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Pretty sure it's this one. I'm sure there's a 1A auto youtube video showing how to install it. Worst case scenario there's like 3 parts in this system that total up to like $100.

Now I've been told to get a maintenance manual from Haynes (what was recommended to me) or Chilton. Helps with diagnosing issues and replacing parts, without having to do it the hard way first (of course you learn the easy way after you have done it once).

Also if you haven't bought a OBDII reader and if you have android get the Torque Pro app.

Well, you might want to clean that area up and https://www.amazon.ca/INNOVA-3568-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYGV4

Lucas fuel treatment

I dump in 6 ounces every tankful. I usually fill up on a 1/4 tank. You can buy a small bottle to carry in the truck that way you have a quart on hand and it's easy to put in. Then I refill it out of the gallon jug

I also use FPPF Killem Biocide Additive. 1/2 an ounce every other tank.

Was looking at these: https://smile.amazon.com/McGard-24210-Chrome-Wheel-Thread/dp/B000COTX34. Will they work okay/are they effective? Should I get a different brand?

My dad installed this exact fuel filter on my 1965 C10.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COBB2A/ref=pe_825000_114212990_pe_825000_114212990_n_id. It's a good filter. I cannot replace mine with another brand, as it rests on one of the headers. You could either replace it, or move it and replace it with the OEM filter. I have a a couple spares, as they do tend to get leaky after a while through the gaskets.

These are the ones I bought for my ‘11 Silverado. I have had them for at least 2 years and have had 0 issues with them even slightly coming loose. Love these guys and they’re made in the US
Auto Ventshade 194515 In-Channel Ventvisor Window Deflector, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZBZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7iGQAb6NJT22W

That may be why your Edelbrock is “finicky”.

You need this on the fuel line between fuel pump and carburetor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BWAPQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512011694&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fuel+pressure+regulator+carburetor&dpPl=1&dpID=41UMkbFUtXL&ref=plSrch

Set it at 3.

With engine off, look down into carburetor. Open the throttle completely with your hand. You will see the front two butterflies open and you can see into the intake. Now look at the back two butterflies. Are they open? Can you see into the intake? If the back two butterflies are closed, you need an adapter between the carburetor and the intake.

Does this help? I can find some pictures if you need them. I have seen a lot of problems start when changing carburetors. You could end up spending a lot of money and not have a decent running vehicle.

There are ways to tie into the fuse box inside the cab. Depending on the options you have, you may or may not have an open circuit there.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXK2

Amazon sells decent boxes for this.

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In my 93 I just ratchet strapped a square milk crate to mine and kept jumpers and chains in it mostly.

Year make and model ?

Without that info here’s at least some options

Dorman 47823 Spare Tire Hoist Cover Replacement for Select Chevrolet/GMC Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VRYTHSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jxoPDbD7D0X0P

Or just the cap.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232997038184

25 Wheel Opening Retainers GM 21077123 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CX40M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xn5hDb4JA873Z

Same retainer as wheel flares on GM trucks.

Headlights

Parking lights

Amazon

could just be the brake switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S2VZ6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those that you picked can be easily bypassed with hammering a socket onto it and with a power tool removed just as fast at the others.

Take a look at spinning lug nuts

If they want your wheels they'll get them no matter what you do. Just make yourself more difficult.

I get staggered wheels myself for a hot rod look, 8 in wide in the front, 10 in wide in the back, they can't sell them as well as all 4 tires being the same.

Ok, there is suppose to be a heater control valve on the vehicle. Is is a vacuum controlled type. It probably goes where the hoses are spliced at the beginning and have the aftermarket screw-type hose clamps. Look for an unused vacuum hose in that area. But that does leave me wondering why the valve was overridden/removed. Also, where the hose connects to the coupler should NOT be that loose! There is a plastic retainer that holds that in place that appears broken. This may cause leaks! I'll try to include links to the OEM valve as well as the coupler on the manifold. If you don't have a controllable vacuum source you may have to rig up something. I'll put a link to a cable controlled valve on Amazon. Look at the "purchased together" section and they'll also show the cable and cable stops that you'd need.

I would just cut out the stock muffler and leave the stock flapper. If you only want sound and arent doing an entire system (intake, headers, full exhaust) then this is best least expensive route.

I cut out my muffler and flapper and installed a MagnaFlow 12589. It is exactly the rumble i was looking for but i tuned out the AFM which causes the drone.

When you say lowering block do you mean something like this

Bully Imposter IMP-64X, Chevrolet, 17" Silver Replica Wheel Cover, (Set of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E3OF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K8S4Cb9CWYSDF