(Part 2) Top products from r/Bowyer

For a detailed overview on old bow construction materials, see if your library has or can get a copy of http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Archery-Six-Continents-Collection/dp/0826217516 (ob. discl. I arranged for a second printing). Or see http://www.archerylibrary.com/

Bob W. Kooi has published a fair bit on the physics of archery, starting w/ his thesis: http://www.bio.vu.nl/thb/users/kooi/thesis.pdf --- I believe it touches on materials.

You should be able to get a good overview of recent developments at: http://www.archeryhistory.com/longbows/longbows.htm

Short answer:

• old: natural materials, bow woods such as yew, osage orange, hickory, possibly laminated (backed) w/ sinew, horn, bone, rawhide, fiber, bamboo, other bow woods
  
• new: core materials include true bow woods as well as bamboo and other woods, and various composites such as carbon foam, backing is pretty much universally fiberglass or a carbon composite
  
  Some materials were used anciently and until very recently such as steel.
  
  My suggestion would be to focus on the traditional yew longbow (noting how new growth and old growth wood was used w/in a single stave to form the back and the belly, taking advantage of their differing properties) contrasting it w/ a modern longbow which is well-documented such as the ACS longbow (unfortunately bowmaker.net is off-line, try: http://peteward.com/test.adcockACS.html )

This rasp is great for rapid wood removal and medium wood removal Diamond Nicholson Farrier Rasp File, American Pattern, Rasp Cut, Rectangular, 14-Inch Length https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004HW6AV0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This one is cheaper and only 1 type of teeth but is half round. Great value TEKTON 6695 10-Inch Half Round Wood Rasp https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPT6RU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't know if those are available for you but I recommend them. You just need to make sure the tools you get don't leave any gaps in what you need your tools to do

This is what I've got So far it's done pretty good. Then went to Home Depot and bought a hatchet which really helps for slimming down the wood. But until I've got my own house (in an apartment right now) this is the best I can do :/

Thanks so much!

I do have a few questions, though. I was doing some reading on the sub before making my post, and I had seen some people recommending the Shinto Saw Rasp over the Stanley Surform Rasp (I assume that links to the correct one?). What's your opinion on the matter? I know nothing about rasps (Which I hope to correct) so I'm not sure what makes one rasp better than another.

Also, how does one determine what the draw weight of a bow that they've made is? Is there a way to alter it if it turns out it's too heavy? Again, I haven't read the books in full yet, but I just wanted to get that question out of the way while I was still thinking of it.

Are there any kinds of finishes that are more conducive to making a good seal on a bow that won't potentially affect it? (assuming that adding a stain or finish can affect the performance of a bow)

Start by buying shafts. This is s great and affordable fletching jig: Bohning Pro Class Fletching Tool Right Clamp 1349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AVE3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LOV1Bb6NVT9NM

Spend a little bit of money (Around $20-$30) to buy a Bench Plane, such as this. I found that this tool works really well for forming boards. However, you need to be really careful that you don't take off too much wood.

I have read a lot of good about Tru-Oil on other bow making forums. I am going to try it on my next bow and see how it does.

Depends on how into making bows you get. If you're just making one for a project you'll be fine I guess. But if you get addicted like the rest of us you will soon see how important the string is to a good bow. Dental floss can work in a pinch, but there is no substitute for Dacron woven into a flemmish twist. It's not hard at all to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Brownell-Sport-Pro-B50-String/dp/B000LC8144/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498736893&sr=8-3&keywords=Dacron this is enough Dacron for dozens of strings.

http://www.stickbow.com/stickbow/features/flemishstring/flemishstring.html this is how to make a string. When you get the process down you can make a string in about 10 minutes.

This is the one https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-296-Surform-Plane-Regular/dp/B00002X1ZL

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Farrier-HR15-Outlaw-Horse/dp/B0015SUUK6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427398129&sr=8-2&keywords=farrier%27s+rasp

http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-5-Inch-474-125-0-80-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0001P0PHW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427398157&sr=8-2&keywords=card+scraper

If you have something you can attach this to.

While it really depends on just HOW fine and polished you want to make your edge, any old sharpening stone would do for ya.

I've gone through a few of these over the years, it's not so abrasive that you'll grind away half your knife by accident, but enough to make it work.
https://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Grit-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B000OT1ZOC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1481149234&sr=8-15&keywords=waterstone

I cannot recommend the double sided stones with the low grit on one side, high on the other. The grits get washed together and it kinda ruins both stones pretty quick.