(Part 2) Top products from r/BmwTech

Got a smart phone?

Reader 1

Reader 2

I don't know how shipping works to Canada, but it isn't too expensive of a product, and I am sure you can find it locally. It is a very handy tool.

That sounds like pretty good fuel econ lol. With my tune my 335i gets around 14-18 MPG

Let me start by saying i think i over did it, but I am happy with the results

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Let's start with what I purchased:

1. Turtle Wax 50764 Drill-Based Headlight Restorer
   
2. 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System
   
3. Turtle Wax T-43 (2-in-1) Headlight Cleaner and Sealant - 9 oz
   
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   Then this is the process I used:
   
   
4. Start dry sanding with 3M #1 and then #2 Disc
   
5. Wet sand with Turtle wax #1 > #2 and finally 3M #3 disc
   
6. Buff with Turtle Wax compound, repeat this step until i was happy
   
7. Apply clear coat from TurtleWax kit
   
8. Apply sealant from TurtleWax kit
   
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   I plan to touch up with the TurleWax sealant every 8 weeks.
   
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I just ordered this Heli-Coil thread repair kit. It seems like a good option to keep the stock bolts all 6mm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKPXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has really good reviews too!

Amazon has one: https://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Auxiliary-Assembly-select/dp/B001G8HGPC

Im sure the dealer has one as well. I dont think they gonna be cheap though. Could look into just a universal aux fan and see if it works okay.

I don't know anything about any of that, but in mine I just purchased a $15-30 bluetooth receiver that works extremely well. In the e90 in particular it's nice because you can leave it plugged into the arm rest socket.

The unit is really just the controller piece, which you can stick anywhere on your dash (I stuck next to the iDrive wheel).

I'm talking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493952251&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+car+bluetooth

Do not go to a dealer for detailing work, ever. Dealer detailing departments are some of the worst things out there. I'm speaking both as someone who has 2 friends working at a BMW dealer, and someone who had a Ford dealer's detailing dept put scratches in the rear bumper of a brand new 2016 Mustang GT that won't come out.

I like using this stuff, you're going to need a few stiff bristle brushes as well

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https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-543200-755-Engine-Cold-Cleaner/dp/B00OA1QJZU

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if you need to go hard core

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https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-FEB1-Foamy-Engine-Cleaner/dp/B000ABGA6W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V91WZBBEDC95KC20P14J

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join up on /r/autodetailing as well

Consider one of these, they do better for small hoses https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-FI6/dp/B0040CU0HM

It's definitely leaking right at the connection?

I'm with /u/pina_koala on this. It looks like surface damage of some sort. You could try this. It's pretty cheap and easy to try it out. It is also available at most part stores.

Get him a year's subscription to the BMW CCA
https://www.bmwcca.org/
their Roundel magazine is just the best car mag ever.

or get him this excellent book:
http://www.amazon.com/Memoirs-Hack-Mechanic-Rob-Siegel/dp/0837617200

If your actuator needs replacement, do it yourself. That was literally the first job I ever did on my 2008 328i. You can do it.

It is a PITA, and can be time consuming (especially depending on how good the adhesive holding your moisture barrier is), but there's really nothing you can honestly screw up or make worse unless you drop the window glass...which isn't an expensive replacement anyway =)

As long as you have the right tools, get the correct part, and have a bunch of door fasteners handy (because every other one is going to break, they are a PITA too), it's a super inexpensive job that doesn't even require too much in the way of tools.

Edit: I dug back through my archives and pulled the relevant resources I used. Should be similar for a 2006 I imagine.

• The front actuator set I bought. Don't know if the 2006 uses the same part number, but decent reference at least.
  
  
• The door panel fasteners that I keep handy for work involving the doors. Again, at least a reference.
  
  Helpful DIYs and videos:
  
  http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477507&page=3
  
  http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6713414&postcount=40
  
  https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/BODY-Door_Panel_Replacement/BODY-Door_Panel_Replacement.htm
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=em9TdvaB0_8
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaEunU4T7Qk
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMPTAypu4R4
  
  
  And of course, your relevant Bentley manual is always a good thing to have.

Another option that I used to do is to use a topsider. Then you don't need to get under the car and deal with the drain plug. This was the solution for me as I didn't have a way to lift my car.

Air Power America 5060TS Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9dNwCbH59VMW3

Apex RLB-2301 Universal Roof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3KSK0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s a link to the set I’m using currently, there’s some added wind noise, but it’s not to bad, and with my roof basket I knew there would be a lot of wind noise anyways, but with the sunroof shade closed it’s not noticeable at all

Just food for thought, instead of having a can of fire seal (I think it wrecks the tire) did you think of putting in safety seal tire plug kit and a compressor ? I put it in my other vehicles trunk since the spare is not inflated so I would need to inflate it then once repaired get it back in. I use that car for road trips and it’s saved me already. Doesn’t take up much space at all.

Also I will be replacing the cabin filter with this : https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001DRHMMS/?coliid=I146T5958EFWPE&colid=232N8YJJCNYCJ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Not to mention the diff fluid has not been changed in 100k km (bought it less than 15k ago)

My E92 w/ sport suspension hits the ramps while driving towards them, so I have to drive onto 2" wood planks first. Even then, as soon as my tires hit the ramps they start pushing them away. It was very sketchy driving on to these. I would perhaps instead get the longer race ramps.

Ultimately though, I went with a QuickJack. It has made working on my BMW not so much of a chore anymore.

Isn't there a Bentley for it?
edit** http://www.amazon.com/Bentley-Paper-Repair-Manual-BMW/dp/B0044A8KRC

Yep, quick google search will show you where they are, Ive had alot of people cause problems by jumping it there. Here is a link to the charger I use on my M cars, I just bought 3 battery leads so I can keep one charger at home and charge any of them. Heres the lead
https://smile.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM-12-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=trickle+charger+lead&qid=1557669815&s=gateway&sr=8-18
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004LX14Z2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B004LX3AXQ&pd_rd_w=VsD2p&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=Edh2V&pf_rd_r=QSZC2Q9P4WH3TEHVZ4J0&pd_rd_r=d60460a4-74be-11e9-a9da-2171f603c15c&th=1

Two common causes for this in the E46:

1. Defective aux fan
   
   
2. Defective HVAC controller module
   
   
3. Defective final stage unit (HVAC blower motor speed controller)
   
   FYI, the proper test equipment for troubleshooting battery draw is a clamp-type meter that has accurate measurement in the mA range. I used the following on my car:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00023RU0S/
   
   The key to testing this is to let the car go to sleep, at which point it should be drawing no more than 35-40mA, and then pulling fuses. This obviously requires the passenger door and trunk to be left wide open so you can monitor the draw on the meter and enter the vehicle to pull the fuses without causing the car to wake up. Some people say that merely pulling fuses will cause the vehicle to wake up. I never got that far so I can't relate whether that's true or false. But unless you have access to BMW SSS, which can allegedly report draw of individual circuits, even historically, that is the process required.
   
   You should also consider the possibility that the battery is just toast. If it's older than 2-3 years and you don't drive every day for at least 15 minutes for each turn of the starter the battery may have a bad cell and so any draw takes it under quickly. Seen that many times. You should have 12.6V +/- 0.2V on the battery with the car off, and 13.8 with the engine running.