Top products from r/AnycubicPhoton

We found 54 product mentions on r/AnycubicPhoton. We ranked the 87 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/AnycubicPhoton:

u/Ruc12821 · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Was the model printed where the wrinkles formed? Because the lost details were probably due to that. I’ve never had the wrinkling issue but it seems like it’s due to the film not bing tight enough (Just guessing). Is the film tight, like if you tap it is it almost like a drum? First I’d try printing stuff on the edges where it’s not wrinkled and see what happens. If you still are receiving sup par results you can weigh the pros and cons of tightening the film. I would try this as a last resort as it may just make your film useless and have to buy more. If you do try to tighten the film use this official video by anycubic ( ) I’m thinking that when you replaced the film you may have used a cap that was too big thus leaving you with excess film. I used the cap from a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and kept it under the film until I had all the screws done sandwiching the two pieces of metal. If you have to buy new film I’d recommend this from amazon ( you get 4 sheets for $20 which I think is cheaper than buying official anycubic stuff. I use it myself and it seems to work well (haven’t used it very much)

(Edit: I’d also recommend making the figure more vertical. That may make the details better. If that doesn’t work I’d try adding 1 second to the normal layers. Use use the light supports as opposed to medium and heavy since your print is small. But you may have to add some supports, the auto support isn’t always accurate (use auto but then add what’s needed). One thing I’m not sure is necessary or not but every time I print I re level my plate and don’t turn the machine off until I print to ensure that the print is level (doesn’t look like that was your problem though). Lastly, the thing about your resin hardening in the bottom of the vat can easily be fixed if you move your printer to a spot not exposed to sunlight.
Hope this helps, update me if it does or doesn’t

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Typically if a part of a model doesn't print, but later pieces do it's pretty safe to presume it's something to do with supports.

As for hollowing, I'm chasing that dragon myself. I've noticed The hollowing function will cause "artifacts" that show up on the first layer of the print when it's sliced and previewed, and they ruin the model. I've had some success with MeshMixer, but the last model I tried to hollow wound up with cracks in the base, so I stopped until I can spend more time researching how to fix them.

Resins - people are using a lot of Elegoo brand resin for their minis. A lot of positive buzz surrounds the Siraya Tech Blu resin, but be aware it needs to print in a warmer environment, 25C or warmer. I have used the sample translucent green to good effect, and I'm working through a bottle of Anycubic white that is similarly working quite well. I've got some of the Elegoo gray and Anycubic plant-based resins sitting in my workspace that haven't been opened yet. I have high hopes for the elegoo and no idea on how the plant-based resin will do.

No idea if anyone makes an auto-refiller for these printers. Good idea though.

u/IlMysterioso · 3 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Yes, still have it - I've run about 1.5L of resin through it, just bought another couple of litres and am starting to think about changing the original FEP sheet out.

My only real complaint is with levelling. It's a bit of a hassle, not because it's hard, per se, it's just that you need to be really precise (you're doing ultra thin layers, after all) and it's easy to get a liiiitle out of whack. Then again, it's pretty much a one-time thing, so it's a marginal complaint in the grand scheme of things. I found it helps to run a piece of paper in each corner to check that they feel pretty much the same; it's easy for one corner to be a little loose. Once I figured that out, I spent maybe 15 - 20 minutes levelling (hold plate down, tighten, check... nope, still not even; loosen, repeat) and haven't touched it since.

As for the S... I think the improved LED is probably the biggest upgrade, since it should reduce cure times and will hopefully produce slightly better prints across the whole platform. That said, I don't know that I'd spend the money to upgrade from my original unit - I've never had any issues with Z wobble and would rather see linear rails if to improve the kinematics anyway. I'd actually be tempted to keep an eye out for sales on the base Photon - Amazon has done a few flash sales lately (LOL, they're actually doing one now!) for $370 or so, and at that price, I don't think the S is worth the premium.

u/CyrusDonnovan · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

This stuff glows SUPER bright and is a pretty decent transparent blue color. Glows bright electric blue under UV light.

u/dixiyonef · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Hi. Based on the info I found Blu by Siraya is not really flexible but simply bendable (not brittle). As far as I know bendable parts may not crack, break and shatter but they may also not return to their printed form after being bent too much. And flexible almost always returns to its originasl shape. I hope I'm not wrong on this and you get my point.


is there a specific reason you mix with ordinary brittle resin?



u/Beef_Supreme46 · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

My green minis are mostly undead, skeletons and zombies etc. The skeletons are the most flimsy with thin bones and swords, one of them survived a waist high drop onto a wooden floor, although I wouldn't want to repeat it.

Cleaning and curing involves two IPA baths for about minute each with gentle shaking (these containers are great). Then they get a bath in hot tap water and a gentle rub with a soft toothbrush. A lot of the thinner supports will literally fall off by this point, then I'll go round with my flush cutters and remove any remaining supports. Next is a craft knife to remove any marks or lumps left by the supports before putting the mini under an LED UV nail lamp to finish curing.

u/nado121 · 3 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

A proper setup should be able to get rid of any smells, but that wouldn't be a sandwich-sized sponge and your usual 120mm computer case fan. In order for this to work you will need a radial fan and a proper filter like this set. Something smaller would certainly do, but I've never seen anything under 4" diameter.

They key is getting something that provides enough suction toward the exhaust so all the other openings and cracks in the photon's case don't leak any gas. This will in turn increase the volume of your whole setup. Sleeping next to it might be difficult. There's solutions for that, too, if you're willing to spend the time and money.

u/MaxTheBiochemist · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Fixed: First off, thank you guys so much for your advice. This forum is a huge boon to owning a photon. Passing it forward, the problem was solved after I did the following:

  1. Cleaning the dust out of the room the printer was in and buying an Air purifyier/filter for $50 on Amazon and setting it up so it was right next to the printer, sucking air from underneath the printer where the intake fan is.

  2. After cleaning the room, I bought a bottle of Elegoo Gray. See Here. This stuff is amazing.
u/robbzilla · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Plastic Razors... They work like a charm. You might not want to wait, but I encourage everyone seeing this who owns a resin printer to buy these. They're amazing. (They aren't great at getting stuck prints off of the bed, but off of the FEP and screen? Pure greatness!)

u/boomerbwm · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here:

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

u/Br4veNewW0rld · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

It's difficult to get the excess resin off of areas that have support. The surface tension causes it to pool.

I recommend getting an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. You can find them on amazon for around $20 USD. Fill the cleaner with isopropyl alcohol and let it vibrate for a few minutes. It will solve the problem.

Alternatively, you can try and scrub out the areas with a toothbrush, but I find that it takes to long and the results aren't as good as the ultrasonic cleaner.

EDIT: I just checked and they are actually closer to $40. I have this one and it works great.

u/shIT_the_b3d · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

I just did a tear-down of my printer last night and replaced my FEP for the first time. I too had resin on my screen. I was able to remove 99% of it by carefully dropping iso on the screen where the resin was and letting it sit for a bit until it started to really evaporate. I then took a plastic scraper and very, very, very gently scraped the resin off. Wiped off remaining iso, then took windex and got it nice and clean and shiny.

As for FEP, I just installed this FEP last night, but I didn't have time to try out my handiwork, but I can update when I run a print today. I can say that I went with the 200 micron thickness and it was a pretty tight install--I think if I go with this again I am going to go with 150 or even 100 micron thickness.

u/theChapinator · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I bought a Tupperware containers, lined it with aluminum foil, and then coiled UV LED strips around the interior walls. This works pretty well for me. Not super fast or high-power, but simple, DIY, and easy.

u/formesse · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

If the goal is to avoid the fumes, I'd say modify a carbon filter to vent the exhaust through. I've seen several, one going so far to use ducting to attach to a large carbon filter with a 4inch in line fan to draw air through. And then at that point it really won't matter where it is for the most part.

Something like this - amazon link

Along with the likes of this custom exhaust vent along with some standard ducting and a 4" inline fan.

u/JON-JON-METAL · 3 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Sorry the pictures were supposed to have descriptions with them, it was my first photo post and I got it slightly wrong.

The panels are all replaced with VE Grade 3mm acrylic, optically looks clear but is virtually opaque in UV, Perspex amongst others make it, a full size sheet 2x1mtr is expensive so I would google for somewhere that will cut to size and sell you an off cut large enough to be cut into all 4 panels, (if you want to replace all 4). I used the oem panels as templates, the acrylic drill fine with a wood backing and I used a dremel like tool with a cutting wheel to cut out the panels, I would recommend protection as bits of hot acrylic tend to spin off the blade.

The lights are a couple of pieces of this,, they can be cut every 3 LEDs and wires soldered to the ends. To fit them they have adhesive tape and are taped in the near corners. The proper way to route them would be to strip the printer down and file a slot in the base at the 2 corners, or drill holes big enough in the base to thread the cables through, or the naughty way, remove the screws in the corners, make sure the the sides are not glued with resin or anything. refit the screws and lever a small screwdriver down the side to make a slight gap, enough to route the cables down. Remove the base and fit a suitable switch, I used, discrete and latches. Solder and heatshrink the wiring together and connect to the main connector on the motherboard.

If anyone is interested I can put the stl of the tool holder on thingiverse.

u/DaemonAegis · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Thank you for pointing that one out. I just found on Amazon that the same company makes another, ever more flexible version named, "Tenacious". I'm going to look for Youtube reviews of them both.

u/mecaridley · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

I've been purchasing the official FEP Film replacements here:


So I hope they're the right thickness.

u/nothingbutt · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

This approach came up on the Facebook group:

And control the temperature using one of:

If I do this, I'd personally use an ESP32 microcontroller instead as I have those and like playing with them.

u/ranhalt · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Shake it and strain it (either order). If it's already in your vat, put a funnel and strainer on the bottle and pour it back in. Or use an extra bottle and collect it first and shake it, it should help it strain better.



u/RiffyDivine2 · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

They sell them on amazon, something I googled at random

The goal is the same to filter out any tiny bits of hardened goo. So any fine strainer is likely okay to use.

u/esJamesGuard · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Of course man, also here is a list of the other parts I bought.

MyLifeUNIT 3 Way Duct Connector, Duct Splitter for Exhaust Fan Dryer Vent Hose, 4 Inch Dia. (Y Shape)

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent

iPower GLDUCT4X25C 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Dryer Vent Hose HVAC Ducting, 4", Silver

u/st3ve · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I use this (the 24W version) inside a metal enclosure for reflectivity; works fine.

u/Targoviste · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Anything metal has a very high chance of ripping /tearing the FEP film let alone scratching it, so it's best to use plastic scrapers.

I use
AllwayTools DS15 1.5 Inch 1-1/2"

and haven't had any problems.

u/JaqLerros · 5 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

I see a lot of the ventilation mods for the Photon using the printed backplate for a 4" dryer hose.My wife cannot stand the smell of the resins, and is also very concerned about the long term health effects. So I'm building an enclosure as cheaply as I can.

I've sealed up an Ikea Lixhult ($40) and cut out a 4" hole to attach a hose. I'm probably going to buy the Vivosun Air Filtration Kit as the extractor.

Here's the progress so far.

u/Philodoxx · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

It should yeah. When I got my photon the whole house stank of resin. When I put with a fan on my photon the smell basically went away. It’s still faint in the printer room.

u/Morticide · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

I went with this

Blu by Siraya

I use ChiTuBox and these are my print settings

I do about a 10-15% mix with Anycubic Grey and these are my last print results

Edit: Forgot to add, I cure my model for about 15 minutes before priming.

u/Ayasinato · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I wouldn't sleep while it's running. But the one you linked won't ship to me.
But i found a similarly powered exhaust fan.
This one
I've already found tubing and a filter to use.
As for noise I also have a FDM printer in my room that I run occasionally, so I'm sort of conditioned to it.

u/solitair · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

For vat removal, I got this from an earlier recommendation. FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor...

Works way better than the provided scraper and it is plastic so less chance of damage than a metal one.

u/Logosmonkey · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton
  1. Depends on the resin, some are smellier than others.
  2. Yup that would work, or there's an adapter on thingiverse that allows you to attach 4 inch hose with a extractor fan (that's what I use) and it outputs through a carbon filter. I use this one and use the printer in a small 1 bedroom apartment without issue.
  3. See above :)
  4. Yes but it's near useless. You really have to go with a secondary fan/filter combo to get any serious filtration.
u/CobraMode- · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Siraya Tenacious is VERY hard to break. There have been posts on the Epax X1 facebook group where a guy throws and kicks around a print, and it doesn't break at all.

u/iggygames · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I picked up a pack of the FEP Film for UV 3D Printers from The 3D Club on Amazon. You get 4 sheets, but you can cut them in half for 8 sheets for $19.95. Saw a review on these for the Photon so I decided to try them, haven't had the chance yet, however.

u/tharisamakiir · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Admittedly once I had success with the manual method I've stuck with it.

The different gap sizes at z=0 makes me wonder.

  • The manual states "the purpose is to adjust the distance between the 2k LCD screen and platform to about a piece of paper thin." Some paper is 0.1mm thick leaving no gap since since the FEP is larger at .15mm.
  • Flint Read instructs pressing up 3 times at 0.1mm after cinching the plate to the FEP indicating a gap of 0.3mm.

    That's a seemingly big difference given the trouble folks appear to have with "unleveled" build plates. Am I missing something?
u/Molten_Plastic · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I can drop a 28mm miniature from 10 feet to a concrete floor, and nothing happens to it printed in Sariya Blu. It's legit. And, it's cheap as shit. You get 1 LITER for $49.99.

u/Pyperman · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I had something similar, but it wasn't beefy enough to pry the prints off the buildplate..

It totally flexed and slipped and cut my finger!


Re: plastic scraper that comes with the Photon: Arg- I guess I misunderstood, I thought that was for the buildplate. It's for failed prints in the vat! That makes much more sense.. I tried to use it on my first few prints and it totally failed