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yeah thats not too bad

remove those anchors and sand the area down

hammer that wheel well straight

then use some kitty hair to fill in the holes and remaining uneven areas

primer

matching paint in a rattle can and 2 coats of clear

it will take you a weekend

if your temps are still 70+ you need that to cure the filler and for the paint

its not going to look perfect but its not going to look like you were trying to hang drywall on your car.

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https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-00277-Glass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

sandable primer filler .. many coats

a can of duplicolor spray paint and clear

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and that depends on how much you care about the paint.. duplicolor will be better than you have if you spray just that area .. don't spray the door.. and the paint won't last very long maybe 1-2 years but its going to look better than holes.. if you want it to look good and last you have to use professional paint which will cost you about $100 for a kit of paint at a local autobody supplier with clear and then you need a compressor and paint gun.

vs $10 in spray paint at your local autoparts store for matching paint which might be kinda somewhat close .. don't paint the door or much of the quarter panel .. tape and news paper off everything but about an inch from the damage .. its gonna look better than it does and cost you $40 for both sides vs $400

Do you have a picture of the damage? Depending how deep it is you’re gonna want to start with 80 or 150 grit. Sand it down as much as you can to level out that scratch. It’s best to use an actual palm sander when doing this otherwise you’re going to be sanding for a while. You must keep the sander moving in an area larger than the scratch....think shaving a layer all around so it’s even and will make your feathering easier. Don’t use traditional bondo, they make plastic filler (https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/evercoat-poly-flex-flexible-polyester-glazing-putty-411-p-15571.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImYjOtbKS3gIVS0wNCh0_6gLVEAQYASABEgJsm_D_BwE) which has flex in it made for plastic body parts. I use that at work but it’s expensive...you can find a cheaper one. The traditional “bondo” is meant for metal panels and it will crack on a plastic bumper. I put that on before I feather out because you’re gonna want sand that down with 150 also. After you got it nice and level go to 240 and then 320 grit sand paper. Then you may prime it. I usually go 3-4 coats of primer. Sand that down with 600. Ideally you don’t want to just paint right over the primer. I use sealer that is meant for plastic parts but if it’s a DIY at home you can probably get away with not doing that if you wanna save some bucks by using this https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39133-Flexible-Primer-Surfacer/dp/B000HAXLZO So then yes base coat then clear coat. Take your time if you have any questions just ask.

You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.

As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

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i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

This is directly in front of the passenger-side front tire. The plastic piece has a chunk that looks like it got ripped out, and the part that’s hanging down is making scraping sounds when I drive at high speeds.

After some googling, it looks like it might be a part of the fender liner, like the one shown here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ1ZR26/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_vPKLDb54HNE9Z

Can anyone confirm, or offer any insight?

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

Are you talking about sealing your air fittings? I would use something like Loctite 565. You don’t need thread locker on tapered pipe fittings.

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-636425-04647-SpeedGrip-Urethane-Structural/dp/B00AC26OG0

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08571-Manual-Cartridge-Applicator/dp/B002QWYG1O

There ya go.

Edit: yes I know that is norton, however when it comes to the glues they are about the same as 3m and much cheaper./

I ended up buying some of these badge holders:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011EO8CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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So far they have been working out fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Red-Portable-Hydraulic/dp/B000OQ3Y62/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=frame+puller+tool&pd_rd_i=B000OQ3Y62&pd_rd_r=3b69494d-750b-45b0-abac-3f9cf7ca9e0f&pd_rd_w=SY3SU&pd_rd_wg=OtJRJ&pf_rd_p=d006b618-5fac-44e6-850d-a0fdd19f7847&pf_rd_r=WF3YHER1JEC81ZYYPHGG&qid=1571798900&sprefix=frame+puller

DeVilbiss 802343 Auto Painting/Priming Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G4ZTVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jf15Cb0BFQMKE

Sand it out, repaint it, bolt it down with some strip caulk (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NH6ZCbHMZQ2RG ) to seal around the holes and keep leaks from happening

Actually let me just link you to exactly what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/CNBTR-Dispenser-Impression-Dispensing-Applied/dp/B01D4681G6/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2/141-2050494-1265255?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D4681G6&pd_rd_r=f6ca0f59-6e98-4cfc-8a3f-f5d726446dbb&pd_rd_w=ngAq9&pd_rd_wg=cNSSS&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=PJBE41JF1Z0EBR2NRP5G&psc=1&refRID=PJBE41JF1Z0EBR2NRP5G

https://www.amazon.com/3M-38191-Static-Cartridges-Nozzles/dp/B00596QVHG/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2/141-2050494-1265255?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00596QVHG&pd_rd_r=5ea4a61b-5dd6-4688-9e41-8422b49448e9&pd_rd_w=vZ0hX&pd_rd_wg=YhAbo&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=S796TN6KSE7DJXJK9EW7&psc=1&refRID=S796TN6KSE7DJXJK9EW7

https://www.amazon.com/3M-38315-Panel-Bonding-Adhesive/dp/B00596RP8A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=38H2QXBZETFSM&keywords=3m+panel+bond+adhesive&qid=1571759871&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=3m+panel+bond+a%2Clawngarden%2C175&sr=8-7

3M 05917 Weld-Thru Coating II - 12.75 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PG4E0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x-eVCbFB4Z2AP