(Part 2) Top products from r/CarAV

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

I'm not sure if Frys sells it or not but I'd say to go with the BOSS R1100M amp. This subreddit will disapprove of it but it's $55 and will do what you want it to. Here it is on Amazon. I don't think you can do any better in that price range. Be careful not to blow the sub you get with it though. (If you get something rated lower) If you go with the pioneer, you're looking at $110 + $55 + $15 for wiring. Grand total of $180 for your subwoofer. You still have 120-170 left for a head unit so you should be able to get something nice. I would just try to save as much as I can on the stereo though & just put the money towards another mod/maintenance on your car. I'm guessing your plan is to just have your passenger to just put their feet on top of the subwoofer box? This could be risky (damaging it) but you don't know until you try it.

Here's another option for a compact sub if you want to save more money. I've heard good things about skar audio so maybe it's worth a try.

Skar audio sub 12" 2ohm

It's also 2ohm vs 4 on the pioneer so it'll be more efficient. There's a 10" version if you prefer that for $10 less.

A cassette aux adapter is probably the simplest.

Next would be a battery or cigarette outlet powered FM transmitter.

Next would be a hard wired FM transmitter. They also exist in Bluetooth flavors. The quality is absolutely better than the previous FM transmitter but they still aren’t the best and require you to be on a FM station to use.

Next would be vehicle specific interface like this or one from USAspec or gromaudio. They work by tricking the factory radio into thinking a factory CD changer or SAT radio is connected. They can be as basic as a AUX input but also come in limited USB flavors as well as Bluetooth streaming and / or hands free flavors. They don’t always work the way you’d expect and can be clunky to use.

And finally would be an aftermarket replacement radio. Arguably the most expensive solution depending on the radio choice but has the potential to be the best solution with seamless functionality as well as increased functionally.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

What are your goals for the system? What is your budget?

The LOC is solid. The Alpine amp is good but expensive. The Alpine speakers are okay if you like how they sound. The JL sub amp combo is super expensive for a meh subwoofer.

If you are serious about Sound Quality then the DSP would be high on the list of needs especially if keeping the stock headunit. You could get something like the JL Audio Fix and you wont need the LOC.

Noico is good for CLD. Not sure how much you plan on doing sound deadening wise but here is a budget minded set up. The material is listed in the comments.

Yes you can run with the factory wires.

I don't usually recommend PowerBass because they're a budget brand, but you have a budget and that's exactly what budget brands are perfect for - these will be pretty good for the money . May as well get the matching coaxials to round out your other pair.

this is an excellent 4-channel amp - and it has balanced inputs & signal sensing auto-engage so you don't need that line out converter thing. Even has a summed line out to drive your future subwoofer.

Then of course, an amp kit for power ... that gets you in under bucks with fairly good equipment.

Have you looked into alpine type r's? You can pick up a 12 for around 150.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK/ref=sr_1_1?s

That's a D4 but you can pickup a D2 as well. Have you thought about that route or not? Or are you waiting on an amp first?

The alpine type r 12's can handle around 1000 watts rms each so I suggest getting an amp at around that or a little bit higher. Take the ohms into account though.

The cheapest suggestion I could make would be to get an alpine type r 12. something like a hifonics brutus amp or if you want to get one of the best at about double the cost--still under 300... http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY

With the money left over talk to some shops near you to see if any build custom boxes--if you can't. With them building it you can probably get by with a decent mdf box for about 150, a good one for around 200. Add in styling/fiberglass it will inch up to around 400+. At least in my area, yours may be a bit different.

Whichever sub/setup you choose just don't skimp on the box it may not seem like it would matter that much but it does.

As for the previous advice on not buying a prefab box? I would agree in most scenarios, but it's not an absolute. A pre-fab box that's cheap, and just a general box? Yeah don't even think about those. If you can find one that's made for the sub you want, and it's made out of decent material? Then yeah check it out.

I recently overhauled my sound system in my '10 Civic SI because either the stock HU or amp was going out, and the stock sub gave out. I tried my best to stay budget friendly and I'm more than happy with my setup.

AMP I got from a friend as an open box unit, for $80.

Front and rear Speakers $40x2, came with mounting hardware and wires = $80 total.

Head unit
$70, I think the hardware for install was an additional 30$ = $100 total.

Sub Best buy has it on sale for $50.

Sealed Enclosure $30 from amazon.


That's $340 total and I did the install myself. I'm not too big into car audio all of the items I choose were due to customer reviews/ decent price point. Hope this helps.









Edit: Just realized, you referring to digital screen unit meaning a double din. Ignore all that, at that budget just get a double din and better door speakers, and upgrade as you go.

If you want the best of the best I'd say Kollossus, Ensolite and some 1lb/sq. ft. MLV like this or the stuff they sell at SDS.

A good budget setup would be the RAAM products plus cheaper MLV wherever you can find it. Typically the budget stuff will be lighter at ~.75lb/ft and will have a textile backing.

Important to remember is that CLD and foam will cut down panel resonance and rattling that comes from it, but without MLV road noise such as wind/tire noise won't be lessened much. It really depends on how much you are willing to spend and what the goal is. A Lexus is going to have some pretty good deadening from the factory also, so consider that as well.

Check the /r/CarAV side bar for the approved gear link for more suggestions. These are on sale and are definitely a step up from the Fosgate

https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS

The Hertz HSK line is even better but the ones I linked look like they're on sale at Amazon.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/CL-61-Audio-Component-Speakers-System/dp/B00FX9SO74

Or these babies, if properly tuned will blow those Fosgates completely out of the water.

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-RM6-2-Reference-Component-Speaker/dp/B00G4L6V0W

Don't forget to look at Morel. They are pretty much the gold standard of speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Morel-6-5-Component-System/dp/B003F2U79O

I recommend the Kinivo BTC450. Ive had mine for over a year now its works great. Handsfree calling, auto-connect (big plus for me), music controls and siri activation. Also with this one you won't have to charge every day. Its pretty much plug and play.

But if you like that one more which has good reviews and that works for you i would get it.

If you don't own them already, pick up a set of crimpers like these which do a very nice job of fully crimping things like ring terminals.

When you get the terminals, either get the heat-shrink variety, or the bare (non-insulated) and some appropriate heat shrink tubing. It's not necessary to do this, but it dresses the installation up nicely and makes it look like you care about the details.

Below your price range -- Deaden the doors, put some speaker gasket material around the speakers to make a your doors act more like speaker boxes.. you will get more midbass and a fuller sound, most likely slightly louder as well.

This will cost you around $70

~60 - pack of Noico 80 sound deadening material on Amazon

~10 - speaker gasket tape from parts-express

There's just not much you can do for under $200. /u/ckeeler11's suggestion is spot on. If you want to keep costs down, just start with some of that and add more later. I just installed those Morels on my daily, and they're fantastic, really amazing for the money. If you're at all handy I would highly recommend finding a way to mount the tweeters rather than just using the coaxial version

Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being

Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...

Electronics:

• Receiver - $140, has 10 band EQ, full crossover setup, and time alignment capabilities
  
• 5 channel amp - $230 - has crossover settings to allow setup of active front stage
  
  Speakers:
  
  There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
  
  
• 5.25" woofers - $150
  
• 1" tweeters - $150
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• 12" Subwoofer - $160
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• Dash Kit - $13
  
• Wire Harness - $7
  
• Front speaker adapter - $10
  
• 4x8 sheet MDF. screws, glue, etc. from hardware store for building sub enclosuse: $74
  
• Speaker terminal kit for sub box - $6
  
• Amp wiring kit - $60
  
• 16 gauge speaker wire - $20 (need more for active front stage run)
  
• 12 gauge speaker wire - $20 (for your subwoofer)
  
• Sound deadending kit 40 sq ft - $100
  
• Other random install accessories, tools, and little gotcha stuff: $60
  
  Grand total: $1,200

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

They would be compatible, but I think there are better deals out there.

If you are looking to get into car av, I think you will be much happier with this sub (you can get the 10,12, or 15 version. You will want the 2 ohm version though) for $200 and this amp for $130. You will just need to build or buy a box. If you have the means to build a box, you can look at CAF’s free box design (link to design in description)z you might be able to pay a cabinet builder to make one if you don’t have the means yourself. That brings you from $350 budget to $330, you just need a box.

I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?

A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.

Am I better off just getting something like this?

those crimpers work but they are actually for non insulated only and tend to punch through insulation, doesn't look like there is an insulated hole on them. For quick work use my trusty old klein but I also have a ratcheting crimper with a few different die sets, the insulated die is a double crimp and works fantastic. This works almost as well for a lot less $$$(I bought the cheap one when I thought I loaned my palidin then realized it was in another toolbox). I'm usually too lazy to solder stuff under the dash(proof of laziness), but anything outside of the cabin I solder and use glue lined heatshrink to make sure the union is not compromised. When I do use butt splices or crimp caps, I make sure to use the right crimper.

I also consider my test light as a must have, computer AND airbag safe. It make signal chasing much easier using the piercing probe and the headlight is handy. Keep the bandaids handy using it though, I've tested the voltage in my fingers quite a few times.

While the plastic trim tools come in handy, I find something like this very handy when you need a bit more nut behind the prying, although I haven't't used the window crank clip remover in a LONG time lol.

Well here's the plan.. plan to just have front speakers atm, since I'm told rear aren't necessary with a subwoofer. Plan to get these speakers powered by this powerpack. I drive a 99 camry sedan, but really don't want to have to replace the alternator from all of this.. maybe I should find a less powerful subwoofer or just go with the 500w RMS? All I want is some good clean bass for some electronic toons. Also, was planning on getting a ported box

Haha, here's the box link. I'll check out that other sub and edit this in a second.

Edit: I'll think on choosing between these two or the 8" linked above until Saturday when I get my paycheck and will have enough for all of this to be ordered at once. Honestly I just don't know enough to come to a conclusion, I guess I'll compare the frequency and such specs? Reviews for both are great and I know the JBL brand (never owned, just recognize), which I've heard is important in car audio (the brand).

maybe add a powerpack and call it a day ? easy to install / remove(most of the time ) once you sell the car .clarion has one for around 90$ and its 50x4 rms at 4 ohms class d . i'm talking about something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=pd_cp_e_0

as for speakers infinty,jbl both have some nice stuff that will be fine on stock american bass has a decent set too and can be had pretty cheap .i

I started with the Sync 2 system in my 2016 Explorer and noticed the clipping as well. It drove me crazy along with sync 2/MFT. I too had most of my climate involved with the HU and sought out possible solutions. I ended up installing a sync 3 system from a newer parted ford along with This. I also added a small sub, but would still have been possible without the sub. After install, absolutely 0 clipping! It changed everything and sounds fantastic for pretty much a stock setup!

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Alright then for 6.5 inch coaxials i always recommend the infonitt reference series . For your rear deck its more than likely 6x9's genera rule of thumb is that if your trying o make a round soundwave with a oval your gunna have a bad time so dont blow a crap ton of mony on the rear dec just buy somethi g decent like some pioneer or kenwoods. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B43LKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076245&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=clarion+4+channel+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41J9AFkldUL&ref=plSrch i like tbis little guy decent power tiny form factor . http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MRYHNPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076293&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pioneer+deh+x6700bt&dpPl=1&dpID=41ksZ8t7eQL&ref=plSrch right here ive always been a fan of pioneer heasunits u get decent bang for your buck. http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS212_p_221.html soundqubed is my favorite brand subs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T3VMUTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076405&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hifonics+brutus+1100+watt+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=31TauDbdOSL&ref=plSrch another bang for your buck product. And for the sub box learn to carpentry

A bandpass/ported box will give you more rumble and boom while a sealed box will give you a more clean knock. After owning a bandpass box for two years, switching over to sealed was a great choice. Recently bought this sealed box and couldn't be happier.

​

BBox apparently makes a good bandpass box as well, however can't say I've tried.

Sub

Amp

Box

Wiring

Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

Kenwood KAC-5001PS normal power

Alpine MRX-M55 more power

Pioneer GM-D9601 max power

They will all work, but I would personally recommend the Alpine, unless you plan to buy another one of those Pioneer subs in the future. In which case you should get the Pioneer amp I listed. Be sure to wire your sub like this

Budget: Noico
Best: SDS
Second link is full of great info on how to properly sound deaden.

Here are the parts I'm considering so far

2 sets of these for all 4 doors

Alpine SPS-610C 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Type-S Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004THAWHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqsnyb7A57SH7


These 6x9 for rear deck

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WusnybVYBR8YD



This for getting signal to amp. Not sure if complete overkill for my goal setup.

AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bwsnyb2TGNBDW



And this subwoofer. I might go with 2 of them when I add them to my car.

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kysnybS8CXRZS

Like stated above I have no idea on the amplifier. I would like to have it power my speakers and subwoofer, so I'm guessing a multi channel would be better? In the end i would like to have a woofer and tweeter per door, 2 rear deck 6x9, and a subwoofer or 2. Please let me know if anything needs to change. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.

The easiest and cheapest route would be to buy this rockford fosgate loaded enclosure and just wire it into the rear speakers.

Although, this may not be much an improvement on the premium system. So if you're craving a little more oomph, you would have to go this route:

Get an amp with high level inputs like this precision power. Wire it with a nice 4 awg amp kit and splice the high level to the rear speakers. After you have the amp installed, the possibilities for subs are pretty much endless. You could run something like this SA 12 and either make a box for it or put it in this prefab.

Amp: $120

Amp Kit: $30

Sub: $200

Box: $45
____
total: $495

After shipping and taxes it all might be over 500, but this would definitely scratch your itch for bass.

You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.

Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.

Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.

>neither Visions nor Geek Squad (best buy) know how to install an aux input.

Either you asked the wrong questions or didn't listen to them correctly. You can either add something like the IS32 but at that point you're better off just getting a new radio like this one.

About 30 square feet of CLD (constrained layer dampener) is required for your whole car. You don't need much. ~25-30% coverage will be fine.


Dynamat's alright, but also check out the stuff from SoundDeadenerShowdown or Second Skin


The budget option has traditionally been Noico


Ideally, you'll also want to apply some Mass Loaded Vinyl to the doors and floor, as well as some Closed Cell Foam.

Ok, I think I'm reading it right..

Would this Be a good ported box, as far as dimensions go?

Or would it be better to get a vented box?

Its engine noise, a lot of low pitched noise. Road noise is not too much of an issue.

And I was under the impression that this is basically MLV, and thats why I was combining it with the foam. However now I see that is simply a base layer. The interior of my car is small and easily removable so I think I will just start with that and my current padding, and see how it goes from there.

I have used the product before and the lack of smell and adhesion time is superb. It also has good weight to it, so I feel confident using it.

I'll answer most of your questions. The system you are building is actually made to be loud not SQ.

Crutchfield doesn't have your car listed yet, so I won't recommend a speaker unless you are into modifying your door to make them fit. Out of the two speakers you are looking at I would go with the GTO629 just because of the tweeter and the higher sensitivity for the same power.

It will be expensive and loud if you replace all four doors, which I don't recommend. You can get one set of the GTO629 for the front then the 6520 for the rear.

I use this Noico product on my doors and rear and I think it works fine for budget installs. You'll have plenty leftover for the trunk and trunk lid especially if you have a subwoofer back there.

Depending on the kind of music you listen to the speakers alone might be enough, but people really like bass in their cars so I would recommend a subwoofer. Those speakers will not be able to produce sub bass, so you'll be missing out. I use this Pioneer sub and it does a good job of handling sub bass while laying flat and you can put stuff on top of it.

Tie it all together with this NVX amp and you'll be set.

The sub woofer amp is actually a stock amp for the car and I don't think it has adjustable gain. Same with the amp I purchased to run the mid ranges. It's small and I don't believe it has adjustable gain either.

Edit: the amp I purchased is this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B43LKV0

this is one of those times where i would recommend one of those small amps... like the alpine powerpack or the clarion xc1410 ... ~$100ish

normally i say do the head unit.. since you dont want to change out the factory unit.. extra power is going to help you out, and the amp is tiny enough to stick anywhere. it should really wake up stock speakers.

No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/

I vote for Polk db series, components or coax speakers. The older db models are being replaced with newer versions, so you can get great deals on them right now.

Disclosure: I have a set of the 6.5" Polk db 6501 components and they really perform well.

Somebody linked you a alpine amp, which would work perfectly fine, this is just over your budget but a love the build quality of Rockford Fosgate much better. Dislike their subs but their amps are quality. I really dislike alpine subs, but their amps are decent as well if your running low power.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463969240&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+250

use this for the crimp on connectors

Ratcheting crimpers technically work better, but I don't like them for the red/blue/yellow multi gauge connectors, as they crimp to a specific size, and if your wire gauge doesn't match that size, you get a bad crimp.

The Klein tool I linked above lets you get a solid crimp regardless of your wire gauge, and has a long handle to give you good mechanical advantage so you don't have to squeeze the crap out of the tool to get that good crimp. In fact, it is easily possible to over crimp, so watch out for that.

Kenwood mono amp

Skar VD12

Box

Amp Kit

$200 can be done, 350w amp for a 500w sub is fine if you set the gains correctly. An oxygen free copper amp kit for a few dollars more is a good investment... but this one will work.

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

I wouldn't even buy a kenwood amp, but if I were in your position, and wanted better sound without breaking the bank, here's what I'd do.

4 of these($80/pair) on this amp($149). I'm no expert though, but that'd run you about $310, and I've heard good things about Polks DB series.

I didn’t have any luck finding a separate Hertz mid to match your tweeters but you could always get the Hertz DSK 165.3 component set that matches those tweeters and sell the two sets of coaxials.

If you’re feeling adventurous you could get a completely separate mid that isn’t a Hertz brand but there’s a lot of options out there and that could be a difficult choice to make if you’re not sure how they will pair with the tweeters. On the plus side you can tweak the crossover points a little to see if different LP/HP crossovers work better.

budget deadener . When applying deadener make sure you seal the door as much as possible to make it more of an enclosure for the 6.5 to resonate.

and a much better budget 10" sub for the money. Your box will work just fine with this. As for your headunit... I can't help you.

Pulling out the speaker yourself might be the easiest way to find out what speakers you have.

If this is something you're interested in you will need:

• 
  A pair of crimpers, I suggest Klein crimpers.
  
  
• Butt connectors. You'll probably need 10-12 gauge (yellow) butt connectors.
  
  You'll need to pull the sub out as far as you can, then snip the wires (leave 5-6" of wire coming off of the subwoofer), check the model number, then use the butt connectors to re-attach the wires.
  
  

I found something pretty inexpensive like this? BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2mpcvb0C9ZYR2

I bought MLV from Amazon with free shipping. Used other materials from SDS and used his method. Bought TMS MLV. No issues with smell. It was easy enough to work with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JHE1P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.

MLV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JHE1P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CCF: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URV8MFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CLD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used various CLD's in the past (you can see some Dynamat Extreme on my front door). I figured the Noico would work well and it seems to have done well so far.

I did see a review on Amazon about the CCF glue delaminating when applied directly to the MLV, so I elected to use it on the door panel directly to keep the glue away from the MLV.

This is gonna be the best decent setup you can buy.

• Amp
  
  
• [Wiring Kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B005IY3BI6)
  
  
• [Subs] (http://www.parts-express.com/grs-12sw-4-12-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-484)
  
  Which will still leave you with about $140 for a custom built box.
  
  There's a couple good things about this setup.The amp is made by Alpine. It will do rated power and will last awhile. And the subs are actually built somewhat well, considering the price.
  
  This setup will sound better and hit much lower than those terminators, as long as you get the right box for them. 4-5 ft^3 and tuned to 30 hz. There is a reason half your budget is going towards a proper enclosure. The box will make or break your whole system. There's many people online that will design a box for you, if you're willing to build it yourself. If not, a local shop may do it, but expect to be paying around 200 bucks.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

This is a somewhat subjective question, so I will give my opinion.

Hear it yes... feel it... meh not really. Don't have too high of expectations.

If your sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil this amp would be a good choice for optimal performance: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX8U?keywords=rockford%20fosgate%20250&qid=1452789936&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

This little beauty. It’s more expensive than other line out converters, but totally worth it.

Thank you, so i used that to find a premade box that i may just buy two of. Would this work? Seems like the size sort of matches up.

I bought and installed the 10" version of this model last week in my Sonata with Kenwood DMX905S. the sub didn't come with any cables, other than the harness to connect to the sub. I ordered this kit and used rca output from the head unit. the hardest part for me was to route power wire from battery to trunk through the firewall. overall I'm very happy with the overall volume and quality of bass.

I used this Kinivo Bluetooth Car Kit for the last year and it definitely served my purpose. You can route and hide wires to get a very clean look without spending too much money.

Have you read the wirecutter's guide on bluetooth receivers? Also this unit on amazon has a ton of good reviews.

What you want to look for is a single din head unit.

Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9

Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness

Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1

And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit

HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K


Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.

I bought this one on Amazon based on the reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091UW7F6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty highly rated. I'll have it installed in my truck this weekend.

Would it be better to run a higher amp so it wont stress out as much? I'm thinking of going for the Pioneer or the Kenwood. Buying it tonight so I can finally get this set up going.

Speaker Wire Colors:

Front Left: +/- Tan/Grey

Front Right: +/- Light Green/Dark Green

Rear Left: +/- Brown/Yellow

Rear Right: +/- Dark Blue/Light Blue

Use this to reroute the wires from the amp, then back to the head unit. The speaker wires will be in a twisted pair on the output side of the amp, Easiest way is to test the wires by tapping the positive and negative wires on a 9Volt battery to see if you get a response. If you get a response, you have the right wires. (ask if you are unsure of how to do this.
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGW9920-Conductor-Speedwire-Black/dp/B002ODEZ1G

Use this to connect the wires the easiest way:
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CC2218-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B005HQ4T6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138077&sr=8-1&keywords=crimp+caps

Using this tool:(or something similar)
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138134&sr=8-24&keywords=crimp+tool

I bought this kit and it works great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RXC4D-Digital-Capacitor-Voltage/dp/B019Z3RISY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Farad%2BCar%2BCapacitor&qid=1555656720&s=electronics&sr=1-1&th=1

​

and this wire kit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=amp%2Bwire%2Bkit&qid=1555657108&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1

​

Mine came with 2 audio cables but it's the same kit.

The problem being is I got my subs as a handmedown I believe they are the KFC-W12PS that are 1000 watt peak and 4 ohm, but honestly all that doesnt mean to much to me. I was looking at

[http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-5001PS-1000-Watt-Class-Amplifier/dp/B00B8B0Q9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410536088&sr=8-1&keywords=1000+watt+mono+amp]


Would it be too much for the speakers?

I am installing a pioneer double din in my 2003 jetta with monsoon audio (steering wheel controls) on wednesday and I am going to use this which will allow me to use the monsoon amp with the pioneer deck and keep steering wheel controls.

Edit: I used to have the non-bluetooth version of the stereo you linked to and I would recommend it.

this would be better for the money . i would spend more and the lc2i

I've got one of these (similar situation, jumped ship to Android about 4 months ago), and it's quite good.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397624663&sr=8-3&keywords=kinivo+bluetooth+adapter

Plugs right into the Aux jack, and draws power from the cigarette lighter.

>JL 500/1

That amp accepts 8V max speaker level. Pretty friggin low, even without a factory subwoofer amp output. An $89 Pioneer head unit can output more than that. I'm not kidding.

Use an LC2i

So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended


[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea



[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95

Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95


And

12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea

JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498

Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.

I'd honestly stick with a JL amp.
Here's a 1000w JL amp for <$250

JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LMCZMY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TjsEub1YS5CB1

I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.

Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65

Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64

Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88

These work pretty well. You still need to select an FM channel to use it on but when you power up the unit it cuts the actual radio signal. Its as clear as a direct AUX input.

I also appreciate your advice about the quality.

might go with http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_15?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1421119580&sr=1-15&keywords=car+cd+player
instead.

Well this guy looks like a winner. As far as these go, I personally solder all wire to wire connections. People call me old school and hard headed for doing it, but a soldered connection has yet to let me down in over 10 years. That said I know plenty of people who use those quick connectors and have no trouble at all, I'm sure they will do the job just fine for you. Are you planning on penetrating your firewall on the passenger side? YOu may find that your HVAC Blower motor can complicate that quite a bit.

[This](BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit – A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VwCBCb6S7WHR4) might be the exact kit I used

[I have two of these, and they both work flawlessly. They even have a pass-thru USB charger so they don't steal your 12V outlet. For $35 you can't go wrong.](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ctBcvb16A2A08
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ctBcvb16A2A08)

I've got one of these little Kinivo Bluetooth adapters in my Camaro that just uses the Aux port, and it's been absolutely flawless for me.

I've actually had three of the Kinivos, in three different vehicles - they're dirt cheap and all three have worked perfectly...far more than I can say about the garbage Bluetooth connectivity on my 2016 Mazda's factory infotainment system..!

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE

/thread

lol. Most shops will charge $75-100 to install it. Not difficult to do yourself but can be time consuming.

Bestbuy has it at their store for $140 with the install included!

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

This is the amp I ordered and this is the sub. Since I first made this post, I was able to switch my order to get the 4Ω DVC version of the same sub. Now both will be running at 250W RMS, so it should all work out fine.

This amp is 259 and will power it well I have one pushing my 10" jl w7. http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY

Exactly no need to redo any wiring. and sub would be a great combo and relatively the same price as the powered sub but you have room to upgrade and it will be miles ahead in power and quality over the powered

I'm hoping to beat the subs down to about $150-160. The RF amp is sold, but this Lightning Audio amp isn't. Reference page for that amp, 1200 watt, 4 channel. Should be plenty to handle those subs. Still looking at the same Pioneer head unit at this point tho, but now brand new and slightly cheaper.

I used this Noico kit with nice results. Cheaper than dynamat but essentially the same product. You'll need at least 20 sq ft if you're doing all four doors...

This is well more than enough amp for the speaker you want to push.

Here Is a lower priced option that falls smack in them middle of the power suggested by JL.

Will I need to do the wiring myself? I was under the impression the harness would connect the systems without anything like that.

I wouldn't recommend Boss products at all, I currently have a Pioneer FH-X700BT (http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6) and it's currently on sale on Amazon for cheaper than your price range.

Don't screw with the airbags. I used an "add-a-fuse" on my ACC circuit.

Will this work ?

http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377196707&sr=8-1&keywords=8+ga+amp+kit

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Performance-Interconnect/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG0BFVWRYVJPPEVND6FA

even this would work http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12S-12-Inch-Hatchback-Enclosures/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Non-mobile:

• this
  
• these
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1536015841&sr=1-6&keywords=car+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Here you go. I think it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-BV9757B-Double-DIN-Motorized-Touchscreen/dp/B00HZA6E6W

And here are the cheapo amps I think im gonna get.
https://www.amazon.com/EV4-400-EVOLUTION-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLEE4/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487419851&sr=1-12&keywords=4+channel+amp

and

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487446228&sr=1-2&keywords=monoblock+amp&refinements=p_36%3A-5500

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3RK5WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609733&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=american+bass+xo+12&dpPl=1&dpID=51WqzRc0KdL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I3LSH2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609646&sr=8-35&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kicker+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51u2wp-tqVL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609861&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch

These and pick a box that works for your space..

What about this setup?

amp with DSP

speakers 1

speakers 2

TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 4' X 10' 40 Square Feet 1 Lb MLV Acoustic Barrier

$120 for 40ft^2

https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Soundproofing-Barrier-Highest-Quality/dp/B008JHE1P6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MLV&qid=1563051341&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Should I just go to a double din? I was thinking about this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372826076&sr=1-1&keywords=fh-x700bt

Looking at the parrot asteroid, those are a bit pricey. I was thinking something more along the lines of this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Any thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-5001PS-1000-Watt-Class-Amplifier/dp/B00B8B0Q9A

Yup

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24975_Precision-Power-PPI-S850.1D.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/189-1619665-3315235?pi=SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EVZDW00?pc_redir=1405013338&robot_redir=1

How does it perform compared to Noico?

Here are a list of prices of the Sundown SA 12 for OP

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-12-750w-sa-series.html $214

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Z66Dyb2V7NXJB $214


http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9260-sa-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-dual-4-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.html $214


http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-12-600w-sa-series/ $174 Subs ordered from here may have a defect. This is Sundown bad stock store. Everything on this site will work fine but may have scuffs etc


http://www.down4soundshop.com/sa-series-12/ $214

I have the Infinity Reference 6030cs up front and the non coaxial version in the rear with about 60 watts going to each. They sound good much better than the Kenwoods they replaced but not nearly as good as my Infinity Kappas in my old car. The tweeters can be harsh at loud volumes. Bass could be better.

I'm not super happy with them but not disappointed either.

Running a little amp like this to them will make a big difference in sound. Head unit power will always be lacking.

>PAC lP7-2

Also, I read on the max forum people were saying this LOC made a huge difference over a lower quality one..

​

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=LOC&qid=1563194668&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Not sure how accurate that is but it's a lot more expensive ($80 vs $20)..

I'm going to be doing some poking around tonight and see what I can come up with as my final solution. You'll probably see some more comments from me in your inbox later. :)

Also, is there any reason not to use these types of connectors when I splice that speaker wire in? Or do you have a better recommendation?

And I did find the fuse on the fusebox which appears to already be wired for "Subwoofer" from the factory. It's a 20 and I tested it last night and it is hot when the key is on, and not when the key is off. I was seriosuly considering just getting something like this and wiring the remote line in there. It seems like that would be the easiest option. I'm planning on probably mounting this under the passenger seat and running the power and remote lines up that passenger side...so I'll be right there at the fusebox anyways.

Sorry to ask so many questions, I just really don't want to fuck this up, and I want it done right. I'm sure I could find a way to make it work if I fucked with it enough, but I'd rather acknowledge my ignorance and seek help first BEFORE I'm in trouble instead of after. I'm leaving this all in the public comments (instead of PMs) so I can at least give you some karma...and maybe someone else with similar questions might be able to learn from my ignorance.

2007 honda accord with touch screen navigation. Maybe FM Adapter is the wrong term. FM Modulator maybe? It isn't like the ones that broadcast your input over a certain frequency. When I put my stereo on a specific channel it somehow makes a physical connection to this after market thing. Or at least that's how the guy explained it to me. So theoretically it's a pure aux line.

I think this(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004613FCE) is basically the same thing, except mine doesn't have a usb port.

Sub amp? Hook the Pac up to the rear speaker wires and run your remote line to the fuse bloch with an add-a-fuse. Getting the power cable through the firewall can be a pain. You can run it under the car if you are very cautious with routing and protection. Be sure to read about gains and crossovers.

I know the amp isn't very good but I am going to deal with it. I just need to know what kind of wiring I need to hook it up to two subs and my receiver.

I was thinking this wiring kit may be able to work but I am unsure. http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=pd_cp_e_2

http://m.imgur.com/2gMsiJZ

http://m.imgur.com/fryzTWz