(Part 2) Top products from r/Aquariums

Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.

I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.

Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.

Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.

Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!

Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.

You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.

Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.

For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.

For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.

Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.

final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.

Good luck!

Turquoise cutie <3 She looks a lot like a betta I had a few years back. Signs of yours being a girl: chubbier shape, shorter fins, egg spot (salt-speck on her belly).

The gender isn't always known, especially on the baby bettas. Someone takes a quick look and decides "boy" or "girl". One of my current ones was labeled "girl" but "her" fins started growing long, and his beard started growing out, and he started getting upset at every little thing...

Now that your question is answered, on to something more important.

This can be a passionate and sometimes hostile environment, but everyone else is spot-on - your fish would be happier in a bigger home. Let me tell you my personal experience. I've kept betta in bowls and I've kept betta in aquariums, and I can tell you that a betta in an aquarium is like an entirely different animal. They get so beautiful and develop so much personality when they're given a better space. A larger, filtered aquarium reduces maintenance for you, too. My two tanks get maybe 15 minute of maintenance each per week, with just one partial water change during the week, and they both stay sparkling clean. /r/plantedtank and /r/nanotank can show you just how much a nicely-kept aquarium can contribute to your home decor as well!

Pet stores will tell you that a quart of water changed once a week is fine, but that's because they can make ten times as many $30 sales of bowl, decor, and fish as they can $80 sales of tank, decor, heater, and fish. Also, they'd love to see you in again in a few month's time to buy another fish. :(

/r/bettafish has a great care sheet with some advice. To start you out with, I have this tank and it's fairly cheap and super sleek. Add an $18 heater from Amazon and transfer the decor over from your present tank and you'll be money. Bigger is better if you can swing it, but if you're on a budget or don't have much room, 3.7 gallons will make a nice studio apartment for your fishy friend. There are store-brand 10 gallon setups that are even cheaper (Walmart's Aqua Culture, Petsmart's Top Fin/Grrreat Choice) and you can often find used ones for cheap or even free if you look around on Craigslist/Offerup/Letgo/etc., go to garage sales, or look at thrift stores.

Setup Questions:
1.
If you're looking to have planted tank, check out real substrates that can grow plants better. I originally bought Sand by Imagitarium at Petco and thought it would work , but found out that this was just finely blended gravel and had no nutrients in the substrate.

http://aquariumadviser.com/best-substrate-planted-tank/

I am currently using the Eco-Complete and my plants seem to grow really fast in them . You can use those "Flourish tabs by seachem , but I haven't experiment them enough to see any changes . My Anubias lasted like 3 months until a plastic ornament melted one of the limbs that touched it and turned all brown and transparent. It's a hardy plant, but right now it seems to turn black from some kind of algae that's ruining the other limbs.

2.
Look into this heater. I have this in my Marineland 5 gallon and my Top Fin 10 gallon . It keeps it at a constant 78-80 degrees. It automatically turns on and shuts off by itself. Depending on the room temperature it can go up to 79-80, but the heater shuts off around 78 and just turns on and off on its own . I think its great and even have an extra one in-case I need a backup.

3.
Look up "seachem stability" as well. Prime dechlorinates water, but you still need a bacteria to help the culture of bacteria to build to keep ammonia 0 , nitrite 0 , and nitrates fine . It's a good bacteria to cycle the tank and does not require any refrigeration like other live bacteria. I've used API quick start, but it was okay. I think I needed patience which was the key. There's also Tetra safe start, and Dr. Tim's nitryfing bacteria, but all these vary if you look at reviews on different experiences.

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500069473&sr=8-1&keywords=50w+heater

4.
Look up different bacterias like quick start, seachem stability, tetra safe-start, Dr Tim's Bacteria , and any of these should speed up and/or help your cycling process. I still add them when I do water changes as well.

5.
I originally added a betta running my tank 1 week thinking it was good, but didn't realize how long cycling can take. The problem with doing a fish cycle, is that you need a hardy fish to create ammonia to help start up the process. Some people think its not humane, since this can burn out the fish in bad waters. My original betta survived long enough and one week after it was finished cycling, he sank to the bottom (RIP Chiron).

Betta is apparently good for doing a fish cycle, since they use the air in the top of the water to breathe if the water is not cycled. Problem with this , it burns out their gills and can cause problems in the future with them . This is probably what happened to my original betta.

(As Bad as it sounds , I have a female betta in my 5 gallon I'm cycling right now and she looks worse everyday. I had to move her from the 10 gallon I had , because the other fish was picking her fins because she was a baby and still small. I'll have to see what happens next)

Maintenance :

1. 
   
   You can use sites like Aqadvisor.com and it will let you add the fish you have and the filter you have, along with the size. Choose 5Gallon and add the list of fish you have and it will tell you how many percentage is recommended depending on the stocking level you have. (This site is REALLY helpful , since lots of ppl online will say you're overstocking your tank all the time)
   
   2.
   Online instructions say:
   Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons)
   
   If you have a syringe it's easier.
   
   IF 5ml is for 50Gallons, then 1mL is for 10 Gallons. Then half of 1mL is 0.5 mL for 5 gallons .
   
   Whew that's a lot of information . Let me know if you have any questions . I've had my aquarium for about 4 months now and I've done a LOT of research , so these are all my test and trials for these things and I see that I would ask these same questions and would tell you from my experience and what I've learned.
   
   If you have any other questions about plastic ornaments, I would look into real wood/decorations for a more natural aquarium, but I'm bearly getting into this and is a lot more money, research , and work .

I have always used Fluval canister filters, and they work great for me. You should be able to get a nicely over powered one for even less than that. Here's one on amazon. I have two of them, one on a 70 gallon and one on a 55. One is about a year old and the other is about three years old. No broken parts, but the smaller one did start to drip a bit. It just needed a $10 replacement seal and it was as good as new. Honestly, it was my fault for never lubricating it to keep it from drying out. Other than that they work well. I have duckweed in my tanks and it hasn't let any get as far as the impeller, which would be disastrous.

Also, Sunsun is kind of an off brand but very economical. They come with a low powered UV sterilizer built into the canister which is pretty cool. It does have an on/off switch just for the UV, so you can leave it off until you need it to clear up algae or something. They don't come with any media, just some thin foam inserts that aren't good for much, but overall it is a great value. There is also a lot of room in these for custom media, which is nice. The fluvals have baskets as well, but only for half of the canister and the other half you are limited to using foam strips. The Sunsun is nothing but large baskets filling the canister with a hole down the middle for flow and the UV light. Here's a Sunsun on amazon.

I've noticed prices on canister filters go up and down quite a bit on amazon. I was shopping for one a few weeks ago and saw that the largest Sunsun was about $150. I waited a couple days and it went down to $100 and I snagged it. It just got here and the thing is absolutely massive. Lots of room to play with. I haven't started using it yet, so I can't tell you much about the quality and effectiveness, but all of the accessories (pipes, spray bars, etc.) aren't the best quality, but certainly not cheap feeling.

If you want to really have some fun you could easily build your own canister filter. Just get a wet/dry fountain pump and the proper adapters to connect it to some PVC tubing and some flexible tubing to go up to the aquarium. Get some 6" PVC to use as the canister and some large media socks to fill up and drop in. You can get some bulk foam to use for mechanical filtration and wedge those in there as well. Be sure to add stages of mechanical filtration, getting more and more fine as the water progresses. You can get a power head to pull the water back into the aquarium for about the same as the Sunsun or less. This would probably be the best quality of all the options since you could, if you wanted, have a few feet of of the 6" PVC, holding more biological media than any other canister. Also, with this you could customize the amount of flow, which would be nice for the betta.

Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.

I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.

If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:

• Buy a new tank. preferably a big one like a 75G at least since you'll probably want a lot of fish and some of those fish will need a good size tank. I think 75G minimum is the perfect size for beginner as oppose to 55G because of the width. It gives you comfort zone for a lot of fish. Look for it on craiglist first, and be patient. Of course you can get bigger tank if you want
  
  
• You'll need substrates. I personally like Eco-Complete. $22.99 on Amazon. You can also have a layer of sand on top. I use pool filter sand. Something like this
  
  
• You'll need light. 7000k Light is great for plants. LEDs will save you tons of money in the long run. Personally recommend Finnex. They simply have the best LEDs out there. There is a used one on Ebay for very cheap. link I don't know how much I can trust them, I personally would buy a new one if I have the money.
  
  
• You'll need plants. If you live close by Miami, I can give you a few good places to go to. If not your LFS can provide you with these. There is also a seller on Ebay called FishRUs who has some very good plants. You can start with amazon swords, anubias, or whatever plants you want. You'll make mistakes and kill plants, but that's what we humans do. Just make sure you utilize google.
  
  
• You'll need fertilizers. Don't waste your money on Seachem. Read this page Fertilizer can be purchased here
  
  
• You'll need a CO2 system. Aquatek Mini for 87.99 + CO2 tank $26.59. Then go to a local paintball shop and refill your CO2 bottle for $3-4.
  
  
• Water change. You can use Aqueon Water Changer $27.99 you can also buy the 50FT version if you need. You won't regret this buy, trust me.
  
  
• You'll need a filter. Sunsun Canister Pro Kit $97.99 Probably the best canister out there for this price. You can go FX5 if you have the money.
  
  
• Purigen filter media ~$20
  
  
• API Test Kit $22.99
  
  
• There are a wide variety of cichlid. I don't know what you like, but I personally LOVE South America cichlids. These fish are also compatible with your gouramis. You can get a few rams, and 4 angelfish to begin. Discus are beautiful, but don't try it until you feel comfortable with the basics and do enough research. Along with those, you can also get some tetras and corys catfish.

1. That's fine. Price will vary a lot based on what equipment you get. I would expect to pay around $100-200 for the full setup though.
   
2. Yes, that would work. I do this on my 20g long.
   
3. I use the hth brand of pool filter sand. I'm sure other pfs work fine as well. You don't need any special substrate other than that. Some plants that you get may need root tabs if they are heavy root feeders. You should also invest in some fertilizers if you plan on growing lots of plants and not just the typical moss jungle that shrimp like.
   
4. Your best bet for a no fertilizer plant is going to be mosses. Shrimp like mosses a lot, so it's a good idea to have for shrimp tanks.
   
5. Okay
   
6. Strips are unreliable and shrimp are very sensitive to certain water parameters. You should get the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. To be safe, I would also get the Cu (copper) and GH/KH test kits.
   
7. Shrimp food and a light. They'll eat basically anything and can survive off of natural biofilm and algae, but you should try feeding them occasionally to see if their natural food isn't enough for them. There are lots of shrimp foods out there. I like feeding Shirakura shrimp food since it doesn't seem to pollute the water even after several hours. For lighting, I like my NICREW lights. I have this running on my 20g long and all of the plants and shrimp in that tank have done great. I do dose plant fertilizers though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/
   
8. I've had good luck with AquaticArts. msjinkzd (Rachel O'leary) and Flip Aquatics are also pretty reputable, but I've never ordered from them.
   
9. Cuttlefish bone is available at most pet stores that also sell bird stuff. Spinach is also a good natural food with calcium in it. You can look up how to make snello since that would help shrimp too.

The water changer you have is perfectly fine, though if it's too big it wouldn't hurt to find something smaller. For my Betta tanks I have the Marina Gravel Vac in the Mini size and I find it allows me to go through all my gravel and clean up the excess poop and such and in the process end up doing about a 50% change. I do this once a week. If all you've been doing is letting the siphon sit in the tank or skimming it over the top of the rocks, you're doing it wrong.

Start at one corner of your tank and plop it into the gravel, let it suck up waste, lift and move a few inches over and plop it back in. Continue doing this until the gravel in the tube hits the halfway mark and then just lift it a few inches to let the gravel fall out. Rinse and repeat until you've cleaned all gravel. If this is what you currently do, keep on doing it!

So, how often do you to a 25% change? If once a week, keep doing so but maybe try 35% and see how it goes. If once every two weeks, bump that to every week.

Non-adjustable heaters are notoriously bad. I've yet to find one that doesn't completely suck to be honest. 99% of them will only heat a small tank a few degrees above ambient room temperature which isn't ideal unless you keep your house a whopping 75°F year-round. For example, say you keep your house (or even the room yours tanks are in) at 68°F. Typically, standing water will always be 3-5° cooler. So with a tank that's roughly 63° - 65°F, a non-adjustable heater will only bring the temp up to 68° - 72°F. Sometimes they'll be unreliable and overheat your tank as well, more so if you do keep a warm house. Hopefully I explained that well enough! I'm admittedly pretty bad at wording things.

The smallest and probably cheapest adjustable heater you'll find is probably the Hydor Theo 25w which is good for 2 to 7g tanks. I exclusively use these for my bettas and love them. Never had a problem so far and it's been about a year of use already! I have mine set consistently to 78° and they keep a steady temp with maybe 1-2° variation on warmer days now that it's coming into spring here. It evens out nicely year-round though so I don't have to worry about boiling my betta babies.

Let us know the temp once you've got some thermometers going and if at all possible it'd be great to know your ammonia readings as well. Most pet stores will test your params for free if you ask. Too warm water can be just as detrimental as too cold and alongside a water parameter issue, could be the cause of your problem. Keep us updated and good luck!

I also started my first saltwater tank a few weeks ago and I'm 14. Now I went for a nano and it went just fine. First you need to learn about cycling. This is probably the most important thing. Ammonia and nitrite are extremely toxic to fish. There are bacteria colonies that make these into nitrates, the nitrates are only harmful in large quantities. Fish waster produces ammonia, which is transformed into nitrites by bacteria which is transformed into nitrates by bacteria. When you setup your tank, you need to throw a deli shrimp inside to produce ammonia. Then, with testkit you will test the water until you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitirites and less then 20 ppm of nitrates. Nitrates are removed through water changes. You will need ocean salt, RO/DI water, a heater, a hydrometer, a test kit, sand, live rock, a powerhead, and a filter. First you clean up the tank. Then you add sand that has been rinsed. Mix your saltwater and fill the tank about halfway. For a 20 gallon, I would purchase around 30 pounds of live rock. Place the rock in the position you like. The live rock is probably the most important thing in the tank. It houses the bacteria that keeps your fish from dying. This should be done within 2 hours. When satisfied with the placement, fill the tank up. Let it run for a day with the heater, filter and powerhead on. Check for leaks. Also, when making saltwater test it with the hydrometer do the specific gravity is between 1.021 and 1.026. Most fish prefer 1.024. The next day drop in the shrimp ad start testing. It will take around 3 weeks until your tank is ready for fish sometimes longer. The cycling process cannot be rushed. Any fish placed in earlier will DIE. Now, you wait. Also pH can be an issue. Use a marine buffer to take care of this. Algae is a bitch in saltwater and you will need a good cleanup crew. Go to reefcleaners.org and look at their recommendations and go from there. What do you plan on stocking? Use aqadvisor.com to see if you will be okay. Don't buy any products that claim to provide bacteria and shorten the cycle. They don't work and result in dead fish. When you get your fish, use the drip acclimation method for 2 hours before placing them in your tank.
Here's some supplies you will need
http://amzn.com/B000260FUW
Inside the filter, remove the carbon and add this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
Also, put pieces of live rock inside the filter.
http://amzn.com/B000256EUS
Use saltwater when doing a water change and use reverse osmosis or distilled water to replace water that has evaporated every 2-3 days. Draw a small line at where the water should be so you know how much to add.
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
When measuring salinity, hold the hydrometer and tap it a few times to get rid of bubbles which can affect the results. A refractometer is more accurate but more expensive.
http://amzn.com/B0002A5W9M
This is a pretty good buffer.
You will need around 25-30 pounds of Sand which you can get at your local fish store as well as the live rock.
These are some good heaters
http://www.petmountain.com/product/aquarium-heaters/11442-526438/viaaqua-quartz-heaters.html
http://amzn.com/B001VMSK0I

Order a few of these for accurate temp measurement
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A

This is a good high quality fish food and there is a lot of it for a good price
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK

For a background I like all black backgrounds so I got this for my tank
http://amzn.com/B002DWVIBI

I wouldn't suggest doing corals because they are pretty hard and sensitive.

As for lighting, this is pretty good http://amzn.com/B008K37X7C
But I don't know your tank dimensions. Someone else could probably offer better advice on lighting and what powerhead to get. Powerheads are also necessary.

Try to get a glass canopy for your tank. They are pretty useful.

Here's some pictures of my tank, I also did a planted 30 gallon last year when I was 13.

http://imgur.com/WTMuqma

http://imgur.com/AhfkVu2

http://imgur.com/8X69aA1

http://imgur.com/meI9XCH

http://imgur.com/UFGoJYU

http://imgur.com/AN3juZa

My freshwater tank

http://imgur.com/Uvw0iM

http://imgur.com/wbWgKPY

http://imgur.com/jIJs0x5

http://imgur.com/HnkVhau

I'm going to make a price list off of memory....

All in $$$

API master test kit: 18 (confirmed)

10G tank: 15 (confirmed)

Lid: ~10 (Memory, it has a plastic strip in the back. Designed so you can cut off parts of it to make room for cords and/or filters, basically customizable to your hearts desire.

Filter: Whisper 3i, acceptable if you have a single betta in your tank: <10 (Comes with a small air pump. You will need something bigger if you want to maximize the potential bioload of your 10g. Refill cartriges will check out to be ~$1.50 apiece, and each lasts one month.)

: Side note: I like to use sponge filter for my Betta, in his planted tank. They provide adequate filtration, and a slow enough flow that the betta is not disturbed. I currently use this guy, as the double filter design allows me to clean half of it per water change, preventing a complete filter cycle reset. As a bonus, you don't have to buy cartridges for it; just swish the foam around in old tank water. Costs $5. Downside: Being a no-name filter, there's no "proper" way to calculate maximum bioload. You'll need to spend time monitoring parameters if you ever want to push the limits. Also, I use it in a PLANTED tank. Plants tend to cost a bunch of money, ~$5 for 2 depending on where you get them. But I find them worth it.

On that note: Plants: $20 (Optional.)

Seachem prime (Water conditioner): ~$5. The bottle has lasted me more than 6 months between 2 tanks, so it'll likely last you a full year.

Food: ~$2 per month. Varies depending on what you buy and how much you use. Expect an initial cost of ~$10.

Edit: Added: Substrate. Sure, you could get a bag of rocks for lotsa $$$ from petsmart or whatever. But, a tip I got from this subreddit, Black Diamond Blasting Sand. Apparently $10. And it's more than you'll need, so if you upgrade to a larger tank, you won't need to spend $$$ getting more substrate (in theory...) Just make sure to rinse it off somehow, before adding it to your tank.

Edit: Added: Lighting. Just use an old lamp. It is advised to change the bulb out with an aquarium-specific bulb, but it won't kill you to run with a household CFL bulb. You may need to fight algae though... use an old credit card or gift card as a cheap scraper, and consider adding 1 or 2 snails, such as nerite snails or mystery snails. Cheap at your LFS, or from your local breeder.

Total: Pretty sure there's an error... but, $65 $75. Assuming you spring for the $5 no-name filter (and not buying the whisper) and skimp out completely on plants. Of course, this is a very specific cost for a very specific tank setup of 1 fish.

Edit: Oh, I totally forgot substrate. Lemme check here.... Um.. gimme a sec.

Edit: Done! Though it should be noted, as you gain more experience, you tend to gain more items. For example, I bought a table just to set my aquarium on. $20 at my local thrift store. I should really have it set on a matt of some sort, so that it doesn't bend, and end up costing me a new aquarium. Another $10. I realized test tubes are fragile. A spare pack of 25 and a plastic test tube stand, $35. Various medications, small droppers to accurately adminsiter seachem prime, cheap disposable gloves for chemicals, lights, lamps, bulbs... it does add up. Bear in mind that $75 is a minimal setup, and it will likely end up costing you more. (Especially if you have to buy a stand... better hope you have a sturdy table & matt, or are able to build one yourself with exact tolerances!)

Edit: Oh my gosh. I forgot a heater. A necessity in ANY tropical aquarium. That's going to run you around $15-20 for a good one, you want one with an adjustable thermostat. They're more dependable, and of course, adjustable. Gonna need a thermometer with that too, though I've personally had trouble finding a reliable one. Some say my tank is 76 degrees, other say it's 80+. Personally, I use the fish's behavior as a sign. Make sure the fish is not gasping for air near the surface, and if they do, turn it down at least 2 degrees, closer to 4.

Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.

You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.

Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.

Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.

If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.

Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.

Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.

Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.


Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.

Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.

Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.

If you're purely looking for aesthetic light and not plant growth then all you really want is a strong LED like this one that will cover the tank in nice white light.

If you're interested in growing plants I've heard good things about this clip light on nano aquariums like the edge specifically.

If your edge is your only aquarium, or one you're particularly passionate about, then I would recommend the upgrade to the planted+ light if it's affordable for you. Shrimp love live plants and algae growth, and there are a lot of really great looking aquascaping options for the edge if you have a good light.

If you do opt for the planted+ and end up wanting to plant the aquarium a la /r/plantedtank then I'd personally recommend DIY yeast or citric acid CO2 bottle generators. For $20 on amazon you can get the 2L bottle kit and a CO2 diffusion disk, a kit I've personally used to great effect on a 30g. For a little edge tank you'd be able to grow a lush garden (just make sure your O2 stays up enough for your shrimp).

Wow, thanks for taking the time to provide an in depth answer!

Im currently looking at this Fluval Spec V; though I cant tell if its version 1 or 2 (im thinking its the newer model, since Amazon lets you know if there is a newer version available).

In regards to plants, I have a leaf hammock and a plastic log, and I will be adding more (silk), but wont be ordering from amazon; im also looking to add driftwood and some live plants.

As far as live plants go, I think I understood that its better to cycle without them, as they could alter the process as they feed on ¿nitrate?. So I would add them later on. What do you think?

Id rather go with Seachem Stability, just because of the ease of measurring.

Ive since added Fluval Spec Carbon Filter replacement and Fluval Spec Bio Max.

Read on several websites that the current could be too strong for a betta, and the sponge cover seemed like an easy fix.

For substrate, I will most likely get gravel.; would love to have sand (too hard to care for as a begginer?) or ADA Africana (weight/cost).

Will check at my LFS for quality substrate, but have low expectations.

As for stock, I would like to add shrimp (ghost and/or RCS) but once my tank is established and settled. In reality, I would love to have Khukli Loaches (3) but general consensus is that a 5g is way too small.

Ill be looking into other bottom feeders (fish), but it doesnt seem I will be able to add them to a 5g.

Hows your setup, what do you have?

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

• The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning
  
  
• What fish can fit in your tank
  
  
• Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive
  
  As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
  
  
• 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)
  
  
• Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)
  
  
• Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.
  
  
• Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)
  
  
• Decent lights
  
• Small heater or an appropriate size
  
  There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

This is a great tank! From what I can see he has vibrant colors and healthy fins. If Caboose is 10 months old; his current living conditions are maintained, he will live to the full potential of his life span which is 4 to 5 years. Make sure he has enough space at the top of the tank to surface and "breathe", which is important to prevent infections in his labyrinth organ (an organ evolved for absorbing CO2 and oxygen from the air.)

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I like the idea of more plants, if I may give some suggestions? Floating plants in my experience are very good for Betta fish and really most fish in general! It allows me to 'filter' out the light so it isn't shining directly into the tank which may become too intense and stress fish out. Salvinia or 'water moss' is a personal favorite, I also like duckweed, and water lettuce. However you have to be careful because plants like these, especially duckweed, will grow really fast and has to be trimmed a lot.

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Useful links to you I have on hand;

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Cheap API testing kits

Expensive API testing kit (I highly recommend this one)

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https://www.aquariumcoop.com/

https://www.thegreenmachineonline.com/

https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/

https://www.liveaquaria.com/

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No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.

Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)

Heres a good list of plants that you can read up on

Heres another good easy plants list

another list go easy plants/details

Easiest plants - Java moss, Anubias plants, Java Fern

For substrate i'd recommend going for ... 2 routes to use

1. Sand substrate and add flourish tabs
   
   
2. Going substrate that has ferts already - Eco complete add this at the bottom and top it off with some black sand like this
   
   After you do all that and pick up w.e plants you like. You need to buy liquid fertilizers to dose/make your plants healthier.
   
   You can also go the CO2 route but if this is expensive, go for the cheap route and buy Seachem Excel (liquid co2)
   
   

   Lighting:
   

   
   This is the best kind of lighting you can grab
   
   Or this one
   
   I can vouch for the Planted+ I have that and it grows my plants really well/amazing, down side you'll have algae (but thats what algae cleaners are for ;)) Also I use sand + flourish tabs for rooted plants.
   
   

   Tip:
   

   
   Root plants need flourish tabs (if you just go the sandroute) but if you grab the eco complete you wont really need tabs since thats already fertilizers.
   
   Plants that dont need to be buried in the substrate (anubias plants/java fern) youll need liquid ferts
   
   If you do go for anubias/java fern/java moss - buy driftwood and tie them down with some fishing line (they do best when tied to driftwood)

Yes, it’s actually pretty awesome breeding box, I can’t recommend it enough. Easy to clean, super easy to set up. Just hang an airline to the pump and good to go.

Got it from Amazon for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

If it gets really cold in your room, you may want to hang it close to your heather though.

I'm not 100% sure but as far as I know that would just aerate the water rather than filter it. Bettas breathe oxygen at the surface of their water so extra aeration is unnecessary. There's also sponge filters that use bubblers with tubing and those are supposed to be great but can take up a lot of space.

I have only used hang-on-back filters because they don't take up space inside the tank. This is a well-reviewed HOB filter that would be hella dope for your tank and totally budget-friendly. It has an adjustable flow but if it's still too much for your betta just look up "DIY filter baffle" and you can baffle it up so it'll be nice and gentle.

NINJA EDIT - Also since you don't have a cycled filter yet make sure to do lots and lots of water changes. If you can test the ammonia, do it frequently. Your buddy can survive a cycle if you are consistent with water changes. Like a gallon every 2 days or so. Take out a gallon, treat a fresh gallon of water from your tap with conditioner, put it back in. Buy a $2 bucket from Walmart, don't use an old one because CONTAMINATION!

1. Flow is always tricky. You want good movement through everything, but you want the sand to stay down. 300gph in powerheads might be enough, but that will depend on your rock layout and what animals you want to have. Some need more flow than others.
   
   
2. "Basic" hang-on-back (hob) filters are good for adding a bit of extra water volume and flow. But for actually filtering the water, live rock is your main filter. I have an aquaclear 20 on a 2.5g tank right now, its filter chamber is empty at the moment (to increase flow), but I might fill it with live rock rubble one of these days. External canister filters I haven't tried, but hear very mixed opinions on how well they work for saltwater. I would stick with live rock as your main filter.
   
   2a) Refugium filtration! My 2.5g has one of these on it, acting as a refugium and gravity filter. In it is about 3/4" of sand from an established tank, with a small layer of sea shells tossed in to give more hiding places for copepods/amphipods/mysis. It also has a huge spaghetti worm in it that does a great job at cleaning. Basically the refugium is a low-flow environment that lets waste drop out through gravity, with places for small invertebrates to live and eat that waste. You can buy dedicated hob refugiums that will likely fit a 20g tank no problem.
   
   
3. You're going to want salt to spare in general, so you're not surprised in an emergency. Buy a pail if you can afford it, but if you can't, enough for 2 setups and a couple water changes should be good for now.
   
   
4. T5 and T8 are incompatible from what I understand -- I have little experience with bulbs. I always recommend LED. Bulbs need replacing often, and worse, they break!
   
   
5. If you go LED, the 10W per gallon doesn't apply. Lighting is tricky. I would recommend LEDs.
   
   
6. This one is totally up to you, there's advantages and disadvantages for both.
   
   Hope that helped some! Best of luck!

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

As someone who loves both aquariums and interior design - please god no. Get a nice coffee table then put a nice rimless tank on top. Look at how pretty this one is. Put in a beautiful betta fish or fill it with shrimp. Good beginner fish.

EDIT: changed suggested tank, this one has a better filtration system. (It's also the same one I have.)

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

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I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

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OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

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Thanks!!

Hey friend! I skipped a couple because others have answered.

1.I have no experience with that brand, but if you decide to replace the filter this is a great one for a 5G with a single betta. Low flow sponge filter, very little noise. I have it in two betta tanks.

4.Pellets make less of a mess. 3-4 pellets a day, I try and split it into two meals. A betta's stomach is about the size of his eye, and they bloat very easily which can cause health problems such as swim bladder issues. A lot of people fast them once a week. Of note, they can go a few days without food fairly easily, so it's better to fast over a short weekend trip than to use one of those little dissolving feeder things, those are awful.

6.(and 7)You can easily do pool filter sand (won't affect the water chemistry at all, betta will not eat) with a bunch of different low tech plants and not worry about much else. This is my 10G with ludwigia, wisteria, anubias, and amazond sword. No tabs, no CO2, I just turn the light on and off. Java fern is also a great low tech plant. I'd suggest not overthinking it at first. You can certainly do more with ferts/CO2/etc if you want, but you don't have to.

8.Live plants won't help cycling, but they will help lower your nitrates once the cycle is established. You want to cycle with no fish in the tank, using straight up ammonia with no surfactants in it, asit allows you more control over how much ammonia you're putting in. You can speed up the process with either a piece of filter from someone else's cycled tank, or with additives like Safe Start and the like. There is a ton of info on cycling in the Helpful Links, so check that out.

Cheers!

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU I just saw this the other day at petsmart too.

It should only be powerful enough to lift a little bit of gravel at a time, if the gravel makes it to the top of the chamber then it's too strong. I've never run a tank with anything other than sand so I have no personal experience vacuuming a tank. You also shouldn't have to remove anything unless you want to, but I would recommend it(at least a couple times a year) because a lot of waste collects near decorations because they disturb the water flow and let it sit without be cleaned away by the filter. A lot of people stir up their gravel or sand a little bit before siphoning, that way since you've only got a little bit of water to siphon, most of the crap will be ready and waiting at the top of the gravel.

Also with filtration, carbon is only necessary to clean meds out of the water, but it can extend your water between changes. I used use carbon 24/7 but it has to be replaced pretty often, now I go without and just do more water changes, the water smells and looks just as good. So in the long run only use it if you need it for sure.

About using gloves, if that makes you more comfortable handling decorations and such then go for it, but honestly I'd be worried about the gloves leeching something nasty into the water, I just rinse and dry my hands and arms before handling anything in the tank.

The thing is with fish is that they prefer consistent conditions over ideal conditions, so if your levels are way out of range for your fish, you can shock them by correcting it too quickly, so just do whatever you can not to stress the fish.

If you decide to go with catfish or algae eaters, then use less salt than what I recommended, about half a dose because catfish are irritated by it more so than most fish. I think I may have killed both of my candycane plecos with salt. And to be clear, never use iodized table salt. Salts are going to keep your fish free from ick and parasites and fungus better.

Welcome back to the tank hobby!

Well water is actually something a lot of hobbyists are jealous of because they tend to have less additives compared to tap water. Depending on whether you're going to do freshwater or saltwater, you're going to want a master test kit for testing the water for chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, etc. If you want a more convenient method, the Tetra 6 in 1 Freshwater Test Strips are a more faster way to test your water, but it is not as accurate as the master kits. You'll also want a GH & KH Test Kit to see what kind of fish will thrive the most in your water. A TDS Meter can also help test the "Total Dissolved Solids" in your water which is important if you're going to do saltwater or neocaridina or caridina shrimp. Good luck man and welcome back!

Do you know what kind of cichlids and catfish you have? There aren't many that are appropriate for a 15 gallon tank as they will grow too large.

An aquaclear 30 would work well for the tank and it's not too expensive. You can use play sand as a substrate, but you have to rinse it really well before you put it in the tank. You can get it from home improvement stores or Walmart for cheap. Good plants would be any low light, hardy plants like anubias, water wisteria, java ferns, anacharis, etc. and they can be bought from petsmart, petco, any other local fish stores, or online.

When you're renovating the tank you can keep them in a large bucket with a bubbler.

To piggyback off of Betta fish, besides the tank you can get your filter, heater, and light for pretty cheap.
Here's what I have:

filter
Air pump
light
heater

Altogether it might not be the cheapest items, but they work fantastic for me and my Betta and shrimp tank. Plus it costs less to get good filters and supplies first than it is to buy a beginner set and upgrade everything over time like I did.

this is what it all looks like in my tank.

I absolutely hate tetra filters. They are junk. My top fin filter actually worked pretty well but it just didn’t last very long. It sounds like yours is really good though. You can’t go wrong with adjustable flow either. If you ever need another or get a bigger tank you should check this aqua clear filter out. I got it after my top fin quit working and I love it. It’s adjustable too and they have them for all different size tanks.

Thank you for the great reply! :) I know already I will feel sorry for the baby fish and the eggs, but nature and its course etc :)

So if one keeps the fry and grows them up... What do you do then? Can someone sell to a store if they're pretty? Not like I'm interested in breeding, just curious.

As for the filter, I was thinking of this one.
What do you think?

This kind of sponge filter is good, air pump fed filters have slowest adjustable flow. You will have to squeeze it well in old tank water, removed at the time of cleaning, from time to time to keep it clean.

Drawback: noise, and you will need air pump, check valve, double air valve and some flexible air tubing. I know about available in Northern America only, from cheaper kinds, Whisper 10 is relatively quiet, followed y more expensive aPump and Eheim air pump. YouTube shows the ways to make it more quiet, in DIY way.

Next, is Azoo Mignon 60 or Deep Blue Biomaxx, not much place for filter media. Or Marina S10 with some slowing flow baffle, like a bag of biomedia in overlow, or a piece of sponge or filter floss. Customizable DIY filter media for it is shown on youtube too.

From my humble experience, betta would appreciate cleaner tank and water, with clean filter media, while shrimp could live with Matten filter (it's more expensive too). You can see all of them by doing image search for these terms.

No problem. Give these threads a read and you will understand PAR sufficiently link 1 link 2

At 10000K you're a bit high for most freshwater purposes. Although it is far worse to be low than high. If you can, aim for around 7000K.

That par is low for plants at your substrate. You want to be at least 30 par at your substrate. This would explain some of your algae problems, as insufficient light can cause algae the same as too much light. Insufficient light leads to an imbalance of nutrients where your plants won't be able to take full advantage of nutrients, which is where opportunistic algae will gladly step in.

I have a finnex planted+ 24/7 on my 10 gallon. The nice thing about that one is the intensity is adjustable. Note that you'll probably need a different length and that generally PAR will increase with length since more bulbs are added.

I just put a finnex fugeray on a 55 gallon, but it is really too early to give an accurate statement to its quality since I haven't had it very long and my tank is not yet established. I basically got it because I was satisfied with my other finnex product. So far it looks extremely bright so I think it will do.

And finally I should just reiterate, you will probably have to drop a chunk of change on a quality light. There are many LEDs out there that look bright to us but don't have sufficient penetration for plants. Yet marketers will gladly tell you they are. Make sure you find those readings otherwise don't bother!

I'm two weeks in to my switch from a HOB to a Sunsun canister and I have no clue how I survived without the Sunsun. I love it. It's virtually silent, moved much more water, better flow... I adore it. Very easy to put together(Aside from the pipes, I had to stare at them for a couple minutes and try to find my center of peace). Make sure that you trim your hoses appropriately, though. It makes priming seriously easy.

This is the one I got. Pretty basic, but a great price for what you get! I have it in my 20 tall.

I set my tank up about a month ago. I'm still new, but I've learned a lot so far.

1. I started with basic guppies. I've heard that rasboras, mollies, platies, corydoras, and danios are also very easy to take care of. Here's a list of "beginner" fish.
   
   
2. I started with 37G. It's a bit big. Water changes are frequent things, and the bigger your tank, the more you have to do. That said, the smaller your tank, the more your water condition can fluctuate/spike. I'd recommend a 20G long - the depth of my tank is the most annoying for me.
   
   
3. Yep. I'm doing fish-in cycling, and it's a pain.
   
   
4. Yep. Get one that will run through your entire tank's volume multiple times an hour. You want a filter rated for more than your tank - if you do 20G, and get a 20G-rated filter, you're just baaarely doing enough filtration. Aquaclear has very good reviews.
   
   
5. Probably a couple hundred bucks. Don't forget, you'll probably need a heater, too!

Awesome thank you for the help.

Im thinking of switching out my filter and purchasing this one:

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1457978000&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear

It appears as though this one makes it easier to install the 3 different types of filters rather than the current filter I own.

Can I go ahead and make the switch or is there something I should know? Thanks!

ok. This filter is GREAT for a 10 gallon, but once you get more volume, I would definitely suggest this filter notice the number of dark rings in the filter? This shows the difference in size. This one (each cylindrical piece) is about as big around as a 12 oz soda can and a tiny bit lager (including upper lip and tapered bottom) and is rated for probably ~20 gallons.

The one I suggested in my last post is great for a ten but is about the size (each filter) of 3/4 the height of the inside of a toilet paper roll and about the diameter or that cardboard tube that your find inside the toilet paper or paper towel roll.

Just so you don't buy a huge one or one that won't have the filter power you need. they both need air pumps though.

I really like the bactosurge sponges because they are very fine and tend to polish the water. Problem is they are meant for like 30g and are pretty big. :/. Honestly If you are doing chili rasboras and nano fish, I would get one of those dual-ones that sit on the side of the glass (This style https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/). This could easily support a 20gal tank.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1416628211&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 Thus us a great light kan, it looks nice too. Its par is about 32 for 12 inch deep, and with the 10 percent off, the light is around 48ish bucks. Great deal, its better then the fugeray. Not the planted plus however. Its around half of the planted plus.

Hey, thanks for replying.

The betta I'm caring for now has a lot of personality...he loves to pace the front of the 10g, weaving through the plants. I guess each one is different, but maybe something like this tank would encourage that behavior. I really want a very small footprint though, which is what attracted me to the compact cube design. I just worry that there's not enough space for really swimming in it, you know?

It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.

If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:

• get a standard 20 gallon tank at the dollar per gallon sale ($20)
  
• filter: Aquaclear 30 ($30)
  
• heater: Hydor 50W($20)
  
• lights: Nicrew LED 20-27"($30)
  
  Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.

I'll preface by saying that I know nothingn about salamanders. A hang on filter will pour from the top and probably look cluttered, so I'd try other options first. You could make some sort of waterfall, but it might get really messy if the salamander is always wet and muddy. Not sure, but if you find a way to make it look nice, it might work the best.

A cheaper option would be a sponge filter, which unless you DIY, you'd need to buy the airpump, tubing, and sponge filter online, this would unfortunately have a lot less flow. Here is another alternative and probably what I would do, internal filter. You might prefer a smaller variety, but I chose this one just for reference. What about floating plants btw? Salvinia especially might be a nice plant, but I'm not sure if it will be safe/left alone. If you'd instead like plants under the surface, there's marimo balls, java fern, and anubias. These are all low-light and impossible to "deroot" plants.

I have a 20 gallon that I use two Aqua Clears with. They are simple and inexpensive.


http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381960009&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+30

I had a biowheel but the wheel kept stopping. I think a canister is kinda overkill for such a small tank. Plus, it's expensive. I love the aquaclear's ability to mix and match media. I used the sponge along with some Purigen and ceramic stones for bacteria. The only problem I had was my plants kept fouling the intake tube when bits got caught in there but I simply had to take out the tube and clean it.

I say you get that and if it you like the hobby, then you can invest in a canister.

I have a double tail betta that was never meant to make it, but he has lived an awesome life. Bought him from Petco for 50 cents and they marked him "cosmetically defective." He was only 1/3" long. Now he's almost 1 inch. His spine is a mess and he can't actually be in a real tank because filters throw him around too much. I set up a Marina hang-on breeding box so he gets to use the entire 20 gallon as his sump. He has substrate, plants, decorations, and a floating tube that he sleeps in. His life rules.

Good luck to your guppy, man.

It's a 24oz Paintball CO2 canister and this regulator that is designed to screw right on top paintball size tanks.

Has an electric solenoid so i can plug into my timer and have it shut off over night. I'm very happy with it. It's amazing how much more green everything got after I found a good flow rate.

love my finnix planted+ 24/7.
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463064134&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted


heard mixed reviews about the new fluval leds...

marineland, natgeo, aqueon led rigs don't offer enough light for great growth.

I have 2 of these they work perfectly, but you have to get a turkey baster to get their poop out. Good luck with them! Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZUIsGHEMJ7QeD

theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind

Diffuser System

glass co2 checker

drops co2

bubble counter

The glass spiral diffuser

The 0.7 gallon will likely kill him fairly quickly. I wouldn't hold off too long.

You can do a little bit to make what you've got a bit better. Consider daily water changes (using the conditioner and making sure to temperature match the incoming water). Also make sure to keep the cube at as warm and as stable a temperature as possible (fighters prefer 25-27 degrees C). Ultimately though there's not really much you can do with it (even with the extra work it's far from ideal). I'd recommend an upgrade ASAP.

If budget is a problem, you can use a plastic tub (clean, but without any residue from soap, etc. I recommend new tubs or ones that have been used to store clean, dry stuff (books, etc) only) as a tank. Filters can be had for dirt cheap (like this plus a $10 air pump from petsmart, etc). Heaters are an item you probably shouldn't cheap out on (I like these ones); because you really don't want a heater failure. That will give you a basic, livable situation from that you can then work on over time.

*edit: fixed link

I'm running this filter and it's great.

I do water change once every week and water stays really clean.


The current may be a little bit strong, so I have bunch of floating plant to alleviate that.


As for evaporation, I need to add around 1/3 cup of water every 2~3 days or so for the water to remain at around 90~95%.

Try this one. It says it is for a 60 to 110 but use the selection box like I did in the link.

Does your dad have an API freshwater master test kit? If so,what are the parameters. If not, get one and test the water. Your dad is using distilled water?! Then he also needs to add certain minerals to the water itself. I'd like to know why he's using distilled water.

Here let me price out a decent tank for you.

10 dollars for a 10 gallon tank, dollar per gallon sale at petco

20 dollars for a heater, This one will work with a 10 gallon

10 dollars for sand It's only 5 pounds though so you may need two

30 dollars on a filter, This is on the expensive side, there are much cheaper you could do.

45 for a light. This is a plant light, it can grow plants, you can go cheaper if you don't want to grow plants

After that your only cost is your pets. Aquatics is a expensive hobby but with this set up you could easily do a betta. If you want to skip the heater you could do some shrimp or some other subtropical fish. Filter can be downsized too, I personally like to go with a stronger filter. Light could also be fairly cheap, it's a light to see your animals if you don't wish to use it to grow plants. That's my go to when setting up a new tank.

I got the one below, but I only have a 10 gallon tank. They have larger versions for different tank sizes. I noticed that if you keep the cover off of the top of the filter it makes it even more quiet than it already was to start with. If I weren't in a bind and could have waited for it to ship I would have ordered on Amazon. That is a great price. I paid $40 for that filter in petsmart


https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG?th=1&psc=1

Lots of this info is from my answer in the other thread where you asked, but:

1. There are two effective ways to minimize wild swings in water chemistry: frequent water changes, and increasing your total water volume (sump, large canister filter, etc)
   
2. Maintenance. Do your water changes and cleanings. Test your water regularly. Trim your plants often.
   
3. Light calculation is the greatest debate amongst aquarists. Personally, I go by PAR (Photosynthetic Action Spectrum) which is a measurement of light usable by plants. It is somewhat generally accepted that a PAR below 30 is low light, 31-50 is medium light, and 50+ is high light. Ratings can be found either on manufactuer's specs or by measuring with a PAR meter. Experience and research means I know a 13w bulb + the 1/3w LEDs in the aquarium hood of my nano equate to high lighting.
   
4. High light for carpeting plants, high CO2 to keep algae at bay. You'll want to go pressurized, something like a paintball CO2 setup would be perfect for a nano.
   
   
   A ten gallon is still quite a small tank, with only slightly higher margin for error. You'll have to be bang on your fertilization measurements in either size to avoid catastrophic levels of algae.

I actually will support SunSun- good quality for cheap. This one is great for your tank, I just ordered one too

If you plan on a small tank, I recommend this filter. Really good and totally silent. I have a 2.5 gallon tank right by my bed and I can't sleep with lots of noise, so it was perfect.

I use the Hydor 25watt off Amazon for my 5 gal betta tanks. I’ve only had them at most 5-6 months but theyve been working great, just a little too high so I have it set a little lower than what it reads on the dial. They have 50w on Amazon too tho

edit: Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rnIqDbF7QVGDZ (You can select the size)

Definitely cyanobacteria. I've heard this stuff works well http://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But you should definitely keep the water extra clean. Maybe add some more low light plants to help soak up the nitrates.

The SunSun Filters seem to be the best bang for your buck but I never had them. I have had a fluval 405 for years and I love it but the next one will be a sunsun its half the price.

Sunsun 302

Should you get into the hobby? Of course!

Should you buy the cheap bare tank instead of a normally priced starter kit? Probably.

You'll need an appropriately sized glass lid which is $29 at that link for a 40 breeder. You'll also need a heater ($15ish), most of that same basic design are equally (un)reliable so you could get two smaller ones to improve reliability compared to one large one, but don't worry about brand name.

Then a light, which ranges from $42 suitable for viewing and low-light plants up to a lot more money for high-light suitable LED fixtures.

Then water conditioner such as Prime ($13)

And food for $3-$20, too many choices for me to even suggest one.

Overall this gives a better experience than a starter kit due to higher quality and more versatile... everything. The consumables are also larger than the sample sizes included in kits, though those are big enough to last quite a while anyways. And the equivalent cost starter kit is probably a 30 gallon and this is larger. But the overall cost is $130ish which illustrates that those starter kits are actually a decent value, as well as being convenient.

I've heard nothing but good things about finnex lights. I was also in the market for an led strip and researched for a couple days before purchasing one. I went with the finnex planted it has a 24/7 day/night cycle which is awesome in my book.
Heres a link if you're interested:
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=s9_simh_gw_g199_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=61C6JK3C2YA922GZZ7ZT&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

350$ is more then enough, for a 5 gallon tank. The bigger the tank the less the water quality fluctuates which makes it better for the fish and easier for you to look after. I would advise getting a 5gallon over the 2 gallon.

Read this: http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

and this: http://www.firsttankguide.net/fishlesscycle.php

These 2 links are the most important part of keeping an aquarium. Please read at least one of them before you buy any fish!!!

Keep in mind you can buy most of this stuff used on craigslist for 1/3 of the price, but I'll link you some options for new 5 gallon tanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Marina-Style-Glass-Aquarium-Kit/dp/B0035HBFWM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412914315&sr=1-4&keywords=5+gallon+aquarium

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412914315&sr=1-20&keywords=5+gallon+aquarium

You will probably need a heater -30$, gavel vacuum -15$, water conditioner -20$, nutrafin or api master test kit -40$. ( I recommend nutrafin over api, if your city's tap water contains chloramine)


Things you can keep in a 5 gallon:

Option 1:

• Siamese fighting fish
  
• 2 nerite snails or 5 amano shrimp( make sure they are over 1/2 when you add them)
  
  
  Option 2:
  
  
• 15 cherry shrimp
  
• 3 nerite snails
  
  
  Option 3:
  
  
• 5 Boraras brigittae they get (.7 inches)
  
• 7 cherry shrimp
  
  Here is some info on boras brigittae: http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/boraras-brigittae/
  
  
  
  

This heater is super cheap and really small and works great in my betta tank.

Tetra 26447 Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S.mHzbS3D5D6Y

A betta would be so happy in a 10 g tank

1. You can get a digital TDS (total dissolved solids) meter or the API GH/KH liquid test kit.
   From my understanding, dH (German degree of hardness) is not a specific measurement but rather a conversion to/from ppm (1 dH = 17.5mg/L or ppm).
   
   
2. Snails (even the pest/pond/bladder variety) are generally a good thing. A sudden bloom of snails probably indicates overfeeding, as your snail population directly reflects the amount of food available for them to eat. Less food = less snails. Feeding less and cleaning more should decrease the population, but you might want to keep the ones you have to clean up what's already available in the tank. Afterwards, their population will regulate itself.

Aquaclear filter either this size or the next size up, but not smaller.

Some other lighting options include this one which is brighter than the one you've selected or this one which is both brighter and far more customizable.

Flourite black sand

Fluval heater

5 Peppered Cory
1 Angelfish
1 Gourami
6 Cardinal Tetra
1 Male Blue Ram

No issues with the fish in terms of aggression so far!

No idea what the plants are, just started dosing excel today.

This is the light I have, will it be OK for the plants or should I get something different?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aQMQybDVK40K7


Thanks for all advice in advance :)

I use this [Finnex](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_4_r} on my spec 5 and am very happy with it. Plants are growing like crazy and it looks nice.

When choosing a heater are there ones for different filter sizes? Looking on amazon I'm having a hard time telling.

Edit: Found [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427840524&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+heater+for+aquarium) one. I see that it is a consistent 79 degrees F. Would this be alright?

Also, would it be safe to keep to mollys together in this tank? If not what can I put in the tank with a molly? Also, i read somewhere (sorry I can't provide source) that shrimp and snails help eat the food the fish don't get? Would it be a good idea to get one or no?

Let the downvotes rain on me for this...I've had nothing but good luck with my cheapos from Amazon. I have them on almost all of my planted tanks and love them. Depending on the height off the substrate will depend on whether it's good for low, medium or high light plants.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=sxts_bia_sr1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492993693&sr=1

The best thing about sponge filters is that they are dirt cheap! If you already have a filter for that tank and are adding it just for the extra filtration and added circulation, and if you have an airpump rated for a ~20G, this XY-2822 would work perfectly.

Co2 set ups are unfortunately not cheap. The aquatek mini regulator on a paintball canister seems to be a pretty popular choice. You'll need a diffuser, some co2 "proof" hose, and ideally a Co2 indicator as well, but those things are all cheap little addons.


I personally use liquid Co2 instead of pressurized (shrimp tanks, so I dont want to risk suffocating them), so I cant give a first hand recommendation for any particular system. The folks over at /r/plantedtank surely can though.

Thanks! I didn't want to make people think I was selling a product to them or something... but here's an amazon link to what I bought :)

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526231723&sr=8-2&keywords=breeder+box

Well, at a certain size people start recommending a sump/refugium. A sump of 20 gallons is a so much more capacity for filtration than a HOB could ever be. But they are more difficult to setup.

If I were going to use a HOB for a tank that large, I might just use two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m8Ovxb3MWMDGV

"But why?" you might ask. Two reasons. First it meets the capacity requirements in excess of 40 gallons and better circulates the tank. Second it provides redundancy in case one filter goes down. Another filter you might look at is sponge filters for power outages. Can be used on a battery operated pump and simple to use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_YaPvxbRNYX7J2

You might go the route of canister filter.
This actually doesn't meet the requirements of circulating your total volume ten times in an hour, so be aware of that. A 100 gallon tank might use two of these. Again redundancy is a beautiful thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015JMQRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_QdPvxbAH4274M

I was able to snag an aquarium friendly sponge from the PetCo by me. Yeah just stay away from the carbon lol. If one day you need carbon you can throw a little bit of carbon in a stocking in the filter.

Here is the [light I used] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484759496&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted+plus+24+7).

Waaaaaaaaaay to many of mine do. I used to have sand loaches that ate most of them for population control but my heater failed last month and they didn't make it. Now it's entirely up to my betta and unlike previous ones, he's not much of a fry eater.

Platy fry are different than guppy fry though. My guppy fry hide for the first day or so and then swim around in the open just like the adults. Platies tend to stick at the bottom of the tank and hide so you could have a good number of them and just not be able to see them. My platy fry that are nearing 3wks old are just barely starting to swim out in the open.

I would not raise that fry in a separate container. There is no filtration and no heater, an ammonia spike is highly likely with the decomposing food and the temp will not remain stable. If you want to separate your fry I recommend this HOB breeder box All you'll need is a cheap air pump and some basic air tubing to make it work. I run 3 on my 40gal, mostly for plants nowadays, but it works very well for raising fry as it's constantly cycling tank water through it, so it remains filtered and heated.

If you do start saving the fry, make sure you have plans for what to do with them, be it selling them to a LFS or getting bigger/more tanks.

edit Typos and clarity.

Breeder boxes are fine but you still need a larger habitat overall. I use this one, it is great.

Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OogjusLKNxMrt

Hm. After 8 months, a cycle should be established, unless you added a BUNCH of new fish all of a sudden or added new chemicals. What kind of filter do you have? If you have filters with cartridges, those can be responsible for mini cycle crashes after you replace them, because you basically throw a lot of your nitrifying bateria out with them. Ideally you should have a 3 stage filtration filter with bio media (bio media doesn't get replaced or cleaned, it just hosts bacteria.) I highly recomment AquaClear hang-on filters

I recommend some real plants too. They consume the nitrates produced after the bacteria consumes ammonia.

OP, I'd avoid the Marineland because it has a built in filter. I'd get the Tetra and a nano filter like this one.

I have that filter on my 2 gallon tank, and it's pretty spiffy. I just keep a few cherry shrimp in my little tank.

5 gallons would be enough for a single betta, dario dario, badis badis, or similar solitary fish. A couple of guppies would be fine, but DO NOT mix male and females unless you enjoy being overrun with fry. There are 'micro' fish, too, that you could stock three or four of, but I'm not familiar with any of them.

FIRST OF ALL: Good on you getting a proper tank for your betta!

Here's what I would do with this tank. Take what you want from it.

Lighting: Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED Light, 20-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_QuphybE4CPE6A

I'd get a timer for the light and set it for 8 hours a day.

Substrate: Flourite Black, 7 kg / 15.4 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019J0ISU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nxphybZM3Y2ZD

And add plants. I think moss would be a nice plant to add with that light as well. Maybe every now and then dose some ferts. I think I see a box to which is a filter. So I'll leave out my filter of choice.

If this were my tank for a betta I'd do this (:

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

I use this daily and love it. I only change water twice a month in my big tank so this helps keep it looking clean every day.

This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world

something like this works great. Just google DIY CO2 mixes, get 2 2L pop bottles, and make the mixture. If you get a good one it can last like 2-3 weeks which is pretty much the same as these ones, tho they are a bit of a pain to set up.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI

Really good light but the 24/7 is that it goes through a light cycle, sunrise day sunset night and so on, and it's really pretty to look at when you wake up in the morning and it's a sunrise in your tank.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE?keywords=finnex%20LED&qid=1458596344&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

For my 10G and it's been great. Lots of plant growth.

Amazon link with information: http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

That is a neat tool. Thanks for the video.

The eheim is a vacuum that recirculates the water, so you can clean all the junk off the substrate between water changes. I would have never spend the money is cichlids weren't such nasty critters, lol,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5U2SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506288299&sr=8-3&keywords=eheim+gravel+vac&dpPl=1&dpID=31cLttovLeL&ref=plSrch

I think thats fair! This is the one I got This is the original then yeah?

this video pretty much explains it I bought everything I needed from Amazon & big Al's

[diy system](ZJchao DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4JwzybTHT4HK9)

Citric acid I bought from Amazon and baking soda was from grocery store

[3 in 1 diffuser, bubble counter, check valve. I live in Canada I bought it from Big Al's](Tropica CO2 Diffuser (3-in-1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EHHWKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SMwzybE3D2YMT)

[co2 drop checker](Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sQwzyb6Z9EGKE)

I've read about ppl saying to be careful not to tip over the bottles so I just cut 2 holes in a box to make sure the bottles didn't fall

well if you the cash one of the best led fixtures right now would be this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GH9HURE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426797270&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex&dpPl=1&dpID=31MmMuKXM9L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I know it's still out of budget but it's like $10 more! I run these in multiple tanks. It's beyond worth the money!

you're probably better off with one of these guys until they grow big enough to not be eaten, gives them more room and better water flow than a water bottle

I have to be honest. The LED light I got makes those blues really shine. But he's still very colorful without! We purchased him like this. I've noticed that their color changes in intensity throughout the day. Lamp: Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, Cliplight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_VhJjQnbkXjEZI

i would recommend you go with the other type of sponge filters with a solid sponge with a tube in the middle, but if you have to have this kind, maybe go with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/

it has a bigger sponge and more surface area for bacteria to grow.

​

​

​

these types are better:

https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/

​

​

buy an air pump and air tube, connect the air tube to pump and filter. that simple.

This is a copy/paste from another thread I did on this tank:

Hey!
So I was in your boat 3 months ago and with the help of some local saltwater guys I got my tank up and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT9FtqEUfgE[1] (looks a lot different now since i did some rescaping... I'll put a new video up soon)
Anywhosel... Don't go cheap... With anything... If you have to buy one piece at a time until you've got all your pieces do that. What I have:

Tank: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354430&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+spec+5[2]

Lights: http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-24-Inch/dp/B00GFTK7CQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354461&sr=8-4&keywords=orbit+usa+lights[3]

Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Mini-Jet-Powerhead-VERSION-Misc/dp/B009LN1HWW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354739&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+jet+606[4]

Powerhead: http://www.amazon.com/EcoTech-Marine-VorTech-Propeller-Aquarium/dp/B003HLO636/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354535&sr=8-1&keywords=vortech+mp10[5]

Gravity Tester: http://www.amazon.com/Salinity-Refractometer-Aquarium-Seawater-Agriculture/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354641&sr=1-1&keywords=Refractometer[6]

Glass Cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061PIRGW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20GUT5T0T21NZ&coliid=I1FAC5MICMTB5T[7]

I had freshwater fish before the saltwater and it's wayyy more maintenance but way more fun. You will want to abandon the freshwater the moment you get the saltwater up and running.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QSK31M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This. Worked great for me. Didn't harm plants.

AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9nWmzbHHP82B9

I got it back in April and it seems amazon doesn't carry it anymore. I run 2-3 bps and everything seems great

First of all thanks for the response.

Some of that article was a bit technical for my current understanding, but I think I see what they mean about hitting ranges that are beneficial for photosynthesis but not as much for algea - and the fact that visible light doesn't equate to a plants needs.

I took a look at the brand you mentioned and found one that specifically calls out the 660nm PAR.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HURE

Do you think the light above may suit my current needs? (36'')

I use this in my ten gallon and a supplemental filtration in my 40. The sponges are great, just tug them off and rinse them out without disturbing anything else. A pump and airline is all you should need.

Never used one before but something like this might work for you.

Sponge filter

Basically runs off an air pump and the sponge collects debris. It'll need cleaning but a combo unit like this sounds about what you're after.

There's also this unit but it's designed for larger tanks.

If you want some more interesting creatures in your tank I'd suggest ghost shrimp. Add them first and then introduce the beta. If he's already established territory he'll be more likely to defend it.

If you do run into problems they cost less than 50 cents per shrimp.

Being a maker, I know it's hard to hear, but you're better off just buying something made for a planted tank. You really have to worry that the LEDs are in PAR range and cheapo high-wattage LEDs are often outright lies (see). I have a Finnex Planted Plus and it's great, but most importantly of all, it Just Works.

Tank: Landen 10.7 Gallon Rimless

Light: Fluval Planted 3.0 Nano LED (Petsmart purchase)

Filter: Penn Plax Cascade 500

Lily Pipes: JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe

Heater: Tetra Submersible Heater 50W

Substrate: Fluval Stratum (Petco purchase)

Inert Substrate: Carib Sea ACS05839 Super Natural

Some kind of rock from my LFS, spider wood

Ferts:
Seachem Excel: .75ml every morning before the lights come on / Seachem Flourish: .75 ml twice a week

8 hours of light/day

Plants (sorry, I don’t know Latin names, and I’m lazy):
Java Fern, Anubias (of varying kinds), Java Moss, Christmas Moss, Micro Chain Sword, Crypts, Subulata (?) (the tall grassy one in the back right)

Livestock:
1 Dwarf Gourami, 5 Ember Tetras, 1 Otocinclus, 2 Ghost Shrimp (if they haven’t gotten eaten yet)

I use the Marina S10 in mine that came with a kit, and it works really well. It's super quiet and has adjustable flow, so with it turned all the way down there's very little current and surface agitation.

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

This lets you easily segregate an aggressive and/or beat up fish while still benefiting from the established bacteria of the mature aquarium. You just need a small air pump to get the water flowing into the box.

I prefer this to trying to add a divider into the tank because it's usually pretty disruptive to the aquascape to try and put a divider into the main tank.

Citric acid is much better than vinegar, it produces a stronger reaction. In fact theres a method called DIY citric acid co2. All you need is two 2 liter soda bottles, the citric acid kit 200g citric acid, 200g baking soda, and water

Looks to be it. I used this stuff earlier this year and it did a great job getting rid of it. My cyanobacteria bloom was very large, covering most of my substrate and driftwood with a thick green slime. If you use that stuff, you'll want to keep the lights out for about a week and do 30% to 50% water changes every couple of days so the dead cyanobacteria don't make your ammonia spike.

Order this:

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cRFOCbQW0ZVM2

Then manually remove as much of the cyanobacteria as you can, follow the directions on the package, and remove any dead colonies when doing the water changes as prescribed in the directions. Repeat dosage may be required, but it works VERY well.

Word of advice, make sure that you have your air stone turned up in the tank, the product uses a lot of dissolved oxygen as it does it's job.

> http://imgur.com/gQ9Fory

Thank you sooo much! Please let me know. I am actually quite new to aquariums. The tank has been cycled for new fish. The fake plans are approved for betta, I even did the "pantyhose" test with the plants and logs. As for algae, I don't think it is, It's a live plant, and I'll go see. I usually have the light on for at least an hour. As for the bamboo....I am sad it has to go... The filter is located behind the tank, you can see a bit of it over the left side, it's black and it's this filter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Please. Educate me. By the way, anything on custom made decors? Perhaps a sealant for toys? I know some paint on toys are super dangerous so I haven't added any.

I do have co2 injection going but for the rotala it is completely unnecessary. It grows like crazy in my low tech, but with co2 I can get enough growth in only 2 days to cut/propagate . I have a cheap($40) LED light from amazon that has been working just fine so far.

An LED fixture would replace the fluorescent fixture. The upfront cost is quickly offset by savings on electricity and replacement bulbs. If your tank is 24" deep or less, I would suggest these. If you need a light brighter than the sun for a very deep tank then you may look at this instead - be careful though, the brightness on the Ray2 can overwhelm many plants.

I have an extra HOB filter rated for a 20 gal, I could swap out the one on my 13 gal fresh and have a 30 gal rated hob. Water changes aren’t an issue. This tank has a fluorescent tube hood, would that be enough? Or should I start researching lighting? If I need another light I may wait a bit for the tank to establish before adding the anemone. I’m also thinking of adding this with chaeto/purigen/phosban as added security

This is the system I use, it hooks up to paintball co2 tanks which makes it alot easier to get then filled. Alot of people will tell you you need to spend alot on a system but I've used this on a 10 gallon for over a year all together and just got a new one for my 55 and I think it work really well.

Check this out at Amazon.com
AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_9O82Bb5S8EGPT

My betta is in an aqueon 5 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 20 filter and an Eheim Jager 25W heater. Water parameters at perfect 0/0/<5.

I also have a Finnex Planted+ clip-on light, but unless you're growing live plants, it might be too much light.

Here's a heater, wattage is abit high, but adjustable temp which don't work with smaller ones. A bit pricey too, I found this one has better reviews, but you can go for a cheaper 25 watt one, as I haven't found anything smaller to have adjustable temp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006JLPG8?cache=96fab02d9701f6a90f7c7a080f6bb7ef&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408216336&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

If spring water, read label first. In my area bottled spring water is 300 ppm TDS, while tap is way less.

If you can afford, use GH/KH test kit, it costs no more than any other kit. TDS meter would be nice too, here is why, and compare tank water parameters to

• your tap water parameters
  
  
• and to your aquatic animals requirements, available online in search for species name and GH.
  
  Then you will know if limescale is because of evaporation and using not distilled or RO water to compensate evaporation, concentration of minerals increases, if water changes are not too big.
  
  Or if your water is too hard for your animals, and you have dilute it, and do this by calculating dilution without guessing.
  
  Or your water could be just right for your animals, if they are hard water animals.
  
  If you have tap water pressure enough to run RO filter (for big tank) or you can buy bottled distilled water (for small tank), you could create artificial water with optimal for them GH, by adding GH/KH+ remineralizer. I'm using Salty Shrimp, but there are different brands. A small amount needed, dissolves fast, producing every time the same optimal water.

I haven't used it personally, but I've heard good things about the Finnex Planted + 24/7 : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=asc_df_B00U0HN1DG5419634/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00U0HN1DG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167154348866&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3111673664299888318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012430&hvtargid=pla-305313603279&th=1&psc=1

Thank you for the tips. Will grab some root tabs for sure.

The light is:
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have this Heater for my 5.5 gallon. I'm pretty satisfied with it, although it struggled to keep up when we had a cold snap (like 55* Fahrenheit inside) with no house heat turned on. It was easily remedied by wrapping a towel around my tank.

Not saying you can't use that one, just not familiar with it. I know for certain that there are no openings on a sponge large enough for fry to get into. While yours is probably safe, I can't say that with any certainty. Sponge filters are standard for fry tanks and are very inexpensive. I use this one on a couple of tanks currently: https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI

Sunsun HW-302 Theyre amazing

Low light plants

Really nice light (assuming this is a 29 gallon?)

OK Light

I currently use this for one of my betta tanks. I bought it used and it's been running for over a year. The flow rate is adjustable which is perfect for any betta tanks.

This is an expensive method but really works. However like others said, unless you fix the nitrate issue, BGA will keep coming back.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QSK31M/

I highly recommend a low/medium light LED. My personal favorite for low light tanks is the finnex stingray (I use one on my 55).

If you need a cheaper option you can use desk clip lights with CFL 6500K lights that you can buy from a home department store of your choice (Home depot, Lowes, etc.)

I have this filter for my betta in the same tank as yours. I use the small spray opening and point it at the wall of the tank to divert the flow. You can also change the strength of the flow or use the spray bar. It did not bother my betta at all and collected quite a bit of bacteria.

I got this same tank for Christmas and plan on making it a shrimp tank. I ordered some eco-complete off of Petco.com, since their shipping option was the cheapest. It was poorly packaged, but arrived quickly and intact. I ordered a Hydor 25 Watt Heater because it'll fit in the back area. One thing to consider if you're planning on putting the heater back there, is making a modification to the flow tube so the heated water circulates more evenly. This also helps keep the flow rate lower so bettas and shrimp don't stress out from the hight current. Also, keep in mind that keeping shrimp and fish together is risky - some bettas won't bother them, but it really depends. My experience with RCS is that if can fit in someone's mouth, it's gonna get eaten (I had 7 RCS in my 20 gallon and they were gone in a week - still not sure if it was my corys or my danios, but it was a shrimpocalypse). I know someone with a Spec III whose betta hunted down 3 ghost shrimp over the course of a few months and they're quite a bit larger than RCS and are also not a bright, enticing red. Hence, why I am now setting up a separate shrimp tank.

When I started up my 20 gallon long, my LFS advised me against adding all but the hardiest of plants (such as anubias nanas) while cycling since supposedly ammonia can melt/burn some plants. I plan on ordering some Christmas Moss and trying to create a wall or carpet using mesh, and I'll be moving some of my anubias and crypts over from my 20g.

I've been thinking about s. repens in this tank as well, since I think it would be great to have a low, carpet type plant in my shrimp tank. But from all that I've read, it sounds like that's a light and CO2 needy plant. Supposedly it will grow in in lower light, but is more likely to grow high and slowly, and won't necessarily produce that beautiful carpet effect. I've never had Frogbit, but looking at it, I would be worried that it could block a lot of light from anything buried in the substrate, and with an already weak light that could be more problematic.

ETA: The 25w heater should be fine for the Spec V, but if you tend to keep your house cold (60F) I would opt for the 50w.

Kind of like the Fluval Spec V idea?

Yeah i think the shells will grow back. No problem, glad I could help!

You should also get a hardness & carbonate hardness test kit.

Here ya go.

40 bucks for the filter/heater/Hood.


Also make sure you get some water conditioner.

Oh and if you are doing plants you should get some fluorescent bulbs.

I'd get a Fluval Spec V. It's a 5 gallon all in one. It will be good for a single betta.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0Iieasb_yECQmx7hihQMBdHwNu5-gb419jVAYSHApZGrpSVqXhK68zMAHBoC5YgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=178532195030&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1014221&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8640727061942101560&hvtargid=kwd-69101103695&hydadcr=16135_9891773&keywords=fluval+spec+v+aquarium+kit+5-gallon&qid=1562629939&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Smaller than i thought. Hard to find hob filters for such a small tank. You can try Penn Plax cascade 20, though i saw its out of stock on amazon.


Also, i think this would be fine as well.

If it ends up being to much of a flow when pouring back into tank, you can just baffle it with a sponge.

Thank you so much for your input!

AquaClear 30
I can also add a Tetra Whisper PF10(gallon) if you think that would help.(?)

I just bought a 29g as well and had to upgrade my light. This is the exact one I bought and love it, it’s the same as my old one but bigger.

NICREW

Found a good deal for my fellow aquarists:

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC

Be patient and you can find them for less, I got mine for around $50, and it's the new version not the old version, the only real difference is the light is much better on the new one. If it comes in a white box it's the old version, black box is the new version, so if you find one locally that is how to tell.

Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.

Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640650&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&ref=plSrch

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640748&sr=8-13&keywords=sponge+filter

I have a very expensive (relatively) set of LEDs on my 55 gallon that made my plants absolutely explode. They're called Finnex Fugeray Planted+ and a clip bar for the Chi would cost about 40 dollars and would keep up with the stylish design.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIL7YPE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417778326&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

The thing to keep in mind when considering LEDs are the pros to having them. You don't suffer from "bulb deterioration", where the bulb's potential is lost halfway through its life, you have no replacement bulb costs, and they consume less energy. There is only one real con to LEDs, a set of good lights are much more expensive than bulbs. I say it is worth it though, almost two years on my LEDs and I've had to do nothing to maintain them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That makes sense. I had a light that wasn't powerful enough and my plants had a hard time surviving. The algae problem started a little while after I got a new light.

I have it on a timer from 7am to 9pm. I didn't think to shorten the time the light is on, now that it's more powerful. Is there a recommended time the light should be on?

I just ordered this light: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and also some root tabs :). Hopefully this will help them take off.

Link to volcano.

Link to filter

I'm getting a second filter in a day or two. I knew I should have gone with the 50 in the first place, but oh well.

So this was another option I was thinking about. It looks like Finnex makes a clip light. Doesnt seem like a bad option and might look kind of cool without breaking the bank.
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPG8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might fit. It's one of the smallest heaters I know of.

Also, if you're going for a smaller tank I'd recommend the following filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=206IQ9CF332Y&coliid=I34IFQSAA7VMHS

Something like this might be what you're looking for.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520910198&sr=8-7&keywords=aquatek+co2+regulator

Sorry your NatGeo ones keep breaking. :( This is the filter I have, SunSun HW-302

I know it's the "cheaper" brand, but mine has been running since September 2013 and I haven't had any problems with it. It still runs quiet, doesn't leak, and simple to assemble. My only complaint was that the instructions that it came with were not for the model I bought, so I had to find a YouTube video to figure it out because it was my first canister filter, haha

Were you monitoring the ammonia levels while you did it?

Im not sure why your levels are so wonky either, like others said it doesnt sound over stocked..i have a tank with 2 adult axies and my levels have never gotten that high!

Im not sure how your filter looks, but you should try the HOBs that are 3 parts that can be changed/rinsed independently. One of those parts you can even change to be absorbing excess ammonia (what i do for my axies)

Ammonia piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003025AVO/ref=sxl1?qid=1465797788&sr=1&refinements=p_89%3AFluval&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

The type of filter it fits in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465797869&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Fluval+HOB&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch

Just purchased this for my Fluval Chi 6 gal: Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9mYiybMJJ8980

How much does that run you? I've never understood what exactly co2 does or how to set it up but really want to make a planted shrimp tank

Is this the light?

Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED Light, 20-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DxuiybD1R5CHM

Folks always recommend the python hose. I'm not against it, but I'm not a proponent of ever adding water directly from tap to tank.

When I do my water changes on my 37g or my 125g I always make sure the temperature matches or is very close. I use 5 gallon buckets, and I have found the "sweet spot" on my faucet that tends to deliver 78degree water.

Unfortunately it's hot as hell here these days and I'm on a well, so the water has been coming in warm. This past weekend I added ice directly to the bucket to bring the temp down (of course conditioning the water after the ice melted).

I also have a heater specifically for water changes that I place in the bucket. I have used this little heater directly in my buckets.

Heaters in the 5gal buckets do not take long at all to get to temperature, especially if you use a bigger heater than I linked (i happen to have one laying around these days).

This light says 18 Watts.
What do you think the recommended wattage would be just in case I can find any for cheaper?

>T8 17W 6500,

I was having a similar issue with my 35 gallon and went with a NiCrew LED and now my plants are growing like crazy. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=11WLM4KQ8OGN2&keywords=aquarium+led+light+30+inch&qid=1551111987&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+led%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

I use the large ones, but there are other size so it's not obnoxiously over-sized.

C02 Kit

Bubble Counter

Diffuser

You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.

I have this filter https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW

I have one plant in there, I can't remember what it is I think it's an Amazon sword or something, I remember getting the recommend kind for my type of tank. I have no idea how many I need or what to do for them though.

Do you think this is okay? It is the same as the more expensive one but it is a clip on.

I use a 25w Hydor for my 5g. Been using it for a year and a half on the lowest setting and my tank temp has remained stable and consistent. Temp is usually a couple degrees warmer than the setting because of the little tank so 71F is closer to 75F.

My tank was absolutely covered in BGA and someone recommended this product and it got rid of it all in three days

Here's the Amazon price history.