Top products from r/Chameleons
We found 63 product mentions on r/Chameleons. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Extra Large, 24 x 24 x 48-Inches
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 10
Size: 24 x 24 x 48 inchesFor Old World Chameleons, hatchling Green Iguanas, geckos (including Crested Geckos), anoles and other arboreal species of lizards extra large open air aluminum screen cageLarge front door for easy cage access plus bottom door for easy substrate removalBeautiful, corrosion r...
2. Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Large, 18 x 18 x 36-Inches
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 5
All hardware includedeasy to assemble using only a screw driverEasy accessEasy to clean
3. Exo Terra Jungle Vine, Large
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 5
Natural-looking, waterproof vinesCreates a 2-dimensional habitatTwistable and bendableProvide a climbing obstacle for reptilesLarge; Measures 6 feet high x 0.5 inch in diameterAge Range Description: All Life StagesIncluded Components: terrarium accessory
4. Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent (13 watts)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Suitable for all reptiles5% UVB Output30% UVA OutputCountry Of Origin: China
5. Zoo Med Reptivite, with Vitamin D3, 2-Ounce
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Ultra fine super stick formula2:1 calcium to phosphorous ratioNo artificial additives or fillers
6. Zoo Med Labs Reptisun T8 Terrarium Hood, 24"
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 2
Terrarium use onlyEasy on/off switchUl factory listed
7. Ge 48688 Reveal Soft White 60 Watts A19, 4-Pack
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Quality from the worldwide industry leader.
8. Miner-All Calcium/Mineral Supplement, Indoor, 6 oz
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
The package length of the product is 4.8 inchesThe package width of the product is 2.8 inchesThe package height of the product is 2.5 inchesCountry of origin is United States
9. Zoo Med Economy Analog Dual Thermometer and Humidity Gauge, 6 x 4"
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Allows precise monitoring of both the temperature and humidity of your terrarium from one unitTemperature and humidity levels are extremely important to the long term heath of your animalsVelcro backing enables easy removal for cleaning or relocation
10. Zoo Med Calcium With Vitamin D3 Reptile Food, 3-Ounce
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Highly bioavailable source of calcium carbonateFree of harmful impurities (not from Oyster Shells)Use with reptiles that require vitamin D3 to assimilate calciumMade in USA
11. Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 T5-Ho Uvb Fluorescent Lamp - 24 w - 22"
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Eliminates the risk of vitamin D3 overdose from synthetic sourcesIncreases appetite and physical activity, while helping to induce reproductive behaviorsSafe and beneficial for use with all types of reptiles, snakes, turtles, tortoises and amphibians regardless of their UV requirementsItem Package W...
12. Exo Terra Sun-Glo Neodymium A19 Lamp, 60-Watt
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
60-watt broad spectrum daylight lamp for terrariumsCreates heat gradients for thermoregulationIncreases ambient air temperature; Creates a basking area for thermoregulationBulbs are coated in NeodymiumA19 bulb; Can be combined with Night Glo or Heat Glo bulbs for 24-hour cycle
13. Zoo Med Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb - 60 Watt
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
True blue glass not painted or coatedEuropean made for quality and longevityGenerates UVA raysBright and attractive
14. Fluker's 51019 Small Animal Bend-A-Branch Pet Habitat Decor, Medium,brown
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Three sizes available; all are 6 feet long.New improved color will not bleed.They bend to fit your pet's enclosure while offering more support than a conventional vineCountry Of Origin: United StatesAge range description: All Ages
15. Exo Terra Repti-Glo 2.0 Fluorescent Lamp, 15-Watt/18-Inch
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Provides ideal spectrum for all reptiles and amphibiansStimulates appetite, activity and reproductive behavior through UVA radiationHigh visual light output; Stimulates plant growthHigh Color Rendering Index of 98T8, 18 inch long light bulb; 15 watts
16. Fluker's Orange Cube Complete Cricket Diet
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Formulated to be easily digested by all feeder insectsFood, vitamins and water in one diet!
17. Zoo Med Repti Rain
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Plug n play ease of useFully programmablePortable indoor/outdoor misting unit for terrariumsIncludes AC adapter or runs on four "C" batteries (not included)Provide moisture for humidity-loving reptiles.
18. Zoo Med Naturalistic Bush Plant Mexican Phyllo, Large
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Provides natural coverFor all reptiles and amphibiansRealisticProvides natural coverFor all reptiles and amphibiansCreate your own jungle!
19. Zoo Med PowerSun UV UVB (160 watt)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Zoo Med PowerSun UV - UVB a self-ballasted mercury vapor lamp which emits UVA, UVB and heat all in one lamp!Fits into a standard ceramic socket. (No ballast needed.)The 160 Watt projects UVB up to several feet from the lamp's surface and is ideal for large terrariums or bird aviaries.Features includ...
First, let me share with you my little/HUGE hiccup I put myself and my chams through the last month.
I had to leave Florida in a hurry, and I had time to take my two boys' enclosures apart, and in my rush, I forgot their lighting (at least $180, easily), their supplements (Pfft, the ones I had weren't the best, but that was at least another $15), their live plants (which I wouldn't have taken them in the car anyway, but there's another $25), and then their fake vines and bendable vines ($37), total? $257, and why I know that is because I had to pull from all of my resources to make sure they had this set up today, and here is another view. BTW, THE PLANTS THAT I GOT THEM ARE TOO SMALL! But, they have them, and it's better than nothing at all.
Mind you, I'm talking about two chameleons, but what I had to spend to make sure that they were set up for this winter (I moved to Washington state), I had to do it, otherwise, I'm s shitty cham owner. I'm lucky there was already a humidifier here because I'm going to need that as the air is dry here and my Panther chameleon has already proven to be susceptible to respiratory infection as we took a trip to the vet this past year to get him some Baytril (antibiotic/oral), cost to the vet? $76.
I'm going to do a break down of everything that you're going to need for your Male Jackson (which I recommend that you start with a male Veiled. The Veiled are so much more heartier, they can take more abuse from a new owner, more forgiving for a better word..., I DO NOT suggest a Jackson for a first cham, and for that matter, someone who has never owned a reptile in their life). Anyway, here I go...
Set up:
Your total there is at $234, and you haven't bought the chameleon yet, but that is everything that you should have BEFORE you get your cham... Also, you're going to need...
Because you are new to this, having a temp/humidity gauge is something you might want to get as an aid to getting use to what their living environment should be like... so that's another $8
Prices my vary, depending on where you get all of your things. Getting stuff online can be cheaper, I randomly picked stuff on the internet and think I did pretty good for you, but you're looking at a nice little chunk of change just to make sure that you have the right set up to bring your cham home to, and I do hope that you'll take that and roll with it.
If you've NEVER OWNED A REPTILE BEFORE, I actually suggest that you start with something else. Bearded Dragons are awesome, AWESOME, reps, THOUGH, they are totally different than the care for a cham, it's a great way to start, and Dragons are even more hearty than a Veiled chameleon.
LASTLY, read through EVERYTHING on the sidebar -------------->
I would also avoid a lot of information that you'll find on the internet, and YES!!! That includes that one web site that probably is the first choice for you to go to when you're looking for chameleon advice. That site is horrible, save yourself the heartache, I started there, and I quickly learned that the site is a hot mess. There is never a straight and same consistent answer, too many myths, just no...
Hope all that helps, and thank all of the coffee I drank today. Lol! Good luck and welcome to the sub.
I've kept chameleons for almost 10 years, and I think I can give you at least a jumping off point to get started.
In my opinion, the biggest thing to put time and money into is the setup for the little guy. Having the proper enclosure, UVB lighting, heating, hydration, and positioning (in your home) is the single most important thing to have in place before you even start looking for the chameleon you want to buy. Panthers, in my experience, are somewhat more environmentally demanding than other generally "beginner friendly" chameleons like Veileds.
This shouldn't scare you at all. I want to make that clear. This is not a reply that is meant to discourage you from getting a chameleon, but rather to make sure that you have thought your way through the commitment you want to make. These are fairly demanding pets, and the last thing I want to happen is for you to spend 200+$ on a living work of art and then get into a losing battle trying to keep it healthy. I just went through that battle with a rescued veiled chameleon, and believe me it's not fun.
So long as you have prepared your chameleon's environment, you should have a nice and easy time keeping it hale and hearty.
A brief overview of what to expect when owning a panther can be found here
More in-depth details about setting yourself up can be found here
To give you a better idea about what I think you should look into, I'll give you a rundown of my personal setup for my female veiled chameleon. I've gone a bit above and beyond what the minimum is, but I cobbled all of this stuff together over about 3 years so that I could have a really nice enclosure and setup I can reuse over and over. I'll give you costs for my final setup and a few options you can use to save some money at the end here.
My personal setup for my current chameleon, a female veiled, is a screen-walled cage that is 2ftx2ftx5ft. It's difficult to find large cages that are at all economical to buy, so I built mine myself. I placed wooden dowels throughout the cage to provide a basic vertical structure, and a hanging ivy plant provides cover and extra structure as it grows throughout the enclosure.
I've placed the enclosure near a window that gets sun all morning, so I open the window to let the natural sun provide a nice basking area and plenty of ventilation during the day and close it at night when it gets cold.
On top of the cage, I have two halogen basking bulbs (incandescent filament bulbs die on me constantly, so this works better). One weaker bulb provides a concentrated basking spot at about 90^o on a dedicated basking "branch", and a stronger bulb provides a cage-wide gradient from about 78-85^o at the top down to about 65^o at the bottom. In addition to those, I have an Arcadia 12% UVB High Output T5 bulb and hood to give her the UVB she can't get past the morning.
I invested in a rainfall system by Exo-Terra to make sure hydration wasn't an issue.
With those points hit, I think my cage is a very solid environment for Pasquale to wander about in.
Here's the price breakdown on everything I have put into the enclosure:
Cage itself
Heating
Hydration
UVB - MOST IMPORTANT
Total price for above and beyond cage setup ~ 320$
You can save quite a bit of money on the lighting and hydration. Use 2$ 100W food heating bulbs ( USE CAUTION IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS make sure you cant catch anything on fire and make damn well sure that your chameleon has plenty of room to get out of the heat) or 8$ incandescent (non-reflector type are cheaper, reflected spotlight-type are usually 12-15$) pet basking bulbs, buy a 2$ spray bottle from walmart to hand-mist your enclosure or set up a drip system that constantly drips water through the screen onto your plant.
The one thing I would say you MUST have above all else named above is a good UVB source. UVB lets reptiles synthesize vitamin D3. D3 is marginally responsible for mood stability and neurological health, but more importantly it enables the absorption of calcium into their bones. Chameleons cannot easily make use of ingested D3 from supplements or gut-loaded insects, so they must make their own using the UVB they are exposed to. Without a good source of UVB, they will develop what is essentially rickets. Their bones will become brittle and malleable, bending, fracturing, and then eventually freezing that way when they begin to get what they need. It's an awful condition that is very simple to avoid.
The generally available/recommended Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 bulbs are beyond awful. I make it a habit to get my lights tested by my vet before I install them to make sure they're outputting useful UVB, and without fail every Reptisun bulb I've tried has produced about as much UVB at 3" as standing in the middle of a dense forest on a very overcast day. The Arcadia bulbs are wonderful, often producing more UVB than a bright summer day at about 12-18" and are very much worth the 10$ (+shipping) higher price tag. They're quite difficult to find, and not available in any pet shop I have yet visited, so you'll have to get them online. I sourced my bulbs and my T5HO hood from here. Make sure you match your bulb to the hood size. I believe that reptile basics' 24" hood fits only the 22" bulbs, not the 24" ones.
OK. So. There's your enclosure setup needs explained. Everything from here on is easy as pie.
You will need to keep 3 basic things on hand at pretty much all times: food, supplements, and gut-load. All of them cost less than 10$ each.
Choose a couple kinds of feeder insects (crickets, calciworms, mealworms, superworms, wax worms, butterworms etc) and keep a supply of them on hand at all times.
All in all, expect to spend about 10$ on food a month.
Supplements are important to have around because they make up for the deficiencies of the food you'll bee giving your chameleon. They'll have calcium, phosphorus, vitamins, proteins, and other minerals your chameleon needs that it may or may not get from its food. If you're a master of gut-loading, you may eventually decide to just formulate a diet that covers everything they contain, but it's almost universally a good idea for a beginner to have supplements around. I currently use Zoo Med's Reptivite as my dusting supplement, and I quite like it. Be aware that it has a very very high phosphorus content and can be somewhat hazardous to overuse.
I think $150 is a little low of an expectation for startup costs. I spent about $300 getting my guy set up, and part of that was experimenting with getting the drainage right. Later on I also spent $130 on a misting system, which broke about 2 months later. But I digress.
As for first time species, I think a male veiled would be a good choice. They are more forgiving of mistakes in husbandry (care and keeping) than other chameleons. They are also less expensive. The cons are that they often have a less friendly temperament than other species and don't have the crazy colors like panthers do.
I say male because then you don't have to deal with laying eggs, which females will do even without a male around.
Here is what I would consider a pretty comprehensive list of things you'll need:
Some people have had them break easily but mine's never had a problem. A little spray bottle just won't cut it.
THINGS YOU SHOULD NOT BUY
Basically, I am an insane chameleon mom and I know this might be overwhelming, but I just want to help. I have a lot more information about how to use supplements, feeding, water, and light schedules if you want it. Hope this helped and good luck with getting a chameleon!
> calumna malthe
Wow. okay, there's only 500 exported legally from Madagascar every year to supply the global market - 2014 figures should still be stable. (page 18)
I haven't found the 2018 export numbers but you can be sure that they're stable for this species.
This happens every year
Madagascar gets to fill their yearly numbers quotas and people get animals that there's no real successful care info given to people that buy them and don't have their basic research really done (impulse buy).
Where did you get this from?
Who told you to get a 10.0 and a repti sun basking spot lamp?
Where are you located in the world so we can get an idea as to your ambient home conditions.
__
I've got some info on the species, that isn't coming up any of the searches that I've done for the species in one of my books (Necas)
In the past the author has allowed me to not publically post entries but I can send some info via PM if you agree to not publish.
I can tell you right now that you're nuking the poor thing and it's got it's retinas burned from UVa.
That's not "sleeping" it's blinded and sunburned (badly)
Both the 10.0 (compact coiled no less!) and the Basking spot need to be turned off right now.
This is NOT a desert animal and you'll kill it if you continue to keep it like this. I guess they also recommended the "deep domes" as well I see in the picture and also sold you the substrate.
Take that stuff back.... you're not going to use it.
That stuff will kill it.
It's habitat elevation is from 800 to 1,300 ft along the eastern side of the island. Lots of rain and forest there. (see below for a dutch website that shows the habitat)
Get back to me and we'll help you with this.
But there's been some damage done and we'll see this get worse before it gets better (72 hour delay is typical between damage and it's effects being shown)
[UPDATE]
Here's a Dutch site with some info.
Look the environmental data. It's very valuable to help the environmental setup.
Basically this species is not a "easy" animal and it is above intermediate level species that does NOT have any established care parameters for it's survival. Like I said, there's only 500 exported every year to the global marketplace and you got one. Not much info on their care out there.
This is how all chameleon care was back in the 1990's. They were all known as 2-3 month animals - because that's how long they would last before they died. We know A LOT more about many species but there's still huge holes in our knowledge and many of these shouldn't be sold to the public imo.
Here are the pics https://imgur.com/a/c82oDhl
Before the barrage of hate like I got from my vet. Please read the below.
I moved him from the cage due to him falling since he was growing weak.
He like to drink water from the medicine cup. I still do mist but I noticed when he was young the misting systems and the dripper bothered him.
I do have lights but they are over him in the plastic tube as you can see that it is lit. I use the following light for sun and a 40 watt for warmth. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255OSG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A2A02U6YIW6LGE&psc=1
I usually have more branches and leaves but I moved them to a smaller enclosure when he started to appear ready to fall so that if he did it would be a shorter fall and I threw in t shirts at the bottom so that would help too. After awhile he wouldn't even try to climb on branches so I moved him to the tupperware container he is now in and I have a water dish in there for him. I still spray him lightly but I do watch him drink.
The branches and leaves are
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Jungle-Vine-Large/dp/B003PAY0B2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=exo+terra+vine&qid=1567192478&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Vines-Pothos-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B0009YEB70/ref=pd_sim_199_1/134-6895899-2549434?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YEB70&pd_rd_r=a6bf8eaf-e407-48fa-884e-3e58b35e5c38&pd_rd_w=5ivkF&pd_rd_wg=ohIaT&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=FTR0ZJFA7S1MNKNTNNJK&psc=1&refRID=FTR0ZJFA7S1MNKNTNNJK
​
I have used the Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage since I got him first starting out with small when I received him then moving up to Medium then Large. As get got older I moved him down to the Medium as he wasn't exploring as much.
When moving in the past I have not noticed him to get stressed.
Also let me be more clear. I moved and I noticed that he didn't eat many crickets the first two weeks. Then I got him a new batch and he usually eats a few when they hit the cage. He didn't go after a single one. I know they can be picky eaters so I didn't panic. I order some Green Horn Worms and waited but he did not eat those either. By this time he started to show that he was losing weight rather fast. I called the vet the said they could see me the next week. I went they cave me calcium drops and carnivore care. I tried it for 2 weeks and now not sure what to do. I know Panther Chameleons grow to be 6 to 8 years old in captivity but that's usually just a best guess from my understanding.
I am currently using a UVA/UVB pair of bulbs, but will upgrade to a single florescent bulb soon. What I believe they were referring to is this. It provides a bit more UVA and heat. For my UVB, I have a CFL 5.0 bulb. The combo is OK, but it still "beams" light just a bit too hard. I know how to prevent burns with this setup, so it's totally fine for now.
70F is on the lower end so no less than that. Outside temperature has little effect on what spectrum of light is being put out by the sun, however. As long as its not too cold, the Cham will benefit from getting full-spectrum and natural lighting. (For those paying attention, yes. The lighting spectrum does change through the seasons, but it's only a thing for photosensitive plants.. Not necessarily animals.)
Thank you, I will definitely go shopping for an umbrella plant ASAP! Will the monsoon misting system be ok for him or would he prefer a drip system? The supplements I purchased are Zoo Med Reptivite (with D3) and Zoo Med Repti Calcium (with D3). I plan on dusting his food with calcium 3x a week and the vitamin once a week. Thank you for your help, I'm so excited for my little guy!
OK so this is my plan. I intend to have my led strip in the back with the uvb bar facing the middle of the tank so uvb will be accessible to my chams from everywhere, then heat lamp toward the front with different levels of grapevine wood for thermo-regulating. 1 photos plant in the back under the led in each side, with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ0QA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I8VFJK2Z4Z68G&colid=1YYL895WRD22R for moisture on the plants and hopefully enough water to drink, this will be connected to a hygrotherm controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019IHK9Q/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3OKFSUVNZ1GZW&colid=1YYL895WRD22R. I was planning on having a normal basking light (daytime) in a double light housing and a red night time basking light also connected to the controller for night. After reading some of the info in the side bar i may just do a normal household bulb, no day and night but im worried about it being too cold at night and not using my controller feels scary. I live in NV so summers are warm winters are cold(snow) i keep my house at 74 pretty much year round but my ac does point in the direction of the enclosure though its across a large room it does concern me a little. Also i want to feed roaches but the wife insist there will be no roaches in her house, I work at a petstore so crickets are always available but im willing to feed what ever is best (outside of roaches) whats the next best choice.
For the love Pete.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=reptibreeze&qid=1564186636&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Thanks for all the advice so far. It's been difficult not knowing where to look for guidance as newbies. However, my girlfriend and I are really committed to giving him a great home. It's sad we haven't been the best chameleon parents yet.
Financially, I cannot afford to spend a couple hundred tomorrow, but i can within the next week or so for sure. I would appreciate any tips about how to prioritize. What are your thoughts on this cage?https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PHABI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484552202&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+cage&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BD-HmI2eL&ref=plSrch
I would like to get it tomorrow as i think a new habitat is the biggest priority right?
Also, since the new UVb bulb will be very hot at first, should I just keep his red light on him constantly for the next few days? Or should i introduce the incandescent bulb tomorrow and wait on the UVb still? I just want to do everything I can to prevent his eye getting worse while making sure he is warm enough. We keep him in a finished basement that rarely dips below 70.
Hi, thanks for watching out for us! He's got these lights as well as living in this [cage] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J0VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419894029&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40). I'll try to get pics for y'all! Anything else we need for this guy? Thanks!
Edit: I'll let you know the light strength when my gf gets home.
You should buy a bunch of these face vine so that he has something good to climb around on. you also need a good basking spot under the light, about 8-10" down and slightly off the the side (not directly under) of the light. You should also replace that deep dome with a 8 1/2" to 10" regular dome, which you can find cheap at any place like home depot.
Imgur won’t let me use it on my phone but i can find a link to the exact calcium supplement we’re using for the chameleon. We feed him kale, mealworms, strawberries and bananas as well sometimes to get him some vitamin A and calcium.
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/reptile/reptile-health-and-wellness/zoo-med-repti-calcium-with-d3-reptile-supplement
This is the calcium that we powder his crickets and mealworms with occasionally.
https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Orange-Cube-Complete-Cricket/dp/B000634JJE
This is what we occasionally feed the crickets, but we normally prefer to give them carrots and strawberries as well.
I can't see the animal clearly but I suspect it's not healthy. I would be leery.
Edit: Oh and those lights aren't the best for the cham's health. The tube bulbs are honestly the way to go. The cage looks to be a proper size for a veiled, they only really use the top 1/3 of the cage.
As to the value of the offer. Reptibreeze cage 24" x 24" x 48" is only $95 USD on Amazon. Proper lighting is about $30-40 from a hardware store and the T8 5.0 UVB bulbs are about $20.
Depending on how old he is, he might eat more or less crickets. I started out feeding my veiled chameleon ~10 a day, he's up to 15-20 a day now.
As far as watering goes, you should mist him as much as needed, I recommend this hydrometer to get you going. Keep it between 40-80% humidity.
As long as his basking spot is between 85-90 degrees during the winter, during the day, he should be fine. It's natural for them to get colder at night (they're native to Yemen where it's 40°f some nights).
As long as it's not below 55- 60° at the coldest he should be fine.
upvote for visibiity but id recommend the less concentrated bulbs. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8GF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
He's a veiled. Male. Here are some pictures of him and his set up.
Diggit 1
Diggit 2
Diggit 3
Diggit 4
About 2 weeks ago
Setup
His cage is a Reptibreeze
(http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-36-Inches/dp/B0027J0VZ6/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_8)
Have been feeding him crickets from the local PetSmart
I'm aware that his lighting is with a Reptisun bulb, unsure of wattage.
Live in an apartment in Maryland so actual sunlight isn't the easiest to provide as a college student and part time employee. He has been outside before and seemed to enjoy it.
We have used Reptivite to dust his crickets before, just haven't recently. The vet just called saying that they haven't been able to get blood work or fecal samples yet, as he's somewhat dehydrated. But so far he has low bone density.
At this point, I need to do everything that I can to provide the best for him. Any ideas on what to do? Also to ensure that our other one, whom we purchased this past weekend, won't end up like this.
Thank you so much. This has all been so helpful.
How many crickets per day? You should supplement what the crickets are eating by dusting them with calcium powder when you feed them to the chameleon. This is a well reviewed calcium supplement without vitamin d3. You will want to give him calcium with vitamin D3 a couple times a month. Here is an example of that.
Calcium helps with muscle control and a deficiency could be contributing to your chameleon's prolapse.
The only good to come out of the “cage” is for young babies. And even then this doesn’t have much ventilation. A screened cage is what you’ll need.
a cage like this is what you’ll need
Edit: link
I see, the one you were likely looking at was the led deluxe. Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Extra Large, 24 x 24 x 48-Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7RScBb7XZY2HD
That ones $100, pretty much the cheapest you'll find unless you build one
Regular soft white lightbulbs from Walmart or target or Home Depot, make sure they’re not LED.
This is just an example on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/48688-Reveal-White-Watts-4-Pack/dp/B005CB27O4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=80014582031&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2K3rBRDiARIsAOFSW_6_bpFeVCdOFRzKJOqyYSpMeBgOIoXDkOdj5IYaChlkzwpnCOCPhroaApc2EALw_wcB&hvadid=378313884367&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1014602&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12078946902800096086&hvtargid=aud-647846986441%3Akwd-312002388388&hydadcr=15069_9509940&keywords=incandescent+bulb+60w&qid=1567370686&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I would use this setup until he is a little older. A good adult cage for a veiled might be this.
I've had the same issue with finding a good size Ficus... turns out, i can just use a weak looking one and run fake vines through it (this kind) at least for the time being until I can find the right size ficus or grow one myself... lol.
I even asked around at multiple nurseries, they for some reason (unknown to them too) cannot get the size I'm looking for, they're either too small or huge ones you would plant in the ground outside.
Amazon sells reptibreeze. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_2FcaBbD2VJHJ2
Here are the bulbs I'm using. I have not washed his eyes with the saline yet, but was planning on doing that today. Do you think this is a good idea?
https://imgur.com/a/R91RKql
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK
They are in a double housing. I know this isn't the best lighting fixture and I'm planning on replacing it down the line but I thought it would have been ok.
Here you are.
The pricing is dependant on the size you choose.
Here https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labs-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B06XYWQJDK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reptisun+t8&qid=1572724972&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
I believe this is what you are looking for.
http://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B004JP3XJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458603210&sr=1-1&keywords=miner+all
That's for a T5 bulb, you want a hood for a T8 bulb. Then pick your size how long you need it. Then buy the T8 bulb that's 5 or 5.0 which means it's 5% UVB.
Here are some examples. If there is a plastic cover over the bulb you obviously run the light with the cover off, otherwise it blocks the UVB which is the whole reason for the bulb. You can get the bulbs at petsmart or petco if you are in the USA for around their normal price of around 20 USD just get them to price match their website price, otherwise they price gouge and literally double the price at the retail store.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1OKNCO/?coliid=I3C699EJ1G5CZ2&colid=11G1DAPZDOOGK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002QI86U/?coliid=I2PKG6AS6V1AL8&colid=11G1DAPZDOOGK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labs-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B06XYWQJDK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reptisun+t8&qid=1572724972&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.com/ReptiSun-5-0-UVB-Fluorescent-Bulb/dp/B000255OS6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=reptisun+t8&qid=1572725015&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5
OK I removed the wood.
I live in St. Paul, MN
Zilla Night black 100 watt heating lamp on during the day for 16 hours with a timer
And this exo terra 2.0 UV lamp
Hydrating using flukers mini dripper and i recently put a glass of water filled to the brim in the corner of the cage, ive yet to see him drink from it though.
i took him to the sink he did drink a good amount of water which sadly means your probably right Im really torn up over this because i thought i was a good owner. IM making a video right now but he isnt moving around at all, i put my phone in the cage because thats all i have to record video, i know that if i take him out and put him on the floor of my room he will start to walk around alot so i think ill record that for you if he dosent start to move in the cage. I turned the heat lamp off and set the uv light to ten hours, (buying a 5.0 today at my lunch)
edit: ill wait for him to move at his pace i dont want to put him on the floor just to get a video of him moving i dont like the feel of that, might take a few tries since my phone can only record for so long
If that is a mesh cage they are hard to see through and cleaning them are a pain. I'd suggest:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373590853&sr=8-1&keywords=reptibreeze+24x24x48
Im not entirely sure but i believe it was dehydration. My mother thinks its her fault because she hasn't been spraying down her cage while im at school. As for what I use-
I just changed her heat bulb to a 75 watt reptile heat one
Humidity has been hard for the past few days, but i manage to get it past 60 atleast, and when im home i make sure to spray her enclosure down a lot.
As for the cage, its the X-large reptile screen cage from zoomed, https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541196742&sr=8-1&keywords=extra+large+reptile+screen+cage
She eats both dubias and crickets, she refuses to eat vegetables or fruit that i try to give her.
Her food is dusted with Repti-calcium WITH D3 from zoomed.
I currently cannot take her to a vet since its 6 pm for me right now, my mother and I don't believe she'll make it until tomorrow. Ill see if i can get to an emergency one. She's also slightly moving around more and more and has opened her right eye a few times.
Will post pics soon.