Top products from r/Archery

You have a lot of options to go on the cheap. I mean actually cheap. They won't feel premium or awe inspiring but you can still get quite good (I'm currently retraining myself to use thumb, so I have both those bows below but I have the 18lbs version of the snake)
You can try the famous Snake Bow, or the Youth Titan Bow, Both capable of being drawn to 31" safely, both capable of shooting on the left or right side. Perfect for finding your particular style before choosing better equipment. Both have a reputation of being tanks in terms of durability.

I recommend This armguard

As for arrows, there are a lot of amazon sellers, with 25~30lbs being the kind of weight you want to start with, most of the sellers on amazon give you okay-ish arrows to start, I wouldn't get the cheapest option but if I had to choose, I'd get these. Do not expect to be splitting arrows though.


If you chose those 3 options, that's about 100$ leaving 50$ for a tab, back quiver or target bag. Tab/target bag should be the higher priority, all 3 would be best.


These bows and arrows I linked are for, real budget entry level "I've never shot a bow before" archers. Easy enough to pull, forgiving and more forgiving on the wallet.

​

At least I think so.

His form isn't terrible, it's different-- it's an old school style developed more for a hunting situation where you likely had to take a shot from uneven ground, or from behind a bush, or from a tree, or prone, or on your back. Longbow hunting forms focus mostly on versatility and being just accurate enough to put an arrow in the kill zone

When it comes to longbow shooting, there are certain things that translate from Target shooting:

1. Solid footwork-- as Byron Fergison says, every good shot is built from the ground up. The longbow stance is a little wider than a target stance but you still need to be in line, at least for standing shots
   
   
2. Consistent draw-- hunting longbow stances have a different full-draw-form, but their draw needs to be consistent every time
   
   
3. The follow through-- hold the bow steady until the arrow hits the target. No flinching, no plucking, hand locked against the face (his anchor might be a little different. I'll get more into that later)
   
   
4. Consistency in grouping/shooting
   
   
5. ENCOURAGEMENT-- a positive attitude is a must for anyone who is learning instinctive shooting
   
   
   These are things that will not translate from target shooting:
   
   
6. The swing draw-- longbow shooters with heavier bows will have a different "closed" form than a target/recurve archer (think: upright olympic rifle stance vs. military combat stances).
   
   
7. You don't need to hold the bow at draw for as long (because the swing draw, done correctly, will put you in the correct form)
   
   
8. bow canting: It's personal preference. More cant = better field of view = more focus on the target. However much he cants the bow, make sure that his eye is in line with the arrow shaft. Each longbow shooter has their own optimal angle for bow canting, he'll discover it on his own after a while
   
   
9. The anchor point: I'm not sure what you use as an anchor point, but most hunting longbow forms anchor above the chin, usually pressed against the face. This gets the arrow closer to the eye and allows the archer to either consciously or subliminally sight down the arrow. The anchor point needs to be fixed for hunting forms-- no string walking or anchor point raising/lowering, just a consistent draw and anchor each time
   
   Archers you'll want to refer him to:
   -Howard Hill
   -Fred Bear
   -Will Young and Saxon Pope
   -Byron Ferguson
   
   Books:
   Hunting the Hard Way (Howard Hill):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Hard-Way-Howard-Hill/dp/1568331460/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751131&sr=8-1&keywords=hunting+the+hard+way+howard+hill
   
   Become the Arrow (Byron Ferguson):
   http://www.amazon.com/Become-Arrow-On-Target-Series/dp/091330509X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751154&sr=8-1&keywords=Become+the+Arrow
   
   Hunting with the Bow and Arrow (Saxton Pope):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Bow-Arrow-Saxton-Pope/dp/1497520010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751194&sr=8-1&keywords=Saxton+Pope
   
   The Witchery of Archery (Maurice Thomspon):
   http://www.amazon.com/The-Witchery-Archery-Maurice-Thompson/dp/1446528197/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751234&sr=8-1&keywords=witchery+of+archery
   
   There are many videos on Youtube of Howard Hill, like this one:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo8UZneuggE
   
   and some very good instructional videos:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98fuYYD5LOM
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJKOZ6KfRRs
   
   and some very bad ones too... Stick with the videos of people who were famous archers. Howard Hill is my favorite for reasons you'll see in the Cavalcade of Archery film, but anyone who's an established trick shooter or a renown hunter can also be trusted sources of knowledge
   
   The key to longbow shooting is that there is no one right way, there's only what works for the archer. It's a lot of experimentation, a lot of failing, but eventually he will learn what will work out best mechanically for him. He will need to take note of the different forms (including target style shooting) and take pieces of what works well for him-- just don't be offended if he doesn't do exactly what you want him to do because the longbow and the recurve are very different beasts.
   
   But above all, encouragement and always having a positive attitude is going to be the best thing. If he's self taught, it's likely he already knows how to take pieces of different forms and adapt it to his own needs (so yes, yo should definitely be teaching him Target shooting form stuff), but having someone to bounce ideas off of or even note when their elbow is low or they're shaking is a huge help, but above all encouragement is going to be the best thing you can do

At first I was thinking a high quality finger tab, but then I remembered that most archers are very particular about their gear. A book is a great idea because just about any archer would find it interesting. My wife got me this book and it was a gift I have really enjoyed. It's called Traditional Archery from Six Continents.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0826217516/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505877763&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=traditional+archery+from+six+continenta

As cliche as it is, look at the Samick Sage. Easy to get, cheap, but a great first bow, especially if you wanna try out different limb weights. It isn't fancy but it's solid and a great way to find out what you like.

https://www.amazon.com/Samick-Sage-Takedown-Recurve-35lb/dp/B006R8SWUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=recurve+bow&qid=1566348915&s=gateway&sprefix=recu&sr=8-3

reading? I got you covered. I posted some information a small while back so here is most of the reading recurve stuff.

• Archery Reference 5 pdf, fantastic recurve information if you are just starting out.
  
  
• Fita Intermidate Coach's manuals If you need technical information about archery. (it is a bit outdated on some information do not use it for rules)
  
  
• books I recommend are The Simple Art of Winning: How To Shoot Your Best, Archery USA, and for more intermediate to higher level Total Archery, Inside the archer for KSL style archers.
  
  
• Archery Talk is another community that is worth lurking for information.
  
  If I had to pick one for you the read, it would be The simple art of winning. It does not teach you form it teaches you how to improve.

Thanks! I would totally go to a store but it's like an all day trip (if I'm lucky) to a Seattle area archery shop from Port Townsend. But - the next time I go out there it's my first stop.

I've ordered a bunch of things from 3rivers thanks for the link.

I'm not shooting off the shelf - I have a cheap https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM which seems to be working OK.

I'll try to get over to Seattle soon and talk with the guys at The Nock Point ... they seem like a solid shop http://www.thenockpoint.com/

I wondered the same thing. After buying some of the cheapest ones I could find, and later buying some for around the price you mentioned, I found that spending a little more makes my practice more enjoyable and likely more effective. I like [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Feather-Fletched-Easton-Aluminum-Arrows/dp/B000PEMPMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394786199&sr=8-1&keywords=easton+jazz) for the price quality. Treat em right and the extra expenditure is worth it.

I don't understand how to purchase/assemble arrows...I've read guides, spine charts and I feel like I a missing something.


I bought a Samick Sage, 30#. I ended up buying these 1916 XX75 Jazz. Before I got those, I tried buying the shaft by it's self but then I needed vanes, tips, glue etc..The total would have been $70+ for 6 arrows if I did it that way. I also couldn't tell what points and notches fit in what shafts...So many variables,


So when you buy arrows, do they normally come in these separates pieces? The one's I bought were all inclusive.


How do you correctly attach the vanes?


How can I better know what to buy together to complete the arrow purchase?


This is for target shooting in a backyard.



Another Example: If I buy these Tributes from Lancaster Archery, they don't come with points right? So how do I make sure what point I buy, fits?

I personally have a Supreme III Yellow Jacket from Morrells, holds up nicely to whatever my friends and I tend to shoot at it with ( usually ranging anywhere from 35# recurve to a 64# infinite edge. Shot hundreds of arrows so far and it's still pretty snazzy. Didn't reach the thousands yet, but it serves well, I heard hanging it up makes it perform slightly better as well as preserve it.

You're going to have to decide if you want to approach it from a modern or traditional standpoint. I shoot recurve competitively, so the links I'll provide will be focused on modern recurve bows.

Archerytalk, a popular forum

FITA's youtube channel. They upload VODs from every major event they can

Technical resources:

The Easton tuning guide

Texas archery keeps a list of useful links and documents. It's a mashup of things, but sometimes the tuning and instructionals are useful. [In particular, the recurve reference guide.]
(http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/ArchersReference/archref_05.pdf)


Form and technique:

The basics. This is what we teach absolute beginners at my club.

Total Archery. A very advanced and very significant book. Countries have created entire coaching programs based around the teachings of the book's author.

Precision Archery

Zen in the Art of Archery

Do not listen to ApertureLabs. Besides the fact that he so easily insults the most popular type of archery in the modern world, he's also plain wrong. You don't need textbook form, but it is important that beginners understand the basic reasoning behind using proper muscle groups, stance, grip, balance, and joint orientation. Developing your own technique without guidance will always lead to bad habits because a lot of the above does not come naturally to someone who picks up a bow for the first time. Shrugged shoulders, puffed chests, and floating anchors are all common ailments of beginners who come to my club with no coaching, all of which are difficult habits to shake and impede your ability to improve.

Get a stick on arrow rest like a Bear Weather rest or a Hoyt Super rest. They are $5, will let you shoot those vaned arrows, and people have won natl champoinships using them.

Bear Weather Arrow Rest RH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AVDKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZW0TAb2QH0YKE

I have gotten a lot of use out of both my Power Pull and Astra "form master". They are good rainy day or living room exercises.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKERUE

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/astra-archery-shot-trainer-training-aid.html

You can also make a form master pretty cheap and easy, lots of videos, but the sleeve on the Astra is nice for keeping the straps in place (even when shooting normally).

Books?

• if they're interested in history and historical gear: Traditional Archery from Six Continents http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Archery-Six-Continents-Collection/dp/0826217516 (ob. discl. I arranged for that to be reprinted and would like to clear out the boxes....)
  
• One coach's perspective: Total Archery: Inside the Archer by KiSik Lee, Tyler Benner, Spencer Adamson http://www.amazon.com/dp/098242650X
  
• Maybe they want to make their own? Archeological European view: The Bow Builder's Book: European Bow Building from the Stone Age to Today http://www.amazon.com/dp/0764341537 or for more detail and performance: The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Volume 1 http://www.amazon.com/dp/1585740853
  
• or accessories: Bow Accessories: Equipment and Trimmings You Can Make http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Accessories-Equipment-Trimmings-Make/dp/0764330357
  
  

I'm sure there are those who will scoff, but I still love my Samick Sage.

Oooh oooh ooh, [Byron Ferguson's Become the Arrow] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Become-Arrow-On-Target-Series/dp/091330509X/ref=pd_sim_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TCA8CRDMQBYP95760YE) is great!

Aswell as the Beginner's Guide to Traditional Archery :)

Pretty bow. You'll want a shelf rest and plate; I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bear-Arrow-Rest-Silent-Plate/dp/B0009TROH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482865623&sr=8-1&keywords=bear+hair+rest

Unless of course, you're going to do the whole frou-frou target recurve thing; I shoot bare bow in the SCA, so I don't have all the attachments. I used to use a finger tab with my compound, back when, but I wear a glove now. It's easier to do other things and easier to keep track of. I'd probably lose a tab, since my garb doesn't have pockets and I don't wear a belt pouch (though I probably should).

When I was a kid, I used to make bows out of branches and fishing line until my parents bought me a red fiberglass recurve with about a 20 pound pull and some aluminum arrows, and a foam target. It was awesome and cheap. I think something along those lines wouldn't be a bad starting point (even for an adult just looking for some fun) and inexpensive as well. I wouldn't shoot at cans, by the way. Your arrows would probably pass through and it would mess up the fletching/vanes. And you would be spending a lot of time looking for arrows that slid under the turf.

Edit: My old fiberglass bow was similar to the Titan bow on this page:
http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Youth-Fiberglass-Recurve-Bow/productinfo/9650/2465/

Cheaper on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Bear-Archery-AYB6501-Titan-Bow/dp/B002BIPAOK

I recommend this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Bear-Arrow-Rest-Silent-Plate/dp/B0009TROH4?ie=UTF8&keywords=bear%20hair%20arrow%20rest&qid=1464275802&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

You can usually find it in archery stores or places like Cabela's as well.

I have an old Grayling jig from the 90's. It was a hand-me-down/freebie. It's basically a plastic version of the Bitzenburger. I have fletched many dozens of arrows with it and I plan to fletch many dozens more. After a quick google search, I see that the Grayling Fletching Jig is still available today, and $29 for a complete setup seems like a reasonable deal. I just found a right helical clamp for it for about $10.

If this jig had not been given to me for free I would have been skeptical about it and I am sure I would have never purchased one based on online pictures, but the jig has definitely been a work horse. The only routine maintenance that I do on this jig is to check the nock alignment before I start and to adjust the nock rotation if I want the cock feather up instead of out.

If I was going to get a new fletching jig today, I would probably get one of the Bohning Feather Tower Fletching Jigs that does three feathers or vanes at one time.

Bowyers bible, https://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Bowyers-Bible-1/dp/1585740853
And there are a ton of youtube videos about this. Read through the general steps in the book and get more insight into what you dont understand by watching videos on you tube. Thats usually my strategy. Good luck

I use something similar, the Grayling Fletching Jig. Should work about the same as the one you linked, so I think it's a worthy investment. I chose this because I didn't want a bright red one. Haha.

I would love to take a class in this. I developed an interest in bow making at the same time I got interested in archery. I bought The Traditional Bowyer's Bible before I even bought my first bow.

I am in the middle of making a red oak bow but it's too hot now to sit outside getting covered in sweat and sawdust.

What state is this located?

Have you looked into something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38

Otherwise, push-ups, rows or pull ups will help to keep the muscles going. The muscle memory without the above... a different story.

Kim Hyung-Tak's Archery and Ki-Sik Lee's Total Archery are the go-to textbooks and should be your first stop if you have any questions/problems

USA Archery's book is also supposed to be pretty good but I haven't read it

Also, am I the only person who noticed OP asked for recurve archery? Why are people going on about compounds and zen and trad bows?

Yes, and I realize that this is all very vague. I'll try to post some pics when I get a chance.

The bow is a Barnett Sportflight Recurve Archery Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R9QTFY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pZXAxb4BRB41Q

http://imgur.com/1HdrSAu. When I pull back, the arrow still kind of angles like this. Does that help explain my question, I'm sorry if I'm being too unclear.

What you need is a regular stick-on rest; the one that was on there was probably a Bear Weather Rest which can be found pretty much anywhere that sells archery gear of any kind.

You can get one of these to build up your draw muscles. It's very portable, and easy to take with you. It's not as much practice as it is exercise mind you.

To add to that list:

For something philosophical/religious:

• Zen in the Art of Archery
  
  If they're fascinated by the construction of traditional bows and arrows:
  
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 1
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 2
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 3
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 4

Everyone here is right. And nope, there's no correct distance to start with. Bryan Ferguson says "If I can see it, I can hit it." He tries to see the smallest part of whatever he's trying to hit. Another way of saying that is that if you try to hit the deer you're going to miss. If you try to hit that dime sized discoloration you can see in the hide, you're going to hit it. Instinctual shooting requires a zen-like focus and years of practice. You either get addicted to that regimen or you don't. I did.

Good luck man, and just keep shooting! Pick up some used books on amazon too. You'll pick up something a little different from each one. Become The Arrow is a great place to start.

That's not me in the picture lol. But I received the blue one. Comes without a rest, and I just ordered this one yesterday. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should stick with NTS (use to be best) , pretty much every competitive archer in the US uses it, but you should buy the book to have a more up to date guide to it: http://www.amazon.com/Inside-Archer-Total-Archery-KiSik/dp/098242650X

We set up a mini-range in our backyard. First we stuck a thick rubber horse trailer mat to our fence. Then we built a large wooden frame and secured it to the fence, then stacked bales of hay inside and strapped them down. We mostly used paper targets. That lasted for a couple of weeks until we realized that there were snake eggs in the hay, then I screamed like a little girl and made my husband throw it all out.

Now we use the same frame and rubber mat, but we added archery netting. Bungee cords are used to hang cube-shaped or square targets. The rubber mat, netting, and occasionally even indoor-outdoor carpet keep any arrows that miss the target from getting caught in one of the neighbor's pugs.

I wish I had a picture of the frame, but it's wet and dark outside and I'm not wearing pants, so I'll have to settle for describing it. It's a large rectangle, about 8 feet high (same as the fence), 10-12 feet wide, and about 4 feet from the fence itself. It has two parallel planks at the top that run the entire length. The front is used for bungee cords and targets while the one behind it is used for hanging netting and/or carpet. (My husband occasionally shoots through netting, which is why we added outdoor carpet. It's not pretty, but it's effective.) The rubber mat is attached to the fence and is a last line of defense. (It's a pain in the butt to pull an arrow out once it's stuck in the rubber, so try not to hit it. Still probably better than having to pull it out of a pug though.)

Marked off at 18yds. I have a line in the ground where I stand and some stacked cement block halves I use to hold my field point arrows. I was surprised how cheaply I could get a fun setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZB9474/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_x1koyb1M0P3V0

Yep, I watched this and decided to mostly mimic his setup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0FyoD7rqQ4

Bear Arrow Rest/Silent Plate:

http://www.amazon.com/Bear-Arrow-Rest-Silent-Plate/dp/B0009TROH4

Same thing as the others posted, but this time it's actually an amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453405938&sr=8-1&keywords=bow+trainer

1. "Left-Handed" means you hold the bow with your right hand and you pull the arrow and string back with your left hand.
   
   
2. If you want the cheapest of the cheapest, there are some bow packages that start from $100 to $150 and goes up from there like the PSE Pro Max or Samick Polaris but you'll need to get a [Bear Arrow Rest] (https://www.amazon.com/Bear-Arrow-Rest-Silent-Plate/dp/B0009TROH4) to shoot "off the shelf" (without an arrow rest). The packages come with everything you need to start shooting. Without knowing your budget, I'm looking at some of the lowest bundles on sites to recommend you.

Contact them and ask what they supply.

My wife did this for me. The place she picked supplied the equipment and coached us along through the basics. They offered two courses that meet each Saturday for six weeks. At the end of the second course we decided we liked it so much that we went to a 'local' pro-shop and got set up with decent equipment that should last us for quite some time. I put local in quotes because the closest pro-shop to us is a 90 minute drive.

Now we've joined a local club, shoot regularly and are thinking of going to some tournaments.

For books, here's the two I bought:

Archery - Steps to Success

Archery - USA Archery

Nothing's wrong with fiberglass. I'm implying that cheap fiberglass bows, such as this one, generally aren't very good. There's a huge difference between a $150 wooden takedown bow and a $50 fiberglass "recurve" that feels like plastic.

http://www.amazon.com/Samick-Sage-Takedown-Recurve-35lb/dp/B006R8SWUO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top its a decent beginner recurve bow.

What about this for a bowfishing bow?

http://smile.amazon.com/Bear-Archery-Firebird-Bow-60-Inch/dp/B002BIM0H0/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

It's within my draw length and I should be able to pull off at least 33# draw weight with it. (Listed is 30-35#)

http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1420577684&sr=1-1&keywords=archery+strength+trainer

i have a hoyt charger, which is a compound bow

I'd suggest looking at r/boywer, The Traditional Bowyer's Bible series, and Poor Folks Bows.

These helped me:

• Watch NUSensei's videos.
  
  
• Got this book from the library
  

Sage is like $79. According to camelcamelcamel that's the lowest it has been. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R8SWUO/

I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZB9474

hanging from one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Products-BTS-Target-Stand-Olive/dp/B009205TEG

I also have a couple stacks of hay bales, fronted with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZJSIP0 The great thing about that cardboard is that it ships as-is but covered with plastic wrap. You can just put it in place as-is and leave it outdoors.

I also have a 4'x4'x2' frame made of 2x4s and covered with landscaping cloth, stuffed with plastic bags and bubble wrap and all kinds of plastic crap and old blue poly tarps and plastic sheeting. I have a small tarp I throw over it when I'm not shooting.

The hay bales have to be replaced yearly. Everything else is nearly indestructible.
All of those things sit up on pallets.

I shoot a 45lb sage and use 30" Easton jazz 1096. They are cheap on Amazon and come fletched, have inserts and points already installed. Havebt used any carbon to compare them to but the aluminum does fine by me, hard to bend unless you hit a tree or something at a weird angle.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEMPMW?vs=1

What Lars says is to some extent based on what he supposedly read in Arab Archery (I wrote "supposedly" since I have not read it myself so I can only assume). As to why he says things the way he does? Well, it's a YouTube video. It needs to "sell" itself. He did it to stir things up and get traction. Or atleast that's what I choose to believe since the alternative would be "Lars is silly and actually believes the nonsense he's saying". However don't be the other side of the coin and go "hurr durr, history bows were 180 lbs war bows" etc. There were many kinds of bows. It's a topic as wide as the sea.

It's an old discussion and I'd say it's not worth your time. It was commented to death many times allready.

I anchor my knuckles on my cheek right up against my ear. It brings about more repeatability due to parts of the body lining up.

Arab archery manuals describe an Occluded Eye aiming technique for aiming. You use parts of your bow's belly and or hands as aiming points, keep both eyes on the target, and line up the aiming points on your bow/hand to put the arrow where you want it to go. As with all things, this requires good form and a clean release.

Vertical stringing can be caused by several things. Shoulder collapse, inconsistent anchor point, shifting the arrow by pressing too hard against the arrow with your ring finger, not placing your hand on the bow in the same way, etc. Horizontal stringing can be caused by many things. Bad release, poor khatra, arrows with too weak of a spine, etc.

Well I'll throw in my two cents since no one's linked a specific model yet.

$50 - 35lb ambidextrous recurve bow

It's a youth bow but I've had no issue with the size of it as an adult. It's a lowish poundage as others have recommended. It's also quite cheap. So if you try it and decide you're not super into archery, you're not out over $100 on a nicer bow. I've been LARPing with it for a couple years. Durability is not an issue as I've spent large amounts of time both shooting with it and blocking weapon strikes with it.

As for learning to shoot the thing, I'll leave that to someone with more traditional archery experience than myself. I believe many gun ranges actually have archery instruction if that's convenient for you. Just make sure you get training before trying to shoot. You'd be surprised the angles those arrows can fly when you shoot improperly. And don't be fooled by the relatively low poundage, that's plenty to put an arrow through someone.