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There are a few options but I haven't tried any. I want to though as I want to make a Fallout diarama piece using a bunch of minis from Wasteland Warfare. But like most wargames, they've super overpriced their minis and I need a ton of ghouls. So it's scan some of the ghouls I bought and copy them or do silicon molds and resin to make copies.

Unless you're printing with a photon or similar resin printer though, you probably won't get manufacturer quality.
There are some cheaper options for scanning now from the look of it.
https://www.amazon.com/HE3D-Systems-Advanced-Injection-Plastics/dp/B076B9SXK8/ref=zg_bs_8481412011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VNCMXPQXDJY151R7Q8CZ


And there's supposedly a smartphone app that will take in pictures to build a 3d model. I really wanna try that.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/photogrammetry-2-3d-scanning-simpler-better-than-ever/


But for the best quality reproductions you're best bet is still a Smooth-on mold and casting with resin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

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I've found that eliminating layer lines isn't too important if you go down to .08mm; the big issue is that overhangs and drooping on fine details can be a killer that overshadows the smooth surfaces. A few tools I've found handy:

Get a good round scalpel handle and a pack of carbon steel 15C scalpel blades. They'll be your go-to for nicking out tiny little stray globs and trimming plastic. Way more precise and durable than X-Acto or hobby knives.

Then get a set of diamond mini-needle files — they'll be useful for smoothing rough spots. Diamond grit may seem like overkill for PLA, but the fine texture of the grit is what matters: it won't leave your models ragged and with care you can actually restore detail that's lost to droopy overhangs, etc.

Finally, get a sharp-edged "soldering pick" and use the needle files to sharpen it to a nice sharp edge. It'll be your go-to for levering out bits of support, and picking away at larger globs of plastic. If you ever find that the scalpel blade bends while you're trying to clean up a defect, go to the soldering pick.

Hey Omnioji,

I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.

I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?

One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.

Also, honestly, I prefer hand-made Wyloch's Armoury tiles over the printed True Tiles versions. More flexibility in what I'm making, not locked in to having designs availability.

I also have a Chessex matt, but haven't used it in a while. I instead use these dry erase tiles https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Gaming-Paper-Erase-Tiles/dp/B073V3W83Z for on the fly maps - I can add tiles as we go and slide the map, remove tiles from other side as we need for room.

I also print maps if there is digital art. Rescale image to 1"/sq in Gimp, export as PDF, posterize print in Adobe, trim the edges with a straightedge and Xacto, and tape together. I print on a color inkjet (Epson Ecotank) on premium matt paper, though I have also used a color laser printer and heavier (but not cardstock) bright white paper. I cut a bunch of squares and rectangles in various sizes out of 65' black craft paper/cardstock, 1/4" larger in each directon than needed (so a 5x5" is a 5.25 square) and made 2"x1/2" strips as tabs - fold half and glue one half to the middle of each piece.

I have 3d dungeon terrain, but none of it is 3d printed - I find the variety and quality of minis of the Wizkids Deep Cuts stuff to be superior minis for the price compared to both free and paid STL files.

I started recently and did a lot of research.

I like Vallejo paints. Something like a set from Amazon is $40 and you get 16 colors. Depending on your paint color needs you can get game colors or a normal set.

Game Color Intro Set (16) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k97VCbDME38CK

Vallejo Basic USA Colors Paint Set, 17ml https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I-7VCbD1ETA5H

That is unless you're painting terrain. Use craft store paint on terrain. You can paint with craft store paints if your on a real tight budget. But I think it's significantly more challenging.

Also I recommend getting a nul shade from citidel. Don't get any of their paint pots, they are a pain.

I got this set and found it very handy to have all s
The washes I could want. Used some odd colors on my dragon and fire fox.
Games Workshop Citadel Shade Paint Set https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lc8VCbEMS1X69

Hope that helps!

Yea, I broke some off its fingers taking the supports off my prints of this model as well. And really your print looks as good as mine does. Maybe you could slow print speed down a little more, to like 1500 mm / min, and get the remaining fingers to look a little more round.

I use a product off Amazon called InstaMorph to mold replacement parts for stuff that I can't just glue back together.

Album of my process here. I used these fairy lights from Amazon. They are programable and run off an app as well as a remote that comes with them. I used this model from thingiverse, and made a stand that would hide the battery pack and let the lantern set well on my dining room table.

I cant wait to show the rest of my team tonight!