(Part 2) Top products from r/3dshacks

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We found 26 product mentions on r/3dshacks. We ranked the 156 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/3dshacks:

u/KingMinish · 1 pointr/3dshacks



Well, I'm glad I saw that big red box before submitting this as a thread!


TL;DR: Does the gateway emulation in Supercard DSTWO+ brick 3DS's? I'm trying to decide on what flashcart to buy.

I bought the original Supercard DSTWO years ago and it worked great, and the DSTWO+ seems like the only solution if you want a lot of NDS games on your 3DS.

So I guess what I'm wondering is, if I use gateway emulation on the SuperCard DSTWO+, will I brick my N3DS XL? Are there particular firmware versions to avoid? And otherwise, what's the best solution for playing NDS/3DS/Emulated games, without having to swap flashcarts all the time?

Also, tangentially, does anybody know of any N3DS XL shells that have built in storage for game carts? I had this back in the day for my DS, but I can't find anything else like it. I only mention this because picking up a Sky3DS and using it in conjunction with my old Supercard DSTWO seems like a reasonable solution if I have a good way to carry both of them around all the time. Less chance of bricking that way, I figure.

u/Koldfuzion · 3 pointsr/3dshacks

Yep you're correct.

When soldering there are a few basic things you have to consider. The main idea is that you want to heat up the wire and the contact point to the point that the solder will "wick" to the parts. You don't want to just melt the solder on the iron itself and have it drizzle on the parts.

Here are some other basic tips I wish I had been told when I was learning to soldering electronics in no logical order:

  • USE A WELL VENTILATED AREA. DO NOT BREATHE IN FUMES!!!! That stuff is really bad for you. Do it in an open garage, or under a kitchen hood.
  • Make sure you use solder with rosin core flux. NOT ACID CORE FLUX. That's for plumbing.
  • Thinner solder is easier to work with, you can always use more.
  1. Use the appropriate size iron for the job or you risk problems like the OP. For something like the 3DS, I'd probably go no bigger than a 35W iron.
  2. You want the solder to look shiny when you're done. If it's dull looking, it's a cold solder point and a bad contact point. Any movement while cooling frequently causes this problem.
  3. One of these makes a huge difference. It's cheap and worth buying if you plan to do much electronics soldering.
  4. Keep your soldering iron tip clean. Frequently wipe it down on a wet paper towel or a wet sponge while using it.
  5. Don't reuse solder. It's cheap, and the flux inside is important to help it flow.
  6. Tin the tip of your iron with solder as well as the wire you plan to solder. It's easier to just hold the tinned wire down with an iron where you need to solder than to use another hand to hold solder.
  7. Don't bother with those gimmicky solder removers to take solder off. Just buy some solder wick and watch it suck all solder off using the solder's wicking action as you hold it on with an iron.

    But most of soldering is just practice. It's a pretty easy skill to get proficient at. After a few projects it'll be almost second nature.
u/Envoke · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

I needed something on the cheap end when I first got my 3DS, so I picked up one of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-32GB-microSDHC-Memory-Package/dp/B003WGJYCY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481729298&sr=8-5&keywords=Sandisk+micro+SD+card+32GB

32GB is pretty significant, and since I buy all my games digitally, I'm able to have 8-9 games on the DS without any issue, sometimes more if I'm going back and playing an older game. Fire Emblem Awakening + DLC, Fates +DLC, Monster Hunter 4/Generations and a couple other bigger games were always on the card with 20k+ blocks to spare.

If you need something, or want something a little larger; https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-micro-Memory-Tablets-All-New/dp/B013TMNKAW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481729403&sr=8-5&keywords=Sandisk+micro+SD+card+64GB I've had great luck with the Sandisk 64GB HC in other electronics (I have one in an adapter in my PSP.)

If you're not a fan of SanDisk, or want to stick with a bigger brand, Samsung makes some great MicroSD cards as well, specifically this which I just picked up for my work cell phone; https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Select-Memory-MB-ME64DA-AM/dp/B01DOB6YQA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481729493&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+micro+sd+card

u/Eldurislol · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Most certainly, as well as broadcasts from other wireless devices (the 3DS only operates on a 2.4 GHz frequency) and the quality of the router hardware you're using. As Ratteltra said below, the modem/router ISPs provide you are very basic and have limited functionality outside of getting connected to the internet.

Personally, I found it worthwhile to invest in a new modem and router, because then I wouldn't have to rely on crappy hardware from ISPs and would be able to control my network with more tools. Things to look for in a router include MuMiMo (Multi-user, multi-input, multi-output; meaning that traffic doesn't bottleneck in multi-user households) and a QoS engine, which allows you to prioritize traffic to specific devices. I have my 3DS and desktop on Tier 1, my cell and roommates' machines on Tier 2, and other devices on Tier 3.

If you choose not to purchase new hardware, there are other steps you can take to increase the quality of your streams. As I mentioned, the 3DS only operates on 2.4 GHz frequency, which is susceptible to interference from other 2.4GHz devices (cell phones, cordless phones, microwaves, other 3DSs, etc.). Getting closer to the router is a good starting point. Eliminating or minimizing interference from other devices is another good option. Lastly, you may want to consider changing your network configuration to only use the 2.4 GHz frequency for your 3DS, forcing other compatible devices onto a 5 GHz access point. Many modern routers broadcast both channels, so simply changing the SSID or password and not sharing it with anyone could help reduce the load.

For reference, here are the items I purchased. While it didn't completely eliminate my issues with Kit-Kat, it did improve the quality of my streams significantly.

Router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB3X7R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UGG5KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regards.

u/HackerLion · 1 pointr/3dshacks

On 10.2, oot runs at the cost of a normal game at this link:http://www.amazon.com/Legend-Zelda-Ocarina-Time-Nintendo-3DS/dp/B003O6E800/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451023018&sr=8-1&keywords=ocarina+of+time+3d.
So, if you are willing to buy a game, and go through the 30 minute process of transferring the hacked save file w/ power saves, then go for it. Hope I helped. You can also update to 10.3 to do this method. You get badges, and if you successfully homebrew Oot3d, you can get custom badges with a homebrew app I forget the name of, but I use it alot. I have 288 badges. XD

u/Magna_Ge · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

I replaced my C-stick with a PSP C-Stick. It's much better than the 3DS C-stick, imo.

You can buy a PSP C-stick here

And here is a tutorial on how to replace it.

Just a warning, you need to open up your 3DS for this so will need a screwdriver. I highly recommend you use a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

Now it might feel a little weird when you use PSP c-stick, but you will get used to it. I use it all the time in Monster Hunter and it works really great.

u/ss2man44 · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

> You need a $120+ soldering iron

That's not necessarily true. This Weller is normally over $120, but it can be found for cheaper (like on Amazon.)

EEVblog, the author of the video linked above, even recommends (on a budget) this Hakko ripoff that even takes Hakko tips. Super cheap and is temperature controlled. You can find it cheaper than its Amazon listing too.

u/rrexau · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Hi, I just hacked my 3ds recently, and I used a 4GB sd card to hack.
And I want to get a bigger size sd card. I have a few questions,
does all type of sdhc card fit to an old 3ds? I see there have one on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/NINTENDO-compatible-Coolpix-Easyshare-Powershot/dp/B004X7ROPU/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1468303003&sr=8-1&keywords=3ds+sdhc+card , does it fit to an old 3ds? Should I get it? any recommend an old 3ds sdhc card?

Thank

u/stdalex · 1 pointr/3dshacks

so buy this game, follow this guide to install a9lh and from there I should be good to go?

Thanks!

u/jimtheadmin · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

Thanks, it's probably even better if we drop this here and this one has the magnifying glass on it.

u/pbanj_ · 1 pointr/3dshacks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AHAW0K i have this set, the one with the white cap works well for the n3ds

u/slamgauge · 1 pointr/3dshacks

This version of Oot seems to be new. Has anyone confirmed if OotHax works with it?

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Thanks for the reply. When looking at a teardown of a 2ds xl the battery is rechargeable lithium ion 1300mah, 3.7v, and 5wh. So could I, in theory, replace the battery with a this if I can get the posotive and negative parts to match up with the 2ds's.

u/craniallyCarbonic · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Your options are: Freakyforms Deluxe, a Powersaves with a physical copy of either OoT, SMD, or ORAS, or a Sky3DS.



With Freakyforms, how it works is you scan a QR code that crashes the game and loads the homebrew launcher. With the Powersaves exploits, you write a hacked save to the cart, load the save, and then initiate a similar crash that's game-specific (e.g., changing your secret team name in ORAS). In both cases, the homebrew launcher needs to be copy/pasted to your SD card, adding boot.3dsx and /3ds/ to the root.



Edit: More info on the homebrew launcher is here. The exploits listed above are, in order, freakyhax, OoThax, SMChax, and basehax.

u/stealthsock · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

Yeah, that would be alright. An unregulated iron would get way too hot, so having any kind of regulation makes all the difference. With one of those irons, I would use an official Hakko T18-S7 tip, this solder, a flux pen, and some 99% isopropyl on q-tips to clean up the flux afterwords.

The temperature you want is as low as possible but still hot enough to melt the solder pads as soon as the iron contacts. Somewhere around 330C. When you're doing a hard mod, you don't want to make contact with the iron for more than a few seconds at a time or you could start melting off SMD components around the pads. Allow the board time to cool between wires.

To contradict OP, almost anyone can do a hard mod with the right equipment and technique. It's basically cheating with the above setup. People who botched theirs had to be doing things very wrong.