(Part 2) Top products from r/CherokeeXJ

$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays

$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.

$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.

Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.

If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.

I don’t have that one, but I’ve got the ATP knock-off of it.

Bought it on Rockauto in 2009 and replaced it twice for free under warranty.

I noticed zero improvement but at this point it’s pretty far from stock engine. It looks better and definitely fits and lasts longer that the stock header.

I’m thinking a 2000 has the pre-cat manifold and I’d be concerned about emissions taking that off. I may be wrong, but I’m pretty sure my buddy’s 2000 Classic has the pre-cat.

the autopal housings are great and take H4 bulbs. super easy refit, although you should also do a relay harness if you are going to overpower them because all the power goes through the headlight switch in the stock config.

harness
housing
bulbs

Note that if you have fogs the highbeam cutoff circuit might malfunction if you install a relay harness. Some info here

TL;DR: Any h6054 housing will fit. Do a harness swap too.

Edit: the Autopal and some other housing brands are available with ECODE or DOT glass lenses, for LHD or RHD.
DOT means there is not as sharp a cutoff. This is used in the US because overhead road signs are not illuminated as they are in the EU. As another poster said, once you have the housing in with it's little stamp you pretty much have carte blanche for the bulbs

This is how it looks currently. Just replaced the head gasket, rockers, water pump, etc and all that good stuff. I'm gonna paint the trim, bumpers, flares, grill and head light housing, and the thing with the light in it that is over the license plate. I'm also going to remove all the badges and replace them with black ones, including the front "Jeep" badge. However, they don't make a Sport badge like the one I want so it's going to have to be a vinyl decal.

My plan is to take all the trim off, remove reside with goo gone or simple green, sand then clean everything, let it dry and mask it all off with blue tape and brown paper or plastic sheets and go to town on it with a few cans of this. I'll remove the grill and headlight covers and do them separate. As for the red stripe, I'll tape it off and do it with blood red Montana Black spray paint.

Few questions for you guys that did similar jobs already:

• What do I use to seal it?
  
• Do I need automotive sealer?
  
• If so, what brands?
  
• Where is a good place to get new badges (or is it ebay)?
  
  Next upgrades;
  
  
• New front & rear bumpers (suggestions? Don't want a stinger or anything too bulky, needs to have recovery points)
  
• Red LED for the interior dome light
  
• Lund Moon Visor or similar (Polish one on ebay?)
  
• Roof rack (or roof tent?)
  
• Camper conversion? I measured out the cargo and passenger area, after I move my spare I think I'm going to build out a platform and get a memory foam pad so I can camp right in my XJ.
  
  Thanks for reading!

www.jeepforum.com and www.cherokeeforum.com are great resources for mods, repairs, etc...

Buy a Chilton or Haynes repair manual too. Ive linked one below on amazon but can also be purchased at your local parts store. These are AMAZING resources for repairing your XJ including pictures and detailed directions. Once you've tackled a few minor repairs yourself, you'll feel like you can repair anything with the right tools and patience.
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Manuals/dp/1563925400/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473791814&sr=8-1&keywords=jeep+cherokee+XJ+manual

Pictures definitely won't hurt - your description isn't particularly detailed.

For help, you can post here or the Jeep/Cherokee forums, but my biggest suggestion would be to get a Haynes manual.

I recently bought my XJ and I've just started vehicle repair myself, and I've found that manual, Google, and YouTube to be the best help that I could get. It doesn't help if you don't know what you're looking at, though, so please, post pictures!

Front: Dorman 47079 HELP! PCV Elbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZIXIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5LlEXbGrGSf92

Rear: Dorman 47057 HELP! PCV Elbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5RXB6fuUAgRwJ

Grommets: Dorman HELP! 42344 PCV Valve Grommet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5I49C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2GMSYLIlDpfEr

No, but neither do the other kits.

If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.

That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.

a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).

What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.

Save your cash and do it right the first time.

I got these for $95, couldn't be happier. Very bright and light up a whole 3 lane interstate from median to shoulder, would buy again. They have a clear cutoff point and I've not had anyone flash their lights to say I'm blinding them.

As another commenter stated, also upgrade your wiring harness. I got a k suspension one and it was easy to install and works amazingly well.

Actually good LED headlights have great cutoff (not the cheap $30 crap.) I'm trying out these guys and so far they perform very well.

I've had good success with these as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

has the jeep xj on the logo. I used it and loved the results, and it sticks. tried heat gun, this is easier and im more confident with it.

If you have a 97+ these work great
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ALG0KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MA.5ybWVS0DG2

• On my 97 I used clear housings http://amzn.com/B0006309WA
  
• A wire harness made a huge difference http://amzn.com/B00BQH9548
  
• and hella 100w hi/ 55w low beam, huge difference http://amzn.com/B000COBLJI

That's the rear PCV valve, linked here:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47057-HELP-PCV-Elbow/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=45NCW8ZC6C1VSN98P8WT

If you are swapping both, I'd recommend the grommet as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-42344-Valve-Grommet/dp/B000C5I49C/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W5XYJ6P61B3R65MDZT6N

I recommend buying all this for the job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPL2CWI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5I49C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZI1U2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZIXIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

looked into this and buying replacements is stupid expensive. if you want the OEM molding look, you have to remove it, paint it and put it back on with double sided tape. this is the trim paint to use, even has an XJ on the can.

Rust-Oleum Automotive 251574 11-Ounce Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mhSPzb1NAMDJG

This is on my to-do list as well, I personally like the look of the 97+ molding when it's not faded grey. it's also saved my door panels from parking lot monsters who don't look before they open their door.

I think the ones your friend has are absolute glare monsters - they probably don't have a well defined cut-off line and blind the crap out of everyone else on the road.

​

Truck-lite knock offs are probably your best bet

https://www.amazon.com/Rectangular-Headlight-Headlamp-Wrangler-Replacement/dp/B074LT5B1M/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541441309&sr=1-7&keywords=5x7+Led+headlights&dpID=610AnF-vaCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I put this on my '92 earlier this year and so far I'm happy.

ATP Automotive Graywerks 101212 Exhaust Manifold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQLCU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N-xDxb2WAYAZS

I'm looking at something like this

Supposedly these fit: ATP Automotive YR-100 Detent Cable End

Looks like this one to me.
https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76810-Front-Bumper-Cherokee/dp/B006HYA7CY

If you don't have it already, you should buy this as your first step:



http://smile.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Manuals/dp/1563925400

Leave it in the vehicle along with a basic set of tools. You'll need them eventually.

If it's a 2WD and most of your driving will be on-road, I like to replace the front sway bar bushings with urethane ones (especially the end-link bushings). It's a $30 change which significantly reduces body roll when cornering.

Word of Advice!!!!

Make sure you have Replacement bolts for the Rear Leafs! Go to a Spring Shop for them, no Hardware store will have them..
Also, get this..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01996PZYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Return it if not needed..

A little late to the party but is this what broke: Detent Cable End?

Looks like a mopar brush guard that's been cut and attached with homemade mounts through the bumper. Normally it would go under and attach to the factory tow hook bracket. I found one on craigslist a few months ago for $50. Look around theyre not too rare

Looks like there's no aftermarket ones exactly like it. This one is almost it but it has 50/50 reviews of it fitting

Trucklites. I got these knockoffs and they work well. Going on 6 months now. Only $90.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LT5B1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_v3XRDbA56ZZ4F

Mine isn't super loud. But good enough for me.
I put in this double din head. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PV45GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_F.wRwbBZ29KCN
Trust me, it's a pain in the ass.
Then I put these speakers. Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 Prime 5.25-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ncxRwb4E81K7D
Eventually, I might put a 10 inch subwoofer and amp inside the right hand cubby.

Might as well get some disconnects instead of the stock ones. Not a huge price difference

edit

I didnt realize Metal Cloak made disco's. Go with /u/toaster_knight 's suggestion. Those look to be much higher quality

Amazon has it for a bit less: http://amzn.com/B006HYA7CY

I got mine off of amazon, I can't find the exact ones I got but just a quick search found these:
http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-4291-Cherokee-Liftgate-Support/dp/B000ALG0KS

sorry links are in .ca because that's where I ordered them, but you'll have the right part number.

sleeve : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES2079S-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C57VBY


tie rod end (long) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-DS1312-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C5400E

tie rod end (small) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES3096L-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C59W7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465312612&sr=8-1&keywords=ES3096


here's the thickness difference between both to give you an idea: http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tie-1.jpg

Pilot PL-RY1 Auxiliary Lighting Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BL2Z3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CWDJwbJY26WRX

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4” Inch Pad & Adapter 1-Pack – Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b1k-BbKAHXSWA

Anyone tried these yet?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074LT5B1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522592248&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=led+5x7+headlight&dpPl=1&dpID=61RbyHnYTHL&ref=plSrch

I've looked at the same kit and it doesn't come with that piece as far as I can tell. Link

I just replaced mine with Rockford Fosgate 5.25's all around.

Link

Bumper: OR-Fab XJ Front HD Bumper

Headlights: Truck-Lite knockoffs from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006HYA7CY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25K1PWV9EPWRA&coliid=I2EPGSWCQQT5DX

2018 New Osram 110W 5x7 Led... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWBRDJ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I think its this one. Ive been contemplating it for quite a while now. mostly a finance thing.

> Turned out the drag link clamp was turning despite the nuts not being loose

Replace it if needed

I know this is an old comment, but check out the putco wiring harness. I did one on my '99 and I can actually feel the heat coming off of the bulbs when I stand in front of them. Getting the proper voltage to those things is something the factory wiring just doesn't do. Pretty good result for like $25.

Took a bit of searching to find the correct relays since the ones that come with it aren't really well labelled, so I'll save you the trouble. I just keep a spare with all of the misc junk, just in case.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotive-YR-100-Detent-Cable/dp/B000NVW2LG/ref=gwm_tlc_pi?pf_rd_s=grid-6&pf_rd_t=Gateway-AmazonGlobal&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=C51XVDN0B8HRAWYC65P7&pf_rd_p=c47c1a64-54da-406b-819c-14c61f519944&pd_rd_i=B000NVW2LG

Someone on the Cherokee Forum FB page had theirs broke and found these (after getting all similar advice as you) they said it fit.

Thanks for the quick reply! re: broken bolts - I'm doing the job in about 2 weeks and I've been PB blasting all the bolts every couple of days to try and avoid it, but I also just picked up an air hammer and this flag nut piece from rough country, just in case.

Pretty cheap (compared to a shop I guess). Got everything on Amazon, so prime shipping is nice too. Only thing I didn't get on amazon was the tie rod adjusting sleeve (was planning on using the stock one but the tie rod ends didn't come out easily. So for $26 I just got a new one).

• Spicer ball joints - $56.57 x2
  
• Drag link - $59.60
  
• Drag link end (to pitman arm) - $29.28
  
• Drag link adjusting sleeve - $15.99
  
• Tie rod adjusting sleeve) - $26.99
  
• Tie rod end (to drag link) - $28.98
  
• Tie rod end (to DS steering knuckle) - $28.98
  
• Steering Damper $24.79
  
  So $327.75 + tax for nearly all new front end steering? Not too shabby. We also did hubs while it was apart, and replaced the 12 point bolts that hold the hubs in.

Curious - was this the new or old track bar?

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU

Part number 7572.

Was eyeing it up, since its cheap and also rebuildable with moog tre's.

I have seen a few rare reviews of them breaking, but usually only with hard offroading. Either way a track bar is NOT something you want to fail.

May just spend more on a double sheer or something like that.

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Disconnects-3-5-6-5-inch/dp/B00C0XC56C

Cheaper then most have no issues with it.

I had that same problem with mine. Replaced these bastards, the oil cap and the back pcv valve and hose and it stopped. Those seals wear out an start seeping oil from the top of the valve cover which coats and preserves the engine.

These bad boys.

Less than 200 on Amazon!

http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotive-Graywerks-101212-Manifold/dp/B000EQLCU2/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452003996&sr=1-12&keywords=atp+automotive

sadly I don't think it fits my 1990 renix 4.0 :/

Use a vice grip on the hydraulic shaft - if you set it just right it holds tight and doesn't damage the already broken hydraulic.

I did that for about 1 year until I said fuck it and spent the $40 on two new ones from amazon.