(Part 2) Top products from r/Archery

For some basic info, check out the getting started guide in the sidebar.

What style of bow you get will be mostly guided by what kind of bow you are drawn to (and also what you plan on doing with it). There are some decent bows in the 100-150 price range (at least in a recurve or longbow). You should probably plan on 6-12 arrows to start off with (along with a few other necessary items). Arrows can be anywhere from $5 US each on up (arrows can be found cheaper, but quality might suffer).

As for learning on your own, /u/nusensei has a good youtube channel, not sure how many videos he has on technique, but good info. Archery Great Britain had some coaching videos online, you could search youtube for those as well, I think they go at least a little into technique but might be more tuned to coaches and not the archer.

KSLInternationals website has some good info on shooting.

You can also find some good books on archery, the only one I have read is Archery Anatomy, maybe other folks here could recommend other useful books.

Bottom line is, as with any other skill, teaching yourself will likely be more difficult than if you have a teacher, but you you don't have access to one than lots of reading and watching.

At first I was thinking a high quality finger tab, but then I remembered that most archers are very particular about their gear. A book is a great idea because just about any archer would find it interesting. My wife got me this book and it was a gift I have really enjoyed. It's called Traditional Archery from Six Continents.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0826217516/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505877763&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=traditional+archery+from+six+continenta

Can’t say about that Barnett , but I own this crossbow CenterPoint Sniper 370 Crossbow Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2KFCJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fnR0BbSQ8KYY9 and I love it. Super easy to use and set up.

Thanks! I would totally go to a store but it's like an all day trip (if I'm lucky) to a Seattle area archery shop from Port Townsend. But - the next time I go out there it's my first stop.

I've ordered a bunch of things from 3rivers thanks for the link.

I'm not shooting off the shelf - I have a cheap https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM which seems to be working OK.

I'll try to get over to Seattle soon and talk with the guys at The Nock Point ... they seem like a solid shop http://www.thenockpoint.com/

I read this thru when I started, and then touched on some of it later once I had some ideas about what I was doing, it was really quite helpful. It does a good job of explaining (as best as words can) what your body should feel like during the shot process. The main olympic recurve chapters are written by KSL himself, so its not some random, dude knows his stuff.

https://smile.amazon.com/Archery-USA-ebook/dp/B00AMLD8YW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495117552&sr=8-4&keywords=Archery

my cousin got me one of these for christmas it's pretty fun to play around with, but not a toy. make sure you have a good backstop. if you are planning on shooting it at trees or any thing else, make sure to get some extra bolts, they break kinda easily (but are cheap)

First and foremost, I do not know instinctive for your recurve, so other people will have to give you resources on that. You need information on proper form for barebow shooting like they do in competition.

Compound on there other hand, The nuts and bolts of archery, USA Archery and Fita Coaching Manual was a fantastic compound resources for me. I used these to teach myself how to shoot an Sb1. Bolts and fita are free to download.

If you can join an archery club that would be the most optimal method to really improving. Out of everyone I actually know this is not always the case, but reading can make up for some of this lost knowledge. Sadly though you do need someone to watch you otherwise after a certain point your growth will halt.

Mind you it is possible to break that growth wall, but out of personal experience it is quite difficult.. can you say large mirror and self recording cameras? I actually did this for olympic recurve and I shoot a slightly altered style of KSL style, but that is an entire very long thread for another time about self critiquing/improvement.

I haven't shot a bow since I was a child, so I didn't really know what kind of draw weight I would need, I just googled averages and used that. I'm glad I asked.

I figured the target would be junk but I didn't really think I needed anything more than a chunk of styrofoam.

Thanks for the advice, I just want to buy everything and get started, but Ive got some more research to do I suppose.

Edit:
Are These Better arrows?

I bought my wife a Diamond infinite edge and she loves it. it's adjustable from a 13 to 30 inch draw length and 5 to 70 lb draw weight, so you can set it to where she is now and adjust it as she progresses.

{edit} Jesus, It's like an infinite edge commercial in here. Seriously though, it's a great bow.

I have the Diamond Infinite Edge. I'm pretty happy with it. It's a bow you and your girlfriend can use, and someday maybe even your kid. IMO the ability to adjust the length from 13 - 30 inches and limbs from 5 - 70 lbs for less than $400 is hard to beat. The package includes the bow, a 3-pin Apex sight, Hostage XL arrow rest, Octane DeadLock Lite quiver, tube peep sight and a BCY string loop.

Get a stick on arrow rest like a Bear Weather rest or a Hoyt Super rest. They are $5, will let you shoot those vaned arrows, and people have won natl champoinships using them.

Bear Weather Arrow Rest RH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AVDKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZW0TAb2QH0YKE

Books?

• if they're interested in history and historical gear: Traditional Archery from Six Continents http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Archery-Six-Continents-Collection/dp/0826217516 (ob. discl. I arranged for that to be reprinted and would like to clear out the boxes....)
  
• One coach's perspective: Total Archery: Inside the Archer by KiSik Lee, Tyler Benner, Spencer Adamson http://www.amazon.com/dp/098242650X
  
• Maybe they want to make their own? Archeological European view: The Bow Builder's Book: European Bow Building from the Stone Age to Today http://www.amazon.com/dp/0764341537 or for more detail and performance: The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Volume 1 http://www.amazon.com/dp/1585740853
  
• or accessories: Bow Accessories: Equipment and Trimmings You Can Make http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Accessories-Equipment-Trimmings-Make/dp/0764330357
  
  

Any budget or beginner bow would do.

Check out PSE snake recurve twin bow. Usually go for below 60$ and are high enough quality. Make sure you get one below 30# if you want to keep your friends.

As for arrows, you'll want to buy some soft heads and a few arrows with screw inserts. Dont break the bank on archery tag arrows.

Dont forget face/eye/ head protection. Paintball masks work


Snake recurve
https://www.als.com/pse-bow-snake-recurve/p?idsku=525202&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp525202&sc_intid=525202&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoIPvBRDgARIsAHsCw09H6mosZ6QWqPhFJHtplT-_oy4GpfDzAQ4008WPlqrLUqX7B4FMJV4aAkzvEALw_wcB

Velidy Sponge Foam Tipped Hunting Arrowhead Broadhead Tips 10pcs for LARP Archery Battle Tagging Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J3G6V68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pNu4DbRWZ1WXJ

Some super cheap arrows with tips.
Musen 30 Inch Carbon Archery Arrows, Spine 500 with Removable Tips, Hunting and Target Practice Arrows for Compound Bow and Recurve Bow, 12 Pcs Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DPTHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DOu4DbXJRAP0G

Core Archery by Larry wise is probably the highest rated. It's only 8 bucks and has everything to do with proper archery form. It also has good pictures to go with the explanations. Can't recommend this enough if you like reading and want a better understanding of proper form.

> pvc

That's your ticket.

If you've got the pipe already you need a couple bucks worth of paracord (Home Depot, sporting goods, or camping supply store should carry it).

A PVC bow is a good way to experiment and see if it's something you really want to pursue. The biggest investment will be the arrows, you can get them for pretty cheap. They won't be quality but you don't need quality at this stage. A serviceable PVC bow with a couple basic arrows will get you going.

Word to the wise, if the arrows crack, split, chip, or otherwise break do not shoot them again. Fiberglass splinters are a nightmare to get out once they've gotten stuck in your skin.

The bow she used at camp was either this one, or a PSE Razorback (Supposedly they're the same bow, but with different logos):

http://www.amazon.com/Spirit-Take-Down-Recurve-Bow/dp/B00H94AB4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419114055&sr=8-1&keywords=spirit+bow

It's actually the bow I have. I've really enjoyed it. My friend I shoot with has a Samick Sage, the primary difference I've noticed is that the Samick Sage has a smaller grip. I can wrap my fingers all the way around the sage, but with the Spirit, if I were to grip it tight, the tips of my fingers would barely touch. They shoot very similarly. (At least at our novice level)

Given money constraints, I'd have no problem buying the Spirit over the Sage to save $40.

I have an old Grayling jig from the 90's. It was a hand-me-down/freebie. It's basically a plastic version of the Bitzenburger. I have fletched many dozens of arrows with it and I plan to fletch many dozens more. After a quick google search, I see that the Grayling Fletching Jig is still available today, and $29 for a complete setup seems like a reasonable deal. I just found a right helical clamp for it for about $10.

If this jig had not been given to me for free I would have been skeptical about it and I am sure I would have never purchased one based on online pictures, but the jig has definitely been a work horse. The only routine maintenance that I do on this jig is to check the nock alignment before I start and to adjust the nock rotation if I want the cock feather up instead of out.

If I was going to get a new fletching jig today, I would probably get one of the Bohning Feather Tower Fletching Jigs that does three feathers or vanes at one time.

I use something similar, the Grayling Fletching Jig. Should work about the same as the one you linked, so I think it's a worthy investment. I chose this because I didn't want a bright red one. Haha.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Block-Youth-Archery-Arrow-Target/dp/B00RH65IMA/ref=sr_1_6.)

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Buy a copy of Core Archery. Fantastic book for compound shooting. http://www.amazon.com/Core-Archery-Shooting-Proper-Tension/dp/0913305189

Yes, and I realize that this is all very vague. I'll try to post some pics when I get a chance.

The bow is a Barnett Sportflight Recurve Archery Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R9QTFY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pZXAxb4BRB41Q

http://imgur.com/1HdrSAu. When I pull back, the arrow still kind of angles like this. Does that help explain my question, I'm sorry if I'm being too unclear.

What you need is a regular stick-on rest; the one that was on there was probably a Bear Weather Rest which can be found pretty much anywhere that sells archery gear of any kind.

Sure.

Here's a little list:

-It can be a good practice to unstring your bow between uses so that it doesnt develop "set" where the limbs remain bent. This one mostly depends on what the bow is made of. Modern materials and laminated woods tend to not have this problem, pure woods do, and horn bows do.

-Use a bow stringer when possible, because otherwise you can risk putting unnessesary strain on the bow. Good ones can go for as little as $10.

Heres the one I use
Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L9C7SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRtHDbPX4783V

• store it horizontally, so that both limbs are kept under equal pressure.
  
  -Dont leave it in direct sunlight, or uber high heat.
  
  
• Dry it off if it gets wet. A little water isnt too bad for laminated wood, but should be removed before it reenters storage.

Just get on there and shoot what you want. Sounds like you're attracted to "traditional" archery now, so go for that. If you want to expand and try new things later (which you probably will) then go for it then.

One thing I have not seen mentioned yet is that you can usually go shooting on National Forest lands. State Forest lands may be an option as well. Check county ordinances too, as you can usually shoot if you're in unincorporated land at least a certain distance from inhabited dwellings. If you're just starting out, you can get a youth Block target for around $40 from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Block-Youth-Archery-Arrow-Target/dp/B00RH65IMA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502379284&sr=8-6&keywords=block%2Btarget&th=1&psc=1). Take the target and your bow and just go shoot.

That's not me in the picture lol. But I received the blue one. Comes without a rest, and I just ordered this one yesterday. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stringer that's easy to use, inexpensive, and robust: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L9C7SQ/

Accessories are up to you. Depends on how you plan to shoot - rest vs shelf? Glove vs tab?

Arm guard is a must, pick one you can afford. A cheapo caribiner is nice for keeping your string twisted when your bow is unstrung. A recurve case is a must, to keep all your kit together, no problem with a zippered soft case - especially one that comes with an arrow tube.

String wax is cheap and good to have for both the string and keeping your arrow points from coming unscrewed all the time. A quiver is also a must, and the style is up to your preference.

There's probably a lot more, but this is what I could think of as immediate buys.

Contact them and ask what they supply.

My wife did this for me. The place she picked supplied the equipment and coached us along through the basics. They offered two courses that meet each Saturday for six weeks. At the end of the second course we decided we liked it so much that we went to a 'local' pro-shop and got set up with decent equipment that should last us for quite some time. I put local in quotes because the closest pro-shop to us is a 90 minute drive.

Now we've joined a local club, shoot regularly and are thinking of going to some tournaments.

For books, here's the two I bought:

Archery - Steps to Success

Archery - USA Archery

Everything cost me about $150 on Amazon. This is the one I got:

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H94AB4A/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

Absolutely. You can go spend $300 on a crossbow and be shooting golf ball sized groups at 40 yards immediately with it. Bring a rangefinder and know which crosshair to use at which range. Looks to be legal during archery season in Texas. It's a no brainer in this situation.

My buddy got one of these last year for ~$250, I couldn't believe how quiet it was for such a fast xbow and so cheap.

https://smile.amazon.com/CenterPoint-Sniper-370-Crossbow-Package/dp/B06Y2KFCJR/

I shoot a wicked ridge invader g3, it's louder than his, but does have a nicer trigger. There are tons of options out there of course.

Nothing's wrong with fiberglass. I'm implying that cheap fiberglass bows, such as this one, generally aren't very good. There's a huge difference between a $150 wooden takedown bow and a $50 fiberglass "recurve" that feels like plastic.

Here is the desktop version of your link

You can get them in many places: UK, US.

These helped me:

• Watch NUSensei's videos.
  
  
• Got this book from the library
  

Forgot the link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVUMEH4/ref=s9_simh_hm_bEFLR_d0_g200_i15

Thank you! Apologies for falling asleep. NuSensei has been one of the leading sources of information honestly he does a very good job explaining some things to avoid and shows some of the best practices (like not starting off with a 50 pound bow) I have been looking for something that goes a little more into technical form to review. In the mean time I wanted to give it a shot with what I've learned so far. I know I'd rather not put bad habits into practice early on but not having a standard instructor close by I'm going to do what I can. As far as arrows go I'll link them in an edit momentarily.

Edit:Tiger Archery 30Inch Carbon Arrow Practice Hunting Arrows with Removable Tips for Compound & Recurve Bow(Pack of 12) (Black White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y4MVLKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V2ZIDbYRS382W

I have a sneaking suspicion that they aren't particularly the best. I did go cheaper because I planned on losing a few.

I'm running low on arrows and I'm trying to figure out what I should replace them with. Are cheap arrows like these...

• https://www.amazon.com/GPP-Carbon-30-Inch-Replaceable-Compound/dp/B01B49D2FK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Archery-Practice-Removable-Compound/dp/B06Y4MVLKD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
  
  ... at all functional with a (mostly) traditional horse bow? The bow doesn't have a window, so the plastic vanes will deflect more than the feather-fletched arrows I currently use. But would it be so much as to render them useless for someone building skills? (Read: not a great shot and unlikely to worry about an extra centimeter in his groupings at 20 meters).

What Lars says is to some extent based on what he supposedly read in Arab Archery (I wrote "supposedly" since I have not read it myself so I can only assume). As to why he says things the way he does? Well, it's a YouTube video. It needs to "sell" itself. He did it to stir things up and get traction. Or atleast that's what I choose to believe since the alternative would be "Lars is silly and actually believes the nonsense he's saying". However don't be the other side of the coin and go "hurr durr, history bows were 180 lbs war bows" etc. There were many kinds of bows. It's a topic as wide as the sea.

It's an old discussion and I'd say it's not worth your time. It was commented to death many times allready.

I anchor my knuckles on my cheek right up against my ear. It brings about more repeatability due to parts of the body lining up.

Arab archery manuals describe an Occluded Eye aiming technique for aiming. You use parts of your bow's belly and or hands as aiming points, keep both eyes on the target, and line up the aiming points on your bow/hand to put the arrow where you want it to go. As with all things, this requires good form and a clean release.

Vertical stringing can be caused by several things. Shoulder collapse, inconsistent anchor point, shifting the arrow by pressing too hard against the arrow with your ring finger, not placing your hand on the bow in the same way, etc. Horizontal stringing can be caused by many things. Bad release, poor khatra, arrows with too weak of a spine, etc.