(Part 3) Top products from r/AskTechnology

have you tried it in another outlet on a different wall in the same room? That's not foolproof, but sometimes it is on a different circuit.

You may have a grounding problem in the entire house. because think about it: how long does it take the stereo to "come up" when you turn it on? 2 secs? That switch flip may be spiking the stereo and causing it to restart which could default to 'pass thru' on anything connected until it's up.

At a minimum, have an electronics savvy friend come over and ground test your outlets. It's not hard, it just requires a tool you likely don't have. A line conditioner will help and be relatively cheap, but it's a bandaid really.

A simple, inexpensive solution MIGHT be to put your stereo on a grounding adapter but that's only guaranteed to work if the outlet is grounded. If you do this and the problem does not go away, then you should call an electrician.

Bottom line is that stuff on the same circuit shouldn't be getting spiked like that from flipping a switch. Get it fixed soon... every flip of a switch is like getting a good hit in the head with a ball-peen hammer. the first 10 or 20 aint much, but then it starts to hurt and will eventually make you wonder why you're hitting yourself in the head with a hammer.

They are probably different colors so the installer knew which speaker went to which room. A piece of tape on the cables in the garage does about the same thing but I digress. Looks like 4 rooms worth of speakers? 4 separate bundles of cables? Looks like 8 total speakers, or at least 4 stereo speakers (meaning the left and right both go to 1 speaker).

Make sure you don't hook up all 8 to 1 source without something in the middle. I don't know the math, but each set of speakers changes the resistance causing problems with the amp. Use one of these to hook all the speakers up, then hook up a receiver.

https://www.amazon.com/Niles-VCS-HUB8-Control-Distribution/dp/B00092LNWI

If you want to control each room separately, you'd need to wire in volume controls for each set somewhere, but that's going to be more work.

https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mount-Control-Knob-Wall/dp/B000V52CP0?ref_=ws_cp_c41569dcdeb0866f82ca_p_3_i_p

If you are willing to spend the time the best router in my opinion is the ASUS RT-N16 with Open source DDWRT loaded. Amazon Page for Router

You will have to load the DDWRT software on the router yourself. However, it is very straight forward and all you need is the DDWRT help page

A guy I work with teaches ethical hacking courses, advises a college cybersecurity club, and maintains an ethical hacking lab. These are all things he's been getting into lately.

Lockpicking set

Or

The Car Hacker's Handbook

+

USB2CAN

+

DB9 to OBDII cable

Or

Tiny quadcopter (upgradeable, has a camera for use with monitors or video goggles to give you a first-person view, fantastic if you have a cat)

+

Transmitter

I meant backups of the digital files. :)

The tapes will wear down eventually, and the digital copies will be the most pristine copies you'll ever have. You'll want to keep backups of the digital copies in case they accidentally get deleted, corrupted, or lost.

Disclaimer - I've never used any product that promised to convert VHS tapes, but theoretically even something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-VC500-digital-converter-Software/dp/B000VM60I8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541086768&sr=8-4&keywords=vhs+to+digital+converter

It appears to plug into an existing VCR. There may be better options on Amazon as it appears some people are having difficulty with that particular software.

Get an RF modulator, like this one, and connect it to a coax splitter. The RF modulator will take a composite video signal and analog audio (ie: the typically yellow+red+white RCA connections) and convert it into a signal on channel 3 or 4 (typically).

You could then use whatever device that you can find that generates composite video. If you want to use a USB drive you will need some kind of relatively modem hardware to decode compressed digital video. You could use a Raspberry Pi. Some models have composite out, and for audio connect a 3.5mm to RCA adapter to the headphone jack.

If the signal to the TVs isn't strong enough, you can get powered splitters that will also amplify the signal. I doubt that will be an issue, though, as the RF modulator itself is powered, and so should be generating a pretty strong signal.

Found one! It works great!


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14X3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sennheiser makes really comfortable headphones. Also, Sony’s over the ear DJ headphones last forever and are really comfortable. Bought these ones for my son when he was in 10th grade, he just finished his first year of college and they’re going strong:

Sony MDR7506 Professional Large Diaphragm Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJIF4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSjdBb079YVJM

They’re also repairable if anything happens to the wiring. Someone else mentioned skull candy but in my experience they’re really poorly built.

Probably because there isn't really a pressing need to something to replace it. USB is designed for local peripherals, and everybody's stuff already supports it. Most people don't need connectivity over more than 3 meters for USB, and those that do aren't a large enough market segment to justify changing things for everybody, especially when products like this exist.

Also this.

Me again. Had a quick question:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ILWRLI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2LM6ZPY06LT1N

http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Super-USB-Wifi-Antenna/dp/B004UR72IM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422330885&sr=1-1&keywords=Crane+US3

Would either of these products work for my application? My neighbor's router is just a typical indoor router. I can't seem to find a straight answer on if I can just use a powerful antenna on my end to pick up their signal, or if I will need to set up a wireless bridge.

That should work but be aware that USB does have a max length of about 5 meters. So as long as the total cable length is less than 5 meters you should be fine.

If you need a longer run give this a try, I have never used one but it is only $11 so there isn't too much to loose.

There is also this which may work better.

http://www.amazon.com/QOMO-Qomo-QD3600-Digital-Presenter/dp/B003JHJRHI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1393735240&sr=8-7&keywords=handwriting+projector+board

Is good idea.

Something like this is what you're looking for -- a HDMI switch.

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Coaxial-Cable-F-Male-Connectors/dp/B003FVX8GE

Wal-Mart should have them too. Unfortunately Radio Shack no longer exists. Best Buy will likely have them. Target might have them.

At 50 feet / 15 metres you're going to want a good quality cable, that's about the limit for HDMI without seeing signal degredation. Source.

I can't vouch for quality, but here is a 15m HDMI 1.4 cable with decent reviews.

Assuming your talking about hardware here, Yes.
Here's one, but it may me too big for what you're looking for, if it is, then you'll have to do some searching for yourself, because I can't find many smaller ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-VGA-HD-AV-Cable/dp/B000B6MLTG

You want a composite capture card (or external usb version).

Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hauppauge-610-USB-Live-Digitizer-Capture/dp/B0036VO2BI/

You will not use the device you have. However, you don't want to upscale to HDMI before capturing anyway. It would be a needless waste of capture space and it is harder to capture.

I think you need this? No idea though, I just googled the name of your tablet and HDMI and that was the top link...

Scratch that, the Amazon page it only works with the 8.3, the 8.0 doesn't support wired video-out. The only thing you can do is cast video. Do the Chromecast thing the other guy suggested instead.

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs