Best water pumnps, parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 373 Reddit comments discussing the best water pumnps, parts & accessories. We ranked the 147 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 373 Reddit comments discussing the best water pumnps, parts & accessories. We ranked the 147 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
This fits on the tub nicely, and you don't have to worry about purchasing extra bottles, or a messy transfer.
Here's a pump top on Amazon you screw on the Cerave tub.
Hot Water Recirculation Pump
It's worth it.
You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.
I would buy a new Zoller pump if I were you. A 1/3 HP pump (you would need to confirm the existing pump size) is $160 on amazon . Zoller is a better brand than the product you posted.
Installation involves loosening some fittings, and threading in a new discharge pipe. Pretty simple job.
It's not just about recycling, though. The three Rs are in order: Reduce, reuse, recycle! Recycling is important but it's way better to not make waste in the first place.
Another idea might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2Y8Q
They go on top of those big multi-gallon jugs that you can either refill with tap or your local grocery store might have a filtered water refill station.
Or just get a standard tank and one of these:
Watts 500800 Instant Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer, Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kdwDbZR6E70C
Works quite well for me. I set it up to a smart home plug so it is only running when someone is home.
I bought one of these for my CeraVe Cream and it fits perfectly! Highly recommended!
Alternatively, you can get yourself a lid pump for your tub! Never have to open your tub again after the one time, and then you can just switch to the next one without much fuss or contamination.
I bought this pump for my Cerave jar so I don't have to stick my fingers in off of Amazon.
Well, there are a number of 16 oz jar lid pumps on Amazon. I just ordered this one to see if it fits the CeraVe jar. if it does, I'll report back. If not, I'll probably scavenge the pump, drill a hole in the CeraVe jar lid and stick it in there anyway. But it would be nice if it actually fit without having to do that!
Since my boyfriend has now discovered my jar and has started using it (how does he manage to always find my stuff?) I now have concerns about its hygiene.
You guys need a hot water recirculating system. Easy to install and not too expensive.
You got city water???? Water powered backup pump!!!!!
Example https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0013H94MO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519349285&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=water+powered+sump+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=31fEc3IpodL&ref=plSrch
Some use like 1 gallon of water to push 2 gallons out.
I have a battery back up one. This is my next purchase. Batteries can fail or die. Your city water will always be on.
However for the sewage I wouldn't use your below grade pumping during an outage.
We've been camping with our daughter since she was one. The only "toys" we take are a sand bucket, a toy shovel, a ball and bubbles.
We try to arrive early so we can pick a good campsite. We try to find one where we can use our car as a barricade between our campsite and the road, and one that also has open space behind the designated "campsite". Here are a few pictures of what I mean.
In this picture you can see I kind of parallel parked instead of pulling straight in, lined up with the road, so there is a very obvious line. "Don't go past the car.". (For clarification, the kiddo is in the tent with Dad, and I stepped into the "open area" for a second just to capture this picture. No fires left unattended. Promise.).
When we first took her camping we held her hand close enough to feel the warmth, and told her "This is hot, and you should not touch it. If you do it will hurt.". She helps me cook and is familiar with hot food and the hot stove/oven, so she understand pretty quickly. We also emphasize not running near the fireplace, and that rule seems to have stuck well with her.
In this picture you can see the benefits of the bucket/shovel combo. Our site was actually slanted and a lot of rocks had gone outside of the timber bounds, so we had her hauling rocks back into the campsite the whole time. Leave things better than you found them, eh? She added sticks and called it a tree house. I used the sticks as kindling that night. You can also see why I picked this spot - look at that open play area behind our campsite!
We use a toddler cot for our daughter, and have since she was very young (she's three now). My last suggestions are to have a flashlight just for them, and if they are past the "everything is food" phase, bring glow bracelets. We put one on each limb after dark so that she is easier to see.
We checked out library books about camping before going, and watched a Barney episode about it. That seemed to help, as she knew what to expect and was excited about it.
Plan food, but have a back-up method. It's pretty miserable when you plan on roasting hotdogs, but it's raining and it's taking longer than expected to start the fire and your toddler is pitching a fit. We always take granola bars, those pre-made PB&J frozen sandwiches, and a little stove set up - just in case the fire doesn't work out.
This next bit is not necessary, but it really nice for multiple night stays: We have this 5-gallon jug hand-pump. We take an empty bottle, fill it with potable water at the site, then use it for everything from drinking to hand washing and cooking. Kids are messy and this set-up makes camping a lot more enjoyable for us.
Lastly: commit, but don't over commit. Never get to the point where you are sacrificing sanity for the sake of "fun", and don't spoil the fun for others. During the learning-period we did have to bail once, as it was just becoming too miserable for any one to enjoy.
Good luck, have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. :)
I have 3500W recommended by my electrician that should run my gas furnace via a transfer switch, sump, fridge, and a light or two, just not all simultaneously.
For generators, few things:
I also grabbed one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LRUDUU
The photos in one of the top reviews speak for itself.
You may also consider a drill pump, it's literally a little pump you attach to a hand drill and has a hose input and output.
There are multiple reasons why a house would have a pump in the basement.
A sump pump is an open topped, clearwater device used generally for removing rainwater or groundwater from a basement.
An ejector pump is an entirely different device that is sealed, vented, incorporated into the plumbing system, and used for removing below-grade wastewater from a basement.
A sump pump gives you a lot of options as to the how and where, and the plumbing code does not really refer to how you manage water on your property if you're not tying into the plumbing system. Personally, I don't like to see emergency sump pumps discharging into a sewer, as a back-up could cause a flood in the basement, and a clogged (or flooded) line can prevent the pump from removing water when needed.
I prefer to see a sump pump leading to a water retention device such as a dry-well, cistern or leaching ring, so long as the device is not itself prone to flooding. Another option would be leading the discharge end to an actual down-hill area that can reliably accept the discharge.
Don't assume that the presence of a pump is an indicator of a bad situation. I don't like having floor drains that lead to the sewer system in finished basements, and usually try to outfit mechanical rooms (with RPZ's, boilers, water heaters and AC units that are prone to water discharge) with pumps and water alarms rather than floor drains.
Finally, if you're prone to power outages that would render an emergency pump inoperable, consider a water-powered pump like:
https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
This pump has some warnings to consider with it. If you have an electric well pump supplying your domestic water pressure, a power outage would knock that out as well and render the device inoperable. This device wastes a tremendous amount of water and is frankly the last option to employ for that reason. The device has the potential to introduce a high degree of hazard to a plumbing system; an RPZ must be installed on the water service to the home (to protect the municipal water supply) and I would want either an RPZ or a double check valve assembly with an intermediate atmospheric vent at the device to protect the occupants of the home from poisoning. These devices are known to generate an intense water hammer when closing and would require a piped in water hammer arrestor upstream of the device. Finally, don't forget to leave this device in an accessible area.
I personally believe that all basements are giant bathtubs just waiting to be filled. Make sure that your tub has a drain :-)
This is exactly what a sump pump is suppose to do. This will happen when it rains and probably a few days after as all the water that has soaked into the ground makes its way to the sump pump. As a back up you may want to look into either a battery backup pump or a water activated one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
i use a recirculating sump pump to recirculate cold water thru a pre-chiller and then into my chiller. it works well. granted, I make 12 gallon batches, so this may be overkill for 5 gallons...
Also, I'll make huge chunks of ice a few days prior to keep my water cold. I'll then fill up a rubbermade bin and put my water, ice and pump in that.
i use this pump
If this is just a temporary situation, I get the feeling that it is, you can try to attach a hose to the shower/faucet to fill up whatever tub you come up with and then use a "sump pump" to drain it into the shower drain (https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-Thermoplastic-Submersible-91250/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519395090&sr=8-3&keywords=submersible+pump)
Edit: Also a shower seat may be the safest option (https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Bathroom-Swivel-Locking-Mechanism/dp/B01NAND3IR/ref=sr_1_15_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1519395407&sr=8-15&keywords=bath+edge+seat)
I bought something like this for my Cetaphil tub. If my mom ever did that i would very very nicely tell her she could keep the lotion and then buy myself a new one and keep it in my room.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005N9BHQY
I have an unusual setup that requires a bit of explanation.
Before I started using supersoil I used that Bluelab pH controller to maintain a 6.5 pH in the reservoir automatically. Now it's just an overpriced pH monitor.
Since the reservoir is tucked into that corner with a shelf above it, determining the water level was a challenge. The PVC pipe on the right has a right angle that goes down into the res about 3 inches. I blow into that pipe periodically when filling the res and once it bubbles I know it is full. If someone has a better idea I'd love to hear it.
Also, you'll see a pump on top of the res that's for aeration. It feeds an 8inch air stone at the bottom of the res.
The 3rd water line coming from the res on the right going into that cup is just to test the water if needed when the tent is in flower and can't be opened.
The 10gal bucket on the left is for hand feeding with a submersible pump, I hardly need to use that anymore either with this new supersoil setup. (edit: this is unrelated to blumats but thought it needed an explanation)
Those robobrews are super popular. I have a Mash and Boil, and I know a few people who own a Grainfather.
Or you could buy an induction heater and use equipment you already have. There's no wrong answer. Also, I got this pump for cheap and it works great for recirculating the mash or moving wort to a fermenter.
Plumber here, buy [this pump] (http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936374&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+sump+pump) . They are very tough and last a long time. If your old on edoes not have a check valve, buy this one to go with your new sump pump.
I use a submersible utility pump similar to this one to pump water through my IC. Definitely has a much high flow rate than your standard pond pump.
If you have city water, a better and more reliable option is having a water powered backup sump pump. It requires no electricity and works by using the pressure in your water lines. I find this to be a better and more reliable option because battery backups have two main issues: sometimes the batteries go bad, happened to my father, he had a battery backup that hadn't been used in years, and when it was finally needed, the battery was dead and we were down there bailing out the basement using buckets. The other reason I recommend water powered backup sump is in the case of extended power outages. After the first fiasco, my dad installed the water powered backup sump, which was the best thing he could have done, because a year later we got hit with Hurricane Sandy and wound up without power for 2 weeks. A battery backup would not have lasted long enough to keep the sump running that long, but the water powered backup doesn't need any electricity, so it didn't matter, it kept the basement dry the whole time. They aren't that expensive, nor are they that difficult to install, the only requirement is that you are on city water and not a well.
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This is the one we have: https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Pumps-SJ10-Discharge-SumpJet/dp/B0013H94MO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537969458&sr=8-3&keywords=water+powered+sump+pump
Gotcha! I was thinking of something similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-99624-Universal-Discharge/dp/B005K0BX9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+1%2F2+flexible+hose&qid=1557685390&s=gateway&sr=8-3
What size tubing are you using?
Pump only, but they finally sell it with a pump now
You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.
Is there any way to tell is this pump is safe to recirculate wort and whirlpool? Temps seem fine, just don't want any issue with the plastic not being food safe
Currently my favorite topic! The system is entirely reusable and has NO LEAKS, which is incredible. It uses PEX 1/2" piping and "Sharkbite" fittings. The connectors are key: they snap on with no tool! They snap off with a simple tool. And no leaks. They're so perfect for the burn it's hard to believe.
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We bring the water cube empty, and have it filled. The fill is before the build is complete so I have to the footprint survey very correct, as you can't move that thing an inch once filled. The cube's output is PEX-ed to an on-demand pump, exactly like you'd find in an RV. The pump's output is passed through a two-stage filter (first year with the water cube (2015) people kept talking about the taste being weird), and then to a four-way splitter (or "manifold" in plumber-speak): kitchen sink, shower, personal water fill spigot, and misters.
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The misters were new last year and key for unloading extra water during breakdown. Overall my work-level on the water supply is way lower, and people are way more satisfied. I keep greywater levels in control by setting the pressure to the shower and sink fairly low.
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No leaks! I'm still blown away by how perfect the system is for our weird use.
I bought this pump on Amazon for my setup. Adding a hose shut-off valve allows me to adjust the flow of water.
Running full blast this will produce about the same about of water pressure as a garden hose on full blast, so it's really effective!
It paid for itself after the first use as grooming in my area is $80USD without the tip (and you should always tip your groomer if they do a good job).
This solves your problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Premier-Water-Recirculation/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412538958&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+water+circulation+pump
I installed one of these recirculating pumps a few years ago for the same reason.
It has a built in analog timer, but I just set it to always on and use a smart plug to handle the time schedule.
My personal suggestion to backups of backup sump pumps is a water powered one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
I mean, a generator is fine and all (and definitely get one!), but unless you get a full automatic switch over, it may not operate at a time when you're not there and still need the backup to the backup to function.
http://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
It uses the magic of siphon suction, water flow to pump. The catch is, its only for being a backup. Otherwise you will waste water like crazy. You would only want this if you had city water. If you live on well, and pressurize your own water source, it would not be a good solution.
What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.
These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN
Good point. It also looks like the cost of a utility pump that runs 1800 GPH costs less than the pond pumps that can push 600.
The longer the hose and chiller, the slower the water will go through. Those small pumps may work but as you can see by other people's comments, it can take up to 30 minutes or even more depending on water temp. In no way am I saying that is bad. It definitely works. If you want it quicker, get a pump like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That pump will chill quicker as it can push the water quicker through the chiller. Jaded recommends 6gpm coming out their chillers. 2gpm even with chilled water is really slow. Again, it may work but it will most likely be pretty slow chilling. $50 is a lot for a chilling pump but I also use it to clean my 3 taps all at once.
Just a thought
I haven't researched it yet. And since her daughter divorced me, I can't exactly call and ask :)
I'm pretty sure it's something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013H94MO
Though on this one I'd want professional installation. Get that one wrong and it could be very bad.
Since you seem to know what you're doing why not get a non pc specific pump? I know they make small submersible pumps for fish tanks that are very low volume/min and take up nearly no room.
here's a tiny one
Here's another tiny one
I am horrified for you! So gross!
I have one of these pumps that fits a CeraVe tub perfectly and because of things like that it is worth every penny.
I just bought this for my CeraVe tub! It's the perfect size for those jars.
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY/
This pump fits the cerave tubs lid.
Think it's this one.
I bought this one after seeing it recommended in a thread here and it fits the tub perfectly.
Schedule 40 PVC is safe as long as you don't let it get moldy.
With that said, I've looked at gravity sinks and it seems like the downsides outweigh the upsides. Water weight high up means the van will be more top heavy and any imbalance will be exaggerated. It also requires quite a bit of support to mount. Being permanent, it's harder to fill. If the van is at an angle, you might not be able to use it (I'm assuming you'll be using a long tube of PVC). It'll be sloshing around while you're driving.
If you're going for water with no electricity, maybe look at something like this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526855465&sr=8-4&keywords=5+gallon+hand+pump
Those are just my thoughts. I speak from reading and looking at them, I haven't used one in person.
looks like a berm of leaves around the edge of that lake. can you open up a channel to get the water to drain into the woods?
if you really want to pump it out you can do something like:
https://www.amazon.com/WWB-WaterBUG-Submersible-Multi-Flo-Technology/dp/B018LRUDUU/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1519656062&sr=8-18&keywords=trash+pump
I have one of these and it's great. I bought a pump like this one which did die on me eventually, but it's much easier to clean and replace since it's not inside the system
This is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_97jMDbBNW8ATX
Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.
If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.
If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.
My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
I went with this. Saw it mentioned a few times. Seems to be decent.
For mash circulation, you don't need much. On my small electric system (Mash and Boil) I use one of these.. That has a 2.1 GPM flow rate.
A step up would be the Anvil Pump at 3 GPM flow rate. It also has some added benefits like in line switch.
A further step up would be the MKII Pump with a 5 GPM max flow. I personally think this is the best performance for price (never having used it, and just reading specs).
I had the same thing and I extended mine anyway. I bought 6 feet of some heavy duty clear hose with the same I.D.
My drain is like 6 feet off the ground. I had to drain into a bucket and put a pump in the bucket. Its a self contained system My plumbing buddy set up.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-105-0001-Laundry-Package-Including/dp/B0009TCDZ2
This might be overkill for your needs but it works great for me.
don't think the washer will pump that high,you need a reservoir with a float controlled pump
https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-105-0001-Laundry-Package-Including/dp/B0009TCDZ2
Been in my new home for a little over a month with no washer/dryer (made sense to wait for black friday pricing). Water is in, 120v for washer is in, 240v for dryer is in. Utility sink is ready (not pictured). One last trip to home depot after work to get a breaker and elbow for vent and I will be up and running. https://i.imgur.com/ocpORPV.jpg
Granted, somewhat temporary setup as I need to install a pump under the utility sink the washer drains into. I just have a hose adapter on the utility sink to go into basement drain. I have the pump already ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009TCDZ2 ), just need to plumb it up and over to the main stack, might have the motivation to do that this weekend.
Part of the reason I didn't buy earlier was also because my water wasn't suitable for washing clothes (super high in iron). So the prerequisite for this was getting clean water. Now that I've got my new pressure tank and water filtration system running, it's time to tidy it up and actually run the electrical properly (cap is on pressure switch now). https://i.imgur.com/6a9miaj.jpg Planning on making a post showing all that once it's ready. Kinda conflicts with my need to run a half dozen loads of laundry, but hey, never-ending amount of cleanup to do in that room anyways.
I know what you mean about changing reservoirs! Do you have a water transfer pump to drain your system and replenish it? It makes a big difference vs trying to pour water, especially for your back.
This transfer pump is cheap and effective, but it is a tad slow and you'll have to replace it every so often.
I use this one when I need to move a lot of water, since it's much faster.
In practice, I end up using them both.
Pump and chiller we the best things to be added to our set up.
This is our pump https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-PC2-115-Volt-Portable-Transfer/dp/B000CPZTEK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482552424&sr=8-6&keywords=water+pump
This is our chiller http://www.homebrewing.org/Blichmann-Therminator_p_1282.html
We can transfer from boiling hot to ground temp a whole keggle in a matter of minutes. We can do 60-70 gallons in under 5 hours from first burner to pitching yeast and clean up.
This is what I use, but almost any transfer pump works. That one is particularly loud, so if I ever need another I will buy a different brand.
It empties half my 125 in less than 15 minutes. I adapted a vacuum tube to the inlet side with parts found at any hardware store. To fill I attach a hose to my shower head with another adapter. I'll post pics of the adapters if anyone is interested.
It's way faster than a python system and doesn't waste water. You can run the output directly to your lawn/garden. Garden hose attaches directly to the input/output. They're also self priming.
There are portable pumps for exactly what you're doing. Here's one in Amazon, but your hardware store will probably have something, too. Wayne VIP50 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Portable Electric Water Removal Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ6CU4/
I use this pump for tasks just like this. Comes with attachments for a garden hose and works like a dream as long as you don't have more than 10' of rise to your destination.
Every tank style hot water heater I have seen or heard of will heat the water, store it, and maintain a temperature. Getting cold water from a hot water line (for some short time) is usually indicative of just cooled water sitting in the pipe between the point of use and the tank.
I think something is wrong with your tank if you have to run the water for 20 minutes before getting hot water. Or perhaps the tank is very far from the shower?
But assuming a working hot water heater, I recommend something like this be installed under the closest sink to the shower. It will pull hot water and pump it into the cold water line. If you set it up correctly on the timer, it will keep the call for hot water set to an optimal time for you (20 min before you wake up). It should keep newly heated water in the hot water pipes between the sink and the tank during the time you set. So you shouldn't have to run the shower long to get hot water, just long enough to clear the cooled water between the sink and shower.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/
The downside is it could impact the water in the house for drinking. Because tanks can collect calcium and other minerals, there could be a higher density of this water in the cold water line put there by the recirculating pump. Just something to think about and research a bit.
If you want to go radical, run a hot water recirculator loop to the sink and back to the water heater. a la Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer This provides rapid hot water response. Then insulating the whole loop reduces energy loss.
A hot water recirculator might be a better option for you. I dont think anything like that exists, or at least I have never heard of one.
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built/dp/B000E78XHG
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hot-Water-Recirculating-System-with-Built-In-Timer-500800/100426993
Basically just cycles the water through to keep the hot warm
A couple hundred bucks plus install. Something like this. We have one and it is nice. The the shower heats up in seconds.
You need one of these. Easy to install and hot water FAST!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E78XHG?vs=1
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/m/video/0,,20260244,00.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GBUU7G?pc_redir=1397432871&robot_redir=1
I have another brand of one of these installed. It is a water powered backup. Saved me one time. Well worth it.
Hope the links work.
That flow sounds reasonable. I'd be conservative and aim for 10 gpm.
As far as pressure goes, the wand in the link looks designed to lower pressure, to give the soft flow you're talking about. Normally they are hooked to a city water supply at 30-40 psi, so they lower it by forcing it through hundreds of tiny holes. I'm not sure how the wand would behave at a low pressure (5-10psi) and its seems a bit wasteful to boost the pressure with pump to 40 psi, just to bring it back down.
Anywho, I'd guess 10ish psi might work (23 feet of lift). Since it's probably easier to just drop the pump into the trough, a submersible utility pump might do the trick. Something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398380781&sr=8-1&keywords=submersible+utility+pump). Might be nice to make sure a standard water hose can connect to it without many adapters.
Sorry draw this process out. Just wanted to make sure the shoe fits.
The NR-210A has no flow requirement according to Navien. The NR-210 model has a 0.5 gpm min flow rate. Which is the same as my Takagi.
Here's the pump I use for flushing my tankless once a year.
Some simple washing machine hoses will allow you to hook up to the clean out valves. Just dunk the pump in a 5 gallon bucket of white vinegar and run it through for about an hour with the tankless in off mode.
Buy a $50 submersible pump and hook a hose to it. Look at Amazon review photos to see the amount of water those things are capable of moving.
I use this is a cooler with ice to speed things up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A
I added one of those 3 prong adapter/switches too so I can turn it on and off without having to pull the cord out of the outlet too.
Or a water powered sump pump.
I have a water-powered backup that I have been really happy with. Link
Good call. This one's a bit cheaper, if you wire it yourself. Then OP could afford a roaster oven to and a circulator pump to use it with.
This looks about right:
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-99624-Universal-Discharge/dp/B005K0BX9C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503246933&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Flotec+FP0012-6U-P2
I got this one from amazon and it fit perfectly
Surgeon's Skin Secret Pump, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005N9BHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUKKAbG7N6KJD
> I just wish I could find a pump lid for the 12 oz CeraVe jars
They aren't that hard to find at container supply places but shipping is usually the deal breaker. Here's one from Amazon that could work.
Another option though, would be to use a smaller airless pump bottle for your moisturizer. Store the tub and just transfer into the bottle as you need it. Choose the size that would be most convenient for you.
I actually saw these lids on /r/skincareaddicition and these should work. I know they work with Cerave tubs. Besides that theres also these jars with a lid that could work, you'd just need to transfer your product into the tub.
My routine is not really indie. There is a lot of stuff about routines on /r/skincareaddiction btw.
Mine is like this:
Morning
Evening:
(0. if wearing makeup. Rub jojoba oil all over, and wipe off with damp microfiber cloth)
Here is a list of products:
http://www.amazon.com/Noble-Formula-Pyrithione-Zinc-Soap/dp/B004R3TBEC
http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES
http://www.amazon.com/Stridex-Strength-Medicated-Maximum-Count/dp/B000O1KP1O
http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Facial-Lotion-Ounce/dp/B003WN1ELQ
http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/collections/Skin-Balancing/_/Skin-Balancing-Oil-Reducing-Cleanser?ftlt=nonbranded&gclid=CL7nkp7kwMECFZBi7AodpFAALA
http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/Clear-Acne-Treatments/_/Clear-Regular-Strength-Daily-Skin-Clearing-Treatment/
http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Cream-16-Ounce/dp/B001V9SXXU
http://www.amazon.com/Surgeons-Skin-Secret-Pump-Ounce/dp/B005N9BHQY
http://store.acne.org/jojoba-oil
This one fits. I bought it specifically for that cowash.
this is the one I bought for CeraVe; it fits perfectly and might work for Cetaphil as well.
If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.
Thankfully I have not had a failure. knock on wood The handles have helped me to control the carboy when lifting, moving, and pouring from it. Also if it’s going to be for potable water, something like this will let you not have to always lift it.
Water Bottle Pump - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3unDbQZ3WX93
One thing I'm gonna do this year is buy a couple 5 gallon jugs of water and hang onto them for the season. So much easier than going out last minute for individual bottles which are usually the first to go. Even if you don't have an electric water dispenser, which I don't, you can buy a manual stand or a pump.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-gallon-Manual-Pump-for-Bottle-Water-Drinking-Water-Hand-Pump-Heavy-Duty-Drinking-Water-Pump/106855138
https://smile.amazon.com/Dispenser-Nonscrew-Stainless-Countertop-threaded/dp/B01N9YNUIG/
https://smile.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LRUDUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6wADb2JMQZWA
Best wishes
Short term: you can buy a pump like this this which will work on a floor and pump the water down to a very low level. Then you can wet vac the remaining water or mop it.
Long term: directing the water into the sump across the floor isn't the right solution - the water shouldn't be getting on your floor to begin with. It's best to control the water with drains along the perimeter of your footing/basement wall, and have those connected to your sump. That can be done either from the outside (excavating down to the footing & you should probably install a waterproofing membrane on the wall while you're at it) or from the inside (breaking the floor and installing a drain). Either won't be cheap. The inside solution will be "easier" to DIY but is still a lot of hard manual work.
Best of luck to you!
No this is a little brown pump.
They are cheap and fairly weak.
I would think a chugger should be perfectly capable, how big a hose do you have connected? It says its capable of 18.6ft of head pressure.
This is the pump I'm using.
The controller is a custom built BrewManiacEX controller. As mentioned in another comment, I plan on redesigning the PCB I'm using over the next few days, then do a full /r/DIY style build thread.
Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.
This is what I use. You have to prime this one manually. I Jerry rigged a switch to it for convenience. There are definitely nicer ones out there but it works great for us.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0
I’ve used this one with good results. It’s not a great transfer pump, but it’s perfect for cooling. I use it in an ice water bath to temp control my spike fermenter.
you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.
That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
not self priming but sure beats gravity
Yeah i found this which looks like a lot of people are using for recirc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or if i need a real chugger or something that can stand up to some grain mush. I think ill try it and see.
It's not as strong as the pricier pumps but it does just fine.
I even used one of these on a 5 gallon setup for a while and it was even able to do what I needed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here you go:
Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.
Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.
Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.
High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor
Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.
Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
I use these since they can run dry and create a lot of pressure so work great for a drip system (they are used to create artificial water pressure in RVs): http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Industrial-Pump-Model-2088-594-154/dp/B0001FAA5Y
You will need to use a sprinkler filter before the pump, as solid particles can damage the pump diaphragm.
I should mention you will see huge gains with a drip system over hand watering. I have it set for one minute every 2 hours and my plants have never looked healthier.
Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo
With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0
And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer
I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?
I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler
I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler
I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.
At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i
$80 for the pump on amazon, Foxx sells them for way more than they're worth. but you can get submersible ones for even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RMQ6B8R1O540&coliid=I3O2VQVIO4BUHA
Yes, I've added hot water to the keg before to help it dissolve. It helps, but still requires a fair bit of stirring.
I figured that I'd just add some pressure to the keg and bleed the pump outlet side in order to prime it.
I actually have one of these diaphragm pumps sitting around in the garage; I might try that.
Take with a grain of salt
I own a home with a basement/crawlspace drainage/underground spring situation. The sump pump I inherited with the house was always running at first. I installed a 4" pvc line that drains to the alley, plus added 6" gutters and downspout that is on the opposite end of the natural grade of the basement/crawlspace. Then installed This and everything is worry free now.
If it is just the washing machine, something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6_w.
If you have a utility tub and bathroom or wet bar, you would install something of the same concept, but larger.
To install it will require you to cut a hole in your basement floor
It's funny, I was originally looking at that exact pump on Amazon. It looks great and I like the price except it looks like it requires a vent to be tied into the vent stack. Is that correct?
I didn't want to have to run an extra pipe and cut into the vent stack. So I'm considering the Hartell because it specifically says it doesn't require the vent and I'm pretty sure it's the one installed in a This Old House video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009TCDZ2/
I'd get that one. It's a beast and they're very good about warranty service.
Tie into the shower line if you can. I would skip putting in a ball valve. If the check valve, on the wye, is going to be exposed, you can put in a clear one so you can see what's going on on case there is a problem later on.
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com is my go to place for cheap PVC fittings.
Utility pumps work well, but be aware that they only function when manually plugged in. Most don't even have on on/off switches. You might want to buy a 33 gallon garbage can to temporarily hold the water. Since all you want to do is to move water 10 feet vertically, and there isn't a lot of water that you need to move, the one you selected will probably work. I have this model
If you want to automate the waste water disposal, get a sump pump as /u/potatopasted suggests.
Assuming you mean increasing the volume of water coming from the faucet, then yes. The reason that you'll get cold water from your hot tap for a while is that the water heater is usually pretty far away from the sink. Even if the pipe between the two is well insulated, if you don't use the tap for a while the water sitting in it will cool down. By opening the faucet more, you're moving the old water out of the pipe faster and getting hot water from the heater faster.
If you have to wait a long time for this to happen, you're letting a lot of water go to waste. This can be solved by getting a circulator pump. When installed it pumps water from the sink end of your piping through a return line and back into the system right before the heater. This moves hot water from the heater up to the sink without wasting any.
On the other side, getting colder water would most likely be moving room temp water out of the pipes and getting to water that was sitting in your well or underground piping from the city.
Edit: I should write faster.
Edit Edit: This is one of the pumps I mentioned.
I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.
The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.
It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?
You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.
Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
Yep, completely agree. You can't fix this kind of thing by hacking it. You need to get to the root of the problem and fix THAT. First thing to do is to run a garden hose down into the basement and fill up that sump pit. The pump should kick on well before you get close to the top -- maybe a little over half way. It should take only a few seconds for the pit to evacuate -- 15ish seconds.
If it's taking a long time (more than 20 or 30 seconds), then the motor is about shot, or it was too small in the first place. If the drain distance is fairly long (more than 30 feet), it's quite likely that the sump motor was too small, because people often don't realize that you need higher horsepower for long drains, especially if the vertical pipe is long. Honestly, I just install 3/4 horsepower and don't screw around. You're talking about a price difference of maybe $60, and it protects stuff that's worth a lot more than $60, so why fool around?
If it doesn't come on until the water is very high (like almost out of the pit), then the sensor is probably going bad and might intermittently fail.
Finally, if the power in the area is dicey (like if the power goes out any time there's a little rain), then you might need a battery back-up sump pump, or better yet, one of these.
there are also backup pump setups that run off a water main like this
A friend of mine bought a house with an electric one like you have and one of these as a backup.
Yes. Thanks for the recommendation. I'm not sure if it would be a viable solution for me as it states 12.5 gallons a minute. But, it is still a good fail safe in the event we lose power and don't have a river of water to compete with. Link for the model I just looked at.
My zoeller sump pumps move 72 gallons/minute each assuming a 5 foot up-pipe. My pipes are probably closer to 8 or 9 feet. I'm guessing I move about 120 gallons per minute during the worst storm.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5PYR2
The clear plastic tube that is zip tied to it is from the condensation pump for my HVAC unit.
You recommend Zoeller but is it better to get a sewage pump over a standard pump?
For a sewage pump, I was looking at this one but I don't know if a 1/3HP is a enough to push water up 8-9ft from the basin to outside the house.
yes
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310131&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+m53
or
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-507-0008-Pre-assembled-Battery-Backup/dp/B002N6VHXI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310188&sr=8-8&keywords=zoeller
Thanks for the heads up I didn't bother to think about a sump pump on amazon now I am leaning to using this one with the same cip ball you mentioned.
A cheaper way would be a $1 10-gallon plastic tote with a submersible utility pump such as https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B000X05G1A/
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=asc_df_B000X05G1A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167157107032&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4503259070638399636&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022866&hvtargid=pla-309607072756&psc=1
This is the pump that I have and I want to make sure that it is acceptable and safe to use. Any advice on this topic will be very appreciated.
This one http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418884163&sr=8-1
They'll just take some of the pumps from off the shelf. It'll be fine..
https://smile.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-Thermoplastic-Submersible-91250/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520462859&sr=1-4&keywords=sump+pump
that grey water pump is excellent for a house, i just need a washing machine output used 2 x a week 1 adult+ 1 child in the house. bilge pumps look possible, and i lie the 12vdc power , the other sump/dirty water pumps are 110 vac, like this, $50 dirty water pump but they hook up to garden and hoses much easier
Well I just put hot tap water and pbw @ 114F through it instead of my usual 150F. Still pumping...
edit: I should add for google result purposes. I had this pump laying around from another hobby. It is barely powerful enough to do one tap at a time, I wouldn't try and chain multiple taps together with it. I have the pump in a gallon of solution on the bar top. It is pumping the solution into the chest freezer, out the tap, and back into the solution. So only like 5ft of tubing with maybe 2ft elevation. When this pump dies, I'll probably get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453738482&sr=8-3&keywords=submersible+pump
It is much more powerful and atleast it's rated to 120F. The ecoplus doesn't have a max temp rating, but the similar pumps at harbor freight say max 77F. So I'm guessing this ecoplus pump is not going to have a very long life span.
We bought this pump to drain our tub: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/
I haven't tried draining it with just gravity, but I'm sure it would take at least twice as long. When the pump runs out of water I open the drain valve and maybe two cups of water dribble out.
I got this one awhile back and have been very happy with it. recirculate into a large batch of ice water once running with ground water to cool it down initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We used this one and a spare set of washing machine hoses - it was super easy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got something like this that I used to throw in a sink full of ice water (about 40 pounds, plus enough water to partially submerge the pump). It had no issue shooting through a 50 foot 3/8" SS chiller for recirculation. Benefit is you aren't tethered to any particular area for chilling, and it saves water. 40 pounds of ice is, like, $5, and gets you to pitching temps in under 10 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS/ref=twister_B00MYTZO0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Been happy with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
What's your boiler wattage? I'm running 2.5 gpm with 85 degree water source on a 5.5 kW burner and haven't had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.
​
I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.
​
The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?
​
I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.
Fyi this is not the one I ended up with, I can't find the one I got. But this one is very highly rated. In any event, do your research for the one that's best for you. I actually hired a plumber to do the job through Amazon installation. It was.... ok.
Liberty Pumps SJ10 1-1/2-Inch Discharge SumpJet Water Powered Back-Up Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013H94MO
Dammit, I closed the wrong window and have to retype this.
I wouldn't use a float since mechanical stuff like that has trouble, especially if your water is hard. I'd use a resistance sensor, and if it's over a megaohm or so, shut down. As long as you don't use distilled and deionized water, it should work fine.
High temp pumps are expensive (although low temp pumps are cheap, they won't handle 80C). It'd be much cheaper to mount a small motor to spin a paddle in a housing. I do have a bookmark of this guy, which might work though.
I was looking at this site to get an electronic thermometer. I think they have I^(2)C sensors, but haven't looked lately. Sparkfun has a cheap one but that loses accuracy higher than 85C, which might be fine. Generally, within 1F is good enough. I'm just pulling some bookmarks and going off memory....
Heres a good pump http://www.amazon.com/temperature-15GPH-Water-Pump-grade/dp/B004HHW0FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341652283&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+pump
For drains the convoluted hose made for sump pump outputs works awesome. The ridges keep the noise down because the water isn’t just splashing down a tube, and it’s flexible and cheap. Fits right over a 1.5” outlet iirc, but you might want to take the fitting to Lowe’s to make sure that’s accurate. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K0BX9C/
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY
I dont recall there being a seal, but i suggest getting this pump to keep your tub a little more sanitary. ;)
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY
related:
will this pump fit this cetaphil tub? everything I could find only mentioned the cerave in the tub.
I haven't heard much about it around here... On the packaging note though you can buy tops with pumps that might fit the Noxzema container (I have this one for the Cerave tub) so that might be useful to you!
This lid is what I bought and it fits on my CeraVe in the tub!
This is the one from the main post.
They got different ingredients (and probably different concentrations) and the one in the tub is thicker. The one in the tub has Petrolatum while the regular lotion has Polysorbate 20 and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. I use mostly the one in the tub for my face.
I bought a pump action lid for the CeraVe in the tub moisturizer because I also prefer the pump action. Here the one that I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N9BHQY
Here's the link to the other post, and here's the one I ended up getting on Amazon. Unfortunately, it's sold out right now, just like all the others.
Adding on another sump pump question... Is Wayne a decent brand. Looking to purchase the WSS30V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070HY5CA/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_SU-uzbRV25A1P
purchased a house with a finished basement but the sump pump has no backup or battery
It's killer peace of mind. Power outage, you're covered. Pump failure, you're covered. I have this one and it's worth its weight is gold because of that redundancy. My sump pump runs frequently in the spring and regularly enough all summer for it to be very bad if it failed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070HY5CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fLWUAbDHHRY9S
I replaced it with this (got it from Amazon). The new pump runs every so often but I haven't really heard or noticed it. I guess I was more annoyed with the sound of it going off every minute with the old one.
The kit said they are preinstalled. This backup combo kit came as one unit and the manual says there’s a check valve in each. See here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070HY5CA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q
This gizmoid. I use bottled water at home (skunky well water) so we thought there’s got to be a way to be able to have that convenience at a campsite!
Here's an actual serious list of things I got and LOVED and what I'm getting next time:
Also, what's coming your way seems more like Ike than Harvey. If I was looking at that I'd get
Plenty of folks use a little DC pump. I've got one that runs my RIMS machine. It's not specifically certified for food contact, but it's all polypropylene and polyphenylene. Both of which are pretty much inert below 150C.
I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.
I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.
They sell 12v "brew" pumps on aamazon...supposed to be food safe but its all straight from china so who knows. Yoosan was the brand i bought...i use a chugger to circulate mash but i heard people use these so i bought one for shits and giggles. Can run 24v if you have an old computer power supply...really moves liquid too...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196WL55G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481382839&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=12+pump+food+grade&dpPl=1&dpID=41UOH0yLNPL&ref=plSrch
I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ
Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.
Would you recommend something like this instead?
Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5
I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.
Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.
Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this
If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.
Sure!
hot water pump pump
800w souse-vide it seems the price went up on this one, maybe shop around for a cheaper 800W unit (I paid $55)
Eh, I bought this pump, and it gets the job done just fine.
Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.
Thanks!
Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVwOCbSW5RF0F
We have a sump and we bought something similar for power outages.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1PTZTHYRQJ1CT&psc=1
If you read the reviews, it looks like many people have used this pump as a washing machine pump.
What exactly is this pumping out? Is there a french drain under your basement? Just trying to confirm this isn't an ejector pump.
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EDIT:
This seems like an easy DIY and had good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-ESP25-Upgraded-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sump+pump+battery+backup&qid=1567991829&s=gateway&sr=8-4