Hey! Amazon sells them so you can fuck your own nuts in the privacy of home.

Be careful: they are certainly less appealing than quick releases or even hex nuts, but they can be unscrewed really easily with one of these. A couple years ago Pinhead started including brackets with the setup that make that method impossible, though. You can get the brackets sent to you from Pinhead if you have older ones.

Mine are Stanley brand from Amazon, and Sears sells a Craftsman model that appears to be similar. Obviously these are both US sellers but I'd think they're also available in Europe either under one of those brands or another.

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!

​

When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

• 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  
• Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  
• Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  
• Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  
• Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  
• Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  
• Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  
• Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  
• Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  
• Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  
• My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  
• JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  
• Jack to actually get your car up.
  
• Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  
• PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  
• OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.
  
  And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.
  
  ​
  
  I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.
  
  ​
  
  To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

Apparantly... a gator grip makes pretty short work of most locking wheen nuts according to me mate who works at a garage in hartlepool... they have to deal with people who didnt leave the socket in the car for the garage.

I would suggest investing in a wheeler FAT wrench so you know you are not over torquing your bolts. I have never broken any torx keys with using loctite.

Edit: Wheeler

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

Hex bit socket like this

Amazon

But you can't have it.
See the name on it?
It says it's mine!
So please mail it to me after you purchase.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

Congratulations!

• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

I'm not knocking the goal, all goals are ultimately arbitrary. What I'm saying is you should not put your goal on a pedestal. If you want to shoot at 1k, get your dope and scope and go shoot at 1k now. Shorter distances are good for practice when you can't get to the big range. Your goal of a ~1moa cold-bore shot is entirely reachable and will mostly depend on your wind-reading and reloading skills.

If you want, you can install your new optic yourself with a set of $10 levels and a $50 wrench. It's not rocket surgery.

Personally, I think break-in has a bigger effect on velocity than accuracy. I've never noticed any velocity effects but some other people have reported faster velocities after a few hundred rounds.

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

I use TEKTON torque wrenches for everything, and have had 0 problems they work very well and are extremely cheap for the quality. You can get them on amazon here's the 3/8's one I use http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457543167&sr=1-2&keywords=torque+wrench

This Tekton is in the range of what you're trying to torque to and will do most jobbies on a bike. A little bit of blue locktite on the caliper mounting bolts for added insurance if you're really concerned.

I got a few craftsman tools recently and while I bet they are overall "fine" I've been pretty disappointed with a few of them. I would also look to gearwrench, a bit higher quality and the price isn't much worse.

I'd buy this (1/4 and 3/8th sets) - $109

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-80550F.html

Half inch impacts and ratchet - $130

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-84949N.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTEXPNU/ref=twister_B0154R8KHI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wrenches, long pattern full polish and a free knife. - $118

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-81900KF.html

Ratcheting wrenches - $50

http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-20pc-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-mm/p-00935720000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=20&blockNo=20&blockType=G20

Screwdrivers - $28

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-17-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931794000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Hex keys - 18 dollars

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25282/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502574535&sr=1-3&keywords=hex+keys

Half inch extensions - 25 dollars

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81300-Piece-2-Inch-Extension/dp/B000NI93M0/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NI93M0&pd_rd_r=XREV1D7B7335G71T6D92&pd_rd_w=JLtGU&pd_rd_wg=3k6AP&psc=1&refRID=XREV1D7B7335G71T6D92

Total of 475 dollars, most of that ships free if you have prime, the rest from coastal tool supply ships for 8.95 flat rate or something. You could buy nut drivers or hex headed sockets with the rest of the money. Should be similar amount of useful tools, but much better ratchets. You could cut down the screwdriver set if you wanted and add stubby wrenches or something else. Again, that craftsman set would probably be fine, but I hate those ratchets and don't have any need for ignition wrenches and that extra stuff.

I have the Tekton 1/4in 20-200 in/lb wrench, I have not had any issues with it. I also have the 10-150ft/lb wrench, but that's pretty much just for the car.

It's not a premium tool, but it works well, and I find them to be a good value for the price. I paid $30 for the torque wrench.

Also remember when you store torque wrenches to set them to 0. That way you remove the load from the ratchet mechanism while it sits around.

I did break one of their box wrenches before, it was 100% my fault. They sent me a new one for free no questions asked.

• Silcock key
  
  • Most businesses and buildings have a water access on the outside of the building that uses a silcock key instead of a typical hose with a hand valve.

> Get yourself a prybar (Like This but better ).

If one really felt the need for a prybar, I'd go with a proper breaching tool like any of these

• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O
  
  At 8lbs and change though it's not something you just want to be toting around in your bag.
  
  A sillcock key (you've seen what these are used on if you've ever got bored in a drive-thru line) might be handy too as a last resort for water /u/Practical_Citizen
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVMEM/

Tamper-Proof Torx, Tamper-Star, Tamper-Torx, I've heard them called all sorts of things. Lots of bits available for this sort of fastener now...

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413995910&sr=8-2&keywords=tamper+torx

" If I wanted an accursed 10/22, would it be better to start with a receiver rather than a rifle? "

Depends on how difficult your DM wants to make it to remove the curse. Is it the backbone of their campaign, or is it a hilarious rolling a 1 on your Dex save?

It only does 1d6 damage, but there's 25 rounds in that magazine.

Cheapest way to get some accurizing, buy a +1 Torque screwdriver for 41silver from the Amazonians, it will last you a lifetime of gun ownership. Also, throw out your barrel band, it's decorative and does harm accuracy if it touches the barrel.

​

Seriously though, the receiver, bolt, and frankly MANY other parts do nothing to improve the accuracy of the gun.

Accuracy is many factors, but the biggest lens to view parts with is about "consistency".

Bad scope the doesn't hold zero. Loose rings. Loose rail. Loose barrel. Loose attachment to stock all would obviously harm accuracy.

Ammo: number one is the primer. The better the primer, the better the ammo can be. Eley is famous for primer. Powder load consistency, lead consistency and eccentricity, all of which result is a chonometer measurement that's as tight a bell-curve as possible.

Adjustable Objective scopes let you remove parallax at varying ranges, Simmons 22 Mag AO is a cheap, GREAT for the money scope for Appleseed events. No parallax, consistent aim.

Cheek riser: consistency.

Trigger: You can shoot a 5 lb trigger accurately, it's just harder to pull, easier to engage flinchy muscles like your deltoids and upper arm.

Shorter chamber lets the bullet engage the lands and grooves sooner. Consistency.

11 degree match crown disturbs the bullet less.

Glass bed prevents rattling around in the stock. Consistency.

Just speaking from experience man, was having so many issues with my AK scope until I saw someone on here recommend it, no issues since.

This is the one I picked up https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seemed to work well enough.

You can buy a beam style torque wrench for less than $20 so that in the future you can torque away confident that you're not grossly exceeding or undershooting the correct torque value: https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8SE6HAEEYYSXHDKN6EJS

I was just looking at a 3piece craftsman prybar set at the store which was on sale for $30some odd dollars. It was down from $40something odd dollars.

Started looking online and ran into this 3 piece pry bar. Look familiar?

Same thing is going on with this tekton torque wrench i found its twin here

It isn't necessary, but torque wrenches are very useful and versatile tools for cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and guns.

Basically, if you like toys, get a torque wrench. They don't have to be expensive.

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

I like this one, as you end up with more stuff in the 10-150lb range than you do the 25-225 lb range.

Fair enough but because I wished to avoid doing actual work I googled the devices reviews and Mr/Ms queef is correct in the fact that this device does often easily break when presented with anything but light duty.

I accept your statement though that just because things have moving parts they aren't necessarily prone to breaking but doesn't moving parts increase the likelyhood of breaking?

Mine are the Stanley model; they work the same way but they have a lever that unlocks them like a pair of vise-grips. I think they're a little quicker/easier to use one-handed than the ones in the OP's picture, but the function should be the same.

Edit: here ya go.

Brand name Bondhus, this is an industrial quality brand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012Y38W?keywords=allen%20wrench%20set&qid=1456972911&ref_=sr_1_8&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-8

I would start with the basis of a get home bag, which should have you covered for basic first aid, food/snacks to sustain you for the duration needed to hoof it home, a water container and a means to acquire more water (speaking of which, you may find this device handy in an urban environment), and a way to remain comfortable in the elements (jacket, sunscreen, bug spray, etc).

As far as weapons are concerned, you might consider a fixed blade knife around 6 inches in length, some mace/pepper spray, or a collapsible baton (18-21" ought to cover it as far as concealment and effectiveness goes). Make sure you're up on the laws though, and be sure to train, train, train.

For urban I like a sillock key. Though a Leatherman can pseudo fill the role.

Before I start this list I am going to say none of these are affiliate links. I'm googling amazon to give OP ideas. None of these specific products that are recommended but it's a "WTF is that?" answer to some things I'm going to bring up.

I'm going to say a plunger is the first thing I buy for a new home (and learn to use it. The "innie flap" has a purpose.)

When it comes to tools that I think are common but by friends apparently don't own until things go wonky?

Wonderbar

A back up sump pump. (I've had to dig one out at 3 am during a power surge that fried my sump pump in the basement)

If there is no power - some way to manually remove the water. There are hand-cranked pumps available that I don't think people think about needing.

A refrigerator dolly. (Apparently it's called an appliance truck and you can find them for a LOT less than this)

Tarps. Just have 3 more
than you think you'd need. If a tree fell on your house and your "old lady neighbor 3 houses up" can you help? (I have a tarp issue. I will admit it. Once they start Tarp Hoarders Anonymous? I'll join)

A basic understanding of electricity and a labeled chart in your fuse box of what switches control what in the house. Let's pretend you're not home and there is some event that causes 2 foot of water in your basement. You need an idiot proof chart that says - TURN OFF THIS THIS AND THAT if Frosty has a meltdown near the dryer.

A clamp style volt meter. Becuase you never want to "think" a wire is not live and find out the hard way.

Tiny little screwdrivers that you think you'll never need unless you loose a nose pad off your glasses.

Spare garden hose that you're not attached to incase you need to use it reroute the run off from an ice dam or syphon out something crazy. (I call him the tribute hose... he just hangs out waiting for the day he's going to get cut up for parts)

Quikcrete. - Story time. My SO got annoyed at the siding on this little part of the house that stuck out about 14" and decided the day before an ice storm was the PERFECT time to redo the siding. That couldn't take more than an hour, right? NO! We found out that there wasn't a full wall behind the siding and about 2 hours before icepocalypse hit we were trying to find a way to pour a new footing for a structural support that apparently had never supported the structure. Long story short - sometimes you need stuff NOW and the hardware store is closed. fast drying concrete can be stored pretty much forever if you keep it away from humidity)

A come-along. Straighten out or pull what ever you want.

My shop vac is a popular item when things go wrong. I think that baby has spent more time in other people's houses than I have.

Vinegar. Lots of vinegar. It's hard for vinegar to go bad and too many people I know have had "OH - ICK" issues to not have several gallons on hand at a time. You can use it to kill a bunch of nastys. (and weeds if you decide having a pretty lawn is important)

A Bow. I consider this a tool. Some people think it's a weapon. I think it's a tool. You can take down supper or shoot a guideline up over the roof of a 2 story house if need be.

Chicken wire.

Ugh... I can't remember the name of this stuff - there is a tape that only sticks to itself. It's rubber. You can use it to seal leaks or fix your couch (I will circle back and see if I can rememeber what it's called if no one jumps in)

I think that's the list for the moment.

This will be an intersting post to follow. Thanks for making us think about things differently.

You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.

You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).

You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.

If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.

Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.

A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.

If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

Bruh, for $40-50, why don't you just buy a new one.

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

These are the ones I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073593001-Multicolor-Metric-Blacklaser/dp/B009ODV0OE

The color-coding is surprisingly useful.

They also have a stainless set that is specifically for stainless fasteners.

These Weras are, by far, the best hexes I have ever used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited to add: Are you on a carbon or aluminum frame? Sounds like you need fiber grip or something in there.

>Just go back with a hammer and big Crescent wrench, pound them in and crank them down

If you're looking for a combination nut-fucker/thumb-detector for your wrenching and hammering needs: https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

Don't be stupid. Get a decent torque wrench.

For $30, Amazon is your friend:

TEKTON 24330 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb./13.6-108.5 Nm)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HzgxzbAME8322

https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

or this: https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/WRENCH-MINERS-HAMMER-HEAD/_/R-RASRS12H
same as AvE

well there's this thing

I've heard Snap On and Bondhus(amazon link) make good stuff. Snap On will replace any tool that breaks, no question, and I don't really know anyone who doesn't love their Snap On tools. They seem trickier to buy online though, but you could check your local Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc. Bondhus seems to have good prices for still quality tools, and they're on Amazon. You could also try Craftsman, though I'm not sure if you have a Sears near you and if they'll even be in business too much longer.

If you're putting together furniture from a store, you'll probably want a set of allen keys around. I recommend Bondhus. Very solid tool for the price. I like the ball ends and prefer having them loose rather than swiss army knife style. There are better brands, but I don't think the added price is worth it for the home user.

I don't think wrenches are much use to most home users - especially if you have ratchets already. Might pick up some channel locks (or equivalent) and vice grips. Save some money and adds versatility.

Hammer, again for a home owner, doesn't make much difference. I'd probably suggest picking up one slightly smaller than you think you need. You'll likely be doing work that requires more precision that power in most cases.

Screwdrivers, it may be worth investing in a decent set. BUT if you (or somebody in your household) is prone to losing them or using them incorrectly (like as a pry bar or breaking up ice, etc), expensive screw drivers would be wasted on you. I'd start with a basic set you can get at the local big box (Kobalt is on deep discount at Lowes right now; Husky is a solid choice at HD; HF Pittsburgh will do most of what you ask of them) - all at a good price. Might also be worth picking up a cheap-y driver with interchangeable bits to keep in the junk drawer. Might just end up using that more than anything else.

Pliers, I don't think I would splurge on either. You will use them, but the difference between something high end vs entry level homeowner stuff will be lost on most folks. Not worth the extra money, in my opinion (and like screwdrivers, depending on who is using the tool, these are the second most likely thing to get destroyed being used incorrectly or lost). One other tool that might fit in this category are some wire strippers. I would spend a little extra money for a good pair. Lot of folks around here like Klein. Solid brand, solid tools. Little bit pricier. I have some Southwires which are a bit cheaper, but alot of guys get on for being made in China or inferior compared to Klein. I'm definitely not a pro, but I've not had any problems with them including wiring up a generator on 10/3 UF-B wire and doing a full electrical install in an office/shed.

TEKTON 5547 4-Ton Dual Gear Power Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPBHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQaGyb6K9N6GF

The Jeep KL is great!

https://streamable.com/660c3

But that case could be reworked.

Replace the shovel with this: heavy duty shovel

Leave one of those "tow only straps" in there and replace the other with 2 of these 2"x30' recovery strap or a 20' and a 30'

Add one or two of these: soft shackles

One of these in there too. 4-Ton come along

Move the flashlight and the knife into the jeep, seriously, that needs to be close to you to be helpful.

If you have any questions about offroad recovery please feel free to pm me.

Most importantly Enjoy the great outdoors!

The only suggestion I have is to buy a high quality extension in the shortest length you can and still reach the socket. Also, don't use your ratchet on this you may break it. You should be using a breaker bar

• EGW 20 MOA base ($54.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation.

Bit slip is most of the reason for rounded Allen (hex) wrenches.

I pretty much scrap using regular Allen wrenches for driver bits, and use an adapter for a 1/4” ratchet like this. Bonus is I can use my cordless Milwaukee ratchet and zip off a bottle holder or a seat really quick, or bolts for a rack, and your hand puts pressure on the bit to keep it seated in the bolt.

I usually have luck making a flat edge on a rounded bit with a bench grinder.

This took waaaay too long to measure, test and design but I think it was worth it! (although they still don't line up at the angle I wanted :( )

This is a Allen/Hex key holder made for one of these sets or it's equivalents.

Thingiverse Link

It's made to fit in the keyhole slots on this pegboard. Although the mounting brackets are only super-glued on so you can make your own mounting brackets if needed.

If you have any changes you think I should make, please let me know

And if you do print it, be sure to show me a pic please!

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

I just got a relatively nice 1/2" Tekton torque wrench for $37. They have a longer one that goes up to 250 ft-lb for $54. I'm not saying it's the best, but it's solidly middle-of-the-road and way better than HF.

Torque wrenches are precision equipment and should be treated as such. Don't apply more than 150 ft-lb in the reverse direction (i.e. dont use it as a breaker bar). For the models that have to be stored with the torque set at the lowest setting... make sure you do that.

Then why not do that?

Here you go $38

Here is a torque wrench

TEKTON 24340 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb./33.9-338.9 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8xKQybQQE21EE

Should be easy to learn how to use with YouTube.

I've got a Gator Grip socket, but rarely use it. It's fine, I guess, but really doesn't seem as solid as the actual-size sockets.

Never tried the B&D ReadyWrench, but I do have a couple of quad-drive ratcheting wrenches. I'm pretty pleased with them, but it does seem that more often than not, none of their eight sizes are what I actually need at that moment. I imagine if I get the SAE set, I'd use them a lot more than I do the metric.

Just pick up a gator grip socket.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8

That's what I use for scenarios like yours. They have them at Sears and places like that that sell tools.

The Stanley version is very well rated.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509832400&sr=1-2&keywords=Locking+Adjustable+Wrench&dpID=41s-XgSjppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This thing is magical. Tons of uses you didn't know you needed it for. You won't use it every day, but when you do use it, you'll wonder how you got by without it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

One of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-PST154-4-Way-Sillcock/dp/B0002YVMEM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467130447&sr=8-2&keywords=sillcock+key

Useful for getting water from gas stations. A lot of times the faucet will need a sillcock key. When I go inside and ask for permission, sometimes they say they don't know where the key is, but I say I have my own... then they let me use their water.

Easy peasy.

Thanks!

• I was hoping the four liters of ready-to-drink water would help me avoid the complexity of collecting/purifying water and be sufficient for the distance/duration I need to walk. Most available water sources near Chicago are pretty polluted with all manor of disgusting stuff, even on a normal day, so I hesitate to risk consuming it. Thoughts?
  
• I had never heard of a silcock key before, but I'll be adding that to the bag. Good suggestion!
  
• I'll also get a multi-tool. The Gerber 01471 seems to get pretty good reviews for the price. Any other suggestions? Ashamed I didn't already think of this...

first result in search...

every set I see on amazon has both T8 and T9. Most are around $15-20 though.

Of course it wouldn't be /r/tools if I didn't recommend a Wera set

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9tS9yb9QJHK9R

Nano-Oil 10 weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwS9yb10KF8P2

Torques:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yvS9ybNJ3JZ9A

There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

It honestly wasn't bad at all. Took me about 10 minutes and would be much quicker now that I know what to do.

You have to remove 5 screws from the exterier and once you're inside another 3 screws I think.

You'll needa Torx 10 and Torx 20 screwdriver. Something like this would work and give you both and you'll need something to pry off the rubber feet with. I bought one of these but you can probably find something around the house to use.

Here's a good set of instructions for taking apart the Xbox:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+Teardown/1308

And this video shows someone taking one apart and removing the capacitor: https://youtu.be/9cdR8Ryn4wE

The PH-1 set isn't bad, but for my money I'll go with the $13 Stanley Long-Arm set any day.

Cant see how the truck is positioned. Is it at the bottom of the hill facing up? In the middle of the hill? Do you have another vehicle available?

Lots of ways to do this you could use a come along.

If you dont think you will use that much or want to avoid the cable and you have some good chains available you could always use a Hi lift jack (we call em trailer jacks here) as a winch as well.

It really doesnt appear that you are in a horrible situation from these pics. You could probably use that plywood there to put under the trucks oem jack and jack it up some to put more of those concrete blocks under the tires.

Not knowing exactly how the truck sits and what you have available and or are willing to purchase makes it hard to recommend things.

Good luck, be safe and check the ratings when using any type of strap/cable/chain under these circumstances!

For a situation where one or two people could push your vehicle out of being stuck yes it would probably work, for being actually stuck no. For cheap you're better off with a 25ft chain and a hi-lift with winching kit or a dual gear comealong.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BJXJAbTNBDGD1

Good reviews on this one for $50.

Yes, it will xome in handy. Get yourself one of these or better yet the whole kit that comes with lapping bars and everything.

It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.

You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.

As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.

this is the norm. Good reviews too, or you could go crazy.

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

You can get a beam style torque wrench for about ten bucks. You don't need one for this project, but it's a fair excuse to get one. I'm sure you'll use it in the future.

Here are a few examples at amazon. They should have at least one at the local big box home improvement store too

http://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J6925-4-Inch-Holder/dp/B001HW898K

http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-44498-4-Inch/dp/B000X1PBXC

Try searching for a 1/4 Square Drive Bit Holder

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-4935070-Square-Magnetic/dp/B0040UBLO0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&qid=1556205744&s=hi&sr=1-3

Edit: This one looks even better, has a quick change and is fairly cheap with lots of reviews on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&pd_rd_i=B004DYKIH4&pd_rd_r=4898ea1f-1cdc-4e75-8143-41fd0c0672cd&pd_rd_w=rhvM7&pd_rd_wg=drd7x&pf_rd_p=5c5ea0d7-2437-4d8a-88a7-ea6f32aeac11&pf_rd_r=5RV4QAAKZMRAF10V6EM6&qid=1556205744&s=hi

If you're not hurting for money, I would recommend buying a set of coilovers instead of springs. You can adjust the ride height of your car to exactly what you want, and allow you to run a wider wheel, should you go that route in the future (the physical diameter of a coilover is smaller than that of the stock strut). That said, a set of good springs is probably better than some cheap coilovers, like some $500 ones from Raceland.

Regardless, install is something you can probably do yourself. It's actually simpler with coilovers, but if you do go with springs, get yourself a set of spring compressors (can be rented from places like AutoZone - return them and it costs you nothing), and some kind of socket with an open back, such as a spark plug socket or something like this because you'll need it.

As with all suspension modifications, it's a good idea to get an alignment afterwards as well.

I started out with just this and i had no issue till i started needing specialty junk. Codeblues and Dogbones are my best friends (These if you want more sizes), These + a larger set and a 11-1 w/ t25 security bit. Good razor and flush cuts of your choice. Beyond that its all climbing/rigging convenience stuff.

I have 2 sets of hex keys. The metric are blue, and the fractionals are red.
I do find that quite useful. Its not difficult to visually distinguish a 4mm from a 5mm. 5mm and 3/16" on the other hand, the color makes that easy.
Blue metric and red imperial do seem quite consistent across manufacturers, at least here in Australia.

Im not particularly sold on using multiple colors within one set.

In my experience, 85% of "gunsmiths" are FUDDs. I've had some who refused to remove the pin & weld on a *stripped* barrel (it was not even connected to an upper, even though that wouldn't have made a difference because the lower is serialized/the firearm) because it would have violated the NFA. And he was extremely popular in the area and a complete koala-dick prick.

Meanwhile, I know a guy who supposedly took an AK to have the barrel chopped when it was still connected to the serialized receiver... and technically that'd make the gunsmith the maker and not the dude who had done the Form 1.

I know it's not what you're looking to do, but I strongly suggest you treat yourself to some self-education and invest in a torque wrench ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and also a do-all tapco wrench (yes Tapco, but the wrench is GTG: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-armorer-s-tool-prod54530.aspx Sadly, amazon doesn't have it atm). With these two things, you will be able to master your upper receiver/barrel group life.

Then, YouTube has all the videos you need on replacing the barrel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NjNEQr4lCM&list=PLmovdvtE7X-iTinH_f2fTsVW6CWYMPcln&index=4&t=0s It's very much not that difficult.

It's worth it, I promise. You'll pay that much anyways just for one barrel change. And you can do it yourself, for the first time, in just 2 hours to account for the hemming/hawwing. Afterwards, with experience, it takes ~20min (removing the handguard, replacing, etc.).

It's good to have for a lot of jobs. I have this one, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

Here’s the manual hand tool, no vibration, way if anyone needs that:

Crank Pulley Holder Tool $15

Short Breaker Bar $14

Long Breaker Bar $35

Plus, the correct size 1/2 deep socket that fits on your crank bolt. $10-15

• Jack up the front of the car high.
  
• Put the pulley holder and small breaker on — to hold the pulley in place.
  
• Stick breaker handle between some strong suspension parts. This is going to hold the crank from spinning counter clockwise.
  
• Put your long breaker and socket on the bolt.
  
• Stand in-front for the driver headlight, and put your weight on the long breaker with your foot.
  
  I usually have someone look it everything is saying put while I put my weight on it.
  
  If you have a hard time getting enough clearance you can do the jack stand and multiple extensions trick.
  
  P.S. These guys used pipe instead of the long breaker, and socket wrenches instead — I would use breakers for both. How to Video
  
  Just be careful if you know it’s seized or suspect it is. Then you’ll need to explore other methods. Don’t want to snap the bolt.
  
  Then if you want to torque to spec, then a long torque that can hit your needed ft/lbs.
  example

I generally use a really expensive digital one I bought for engine builds but I also use this guy for stuff I'm not super worried about tolerance on. I use it mostly to torque the bolts on my hunting rifles
TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb./2.26-22.6 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4YHIyb8JJV191

https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

I personally wouldn't buy a torque wrench from HF they are very good for certain things that are solid metal (socket, crescent wrench) but anything more technical I may not trust them. I purchased this torque wrench from amazon and it has served me well at $30 10-80ftlb.

Tekton 24320. Print out an nm-to-in/lbs conversion chart to save yourself a headache.

You mean like this? https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

I'm using Amazon links as requested, but if you have a local big box tool stop you can get the store brand of most all these items for the same price or less. I know from personal experience, that from the tools I've listed all but two of the items are cheaper in store than on Amazon.


Everyone needs a knife! (~$7 home depot)
Razor blade


Where are you going to keep everything? (~$10 home depot)
Utility Sack


You'll need a good all around screw driver. (~$8 home depot)
6-in-1 Reversible Screwdriver


Need some basic general maintenance pliers? (~$20 home depot)
Pliers Set


Ratcheting screwdriver for those repetitive screw jobs. (~$20 sears)
Ratcheting Screwdriver


Where the hell did I put that T6?
Magnetic Precision Screwdriver Set


Where did that damn screw go?
Flashlight


Extra stuff!


I recommend the ball end ones specifically if you don't have a good angle on what your trying to get at (cough towel bar cough cough).
Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set


For those damn pesky wires and that damn lack of a third hand.
Helping hands


When duck tape and gum wont cut it.
Beginners soldering iron kit




I have used all of these specific items extensively besides the ball end hex keys, and that specific helping hands.

1. Go to your local sporting goods store, Dick's Sporting Goods tends to be the best for this because of how aggressively they price clearance.
   
2. Ask them if they have any "air backpacks". If the associate looks confused, ask for a manager. Air is when something goes below clearance and rings up for $0.02, and they will sell it for 75% off of the original price, but in many districts they're getting ready for inventory so they are motivated to move this stuff. I know at some of my local stores they just sell all air for $5. I got a $120 Browning backpack for $5. You're going to be looking for a nice hiking backpack with the part that goes around your waist so the bag isn't banging you in the back as you ride.
   
3. Order a bunch of tubes, they are available for as little as $3, or if you run Tublitos then grab some patch kits and one extra tube.
   
4. Order a cheap set of sockets, allen keys, and a chain breaker off of Amazon.
   
5. Throw all that stuff in your cheap backpack with the last remaining part of your chain from when you initially cut it.
   
6. Bring that bag with you every time you go riding anywhere.
   
   Now, for about $100 you'll never be stuck again. I'm amazed when I see people who aren't prepared for this kind of scenario.

As some of the other posters indicated, you will need a hex key. This is the standard screw on most bathroom accessory installations, e.g., towel racks, faucet handles, toilet paper roll holders, etc.

You don't need to worry about digging around to find the original hex key as a standard hex key will fit - you just need the right size.

Here's a link to a set on Amazon: Hex Key Set

You can also find these sets at the usual suspects, e.g., Ace, Home Depot, etc.

> https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

Hey, thanks for all your replies. I don't know if you get Karma or not but I gave some upvotes

> 15 nm

ah, bummer, that's right in the range where small cheap ones are too small and the large ones are too large.

the only decent, but relatively cheap one i could find was a tekton one, which i use now

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

that said, if you know what 15nm feels like, you could probably get close enough and be fine- seat bolt specs are a lot tigher than most other bolts on a bike

I just got this one for my smaller torques, and have had that pittsberg one. it's not surprising you thought they cost so much when everyone is always posting about their snap-on wrenches and what not. Just remember to not drop them, or throw them down, and store them at the lowest setting to keep them calibrated/not wear out the spring.

I have been very happy with my tekton torque wrench. No audible click at desired torque setting but very noticeable break you can feel at torque setting.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

EDIT: just saw you wanted to keep it in the range bag. Probably a little big. Might want to look at the vortex option they just came out with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0USC82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510460987&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vortex+torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=418AdlEXyML&ref=plSrch

I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.

BAGS

• 5.11 Rush 24 Pack (Should fit all tools): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N1G2WY
  
  
• 5.11 Tactical Small Kit tool Bag (for the essentials):
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/small-kit-tool-bag.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A66GDI
    
    
• 5.11 Tactical Shell pouch # x2 in 2 different colors:
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/shotgun-ammo-pouch-vtac.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PTSUUO
    
  • one pouch for rj45 connectors
    
  • one pouch for cage nuts
    
    ETHERNET TOOLS
    
    
• Punch down tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D
  
• Crimper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D3B97U
  
• Network Cable Tester: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW
  
• Cage Nut Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL09HPU
  
• Wire Stripper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJWUEMQ
  
• Ethernet cable stripping tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788LVZA
  
• Coax and Data Cable Cutter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S5VE0Y
  
  SCREWDRIVERS
  
  
• Steelex D2023 Magnetic Tip Screwdriver Bit Set 30-piece: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD6T9
  
• Klein 32561 Std. Stubby Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQDHHC
  
• 15 in 1 Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VJY99Y
  
• Philips Head Screw Driver with magnetic tip #3: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ISYR6K
  
• iFixit Precision Screw driver 54bit set: http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/54-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-022
  
  PLIERS and WRENCHES
  
  
• Needle Nose Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNNW1M
  
• RoboGrip 7" Wrench Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEPAFQ
  
• Tekton 26-pc Long Arm Ball Hex Key Wrench Set (inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF4W
  
• Tekton Star Key Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF9M
  
• Craftsman Evolv 3 pc. Adjustable Wrench Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056BJFOK
  
• Tekton Combination Wrench Set (Inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ159G
  
  POWER
  
  
• 1.8" LCD 20+4-pin Power Supply Tester w/8/6/4-pin Connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MKCALY
  
  MISC
  
  
• CRKT 3 inch folding Knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017UV9W0
  
  
  SUPPLIES
  
  
• Pack of 100 RJ45 connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BS92DCK
  
• 75ft Role of velcro: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069FJR2M
  
• Electric Tape: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WCCL
  

>Okay wow much more expensive than oil bought at the auto store, but I think I’ll take your advice and spring for it.

Oh I forgot - if you do, Omaha is a partner of this subreddit. If you use the code RedditDucati at checkout, you get 5% off and free shipping. It is more expensive than generic oil or whatever, but this is the oil they use from the factory, as well as a factory filter, the o-rings and washers and wrench you need, etc.

Ideally, you should also have a torque wrench to re-torque the drain plug and filter (you don't have to use one, but it's a good idea and I'm really anal about stuff like this). I use a Tekton one from Amazon. (I also have a smaller one that I use for lower torque stuff.)

>I can’t seem to get the free play in a place where the clutch fully engages yet lets me find neutral.. Perhaps I wore the clutch too much or maybe even with the recommended spacing my cable is too long after putting lower handlebars on.. although tension is tension so I’m not sure how much extra length should matter.

Tension is tension, you're correct. If you replaced the bars, though, you do need to make sure that the cable is routed in a way that it isn't binding up anywhere. This means no sharp bends or turns or twists, especially right near where it connects to the lever mechanism. I've seen people with swapped bars who end up putting a lot of pressure on the cable right there with how it's routed and that makes the cable not slide freely.

>As far as the oil thing goes, I thought paying the extra fees and going through a dealer would make buying used safer but aside from that I don’t know how one buys a used bike while making sure there’s nothing wrong under the hood.. is there any way to ensure against buying a bike with a problem like oil consumption or leaking?

It's tough, because it can get expensive. You can do things like leakdown tests and compression tests to see how well the cylinders and pistons are mated, but that's not cheap, especially on a bike like a Duc where getting to that rear cylinder head is a pain in the ass.

Honestly, it's entirely possible that your bike isn't eating oil, and that it just got underfilled when you bought it. I would do the oil change and get it so you know that the oil level is right. Then ride it for a while (like weeks / months) and keep an eye on the oil level. It shouldn't change.

What you really need is a thumb detecting nut fucker:

https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK


https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0


https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26

Ok, cool. I have this one from Amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0

Since it's rated for 80 ft-lbs, I should be ok for the 50 ft-lbs torque specified in the Curt install sheet.

Sounds a bit like me!

1. What I did was look at all the components on my bike and try and find the owners/instruction/installation manual. This provided me with most of the torque settings required for the various components, and I put them into a spreadsheet for future reference. For the remainder, I went to Park Tool website http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts and thus completed my list of parts with their respective torque settings. The range worked out to be from 2Nm-49Nm (min torque spec). I could not find a single torque wrench that had this range, so had to split into 2 wrenches. Since the smaller values (2-10Nm) were the most common on the bike, I purchased this Tektro 1/4" torque wrench http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG which ranged from 2.26Nm-20Nm. I have had no problems with this wrench, and it feels good quality for the small price I paid.
   
   
2. I've found isopropyl alcohol to be sufficient for cleaning the rotors, but mine don't get all that dirty so YMMV. I know that Fenwicks makes a Dry Degreasers and Disc Brake spray that is supposed to be very good.
   
   
3. You're probably best looking to get the Park Tool stand http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9 It's not all that expensive and the quality is excellent.
   
   As to rear derailleurs, they are all pretty much standard. You have 2 screws for determining low and high stop; the b-screw which controls the gap between the top pulley wheel and the cassette. And then are able to adjust cable-tension either at the derailleur or the gear shifter which will fine tune the shifting indexing. Just youtube any rear-mech/derailleur setup and you should find something suitable.
   
   Hope this helps!

This one is not overly expensive at $38 and has very good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4nch-To-Irque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1427333182&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

$43 then you'll never have to guess again.

I have one from Nashbar.. 25% off today, so $60.

I also have a fixed 5Nm wrench, not exactly this one but similar.

This makes things like threadless stem replacing really quick.

For 6Nm, I carry Topeak's 6Nm Torqbox. Not on my work bench but on the road.

EDIT:
After I returned one from Harbor Freight one, I bought Tekton's one for 3/8" drive. For bike, this one is too big. I used this to install the hitch on my car so I can mount a lovely bike rack.

> I don't know why anti-theft skewers are not more common on city bikes,

Because many of them can be readily compromised with a pin socket.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

This: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DP240-Direct-Plug-Screwdriver/dp/B000VKX0LA/ref=sr_1_1

This: http://www.amazon.com/Delk-41128-Stainless-Hammer-Silver/dp/B002YIHEXC

Tape Measure, Level, Razor Knife, JB Weld, Mini-Pry Bar, Putty Knife / Scraper, Needle Nose Pliers, Vice Grips, Adjustable Crescent Wrench.

This: http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

This: http://www.amazon.com/IIT-99851-Twist-Tie-Cutter/dp/B004ZL3A4I/ref=sr_1_2

You'll eventually want a good drill, me personally I prefer corded to cordless (I usually hate batteries). The first saw you get should be a circular saw.

A lot of these tool selections are intentionally crappy (ie: the gator grip?!?!) because it'll get the job done 90% of the time and takes up almost no space / weight, and when it doesn't do the job, you'll know immediately and will go get "the right thing".

All that junk will run you maybe $100-200, take up almost no space / weight, and will make an appreciable improvement to your life.

/r/DIY would have some good opinions too.

--Robert

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

I think you're thinking of a socket not a driver bit

Anyways the gator grip broke free from the infomercials and is everywhere. I saw them cheap at pepboys. They come in handy when the bolts are not confined to small spaces.

I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.

Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.

Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.


Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.

Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears

Consider using a Gator Grip socket.

If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.

Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).

The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.

Well, sir, obviously youre doing it wrong. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

Related question are the locking ones any good ? Link www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

the wrong tool for any job!

this on the other hand, is a good tool when you can't find the goddamn 1/2" socket...why does the 1/2" always go missing? every socket set should come with 3 of them.

P-38 can opener (they make a bigger one called a "P-51.")

A sillcock key, to turn on water sillcocks. https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-PST154-4-Way-Sillcock/dp/B0002YVMEM

Magnesium fire starter. https://www.harborfreight.com/magnesium-fire-starter-66560.html

Backpacker headlamps https://www.greenbelly.co/pages/best-ultralight-backpacking-headlamps

Pocket knife with clip
https://www.knifeworks.com/folding-knives/brk-avispa-folder-black-nylon-handles-black-aus-8-blade-plain-edge-design-by-esee-knives.html

Smith & Wesson HRT carry knife with clip sheath.
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SWHRT9B/smith-wesson-hrt-boot-knife-fixed-double-edge-blade-rubberized-handle

I said wrench but I mean something like this

one thing.. if you have an autozone.. go look for one of these https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0

how is your air dam below the radiator.. that is used like a bulldozer blade to build air pressure in front of the radiator ..

which engine.. LT1. with optispark? examine the ignition coil.. its on the front of the cylinder head.. if you have a 305 TBI.. examine the coil on the back of the intake for signs of high voltage leakage.
little white circular marks indicate leakage..

lightly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses.. do the same with the heater hoses.. extra soft hoses get replaced.

Get yourself one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1539364509&sr=1-6&keywords=torx+screwdriver+set&dpID=51AakW0eVNL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Very handy for opening all sorts of electronics devices. If you don't want to wait for shipping, I found one at my local hardware store for a little more money.

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | (Xbox One) How to fix sticky buttons on your controller - NO SOLDERING REQUIRED!
Description | This video shows you how to easily and thoroughly clean the inside of your Xbox One controller and restore it to like new condition, without having to solder anything. For this project, you'll need a T8 security torx screwdriver, as well as a T6. Don't buy a new remote, save your hard earned money and do it yourself!! Here is a link to the tool used in the video http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414030911&sr=8-2&keywords=titan+security+torx
Length | 0:10:42






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^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

The kit lacks a hex wrench set, which is a central fixture in any bicycle toolkit. Whether or not you buy that set, you won't get far without metric hex wrenches. The fact that they omitted such an important piece makes me really skeptical about the rest of it.

I have an SAE/Metric set of Stanley hex wrenches, similar to this $10 set. They've been serving me well for years (except the 4mm wrench that I lost X_X).

I would just buy a complete set of hex/allen keys. They don't cost that much and are useful for other things as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1452031562&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+key+set

Ta da, happy wheeling, stay safe and always use a tree saver and proper safety strap wise.

just a heads up, if you put a word in [ ] and the link in () immediately after it makes a hyper link. For example cable winch

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

You need in-lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.

I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.

Savage 10 in .223 Remington

Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16x42

LaRue Tactical Ultra-Low Mount Rings
OR
Vortex precision matched 30mm rings

Also buy this wrench https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

It will help you out a ton.

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

Your torque wrench cannot possibly do inch pounds unless you have a really specialized torque wrench.

Unfortunately if you set your torque wrench to 25, you set it to foot pounds which means it applied 300 inch pounds of force.

Edit: This is what you need to do inch pounds. Wheeler Torque Screwdriver

This is what I use to install scopes. (Amazon link)

The documentation that came with the scope and the rings should have the appropriate torque, or you can almost certainly find it online. $43 is a decent investment to keep from cranking down too much and stripping the screws or, worse, distorting the scope tube or too little and having a wobbly scope.

Sounds like you need a torque wrench made for small arms.

Most shops have a little blurb on the work order telling you to stop back by in 100 miles to have the torque checked. No one ever does but this is the reason it exists. In my personal experience the basic ugly steel wheels are usually fine but the fancy bling rims need to be retorqued quite often.

Stop back by next week and ask them to check the torque on all of them. Better yet go get yourself a torque wrench so you can do this yourself for the rest of your life. This one is cheap and will work fine. The beam type are pretty much good forever. (fixed link to one that will actually work)

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4

Bit Adapter - 1/4" to 1/4" - Turn Any Ratchet Into a Driver! Now with Quick-Change By Pro Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P6GsDb0GQ5R1V something like this should work just search 1/4 ratchet to 1/4 drill or impact adapter

Thanks for the reply. Your links got me on the trail to find this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/

I think this will do nicely with the existing bits I have :)

Not much you can do. Penetrating oil, heat, and if you can unscrew it a bit, try working it back and forth. Might need more pressure on the bolt too if you're using a screw driver, a bit to 1/4" drive adapter works so you can get lots of torque with a ratchet while pressing the bit into the bolt with your palm

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4

Torx < 6 point < 12 point

Why not something like this? It goes on a normal ratchet between the socket and the wrench. Could probably make it work with the right sized spanner as well.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=Ratchet+Torque+Wrench&qid=1566286754&s=gateway&sr=8-13

Though about something like this? I can't personally vouch for it, but it gets great reviews and has a very broad range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYURT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this ACDelco digital torque wrench. Pricey but amazing. For chassis work, just get a $12 harbor freight torque wrench in 1/2" and you should be fine. The only time you'll need a 1/4" drive is if you're doing inch/pounds.

A quick search on Amazon found 3 pass thru socket sets:

GearWrench

Craftsman

Bostitch

edit to add more:

Crescent

ChannelLock

Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight, all have house brand pass thru sets (husky, kobalt, pittsburgh).

Get one of those pass through socket sets maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffcm-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB009L8GEPM

> Yep, get those BGS flare nut spanners

Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.

> The screws holding the caliper bracket however might as well be welded in - those were a son of a bitch to loosen up.

Fuck me -- mine was in so tight I stripped the head right off and ended up having to dremel the damn thing out and go buy replacements. That was before I had the fire insight -- after which things went much better.

You are using a metric key on an imperial keyhole or vice versa, but if you're sure you're not these work wonders occasionally https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wera-05073593001-Hex-Plus-Mulicolour-Ball-end/dp/B009ODV0OE

​

If the screws are really stripped, you can either epoxy a bolt in them and use that to take it out, or use one of those stripped screw removers and a drill.

No problem, in no particular order of relevance, a few other great ones to consider are:

Knipex Pliers Wrench - My single favorite tool ever

Felco C7 Cable Cutters - You can usually find these used and sharpened for $20 on eBay

Dualco Grease Gun - Your bike needs grease, this makes it easy

Motorex 2000 Waterproof Grease - Can grease be beautiful? I think so. Exactly like the Dura Ace grease

Wera Hex+ Keys - I know you have some already, but the slightly scalloped faces of these "hex plus" keys really do allow you to remove very stuck fasteners without stripping, and I have even removed bolts stripped with standard keys

I can't help you on the chain rivet tool

In terms of a ratchet kit - since the rear axle nut needs to be torqued down pretty heavy, you'll want a decent torque wrench that can comfortably hit the spec on the rear axle nut. Do you know lb ft your rear axle nut needs to be torqued to? I'd suggest getting a torque wrench that does 15-150 ft lbs something like this , as most axle nuts need somewhere in the 75-110 ft lbs. Then, at the least you need a socket that 1) matches the drive size on your torque wrench (likely .5 inch) and 2) the axle nut size (can vary a lot. mines 27mm, some are 24mm, recommend checking service manual and/or google). You'd be even better off for doing other work to just get an impact socket set, should be able to find something decent for ~$20 on harbor freight, and then a cheap ratchet (for when you just need to loosen things up or other various tinkering activities)

I like the Tekton torque wrenches, have 2 sizes and never had an issue. In terms of sockets, anything not made out of chinesium is fine (Harbor freight set has been good for me)

Buy a torque wrench. They're important to have and not terribly expensive either. This one has worked great for me. $35.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-203-5/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524178399&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench+1%2F2+inch+drive

You should get a tekton torque wrench. Mine has stayed true for a few years and it goes up to 150 ft/lbs. Cheap too.

I got a tekton one for about $40 on Amazon, it doesn't have to be high dollar as the torque range is huge. I built my dad's without one and just went to the next gas tube spot past "tight" never had any issues and that thing shoots. That method wouldn't work so well for the aero Handguards that have 4 spots for the gas tube and a set of shims though so I got one for a friend's build.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNTWAbP1FXQPT

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz2izbFQR4974

You need to buy a torque wrench.

I own this one.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Torque-10-150-Lb-13-6-203-5-24335/dp/B00C5ZL0RU

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

I bought this guy off Amazon and I've been very pleased with it.

I used a torque wrench for the barrel nut on my AR15.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451251714&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31migy44iyL&ref=plSrch

That is a torque wrench and what I think of when I hear that term, which is why I was confused about this product being called a torque wrench.

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

Heres a fairly general 1/2" torque wrench by TEKTON. Its $57 (plus tax), does 25-250 ft lbs, not digital however, but is a very reliable brand for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=pd_cp_469_4?pd_rd_w=1pkqa&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=PJNVXXD0RXZHB8H433KD&pd_rd_r=55f6a626-87d2-4d13-9f8a-3dfe8736a9da&pd_rd_wg=TF8s9&pd_rd_i=B00C5ZL1NS&psc=1&refRID=PJNVXXD0RXZHB8H433KD

If you wanted to venture to Snap-on territory, this is one made by their supplier for $158

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sr_1_5?crid=35YOXOJXYGC4J&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&qid=1564268944&s=hi&sprefix=cdi%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-5

I have the bigger brother of the tekton you mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS

Since I drive an F150 with lug nuts that need 150ft/#. And as with most precision devices, they don't operate their best at either extreme.

The thing is solid, and all my tekton tools have been a pleasure to use. But I have read online as I am sure you have that spring types like the tekton can lose calibration A) over time, B) if you do not return to the lowest setting.

The Tekton would be fine probably forever, but if you bite the bullet now you can get the generic version of the snap-on for about 3X: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/

I came across this link on this subreddit about who actually makes the tools for snap-on, and you can find it here: http://www.toolchat.net/

Since most snap-on are just re-branded. The 2nd wrench I linked is a split-beam and does not have the associated accuracy-over-time issues of the spring type ones.

That said, with the Tekton you can spend that other 100$ on more needed tools, then graduate to higher quality over time. Having a spare around is awesome.

You can't. You can, but not with a standard air wrench. Air powered wrenchs with a specific torque are multi thousand dollar tools used in factories that have staff that recalibrates them every month.

What you need to do is find a different vehicle and run out to an Oriellys/AutoZone/AdvancedAuto/NAPA. Buy the bolt and do a free tool rental of a torque wrench that has a 44ftlb rating. It will be a wrench that is 2' long or longer. Looks like this. If its the first time using one, set the torque and torque down a random bolt/nut to the rating. Learn the click and get an idea of what 44 ft lbs feels like. Put it on the cab bolt, sneak up to but don't exceed the torque, get the wrench in the right position, handle it such that your arm is 90 degrees from the wrench shaft, and slowing pull until it clicks. Then reposition yourself so you can make a 170 degree turn without ratcheting to put the bolt into the final position.

It really depends on your needs. I think for most people and bikes, it's totally unnecessary to have torque wrenches. When I bought mine (this one), I was really shocked at how high the torque specs were for cockpit components/seatpost/FD clamp/etc. I found myself going 1/2 to a full turn tighter than I ever would have on my own, and I've never had trouble with parts slipping on me in the past. Just use assembly paste and/or grease in the appropriate places.

That said, I do still use it, including to install chainring bolts on my Quarq, and it gives me some peace of mind.

For pedals, it's definitely not needed. Pedals only need to be installed to 'snug' because pedaling action tends to tighten them up over time. I can't think what else on a bike you'd need that higher torque range for, but maybe that's because I only know road bikes.

https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

This guy works good for stuff like that too.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

I do not want to detract from how awesome this is, nor do I think that this is as cool as the using another hook hack in this thread, but I use one of these for this job:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

First thing I would try is getting one of these universal socket dealies and seeing if it will remove that broken socket piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

Are you sure that you aren't thinking of Pinheads and the Gator Grip? And even for Pinheads, apparently they have something on them now that prevents the Gator Grip for working.

Gator Grip; good for making rivets, but not much else.

tbh these are not much harder to get off than normal bolts to a rim thief who steals to order or has event the slightest bit of nouse, howd dya think tyre shops get em off when you lose your "key" http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

Try a gator grip.

If that doesn't work, take it to a shop.

I posted something similar a while ago, you might find some more information there. Basically it's supposed to work very well with rusty and already fucked nuts and also double as vise grips in a pinch (pun not intended)

Here's a Stanley one on Amazon.

Adjustable wrenches have some perfectly valid uses. Holding the backside nut of a bolt your are tightening, for example - nice low torque use case. Also great for certain uses in bicycle repair (gripping freewheel removal tools and such).

If you want one that can handle some real torque, try this one. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

The problem comes in that there's lots of jobs they are NOT suitable for.

Did anyone notice the price on Amazon compared to Walmart

This thing is great for holding a nut behind something .
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

I got mine from Princess Auto, which is a Canadian chain something like Harbour Freight. They have a surplus section where all kinds of neat things show up from time to time.

Stanley makes one with a conventional handle. A spud makes using a cheater easier, but at least Stanleys don't have a bulb at the handle end.

These are my two uncommon but frequently used tools, This guy cause I hate carrying around tons of nut drivers https://www.amazon.com/Driver-NutDriver-Klein-Tools-32800/dp/B01I0QVP18
And this one because I do a lot of bucket truck work and often need to use an adjustable but they get loose and sometimes dropped.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549061734&sr=8-5&keywords=locking+adjustable+wrench

Best of both worlds right here:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

I bought two.. Couldn't be happier

He needs a locking crescent wrench!

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

It looks like it'd work, but your rifle should have come with a little baggie with allen wrenches in it, and one of those is specifically for adjusting the sights.

If you don't have this baggie, a full allen key set isn't much more than the tool you linked price-wise (and a full set is definitely more useful, as you'll need an allen key to take the rifle down for cleaning).

Kitchen knife? Henckels international classic paring knife?

https://smile.amazon.com/J-Henckels-International-CLASSIC-Utility/dp/B00004RFMO/

I might not say that it'll last half a century but I'm happy with my atactical a1.

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Sheath-95BUSKZ/dp/B00BD4W54Q/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Toughness-Durability-Edge-Holding-Capabilities/dp/B00AU6BFDK/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Modified-SpeedSafe-Reversible-Glass-Filled/dp/B06XR8XTJP/

https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W/

https://smile.amazon.com/Estwing-Hammer-Straight-Smooth-Reduction/dp/B0000224VG/

Some wiha screwdrivers

Lifetime warranty https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Forged-Scissors/dp/B00114LTMC/

From my experience, no hex drivers will last a lifetime. I use these. They're not fancy, but they are high quality hex wrenches.

I have been building and racing RC cars for 20+ years, and I am also an engineer who has been building machines for about the same amount of time. I replace my hex wrenches every couple of years because they wear out and round over. This will happen to any hex wrenches because of variations and deformation of screw heads. For less than $20 you can have a full set of standard and metric wrenches, and they can be used for more than just RC cars.

Hope this helps.

I know it might sound like splitting hairs, but if you don’t have bondhus or a ridiculously priced euro made Allen set, get some. Even brand new a lot of brands are a rounded head waiting to happen. Eklinds aren’t bad, but I pretty much quit having trouble with Allen’s since getting bondhus. They’re really not that expensive, but I almost never see them in brick and mortar stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W

For $30 in Canada these are fantastic.

Bondhus 20199 Balldriver L-Wrench Double Pack, 10999 (1.5-10mm) and 10937 (0.050-3/8-Inch) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00012Y38W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q2cMAbPH38R3Q

I have his exact set and I use them all the time.

Thanks for the response.

Yes, there is a valve inside the house that is turned off. And I see what you mean about the allen screw and that makes sense about it draining. But you know how there's a pipe between the valve inside the house and this little junction outside? That section of pipe still has water in it that can't drain through the tiny inside drain because there is a vacuum in the pipe.

Are you saying that I need to buy some sort of water valve handle that I stick on top of the silver "plug" to be able to turn it?

EDIT: Oh man, is this what I need? Or perhaps this or this is better.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517581060&sr=1-4&keywords=tamper+proof+torx

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420597060&sr=8-1&keywords=security+torx+set

should have what you need.

This could help you in the future

1. For that kind of riding, you got a good enough bike. Heck, you could have gone tiagra and would have been ok. The parts will last you a long time so you won't have to worry about upgrades in the near future.
   
   
2. If you haven't yet, learn how to adjust the front and rear derailleurs yourself. It "literally" takes 1 minute or less to do. People don't learn and end up paying constantly when they take their bike into the shop for a "tune up".
   
   Learn how to adjust your brakes. Again, takes 30 seconds to learn and you can do it within 10. All you need is a hex wrench (probably 5mm).
   
   Learn how to clean your chain. It's easy to just put the bike up when you're done, but wipe the grime off your chain RIGHT AFTER the ride. Doing this keeps it down to a lower amount and reduces wear. Also, remember to wipe the cogs in the rear derailleur when you wipe the chain too.
   
   I would suggest buying a towel and a few rags dedicated to this. The towel to cover the floor (if you do it inside) and rags to wipe off the bike. If you have a hose that always helps. I don't.
   
   But if you get the bike wet, wipe standing water off. The bike is resilient but rust creeps in over time and ruins the look.
   
   
3. I would suggest buying this:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398374834&sr=8-1&keywords=hex+wrench+set
   
   I got it and it's awesome. Lets you do virtually all maintenance sans BB removal and wheel truing on your bike. Seriously; you'll use the 4/5mm the most, and possibly the 3mm.
   
   Get a floor pump for your house and grab some CO2/nossile for flat repair.
   
   I normally carry 1/2 tubes, 2 CO2 canisters, 1 CO2 nossile, tire levers (you might not need those) on my ride in my jersey pockets. You can fix a flat in 5 minutes; no hassle.
   
   So I would say now, to buy 3 tubes; 2 or one to carry with you, and one for a backup so you aren't left with a low number should you flat one day and need/want to ride the next.
   
   Some people patch but I dont' flat enough to sweat 6 bucks a tube.
   
   
4. Save for new tires down the road. Ride those until you get constant flats, then get yourself a pair of Continental GP4000Ss (if you want performance oriented) or Gatorskins (if you ride over a lot of glass)
   
   Those GP4000s tires are some of THE BEST tires you can buy right now for speed/durability/grip in wet/dry conditions. They really are magical.
   
   
5. A jersey with pockets is awesome. Get one. It doesn't have to be something fancy, but anything will be better than a tech T shirt. What I do is
   
   Left pocket: Phone/ID/CC/Keys in a zip lock bag. Protects from rain and sweat.
   
   Middle pocket: Tools/Tire levers/Gels/Chews/Food
   
   Right pocket: Tubes
   
   I actually have a storage bottle on my bike under the seat, so all of that goes in there; I just stash food and stuff in the back pocket now.
   
   Also, if you get cycling shorts, and you should, you can put gels under the shorts on your legs for easy access and space saving.
   
   
6. It "might" get expensive up front if you buy jerseys/shorts/pump/stuff all at once, but you'll only have to make that purchase one time.
   
   In the past year, I've spent 100 dollars on bike maintenance stuff. That's on new tires. For stuff I needed anyway.
   
   Lube lasts a long time, bar tape lasts a long time, quality gear lasts a long time.
   
   
7. Learn some awesome new recipes for cooking. You'll want to eat healthy/healthier if you aren't, so look up some great dishes. Fish is awesome. Protein, tastes great, and pretty cheap if you pair it with other things. Swai tastes great with pasta and Talapia is awesome for a different overall taste palate.
   
   
8. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. CO2, jersey recommendations, pricing, food, gels, maintenance, anything.
   
   
9. If you aren't the type to just dive in with tinkering, swing by a local coop or bike shop if you have one near. Just go in, ask somebody how to show you how to adjust something, and 9/10 they'll be happy to help.
   
   The thing about bike maintenance is, it's kind of intimidating at first, especially if you're adjusting something and you don't "really" know what you're doing, but the physics are simple, and it's just a frame and parts held by tension on wires and some gears. Very simple.
   
   If you get something changes/adjusted by somebody, try and stay and watch. Or, hell, ask to help. I had to recable my bike last month and just asked to help the guy to do it. Ended up taking a bit longer but I know exactly how to do it on my own now, and it cut the cost of 60 (which is on the low end, actually) to 30.
   
   Last thing, I wouldn't worry too much about bottom bracket and wheel truing now; that requires special tools and isn't easily done without them. If you can afford to have that worked on, that's ok. (And those rarely need looking after, like once a year if you don't trash your stuff).

10 and 14mm? I've NEVER seen hex bolts that big on a bike - they would correspond to M12 and M16 SHCS - so, half an inch diameter screws. you may be thinking of cone wrenches, which would vary based on hub manufacturer (and on older bikes, headsets).

For hex wrenches/allen keys, you don't need the fancy T handled wrenches. They're nice, but they're a luxury. If you're going cheap, just get a normal set of metric hex wrenches (like this - bonus SAE wrenches to boot http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405808907&sr=8-1&keywords=metric+hex+key+set ) or a folding set if you want something to take with you (but don't expect to be able to get crankarms off with it!) http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Tool-AWS-11-Metric-Folding/dp/B000OZFI76/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1405808982&sr=8-5&keywords=park+tool+folding

If you have a fancier bike with carbon components, or want to get serious about bike maintenance, do yourself and your bike a favor and buy a torque wrench and a set of hex bits. The smaller bolts with lower torques (2-5 Nm range) tend to be the ones you'll overtorque and damage parts, so start with a torque wrench with a low range first. You can add the larger torque wrench (~10-75 Nm range) later.

Other than that, just get the tools for the jobs you end up doing on your bike. A chain breaker is a must, and cone wrenches for your hub (if it uses them) are great to have.

7 for two sets, one 'murikan, and one metric

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499360414&sr=8-3&keywords=allen+key+set

Local hardware store have Hex key setHex key set for cheap. Most atomizers uses the 2nd smallest one.

2011 Xterra, I don't really off-road, but I do get stuck a good amount. I live in northern Michigan.

• 20ft 20,000lb tow strap
  
• Cable winch- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBHO?keywords=cable%20winch&qid=1454268116&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
  
• Jumper cables
  
• 2 machetes
  
• 1 hand chainsaw - http://www.amazon.com/SHARPEST-Survival-Chainsaw-Highest-Quality/dp/B00HHLBFX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454267405&sr=8-3&keywords=hand+chainsaw
  
• If I am in it, then a 9mm S&W M&P9c
  
• First aid kit
  
• A few flashlights, LED lantern, and a couple lighters
  
• Adjustable wrench
  
• Leatherman
  
• 4x 15ft 500lb ratchet straps
  
• Utility Shovel - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BE6QDW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Get one of these to start: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Drive-Premium-Breaker/dp/B001222378

And this or the big air compressor equivalent and high volume connectors if you're serious. Impact wrenches are less likely to break things as their hammer action is more uniform and breaks up rust. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PN5JAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474751492&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=electric+impact+wrench+1+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41rm-gKmKBL&ref=plSrch

Dude...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1464108450&sr=1&keywords=Breaker+bar


Buy real tools man.

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

• Craftsman 230-Piece Mechanics toolset
  
  
• TEKTON Universal Joint Set
  
  
• Neiko 1/2 Inch drive premium Breaker Bar
  
  
• Kobalt 5-piece pliers set
  
  
• Pro-Lift F-767 Grey Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton Capacity
  
  
• Torin T43002 Jack Stands: 3 Ton Lift Capacity
  
  And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
  
  
  If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
  
  
  
  Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
  
  Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
  
  New or used: Used
  
  
  Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
  
  
  Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
  
  
  Vehicles you've already considered:
  
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 Engine
  
  
• 1992 Corolla Toyota
  
  
• 1989 Honda civic ef sedan w/D15Z1 off 92-93 civic vx
  
  
• 1999 Honda Civic Coupe 1.6 vtec
  
  
• 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
  
  
• 1997 vtec Hoonda Civic
  
  
• 1995 Honda Civic
  
  
• Civic Ex D19Y8
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic Vtec 1.6
  
  
• 1984 vw rabbit gti
  
  
• 1999 Ecclipse
  
  
• 2000 Ranger
  
  
• 2000 Eclipse
  
  
• 1990 Mustang foxbody 5.0
  
  
• 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage
  
  
• 03 Mits Eclipse GTS Spyder
  
  
• CAMARO Z28
  
  
  I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
  
  
• Local Craigslist
  
  
• Local Craigslist 2
  
  Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
  
  
  
  Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
  

My breaker bar is probably the most useful tool I have. It's only $25: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.

Save the money you would have spent on a gunsmith and buy a $50 torque wrench.

Depending on the rings you buy, you may need blue loctite. Before you tighten anything, close your eyes and find your natural cheek weld. Open your eyes and move the scope forward or back to suit. Level the scope. You can use bubbles, but I find squaring a flat surface on the bottom of the scope to the rail is more foolproof. Use torque wrench to tighten everything following instructions that come with the rings.

Something like this is still a hand tool, but with no actual numbers in the manual you have to find out all needed torques by yourself.

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

I have one of these for basic gunsmithing and scope mounting: http://www.amazon.ca/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Torque can be set up to 65in/lbs, accepts standard 1/4 bits and has an adapter for 1/4" sockets. No more stripped holes for me.

Do you have an Inch/lb wrench?

Wheeler sells a "Fat Wrench" amazing... A MUST HAVE

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

The right tool for the job.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

Not really

google the torque specs. Buy a torque driver. You will use it all the time.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=torque+driver&qid=1555630412&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Done right the MOS system is solid. There are a few things to know, though:

1. Replace the provided screws with the Battlewerx RMR screw kit.
   
2. Use the Trijicon sealing plate.
   
3. Use Vibratite VC-3 instead of blue loctite.
   
4. Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to 12-14 in/lbs.
   
5. Optionally, spring for the C&H Precision V3 optic plate
   
   The only reasons I see to have a Glock milled these days is if you want irons forward, are using an oddball optic or are already having mill work done.

Here is the cheaper analog version
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-1&keywords=fat+wrench

Here is the digital version that I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+wrench

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't say with any certainty but it wouldn't surprise me if many electricians don't use torque tools.

I'm not a pro but I got me one of these "firearms" torque screwdrivers because I like to do it as correctly as possible.

Failing that I'd say that it's probably better to over-tighten than to under-tighten, so long as you don't strip or break the threads.

That sucks. Sorry :-(

Personally, I've always preferred this style of torque wrench, it's significantly cheaper aswell: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Classic-Needle-Style-8-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B0019VMI0Y [note that that's just the first link that came up when I googled "torque wrench needle"; it's definitely not a product recommendation]

I also recommend getting a bit more of an intuition for the numbers; 19 ft lbs really ain't much torque. That's like... "I gave it a good twist". It's good if you have the mental check in place that "I know I had to go to 19, but this feels pretty hard".

If you need to get an intuition about this stuff, think about the units; you know what twenty pounds feels like, and you know how long a foot is. Imagine putting about 20 pounds of force on a foot-long wrench... that's 20 foot-pounds.

$15 disagree.

For gxp a beam wrench is actually better than a clicky one imo because the torque required is pretty high.

Agreed, a beam style torque wrench is very low cost, its better than nothing.

Example:

Tooluxe 03703L 3/8" and ½" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel | 0-150 Ft. Lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.qFOAb5TD8J52

This is the one i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HkDMAb19JSFD3

And here’s a similar one from Autozone:

https://m.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-socket-wrench/duralast-1-2-in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?location=

Any click style one is going to eventually go out of spec, and cheaper ones are going to do it sooner.

My suggestion is to get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Classic-Needle-Style-8-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1425254703&sr=1-5&keywords=torque+wrench

Its cheaper, and its essentially a calibrated metal beam, so as long as you don't what it or put cuts in it or let it rust, it will stay calibrated for quite some time. Its cheap as hell too.

I did a DIY rebarrel (.308 -> .308) on my Savage 10 Hog Hunter, AMA

> I'd like to convert my Savage in a .223

What caliber do you want to change to? If you stay within the cartridge family you do NOT need a new bolt face: https://www.stockysstocks.com/blog/suggested-bolt-action-cartridge-conversions-with-a-new-barrel/

You will need to do some research

> I will need a new bolt face (maybe), a barrel nut that isn't smooth (yes) and a pre-fit barrel (yes)

You need to know what shank size your Savage Action is.

You will also need:

• Vise
  
• Wheeler Action Wrench #2 (Remington 700/Savage 11/110)
  
• Wheeler Savage barrel wrench
  
• Pipe wrench (easiest way to take off the smooth barrel nut, but you will mar it. Savage smooth barrel wrench does not work.)
  
• Torque wrench in ft-lbs This snaps into Wheeler Savage Barrel Wrench
  
• GO GAUGE for new caliber (NO GO Gauge is optional, you can put a piece of scotch tape on the end of GO Gauge to act like a NO GO Gauge)
  
  > pre-fit barrel (if possible, something that isn't 800$+)
  
  Mystic Precision carries Shilen barrels for $~600, or you can wait for Savage take off barrels on CGN EE (know your shank size)
  
  > Is there anywhere in Canada that sells those parts?
  
  You will have to look around and probably piece it together slowly, no one-stop shop place here for rebarreling
  
  > P.S. Will I be able to swap barrels at will and keep (more or less) my zero?
  
  No. You will also need to take off your scope, so your scope zero is gone anyways.
  
  

  Instructions
  

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPlFtskCwng
  
  
  

  My Advice
  

  If you want to change to .308 or 6.5 CM, I would just buy another rifle and keep the .223 as a training rifle while you slowly piece together equipment. When you want a match barrel, you will be ready for a rebarrel

If you are concerned about getting it to the right specs, this is what I use and it works just fine.

> I absolutely understand torque wrenches and their importance, but, not sure I want to make the investment for the infrequency I would use one at this point in my life.

Really???

Just two examples: https://amzn.com/B0019VMI0Y and https://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/3364_ITEM_CLICK-TYPE_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1562189647.3117.png

Those are much cheaper than brake rotors. The beam type will last forever. It's a good idea to have the calibration checked on the click types because the springs stretch on them. I have a couple of the Harbor Freight cheap ones, and some "tool truck" ones I paid $100+ for, and if anything, the HF ones stay closer to proper calibration longer than the expensive ones.

If storage space is a problem, I also like this solution: https://amzn.com/B009GLISI0 which also doesn't require periodic calibration (and can actually be used to check calibration on other torque wrenches).

For pads, I agree Akebono are the best. Those go on my wife's Mercedes S class, and on her VW Beetle daily driver. My pickup truck, a 1997 Chevy S10 2WD with the 4.3L V6 (which is also my autocross "sports car") is running Wagner ThermoQuiet Cermic pads now. They are inexpensive but very effective. Most modern ceramics (even the parts store "house brands") are more than adequate for today's cars and today's tires.

The difference between pro and cheap is that professional holds their calibration and can be re-calibrated and repaired. Cheap ones lose their calibration quickly and most service shops won't recalibrate them. Given their cost, it's cheaper to toss them and buy new when they lose calibration. You can buy adigital adapter to check calibration or just use the digital adapter with a regular ratchet

From Tekton Tools

1. Get a large fixed weight (such as a 45 lb. steel plate) and a way of hanging it on the end of your torque wrench (such as a rope). Add up the weight of the objects you’ll be hanging on the torque wrench (for example, total weight = 46 lb. if the steel plate weighs 45 lb. and the rope weighs 1 lb.)
   
   ​
   
   
2. Measure the distance in inches from the center of the torque wrench handle to the drive tang. Divide by 12 to get the number of feet—for example, 21 in. = 1.75 ft.
   
   ​
   
   
3. Set the torque wrench to the total weight of the objects you will hang on it multiplied by the number of feet. In this example, 46 lb. * 1.75 ft. = 80.5 ft-lb. of torque.
   
   ​
   
   
4. Fix the drive end on a fastener or other object that won’t move so that the torque wrench is parallel to level ground. You can use a level to make sure the wrench is really parallel.
   
   ​
   
   
5. Hang the weight from the center of the handle. Don’t let the weight touch the ground.
   
   ​
   
   
6. Your torque wrench is accurate if it clicks when set to the same torque as you are generating, as long as it doesn't click when less torque is applied. You can check this last part by moving the weight in slightly toward the drive, which will reduce the torque. The torque wrench shouldn’t click when the weight is moved closer. If it does, it is under-measuring the torque, meaning that your fastener won't be tight enough.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Or just use a torque adapter like this.

I use this on my miniplane. It is definitely a good idea to torque plugs to spec. I like this one cause it's much more accurate at the low torque settings needed for the headbolts too. Most mechanical torque wrenches are designed for much higher settings and aren't very precise for what we need. https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1536246357&sr=8-7&keywords=electric+torque+wrench

I've had bad luck with torque wrenches in the past, so I decided to go a different route. I gave some "Torque Adapters" a try from ACDelco, and I was really pleasantly surprised! They come in 1/2 inch and 3/8th inch flavors. They are quite easy to use as well!

Samething happened with one of my Craftman torque wrenches, actually. Now I check my torque wrenches with this prior to use (and calibrate them when needed). Totally worth the money.

I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but I have these and they're great for long bolts and stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM

Crescent makes a set: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM

I have it, and haven't had any issues with it, though I rarely use it.

Part 2; Amazon link

Crescent CX6PT20 X6 Pass-Through Ratchet and Sockets, 20-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L8GEPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mQi4DbSZ6XYDY

>Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.

Interesting, I wasn't aware of this one. Indeed could be really useful.

The only downside that I see is that you'll most likely have to remove the rear motor cable connectors, because you'll need to remove the rubber nut cap. When I was changing my rear brake disc last week, I managed to do that without removing the connectors.

Front motor cable connectors though have to be removed every time - otherwise it's just fucking impossible to pull it through those tight holes of the front suspension.

Wera HexPlus is the ones that will work on rounded allens. There are tons of YouTube videos showing how they work. I ordered my set from Amazon IIRC.

These bad mamma jammas are probably some of the best you can buy.

Only a month late getting back to you on this...

The three case with three handles are all torque screwdrivers

Links to everything here:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BSKR35U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E8HM9N2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001555G80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H88FP24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depends on the tools you have. If you have all the tools and fixtures it is a total cake walk to build an upper around a barrel. If you don't have the tools/fixtures, you will struggle.

You can get a Magpul BEV block, armorer's wrench and a torque wrench for all under $100 and are worth their weight if you get into more serious AR building.

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.


The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

I bought this torque wrench for $40. It's been working fine so far. $22 on this vice. I picked up a BEV Block at GT's I think.

It's not amazing or anything, but I've been able to do everything I've needed to up to this point.

Just get a torque wrench. Most people dont bother and just use a normal wrench to reef on their lugs and that's bad for them. Your lugs should be around 80 ft lbs, just google 'em.

good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".

>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.

> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?

Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&pf_rd_i=559968

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6


Thank you!

Just get a torque wrench and whatever socket fits your lug nuts. Look up what your car is supposed to have and just leave the wrench set to that.

Check it up every few months, only takes like 10 seconds to do and doesn't need any special skill to accomplish. If you can use a screwdriver you can use a torque wrench, just makes a loud click when it hits the setting. Sure beats going to a tire place every time you need to do that.

Now if you want to get it fixed professionally, by all means do so. But I wouldn't let lack of a torque wrench hold you back. This 1/2" drive one is only $40. I'm sure it's not the world's greatest torque wrench, but Tekton has a decent reputation. Harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive for $10 (after coupon, ~$20 otherwise).

You can rent a lot of specialty tools for bearings, etc from part stores like Autozone or Orielly's. I haven't seen anything saying they rent torque wrenches, but I'd give them a call at least.

• This
  
  
• This
  
  
• This x2
  
  
• This

good call given the spec for my rims is 120 Nm +/- 10. Given that i think I may order the 1/2 one and get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and deal with the bulk when I'm under the car doing an oil change. By that time i may invest in a 3/8 or 1/4. Had to add in I'm so excited to order my Rhino Ramps instead of jacking up my car I'm like a kid in a candy store lol

no, no torque wrench in the kit, but I probably wouldn't want a "kit" torque wrench. This kit just gives you basically every and any size socket you will ever need, plus a lot of wrenches, a screw driver with changeable bits, and a few other things. I got this one on Amazon, I've cranked on it up to 140 lbs on my Toro zero degree mower and it's great.

I just go to Autozone and use "rent a tool" to borrow their breaker bars, torque wrench. They charge your credit card and give you 90 days to return it in same working condition. Having said that I know youtube channel "Chris Fix" recommended one of amazon's best selling torque wrenches for weekend garage diy'ers... here's the link
https://amzn.com/B00C5ZL0RU

This is the one I have in my garage.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/
The 25 to 250 ft lbs will cover 99.9% of everything on a passenger vehicle, and the 1/2 inch drive is a good size for the sockets that will be used for wheels and suspension.

I have a bridge to sell you for that interior 😲

These are things I have found especially useful. I've used these more than anything in my huge toolkit, but I'm glad I got it for other general wrenching.

• 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars and torque wrenches if you don't like to guess whether you're going to strip a fastener like me. I found the Tekton brand is solid for torque wrenches, here's the 1/2" 250ft-lb.
  
  
• 22mm deep well socket (steering wheel)
  
  
• 8, 10, 17mm sockets, deep and standard
  
  
• socket extensions (u-joint probably wouldn't hurt)
  
  
• Flare wrenches, if you're doing the brake lines
  
  
• penetrating oil (liquid wrench or the like)
  
  
• Zip ties
  
  
• Work lamp - I found this one at Menards and it is so useful. Magnetic/rechargeable/lasts for hours
  
  
• Jack/Jack stands: picked up a cheap, durable set of Torin stands with a jack. I was thinking about something from Harbor freight, but I don't want to cheap out with something that I'm relying on to keep the car up.
  
  
• cheap multimeter
  
  
• spare wire (for jumping your oil service light after a DIY change)
  

My current favorite:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

For higher torque values, you'll need to go up to the 3/8" drive version.

You're halfway correct. You're only converting the length unit, not the weight unit. So to go from kg-m to ft/lb you'd have to convert both units. Easiest way is to use an online converter, like this one. So your range, 0.15 to 13 kg-m, is equal to 13 to 1128 in/lbs, or 1 to 94 ft/lbs.

To really get all those torque ranges, you would need 3 torque wrenches: one for the smaller torques, one for the bigger stuff, and a screw-type torque wrench for the really small stuff. But two torque wrenches should cover about 90% of the stuff on that list.

These two wrenches would work perfect for what you're doing: a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive. With Amazon's free shipping the price should be right around $75. These two wrenches give you a range of 0.23 to 11 kg-m, which is everything on your list except the "cone seat for steering rod" and the "speedometer cable locking screw". If you ever mess with those, just use common sense and don't over tighten them.

I currently work as an aircraft mechanic, but I have also worked on motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you that most people would not even torque the vast majority on that list. Some things are important, where a failure of the bolt or nut can result in damage, like the axle nut bolts, and those would get always torqued. But things like the kickstarter arm bolts would normally just snug them up. Over time you will learn what is proper strength that should be applied. But for a beginner the torque wrench is great because it reduces the chances of stretching a bolt.

Quick science lesson. If you look at this chart, you will see the torque you can apply (the stress axis) vs. the stretch the bolt will receive (the strain axis). As you torque a bolt, the bolt will stretch slightly, which is fine, unless you go too far. A normal torque for a bolt would be somewhere between 0 and the yield strength on the chart. In this area, the bolt will stretch but return to it's original form once the torque is release. If you go any further, you enter the strain hardening area. Here the bolt will receive permanent deformation, but will still be tight. If you go even further, you enter the necking area, where the bolt has stretched so far that it has become thin and the strength of the bolt is no longer there, and the bolt is very close to breaking.

The reason why I bring this up, if you're ever tightening a bolt, screw, or nut and it feels like it all of a sudden got easier to turn, most likely it's because you've entered the necking area and you're about to break the bolt. Best thing to do then is take the bolt out and replace it.

A ball head hex key is the right tool. It allows you to turn allen screws at an angle.
Here

I have a gunsmith set from amazon that has more than you need but has a bunch of useful bits like the punches.

any hex set would do you fine from amazon https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25282/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hex+set&qid=1557022314&s=gateway&sr=8-6

As far as he's wrenches, I'd recommend ball ends like theseTEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_89DRAbKQ3YGR7

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

It depends on the caliber. You don't need an adjustable gas block with 300 blk, but it can help a lot with 5.56. With 5.56, you will generally want an adjustable gas block to limit the gas, an adjustable bolt carrier to vent the gas or, at the very least, an H2 buffer to slow down the bolt carrier.

The adjustable gas block is the most elegant solution, but an adjustable bolt carrier works well and is easier to install for most people. A heavier buffer will help it cycle reliably, but it will still be overgassed.

If you already have an adjustable gas block installed and your handguard holes don't align well with the adjustment screw, you might be able to get to it using ball end hex keys, like these Tekton ones. These will allow you some leeway in terms of the angle you need to get to it. If the area is just completely blocked off, you will have to take off the handguard.

Seems pretty simple. The only real frame specific stuff you'll need to do are:

• coat the inside of the frame with framesaver (double check with the mfg that it's not already treated) or it will rust from the inside out
  
  
• install BB (possibly face BB surface, up to you)
  
  
  Nothing else is particularly finicky or difficult. Disc brakes can be a bit of a bear, and if you go hydraulic you'll what a bleeding kit. All pretty simply bike stuff after that, e.g. routing lines, tuning derailleurs, etc.
  
  I'd recommend getting a low range torque wrench for things like your crank bolts, brake bolts etc. I've been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The go to wrench. http://www.amazon.com/Mine-Tools-HW12-Hammer-Adjustable/dp/B00H87JEBE

I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.

I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.

If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism

In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.

Hope this helps!

I have this tekton torque wrench. No complaints. The torque wrench doesn't get much wear and tear so it is hard to judge the longevity but I also have a racheting wrench set by them - my most used tools (for auto work) - they're holding up well.

Thanks to everyone for your help! I bought all the tools you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26)

and just replaced the spark plugs. Here is a photo of the old one. It seems it is not that worn, but I have replaced the four anyway.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-ft--lb/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166396&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+wrench

But it's a little overpowered for bicycles, and I actually feel like it's not giving me the right torque. But it can give you 50nm or 36 ft-lbs, so it should do the trick for cheap.

A more expensive option is the bicycle specific Park Tool one:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench/dp/B004KZWL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166567&sr=1-1&keywords=park%2Btool%2Btorque%2Bwrench&psc=1

Only the 3/8 Drive one will give you the necessary torque. I ended up ordering this one today, because of my problems with the cheaper one, especially for low-torque applications.

Also, I'm not sure what drive those Bafang sockets are. If they're 1/2 inch, you'll need an adapter to go down to 3/8 for either of those torque wrenches. Something like this set:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Adapter-Reducer-Vanadium-Conversions/dp/B01G3VKPAE/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473169675&sr=1-5&keywords=socket+adapter+set

The following will get you out of most mechanical issues:
workstand
mini ratchet
set of hex bits for ratchet
1-10ish Nm torque wrench
10-100ish Nm torque wrench with adapter for 1/4" drive bits
Park spoke keys
homemade bearing/bb press out of plumbing odds and ends
Park chain checker
Park mini chain tool
Park chain whip
Park master link pliers
Park hollowtech crank cap tool

>but be careful with cheap torque wrenches. They're made in China and are rarely calibrated accurately.

Any suggestions which brands would be not cheap? and what should I expect to pay for a decent torque wrench?


Also below are both 3/8 wrenches one is measured in inches 120-960 the other is feet, 10-80, which converts to the same exact measurements, is there a benefit to having a wrench in inches over feet or vice versa?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL12Y

Don't rely on security skewers, stuff like pinheads can be defeated really quickly with one of these. Bike thieves know it and they carry them, and security skewers help identify there is something there worth stealing.

Try one of these?

https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-5547-4-Ton-Power-Puller/dp/B000NPPBHO?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_9pvhzuqrji_e

Its called the gator grip and it seems to be a really useful tool. It's about $16 on Amazon and gets great reviews
Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000065CJ8/?tag=rf-ca-10-20

Always buy these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ/

They are always the correct answer.

Dont buy a harbor freight torque wrench. I bet your hand is more accurate. Seriously, HF stuff is just a waste of money.

If you want to own one, spend a little bit more and have some patience. This one will do and its only $40.

If you dont want to spend $40, go to Autozone and rent one for free. You pay them the price of the wrench and then bring it back in 48 hours for a full refund. It a program they started to stop people from buying and returning tools all the time and its great. I think O'Riley has something similar too.

I got these keys to replace these wera keys. They’re the same other than the color coded sleeve for the most part

Edit why is this getting downvoted ?