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I used a viper remote start similar to this
works amazingly never had an issue and the two way remote is worth the money, use two good quality relays, and this is the best i could find for the actuator and i 3d printed in abs the mount for the solenoid, i actually sell these. and i couldn't bring my self to sell it, i'm keeping her. 13psi with a JWT ecu and boost jets - super fun to drive

You might get lucky and have it just come off with a little prying, try that first. I've had some pop right off.

I highly recommend these Dremel EZ Locks over the older style cutting wheels that screw into the bit. They're much faster to change, because these wheels get eaten through and torn up pretty easily and quickly. Just get the metal cutting ones, and you should be good to go.

Edit: I also remembered the other reason i like the EZ lock's a lot more. The discs typically die in 3 ways 1) They just get worn all the way down (rare) 2) The outside breaks off 3) (On the old style) They break at the center mounting point. The EZ lock has a wider diameter at the mounting point for the EZ mount and its more reinforced, making it much rarer that they break the 3rd way.

I would only recommend NGK wires and plugs for the z31. I'm pretty sure the NGK stuff is what Nissan used from the factory and it's what I use on mine. It works great! https://www.amazon.com/NGK-NE77A-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY6UU2

Car looks good. Would look better with these: Tein VSN22-C1SS3 Flex Z Coilover Kit for Nissan 300ZX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SM99O44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_03zrzbKA5VY02

Start by cleaning the throttle body. This stuff is fine:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05078-Throttle-Air-Intake-Cleaner/dp/B000M8PYO2
(Also inspect the throttle cable, which can sometimes stick).

If you have no spark on all, or like 4 of the 6, cylinders your car will not run. If you have weak spark, which is more likely, will cause issues like rough idle, low power issues, hard to start.

Likewise if you have a fuel pressure issue you will not be getting enough fuel per cycle causing hard to start issues, misfire, no start at all (if bad enough).

If you have never changed the plugs I would recommend going ahead and doing that, I think its about $20 for 6 and lots of swearing if you still have all the OEM stuff in your engine bay. Since your car is old'er' you might at well change the vacuum lines also. I dont know how much you need for all the OEM stuff but it shouldn't be terribly expensive and it give peace of mind that you will not have a vacuum issue for a while.

Anyways, I am not sure how to test spark for a distributor, or how contacts on a distributor are supposed to look. I could make guesses but am no expert. I used one of these for my COP https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71240-Energy-Ignition-Tester/dp/B00A8FO87S/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474061791&sr=1-8&keywords=spark+tester and it worked but might not be needed for your situation. Testing wires, plugs, distributor and coil would be my first recommendations. Then check fuel pressure or vacuum leaks.

Maybe a fuel pump cutoff switch? Or wire up a fart machine and put the speaker under the passenger seat

Ah I see what you mean now. I can’t recall seeing that for sale anywhere. Is yours leaking or cracked?

When I had a ttop Z and I had a little leak, I bought this grease off Amazon that kind of brought the rubber back to life and softened it up and “thickened” it out if that makes any sense.

Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NMYBb6YYEP9N

I bought one of these short term since I couldn't easily find a cheap new cable. GT-Speed Universal Motorcycle Emergency Throttle Cable Repair Kit for HONDA, YAMAHA, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI, SCOOTER, MOTORCROSS Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLGKQEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_vftqhoEfikF5U

Oil on the exhaust manifold is a fire risk, even if it's just a slow drip.

The flash point of motor oil is not that high. It's only around 450 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature of the exhaust manifold can go well above that under load. If you have a turbo downstream of the manifold, then that temperature can get even higher. (Example: the exhaust on my turbo diesel truck can easily get to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit when I lay into it while going uphill)

A slow drip is probably not enough to start and sustain an engine fire. But the buildup of oil on the manifold eventually can sustain a fire. And you do not want an engine fire. Also consider that other stuff in the engine bay can sustain an engine fire (plastic, rubber, gasoline, etc.).

The problem in your case is that, unless you've observed the leak at operating temperature, you don't know for sure if it's too slow to sustain a fire or not. It could be that it's dripping pretty badly when the engine is warmed up and running, but not enough to create a noticeable stain when parked.

The fact that it creates smoke that's visible when you open the hood is worrisome. A slow drip shouldn't create that much smoke - you should really only be able to smell a slow leak. If you can see smoke when opening the hood, then I would consider it a bad leak with a substantial fire risk.

I would verify the severity of the leak before deciding whether it's safe to drive - find where the leak is, then drive the car around to get it up to operating temp, and then observe the leak while the engine is running to see how bad the leak is. I would also check to make sure the valve cover bolts are tightened to spec. Then, I would order the gaskets and plan on replacing them as soon as is convenient. I would definitely not plan on driving it for another month without fixing. The longer you put off fixing it, the greater the fire risk. Replace the gaskets as soon as possible.

Honestly, if it were my vehicle, I'd probably park it until the new valve cover gaskets come in. But you may not have that luxury. If you must drive it, get an automotive fire extinguisher (class BC or ABC), something like a little 2lb or 5lb extinguisher like this. Everyone should already have one in their car, but you especially should have one if you're driving something that produces blue smoke from the engine bay.