Top products from r/BeardieInfo
We found 2 product mention on r/BeardieInfo. We ranked the 2 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Nubee NUB8550H Digital Infrared Thermometer -58°F~ 1022°F with Adjustable Emissivity & Max Display Non-Contact Temperature Gun with Laser Thermometer for Cooking Meat Kitchen Refrigerator Pool Oven
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Show Reddit reviews2. Digital Infrared Thermometer, Non-Contact Laser IR Temperature Gun Instant-read with 2 AAA Batteries(Included) Emissivity 0.95(fixed) Range -50 to 380℃(-58 to 716℉)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Temperature range: -50 ~ 380℃ (-58~716℉); Accuracy: ±1.5% or ±1.5℃; Distance to Spot Size: 12:1 ; Emissivity: 0.95(fixed); Response Time: <500ms.Optional Laser Target Pointer and Backlight ON/OFF, convenient to accurate targeting and operate in case of poor illumination; ℃/℉ button — s...
Show Reddit reviews
Ill try to go over your concerns, i hate quote posts but here we go.
>so I got the 40 gallon
Good choice
> Warm Light
Consider that your dragon will need temps from 90 - 100f 10 hours a day in his basking spot down to no lower than the upper 70's in his chilling spot. Buy [This](https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer- Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_3? ie=UTF8&qid=1482273280&sr=8-3&keywords=ir+thermometer+gun) no really, go buy it now.
If that bulb which sounds like its one of the little spotlights can keep your tank to that temp then great, if not you want to look at heating solutions, a ceramic heat bulb is a favourite, relatively low cost and high heat out put, very high so be careful ive clocked mine at over 220f.
> I set everything up including adding the sand to the bottom
Nope. I mean shes your pet but sand is harmful, especially to a young lizard, you will notice they lick EVERYTHING this means all that sand may build up and cause compaction, which is where the content of the gullet presses against the spinal cord eventually severing it. Key Hint: Never feed your lizard a item of food larger than the space between its eyes.
I would use kitchen paper for now as she will be a little poop monster but eventually switch out to tile, you can use chia seeds or the like as a bathing area for her to dig.
The size of the tank can be a problem, just slide a cardboard divider in half the tank, you will be taking it out soon enough.
Now, regarding food. In the juvenile stage you should be feeding her exclusively protein based foods, insects, then after a few months move to some greens uptill adulthood where it should be no more than 80% greens to 20% insects.
This si where it gets fun, those dried flukers insects you bought, go throw them away, one of the largest problems with keeping dragons is hydrating them they dont really drink, they absorb moisture through their food and skin, feeding them dried food means they have to use moisture to digest it, so rather than be a gain its a loss, im surprised they even sell that trash.
What i and many would reccomend is the good old dubia blaptica. The NUMBER one best feeder and the worlds worst roach. Many of us keep a small colony of these things as free feeders as you will notice the cost of insects is going to be one of the highest, there are many many good sites online to guide you in this process, in the meantime try to avoid crickets, they smell and are noisy.
UV light wise, as long as it is a strip light and INSIDE the tank (the UVB she needs is 99% reflected by glass) and she can be in bright direct light for at least 10 hours a day she will be fine.