(Part 2) Best wall painting supplies according to redditors

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We found 3,520 Reddit comments discussing the best wall painting supplies. We ranked the 1,670 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

House paint rollers
Household bristle paint brushes
Power paint & HVLP sprayers
Household paint & primers
Wall surface repair products
Paint prep materials
Wallpapers
Wallpaper borders
3D wall panels
Houshehold finishes, sealers & stains
Household painting supplies & tools
Wallpaper & wallpapering supplies

Top Reddit comments about Paint, Wall Treatments & Supplies:

u/nghbrh00d · 4219 pointsr/LifeProTips

As a someone who detail cars.. This WILL scratch the shit out of your clear coat, especially if there is a lot of snow on the tarp as you drag it off. I wouldn't suggest this to anyone who cares about their cars appearance, if you drive a beater tho.. Have at it.


Edit: A lot of people are making suggestions about if they can use this or that instead to avoid scratches, so I'll just give my best advice. Winter is tough on cars in many regards, so your car and it's paint is going to take a bit of a beating no matter what. The most important thing you can do to care for your car in snowy climates (besides regular maintenance) is to wash it frequently, and when you go through a car wash pay the extra buck or two to get the under carriage. Salt and rust is far more damaging to a car then some scratches so that's first (Note: Go to reputable car wash to minimize scratches) . Honestly you're going to get scratches no matter what you do, so all you can do is try your best to minimize them. Using a tarp is a bad idea because as you remove it will drag the dirt and grim that's on your car along the paint. If there is snow on the tarp it will add weight digging into the paint even further. General purpose tarps are also harder then your paint and by itself could causing nasty swirls and scratches. If you'd like to use a cover use one that is designed for cars, they're typically made of a softer materiel that causes less scratches, but still remove the snow prior to trying to pull it off.. this defeats the purpose of this LPT tho. The fastest way to remove snow from your car with doing the least damage is to use regular snow brush or brum. They will cause some light scratching as anything would, but it will be significantly less then a tarp and you might not even notice them. If you want you can even put your wipers up if you can to make clearing your window easier. Best scenario is to garage the car when you can or use something like a leaf blower to blow the snow off, but that's not always possible/practical..and in all honesty a bit overboard for most cars. Also if you own a black car..your're screwed swirls and scratches are the bane of glossy black paint.


Third edit: Get your car waxed, if your cars paint is properly maintained (i.e wash polish & Wax etc) the snow/water will bead up and slide of easier reducing the amount of scratches.

Second edit: Buy a shitty winter beater(that runs decent) slap some winter tires on there and not give 2 fucks about it.


Gold for me!? Haha, why thank you generous person.

u/Floggered · 55 pointsr/CowChop

We need to send them just a bunch of these stock wall decals in the PO box.

Edit: They need the smiling asian teenage boy for Aron.

u/thepurplekitten · 41 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Here you go! I bought two rolls, one wouldn't have been enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00504QXM0/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/freeseasy · 11 pointsr/DIY

Pour some epoxy over the top. It looks great and will totally protect the surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

u/albatrossssss · 10 pointsr/howto

TSP or trisodium phosphate Is the magic solution

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW

u/brahzoo · 10 pointsr/snowboarding

I did it on my old snowboard that was not gonna last the whole season.
-Hand Sanded the board with 120-160 grit paper. (my board has originally more of a matte paint on it then the typical glossy coats).
-I cleaned the top of the board throughly.
-I taped with painters tape all around the sides, I cut Q-Tips in half and put them in the binding screw holes to make sure that paint didn't go in.
-Spray painted with black matte with 2 layers.
-I made stencils out of foam paper, I spray with whatever other colors for the stencils
http://www.michaels.com/creatology-value-pack-foam-sheets/M10287634.html .

-After significant drying, I spray painted with a satin clear coat for protection:
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526492540&sr=1-1&keywords=krylon+clear+coat .

Here is my result:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hZXQJhVugNizjNel1 .

I would have used perhaps a more glossy finish since the snow stuck on the top of my board more than before with the factory paint. It's not something I would do a newer board personally.

u/sinefine · 10 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've done most of the smoothing techniques.

XTC-3D does not work on larger flat surfaces. It only makes flat surfaces wobbly uneven. It works great if you have a lot of curves. Don't expect to sand this easily. It's a pain in the ass to hand-sand with sandpaper. If you have a file, it works much better. You don't have to wait the entire day. It sets non-sticky hard in about 6 hours. Another downside of XTC is that you have limited working time. It starts to harden after 20 minutes and its hard to spread even after that.

The best method is to spray everything with filler primer spray can. Sand it light with 80 ~ 100 grit sandpaper. Anything higher is harder to sand.

Then use this to fill gaps/uneven places: https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK

Sand with 200 grit paper. Repeat if you still have uneven places. Finish everything with 800 grit paper. It will come out so smooth you want to rub your face against it.

u/72skylark · 9 pointsr/DIY

Best thing to do if it's been used for food and has absorbed any grease, wax, sealer, etc. is to use cabinet scrapers and try to get as much of the gunk off so that you can sand dry wood. I made the mistake of trying to sand a used BB cutting board and wasted a lot of time just gumming up the sandpaper. The cabinet scrapers would probably do a lot to minimize airborne bacteria as well.

u/TimIsSoFly · 8 pointsr/cars

My scraper has a brush side, and on that same side also has a rubber like bar that I can use on my car and paint will be fine. Then of course the other end is a scraper.

Like this

u/Meganzoor · 8 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I say go for it! It's really easy to work with. I got mine here though that is Amazon for Canada so you might have to look it up on your country's Amazon instead.

u/fuelvolts · 6 pointsr/Frugal

Add a little bit of TSP to the detergent cup every time you wash. TSP is pretty much pure phosphates. Only do this is your municipality allows phosphates in the water supply, though.

TSP on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW

u/rivalarrival · 6 pointsr/DIY

Trisodium Phosphate

It's in the paint section at Lowes/Home Depot. You might find it elsewhere. I've never used it personally, but I know it has a shit-ton of uses.

wiki entry

u/windupmonkeys · 6 pointsr/modelmakers

Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.

For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.

For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively: https://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/

If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:

  1. Spray cans: http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel (Model Master Spray Enamels). What you'd be doing is buying the gray or whatever base color of the Snowspeeder, then spraying that (do this outdoors, this stuff is noxious). Similarly, Tamiya makes good spray paint in a can. Long term, this is not an ideal solution. They cost a lot per can and that money is better spent saving up towards an airbrush if you continue building models Detail painting can be brush painted by Tamiya, Model Master, Vallejo, AK, or other branded paints (these are all acrylics.)

  2. Brush painting only:
    If you are only brush painting, see this guide: http://www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2007/02/basics-of-brush-painting

    As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.

    An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.

    If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray-Tamiya/dp/B000BMXRUM. Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.

    Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.

    Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.

    Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.

    A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:
    https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/

    https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzzms/brush_painted_1144_f18e_old_project_not_complete/


  3. Re: tomboy/judgment: You shouldn't have to worry about such things and he's probably just as happy to sell you kits anyway. It's a hobby after all (and let's face it, a damn nerdy one).

    Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.

    Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.
u/With_which_I_will_no · 6 pointsr/woodworking

obligatory post for

http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.

it's like the bible of finishing.

u/Blusttoy · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

I personally swear by Mr Super Clear


Having tried Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Krylon, Mr Super Clear is very forgiving in terms of topcoating. My general experience is that Krylon's particles feels somewhat larger than Mr Super Clear, which will result in a rougher matte finish. While Krylon is easily value for money, it's also meant for larger objects, such as handicraft or table showpieces.

Mr Hobby feels the same as My Super Clear but the small can finishes up quickly. Note that different paint bases may "eat" another layer. For non-painted kits, it's fine but for painted, it's one of the important considerations

Tamiya is also a decent brand but I felt that I needed more coats to achieve the same result as Mr Super Clear.

When I have issues with frosting, a quick layer of Mr Super Clear Gloss will clear the frosting, and I'll matte topcoat it on another day, and the previous frosting will not be noticeable.

An example of my OOB Marasai that was topcoated with Mr Super Clear

The O with the matte coat, doing a decent job hiding the decal edges as well after Mr Mark setter and softer

Don't mind the titanium finish Sinanju, that's uncoated. The Sazabi was matte coated

RG stickers after being topcoated

However, if you're asking for topcoat using an airbrush, I do not have an airbrush set, so am unable to provide any opinion.

u/qwertythe300th · 6 pointsr/CowChop
u/xrelaht · 5 pointsr/VXJunkies
u/laukaus · 5 pointsr/programming

Bam - nuclear duct tape.

"* Ideal for applications in the shipbuilding, nuclear power plant and stainless steel industries"

u/StrangeRover · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

I'm an automotive test engineer at a desert proving ground, where ambient temperatures can reach 115F and vehicle interior temperatures can climb well over 200F in localized areas, and I've always counted on 3M Nuclear Grade Duct Tape. It's certainly not a laboratory-grade solution, and I'm sure it doesn't offer the best precision, but it gets the job done in the ranges I need it for, and I can leave it on for several months and still remove it cleanly. I just take a 2x2 inch square of tape, slap it behind the thermocouple, and plug it in. Sticks to glass no problem, and has no trouble holding the weight of the thermocouple wire if I need it to.

u/TheSconnieExperience · 5 pointsr/reactiongifs

Yup, totally agree. They seem like a good idea, until that bitch is frozen to the car and you have to chip it out with the ice scraper anyway. More often than not if you have to use the cover the rest of the car will be covered and you're back to using the scraper/brush again. The best thing you can get for you car in the winter is a solid scraper with a nice extender like this guy.

u/WriterMcwriteface · 5 pointsr/interestingasfuck

I have found that getting a spray can trigger makes a huge difference for me. It changes the angle at which I hold the can to something more natural for me and the trigger makes pressing the spray button smoother and more consistent.

u/cardsash · 5 pointsr/makeuporganization

You’re welcome! It’s a lot cheaper too, this is what I used. It’s super easy to work with, I’d just recommend using a box cutter or exacto knife. I love it so much, it makes my vanity feel more high quality and it’s way easier to clean. Please share your results if you end up doing it!

u/fxakira · 4 pointsr/Gunpla
  1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
  2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
  3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
  • Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  • Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  • Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  • Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  • I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.

    Good luck!
u/shakestheclown · 4 pointsr/lifehacks

You can still buy TSP and add it yourself if you hate the environment but love clean dishes: https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

You can find it at home improvement stores as well, but make sure you don't buy the useless TSP-PF (phosphate free) in the green box. I bought mine for homebrew cleaning but I don't remember why, maybe for disgusting bottles.

Supposedly phosphates may not be responsible for the algae bloom issue.

u/thesnakeinwoodysboot · 4 pointsr/turning

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EJ4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8hwjzb789RJCD

This book right here. Everything you need to know about finishing is in this.

u/constantino2 · 4 pointsr/woodworking

you will want to use an epoxy finish, wood itself is obviously not water tight, and any typical finish like polyurethane are not permanently water tight. So you basicly need to coat the wood in clear plastic, atleast on the inside.

this would work https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

u/iBallThatsAll · 4 pointsr/cars

I'm using this clear coat spray. It's has a UV sealant added. Will this due?

u/AShavedApe · 4 pointsr/vinyl

This is the exact product I used. Cheaper or better may exist but this is what I used. Design folie d-c-fix Self-Adhesive Film, Grey Marble 17.72 inches wide , 6.56 feet long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00504QXM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J0zVAb3SXG896

u/hellopandaaaa · 4 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Thanks! It's a roll of adhesive film I got from Amazon. The quality of it surprised me because it has a sheen that makes it look real. It's a great idea to change up the look of a desk (or another piece of furniture).

u/StopDropNFrag · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

For anyone interested, I've also used Mr. Color Top Coat and Molotov UV. They're much more expensive, but it works for me since I also use them on my Gundam builds.

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Top-Coat-Flat-Spray/dp/B0000WS12C

https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Urban-Varnish-Gloss-Matte/dp/B07214DLBF

Also, for the customizers out there, this is worth the watch. It's a comparison between different top coats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKh0nYnivDo

u/silverwolf294 · 3 pointsr/tamagotchi

Ok so I havent try this on my Tamas but seeing how the shell is plastic it might work and be a better solution than nail polish. My other hobby is building plastic models and I use a clear plastic top coat to protect them. Needless to say protect the screen with masking tape before doing that, a few light coats should do the trick. Here is what I use:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS12C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gkCzCb36VG8ZJ

Also your local hobby store like Michael and Hobby Lobby should have other options. Just make sure they are Flat or Matte not glossy.

u/ZeusThunder369 · 3 pointsr/watercooling

If you already have tubes bent/installed, one thing you could try (was something I considered but didn't end up trying it out) is just applying frosted glass spray paint to them. Could just order a single tube and a can of paint to try it out.

Paint is very cheap too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XCKBA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/blueunitzero · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Sorry had the wrong wording its Tamiya Fine Primer

I guess i was thinking about (and still screwed up) the name of their glue i use

u/Lrs8855 · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Drop some PVA on a base, spread it around with a bush you don't care much about (stiff bristle works best).

I set the mini down inside a sandwich tupperware, pull some "washed dirt" or "driveway magic" as some call it, and cover the base in the stuff entirely, the more the merrier. Wiggle it a bit to fill in gaps, and leave to dry overnight.

After that night, I usually take a stiff bristle brush (or toothbrush, which I prefer), and scrape out any loose rocks and dust from the bases.

After the removal of stuff-that-didn't-stick-well, you're good to prime your miniatures as usual! GW stuff works awesome, but I like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gray is easy to work UP from into brights, and DOWN from into darks. If you want to take it a step further and "pre-highlight" your models, prime white on top, grey in mid, and a splash of black around the feet (or any combination, if your color scheme is too light for black around feed, two-tone works well).

TLDR: Answer to your question, Glue -> Sand/Dirty -> Brushie Brushie -> Prime.

u/WeoftheThing · 3 pointsr/Norse

Clean it well. Seal the inside with a food safe sealant. Bee's wax is the most common, but you can get other hardier things like this bar top sealer. bee's wax shouldn't be washed with hot water, or used with hot beverages it'll damage the seal.

u/ryzekiel · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

u/metallicsecurity · 3 pointsr/Silverbugs

Don't forget some nuclear-grade duct tape to patch any holes.

u/mexicoke · 3 pointsr/DIY

I would put a layer of epoxy coating on top of the whole thing. Something like this should be available at a local big box store.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

u/ztherion · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I live in an area with heavy snowfall and prefer this type of brush since it removes a lot of snow quickly. Not necessarily recommending that specific model- mine is one my dad bought at some random auto parts store.

u/bovinitysupreme · 3 pointsr/lifehacks
  1. Prevention. Use Rain-X or wax, and if you expect ice then cover it with canvas, cardboard, or whatever.

  2. Just scrape it. When you own a decent scraper with a long handle only the worst ice is more than a mild annoyance.

  3. If you have time and feel like spending the fuel, run the car for a half hour or more with the heat blasting on the windshield. (I wonder if a space heater could be rigged to do the job safely?) Just don't try the scraper after this, at least not with much force, or you could crack the glass. Go ahead, ask me how I know that it's not just theory...

  4. For frost (but not necessarily thick ice), squirt that "negative a zillion degrees de-icer" windshield washer fluid that you've got. If it's decent then it will melt ice.

  5. Squirt some de-icer. I like the pump spritz bottles rather than the aerosol cans, but the aerosol cans are tougher...those plastic pump bottles can get brittle in the cold.
u/ChikNoods · 3 pointsr/Honda

listen. after you sand and polish. Get this clear coat -- make sure you get GLOSS and makes sure its UV resistant + sticks to plastic. UV is what we're fighting. 3 LIGHT wet coats 2 minutes a part.

This is a before

This is an after with Rustoleum clear coat -- I did this about a month ago and they look exactly the same today. Car washes, rain, hot heat. perfect

full shot

u/LaVieLaMort · 3 pointsr/AskWomen

I painted 4 dozen mason jars. I used chalk board spray paint it worked great. 2 coats was best. Also one of these things helps a lot.

u/tinytankzz · 3 pointsr/plastidip

http://www.bombingscience.com/graffiti-shop.htm

I had ordered a grab bag of tips from them awhile back on a kick to try my hand at painting with spray cans. When I went to dip I just found one that fit and sprayed fat.

Handle: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2BEIJEESJKGKN&coliid=ILZ4R4YQQXXPM

u/pri227 · 3 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

Nightstand is Ikea Tarva
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50219609/?preferedui=desktop

Stained with Varathane American Walnut Wood Stain

Covered the Tabletop with adhesive marble contact paper
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00504QXM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_y9MkxbBJ2YNX9

Drawer pull(Not seen in pic)
http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/product/home-hardware/26731984.jsp#/

u/FlyingSMonster · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

This was recommended to me a little while ago, Perfect Plastic putty.

Best filler I've ever used, it goes on, however you want it, then you just let it dry for a few minutes to an hour or so, then you can use a damp cloth or a damp cotton swab and wipe down the excess since it cleans up with water. It's very similar to milliput, but it seems finer to be and its easier to use since it's just a paste, not two solids you have to mix.

I find this type of putty is the absolute best kind, because it requires no sanding at all to clean up, meaning you won't destroy panel lines or any raised details.

u/PangeaDestructor · 3 pointsr/NYCbike

Get a pair of these, they protect your eyes from the cold, don't fog up, and aren't as bulky as goggles.

u/bryce831 · 3 pointsr/finishing

A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.

u/tuna1997 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Well there are a few things that could've gone wrong looks like.

Firstly, which topcoat from Mr Hobby did you get? Did you use an airbrush and used the mr color lacquer line or did you use Mr. Topcoat like this one (Short can same size as a Tamiya sprays) or Mr. Superclear like this one (Tall can same size as Tamiya primer)? Mr. Topcoat is acrylic based, while Mr. Superclear is lacquer based.

If you used the first can, it's actually acrylic based which is also what the gundam marker eraser is designed to remove (acrylic-based paint or alcohol-based paint).

Another issue could've been simply because you rubbed too hard. Regardless if you use lacquer-based or acrylic based paint, if you rub too hard against the painted plastic piece, you'll eventually rub some of the topcoat off.

u/Leo-Tyrant · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

The major impact is due to the Matte top coat:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS12C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DdWuDbQHS4ZJE

They are VERY cheap in Japan but good luck importing them at a good price.

u/Chaguman · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

This is Topcoat (cost less than this like 10USD) it makes the plastic less glossy ( makes it look way better without having to paint) also protects the plastic and panel linings

u/elescapo · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

I use this stuff. A bit pricey, but can be found at lower prices than Amazon if you look around. Works great. Nice flat finish. (If you want certain parts to be shiny you will need to go over them afterward with 'Ard Coat or some other gloss medium.)

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Top-Coat-Flat-Spray/dp/B0000WS12C

u/svidrod · 2 pointsr/DIY

Get a box of TSP. Mix according to directions, if you have sensitive skin, feel free to wear gloves, I never bother and it has had no impact on my skin. Wash the walls down good with that before painting, it'll remove grime, and the shine from previous coats. Don't forget to let it dry completely before painting. Unless you are somewhere very humid a half hour is sufficient.

This will allow your new paint to adhere to the wall much better.

u/elcollin · 2 pointsr/answers

This is most likely a problem with the soap. Since they took phosphates out of our dishwasher and laundry detergents, these products have been more likely to leave a residue. Using even less soap is one way to go, or you could buy some trisodium phosphate online and mix it in with your soap. My parents had been complaining about their dishwasher leaving a residue on all the dishes, so I bought this. I mixed it into their detergent such that it was 6% Na3PO4 by mass. They no longer have any residue problems.

It's worth mentioning that they took phosphates out of our detergent because they contribute to algal blooms when they make their way into our lakes or rivers. Take that as you will.

u/midlifecrackers · 2 pointsr/Etsy

TPS also works well as a degreaser.

u/uofkENTucky · 2 pointsr/trees

Instant frosted glass. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1903830-Frosted-Glass-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKBA And you can use painters tape to make a design.

u/malvoliosf · 2 pointsr/DIY

Call 911, make a death threat. After SWAT busts down your door, file an insurance claim and get a new door.

Less creatively, a can of Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass is $3.67 from Amazon.

u/thenightgaunt · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Brush on or spray?

Always use spray.
My preference is Tamiya grey fine primer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMXRUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_16BBDb3Z3AVA1

I've never had an issue with it. One thin coat will do it. You're just putting in on there to help the paint have something to adhere to smoothly. That's all unless you really care about what color your base cost goes over.
That's why I go with grey personally.

Also dont spray when it's raining or high humidity. It screws with the paint.

u/Orgell_Evaan · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

u/solipsistnation · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

For acrylic you can use water as a thinner, or windex if you really want (some people use it to thin paint for airbrushing). For enamel you need turpenoid or paint thinner. Odorless turpenoid from an art store is good because it's not stinky, but you could use turpentine or whatever.

I'm not sure basic enamel will work as a primer-- is it a fairly matte finish? I like Tamiya's spraycan primer-- it's very fine-grained matte paint and sticks to all kinds of stuff.

Have you bought any paint yet at all? If not, get a spraycan of Tamiya primer, and use all acrylic for everything else. It's easy to clean up and won't give you headaches if you don't have good ventilation, and you'll know nothing's going to eat anything else and you can mix everything with everything else... Thin with water, clean your brushes and stuff with water, keep it simple.

This is the primer:

http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray/dp/B000BMXRUM

One can will last for 4 or 5 1/35 tanks.

u/m1rv · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

Someone has been using this stuff out at renfests for years - Link.

u/umlaut · 2 pointsr/Norse

Ah, ok. The problem with those is usually the cheap fit between the wood base and the horn.

A lot of people use Envirotex to seal their horns, that would certainly work in your case: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour--Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432588567

u/crisby · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

I've done a similar thing:

https://imgur.com/a/lm5Yx

I mixed the glow powder with this resin and dripped it into all the bug-eaten spots in the wood.

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0

u/liquidhot · 2 pointsr/woodworking

This is actually before they are coated and I'm not sure I chose the right option here, but I'm currently coating them with a 2 part epoxy resin which I will then sand with some 600 grit to take away the gloss and give it a satin finish.

However, the kind I used is really meant for a horizontal surface, so I'm having trouble getting it to apply to all of the sides in an even fashion.

u/ShacklefordLondon · 2 pointsr/woodworking

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

u/mat5041 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Try:
https://generalfinishes.com/

If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

u/dstampfli · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

u/JustClearingThisUp · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Why not invest in some quality duct tape?

u/JCollierDavis · 2 pointsr/pics

Damn, I really want some of that Nuclear Duct Tape! Too bad it's $19 a roll.

u/CmdrSquirrel · 2 pointsr/guns

You're also going to need this.

u/flavor8 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yeah I patched the big voids with mortar. You can see a slight difference in color but it's not bad at all. My sink is ground/polished down to the point that there is a lot of exposed aggregate (and the surface had a shine before the epoxy, I guess from the polished silicon in the sand?), so there's a lot going on anyway.

If you are leaving any voids (which is fine, just make sure they can drain so that water doesn't sit in them), make sure to thoroughly vacuum them so there's no cement dust that could come loose.

I (think I) used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Here's a pic of the sink; it looks better in person :) http://imgur.com/a/k1lwZ#9

u/eadsm · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/Guygan · 2 pointsr/DIY

Sounds like you want to use the kind of finish that is used on bar tops and bar tables. There are many different brands, such as this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Parks-1-qt-Gloss-Super-Glaze-Finish-and-Preservative-241352/202056337

Or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

u/jkarovskaya · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Acacia us beautiful stuff.

I've used this liquid epoxy before for an outdoor sign I made, held up OK but in direct UV, it will need recoating every so often.

do a small test batch on scrap to get process down

For inside, should be fine

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

u/WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Give me minute to look up the video I saw but it is not that hard and the acid is very dilute. It takes less money than powdercoating and the finish is amazing. Plus it can be used to do multicolor effects. The bar top finish is an epoxy based finish. Ill look for a link brb.

Ok here it is the bartop finish
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEGLBS?pc_redir=1396668298&robot_redir=1

And here is anodizing.

This guy is monotone but he is very clear.

http://youtu.be/sI-oiBKAyOY

http://youtu.be/m802YwZCj04

Multicolor mask technique

http://youtu.be/8OpewWuDJJE


I already etch boards this is not much more difficult
Plus you can do photoemulsion resist and do really crazy graphics.
I will be doing some of this in the next few months and will post my results.

u/scherlock79 · 2 pointsr/finishing

Unfortunately, repairing porcelain enamel surfaces isn't a DIY job. There are some products for bathtubs and there are high temperature enamel paints, but those aren't porcelain enamel coatings. There are companies that can refinish the item for you, like this one, http://www.ipe-porcelain.com/, no idea if they are any good though.

If this for an oven, and the part doesn't actually touch food, I'd contact Rustoleum, they make high temp enamel paints for grills, I'd imagine an oven a similar enough to be okay, though you might need bake in the finish before cooking food in it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_x0J3BbHXPYC45

u/Taurothar · 2 pointsr/DIY

A high temp barbeque paint would work wonderfully for what you're looking for. You're only painting the handles, which won't be in direct contact with food I assume. There are a few colors available, but pretty limited, so a varied stripe pattern might work.

They're designed for a grill which is near high temperatures and food safely, but not in direct contact with the food. You could check with the customer support at Rust-Oleum to be sure it's safe on kitchen cookware but I can't see a reason it wouldn't be.

u/BlackBeltJake · 2 pointsr/kettlebell

Buy a can of stove-black at the hardware store. something like this. Cheap and easy to apply, but do it outside (LFMF).

u/plywooden · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Maybe a curved cabinet scraper?

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

A sharp, fine file and burnisher will keep / make a nice sharp rolled edge on them.

u/40ozz · 2 pointsr/woodworking

welcome! if you want a regular set, i have this one and i'm very happy with the quality and performance of them.

u/AlwaysAtRiverwood · 2 pointsr/handtools

Amazon sells these. Among other scrapers.

u/pfharlockk · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm not an expert, but if it were me, the first thing I would try is using a card scraper.

They are cheap no matter what (whether you make one or buy one), you can buy them in all kinds of different shapes from places like woodcraft or online.

I've also used putty knives (like the kind you use for dry wall) to make card scrapers. I can't personally tell a difference in the effectiveness doing it this way vs buying them (and at this point I've done it both ways).

here is an example of a set you can buy on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

the curvy one would probably make the most sense for the fine work here.

basically you sharpen them with a file and a screw driver (make sure it's hard metal going all the way up the shaft like an old craftsman screwdriver or the like, also it should be round and not some weird hexagonal shape.

there are lots of videos on how to sharpen a card scraper, so you should watch them, but basically you file the edge flat across, then use the screwdriver (which should be made of harder steel than the scraper which is why this works), to turn a hook onto the edge of the steel.

u/gsolarfish · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Any woodworking store will carry them, probably not Home Depot or Lowe's. Amazon has them at https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE, I think I got mine from Busy Bee in Canada.

u/red_cheesy_sticks · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I would print at the highest resolution possible. Then use a spray paint enamel protective coating. Apply multiple layers until you get a thick, glossy, smooth coat. I just tried this this past weekend and the results were pretty neat! You can still kind of see the layers, but the surface is very smooth and shiny to the tough. Plus it kept the original color of the PLA.

This is exactly what I got:

Rust-Oleum 249117 Painter's Touch Multi Purpose Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BWOS5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ifBJxbFZ63HHJ

u/radicalpancakes · 2 pointsr/Acura_RSX

A clear that is UV resistant. Rustoleum makes one that should work

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249117-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS5I

u/fortunerookie91 · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

Looks really good, you have to look really close to be able to see that it's not real marble.
I got it at a construction market in the Netherlands (Karwei), but I think you could probably get it from Amazon. Maybe this?

https://www.amazon.com/DC-Fix-346-0306-Decorative-Self-Adhesive/dp/B00504QXM0

It's really addictive though, I started covering all sorts of objects in marble until the roll was empty :D

u/rob12770 · 2 pointsr/ender3

I use wet & dry paper starting with 400 grit, ( i print at .12 whenever possible) then 800 grit then 1000 grit, then primer and paint, i use THIS putty to fill any joins etc, i find it to be very good,

before sanding i use files a lot , a small mini file set, i use this one, id be lost without it !

u/PacManDreaming · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

It's just usually called "green putty". There are several different brands. GW carries a two part putty, but it's the same as other brands, but way more expensive.

This is a two part that's really good. You can also use it to mold and sculpt parts, like purity seals and the like.

This plastic putty has a nozzle so you can control the bead.

Tamiya and Squadron both make white/green putty that's good for filling small gaps and cracks.

u/CSnarf · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

First, foremost and most important: read the survival guide. Don't read it casually. Read it like your life depends on it. http://survival.burningman.com/

All our welcome. Not everyone is 20 and beautiful and drunk. Some are. I frankly like the fatter, older, wrinklier crowd more.

And here is what I sent today to the newbies in my camp. A shopping list of sorts:

for the newbies. Here are some things I can't live without at Burning man. You will find there are many different versions/opinions/etc. But this is what I use.

Camelbak:
You MUST carry water and several other items. Combing these into a backpack makes sense to me. We'll tag it with the camp locale when we get it so if it gets lost it has a chance of returning. Cheap ones tend to leak, so I recommend name brand on this: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=camelbak+hydration+pack&sprefix=camelbac%2Caps%2C310

Eye protection:
I hate goggles. Other people like them. I have tried many types. They all fog. So last time I started using very close fitting sunglasses type deal and it was awesome. For sure not as sealed, but I will trade that for eye sweat and fog. Whatever you pick, bring multiple pairs. Do not leave camp without these. Dust storms are real. I like something that's clear for night and shaded for day
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Virtua-Protective-Eyewear-11872-00000-20/dp/B00AEXKR4C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1404329889&sr=8-6&keywords=protective+glasses
Ooh a 6 pack: http://www.amazon.com/Eyewear-SR111AR-Reclus-Glasses-Reflective/dp/B002R9DBEE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1404329916&sr=8-16&keywords=protective+glasses

Dust Mask:
You can use a bandana. You can use a keffiyeh (middle eastern scarf thing- the old school choice for desert protection) or you can use some form of mask- be it a disposable painters mask to a high tech respirator. This is another item you do not leave camp without and you bring multiple of (or multiple changes of filters)
I have one of these: playalung.com and like it.

Skin stuff:
Your skin will be pissed. You are walking in seriously alkaline powder. For sure we will buy the costco sized bucket of baby wipes and lotion (do your feet and naughty bits a MINIMUM of twice a day). If you have a favorite lotion etc, bring it. Group sunscreen and aloe will also be purchased. If you need chafe cream, bring it.

A cup:
People want to give you booze, or soup, or flavored water or something. They are not going to give you a cup, or silverware, or a plate. If you want those things. carry them. I usually can get away with just a cup.
I have something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Coffee-Cup-Camping-Travel-3-5-diameter/dp/B005FJE5HA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404332088&sr=8-5&keywords=metal+camping+cup
carbabiner to outside of backpack and VOILA.

Ziplock bags:
You are responsible for your trash. If you have gross trash, you are still responsible for carrying back to camp with you. Have a ziplock in your backpack for this purpose. Putting tampons, poopy wipes etc in the porta-potties is ABSOLUTELY NOT OKAY. They go in your ziplock along with candy wrappers and grilled cheese smeared napkins.

Other stuff to carry/always have:
Hand sanitizer. There is often none at the portapotties. same goes for toliet paper.
Blinky stuff/lights. Half the fun of burning man is to get lost. Sometimes you wander for so long it's dark. If you are walking in the dark without lights on you you run a very good risk of getting hit by an art car. We call these people Darkwads and they are not looked on favorably. I often carry a bunch of glow bracelets for the express purpose of tagging darkwads for their own safety. Light your front and back at a minimum. Feel free to go crazy. More is better.
*Your bike lock. If you don't lock your bike, you will lose your bike. Then your ass is walking. And its far.

Medication: I bring a costco sized bottle of ibuprofen, benadryl and immodium to camp, as well as bandage stuff, some burn cream and blister treatments.

Ear Plugs: It's loud. Depending on where you camp maybe really loud. You probably want to sleep at some point. Bring some ear plugs.

u/SluttyGandhi · 2 pointsr/nevertellmetheodds

Best part is that these glasses can be found for under eight dollars.

u/sam191817 · 2 pointsr/Tools

3M Safety Glasses, Virtua CCS Protective Eyewear 11872, Removable Foam Gasket, Clear Anti-Fog Lenses, Corded Ear Plug Control System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEXKR4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-zy0Db7ABYENF

u/CyphersFallen · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

I use :

EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPtYDbX2C34AW

I use construction paper. But I have found many problems using card stock. Switched to heavyweight rather than card stock and have had no problems. Thinner the better.

u/wolvsbain · 2 pointsr/woodworking

heres the one i use for castings and orbs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Its quite slow acting so its easy to get bubbles out and is really nice and impact resistant. might want to leave it overnight cause if theres not much of it it will take longer to set cause of the chemical reaction heat. a dixie cup full will set in 30 min, but an 18th of an inch in the same dixie cup might take 6 hours to set.

u/climber_g33k · 2 pointsr/gaming

Fuck buying at lowes, you can get a gallon of epoxy on amazon for 48 bucks + shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NLPCA5Y/

u/Lvcios_Lunchbox · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This community has been great with answering so many questions but this is the first time I can’t find the question I’m asking
I’m hoping to step up my building with adding paints. So my questions are
1.For now I just want to paint the Master Grades inner frame. From what I’ve gathered, this would be a neat inner frame color but do I need to prime the inner frame ?
2. Assuming the inner frame is spray painted with question 1’s spray can and I go about my regular building process, when I matte topcoat finish with this, will it react it some weird way with the inner frame color ?

u/Trainn51 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

u/Propeller3 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey guys, I'm looking to build my first serious Gunpla here soon (built a bunch when I was a kid) and I want to finish it with a top coat. I've found this item from Mr. Topcoat, which seems good, but I was wondering if there are similar options in larger quantities or for better prices?

u/Nice_to_Meet_Me · 1 pointr/todayilearned

Fun fact: An ingredient in Lucky Charms is trisodium phosphate, which is also used as a heavy duty cleaner.

u/Sphingomyelinase · 1 pointr/DIY

It's a product as well as ingredient

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001GOGQW

u/emongolab · 1 pointr/fakeid

I searched through the sub some, and found that someone suggested using a light coat of this http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4?th=1&psc=1

I'm still a little hesitant tho because the IDs were $150 and I don't really want to ruin them.

u/just_me_bike · 1 pointr/PrintedCircuitBoard

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4

That is what is currently being used. I don't see how this helps all that much to be honest. They have been doing this for years though.

We also handling the boards to much imo. We get them from our supplier then program them, test them, spray them then mount them. Ideally it'd be nice to find a company that could send them 100% complete to us. If you have any recommendations that would also be appreciated.

u/Nitwad · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

It may come down to a difference in printers. Mine dries really quickly and isn't prone to smearing because I have a transparency print setting built in. Yours might use more ink or a different type of ink or something. If the ink continues to be annoying, I highly recommend spraying your sheets with something like this before you put them on the cards.

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Okay so would this top coat work? or maybe this one An extra question. Would I place stickers before gloss coat or after gloss and before matte?

u/foxlie · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I bought this necklace from COS a while back and the gold finish is rubbing off the chain and it's getting a metallic smell. Does anyone have a great solution for this? After about 30 seconds of research I ordered this Krylon spray but I was wondering if anyone knows of a better solution before I spray it down.

u/thatotherguy321 · 1 pointr/DIY

don't know what OP used, but there are spray cans for frosted glass.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1903830-Frosted-Glass-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKBA

u/DistantRaine · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I came here to say film too. They also make a spray paint version here.

u/Me-as-I · 1 pointr/Vive

This is supposed to be for glass, perhaps it'd work for you...



https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1903830-Frosted-Glass-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKBA

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/DIY

You can try something like this instead of etching, for $5 it's worth a shot.

u/nyy22592 · 1 pointr/Hue

I appreciate all of your insight, but I'm sorry if I made it seem like I was doing anything complex. I don't plan to do any wiring, which is why I bought the wall-ready socket.

Here's the plan:

  1. Take one of these and remove the LED candle screwed in from the bottom

  2. Use Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint to create a frosted effect on the glass. I'm also looking for a better option to dull the light coming through because I suspect this spray might be overkill.

  3. Drill a hole in the wall-facing side of the top part of the lantern so the cable can go out the back while the bulb portion hangs down. Very crude diagram of what I mean here.

  4. Use wooden sconces to hang the lantern on the wall, adding a hole to fit the cable through it and hide it behind. The cable matches the wall color and will be above a table, so it'll be relatively low-profile.

    I was thinking of finding a way to secure the bulb just so it doesn't move around freely, but I'm really just kind of winging all of this.
u/lazy_eye_of_sauron · 1 pointr/SteamController

Like everyone here said, the easy and save way would to be to get some vinyl decals. However, if you are dead set on painting, then it's not too hard to do. you're going to have to disassemble the controller. From there sand the controller, this gives the primer something to bite on to. once everything is nice and sanded take your primer (I recommend this.) and spray in light, even coats and let cure for the time on the can, and maybe a few hours longer. Once you're happy with the primer, take your spraypaint and apply in light, thin coats. Remember to let the paint dry fully between coats.
Once you are happy with the color and it has dried for the recommended time on the can, go ahead and choose your choice of clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte. also krylon works best for this) and apply in thin layers like you did the primer and paint. after it has sat for the directions on the can. you can now put the controller back together and test everything out. Assuming that you didnt mess up putting the controller back together, you now have a painted controller.

u/Merendino · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

My favorite prime is expensive but it is literally the best I've ever used, by miles.

Tamiya gray primer. They make a white and black I think. They are far and away better than anything you can buy at lowes. Comes at a premium price point though. You can pick up a can for like 6 bucks at a hobby lobby with their 40% coupon though.

u/Trapper_1 · 1 pointr/minipainting

bonoboxITA,

Sorry for the bad start you had. You should seriously consider using only this for future priming:

Primer

It's very fine, won't clog details, will not remain sticky, and dries matte.

u/Kurelx · 1 pointr/modelmakers

It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .

You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.

Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.

u/hatsfourcats · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What can I use to remove tamiya spray primer ?

I'm new to using rattle cans and the pieces I did last night have some pooling.

u/akaisuiseinosha · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for Plastic and Metal.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Trtlman · 1 pointr/crafts
u/LH99 · 1 pointr/boardgames

I used this stuff. I think it cured for almost 14 days before I rubbed it.

Environmental Technology 32-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_udmuDb775X4MY

u/EricAzure · 1 pointr/cosplay

Thanks, I'm going to go ahead and try thin layers of Envirotex pour on gloss. Has 1 bottle of resin and 1 bottle of hardener that you mix.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZYYQ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/FuriousE · 1 pointr/woodworking

Check this stuff out: https://amzn.com/B000BZYYQ0

Or, you could put a piece of glass on top of the door.

I would make sure that this is going to be an aesthetic that you'll like though...

u/ssuing8825 · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/HuggableBear · 1 pointr/woodworking

Per Bob Flexner's book,

Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.

The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.

It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/woodworking

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

u/DouglasHufferton · 1 pointr/todayilearned
u/asiatrails · 1 pointr/The_Donald

10 rolls of this might reduce the noise to an acceptable level.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Performance-Nuclear-48-Millimeter-54-8-Meter/dp/B000NG3ZKI

u/tommyd_pl · 1 pointr/environment
u/kmmk · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I'm not 100% sure but if anyone is wondering...

This is the kind of product they used to cover the sprinkles:

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

It's not very easy to use though. After applying an even layer, air bubbles will appear and you need to burst them with a torch.

u/File_Peter · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you are having people sign the bare wood and then you want to cover it with something glossy i suggest epoxy. Something like this should do the trick. Check youtube for tutorials on how to use it, but it is fairly simple.

u/o0BlackDragon0o · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Take your time to clean nub marks, it really does make a massive difference at the end, and is totally worth the time it takes.

as for other stuff that really makes a difference, get a panel line marker, they are dirt cheap and make so much difference to a kit.

the final thing is to get some matte clear coat, this gets rid of the "plastic" look to a kit, you will need to get a specialist one for plastic tho, so it get a little more expensive, a can like the one linked would last for 6-7 hg kits easily. if you have a games workshop near you as well, they also sell clear coat, though i would only reccomend this if you cant get mr. super clear or tamita stuff shipped to you, as its more expensive in my experience.

Good luck building your kit and welcome to the hobby!

u/crazypipo · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/iDingo91 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

  • Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  • Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  • Gundam Marker Value Set
  • Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  • Bamboo Skewers
  • Alligator Clips
  • ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  • Styrofoam Blocks

    I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.

    So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?

    Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?

    TL;DR:

  • Are the items I have listed a good starting point?

  • Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?

  • Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?

  • Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?

  • Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.

  • What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?

  • What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?

u/Fongore · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So I'm trying Mr. Super Clear Matte for the first time and got a couple questions. If Im doing "light" coats how many coats should I do? How much drying time should I allow between each coat? Thanks!

u/StrikeSunrise · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?

Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418826&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+matte+spray


And this for a gloss/metallic? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418918&sr=8-3&keywords=to+coat+gloss+gundam

I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)

u/wakawakawomp · 1 pointr/Gunpla

2 Questions:

  1. What's the difference between these 2 'Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray Paint'?
    - Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray
    - Mr. Hobby Clear UV Cut Flat Spray
  2. Is it safe to spray lacquer paint (such as the flat top coats linked above) on bare plastic?
u/Turom · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thanks for the tip!

I found this one available for my country, is that it?

u/dodomir23 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm building a gunpla for the first time after making a few HGs back in middle school a few times, and I'm nearing finishing a kit.

I've seen some guides in Korean and they said "matt spray (I believe this is the right translation for that item)" is important to prevent discoloration. it was about 12 bucks they said, and I thought it would be worth the investment.

I've searched for the item on amazon but

https://www.amazon.ca/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525989482&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+clear

it's almost 80 bucks here....?

do you guys know where I can get it cheaper on NA (or an alternative), this is almost 600% markup @_@;;;

u/rockstang · 1 pointr/smoking

That is all just surface level rust and blemishes. You could clean that up to look new pretty easily or keep it as is and it would be just fine. Just make sure to use the [right kinda paint] (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7778830-Enamel-Spray-Bar-B-Que/dp/B0010O0C94) if you're planning on refacing.

u/karlhungusjr · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

> and best of all you get to avoid all of that unnecessary burning paint.

when you use he right kind of paint, it doesn't burn

u/BanHammerStan · 1 pointr/Harley

Remove the rust with emery cloth, tape the shit out of anything you don't want painted, and use barbecue paint in a rattle can.

u/Ski-gal · 1 pointr/Costco

Traegers, and in my experience most smokers, do rust. (except maybe the enamel green egg). Sand it and spray paint it with a high heat bbq paint. I do live in a high humidity area and I always keep mine. covered.

Rust-Oleum 7778830 High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qx9-ybAYJE9PG

u/BickNlinko · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I'm not sure what you paid for your turn signal , but the aftermarket ones are cheap , (mostly)universal and generally look better. Here is an example

>not to mention a disposable income.

Yah , and it's all disposed of on tires and shit for my race bike...and beer.

>I don't know where to buy exhaust paint from for cheap


You can find a cheap can of matte black grill paint at Home Depot or where ever for a few bucks , or try to just color it in with a sharpie. Here it is on Amazon for $4


As far as the lever goes if it's forged you may be able to bend it back. Here is a good thread on ADV rider on how to bend it back. . If it's a cheapo cast lever it will probably break.

u/jragle · 1 pointr/smoking

You can use Rust-Oleum High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black. Not painting the interiors would leave them susceptible to moisture and rust. Nice re-utilization by the way. Happy smokes.

u/invertedsquirrel · 1 pointr/pittsburgh

Make sure your windshield wiper fluid is freeze proof to -20F (If you bought it in CA, then it will not be)

Buy a good ice scraper for your windshield for defrosting in the morning. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-2610XM-Subzero-Extender-Snowbroom/dp/B0016GRTVU

u/MasterAdkins · 1 pointr/woodworking

Card scrappers are good for getting glue off. They even work well in corners.

u/Montmark · 1 pointr/woodworking

I would consider using a cabinet scraper (just sand a little after you remove the bulk of the finish) and a scratch stock. This will be AGES faster than sanding or stripping and a lot easier to clean up. It may take a while to get the profile perfect on the scratch stock, but it will save you hours of nasty chemicals or lots of dust and gummed-up sandpaper. Chances are, even if you do end up changing the profile of the handrail slightly in your efforts to remove the finish with a scraper, no one will know or care.

If you do decide to sand, a toothpick or sharpened dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it tightly might help you get into the grooves.

As for the gaps...You can do a total repair by cutting the sides clean with a dovetail saw and then gluing in a shim, which you would then sand to match the profile. Or you could go the lazy route and fix it with a filler paste; I would recommend mixing up some sawdust and glue, rather than using a store-bought product (they tend to be chalky and don"t last long).

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

u/mcavanah86 · 1 pointr/woodworking

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0

Here's a way to use the router to flatten a piece. I adapted this to smaller use by finding to boards I knew to be flat and making the sled ride on top of them.

If you still have some ridges after this, or just generally needs some smoothing, get a card scraper ( i got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C06BLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to knock them down and then follow up with some sanding up to 220 grit.

u/JaxenGrey · 1 pointr/pics

Rustoleum "Clear Coat" is what I use if I've sharpied art onto things, but usually they don't have a glossy finish like a guitar.

It looks like there is a gloss version but I don't know exactly how glossy it is; you'd want to test it on a similar surface before trying it on your project.

u/Friendly_Commissar · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Like aura_enchanted said, you won't need to mix it with anything. If you already have the Agathrax Earth, then that's fine, but if you're going to order it, actually order this instead. It's much closer to the old Devlan Mud than the new Agathrax Earth is. Edit to Add: Here's a great review/tutorial on using Secret Weapon Washes, look at the example given of the Skaven Clanrat -- that's what I want you to do to this model. You'll be amazed at the results.

And yes, the stuff you linked to is the stuff. You can also use Army Painter's Matte Anti-Shine. If you want the paint to last a long time, spray with a gloss sealer first. But the last step when you finish a model, especially if you wash it, is to spray a light coating of anti-shine. It's amazing how much it improves miniatures and makes them look more realistic.

u/afyaff · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

It is not automotive. It's 2x clear coat. Gloss. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249117-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS5I

Does it matter?

u/ChibLeader · 1 pointr/surfing

You want one that is glossy otherwise your board will be rough to the touch especially on a bare belly. I used this and it worked well.

u/bowei006 · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/poizin · 1 pointr/Audi

Awesome.. thanks for that info, much appreciated. I may try the grille swap myself using this guide.. I have done stuff like this on my old accord and altima but heard its trickier on these cars.

But thanks for the guide, I am going to look it over when I get out of work.

They sell these handles you can put over the plastidip can to give it a more even coating and helps the back and forth motion as well as your finger from pressing on the spray tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530359&sr=8-6&keywords=plastidip

Works really well and can use it for other spray bottles too.

Def keep me updated with pics and thanks again!

u/tocilog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you can't get an airbrush anytime soon, something like this can improve your use of a spray can.

u/nothingclevertoadd · 1 pointr/Bobbers

seems to me one of these would make life easier as well. not sure if this specific model will fit on the can you choose but it looks like you'd make nicer passes with this than the can by itself.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82

u/notoriouz · 1 pointr/BMW

I'm considering plasti dipping my entire car as well. Me and a buddy ran the numbers the other night and I can't remember it all, but it seemed really reasonable. I think buying the spray gun will be one of the more expensive parts, but once I have it, I have it. And then if someone else decides they want theirs done, I can do it for them for a slight cost ;)

It does look the same as far as I can tell. From what I read, plasti dip has a little rougher of a finish, where this doesn't. But I can't say for sure because I've never used the plasti dip.

Yes, I just used a spray can for the rims, I suggest buying one of the contraptions that you put on the can that makes spraying easier though. My fingers went numb 20 minutes into doing it. It's been over 48 hours now and I still have no feeling in either of my index fingers. I'm not exaggerating in the least. http://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82 Something like that is what I mean.

I'm thinking it will hold up very well, there's one spot I need to redo. It's where they put the wheel weights on the outside of the rim. One of the wheels didn't take to it well so it peeled a tiny bit. Just going to cut the section out and spray it again, it's only about an inch long.

A friend plasti dipped his motocross rims, apparently sprayed it right over dirt and everything, his has been on there for 3-4 years now and he says it still looks great. So take from that what you will, but it should last a long time if you do it well. Even if you have to touch a few things up after a year, it's cheap and easy to do!

u/munr · 1 pointr/plastidip

> Most importantly you should invest in a spray handle because your hand is going to get tired without one and you risk bad coats.

Can't recommend this highly enough. Just dipped my rims this past weekend, and two days later, my finger is still completely numb from spraying all that plastidip.

Planning to redip at least one of the rims (probably two), and ordered this sprayer from Amazon for the next time (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EQEE82/), after my hands have recovered!

u/jak13h · 1 pointr/ft86

No glossifer, just 6 cans of color. One can per wheel, and 2 for mudflaps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E975LQ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Though I did purchase the spray gun, and I highly recommend that. It worked amazingly well!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQEE82?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/AroseRisen · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm thinking a white marble would look fantastic with those color choices. It would really make the wall color pop and match the cabinets splendidly, as well as contrast with the flooring! I know white marble can be pretty expensive, so I recommend using white marble contact paper. You can look in the product reviews to see how beautiful it turns out looking!

You bought a house!

u/HonestAmIU · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

A marble sticker could look decent, it's basically a thin film that you can stick over it that looks like marble, kind of like this just get it in a more suitable colour - https://www.amazon.co.uk/d-c-fix%C2%AE-Sticky-Plastic-adhesive-346-0306/dp/B00504QXM0

Or buy a fake fireplace and screw it onto the board if it'll hold it, the surround looks decent so I wouldn't get rid of that just hide the plywood

u/NotNeverSo · 1 pointr/ender5plus

All prints are straight off the print bed. I hate sanding so I've worked really hard to get the printer dialed in. And when the printer isn't as dialed in as I'd like, I have found a wonderful putty that will fill gaps, holes and even join two parts of a print together ... it's Perfect Plastic Putty ( https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1DRCN7LC5IRMS&keywords=perfect+putty&qid=1573437609&sprefix=perfect+putty%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-2 ). It's great stuff! Unfortunately I don't get a share of the profits but I'm impressed with it enough to recommend it anyway!

u/streamweasel · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I was just turned on to Perfect Plastic Putty https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BKVSJG1RNAQO
Sounds like exactly what you need.

u/montybug · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Perfect Plastic Putty made by DELUXE MATERIALS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK

u/qmracer01 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Well there is this or this if that isn't enough there is asia old man or "smiling" Asian teen

u/Archavious · 1 pointr/preppers

This would be a great addition to your bag, I got mine to go with the n95s.

u/jpmerz · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I would definitely give these a shot. Modifying your breathing is easier said than done in my experience. Just ordered these:

3M Virtua CCS Protective Eyewear 11872-00000-20, Foam Gasket, Anti Fog Lens, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEXKR4C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xpFAub16NMKJQ

u/lonewolf13313 · 1 pointr/Skookum

Got a pair of these and love them. Then again I wear mine to protect from blood and spit mostly.

u/Cleftex · 1 pointr/nevertellmetheodds

Yes

3M Virtua Ccs Protective Eyewear 11872-00000-20 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AEXKR4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fD-3DbNEGZE1X

u/ZZZ_123 · 1 pointr/Tools

Another posted pointed these out as super comfy and light. Hopefully they'll get me into the habit easier.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEXKR4C

u/tigermaple · 1 pointr/turning

I hear you, I've still got some furniture ideas that I'm sure I'll get back to eventually but for now, I just love turning so much that it's all I want to do when I go to the shop.

I thought of a serious answer to your question though and that is - I never look in the trash can while throwing stuff away now and I always leave my safety glasses on until after clean up is all done. (Got some dust lodged in my eye one time during clean up). I also upgraded all my safety glasses to these that have a rubber gasket around the outside

u/JD6VI · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

To all the makers out there buying this "Turbo Glow" material from another supplier thus resulting in what I think is an inflated price. Now I could be wrong but all this stuff is, is a mixture of a glow powder

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0DQXD4/ref=twister_B01K0DQTM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

and some type of or something similar to a clear epoxy resin

(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=AWNIMR5FR1N5J&psc=1)

placed into a block mold allowed to harden then cut into sections. The brittle nature of this material is probably dependent on how much powder is used. The more you use the brighter and more brittle it will be.

Now this is just my theory on "Turbo Glow" again I could be wrong. In any case I intend to use this method for future projects of mine, take it or leave it.

u/opensaysme79 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I think you can get some epoxy resin to skim the top.

EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 1 Gallon Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ed4bBb2D7YJGZ

u/muddy700s · 1 pointr/DIY

What if you embedded the flowers in epoxy resin similar to this countertop

u/Beasticorn · 0 pointsr/TwinCities

Do you have one of those telescoping jobbers? I'm also short and the telescoping variety was a game changer for me.

u/daggerdragon · -1 pointsr/Rochester

> FWIW, I was born and raised in Rochester, learned to drive literally in the snow, and have never had snows, always all seasons. The most important things are knowing the limits of your car and yourself, keeping an appropriate speed, and being able to correct if things start to go south.

Don't listen to this poster. You can know the limits of your car and yourself, trundle along at 5 MPH, and generally do everything perfectly, but none of this will help when some other idiot careens into you going 30 MPH in foot-deep snow on all-seasons because "they literally learned how to drive in the snow!"

GET THE SNOW TIRES


My snow-driving anxiety levels went down by orders of magnitude when I bought my Jeep Patriot (with 4x4, naturally) and Blizzak snow tires to put on them. I literally went from being a nervous wreck whenever a snowflake appeared in the sky to "Meh, better text my boss and tell him I'll be a little late to work because it's snowing again. Hm, do I want to play it safe and take the thruway or have some fun on the back roads..."

GET THE SNOW TIRES


edit: And if you've got a truck or SUV, for the love of FSM, invest in a telescoping rotating snow brush (example) to clear the snow off the top of the vehicle (as required by law, but also because you don't want to cause an accident for the people behind you who suddenly get whiteout'd from the snow billowing off the top of your car).