it for the AMD recommended cable here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_t9uOwb4T8TKDD

I must admit that I didn't think replacing a cable would make a difference, but using that one in my link fixed half of my problems.

The glass is the only issue I have. Supposedly removing it is easy, but it's not a big problem to me. People talk about PWM flicker being a problem IIRC, but it looks completely fine to me. (everyone seems to be different about that though)
If you do decide on this, make sure you order a legit DP cable, because the one it came with was trash. I recommend Accell cables.

[Mini DP] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)

Standard.

And Here's my setup

What do you mean by "which dp 1.1"? If you mean the cable, I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I just set the input to DP 1.1, rather than DP 1.2 on the on screen display, and it got rid of my issues with no noticeable cons

In theory most cables will work, but if something is slightly out of tolerance high refresh/resolution can be problematic.

If you want a high-quality AV grade cable I recommend Accell: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Comprehensive is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Comprehensive-Cable-DISP-HD-3ST-Standard-DisplayPort/dp/B006X0OBAQ/

I bought this one, and it works perfectly fine.

This is the exact cable recommended by Acer and AMD for the XR341CK back in 2015/2016. Pretty sure it's the recommended one for the g-sync model too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actually I see displayport 1.4 cables are already hitting the market so that's probably not a good recommendation. The select manufacturer Accell doesn't have 1.4 cables out yet. It's my understanding that the first 4K 144hz monitors to hit the market will require 2 DP1.4 cables connected at once so assuming backwards compatibility is there buying a 1.2 cable may be a waste.

Make sure you get a product that is certified by DisplayPort.
You can search for certs here:

https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/

This is the one I have:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

Does 3440x1440 @ 100hz no problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

If you do replace your cable that's the best one to get, it's actually certified. But the bigger issue is games hiding 3D rendering behind a static image. No cable will stop that from the freesync flicker.

I bought This one!

Any DP to DVI-D active adapter will work for 1080p 60hz, however in order to use the 120hz function you will need a DP to dual-link DVI-D active adapter which are normally very expensive.

Here's one I found on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Yeah your only option would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

You need Dual Link DVI so you're looking at something like that: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

It's been about 8 years since I last had this issue (at the time was a 1440p 60fps screen but same issue fundamentally) so really not sure what about these days, back then the adapter ran at around £150 so I ended up not bothering selling the screen on and buying a new one with native DP.

Wish I could be more help but I would be very surprised if that isn't the issue your facing.

something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

The link I gave was a cursory example, but I did specify that it should be an active DP to DVI adapter. But fair point, the one in the link will not be the right one. I would expect that the OP would do his/her own research based on the information provided and not just buy the first one linked (which was linked purely as an example).

Perhaps something like this would have been a more appropriate example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+adapter+144hz&qid=1567203271&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But the one above is also but an example of the type of adapter that is needed, but not neccessarily the exact adapter needed.

Hope that helps and indeed clarifies.

Peace <3

I'm not an expert on display cables but from the looks of it, it seems display port to Dual Link DVI D requires a bit of active conversion for the higher resolutions.

"The DisplayPort LVDS signal protocol is not compatible with DVI or HDMI. However, Dual-mode DisplayPorts are designed to transmit a single-link DVI or HDMI 1.2/1.4 TMDS protocol across the interface through the use of an external passive adapter that selects the desired signal and converts it from 3.3 volts to 5 volts. Analog VGA and dual-link DVI require powered active adapters to convert the protocol and signal levels and do not rely on Dual-Mode. VGA adapters are powered by the DisplayPort connector, while dual-link DVI adapters may rely on an external power source (see Dual-mode).[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

Seems like the adapter cost almost half the price of the card...

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

But like Ponky mentioned. There will probably be versions with DVI.

No, well yes but you need an active adapter which costs ~$100. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY

Not worth it at that price.

Sell the monitor, it's obsolete. A DP->DVI adapter that can do > 100hz cost more than $100, almost enough to get you a new 144hz monitor with DP.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4Hc48d/dell-s2419hgf-240-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-s2419hgf

Looks like this may be your only solution?

First, GPU's have outputs. Video devices are listed as 'From' and then 'to', output to input. With these adaptors, direction can matter so searching for the wrong thing can cause buying issues.

So in your case you need DVI-Dual Link inputs for the monitors. You have HDMI and DP outputs. So you need either

HDMI to DVI-Dual Link

or

DP to DVI-Dual Link

The Dual Link makes it harder because it is basically 2 video signals on one cable. It has 6 TMDS pairs instead of HDMI's 3. HDMI went for a higher clock speed, DVI used more lanes. This means HDMI and DVI are only passively compatible up to 1080p60. Then they split and do their own thing. Meaning cheap adaptors are not an option. Unfortunately, HDMI to DVI-Dual Link adaptors don't really exist.

(Don't be fooled by passive ones that say HDMI to DVI dual link, those are only talking about the pins the physical connector has, they will not actually convert the signal as you will need to for 1440p)

DP to DVI Dual Link does exist, however they are not cheap. Here is one from

StarTech:http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

You need an active DP/DVI adapter if you want more than 60Hz. You can tell the adapter is active if it has an additional USB cable for power.

Something like this.

You need an active DP to DVI adapter, a passive one won't do 144 and your monitor only has HDMI 1.4 so DP to HDMI isn't an option.

Be careful there are tons of shit adapters that claim they are dual link but are not. You'll need to spend $80 or so for a real one.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Yes, but you need an (active) DP to DVI dual link adapter. These around $100. Here's an example of one, but there are many others.

There are some much cheaper devices advertised as dual link, but those are fake. They're single link (HDMI) devices.

You could get a displayport to DVI-D adapter...

You will have to use the DVI port to the monitor and the displayport to the GPU. Either one of these should work.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/

​

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

I have no experience because I haven't justified the cost yet. I have 2 of the same model monitors you have 1 is hooked up through DVI-D the other hdmi so I would love getting them both up to 144hz just to avoid the windows bugs alone.

I did a quick spot check on amazon it looks like even with an active adapter such as this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ you are limited to 120hz

Ohh you must have the Galaxy MDT version of the 580 GTX. Not a common one. DVI-D cables can plug into DVI-I ports but not the other way around.

To my knowledge DP should work >60Hz at that resolution but that adaptor you linked is a DVI-I port. See the four small pins around the large pin? That's the dead giveaway.

You're not going to like this but this is the adaptor that comes up when I google search for the right port types. I have no idea what this would do to your response time.

not if 144hz matters to you. you need one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-DP2DVID2/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480357476&sr=8-4&keywords=startech+dvi-d+to+display+port

I've checked ones not from startech and they are all around that price range. Unfortunately.

Needs to be an active adapter, something like this

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=dp+dvi+active&qid=1571404881&sr=8-11

The only way to get 144hz with that monitor given your outputs is to use an ACTIVE displayport to DVI dual-link adapter., unfortunately.

According to your manual HDMI is only 60Hz.

https://puu.sh/xmCdB/141c27b033.png

So afaik the only solution is https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504035192&sr=1-14&keywords=dual+link+dvi

Dual Link DVI (or DVI in general) is a thing of the past. You'll need a special active Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

There's no difference, but it really sucks having to lookout for a GPU that has a DVI port when looking to upgrade and very soon there probably wont be any high end GPU's with a DVI port. Adapters only support 60hz unless you get a very expensive active adapter which might support 120hz at best but it could also add input lag and overall just isn't worth it at all.

You will need an ACTIVE Display Port adapter to get your 144hz from the DVI to cross over. These from what I'm reading can be pricey (I'm finding anywhere from $40 to $140).

Here are a few examples that I found on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B004SUO1GM

​

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/145-8304580-0948802?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A493CNY&pd_rd_r=92198eb8-372b-45ce-af92-4f3d23bdd6c2&pd_rd_w=CkNMm&pd_rd_wg=pViOg&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=WSDA3D5CEW0R7J1GWASC&psc=1&refRID=WSDA3D5CEW0R7J1GWASC

Benq XL2410T and Benq XL2411Z.

Here's an example of an active adapter, sitting at 113 dollars: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Where I live, unless I import, I'd have to pay roughly 180 euro for one of these. That's in comparison to merely 35 euro for the GT 710.

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Diamond Audiophile cables.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1483570673&sr=8-14&keywords=audioquest+cables+diamond

These aren't cables for audio, but they also sell those at RIDICULOUS prices!

How about the $14,000 one?http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1/184-7653550-8381829?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MKENQJGVY0Z178WBB9M

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Pfft. Don't buy that cheap garbage. Get one of these

It's not the headphones, it's the HDMI cable he uses

only 1.5k ? oh cmon...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491227712&sr=1-14&keywords=hdmi+cable

You need one of these.

How about a $13,500 HDMI cable?

Try to beat this!

That's a cable for peasants. This is the one I recommend.

My HDMI cable supports Full Mega Super HD™.

I see yours and raise 12000.

I'd start with a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/

It gets worse.

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

Why settle for Platinum, when you can get Diamond HDMI Cables?

Hold my beer...

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.

These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&qid=1460783173&ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

Your GTX 1070 should be able to handle extensions, but maybe not a 12' extension. If you can do without 2', I'd try a 10' cable. I've got a GTX 1080 with a 10' Cable Matters HDMI 2.0 cable rigged up to an IKEA Regolit floor lamp base. From there, I connect my HMDs, whether it's an Oculusu Rift, Lenovo Explorer, or Samsung Odyssey. Haven't had any issues.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

I have an eVGA 980 and these 2 HDMI+USB extensions worked fine for me with the headset:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  From what I've seen in the past is that mobos and graphics cards can play a role in compatibility. I think newer cards/mobos will probably have less of a problem. I'm guessing many older hardware did not always adhere to some of the strict standards of USB/HDMI and it usually didn't matter much before with most hardware. But with the bandwidth that the rift+cameras use those standards are really important now and I think hardware vendors are now thoroughly testing and validating these in newer products. That's just my guess anyways.
  
  Edit: for reference my mobo is an Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

How long is the extension?

I had to go through a couple of cables before I found one that worked without issue - I've read other accounts that certain video cards worked well with some cables and not others. Not sure why it would suddenly stop working, short of the cable going bad or something like the power supplied to your video card changed?


These are the cables that worked for me

Note I only use one cable (10ft) not both, they just happen to come in a two pack.

For anyone interested:

Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's quite odd - I've never heard of such a MiniDP->DP adapter limited to 1080p. I suspect that is a packaging error where they re-used the same language from the brand's miniDP->HDMI adapter.

The simplest approach is to just get a miniDP->DP cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483665382&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+dp+dp+cable

Then there is no signal insertion loss from any adapters and less crap to go wrong. Now what will you do with the useless DP->DP cable that came with the monitor? ;)

I did know that but forgot, so thanks. Something like this?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-MiniDP-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511721995&sr=8-1&keywords=miniDP+to+DP+cable

Nevermind, missed the SB[2]. Depending on the monitor, 3.0 to HDMI Video Graphics Adapter with Audio for Multiple Monitors up to 2560x1440 for around $20.


Depending on the monitor, the most you might need is an mDP to HDMI (preferably active) adapter for about $18 or maybe a Mini DP to DP Cable for $9 if your monitor supports it. If you start to think multi-monitor (screen real estate) I'm a fan of the Microsoft Dock, which gives you two mDP and other nice features like 4 full-powered USB 3.0 ports.

Is the displayport cable included?

Edit: Seems like it isn't, I haven't found it and it's not on the contents paper. Which cable would work for this? Would this work, or is it the wrong direction?

Welcome! I have a few suggestions that might help you out

• For you connectivity issues- you can get a cheap $10 displayport to mini displayport cable so your display can stay on HDMI. It seems you already know that, but hopefully you won't need your workaround very long
  
  
• For the sickness, have you set the IPD (Inter pupillary distance) on your HMD? There's a small knob on the right. You can measure this yourself with a ruler and a mirror, or have your optician do it. I noticed when I didn't have mine right that I'd get a headache and nausea after exiting VR.

Check the ports on your GPU and look what gets shipped with the monitor.
My GPU only has a miniDP (its basically the same, just different formfactor) but my monitor only came with a standard-sized DP cable so I also had to order a "DP to miniDP"-cable aswell.

Make sure this doesnt happen to you.

PS: In terms of brand I wouldn't worry too much. Just go to amazon or something and take one around 10 bucks.... like this one for example

this is the cable i have used with the Vive without issue

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479937740&sr=8-1&keywords=dp+to+mini+dp+cable

Well, you did just buy a new expensive monitor so there's no reason not to spend a couple extra bucks on a good cable. TBH I'd get a cable with significantly more reviews like the one I linked below.

If you do end up getting a cable that doesn't work (assuming you checked the spec if it's listed) Amazon's return policy would probably cover it.

I actually got that same monitor a couple days ago and my gpu only has 2x mini DP (and hdmi/dvi) and this cable works fine for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY. However my HD 7770 doesn't support freesync. (I'm getting a new 480 soon!)

This cable on Amazon totally fixed it for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(Thanks to the suggestion in this forum: http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/dell-u2715h-and-sierra-cannot-get-2560x1440-via-dhmi.1984770/)

Just that there's no point buying anything expensive. "AmazonBasics" is great because they don't overcharge.

mDP to HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511801974&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi+cable

mDP to DVI: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-ThunderboltTM-Compatible/dp/B00DJCB83O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511802068&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dvi+cable

The T470 has one. But these are cheaper...

There's a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable in the wild that may work for you. The one Belkin makes is about $30 (though the quality is really nice) but there are cheaper options available.

Nothing really. A cable like this or an adapter like this should both work just fine.

Forgot to mention that, any passive Mini Displayport to HDMI cable or adapter will work as the port is Dual Mode.

I carry around one of these with my X230.

The surface has a mini-displayport which you can turn into HDMI with an adapter or cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/

Something like this should work.

You can buy an adapters. What ports does your GPU have ? Does it have DVI? VGA/DVI adapter is pretty easy to find.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Some BIOS will let you run both.

Not necessarily old. VGA is the older way to connect monitors, so I would say it's still up to date. Looks like the video card doesn't take VGA (Blue). You'll need a VGA to DVI adapter to connect it that way.

I believe you can use a DVI to VGA adapter for one monitor and DisplayPort to VGA for the other.

Since that graphics card has DisplayPort out, something like this will work.

However, you can also get something like this.

Something like this would be less of a hassle.

Ice said in this thread that he uses a USB to VGA adapter. His other screen is a TV which I can assume is what is using the HDMI on the 970. This leads me to believe that he plays games on the monitor that goes through the USB to VGA adapter, which is why he is having so many performance issues.


Solution 1 (cheapest): Buy a DVI cable and this adapter.

Solution 2 (expensive): Buy a new monitor. Decently priced monitor recommendation

Cool. So you have a lot of options.

Displayport to HDMI ( my recommendation )

Displayport to VGA

DVI to VGA

You can probably find these at Best Buy too, not these exact ones, but ones that will work.

>it has DVI and HDMI ports on it aswell

Then you can use DVI to VGA adapter for the second display.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

DVI and VGA only, which is also a bit of a drawback. I've used monitors without HDMI ports for so long I usually forget to mention that. It comes only with a VGA cable, so you'll probably have to get your own cable or adapter. I use this little doohickey for one monitor and something like this for the other.

There is DVI/HDMI port. You can get a VGA adapter for it. Btw, the iGPU or onboard graphic is faster/stronger than the Geforce 210 card.

Have you tried re-seating the ram in the other slot? If there are errors the board should have beeped or something.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/

You are supposed to plug you monitor into your video card, not your motherboard. The plug on the motherboard is there only for if you don't have a videocard. You shouldn't use it at all.

You need to have one monitor plugged in to one port so cancel that amazon order.

VGA is obsolete so you shouldn't be using that either. The 270x doesn't even have a VGA port on it. You will need 2 DVI cables and if your monitors are really old and only have VGA ports, you will need 2 DVI-->VGA adapters.

dvi to dsub adapter.

edit: http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418265135&sr=8-2&keywords=dvi+to+vga

Would this work as well or nah?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

$3 help you out.
If you want to use your GPU, you always need to plug the cable into the GPU. If you don't, plug it into the MoBo.

I agree. Looks like OP can use the cable in that link to connect the second monitor to the DVI port (the white one next to where the main monitor it attached). With that cord, it will be blue (from monitor) to white (in computer).

Alternatively, if you have an adapter like this lying around (they usually come with a new video card), you can use that with a (blue) VGA cord. Just plug this puppy into the back of the computer next to where your main monitor is attached. Then a (blue) VGA cable from your second monitor will plug into that adapter.

Any DVI to VGA adaptor will work.

Such as this

Hey

You're looking for one of these two adapters.

DVI to VGA

DVI-D (Dual Link) to VGA

depending on which DVI port you have on your computer.

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

http://www.amazon.ca/Importer520-Male-DVI-D-Female-Adapter/dp/B007EA48MA

Those are them but you can find them in other places :)

I found a Cord and an adapter, you can get either I'm not sure if it matters.

The cord

The Adapter

The adapter will work with the cord you are already using in your two photos if you don't want to have another cord lying around your house.

I highly doubt you used THAT exact adapter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#/media/File:DVI_pinout.svg
You may have used one like it, but a DVI-I to VGA adapter connects the four pins around the plus section to the corresponding analog wires. The adapter you linked doesn't HAVE those four pins, so it can't adapt anything.
There are IDENTICAL adapters that DO work with DVI-I (http://amzn.com/B000067SOH) notice how that one has the four pins that are missing from the one you linked. I would bet decent money that your adapter has those four pins too.

I had the same issue, give me a sec and I'll like the one that worked. It needs to be a truly active one, and that would require a USB connection to power it. If it doesnt specifically state it can handle 120hz and greater, then it will not support 120hz and greater.

[This is the one I have] (https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41YEgS06HRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=4AQMZ0EENKCB7DDYZJ20), I should have done more research when buying my monitor as it doesn't even have HDMI 1.4 or newer to support 120hz, so the price of this definitely hurt, but it works.

I really want to be wrong because an 80 buck adapter would suck to require, but I swear when I was researching this I read that you have to make absolute sure your adapter is an active one or it won't enable 144 hz.

Something like this:

You can tell it's an active one because it plugs into a usb for a power input to enable the 144 hz conversion.

You need a DisplayPort to dual link DVI-D adapter, single link ones won't work. Cheapest reliable one is this https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469966520&sr=8-12&keywords=displayport+dual+link+dvi, cheaper ones work by just running single link faster, which won't work with the chip used on generic korean monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

I've read issues with adapters on various forums, so I would just wait for the AIB cards to come with the DVI port though.

Buyers should note that this monitor can only do 1080p144hz over Dual Link Dvi, and it only has 1 DVI + 1 VGA input.

Dvi is being phased out in favor of Displayport, so your future mileage out of the monitor may vary unless you buy adapters

Active powered Displayport to Dual Link Dvi adapters are expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466762921&sr=8-5&keywords=displayport+to+dual+link+dvi

I no expert but i found this on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B002ISVI3U?th=1 its says that it works at 1920x1080 @ 120Hz for 3D LCD , but i don't know if it will work with out a 3D monitor or not.

There are powered display port to dual link DVI adapters but they're crazy expensive and don't always work, like this one. HDMI can't support anything over 60hz unless you have a 1.4 / 2.0 compatible monitor / gpu in which case it supports 1080p 120hz. Looks like you may have to get a new gpu unless you want to get the adapter.

Don't worry, I bought one, it works just fine. :)

https://www.amazon.fr/StarTech-com-C%C3%A2ble-adaptateur-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B002XVYZ82?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_386181_136557051_TE_item

I use this without issue
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

I don't get it. Why can't you just leave your monitor hooked up like it is and connect your GPU to your Vive breakout box with a DisplayPort to Mini DisplayPort cable? I've been using this cable since I got my system two months ago and it's been working fine.

Assuming the GPU supports DP v1.2 yes.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

The above cable would work flawlessly for you (again assuming your GPU is v1.2 and not v1.1a)

v1.2 supports "...a single display, this enables up to 3840 x 2400 resolution at 60Hz" per the VESA standard.

No HDMI adapter will make this work. No matter what the vendor says, HDMI can't output 4k @ 60hz. Active, passive and even gold plated with leprechauns just won't help.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6300 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor | $141.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $29.99 @ Newegg
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $57.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card | $99.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $14.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $87.95 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $562.88
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $512.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-05 23:04 EST-0500 |

Skylake i3 is better.

DDR4 RAM is faster.

This has a 240GB solid state, which should hold your OS and several of your favorite games. I use Win10 and a 120GB SSD, I can have about 4 games on my PC at once. I assume you'll still be using your mac for media, so this is a pretty good choice.

I like 750Ti's better than r7 265s, but the choice is yours at the same price. Good luck finding benchmarks to compare the two.

Stuff you're gonna need:

Mini displayport to displayport cable: $7.99 (hey, that's not so bad)

"Switcher" able to handle a digital displayport signal: $75.99

Honestly with your budget, why are you trying to spend $76 when you could unplug and replug 3 cables for free?

According to this spec sheet, you can run the monitor over HDMI at 30Hz. This is likely due to the fact that the port is only HDMI 1.4 and not HDMI 2.0 (which is necessary to run the monitor at 60Hz).

That said, your best bet is to get an mini-DP to DisplayPort adapter cable (like this one). Thunderbolt cables are more pricey and don't provide any benefit unless your monitor supports Thunderbolt (which may allow you to use the display as a dock) / Thunderbolt pass-through to another TB device.

I use a mini displayport to display port cable for my vive without issue. The cable i use is this one.

StarTech.com 6 ft Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Adapter Cable M/M - DisplayPort 4k with HBR2 support - 6 feet Mini DP to DP Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UshRzbRPP3ASP

Alright, so I chose this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B19T7QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
and this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I should get 144hz then. Thanks for the help man you just saved me like £50 :D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVYZ82?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I have a 2014 MBP, and used that cable, it worked perfectly at 60 hz:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002XVYZ82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417413013&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I got mine last week. It does come with a display port cable, although the GTX690 uses mini display port, you will need a mini display port cable to display port. I recommend this one http://amzn.com/B002XVYZ82 I have 2 gtx Titans hooked to mine. Look on tftcentral for the "optimized" monitor settings. Something like -Racing mode, 26 Brightness, then the RGB settings. Monitor is in freaking credible. Also, just to give you a heads up, the light for gsync will stay red (meaning enabled) even at the desktop. This is a confirmed bug nvidia is working on so don't spend the hours I did to troubleshoot. lol also, when gsync is turned on, it also turns vsync on in the nvidia control panel. This is normal. Vsync kicks on after 144 fps and gsync handles everything up to 144fps. All this is normal and fine. Disable vsync in game though. I'll post a video in a second for you of the clarity O.O

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

That's a really flawed argument because companies sell snake oil all the time

"4K Hdmi cables from Monster."

That's no good, son. Those aren't virus proof and very prone to leaking. To avoid a costly digital leak you should immediately upgrade. Here this cable should be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Got you covered.

Dude i'd rather buy a console than pay this much for an HDMI cable. Damn thing isn't even virus proof

also needs this HDMI cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

And it's definitely no AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 Schonmal was davon gehört?

Only two left... better go get yours quick!

I don't know if a $3300 powered one exists, but there is this one for under $7k, which is well below your insane $20k guess. I'd like to see exactly what the $3300 one they're referring to is, it could just be some insanely overpriced mechanical one that nobody buys, like those ridiculous HDMI cables they sell on Amazon.

Yeah, really. Why even bother buying cables that are that cheap? Everyone knows you have to spend at least $1,000.00 for an HDMI cable.

To think Monster cables are bad, check this cable out: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Oddly enough Best Buy also seems to carry these in my area, and they sell for $350. Yay for Monoprice! They get you on the shipping sometimes but the cables are dirt cheap and work great.

They need the proper cabling as well.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

You need a better hdmi cable. /s

But really, if you're happy with your set up don't worry about it.

Non-mobile version.

Better get your self one of these to go with it!
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

I don't know. Those audio quest cables seem to change people's lives.

Just look at these reviews!

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hY-zub09K6R66

you mean something like this from amazon?

Still positive feedback without proper use of said law firm would also be just as wrong as negative feedback without proper use. It may become one of those pages that have 4-5 star reviews and the stories are ridiculous.


/r/humorousreviews

Don't forget your diamond HDMI cable for Surface Silver Conductors and Dielectric-Bias Audio.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AudioQuest-Diamond-Cables-Standard-10-2-Gbit-Black/dp/B003CT2A2M

Isn't Audioquest that shitty company who tries to sell $1500 6ft HDMI cables?

yup, that's them

This one doesn’t even come with next day delivery!

Just go with the diamonds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_K2riybVQWNBMQ

But really, HDMI is digital, so it's broadcasting all 1s and 0s. There's no degradation in quality possible, it either works or it doesn't.

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

Maybe it comes with AudioQuest Diamond cables

Fuck that. It's on Amazon for $400 less! Ratuken is a ripoff!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M

What a great deal, almost $500 less than Amazon!

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

You absolutely must buy this.

Or just the 5$ cable in the nearest shop. Cables don't influence quality of digital signals. :)

Yeah they are way too overpriced,Try these.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/product-reviews/B003CT2A2M/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

The Amazon reviews are hilarious

Holy shit!

The second review is hilarious

Dandelion and burdock

How about these then

From the people who would like to sell me a £2299 5m hdmi cable. No, you're going to actually have to produce some evidence.

No no, he should have gotten this. http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

At least it wasn't this one

You mean I didn't had to buy AudioQuest Diamond HDMI to have a superior experience?

Look at top comment LOL

If the quality is not good enough after using this cable maybe you should upgrade to this one instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_dp_all_helpful/184-4259725-4864155?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new this is only $2.7k!!! BARGAIN.

I am using this but am looking for something better. I plan on going S-Video so possibly this but I would rather not have to press a button to switch between Composite and S-Video. For the Wii I use this and for the PS2 I use this. For the PS2 you have to trim the USB cable to be able to use it vertical. For the Xbox there is no solution so I use this

https://www.amazon.ca/Portta-Component-Converter-Adapter-%C2%A0Windows%C2%A010/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I would say the the PS3's component cables and that and you'd be off to the races. The component cables for the PS3 give you the plug you need on the back of the system, that box converts it to HDMI, HDMI is read by your HD60.

I think the mistake you are making is assuming you need to go directly from Female Component to Male HDMI which you won't really find as it is a more complex conversion than a cable can manage. A little box like this, or anything similar, will convert the signal for you and then you can just use a regular male to male HDMI to connect to your HD60.

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

What I'm doing, and this is the best quality PS2 video I've managed to conjure up on my HD projector, is using a PS2 component cable and a component-to-HDMI converter. There are a lot of different kinds of converters than the one I linked here. My receiver doesn't have HDMI, so I'm converting the receiver's component out to an HDMI hub.

Try something like this. It's cheaper, and should solve your problem

[choose this one! I have it and works awesome!](Portta YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 support LPCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kHKNzb32F62WN)

Price History

• StarTech.com DisplayPort Cable 6 ft / 2m 4K DisplayPort 1.2 Cable DP to DP Cable ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
• Club 3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft, Black ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
  _
  Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
  ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbfmcvw%2Fmonitor_dell_s2419hgf_24_1080p_144hz_tnpanel%2Felfv8hw%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>Yeah, I bought this cable:
>
>https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>and haven't had any problems since (2 weeks). Been on 240 Hz the entire time.
>
>
>
>Honestly a bit disappointing that the monitor is shipped with a cable that isn't able to support the product's flagship feature, but whatever. This cable fixed my problem straight away.

If using DisplayPort (assuming you are) then make sure you've got a good cable like this one or one that says "VESA Certified." While I'm not using an AMD GPU, my GTX 1070 using a FreeSync2 panel (BenQ EX3203R) was black screening mostly on scene transitions for seconds at a time (so a potential ramp up/down of the GPU clock). The cable solved the black screening issue completely. Worth a shot as they're not too expensive. (EDIT: This was all with any FreeSync enabled on the monitor in the OSD settings)

As and aside, I did also use CRU to fix another issue (getting G-Sync Compatibility to enable/work with the monitor), but that had nothing do with my black screening.

I use this one : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this sound bar, but the X900F tv, and both Dolby Vision and Atmos work with my AppleTV 4K so your setup should work. I’m using the AmazonBasics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable.

Other than trying different cables, ensure that the cable plugged into the tv is going into a port that supports all features. On the X900F this is HDMI 3, it might be similar on the 950.

Edit: I should mention that I’m also using ARC and pass through on the sound bar (i.e. the same configuration that I believe you’re using).

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

How are you connecting it? My T440s with base graphics runs my ultrawide like a champ with a MDP -> HDMI adapter. I used one of the HDMI adapters and an HDMI cable that specifically advertise compatibility with ultrawide resolutions, but I suspect any newish HDMI cable and adapter would work.

​

FWIW this is the adapter I got and this is the hdmi cable

Both of these work fine with my Samsung Odyssey:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using this for HDMI connection:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR9PR5X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do go down that route you might have to try several different cables to get them to work it seems to be specific to people's Motherboard and GPU. For me, 980ti, this USB 3.0, HDMI and HDMI Repeater worked. Regardless of what you choose definitely pick up a HDMI Repeater or a HDMI to DVI dongle, it seems to be the key factor to get extensions to work for a bunch of peeps.

I have this same tv and I was having the same problem with a 12 ft cord (best I could get was 4K at 30hz)

Got a 10ft cord from Amazon and that fixed the issue this cord

Looks like you won't be going quite as far, but I had a lot of trouble trying to get 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 going about 20-ish feet (a hair over 6 meters) when I upgraded my PC's screen from one that only did 4K@30Hz.

Spoiler: the cheaper option I hesitated on worked the best.

I tried Monoprice active/directional and passive/non-directional cables and would have tried something from Blue Jeans Cable had they carried a long enough HDMI cable that they rated capable of handling the task. The original, several years old cable I had produced nothing but static. The Monoprice cables created green "sparkles" over the image. I almost moved my PC into my office, too, but at the last minute I tried an Amazon Basics cable and it has worked perfectly, even allowing me to turn on HDR10 with no trouble.

Here's the exact cable I bought (copy/pasted from my purchase history):
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jkgzb1FZXZRE

Yup. $12.99 and 25 feet long...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/

I have this cable and it's nice. I know there isn't much to say about an HDMI cable, but this one is pretty tough feeling.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK

i use these on my rift to have my desktop in the office and rift in my garage. as for DP, no clue. i use

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS for the hdmi, i imagine something similar would work for rift s

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506137089&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi%2Bhigh%2Bspeed%2Bcable%2B4k&th=1

Would you be able to recommend a booster. Also I tried with a 4ft cable but after about a month it stopped working any thoughts on why?

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9AjjybTH0JYBQ

My wife let me take over the spare bedroom for my Vive playspace. The fold up bed cost about £300 but is totally worth it :)

The ceiling light will be replaced will a less obtrusive one, I'm just not that good a DIYer to do it myself.

If anyone is looking for extension cables that work, I used these HDMI and USB cables to get from my study across the landing (power point is within the room so didn't need a cable for that):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NORHCE8

Amazon.

Super thick and heavy duty cord as well. It is out of stock right now though

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Display Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_prKnDbQ726E0T

The 6 foot is out of stock but there's 10 feet and a few others if you are ok with the length. The 1080 should have at least 2 Display Port outputs. Use the Display Port to HDMI adapter for your monitor. Keep the direct HDMI connection for the Rift.

Check if you have a port to plug the HDMI cable from the odyssey in to. If you only have 1 HDMI port that's occupied by your monitor, buy this and use it to connect your monitor.

These work fine. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sxin_2?crid=2ODLJ98DXNQUD&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&pd_rd_i=B015OW3M1W&pd_rd_r=1114dfec-e6db-4c42-8a81-23a0fcb0e7e7&pd_rd_w=dLBfx&pd_rd_wg=9rXYU&pf_rd_p=2f202bc2-a141-4742-bd82-9252d5485b34&pf_rd_r=4RE88PM8BBHF74W81F6Y&qid=1557344410&s=electronics&sprefix=dis%2Celectronics%2C134

I see what your saying! Yea, they do make HDMI to Display Port cables. Here's an Amazon Basics cable. They are usually pretty reliable and on the cheaper side. I would get a cable over an adapter just because that is one less "extra" thing that could have issues down the road.

You can get DP to HDMI cables. One like this is all you would need to get that second monitor up and running.

> do need a wireless network adapter.

Choosing a wireless adapter with Linux that functions well entirely relies on driver support for the wireless chipset more than the brand or model on the box.

Atheros chipset based wireless adapters are more often than not the best option available. Locating one can be challenging but they are available. the most modern atheros wireless driver for Linux is the ath10k Linux driver. Researching this module should reveal many options.

The wireless adapters available may not all be new but there are options for wireless cards that use that driver specifically

>Do I need amd hardware?

No

>Would intel be the way to go?

That has been mine and many others experience.

As mentioned previously Ryzen cpu's having severe hardware faults that can only be fixed by replacing the cpu.

This more recent issue with Ryzen based motherboards not yet being fully supported also solidifies Intel as the best available choice between brands.

Someone I helped this past weekend couldn't get thermal management drivers for his Ryzen motherboard to function properly. While some of the challenges are entirely as a result of experience anyone with similar amounts of experience could expeirence similar results from new amd based pc hardware.


>Forgive me for my lack of understanding, but why two harddrives? What does the sata SSD drive do?

SSD hard disks use NAND flash memory instead of spinning mechanical platters to store data and ssd's as a result are quite a bit faster with data throughout and responsiveness. Latency response times are significantly lower for SSD's to respond to data read and write requests however the total available storage space is also significantly lower as a result.

With the reduced storage space having a second mechanical disk with good performance and storage space is still beneficial.

Typically if your careful about where you install software having a 512 GB ssd you should never fill it to capacity running an OS install.

>Does the motherboard support an extra harddrive?

Yes absolutely. That motherboard has support for several hard disks and dual M.2 SSD drive expansion slots. M.2 SSD disks are the newest SSD form factor and the data transfer speeds they can offer are astounding however the cost per gigabyte is also significantly more.

>I'd like to hook up some sort of webcam and microphone. Do you have any thoughts on the best way of acquiring such? I've only ever used inbuilt systems in laptops.

I have an older model Microsoft Lifecam Cinema webcam that does have a microphone and also has working native open source Linux drivers. Newer webcams may be nicer and easier to locate such as a Logitech C930 but i'm unaware if native Linux driver support is available.

>It'd be really cool to have two monitors for my computer. Woud that motherboard support such?

That Asus motherboard can run up to three monitors using different display connectors with just the onboard video provided by the Intel CPU.

The EVGA videocard supports running four displays with proper connectors. I have three monitors on my pc with an nvidia evga 1070 graphics card using displayport to HDMI adapters easily located from amazon

The monitors I use are Acer H236HL models that offer very nice slim bezels and IPS LCD panels and support HDMI connections. These monitors are an older model acer however for the cost they are a fantastic economical option of you only require 1080p resolution. Here's a couple Linus Tech Tips reviews on these monitors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXX0cCWWDsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGn3I9BIAo

For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well

HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using Amazon Basics USB and HDMI extension cables and they work fine for me

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 6ft or 3ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zm59Q7XKhhohl

You probably need higher bandwidth HDMI cables if you're only getting 60 hz at 1080 p. I use these cables for my setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

Don't buy the receiver from Amazon. You need something with a phono input and you should get something with decent room correction which pretty much means you're buying a refurbished Denon.

• Refurbished AVR-X1500H from Accessories4Less ($300)
  
• Roll of Monoprice 14AWG Speaker Wire $25
  
• Sanus speaker stands in black or cherry $80
  
  Then whatever amount of HDMI cables you need should cost you $12 for a two pack. I recommend Monoprice high speed certified.

Club3d CAC-1080 adapter+Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable

The reboots happened to me on the stock firmware 1.1.14.1 I went ahead and updated yesterday to 1.1.17.1 and haven't had one yet. I did get a black screen on the PS4 pro though. There's a video on Youtube where setting the PS4 TV settings to YUV420 fixed the black screen on his Vizio P. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hq9fzRtGCkc

I also read using a certified high speed cable from Monoprice fixed the black screen for some people. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

My BenQ 144Hz monitor came with a DP 1.2 cable, yours might have too. Otherwise just buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8S6X2I/

or this if you want the latches:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079736Z53/

Nvenc Streaming PC

• High Settings 1080p
  
• Apex Legends: 134fps
  
• Fortnite: 127fps
  
• Overwatch: 178fps
  
• Battlefield V: 130fps
  
• CSGO: 268fps
  
• Assassin's Creed Odyssey (proxy for the most demanding games): 80fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Streaming fps:
  
• Nvenc (gpu) encoding will reduce FPS by about 16% in Fortnite, and up to about ~25% in some other games.
  
• This is much better than x264 (cpu) encoding which loses a significantly higher percentage of fps as you can see from the link above.
  
• All Nvidia cards from the Pascal and Turing series (10XX and 20XX) have dedicated Nvenc encoding modules. All cards from the same generation have the same encoding power.
  
• Windows 10:
  
• Use Microsoft's Windows 10 creation tool to get free unactivated Windows 10.
  
• The only downside is a watermark in the bottom corner of your screen (and it won't show up on stream).
  
• You can always activate windows later if you choose.
  
• Micro Center Parts
  
• CPU + motherboard
  
• SSD
  
• HDD
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $204.98
  Motherboard | Gigabyte - B450 AORUS M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $0.00
  Memory | *GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $59.99
  Storage | Western Digital - Mainstream 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $39.99
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC BLACK GAMING Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | *Corsair - TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $53.98 @ Newegg
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F14 PWM 77.3 CFM 140 mm Fan | $8.99 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $847.90
  | Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
  | Total | $807.90
  | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-15 22:31 EDT-0400 |
  
  Explanation of Part Choices
  
  
• CPU: Best value cpu in the mid range. Comes with a good stock cooler that is strong enough for a mild overclock. Overclocking allows your cpu to run faster than its factory clock speed, enabling you to get a bit of extra performance. This will increase temperatures and voltage requirements, so heavy overclocking requires an aftermarket cpu cooler and a motherboard with good voltage regulator modules (VRMs).
  
• Motherboard: One of the best entry-level motherboards. Has 2 fan headers and VRMs that are strong enough for a respectable overclock on the 2600, especially with the airflow this case will have. See the AMD VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the price/performance sweet spot for Ryzen cpus. 16GB standard.
  
• Storage: Standard Choices. SSD has a dram cache which is important for the lifespan and speed of the OS drive. It is an nvme drive which is faster than standard SATA SSDs, and it is currently cheaper than SATA SSDs. 5 year warranty.
  
• Video Card: Strongest that fits the budget. I chose the cheapest standard sized card.
  
• Case: Most popular microATX case. Has a side window, magnetic dust filters, and comes with one exhaust fan. I've added one high-quality intake fan (pressure optimized to pull air through the filters) to ensure good airflow.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 550W is more than enough for this 269W system while still leaving plenty of room for overclocking. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• Monitor Suggestion:
  
• 144hz 24" Sceptre curved monitor: This is the cheapest 144hz 1ms monitor that has a large sample size of good reviews. You want 144hz because of all of the shooters you are playing.
  
• Display Port Cable: You need one of these or a dvi cable in order to get 144hz to the monitor. HDMI won't work.

Yeah, it just doesn't make sense.

Why would you sell a monitor thats capable of 155hz (with DP cable) w/o the DP cable?

I was annoyed when I first got it, but hopefully people buying it will see the comments and just order one instead of getting it and realizing that they have to order one anyway.

Here. I'll even save you some time.

Yes I get full resolution on macOS.

This is the cable I am using.

Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/Hbr3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2M/6.56ft, Black Vesa Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PSxtDbT7NVPYT

I've heard these are incredible: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595nDbFEG5KQN

Just get this, its Vesa-certified DP 1.4 and typically recommended.

I had to get a certified Display Port cable which fixed the flickering and stuttering for me on my 5700xt. I had no issues on a rx570 so I can only point to the Display Port Cable.

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR

It's okay! :) I understand your frustration. On a few different occasions a bad DP cable has caused extremely odd behavior with monitors I've had which was quickly fixed by a higher quality cable.

Most recently, i was doing 3440x1440 (the monitor listed here) and a cable I had would sometimes make the monitor go out of 120hz mode and be stuck in 60hz. Once I got this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it's been rock solid, no issues whatsoever.

For people having flickering issues lots of people are saying try a quality DisplayPort cable. Here is one I found on Amazon, Club3D DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4g9TCbTXS0BC2
Edit a word.

This cable: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR/

I don't have experiance sorry but I doubt you will get better result, you can try this cable which solve high fps problem but I don't think it will solve sound issue https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DisplayPort+8k&qid=1554065765&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Very true, but Amazon also sells AmazonBasics HDMI cables which are super cheap, pretty good quality and HDMI 2.0 spec:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=twister_B016I3XG0S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I know it’s sucks on Nintendo’s part, but luckily Amazon basics solve so many of these issues cheaply:

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 10 Feet, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4CW4Bb68B25H6

Hi guys, i have a samsung UE49KS7500UXXC, and when I turn uhd color mode in hdmi 1 where it connects the pro ps4, the screen is all black and back to normal again and again, this happens right after turning on the uhd color mode, or a few hours later (and never If I turn it off, turn it off is also the only way to stop the black screen cycle), my guess is that this happens because of the hdmi cable, so I'm going to buy a new one because I need a 3 meter cable.
So I'm in doubt on which one to buy, I need a cable that supports hdr, my first choice was AmazonBasics (and I really liked it) -https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=1624982031&ie=UTF8&qid=1481497598&sr=8-1&keywords=amazonbasics%2Bhdmi&th=1
But I read that I need a 2.0a or 2.0b and amazonbasics just says 2.0 and does not specify whether it is compatible with hdr or not.

What cable do you recommend for hdr?

Sy my english and if this is a newbie question

Proven working on this and this.

I have an LG 65" 4ktv, same situation as you, here are the 2 cables I'm using, I have my PC to the TV in 4k, and the headset connected.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PWQT68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

theyre both 10ft

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s03 these specifically

I think about 5 feet? I'm not sure, but I bought longer ones, 10 feet, off of Amazon. Now it's long enough that I can pull the system out right next to me when I play and the controller length isn't an issue anymore, plus I can hit reset on the system without having to get up and walk to the system.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S5NTDR/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've tested a couple of different HDMI cables and this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm stumped. Thanks again for your help, it's a real head scratcher.

Nope to be fair they are 10ft. These are the exact ones I ordered and they work fine:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edit: Though looking at the current prices of those items, the 25ft HDMI cable is less than £9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8T0YQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSS9LEI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I use these in the 10 ft length. I was in the exact situation as your husband, and ran the longer cables from my pc along the floor/trim of my den to the door to the living room and command stripped it to the trim so that the cables were some what wife approved. The hmd cables were long enough already that when I plug it into the box I would be able to have plenty of play space in the living room.

I can't remember off the top of my head the details but I found a post on reddit where someone made a chart for all of the approved cables to do this kind of thing, and I think at 15 ft or maybe 20 ft you needed to buy a higher quality cable to ensure no loss of picture.

Might be a bit short for your needs, but here is the ultra cheap option that works without issue for me (and can be done through Amazon, so easy returns if it doesn't work, cables state they do work so return is free).

I bought all these via Amazon UK, but can be bought from Amazon US

Amazon basics CL3 25feet HDMI

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484771738&sr=8-2&keywords=25foot+hdmi

10 Meter Active USB 2 extension cable (I just bought the cheapest one, I think any well reviewed one will do the job)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011RCUH1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought 8m of 1/2inch braied cable sleeve.

This runs from the PC to the breakout box and I then just plug the breakout box in in the room I play my Vive.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518539627&sr=8-8&keywords=basic+hdmi+cable

This wouldn't be an ideal use for a Steam Link. The purpose of a Steam Link is to be able to say, have your computer in your bedroom and play games on the TV in the living room without dragging the computer out to the living room or running a mass of unnecessary cables through the house.

Since it's in the same room, measure out how long of an HDMI cable you would need to run a cable along the floor up against the wall. As long as it's under 50 feet long, it shouldn't suffer from signal degradation. Make sure you take into consideration the distance from the floor to the HDMI ports on your computer and TV as well, and give at least a couple inches of slack.

An AmazonBasics HDMI Cable is plenty high-quality, and you can get many different lengths up to 50 feet. You can use cable clips to keep it neat and tidy.

I got you bro.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only caviate I have is with the usb extender. I couldn't use the front camera on the headset when it was routed through the usb to ethernet extender. This may be a limitation of the one I chose. Otherwise, everything works perfectly.

It will probably just be easier to buy a long HDMI Cable and leave your laptop on the computer desk.

HDMI is digital so pretty much any cable will do the same thing. The amazon basic cables are pretty cheap for a 25 feet cable.

Link

I'm using this cable.

I don't play FPSes (and hence, don't really use mouse/keyboard), but I will chime in to make sure you're aware of this:

In most cases, you can use your PS4 controller. I have been able to use it with my PC over Bluetooth in the past (native Windows 10, without downloading third-party drivers), but if you have problems doing so, just slap your USB controller charging cable between your DS4 and a USB port on your PC, and off you go.

I personally take it a step further and have a cheap 25-foot HDMI cable running from the back of my PC, around the room, into my TV in the same room, and have it set up as a third monitor. Then just play on the couch with a controller. This is also useful for watching things as well.

Refresh / latency obviously take a hit from this setup, but no more than standard consoles, and it's really only an issue with FPSes (which is what you're having difficulties with, but I just want to make sure you're aware of options you have for other PC games).

your video card should have multiple outputs, just use a regular 20+ft HDMI cable and connect to your TV, it'll basically use it as an extra monitor.

I do the same thing at home, use a dp --> hdmi adapter and a 25ft hdmi cord to the TV.

You don't need those crazy 4k gold plated hdmi cables.

this will work just fine for 12$: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2/158-3547399-2622035?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1MRG7ZTF5Y2MWFSFGSR

Thank you for taking the time to provide some constructive help regardless of whether the equipment is old or not.

I think I'm going to buy the below 2 items, what do you think?

Also my projector has DVI-I 29 pin (24 plus 5) but all of the adapters I'm seeing are 24 plus 1...:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Adapter-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8TC4E

This 7.5m cable will do it.

The next size down is 4.6m

Just buy these ones, I have 2, one for my Xbox and one for my PlayStation

https://i.imgur.com/BkBvWlM.jpg

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 7.5m / 25 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u7FQCbX7TZYV2

You can grab this one from Monoprice.

or

This one from Amazon.

I'm running the Amazon basics from my projector to my reciever with 3 fairly sharp bends along the way and it's never given me a problem.

It's exceedingly rare for me to write product reviews. If I'm happy with the item, then cool, no further action required. If I hate it though, I'd rather the spend the time initiating the return procedure. So I don't really understand the mindset of someone who frequently reviews stuff, excepting of course products with few reviews or those that are rare/expensive.

Like this Amazon Basics HDMI cable.
Why the fuck are there 7,000 individual, written reviews? Like seriously, it's a goddamn cable. What [of value] could you possibly add by being review #7,001?

Also you mentioned checking the reviewer's profile page. I didn't realize that shows every single review that person has left. People leave varying amounts of personal info in their reviews, so their 'profile' provides a bit more insight into their lives than that word implies.

Amazon basic HDMI

Generic USB

That last pic is my house that I 3D modeled.

The setup goes from my computer in my room, through the roof, into the kitchen area.

Check out the wiki. You might not need active extensions depending on the length that you need. I used an active USB extension and a long HDMI cable. These are the ones that I used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFFL2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did not need to power the USB extension. I'm in the US, so the products I linked might not be available in the UK. Here is the link to the wiki of cables that have worked for people:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

The MSI Radeon RX 570 ARMOR MK2 8G OC has 2x HDMI & 2x Display Port. Will this type of cable allow me to connect a 3rd HDMI-only monitor, without buying any type of special converter, etc.?

Like above, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

So the seller said only the display port works, and you tried to use HDMI and it didn't work, and now you're devastated?

You can get a cable for like $11 that should solve your problem...

You should be able to use both.


You use the graphics card Displayport out to connect to your monitor.


If your monitor does not have a Displayport input, you can get a Displayport to HDMI, or Displayport to DVI cable or adapter depending on what you need.


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W


https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Compatible-Computers/dp/B005H3I38Q


https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-DVI-Feet/dp/B004C9M7UG

I assume you have a display port on the card? You can get a native switch from dp to hdmi.

Dp 1.2 can convert to hdmi 1.4 with no active adaptors.

Here is an example of what I'm talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550094740&sr=8-3&keywords=full+display+to+HDMI

You can do this with a single $10 cable

Whilst you don't need to spend a ridiculous amount on a cable the cheap unbranded ones are often mass produced and all it takes is a little bit of a rough tug and it can mess them up. I've had no problems with the Amazon Basics DP -> HDMI cables and I abuse the hell out of it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-1-8/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487603211&sr=8-9&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi

(That's UK, find their equivalent on your localised Amazon)

Nice catch. Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_BrN0Bb6ZYB2AN

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540397446&sr=8-5&keywords=displayport%2Bto%2Bhdmi&th=1

Here's a DP to HDMI on Amazon. -LINK-

Oh so the monitors dont accept DisplayPort or dvi at all? Ive seen a dvi to vga converter before.. not sure the exact impact on quality that might have though. I havent used vga connector in a long time.

I think you can get DisplayPort to hdmi (if you have hdmi available?)

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uPYrzb7D82R9F

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542817607&sr=1-4&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi

I've been using two of those at home for about a year now. When I updated to my 1080ti on my new build I didn't want to add cost with new monitors right away (my older Samsung monitors are DVI/HDMI only but still work great as 2nd and 3rd monitors) and the 1080 only has one HDMI out which I was using for my Vive.

There are probably even cheaper options available, but they do work well. I've never had output or ripping issues with them and everything was recognized as it should be.

Easy plug and play.

$10 is not expensive. ;) https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

I bought a few of these, I think, personally, since I have DisplayPorts but primarily use TVs, instead of computer monitors: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Compatible-Computers/dp/B005H3I38Q

So after doing some research, I figured I may be able to get it working if I use these two adapters. I'd plug the DP from Rift to the coupler and the DP from HDMI cable to the coupler and HDMI to laptop. I may try this and update if it works.

These are the cables I had in mind:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OW3M1W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFPM2CU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

Chromecast plugs into an HDMI, but that shouldn't be an issue. I use this cable on my home rig and at my company all the time with no issues: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/

You'd obviously need the HDMI end to be female, but there are definitely adapters. Something like this would probably be fine: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-Gold-Plated-Compatible/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/

Base level Chromecast is $35, so you'd be under $45 for the whole set up. I doubt you'll find anything else that is significantly cheaper out there.

The cable I'm trying to use is from AmazonBasics, it's this one. I have an HDMI cord somewhere, but I need to hunt around for it...

You'll need 1 HDMI male to male cable and 1 HDMI male to Display Port male cable

I don't like cats anyway...check this out Ex, a bit old but it might work -
https://forums.oculus.com/vip/discussion/15644/nvidia-surround-with-rift-work-in-progress

Not sure if you remember I got AnkleBiter's Rift working with this also, but I used one of these cables -

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491923585&sr=8-4&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+cable

Is there any way to make it work with one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1R33E7COCFN16&keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+cable&qid=1555710849&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+to+disp%2Celectronics%2C192&sr=8-3

Cool thanks. So I should be able to use this to connect it to the other monitor?

I've been trying to set up dual monitor for a while now and I'm compltely stuck. I have a Gigabyte RX570, which has 1 HDMI, 1 DVI and 3 displayports. Up to now, I've only had 1 monitor using the HDMI out port.

I have 2 monitor, both LG, one 24 inch which I use for both work and fun, it has one VGA(work) and 1 HDMI in. The other monitor is also LG, 29 inch with 2 HDMI ports.

All 4 in ports on the monitors work with various other devices. Now the plan was to do HDMI out to the 24in and do a DP to HDMI to the 29in. Is that not possible?

I have tried all 3 DP ports and none will have a signal plugged in either monitor. I have tried one of these gizmos and one of these cables, tried both with all 3 DP ports, and nothing will have something show up.

Am I missing some fundamental step?

I just bought the cable, like this one

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jyQAbAQR9828

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XyTPAbHF844P1

Ok then...

• Run [THIS] (https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) from GPU to Monitor 1
  
• Run straight HDMI from your GPU to monitor 2
  
• Run the prior adapter in my last post with an HDMI cable to the TV
  
  This will occupy the DP, HDMI, and DVI-D ports of your GPU, enable full functionality of all connected devices, and cost you the least amount of effort, money, or stress.

Alright so I think this could work, thank you for the help!

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525153822&sr=1-4&keywords=display+port+to+hdmi+adapter

Just get that

Update:

Using AmazonBasic cables as suggested and an HDMI-DisplayPort Adapter, still stuck at 60Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACWG11W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OW3M1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So... any suggestions that don't involve me spending another $100?

I'd try the amazon basic HDMI cord. It's very thick, which is technically undesirable for other applications, but it's a very good thing for VR as it lets you move the data further
The amazon basic USB 3.0 extension is also cheap and works. But length is more of an issue with USB than HDMI, so keep that in mind when ordering. For instance, if you want to do a set up with longer than 10ft HDMI, I'd use a USB 2.0 extension or alternatively find an active solution so the USB 3.0 works.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE?th=1 (I used the 10 ft, and have no problems, YMMV)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I (same as above, remember the USB stuff is finicky and depends on the PSU on your computer. But I'd say under 10 ft --this is 9.8ft-- is fine)

This
CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/ref=sr_1_7?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1500055797&sr=1-7&keywords=amazonbasics+hdmi+10

what do you think about this one ?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013ICN940/ and https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01D5H91KE/

I have the Odyssey+ and just got extension cables for it recently. The AmazonBasics gear all worked fine for me:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
  
  I tried it without the powered hub at first and got long static bursts on the audio. Of course, the hub has to go between the headset cable and the extension cable. The power adapter cable is only 5 feet though.

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

Typically you're not supposed to use one but I use one and have zero issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014RWATK2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought both of these and it works flawlessly as far as I can tell. I run an EVGA GTX 1060 6GB.

Also, I own an Odyssey as well.

So I ordered these two cables:

HDMI
and
USB

Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.

Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.

The HDMI works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These two are the ones I got.

This 10' USB extension and this 10' HDMI extension have worked flawlessly for me with the same headset!

Darn. I picked this one up, coming in the mail tomorrow. People seem to have good luck with AmazonBasics stuff. If it doesn't work, I'll give your option a shot.

For the rift i use:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00WHZ8NDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems to work fine with 1080ti.
More comfort and less chance to damage the ports by mechanical stress.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

i bought these and they work fine:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

same products should be available on .com site

I just ordered Amazon Basics 10 foot HDMI Extender https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE and Cable Matters 10 foot USB 3 extension https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U, $15 for the set. The Cable Matters one was recommended on reddit and the amazon one had reviews saying it worked.

gtx1070 here. I bought the amazonbasics branded usb3 and hdmi 2.0 cables - these specific cables - they're working fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (10ft)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (9.8ft)

-mark

That's right.

-Right sensor plugged directly.

-Left sensor extended by this this cable.

-Rear sensor extended by this cable

I have the headset connected using the extender I mentioned already and this HDMI extender.

I've read somewhere that a 4K HDMI repeater can remedy my situation, so I ordered one that will get to me on Sunday.

What really perplexes me is the how the the left sensor goes from "OK" to "poor tracking" when I plug in the headset... and how the whole thing works sometimes and other times it's a no-go.

Beware the Amazon basics 10 feet HDMI cable, it works and it's dirt cheap, but it is twice the diameter of the Rift's cord.

I did a 10' no problem with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was getting pink and green flashes from 4k BD player using an amazon high speed cable on a 2016 KS8500. Switched to a mono price high speed premium cable and have had no more problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-Speed/dp/B01GCGKI3O

these are 18gbps and are suitable for 4k HDR... if this doesnt fix the problem you should contact Samsung since it may be a board or screen problem.

I know most people are saying any modern HDMI cable will work, but this is not entirely correct.


There was a test done that I’ll have to look up regarding HDMI cables ability to transmit full 4K and HDR content. Only a few of like 20 cables were able to consistently deliver the content correctly, even though all advertised they could.


I’ve had issues trying to get full 4K HDR content to work correctly on both my appletv and Xbox One x. After going through a dozen or so different “high speed” cable brands that all promised 18gbps and HDR compatibility, the only ones I found to consistently work were the Monoprice premium cables. Interestingly, this was also consistent with the previously mentioned results.


My other cables would work intermittently and drop out, leading to some major issues trying to figure out what was wrong. After hours of messing around and them buying a ton of cables, I came to this conclusion.


My suggestion, buy this cable either through amazon or monoprice.com and be done with it:
Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I had the same problem. Was using my Xbox X hdmi and had occasional static when I woke it up from sleep. I got these and it solved all my problems. Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h1cuDbE3W8K3S

They updated the firmware so now it's gonna be related to either bad HDMI cables or incompatibility with the source device (receiver, stream box, etc). Make sure you have a good HDMI 2.0 'certified' cable or if using an AppleTV 4k there is suppose to be a Belken cable that works.

Just upgraded to 4K from the previous ATV model and I tried to turn on HDR mode but Apple TV does it’s check and says it’s switching to SDR.

This is from Samsung website for the KU6290:

“Our HDR Premium technology displays HDR (High Dynamic Range) content from new generation Ultra HD Blu-ray, HDR streaming content, and HDR content available on Vidity compliant storage devices. Meets CTA HDR-compatible requirements.”

Can anyone help me debug this? Or has anyone ran into similar issues? I tried switching HDMI ports and I have a Monoprice HDMI cable that supports HDR.

TIA

Order a Monoprice certified premium high speed cable. It’s just over $6 for 6 ft. That’s long enough for most installations. There are better made cables out there but these are more than good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

They’re cheaper if you buy them from Monoprice but end up costing the same or more after tax and shipping especially if you have Amazon Prime. If you have Prime order from Amazon.

And to add, if you’re in the market for cables, I would recommend the Monoprice ones.


Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lLNoDbTCC4RE9

For example. They have some slim ones too.

I just upgraded all my HDMI cables to these yesterday and everything works great.

Then a Monoprice cable should be all you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-14AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-White/dp/B0193RRMQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2TS7EUFLVQHUM&keywords=mediabridge+14awg+2-conductor+speaker+wire&qid=1556846643&s=gateway&sprefix=mediabridge+14&sr=8-4

I have 2 slightly longer runs through walls/ceilings for surrounds and the price wasn't too much higher than 16g so I bought one longer spool of 14g instead of 14 gauge and 16 gauge 100 ft spools. Seems to be all you need for passive speakers with some snake oily buzzwords, oxygen free, 14awg copper, higher strand count, rated for in wall use, lab tested, and 200 feet all for $64.

For any normal size room 16g should be just fine.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2684&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtr_mBRDeARIsALfBZA7ozYLRCjYokVwlz6vUrpxuNM1b3ixqAgymdykdsddIqMRPzMrEREAaAgMAEALw_wcB

Subwoofer cable. Get whatever length you think you'll need.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

HDMI cable. Only thing to really part attention to would be certified premium rating. Can buy for 60 cents cheaper directly through monoprice but they're usually out of stock compared to Amazon.

The one I bought is working for now, but I will get monoprice ones in the future. They have 6ft ones on Amazon for $5.37 https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/

Sorry, I guess I missed the HDR support part. You are correct that the HDMI port nees to be 2.2. to allow HDR images to display. Without it, you'd get a blank screen. the 790 does support 4K with HDCP2.2 and HDR. Again, depending on how into AQ you are, soundbars do a decent job but I just don't think it's worth spending $200-300 dollars more. The Sony display is very good. I have the X800D and it looks amazing in my bedroom with both normal and HDR programs (it was last year's model but I saved $300 by buying it. The differences in the new displays weren't that important to me). As long as you connect your soundbar into an HDMI 2.2 port you should be good to go. Also, make sure your HDMI cables are certified high speed (full 18Gbps) and that the enhanced HDR settings are set to auto on you display. You probably know all this already but I read so many comments from people having problems getting HDR to work because they miss these simple points. These are what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499868918&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+HDMI+certified+high+speed+cables
Hope this helps.

The sound would go out and screen would black out for a second or 2 then come back on and it would be okay for a few minutes then repeat with the stock PS4 Pro cable. I switched to this cable from monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with the screen blacking out or sound issues. Another good cable I've heard people say works great is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI8A1NW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3L31F4KTJOMGN&coliid=I2N5CQDFP3Y2FI&psc=1

It sucks that Sony cheaped out on the cable but I'm just happy it's working correctly now.

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VnkODb9BTE1ER

These?

Cables? Unless the ones you have specifically say they support 18Gbps, they probably don't.

Sorry to spam you, but are these the same as the one you linked? amazon I prefer to order from amazon since I get free next day, but there’s a few low quality reviews up top and just wanted to double check. I know those could just be defective or just idiots using them but I want to make sure before I order them. I have until like 10pm tonight to order and I’lol still get them tomorrow. Gotta love that convenience

Yeah, as odd as it sounds, in 4K modes HDMI cables run at similar frequencies to bluetooth, and without good shielding, the cable can cause interference with the bluetooth remote. Get a cheap premium certified HDMI cable and that should solve your issues. They aren't expensive at all: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1U9XKXX1J950B&keywords=premium+certified+hdmi+cable&qid=1573158853&sprefix=premium+certified+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-3

I just had to return a few Amazon Basic cables (i have two mirrored outputs on my AVR) because they would not carry the Dolby Vision or HDR signal from my Apple Tv 4K to my TV. They were 10' cables. Replaced with a Monoprice brand (also sold at Amazon) and it worked great. Later found out the Dolby Vision requires the cables be clearly marked PREMIUM CERTIFIED. The Amazon Basic cables are not marked as such where the Monoprice ones are.


https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506533116&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+hdmi

EDIT: YMMV, I've also been told that cables without that marking will work with DV over shorter distances, but this was my experience.

I always buy this one.

I would buy it straight from monoprice website but their return policy is terrible and I’m pretty sure you have to pay shipping.

I just bought that same cable (6ft black version) from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

I am still having the same balck screen issue.

The only HDMI cables you'll need are Certified Premium ones, like the one show in OP's pic. But, you can get them for $10 from Monoprice on Amazon. Got two of them, never looked back.

Specifically bought high end Monoprice cables just for 4K playback (these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O) so that cables wouldn't be an issue. When I try to enable HDMI enhanced, it's telling me the TV doesn't support it, even though it should?

Sounds correct.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I have.

I had the same problem with the almost same TV (the 55' variant). Yeah, it's the HDMI cable and I bought this from Amazon and worked fine.

As they told you, you only need a cable that supports 18Gbps, I've had to be a little more careful because my TV is further and there's no many 5m cheap cables that will do the work.

I wouldn't expect the first 2 HDMI cables to work well since they are not made for the newer HDMI sources. The last cable should technically work since they claim it can pass up to 18 Gbps, but I personally wouldn't trust that claim. If you're up for trying yet another cable, look for one that is a Certified Premium HDMI cable like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GCGKI3O . I had similar issues and this cable solved it for me.

You can also try powering up the TV and changing to the Roku input, then rebooting the Roku. I found my Roku didn't like hotswapping HDMI cables without a reboot.

This is a good option to get DV at a good price. There is also a belkin cable food for DV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
For best DV results, stuck to 2m/6ft cables.

As suggested, I am getting a Monoprice cable as suggested by others:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Display port comes in different sizes.
This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/

Okay so this one on amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=displayport+cable+vesa&qid=1563391531&s=gateway&sr=8-16

It tells me it is VESA certified in the description, so I'm at least assured it works as intended and it doesn't cost anything extra.


IMO it's a bit of a confusing bunch to me as well.
I think either looking for VESA certified or HBR2+ (There's also HBR3) depending on what kind of resolution you need.

Amazon is your friend

Not trying to answer your question, but the cable is pretty affordable.
AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CnE3BbE0C0EN0

2 days or 2 hours?

I don't think I've walked into an electronics store at all since Prime Now started.

I have an ROG Swift PG279Q monitor and it looks like the display port cable died on me this morning as the HDMI port works and i get an image from my GPU

My question is there a cetain display port cable i need to get as a replacement? I'm aware of the different "versions" of Display Port and HDMI so does it matter whether i buy the Amazon Basics Display cable or this other brand one

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=display+port&qid=1556036622&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port&qid=1556036461&s=gateway&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=AmazonBasics+DisplayPort+to+DisplayPort+HD+Display+Cable+-+6+Feet&qid=1570362614&s=electronics&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

I've had problems with cable matters and my FreeSync monitor in the past even though they should be compatible. No problems at all with Amazon Basics and I like the fact that they don't have the annoying clip

DVI is actually the old technology here, DP/HDMI supersede it.

Any version of DP does 144hz at 1080p. I went with DisplayPort for this reason. For 1440p you'll need a 1.2+ version like this one on Amazon. See the grid here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

HDMI can actually do 144hz on most resolutions with version 2.0/2.1: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI

DO NOT BUY A CABLE AT BEST BUY!

I'd recommend this one

Buy a DisplayPort cable. Their throughput is the best you're gonna find, they clip in (instead of screwing, which is awesome), and they're not proprietary, so they're super cheap. Displayport cables from 5-20 feet range from around 6 to 20 bucks, which is awesome. Here's one: $10 6ft

The alternative COULD be to get a dual-link dvi cable, but I wouldn't for two reasons. 1) The majority of dual link dvi cables I've purchased are either only half-active or incorrectly marketed single-link ones (like the one you currently own), and 2) dual link dvi cables are expensive.

That monitor has displayport, and basically all GPUs in the past 11 years has had some form of it.

If you find that the dvi cable you currently use does work with the monitor and gpu you just purchased, then it was a faulty connection on your previous GPU's side, so you don't have an issue anyway. But in any other circumstance, go for DP.

Honestly Id just buy another DP cable. You will need a DVI-D set up (cable as well as DVI-D on both your gup and monitor) for 144Hz but even then your caped at 1080p. Also cables are nothing more then dumb copper wires, it dosnt matter what color the DVI cable is.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

Actually no that’s just a regular...old school monitor cable, I forget the exact name. But displayport is a whole different thing that, if I’m not mistaken, most monitors and pc’s have inputs for https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

When reading DisplayPort cable reviews, I always recommend everyone take a read through the 1-star contributions.

There's a concurrent theme in most of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_fGHpDbVVG50NK

This is my displayport cable I’m using. It does work for 144hz on this monitor when i’m using integrated graphics but not with the GPU. I have also tried 2 other DP cables as well.

Yes I did use DDU to do a completely clean install. I really don’t get what’s up

Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/Hbr3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2M/6.56ft, Black Vesa Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.DnzDb537Q0HD