[edit2] Wow, thanks for the gold, stranger! First time I got a comment gilded :-)

___

Ok, lots of questions, I'll try to hit them all. (edit: didn't realize how long this was going to be, sorry!! TL;DR: accessories are fine, but don't invest in that instrument itself because it has no resale value and if/when you upgrade, it will have good "parts" on it already).

Strings - your new strings (linked) look better than the stock ones. Not good. But a bit less bad. If you were thinking of upgrading, I would say don't get a full set. Just replace the A/D (or even just the A) and see how it compares. They should be about $20 each for the A/D strings. Those are the spares I carry in my case (I play Larsen, but don't want $50 spares, especially if someone else asks for one!). Jargar are kinda harsh, but in a good way - they are loud, easy to project, and cut through the mix of the orchestra very well. Easier to be heard, that kind of harsh. On the downside, they require more work of you to not squeak. The cheaper the strings, the easier they squeak, and crunch, and eventually go dead if you apply enough pressure (like crunching that never turns into tone?) but maybe that's not happening to you if you don't have good rosin. So onto point 2!

Rosin. Get this stuff it's superb. I used to pay 2-3x that price, I'm so thrilled it's become readily available. I'm not sure it's quite as good as it was in the 90s, but after experimenting with about a dozen brands (including synthetic, because I'm allergic to pine), this is the one I come back to. You'd think it doesn't much matter, and I used to think that too. Until I did the experiment and found that rosin brand/composition does make a difference. I don't know how much you can hear it, but you can DEFINITELY feel it! Which makes playing easier/harder, and the audience can always hear you working hard. They want to hear you make it look easy, right? Right. Get the Hill Light (violin/viola/cello). Smooth as butter, easy as pie, and creamy like a... something french dessert, I don't know... As for the old rosin, use a dry cloth and just gently wipe and wipe and wipe. Don't use alcohol. it will dry out the hair. Also, you can put new rosin even if the hair isn't 100% clean. It mixes right in, no problems. Wipe off some old, then put on too much of the new Hill rosin. It will make some dust, then in a week put on too much again. Then it should be good to apply once or twice a week from there (depending on how much you play).

Tailpiece is 100% you're done. End game quality right there. Some prefer wood, but whatever. I think I have one of those on one of my cellos. Only problem is you can't fit gut strings because they're thicker and have knots instead of balls at the end :-) The reason it's easier to tune is not the tailpiece, though, it's the fine tuners. Either way, you're sorted. Mazel tov.

Bow - holy cow, that looks legit for the price! Depends on the quality of the hair, though... I pay about that for just the hair every couple years on my carbon fiber bow (CodaBow Classic, I think they're not as expensive as they used to be, mine was top of the line 15-20 years ago and I paid like $1500 for it? Carbon Fiber was not as common so much more expensive in every product... now you can get CF sunglasses for $20 haha). Hard to tell if your struggles might be from the bow hair (stick is probably fine) or the rosin. Easier/cheaper to change the rosin first, though!

For the buildup on the strings, I'd say replace the strings (haha!) - no, but really, take a clean handkerchief and give them a rough hand-wiping at least once a week (some do it every time they play, but not me, I'm lazy!). Every now and then (once a year for me?) I'll put a little bit of rubbing alcohol on the cloth and carefully wipe the rosin-y parts of the strings. If you get alcohol on the cello, it will dissolve the varnish. That's bad. If you get it on the fingerboard, you might find out your fingerboard is painted black and not real ebony... etc. Just be careful. Also, when you clean the strings, take a few seconds to clean the entire length from nut to bridge, because oils from your skin build up in between the wrappings on the strings and make them heavier (so they don't want to vibrate as freely). This extends the life of my strings from 1 year to like 5 years. (again, I'm lazy. Sometimes I don't change for 10 years... but I like a dull/warm sound anyway).

LASTLY

On to the cello itself... Where to begin... The tuning pegs can be replaced, and the peg box can be reamed to better fit the friction pegs (or geared pegs if you want to go crazy). People used friction pegs for hundreds of years so don't moan too loudly. As for the tone, I think the thickness of the finish/varnish make a big difference, the amount of glue (and type) in the seams makes a difference, and the thickness of the wood. The thinner it is, the easier it vibrates. the heavier it is, the harder it is to get a full sweet sound. That also has some to do with the quality of the bridge (which needs to be carved by a luthier, you can't just get a Fournier bridge from Amazon and stick it on there... Expect to pay $75-250 for a bridge out the door from a pro, depending on the quality of the blank. He will also set it up for you). Don't put a fancy bridge on a junk cello tho. It will always be heavy. And it feels heavy when you play. Even in just the left hand. The neck is chunky like a baseball bat (so it won't break?) and the fingerboard might not be perfectly planed, the action can be too high (bridge height can help this, but the nut can also be a problem - and at that point, you do get buzz sometimes if the fingerboard isn't perfectly flat). The fingerboard can be thick/heavy and not vibrate easily - which means it absorbs vibration from the strings, and deadens your sound. Mostly, it's the playability and feel - not like sharp frets, more like the smoothness of the neck like a Strat with nitro finish or matte vs full gloss poly, right? People sand down the neck to get a "nicer" smoother playing? Same thing. It will also feel different in your knees (like a nicer guitar can feel better in your lap? Maybe a $3k American Strat doesn't feel any better than a $500 mexican, but it might feel a LOT better than a $50 knock-off, you know?)

I wouldn't put much more into the cello itself. I'd get a decent A string, depending on what your budget and goals are, I'd recommend the $20 Jargar or maybe D'Addario Kaplan which is much gentler sounding and feeling, sweet and easy to play, but not loud, hard to project and easy to choke it if you press too hard, but I like them for beginners overall. I'd say get good rosin. The wood bow it came with is also probably fine, but play both and see if you can actually feel a difference - play for 15 minutes with one, then switch for 15 minutes so you have time to get used to it. Put good (Hill) rosin on both of them.

Lastly, after you've been playing for a bit (enough to play a Bach minuet from the 6 suites, or the Breval sonata or something, like 6 months in?) go find a local luthier or bowmaker, see if they have a showroom where you could test-drive a $5k cello (that's middle intermediate, like high school players). they should give you a bow and some privacy. See how it feels compared to what you're used to. It's hard to gauge sound under the ear. If you're shopping for sound, you need to take someone with you (a teacher) or have someone at the shop play them for you while you sit across the room listening. But you can definitely feel the difference. They will probably come with Larsen A/D and Spirocore tungsten C/G strings, they'll give you a $1k wood bow to test it with, and the end-pin will be sharp :-)

If you want to argue the difference between a $5k cello and a $50k cello, it gets harder to quantify and you'd have have to do it in person, not in writing. But from where you are? A $1500 yamaha cello would be a step up, but you wouldn't understand what you're missing. I'd say $3500-5k and preferably a locally handmade one (no "brand," just the maker's name inside). It's not snobbery, there's something you'd just have to feel, but you might not be at a place yet to tell the nuance.

Hi, I'm here to help! It sounds like you have a lot of natural talent you just need a little push in the right direction.

Etude Books

Janos Starker's Organized Method of String Playing is really useful for squaring out your left hand, which will ultimately aid you in speed, vibrato and intonation. Make sure to go slowly with each exercise, but they have nifty blurbs about each exercises intention.

Any of the Popper etudes will do. They look really scary at first, and they don't go in order of difficulty. My suggestion is to start with 1, 6, 7, 11, 19 and then just pick ones that sound pretty or that you're interested in tackling. Joshua Roman has played every single one, so if you ever want to hear what it sounds like or just be awed by his virtuousity, I highly recommend. Each etude focuses on a different aspect of cello playing, so try to hone in on whatever the etude is trying to work on, and focus on it when playing.

One of the best ways to practice technique is to practice scales while applying different aspects of cello playing. That way, you're essentially killing two birds with one stone. Playing scales can be tedious at times, but it is so worth the effort, I can't emphasis that enough. Mark Yampolsky has a fantastique book of just scales, and for each scale he goes through triads, thirds with doublestops, sixths with doublestops, broken thirds, and more. He also puts little footnote things at the bottom of most exercises so that you can make the most out of them.

I never used this book (my teacher probably made me buy it at one point and then forgot about making me buy it) but looking through it, it has a lot of the really good things I talked about with the other etude books. S. Lee's Method for Cello includes both scale work and etudes/studies for various kinds of techniques. It's pretty all inclusive so even without ever using it, I'd say it's pretty good, since it basically includes the best of the other etudes I mentioned.

Other books I've gone through in my early days, I'm not writing a review on them all, you can check them out.

Justus Johann's Dotzauer 113 Studies, Book 1

Position Pieces for Cello: Book 1 by Rick Mooney

Also by Rick Mooney, Thumb Position For Cello Book 1

Grant's Intermediate Etudes in the Positions for Violoncello



Extra

Alistair McRae has an excellent tumblr that he has since stopped updating, but he is very philosophical and knowledgeable about cello techniques, and he posts some fantastic videos/posts on vibrato, posture, and practice tips which are actually genius. He has his own ideas for technique books which I won't post here for redundancy's sake but they're there.


Last but not least, I have my own suggestions for practicing better. Practice with intention. I know you said that you started practicing the orchestra music for an hour a day, but I'm a little skeptical as to how meaningful this practice is. It must either be really difficult orchestra music, or you know it like the back of your hand and you are running it through during your practice sessions, because a solid hour a day for a week should be enough to know the music almost entirely. Instead of practicing an hour, practice when you feel ready to work, that is, spend a lot of time on small segments of music/scales/techniques, and stop practicing when you feel your attention slipping, because practicing bad habits is the worst thing you could possibly do. Spend 15 minutes practicing bad habits and waste an hour trying to correct them. Don't give up hope! I know I just threw a lot at you, and I'm going to stop now, but if you feel yourself getting overwhelmed, take a step back, relax, and breathe. You don't have to dive right into any of these etude books. If you're just coming out of a cellofunk, in which you were unmotivated to practice, trying to work on technique is probably the worst thing you could possibly do. It's tedious, it's hard, and progress is so slow that it almost feels like you're slipping backwards. My suggestion right now, is probably to find a pretty cello piece that you really really like listening to, and work on that, because then you'll be motivated to practice. Then, you can start incorporating the technique books, and not only working on them in etudes, but applying them to the piece you're working on. Buy a book of cello solos like this one and just go crazy. Hope this helped! Good luck :)

Not sure what your price range is or what your bf has but here are some ideas (I'll try to go from cheapest to most expensive) :

A nice dark rosin. http://www.amazon.com/Original-Hill-Dark-Rosin-Violin/dp/B000F3FQP6


Chair strap. http://www.amazon.com/Xeros-Anchor-Endpin-Rest-Cello/dp/B000FCJUV8/ (This is the kind I have. There is no substitute, if he doesn't have a strap like this then he really needs one. If you are buying one note that you get one with a circular holder for the end pin and not a V-shaped one. The V-shaped ones are for basses and don't work nearly as well)


Sheet music. I am a fan of the Music Minus One (MMO) series. However a nice anniversary gift might be duet music. I can help think of some good duet music if you want but would like to know a little more about your playing level.


Bow rack. I bought my rack at Home Depot and it looks like this. (actual pic, sorry no link) http://i.imgur.com/Ytww0.jpg They're just hooks, but I really like mine


Cello CDs. There's a lot of good recordings out there but that's for you to find, I can give some suggestions if you want.


Music stand. http://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY/ If all your bf has is a wire stand then this is a great gift. There's also stuff like pencil holders, lights, and other stuff that would make good gifts as well.


Cello stand. There are lots of stands out there, I highly recommend a stand that supports the neck of the cello like this. http://www.amazon.com/Stagg-Foldable-Stand-for-Cello/dp/B003ZUEQLG/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1343515413&sr=1-6&keywords=cello+stand




There are some other cool stuff you could get, but may come off as offensive.


A practice mute. I would suggest an ebony comb style mute kind.http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Ebony-Cello-Mute/dp/B000F3HK5U/ over a "tourte style"

A tuner and or metronome. I use http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-MR500-Metronome/dp/B0002F6ZJI/

A wolf tone eliminator. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Cello-Wolftone-Eliminatr-Brass/dp/B003KWGW9I

If you can afford it, a nice set of strings would always be appreciated! This set is one of the better combinations around. There is also an option to buy a silk bag for cheap if you buy those strings, but even that would be a great gift alone :)

Otherwise, If he likes to practice in the evening, a heavy duty mute maybe? I use the Artino Cello Practice Mute

If he needs a endpin stop, the Dycem Black Hole hasn't failed me yet!

What kind of level is he? You could buy him some nice sheet music! Are you musical? Buy something you can play together!

Does he have a metronome? A nice mechanical metronome like the TakTell Piccolo would be ideal!

For scales, arpeggios, thirds, sixths, octaves, etc. I like Yampolsky's Violoncello Technique. For re-learning I would start here to get yourself reacquainted with the instrument. The book gives many fingerings and bowings to work through, and is presented in a very clear manner.

I can only estimate your level of playing, but check out http://imslp.org/wiki/113_Etudes_for_Cello_(Dotzauer,_Friedrich) Not only are they good books, but you can print them off for free on IMSLP (sorry for the weird link)

Popper's High School of Cello Playing is an awesome book, but probably one you'll want to put off until the basics are more secure.

I would encourage you to have at least one lesson with someone to make sure you have the correct posture and playing position, as that can cause major problems down the road.

Good luck!

I really liked this book after not playing since a little after high school, so about 7 years inactive.

What I found more important than just working on technique was finding a reason to play consistently, and to challenge myself. I found that with musician friends that needed a cellist (start simple with something like Wonderwal). And also with friendly community orchestras. Playing with others is challenging as it forces you to listen to yourself and others, and it greatly motivates polishing your technique.

Find fun and enjoyment in the hobby, I haven’t stopped playing since and have met many wonderful people out of my music adventures. Good luck!

Rent. Don't buy. If you need to buy, think if you can consider electric. You can find some cheap electric cellos around. I ended up getting one so I could practice at night without waking my family (particularly the children). I ended up getting this one, and after a few trips to the luthier to fix certain things up (bridge was too tall, and the fingerboard needed to be planed), and getting a new bow and set of strings, it gets a very decent sound and does exactly what I need it to for nighttime practice with headphones. Note that in all, this option did end up costing me about $450 with taxes, shipping and extra work, plus the fact that the bow I'm using is a $300 bow I'd already had for my other cello, and that I'm using a $100 guitar amp I'd already had.

I don't think under $300 is really a point where you can get an acceptable sound (especially with an acoustic cello), but if you're only using it for home practice, and can get by using a school cello while at school events, your options with electric instruments are going to be better at a lower price point than with acoustics. You could probably get by pretty well if you up your expectations from $300 to $500-ish with work and other parts.

I'd recommend still renting if you can get away with it. My school when I was going had a rental program that was $50 for the school year, and a $20 summer rental. That's going to be less than you'd spend on that $300 cello for your entire tenure at high school, and will be likely much better quality. If you get a cheap crappy cello, you'll likely have to get a better cello at around that timeframe anyway. Seriously, rent if you can. You'll spend less money, have a better experience, and you'll have the option to spend a little more for a better rental, rather than having to invest a whole lot more to buy a better cello later. By the time you'd want to buy your own instrument, you'll probably have to buy a better instrument if you buy now regardless. Always rent. Only buy if you absolutely need to or if you've already planned it out seriously and are going to drop a lot of money on an instrument that will last you at least decades.

practice etudes too. they’re beneficial like scales but they are more fun to play / sound a little prettier! here is a nice book of them if you don’t mind shelling out. it also may help to have occasional lessons to make sure your posture is still on point— makes a much bigger difference than you’d think

I haven't read it myself but Cello Playing for Music Lovers advertises it self as comprehensive and focused on adult beginners specifically . As a bonus one of the top reviews runs down multiple book options. Myself I'm also going through Essential Elements like you mentioned and enjoy it.

Since you're not going with a teacher I would highly suggest some YouTube channels like Johnathan Humphries and Sarah Joy.

Lastly, I would be iffy about being purely self taught, there are many teachers who do half hour lessons and will probably do it cheaper. Especially people who are current music students and don't have 15 years of teaching. Even if you had to go with once a month. There are ways in which you can give yourself unhealthy habits that could even be painful later on. So an occasional correction and instruction might really help. If you really can't... Play with a mirror.

Scales, my dear. Scales are you greatest friend and enemy. Also, slow practice enables faster learning. Sometimes the most efficient way to learn something is to go slow. Do not get frustrated at the time it takes to learn it.

When I first started learning cello, this book was my best friend. It will help you learn your finger positions, as well as provide music for you to practice it with.

Good luck!!

I have a few questions for you here if you don't mind. I'm a (very) beginner cellist and I'm playing one of these cheap-ass amazon cellos. I immediately replaced the tailpiece, the bow, the strings, and the rosin. I'd say the tailpiece and bow replacements really dramatically increased playability for me, though the base instrument is still obviously kind of shit.

What I want to know is, what kind of a difference would I see in being on an actual better Cello? Given the nature of the beast, it seems like i'm not running into the playability issues that you do on terrible guitars (bad frets, buzzing), and I'm not going to. I understand tone won't be the best, but I'm not certain I'm a good enough player for that to matter yet anyway. The whole friction peg situation is a pain, but the better tailpiece means I rarely have to re-tune at the head, I just get them stuck in the general area and i'm good for like a month.

Also, you mentioned putting better strings on, can you comment a little more on the difference between a $20 set, and say, this set of jargars? Edit: I guess you already did, What I mean is, can you describe the specific way cheap strings sound bad that better ones don't? I want to see if that's a part of my experience.

Also also, the rosin i'm using is still pretty damn cheap, and I feel like i'm leaving alot of rosin on the strings (a white cake buildup), but it takes really alot of rosin for the bow to feel sticky. Is better rosin better in that way? Do you have a recommendation on brand? How do you de-rosin a bow to get the chance to switch brands?

Thanks!

She is so adorable! She seems to have a good ear and a good sense of time, but you really should not let her play on a folding chair unless it is the only chair she can sit in where her feet touch the floor. Folding chair seats lean down towards the back, which forces your your body weight backwards. This is really bad for your cello posture and position. A flat seat like one of the chairs behind her in this video are much better. She will learn faster the better her sitting position is, because it will not restrain her motion as much as an optimal position. Tell her she is awesome!

You might consider http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Adjustable-Portable-Piano-Cello-Musician-Stool-Seat/dp/B009OXUN56/ref=sr_1_14?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458837058&sr=1-14&keywords=musician+chair


or better (and more expensive) http://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTRITE-Musicians-Chair-Vivo-USA/dp/B0016OIIX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458837058&sr=1-2&keywords=musician+chair

Feuillard (free on IMSLP is absolutely my bible. I don't use anything else any more for technique work. For etudes, everyone should have Popper - then, depending on your level, I would add Duport and/or Piatti collections. I spent years and years working my way through the Three Volume Schroeder Collection, it covers a great range of material. Probably 10-20% of the etudes there are a little thin, good to play through a few times but not worth real work. But I definitely became a good sightreader by just plowing through lots of it, and it contains gems from other collections (the aforementioned Duport and Piatti, for example).

There's also a very neat scales book called The Art of Scales. It's no Flesch or Galamian, but it has an interesting approach where each page is devoted to a key and you're presented with a variety of arpeggios, double stops, excerpts, etc for each key. It keeps things varied and covers lots of bases once you've already got your foundational work down.

I have used a book called "Cello Playing for Music Lovers - a self teaching method" by Vera Mattlin Jiji for teaching one of my adult students. You can look inside the book on Amazon.com and see if you like it. It includes a CD which helps you hear the proper sound. The writer is a retired English professor who writes well, and provides accurate word descriptions and reference photographs.

It is much better to have a teacher, but if you need to start on your own, this book may be useful reference material for the correct hand position, posture, etc. and it has a number of songs to play arranged in a progressive sequence.

If you buy this book, don't pay list price for it. You should be able to find it for under USD $40.00.

Lots of people like The Realist which may be what she has, but personally I feel like the Shadow SH-956 produces a better tone when played through a system. Hope that helps!

Go get your sound post adjusted. That might help it become more manageable with eliminators. Also, try squeezing the cello with your knees when you play the note. It's not the most ideal solution, but it works fairly well.

I bought this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KWGW9I?cache=bacae8532cc2759f4a78c0fafe56edbf&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407362686&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
(Sorry no formatting, I'm on my phone)

There are also mutes that hang off the string below the bridge that might be more appropriate for a really bad wolf.

I don't know why your teacher wants you to buy a new cello. It seems like you guys haven't really tried much in terms of controlling it. Try getting it adjusted by a luthier (not your teacher) and ask them what they would recommend you to get.

Edit: For some reason I feel very wary of your teacher asking you to replace your cello simply because of a wolf. Any teacher should know that a good cello will have a wolf and know what to do to manage it. I would be cautious in considering the cello your teacher wants you to buy...often when instructors get in with people who sell instruments they are offered a percentage on sales that come from their recommendation. I'm not saying this is definitely the case, but it's pretty weird that they wanted you to get rid of what is probably a perfectly good cello because of a common and fixable problem. If there's ever a time when you want to replace you cello, shop around yourself.

This is a complex question. First, it assumes that your teacher has taught good posture, and good LH and RH technique, you have a decent instrument and bow, etc. My first violin came with a Glasser bow and I happily started playing with it, it sounded pretty decent to me, until... I saw in a store that it was a $40 fiberglass bow, then i decided it sounded terrible.

Anyway, i've watched a number of violin and cello teachers over the years try to verbalize the action of hair on strings. What develops is combination of understanding, visualization, a developed ear and muscle memory that you have to develop yourself, you don't just absorb it from your teacher. You always should do the simplest exercises, playing a single tone, and then playing correct (beatless) thirds and fifths. It may help to read about it, like in books by Bruser, Klickstein and Kenny Werner about practicing music and this trumpet story:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Musicians-Way-Practice-Performance/dp/0195343131/

http://www.allaboutjazz.com/takuya-kuroda-rising-son-takuya-kuroda-by-danmichael-reyes.php

A friend who knows a bow maker recommended Andrea Solo Cello Rosin. This stuff is awesome. I bought several as gifts for friends who also play. Andrea Solo Cello Rosin Full Cake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045ZXJ68/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_z7lrybFN68ZHR

Probably weather related. I’ve seen this issue on some of the student cellos we have at the school I work at. Usually an easy fix. Also, you can buy a tailpiece with fine tuners built in for relatively cheap. It will likely improve your sound as well! As long as you’re not overtightening or being rough with them they should be fine.

Here’s a tailpiece: https://www.amazon.com/Wittner-Composite-Tailpiece-4-tuners-Tailgut/dp/B000LIC4HS

Also, if you decide you want to upgrade, I recommend Eastman brand cellos! Around 2k.

Amazon has some cheap electric cellos for around $300-400.
Something like this:
Cecilio Electric
I bought one, replaced the strings (another $80) and it plays fine. Perfect for a starter. If that won't work, maybe have a talk with a elementary/Junior/High school director and try to work something out?

FWIW, while I am very much not a successful or confident musician (I am an older hobbyist), I have noted people here whose opinions seem usually balanced and sound recommend The Musician's Way found at http://www.amazon.com/The-Musicians-Way-Practice-Performance/dp/0195343131, which seems to me to directly speak to what you are saying.

I'd recommend Abby Newton's Crossing to Scotland as a decant collection of arrangements of Scottish Music. Also be sure to listen to the recording, since there's a whole lot that isn't necessarily on the page. My only issue is that not everything is in the traditional key signature. Someone else recommended Liz Davis Maxfield's Irish Cello book and that's also decant introduction to the genre with lots of text about how to adapt fiddle tunes to the cello. There's also a vast collection of tunes on thesession.org, though you should expect to have to transpose down one or two octaves.

If you're more focused accompaniment, take a look at some of the albums Natalie Haas has released. She also released an instructional DVD with PDF sheet music. Or, go all the way back and see the original arrangements Neil Gow wrote down. There's a long history of cello accompaniment in Scottish Music.

this is like asking if a good set of wheels will improve a cheap car. a good set of strings will probably make it sound a little better, but no matter how much you polish a turd, it's still shit at the end of the day.

but like what many other posters have said, it really depends. i've had good experiences with the Helicore strings in the past and they are relatively cheap compared to many other popular string combinations.

You’ll get good advice from others- probably lift your elbow round etc etc.

But, this book is excellent- https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Cello-Suite-Study-Book/dp/1635230187

and, look into low tension strings. Holy shit I wish someone had told me that at uni. Life saver for people with little fingers.

And finally, think about the melodic contour/timbre you want; should it be a brighter sound, so A string, or do you need a mellow warmer D string tone? Are you breaking up the phrasing by changing strings or shifting?

Edit: nycellist to the rescue (that happens often on this sub!)- perhaps low gauge strings rather than low tension. I love my low tension strings but it might actually be the gauge rather than the tension that makes the playing easier.

What are your thoughts on when to start upping the practice time? I've been playing for 2 months now and just finished the first suzuki book (with a teacher). I'm practicing between 1-2 hours a day, sometimes a bit more, and could honestly throw more time at it if I wanted to but just don't feel like I have enough to work on at the moment. I've been doing 1-3 suzuki songs per week + 1-2 songs from the Position Pieces for Cello book, with a few 3-octave scales for warmup (C, F, Bb, G, D) each day

From what I've gathered, proper music students at university-ish level practice like 3-5 hours a day, but at this point I think I'd get bored practicing that much, even though I'd like to practice more because I'm so hungry to learn more.

In the under $500 range, you will be unable to purchase a quality electric cello. If it is just for practice and you're planning to perform with a traditional cello, that would be a great choice! But, if you're planning to perform with it, it is important to go with a higher cost, getting a better instrument.

This one looks like a reasonable option for your price range: https://www.amazon.com/Cecilio-CECO-1BK-Metallic-Electric-Fittings/dp/B007ESVCR6/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503664029&sr=1-2&keywords=electric+cello

I had a Cecilio cello for a short period when I first started. It was really bad but fine for the beginning. I don't know the quality of their electric cellos, though.

I have this set. They sound pretty good for 120$

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EENKMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qceHDbQQG1RXZ

I have that book, and I think there's a second volume as well. But I think this one is better and it actually uses the Galamian acceleration method for scales, arpeggios, and more:

The Art of Scales, by Wells Cunningham

You should take it to Kinko's and get it spiral bound so it stays open.

I have several colleagues who are very happy with this:
https://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTRITE-Musicians-Chair-Vivo-USA/dp/B0016OIIX0
I remember trying it out in-store and not liking it enough to justify a purchase - my recollection also is that it doesn't go super low. Worth a try though if you can find one to try out locally.

For the past five years, I've been using this:
http://jansenpianobench.co/jansen-wood-top-piano-stool.html
at pretty much any venue that doesn't have Wenger cello chairs or comparable. The piano stools are pricey ($300) but for me it has been an absolutely worthwhile investment. And they can be adjusted extremely low (just under 16" at the lowest setting.) They're also quite heavy but again, I've found mine useful enough that I'm still lugging it most everywhere I go.

Bow hand: Other guys have said it, closer to the bridge, even contact point. I would add that you want to apply pressure through your pointer finger because the shorter the string gets (the further up the fingerboard you go) the harder it will be to produce a loud and strong sound, so you will have to compensate.

Left hand: Learn all of the thumb position patterns. This is the book I used, it covers all of the basics with the thumb resting on the first harmonic. A problem I always had learning thumb position at first was my brain was used to the same spacing for whole and half steps, but as you get higher on the fingerboard, the spacing changes, so it will take a little bit of time to develop the muscle memory. Once you get it, you get it, there's not much too it after that.

there are students who are more advanced than me, but everyone is < 1 year. 3 students in total, I think, including myself.

I have been thinking of supplementing with online lessons, or perhaps a book like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Cello-Playing-Music-Lovers-Self-Teaching/dp/1412095603/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481493285&sr=8-2&keywords=cello+for+music+lovers.

But only as a supplement, not a replacement.

I have the Artino practice mute, it's amazing how much sound reduction it provides.

Artino Cello Practice Mute https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001A5J2EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jpJOCbVEVMJPN

https://www.amazon.com/Artino-PM-02-Cello-Practice-Mute/dp/B001A5J2EY

​

I use this practice mute. Works very well! it lowers the volume to around conversation volume in your apartment. Highly recommend it.

Good advice in this thread-- I would advise either a pickup that goes under a foot of the bridge, or a mic that clips to the cello itself. Here's an example:
https://www.long-mcquade.com/82202/Pro-Audio---Recording/Microphones/DPA-Microphones/Instrument-Microphone-for-Cello.htm

pickup example:
https://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

If you want a more electric sound put your signal through a computer or pedals on it's way to the amp.

Thanks! For anybody else on computer, here is your link: http://www.amazon.com/Changes-Position-Cello-Op-8/dp/1491041900/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376339135&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=Amazon.comChanges+of+Position+for+Cello%3A+Op.+8+%28Paperback%29

Keep in mind you'll likely need a pick-up if you're playing with amped instruments. The Realist will work well for your needs: http://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

You could go for something like this:
(http://www.amazon.com/Cecilio-CECO-4BK-Metallic-Electric-Fittings/dp/B0051HNHES)
Per the Questions and Answers on that page, the 'arms' fold in to make it more compact.

Having a wolf tone around the F#-G is fairly common as far as I know. You can take your instrument to luthier/reparier and they can move and reduce it by placing a small clamp on the string, discreetly below the bridge. Or you can buy one of these and do it yourself.

Also, check out this article.

Depends on your strings and setup.

That said, Hill Light Rosin.

Andrea

Pretty standard strings. Must be the angle or something.

Here are some resources:

The Fiddling Cellist by Renata Bratt: https://www.amazon.com/Fiddling-Cellist-Renata-Bratt/dp/0786686308/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

The Irish Cello Book by Liz Davis Maxfield: https://www.amazon.com/Irish-Cello-Book-Traditional-Techniques/dp/0876391374/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0876391374&pd_rd_r=HSVQMVQYS80GS8MS1P73&pd_rd_w=sBI0P&pd_rd_wg=iZr7i&psc=1&refRID=HSVQMVQYS80GS8MS1P73

https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Cello-Suite-Study-Book/dp/1635230187
Both paperback and kindle formats available.

Cossman and Yampolsky are both pretty standard for building good technique. They both have scales and arpeggios and shit. I'm making the undergrads do segments of Cossman this semester for their scale classes and they are PISSED.