(Part 2) Top products from r/Cartalk

If you get 2 to 3 full turns (360 degrees * 2 to 3) before you hit resistance, you probably didn't crossthread them, you probably hit some crud in the threads.

http://amzn.com/B0009OMYCO is a handy tool to clean up the spark plug threads before you thread the plug in, but you have to be very careful not to cross thread that tool. Also, have the end covered in grease when you use it, to capture all the crud that you get out of the threads. The best way to use it is to turn it backwards (lefty loosey) until it clicks straight, then start turning it in. That works for both the spark plugs and the thread chaser.

1. use brake cleaner not Carb spray. Carb spray leaves a film. Brake cleaner does not and is sometimes less destructive on rubber brake parts
   
   
2. yes its nessasary to clean new rotors
   
   
3. it removes not only the oily protective film from the friction surface but removes the fine metal.dust that may still be on them from manufacturing process. These both will contaminate pads, can cause noises and effect brake effectiveness.
   
   I like to spray them liberally flooding the surface then wipe with a disposable rag. Just as I'd prepping for paint.
   
   
4. brake grease nothing else. Keep it to a minimal film on the pad anchor points that slide on the bracket, the caliper sliders, and optionally the contact spots of the backside of the pads if they so not have rubber like shims. (Points between the piston or caliper itself and metal brake pad backing)
   
   number the next one)
   
   While changing the fluid Is a good idea. I would suggest not getting into it as a first brake job kind of thing. You will add the chances.of having a frozen or broken bleeder. Also you could get air into the system. While these are not end of the world events it may be a can of worms you don't want to get into. Plus its not really something that is much easier to do while your changing the pads. It could be done later with out a ton more effort.
   
   The c clamp would be used to push the piston back in the bore to.make room for the new thicker pads and rotors. Disk brakes unlike drum brakes don't have return springs they just squeeze and then don't squeeze. They actually drag ever so slightly most the time. You can sometimes hear them while wheels are off ground and you spin the wheel.
   
   A safer way is to use a tool made for pushing the piston back in. You don't need a fancy one that will turn in the piston unless your working on rears that have the parking brake integrated with the caliper.
   Lisle 24400 Disc Brake Pad Spreader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LLiozbAWG3WFJ
   
   Hope this helps. sorry can't watch video at the moment.
   
   
   

(OP's post is going to get removed whenever one of the mods shows up, since /r/CarTalk is not Car Talk, but just for specific repair questions. Before that happens, does anyone know of a subreddit with an attitude more in keeping with the Car Talk namesake?)

OP: Some folks have suggested tire inflating foam. I carry a plug kit and a cheap battery-driven compressor like this. You can find a cheaper alternative pretty easily online. Keeping the compressor around reminds me to top off my wheels regularly, whereas foam can only be used in emergencies.

I also keep a couple of water bottles, a sleeping bag, and a pair of those "hot hands" things in my trunk in case of getting stranded, although that's probably not very necessary in your area.

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614

This is the best price/quality ratio product I've ever used. Pretty easy to install. Just plugs into the back the radio and the antenna plugs into it. Then, you just wire it to 12v and ground. I've used three or four of them and I couldn't recommend it more.

Check to make sure you have the spare tire, and that it's inflated properly, there should be a jack and a tire iron(wrench?) as well.

I also suggest the following:

If you have a smartphone: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B7YXOM/ (Lets you read codes off any OBDII car. Fun for friends and family too.) Keep in glovebox.

A cigarette outlet powered tire inflator: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ENQRD2/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZBWKAU/ (I have the first one and it works as advertised). Keep in trunk.

Also I don't know how the 2012 system works for music and navigation, but integration with your smartphone is very nice for music and nav.

(purely cosmetic and expensive.) Also look up vinyl wrapping if you're bored. Protects your paint job while you're at it :P

For help purposes this is the dash:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001JT0ALU/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item

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This is the stereo:

https://www.amazon.ca/ATOTO-Double-Android-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B07B7JKZBM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=atoto+a6&qid=1550801397&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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Basically should fit fine right? Will this stereo improve my overall sound?

I just looked up this tool online and it looks like a thing that holds the battery peg downward and pulls upward on the terminal connector easily, looks like its what im wanting since the battery peg is getting ripped out when I just use a screwdriver to pry it. is this the right tool? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

I have a 2008 BMW 335i. It has the N54 twin turbo 3.0L engine. I bought the car with 51k miles almost 5 years ago. It now has around 88k. Here's a rough list of what I've done so far:

• spark plugs, easy diy
  
• water pump and thermostat, relatively easy DIY if you have small hands. Parts were ~$400 or something like that.
  
• clutch delay valve delete, ~$20 or $30 for the part; relatively easy diy
  
• rear brakes; you'll need a hand impact driver to get the rotor set screw off
  
• front control arms; you'll need an assortment of 20mm+ sockets and wrenches, as well as a breaker bar, and a torque wrench capable of 122 lb-ft; this one was a pain in the cunning linguals, primarily due to the fact that the car has to be at ride height before torquing down the frame bolts. This means that you need to alternate between jack stands and ramps.
  
• valve cover gasket; a bit of a pita. The valve cover is plastic, so it's generally recommended to replace along with the gasket. ~$300 and change. Took most of a weekend, but I took my time.
  
• carbon cleaning; had to buy a media blasting kit for this. I already had a harbor freight 21 gallon compressor. It has to refill between cylinders, so ~6 or 7 times per walnut blasting session.
  
• oil filter housing gasket; got about half-way through with this today, actually
  
  In general, I will say that I've managed to DIY just about everything on this car, with the exception of the air conditioner evaporator. That I had done at my local A/C shop, but I've since seen someone on the e90 forums do it themselves.
  
  I have had to buy quite a few tools and accessories along the way: a battery trickle-charger for the water pump bleed process, media blaster for the carbon cleaning, torx and e-torx bits/sockets, steering hub spreader for shocks (forgot this in the list above), impact hammer thing for brake rotors, extended low-profile jack, and so on and so on.
  
  The most frustrating thing though was getting the BMW software to work. It's necessary for registering a new battery (so that it charges properly), or for installing new fuel injectors (they have individual flow rates and tolerances).
  
  OH. I almost forgot. The waste gates on my turbos are rattling, and I'm out of warranty, so I'm looking at ~$1500-$2000 for new turbos some time this year. After that, it'll be new front wheel bearings. As soon as things stop breaking, I'll maybe have some time for upgrades and/or tune. =)
  
  I should add, that the only reason I am even willing to do this stuff is because my wife and I commute to work together, so my car can be in pieces for weeks at a time if it needs to. Were that to change, I'd probably have to ditch this car for something more reliable.
  
  Edit: After I finish all of the above, I'm going to polish and seal my headlights. I pretty much have to do this, since I'm sure as shit not going to pay $1k per light. >8|
  
  
  I kind of got off topic. You asked about the feasibility of maintaining a car like this on your own. It's definitely possible, but it helps to know what you can expect down the road.

> As an aside, just bite the bullet and drill those damn screws out.

If the heads haven't been ruined yet, on a 2010 they should come out pretty easily with an impact screwdriver, which you can sometimes rent from auto parts stores.

The hollow sound definitely makes me think there's either a dented dust shield or a piece of debris stuck between the shield and rotor. However, I had a grinding noise sort of like this once that turned out to be one of the pad clips having slightly cracked and warped such that it could rub the rotor under braking.

So I'm looking at the DC820B and the DCF889B because I have 2 batteries that fit. 2 concerns, will it be powerful enough for work? I think the DCF889B will be. Secondly, I have only the 1.5A batteries, will I even have enough charge to remove 4 wheels?

or, just ride it out. one of these is a good idea to have around anyway (not sure what your winters are like). one day, you'll need it. and when you do, its time for a new battery.

Just pick up a gator grip socket.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8

That's what I use for scenarios like yours. They have them at Sears and places like that that sell tools.

Try Aero Kroil instead of PB Blaster, or try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. A long, six-point box end wrench will work well to unscrew the sensor. Then use one of these to clean up the threads in the HO2S bung.

You can buy oil filter wrenches that look like this or this. Both work really well and most auto parts stores or Harbor Freight carry them. A large pair of channel locks work as well. The filter is already fucked, so don't be afraid to squeeze it into an oval shape to get a good bite on it.

The coolant line looks like a pre-heater for the intake manifold, where it runs coolant through the intake to make it heat up faster so that the engine can lean out (fuel injection doesn't have a choke, but does essentially the same thing when the engine is cold and that is richen the fuel mixture). Again, a foot or so of 3/8 or whatever size heater hose is only a few dollars at an auto parts store.

Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.

At 21 seconds, middle of the frame just above the tire, see that part moving? Hit it with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 I would even try wd40, or even plain water. Apply lubrication and listen for a change in the sound.

That sound is rubber squeaking. Any place that moves and has rubber is a canditate for that noise. Spray all the things.

This will find your problem and solve it short term. Maybe once every few months lube it again. Replace the part once you find it is the long term solution.

What you want to do is use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614

But personally I would just get a new head unit with aux built in.

You can try a lugnut removal tool like this:

http://amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK?sa-no-redirect=1

Found these, at least one size should fit the external diameter of the stem. I'll replace that, fill up the master cylinder, check it, bleed the brakes, and let you guys know how it all went.

Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?

For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:

powder graphite

That should work but there will be bolts that need more torque because of rust or someone over tightening.

I would get the Milwaukee but also look into getting one of these.

http://m.harborfreight.com/12-in-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html

I've had one for a year now and it rocks. It's $79 when its on sale. If you want something electric then this one is awesome too.

DEWALT Bare-Tool DC820B 1/2-Inch 18-Volt Cordless Impact Wrench (Tool Only, No Battery) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VWK5QO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xYVAwbZW8410R

It's very compact and goes up to around 100ft/lbs. I've taken lug nuts off with it (but I've also had cars that it didn't take them off because they were over torqued).

I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Those focus dashes weren't just a radio unit like you think of it, the dash kit was that whole silver plastic piece because Ford dashes are dumb.

Idk why they spent so much on the wiring, maybe there's something special about it.

You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).

OEM's use dry silicone spray.

https://www.amazon.com/MWUR9-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-12-Inch-Filter-Pliers/dp/B000NPR33O

Here. Note that this is power, but not heated. You could also check a junkyard.

Ya. For instance here is a power non heated mirror for your car.

There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.

These might work for you. They basically have threads which cut into the outside of the nut to remove it.

If they don't work, you can always drill out the stud. It sucks, and takes forever, but it works without damaging your wheel.

I suggest a block heater like this.

Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SQU9K/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1343822201&sr=8-2

You want that tool. Nice and cheap but it will spread you caliper out. A prying tool can be a flat head screw driver. Sometimes the caliper us reluctant and needs prying. Only use a hammer on parts that you already have a replacement for.

I had a similar problem and this saved the day for me: http://www.amazon.com/Pops-dent-Dent-Repair-Popper/dp/B0015D88U0

It is cheap and easy to try, so you don't have much to loose.

First thing I would try is getting one of these universal socket dealies and seeing if it will remove that broken socket piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

Thanks so much for your reply. I do have another key and fob set. I'll just swap it with that one and test if it makes a difference. As for the alarm, I did not install anything in the car after it was purchased so I'm not sure if it comes with a factory installed alarm. I do notice that when the car is locked, there's a tiny led light blinking next to the windshield but I'm not sure if that means the car has an alarm system installed. Any easy way to verify this? As for when did it start, I would say about a week ago. So far it's happened twice and it doesn't happen everyday, but I'm trying to anticipate in case it's a battery issue. If that's the case, I'd rather replace it now than have the car leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. In the meantime, I purchased this, just in case. Nothing else is acting strange.

That's a broken vacuum fitting. The vacuum line diagram for that motor shows the Evap. Canister Purge Valve in that location, and the pictures match.

Since the part that's broken is the fitting on the solenoid, you'll have to replace it. It looks like there's just one screw holding it on; that should be an easy fix.

[EDIT] I just saw that you broke off both of the lines going into that part. Your local auto parts store will have the right diameter line to replace what you need to there. Just bring it in with you and they'll be able to match it.

A quick short term solution would be to cap off the broken vacuum lines. Your fuel economy will suffer, but you'll regain engine performance.