(Part 2) Top products from r/AudioPost

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We found 17 product mentions on r/AudioPost. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/AudioPost:

u/kaiwolf26 · 9 pointsr/AudioPost

Post sound is a difficult world to get into. I tried to go the "no school" route before I gave up and enrolled. I learned more in my first quarter than I did from a year of teaching myself. I know for a fact it's do-able because people make it in without a degree. I'm just not entirely sure how they manage to teach themselves everything they know.

There are lots of very specified jobs that require different sets of skills.

Based on what skill set you want to focus on, you'll need access to different types of equipment.

There are two ways you can go in post production, you can either work for a post house, or work as a freelancer as a supervisor.

I'm going to focus on a post house route.

If you choose to work at a post house (in America), you'll need to know Pro Tools. In many places in Europe you will need to know Nuendo. There's slim to no wiggle room in this regard. Both of these programs are designed for the types of workflows required in post production from receiving an OMF to delivering editing sessions built for a mixing stage.

In a full fledged tv editing job, you'll need to be able to turn over a 30 minute tv show in 2-3 days. Frankly, the type of people who can do this have been working on television for the last 10-20 years. I personally have a huge admiration for these editors. A lot of people criticize how bad television shows sound these days, but knowing what's happening behind the scenes you really have to admire what they're able to pull of in such a short amount of time.

Independent features in a post house have similar frames of time. You might have a day or a week depending on what the producers set aside as a budget for post sound

Probably the lowest prerequisite job in a post house is an assistant editor, or a tech. They're surprisingly hard jobs to get, but they're great for getting your foot in the door.

Assistant editors are often the people who clean up sessions, re-label sfx, archive tapes, and perform session conforms. A lot of this work is deceptively difficult, and is worth reading about more in depth.

Techs are usually the people who keep things running properly. I can't remember too much about the common pre-reqs for this job, but I know that having pro-tools certifications are helpful to have. (In America at least)


Most editing positions are the least hardware intensive

If you decide to work in sound effects or BGs editing, you should know Sound Miner. As far as I've experienced so far, it's the industry standard for sound effects management and editing.

These two jobs are extremely stylistic and rewarding jobs, but it's a two edged sword. You're in service to a director and a sound supervisor. Your job is to give them what they want, and you need to be the type of person who can keep their opinions to themselves and do what you're told. You might work meticulously on a scene only to have one of these two people say they hate it and have to start over again. You'll find more and more when you work in these positions your job becomes more about good communication than actual editing.

Foley editing is pretty simple and usually doesn't have a single dedicated editor unless you're working on a very foley intensive film.

Dialog editing (aka the dark arts) requires a very specific type of mind set. Creatively it's fairly limiting unless you have a fair amount of time on your hands. Almost every production needs dialog editors, but it's pretty difficult to get into without some form of mentorship. It's impossible to practice unless you're already working on a film. I haven't checked out the new Purcell book, but I really hope the offer an OMF/AFF of a reel to work on.

____

Now on to your specific questions
>
> Is it possible to pick up some books off amazon and start developing a demo reel?

Yes! I think the biggest first step is to get a firm idea of post sound, and the physics involved with audio. I'd strongly recommend
Practical Art of Motion Picture Sound and Audio in Media

I think the biggest thing you need to know about making a demo reel is to get hired at a post house it needs to have original content. No one cares if you re-dub a youtube clip of a movie you like. If they've seen the movie you're re-dubbing, you already lost. It could be an awesome sound replacement, but they know what it's supposed to sound like, and they're looking for a multimillion dollar sound from an amazing sound studio. It's definitely worth adding something that shows you can edit for explosions or action heavy scenes, so in that regard, redoing a youtube clip would be useful.

I would start out with re-doing audio though! It's a good practice, and it helps build a portfolio for freelance clients when you're starting out.

> Any resources that i should look at before i pursue this?

Check out the blog designing sound. A lot of the masters of sound design hang out on this blog. Sound stack exchange You'd actually be surprised who hangs out on this forum. There's a number of knowledgable people who hang out here. I pop in time to time while browsing Reddit to see if anything interesting is happening here, though it's pretty slow.

I saw your exchange with KarateJesus. Be careful how you talk to people online. It doesn't matter now too much, but if you're getting into a field like post sound that's a people's business, you need to treat people as best as you can all the time. He didn't say what you wanted to hear, but a lot of this business is luck. You need to know the right people at the right time. The freelance jobs out there usually come from people you already know in the business. Otherwise keep looking on Craigslist until a job shows up. Another good route is to do work pro-bono for your local college to meet people.

> Would a $1200 online class at berklee be worth it/ help me get started?

No, probably not. I think a one year school could prepare you for how involved post sound is. A four year school couldn't even prepare you really. A class or education can help you better understand what's expected of you in the professional world though. I think most of those programs are designed to make you technically proficient with programs and to get an understanding of the pipeline of post sound, which is not at all what's important. Workflows and technical proficiency change work place to work place. What's most important is that you're a good story teller, and a compatible co-worker everything else is just luck and adaptability to the situation.

TD;LR
Post is demanding, and requires very archaic skill sets. I hope I didn't scare you away from post, but it's good to know what you're potentially getting into.

u/wonkytonk · 1 pointr/AudioPost

NTG-1 is good for outdoor use, but you'll want a windscreen, ideally something like a Rycote, you can check this page: http://mymic.rycote.com/devices/ntg-1/ I would recommend something like the Classic Softie Kit. You can maybe find the parts cheaper, I think Rode actually makes a windsock type thing for the NTG-1.

The DR-40 is all you need (assuming you have an XLR cable to plug the mic into it, if not, then add one of those). My point was that you could maybe find a different recorder that had a lower noise floor if you were taking it back, but try it out with the mic first, if you can, that might make enough of a difference to keep you happy.

I have a mic grip for my shotgun mic, it is basically a shock mount, but one that's designed to be held, rather than mounted on a stand.

https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/74-225_RODE-PG2-R-PISTOL-GRIP-Shock-mount-for-NTG-1-NTG-2-or-NTG-3-microphone

http://puzzleaudio.com/field-foley-with-the-rode-ntg3/

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-PG2-Pistol-ShockMount-Shotgun/dp/B001GZ91MQ

​

Those should give you an idea what I'm talking about, even if the links are a bit random.

Best thing to do is imagine the most common scenarios you'll be in and prep for that. The pistol grip is pretty handy for me most of the time, but I think it mounts on a tripod thread (Euro mic thread), rather than a mic stand thread, not sure if that makes any difference to you.

I'm trying not to throw too much at you at once, you can ask away if you have any questions!

u/shanethp · 3 pointsr/AudioPost

Better fans in your computer. Big noctua fans are very quiet for a lot of airflow.
AMD CPUs are crazy crazy hot, so get a massive water cooler for it. You can buy closed-loop systems that are very little work to install. If you can fit a 360mm radiator in your case, and load the radiator up with nice quiet fans, you’ll likely cool the processor better than with a simple heat sink based radiator and quieter.

Something like this will help keep your processor cool

As for your GPU, whatever you can do to keep it not working too hard while you’re recording. You may need to disable some of your displays while you’re recording.

Power Supply can also make a bit of noise. My audio computer uses an EVGA Gold power supply that has an “eco” switch on it that supposedly makes it quieter by disabling the fan in it. It does disable the fan, but the unit makes a high pitched ringing sound. However, with eco mode off, it’s a very very quiet power supply as the fan does not spin very fast.

u/Doyvid · 3 pointsr/AudioPost

This one is pretty good:

http://www.amazon.com/Design-Science-Fiction-William-Whittington/dp/0292714319

It touches on horror a little bit, but is a great read either way. It's more about the philosophical approach to genre sound, rather than the practical approach.

u/HelloMyNameIsBrad · 1 pointr/AudioPost

If that means it will only pay attention to the 'left' signal, then yes. However, if it sums the two inputs together, you wouldn't record anything at all.

A better solution may be to get a proper adapter cable that is designed to take two XLR balanced signals and combine them in stereo to one unbalanced TRS connection. You wouldn't need the 'right' channel, obviously, during mono voiceover recordings, but you'd have the option in the future if you are trying to capture a stereo source. Here's a link to an example: https://www.amazon.com/HOSA-RT-ANGLE-3-5-LENGTH/dp/B000068O5K/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506093409&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=2+xlr-f+to+1%2F8%22+trs

Either way, it does make more sense to record a voiceover in mono, but just make sure that if you're doing it with your current adapter you consider the two scenarios at the beginning.

u/Littlegriznaves · 4 pointsr/AudioPost

http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Film-Television-Tomlinson-Holman/dp/0240813308

Is actually an awesome book on Sound, location and post. It starts with a basic explanation of sound propagation and frequency range, but then moves into booming techniques and other sorts. Highly recommended.

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/AudioPost

I have two of these and they are excellent.

u/seanrquinn · 1 pointr/AudioPost

They're probably just going to be boiled down versions of this.

Which you can read and apply if you're pretty technical about it. Then you can compile with youtube/google lessons on software.

u/shadowCloudrift · 1 pointr/AudioPost

Thank you. At the very least, I won't have to worry about taping a lavalier under my clothes are having it visibly clipped on.

Would this be a decent shotgun mic without breaking the bank?
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT875R-Gradient-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000BQ79W0/

u/reusablerigbot · 2 pointsr/AudioPost

Trackball can't be beat for editing. For setting sliders/pots/clip positions they're invaluable, because your clicking finger isn't also resting on the device you're using to point with, so when you release the click, it doesn't move or bump the mouse. Plus infinite scrub, just keep on rolling the ball.

Kensington Trackball Pro
They're in Every. Single. Studio. I've ever worked in. Some boards even have a hole cut specially for them. I've seen some editors who literally have never used a computer without one, they can't use a "common" mouse.

I've got a stockpile at this point in case they ever stop making them.