(Part 2) Top products from r/CableManagement

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

On break at work so i’ll make this quick. Most motherboards come standard with these but there are outliers. Looked these up quick just to give you an idea. The right angle side of the cable would plug into your drives and should help you keep away from bending your cables with the back panel. Hope this helped.

Data cables

Power cables

Edit: These are also good to use.

20mm is close to 3/4". Techflex sells their sleeving closed, or opened like this. This stuff looks super clean and still allows you add/remove cables easily. If this will be a one time permanent install you can get their solid stuff and heat shrink the ends.


https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-feet-Black/dp/B0008JF8UK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498840586&sr=1-4&keywords=techflex

I'm quite partial to stuff like this

Haven't used that particular brand, the stuff I have is from Best Buy and has a velcro closure along the split, but I can't find in on their site.

As Unisenon pointed out, Velcro straps are much better than zip ties, as you can add and remove cables easily. The only time I would use zip ties is when you know the two cables won't be separated. (The data and power cables for my USB hub for instance, they both go to the same spot, and I'm not going to be using one without the other.)

• Try to get modular, or semi-modular PSU.
  
  
• First decide on what goes where and what is more likely to get removed. Example, I have routed my 6pin gpu cables last in case I need to change them to 8 pin if when I get that gtx 980 :P
  
  
• Don't bundle/zip-tie too many independent things together. I did that with my fan cables and the SATA cables. Never again.
  
  
• Get some of these and these
  
  
• Try to experiment with different cable routes to maximize the run of longer cables.
  
  
• Don't be afraid to play a bit with the PSU cables to make them more flexible.
  
  
• Hide some stuff in the 5.25" bays. I bought a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter and put my SSD and HDD there and then drilled out the HD bay (took like 5 minutes) to make it look cleaner and improve airflow of front fans.
  
  Here is my rig before I moved the drives and added a second gpu.
  

Here's the link. Its super thick glass, works great for keeping the desktop away from the dusty carpet.

My wallet hates you, but I love you (no homo).

​

Would this be a good choice for aesthetic? https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1750MHz-Express-Graphics-RX-57XL8LBD6/dp/B07XVMXBQW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=rx+5700&qid=1574466574&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Hmm, I use something like this on a Corsair 750D but the cables on mine have smaller spaces than the product page on Amazon so they're a better fit for drive caddies. (the one I used I got from a local computer store)


Could you use this which comes in a 2 pack: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Power-Splitter/dp/B012BPLW08/

You could use something like this outlet tap and it should be safe to connect power strips to it as long as you are not exceeding the power ratings. But I do not know much so do your own research.

Here are the specs:

Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4820K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory| Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MT/s C9 4x 4gb
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair RM1000 80+ Gold
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 PLS
Monitor | Asus PB238Q 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard|Filco Ninja Majestouch-2 w/MX browns
Keyboard | Keycool 84 (white body) w/MX black
Keyboard | KBT Pure Pro 60% w/MX blues
Keyboard|KBT Pure 60% w/MX reds and blue LEDs
Keyboard|Leopold FC660M (gray keycaps) w/MX greens
Keyboard| KBT Pure 60% w/MX whites
Mouse | Mionix Naos 5000 Wired Laser Mouse
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Headphones| AKG K702
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphones | Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Meteor Studio Mic
DAC| Schiit Modi
AMP|Schiit Magni
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Router|Netgear AC1750 R6300v2
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Custom Cables|Made by /u/Lavins

Big thanks to Corsair for sponsoring most of this rig.

Here's the review of the case I released a couple of days ago

Hey, you may try this cable management to hide all the cables. Hope it helps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9ZWH1H

I got 2 of these. You can see good customer submitted pictures of how they mount. I don't love them, but they worked out ok. If you want I can take a closer picture of how they look in my optical bays tonight.

Some basic things to get:
>Wire crimper/stripper

>Fish tape

>Drywall or keyhole saw

Amazon has good prices on tools, boxes, and connection panels.

The power strip is attached with this tape. I used cable clips similar to these but replaced the crappy tape that comes on them with the same stuff I used for the power strip. The ones I actually used I found at Ace Hardware. All of the power bricks are attached with Velcro so that they can be easily removed. I also used these cable ties so, again, everything can be easily removed. I was able to pick it all up at Ace Hardware but if you're not near one of those I'm sure Homedepot or any hardware store should carry most of this stuff. Hope this helps!

THose green cables are actually just cable extensions. I find them to be useful rather than buying specific cables per power supply. You can find these exact cables here: www.amazon.com/uphere-Sleeved-Cable-extension-extra-sleeved/dp/B074M6X4FB/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1525298386&sr=8-8&keywords=cable+extensions+green+pcie

Velcro strips could help a lot, otherwise maybe a cable sleeve to keep everything together? You could get a wall cable concealer too?

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-C110-White-Cordmate-Kit/dp/B00004W3ZP/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1394736388&sr=1-1

Hi,You can try our cable management kit.it would be work for you!

It will effectively organize and hide messy TV / computer cords and cables easily.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9ZWH1H

cable raceway + box would make it look neater.

StarTech 22U Rack, which I got through my old work on Amazon Business for $625.

I bought a staple gun specifically designed for cable runs, and I've used it in multiple apartments to run ethernet cables along baseboards, door frames, wainscoting, etc. It uses special staples that are U-shaped (rather than rectangular), the staples go in far enough to hold the cables taut (but a good solid yank on the cable will pull them out), and the holes it leaves behind are so small as to be unnoticeable... or at least, I've never gotten dinged for them on my move-out inspections.

This is similar to the one I got, but you can get a cheap one for about $10 at home depot as long as you don't need to use it on hardwood or anything particularly tough to pierce.

ummmm... I'm guessing the description on amazon.ca is bogus?

It seems to be talking about a cable..

I got you, I mounted a heavy af power brick under my desk with this Viaky 30 Pcs Black Clips Self... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6U9Q9C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and this Scotch Indoor Mounting Tape,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKPHZ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Has not come off since putting it on around 2 months ago, not even a little sag. I used the 2 clips to hold each cable on each end and used 2x scotch to hold it up, can use more if you need.

Up here sells a set of green cable extensions.

upHere Sleeved Cable - Cable Extension for Power Supply with Extra-Sleeved 24-PIN 8-PIN 6-PIN 4+4 PIN - Green with Cable Combs(11.8 inch/ 30CM),SC303 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M6X4FB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VjOJDbRM050NZ

Get one of these and a second surge protector if you're under 10A total draw from the outlet.

I've decided to use this along with 2 of these

I also have an electrician coming to see about adding another wall outlet.

How did you move the drives to the 5.25 bays? I bought this a while ago, but they wouldn't work with the tool-less bay system.

These are actually not LED's, they are cold cathode tubes. You can get them in whatever color you'd like, but you do have to hide the little inverter box somewhere in your case. Link.

Any of the Carbide cases, the 600T fuck it, all the Corsair cases. Antec P280.... I think your condition of having well-placed cable tie-downs is made moot by the ability to use stuff like this and these.

Just because it doesn't come with them built into the motherboard platen (o_O) doesn't mean that case should be excluded just because of that. You're putting a lot of lesser quality cases on that list and missing out the champs that have been used multiple times over by people on this subreddit and others.

Hum, is your "tower of power" coming down from the ceiling (like you see with cubicle clusters)? Or do you have a stand alone tower that simply sits upright on the floor?

Are they fixed height standing desks? Just get some adhesive wire channels and stick them to the underside of the desks perpendicular to the "tower of power". That will handle the cables coming from the tower.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-C110-1-channel-CordMate-White/dp/B00004W3ZP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483634848&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+channel