Top products from r/Chromecast

Can I make a general recommendation about product recommendations? There are a pair of websites called The Sweethome, which focuses on home goods, appliances, and tools, and The Wirecutter, which focuses on technology. They try to pick a single best product in every category, and they do a pretty good job at it. We've bought a bunch of their top picks (or near top picks), and everything has been really excellent. We're a bit obsessive, and can waste an hour looking at reviews for even a $15 item, so it saves time and stress.

If you know very specifically what you want, their recommendation might not exactly fit with your needs, but if you're a neophyte or kind of unfamiliar with the product you're buying, their recommendations are really helpful. They often have a "best for must people" option, an upgrade pick, and a budget pick where appropriate. Their computer speakers review probably covers what you're looking for, functionality-wise.

Their budget pick, Logitech’s Z313 Speaker System (see the little update box at the top of the review), is probably close to what you're looking for, though it does have a subwoofer. If you don't like that, we've had fairly good luck in our home with Logitech's Z200 speakers. They're a little bass-y, and the sound isn't as clear as it could be, but they're another good budget pick if you don't want the subwoofer.

When I was in the market for speakers a couple months ago, I had a look, and I didn't care for the look of their current pick the Mackie CR3 (see that little update box, again), because it has some horrendously ugly green accents. I ended up picking the Edifier R1280T bookshelf speakers. I got turned on to the brand because of their upcoming upgrade pick. They're definitely pricier, but I think they're worth it for me, comparing sound quality against other stuff. Really excellent speakers at a pretty reasonable price (as these things go, at least).

$120 for the self-powered PB42x is your basic entry level awesome-sauce, well loved by many audiophiles. They also are easy to power off 6S li-ion batteries- they advertise 18V DC power input (and come with an 18V wall power adapter) but accept up to 25V no problem (and rock a little more with the higher power).

How much space are you trying to fill up? Do you just want to do near-field listening? A small room? Bigger? What kind of budget? Audioengine makes some solid good self-powered speakers, in a range of prices. M-audio's AV series is pretty famous self powered monitors. JBL has the LSR305 and LSR308 which are well respected. Check https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/ and https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/ for more. You can also get separate amplifiers and speakers of course.

Although $15 more, consider the powered [Edifier 1280T] (http://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/studio-1280t-2.0-powered-bookshelf). These bookshelf sound great for the price point, are housed in a solid wood enclosure, have multiple audio inputs (including the 1/8-inch), remote for input switching and audio control, a 2 year warranty, and arrive with all the cables needed. It's currently the best selling bookshelf speaker on Amazon. Here's a [YouTube review] (https://youtu.be/7JgZIUDmbHo).

If you wish to save more, I also have another CCA connected to an ONEU Mini Amp that I've connected to a pair of used AR tower speakers that I scored buying from Goodwill for $20.

Nice clean build!

Do you have a link to the post? I am wanting to create a wireless Chromecast audio receiver with 3.5mm out to link up with my stereo set up.

I'm guessing you used the female hdmi dongle right?

How does the dongle support powering the chromecast without adaptation? Looks like you have adapted it yourself? Sorry about the barrage of questions :)

If you are going to buy something, just get the Fire TV stick:
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
(or a video cable, like MHL-HDMI, if your phone supports it.)

It is US$40, good very good reviews, and it does Miracast as well as Amazon's version of casting. Miracast is a peer-to-peer so you don't need to connect to Wifi hotspot and it has better latency.

Here's the speakers I use with my CCA in my living room.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA

They sound really good, and I can control the volume with my Harmony remote. It comes with a tiny remote, but I already had the Harmony hub so it was just easier that way, plus now I can control the volume with Alexa. These particular speakers have two aux-in ports, though I'm only using one with my CCA at the moment. Read the reviews on Amazon.

Hey!
I'm using this thing
Works fine for me and I'm guessing you can get it shipped to Poland or it might redirect you to the same item on Amazon.pl
Good luck!

PS you'll also need a 1/8th inch jack to cinch cable, which looks like [this] ( http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B000VFEMI0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417912911&sr=8-1)

Edit: Turns out Chromecast does require not just a wifi connection to communicate with devices on the network, but also an internet connection in order to run the "apps" that handle the steaming.

---

Back when I was in living in my university's dorms and my roommates and I wanted to use Chromecast, we bought this TP-Link travel router ($25) to just create your own quick private wi-fi network.

If you buy that little guy (eligible for Prime), you can probably set him up at home and connect your Chromecast to it before you leave. Then you should just be able to plug them both in at the cabin, they'll reconnect to each other, and after connecting whatever device you're streaming from to the wifi network, you might be able to cast your movies. Of course, none of the connected devices will have an internet connection which may be required for certain apps/services to cast even if the content is stored offline but I can't tell you for sure which ones, if any.

Or, you can go the safest route (dare I call it "old-fashioned") and just get an HDMI adapter for your tablet. Let me know what tablet you have and I can find one that should work.

I'm reading them as a comparison to the Chromecast because that's how Amazon present it.

The first bullet point on http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG is "4x the storage and 2x the memory of Chromecast" and they have an image on the left there that says "4x" in it.

Amazon are not just saying "hey, you could buy this instead of a Chromecast" they're specifically saying that it's better than a Chromecast because various quantifiable attributes of their device are greater than the attributes of the Chromecast - despite the fact that the devices operate differently and so the comparison is pointless.

It's like saying a car is "better" than a bus. Well, yes, it is in some ways - a car will probably get you from A to B faster and in more comfort. But a bus has a more powerful engine and you can read the paper while you're riding on the bus. They're devices that achieve similar ultimate ends, but in different ways, so it doesn't make sense to compare stats of one with stats of the other.

My man, look into powered bookshelf speakers.

~$70 Edifier R980T

~$100 Micca PB42X

I have both of these sets, each with Chromecasts plugged into them. They easily fill my house with gloriously loud music when I want. The Edifier pair even has multiple inputs, so I use them as both PC speakers, and Chromecast speakers. Simultaneously if I please.

I bought this:

UGREEN Ethernet Adaptor for... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N1X28F1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works a treat 👌🏻

I think you may be in luck op. I wanted to use my chromecast with wireless headphones as not to disturb the house when I watch tv late at night so I got a hdmi audio extractor. Interestingly when I tried it out, not only was I able to pipe audio out separately but the tv also still had the audio at the same time. I've been able to cast pocket casts to the headphones without even turning the tv on which is really handy. Hope this solves your needs!

Right now, you could get a Home for $109, and this Sonos 1 style Chromecast dock for $91.50, and a Chromecast Audio for $30.

That's about $230 before tax and shipping, and it's pretty simple. The CC fits in the dock with an included Toslink connector, and does auto-power on. Already multiroom, even though the Home is one room.

Or you could replace the dock with these powered bookshelf speakers for $120. (thanks r/BudgetAudiophile/) Still well under a Homepod, and now you have two good speakers, so far.

The cost difference would really run away if you tried to multiroom with the Homepod.

I second what /u/darthgeek has said; there isn't really a way to make your Chromecast private without direct access to the router's configuration.

It's also very possible that device discovery won't be possible anyway; also most Unis I know use 801.2X authentication (basically, have to put in your uni email and a pass to connect) so the Chromecast won't work without the travel router anyway.

My friend uses this one and she says it works like a charm - notice it even says "Chromecast compatible" in the description.

It's OK, you'd still have to setup ad-hoc network on your windows machine. I'd use the generic edimax version of the asus travel router. You'll like get/give much better reception and it's only $21:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHPP6Y/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1QHWJA16PQQ6DET2X2Z3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

I have an older HooToo from Amazon. Think I paid about $25 at the time. Works great and I'd recommend the brand again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wta2AbX2REGC7

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

This is the one I have, super easy set up and has repeater, router, bridge and client modes. Set it up as a router at home initially, then anytime you go to a hotel just plug directly into the hotel Ethernet and you'll automatically have your own network wifi.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mpbs/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1RAV7R1T41HN5AMEJV55

If the hotel blocks the broadcast, use it as the adapter for a laptop when you connect to the wifi, then next time it connects on it's own it should be fine.

This is perfect! Just over $20, which is just the price I was looking for.

Link for those interested:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ADHPP6Y?vs=1

A Nexus Player for $99 would be an expensive option, but it comes with a physical remote while still being able to accept casts like the Chromecast does. So they can use the remote, and anyone with a smartphone can use that to cast.

And FYI, the Fire TV stick doesn't have voice-search. You have to buy the voice remote separately for $30 or download the free mobile app. $40 stick + $30 remote = $70 .... and the Fire TV box is $99, which comes with the voice remote already... and then there's the AppleTV which just got a price drop to $69. That comes with a physical remote as well...

Here's a couple product comparisons:

• from Amazon
  
• from Roku

I purchased something similar from amazon.com in the states a couple of months ago
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072
I have the chromecast on the HDMI imput then used a second cable to run the HDMI signal to my TV. The audio is pulled off and run into the CD imput on a very old Pioneer Receiver/Amp (VSX-9300) Then I ran the power to the converter box from a switched power input on the back of the receiver. This allowed me to power on the receiver only and then stream pandora to the chromecast/Receiver. If I want to stream to the TV, I can do that as well. So far it's working great.

Yup, that means it's working as intended. Nope they don't need the Chromecast app - that's only for setting it up. The only way to achieve what you want is to have the Chromecast on it's own network that is separate to the main network - not just extending the original network. This means that you require a router that gives out DHCP addresses and uses the original network as it's backhaul internet connection. A router like this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Repeater-300Mbps/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=dp_ob_title_ce would do the job. You connect it in Hotspot mode and tell it to use the existing wireless network or it's internet connection.

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072

Nice thanks! I have bought the NAS so once I have the TV I think this is the sort of thing I may need to pick up!

I use a WeMo switch to accomplish this. I hated the WeMo app, so I built a small PHP page to control it and threw it on a Raspberry Pi. I want to work on a script to check the chromecast to see if it is casting something and then turn on the switch automatically, but haven't gotten there yet.

PM if you want help or instructions.

Looks like [this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1) after a quick google search, I'll either get this ons or the vieuwHD one mentioned above! Thanks!

+1 for this the 1080p model and up are much better and I have had good experience with the UGREEN Ethernet adopter with the 1080p model (4k model has Ethernet) https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adaptor-Chromecast-Network/dp/B01N1X28F1

Thanks for the clarification, so it looks like I'll be picking up a small travel router with the CC then. I'm looking for something tiny and cheap (less than $20 ideally) and works well with the CC. Any recommendations? I'm torn between these two:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PTCFFW

Two things off the top of my head:

1. Buy a travel router like this one
   
   
2. Buy a USB wifi dongle so your laptop has two wifi adapters, then you should be able to connect to the hotel wifi with one adapter and share the connection with the other one

You'd be piggybacking another device in the chain, but something like this might work for you.

The top review on the page states that it can be used with chromecast to separate the audio and video streams.

If you have a laptop you may be able to set it up as a wireless hotspot after logged into the VPN. It think it's built into Windows 7, but you can also use something like Connectify. You can also use a Wireless Bridge. Your schools IT Department may become aware of bridge on the network though. For 20 bucks it can't hurt, but I would try to use your laptop as a bridge first.

I'm seeing the bookshelf, tower, and amp wiki pages. But is there a powered speaker recommendation page? I'd like to keep the solution in most rooms down to just a speaker/s and the Chromecast, no separate amp.


Edit: Okay, I see that powered speakers are sprinkled throughout the bookshelf list. And the thread notes that if there's no resistance ("ohm") or efficiency ("db") in the "Tech Specs" column, that's a powered speaker.

It's a bit disappointing that the cheapest powered option listed is $120. I don't doubt it's good, but I'm looking for a bit less $$, or if that much or more for it to be a more compact unit, like Sonos 1 or 3.

If your projector doesn't have an audio out then there are things that will split the audio out of your HDMI signal. Then you can plug in your speakers directly. This was the top result when I googled it but look around. There could be better ones for you.

I have 2 HDMI ports on my TV and bought an HDMI Switch, it works great.

You need to get a travel router. I got this one and it works great. [HooToo TripMate Nano] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6)

This one worked great for my Gen 1 Chromecast

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_MWHCzb5STSF6M

This guy works great as well and is less than half the price from the same manufacturer. No battery pack though

Honestly probably getting a cheap battery powered travel router on Amazon. Tp link makes some. Get one with WISP so you can connect to the hotel wifi then rebroadcast your own local wifi. That would be cheaper and more reliable than a RasPi.


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

I have found a couple ways around this. I carry two phones (one for work) so throwing up a hotspot and connecting both devices to that does the trick. If you don't have two, I have also found a portable router in a hotel works as well since you don't need an internet connection. Just plug it in and connect both devices. Something like this below...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007PTCFFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464787400&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=portable+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2Bf4kmQ1nL&ref=plSrch

I think the excellent tplink wr702n should do what you want.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007PTCFFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425597583&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+tl+wr702n&dpPl=1&dpID=413Vno7RF8L&ref=plSrch
It has several modes of operation. One is to connect to an existing WiFi and create its own different WiFi ssid and password which you could set up cc on.

One thing that can cause a problem is if you need to go through a sign-on page to get on internet as these usually work by using Mac address of PC being used to sign on.
You can get round this by temporarily setting PC Mac address to same as cc Mac address when signing on.
Many posts on this forum how to spoof Mac address to work in hotels, unis etc.
I have a feeling this is what you mean when you say each room has its own username and password. I find it hard to believe each room has a unique WiFi access point I.e you will connect to an common WiFi ssid e.g "hospital", which may not even need a password and when you try to use internet up pops a logon menu. This is very common in hotels.
If it is like this you may not even need a second router, but just to spoof Mac address so you can sign in.

Could you clarify how you connect to internet in hospital?

Here's that same router on Amazon's US site:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHPP6Y/

Or, more expensive, but more versatile is this travel router, portable NAS, USB power bank, and more all-on-one box that I have just switched to and like so far:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICEWB58

That might not work. First of all, its the male HDMI end instead of the female HDMI end. Second of all, it may not be HDCP compatible, so the Chromecast might not be compatible with it. Try looking around an amazon for something like this and get an HDMI to DVI cable to connect to your projector. Finally, some versions of DVI carry audio. I don't remember which and it probably wouldn't work through an HDMI adapter cable anyways, so better off the use the 3.5mm coming out of the linked device.

American? Here ya go!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y1WCDE/

Thanks /r/mecrob I should've caught that ish

True. You can use a cheap toslink extractor / hdmi pass-thru if you want the option to run the Chromecast for audio without the TV on.

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

Hi. I don't really follow the religious part of this but I'm interested in understanding it. Is this part of the concept where you can't use machinery on the sabbath, as this guy is controlling your TV making you either have it on all day, or break you religious obligations by turning it off?

That was just for my interest. He's a dick regardless of that for a) controlling your chromecast and b) sticking his nose in your religion.

As said elsewhere here - maybe look into getting another router. Maybe this one. Allows you to connect the router to your current wifi, and set-up a private network from that that your neighbour won't be able to use.

The best way is to use the audio output from your TV.

Most TVs should have a 3.5mm, RCA, or optical audio output.

If you can't do that for some reason, get a HDMI audio extractor:

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/

Be warned, 4K versions of these will be more expensive.

No. But if you throw one of these in between the two, you should be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM

Edit: Make sure your Chromecast is powered by its own power supply, not the projector (USB/MHL)

Solution here, posted on this subreddit about a month ago. Cost is about $10.

BTW, you could have found that thread if you did a search on this subreddit for the word "Audio." Came up fairly far up in the results list, and was obviously what you were looking for based on the subject title.

I ordered one from Amazon, received it, and it works 100%. Easy peasy.

Your app casting this files to Chromecast might send them in to good quality and Chromecast 1gen wifi won't take that.

Maybe connect Chromecast via cable? Search for "chromecast usb ethernet adapter" e.g. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N1X28F1/

This thread shares solutions to a similar problem, using chromecast in a hotel

https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/9kl6xh/using_chromecast_in_a_hotel_how_bad_of_an_idea_is/

​

Get a cheap mini router with WISP mode. It will give you a private WIFI bubble and share your dorm's WIFI/internet connnection

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

HDMI splitter + HDMI to 3.5mm would be cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8WFEZQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00FHHQW4E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XR5QPWZHMVSG6QG5XTX

The reviews have interestingly variable results with Chromecast, I wonder if some people are trying to use it unpowered.

You can definitely get it in the UK.

And probably Canada.

I assume he means he wants something that splits the hdmi signal into digital video (hdmi/dvi) and analog or digital audio (3.5mm jack or optical).

And yes, there is such a thing.

just buy a hdmi splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376961070&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch

i just bought this one and its kinda shitty ir doesnt work but the switch works. There are much better ones available

You need to extract the audio from the HDMI connection. Something like this works well:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00G9FDJNA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462549127&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor+3.5mm

I got got one of these hootoo travel routers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJmGDb4W10W1A

It lets you setup a private network off the back of a public one like xfinitywifi our something similar.

I believe the answer to 1) would be http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404993797&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor

Something like that.

You could get something like this of you just wanted to use the audio portion.

If your monitor has an audio out try it... if not you'll need an HDMI to HDMI + Audio... like this one (there might be cheaper out there... this was just a quick search): https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

No... Your projector needs to be on for that to work.

But you can plug the Chromecast into your AVR (if compatible) then out of your AVR to the projector.


Or, get a HDMI audio splitter... it's a passthrough box.


Chromecast ➡️ HDMI splitter ➡️ HDMI cable to projector, audio cable to AVR


Something like this


https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072

I assume the OP was more concerned with hearing new notifications pop up. If the concern is privacy, use a pocket router like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX8BO/

It does not unfortunately. :(

Is this what I am looking for? Again, need the output to be a single 3.5mm aux cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524927704&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+splitter+audio

I might look into that.

I found another one on Amazon with more reviews and also cheaper. Do you think this will also work?

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Same thing happened to me. I bought this gizmo on Amazon, and it took care of the problem. $27 - Check it out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.

For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with this adapter this adapter.

You could use something like this to split out the audio signal from the chromecast, but that is a bit expensive for just doing that.

Like another comment said, they are most likely a rendering. They look very similar to Kanto and audioengine speakers.
A reasonably priced powered speaker set is made by micca but only comes in black. Micca PB42X Powered Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZOZ1wbMEPN3GH

An HDMI audio extractor would work if you had external speakers.

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

HDMI out to the tv, l/r or spdif audio to an amp or powered speakers.

If you don't have external speakers, you will need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Converter-Supporting-Coaxial/dp/B00QTIYMQ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774767&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+convert+to+component

and use a component input on your TV. You need one of these with a scaler because I assume since the TV is old it won't accept 1080p over component so you can't use one of the cheaper straight HDMI to component adapters since the chromecast will output 1080p with no way to select.

They make HDMI audio extractors. You can find them on Amazon.

ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor | Optical Toslink + L/R Stereo Analog Converter Outputs | VHD-H2HSAs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-uh.wb9PTD9CY

Cool project! I was simpler and just bought a remote control outlet from Amazon that controls the power source of the Chromecast and could use a more fancy WeMo Remote if I wanted to do everything from my phone.

Wanted to try out your route but didn't have the motivation.

You can add the app to your account using the browser while it's still free, then actually use it once a patch comes out to fix the crash. Claim it here: http://amzn.com/B004Y1WCDE

>https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC\_SX236\_SY340\_FMwebp\_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

It does work w/ a travel router, or by cloning your phone's MAC address. That said, I agree... it is easier to use the HDMI adapter. I just hook my phone to the TV this way and use it for netflix and prime video while traveling. This also allows me to quickly and easily switch between VPN servers, or even watch movies I've "downloaded" to my device if I'm in a country w/ crappy internet.

It will never really be supported, they want you to buy their amazon chromecast called fireTv... its $100


http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC

I think what you might want is an HDMI Audio extractor feeding a Bluetooth transmitter talking to a Bluetooth reciever, ala:

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/

https://www.amazon.com/Miccus-Home-RTX-Mini-Transmitter/dp/B0197VRGVI/ (need two of these)

And then connect them via optical cables on both ends.

Your video is marked as private, so I cant watch it.

If your problem is HDCP, buy this splitter. I have the splitter to connect my chromecast to a VGA projector. The splitter strips the HDCP. This allows you to freely convert the HDMI signal, or to send it as is to a non-HDCP compliant monitor/TV.

I'm gonna give this a try to sort out the HDCP thing, and will post back the results: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC

If HDCP is the culprit, this will strip the HDCP from the signal, allowing you to use it on non-HDCP device. Chromecast would go into the input, the other end would go to your TV.

Here is the link for America

http://smile.amazon.com/Plex-Inc/dp/B004Y1WCDE/

$0.99 here.

Much shorter link, without all the referral parts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y1WCDE/

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WR702N-Universal-Extender-Set-top/dp/B007PTCFFW

€20 for this bugger.

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mpbs/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395330377&sr=8-1&keywords=travel+router

Edimax BR-6258nL N150 WirelessPersonal Hotspot & Travel Router

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADHPP6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WKNBybVZBS1T0

Just get this guy or something similar.

This is the one I use with my chromecast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has anyone considered getting a regular Chromecast instead of a Chromecast Audio and using one of these HDMI Audio Extractors (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E) to cast just the audio?

option 1. get a fancy stereo that has HDMI passthough. you plug the CC into the stereo.

option 2. get a fancy doohickey - an hdmi audio extractor

option 3. run an audio cable out of the TV's headphone jack and into your stereo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nor will it.

Ended up ordering one of these, a few hours ago.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F8WFEZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Majority of the comments are for people using it in the capacity I require.

I use this J-Tech adapter. If you have a reasonable power adapter for your chromecast, it doesn't require its own power supply for audio-only applications.

There are other adapters but since I was still using HDMI in my setup, I needed the J-Tech gear originally.

This I think is the one in the picture
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9FDJNA?psc=1

Cheapest reliable "non-hackneyed" method is Fire TV Stick

I use this...

http://www.amazon.com/HooToo-TripMate-Wireless-Pocket-Travel/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419803685&sr=8-2&keywords=hootoo

It also allows to me load up a lot of media on an sd card for local play...

You can screen mirror without internet, but not cast. You still need a network both are connected to - it just doesn't require internet connection.

A travel router will work and is reasonably cheap.

I just use one of these and put it in bridge mode.

I've used this one (now $13):

Mnxo® HDMI Female to VGA Female with 3.5mm Audio Output Video Adapter Convertor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0X4B6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_nIN2tb1K41GY48AN?ie=UTF8


Haven't used this one yet, ordered one yesterday:

GoodBZ HDMI Female to VGA and Audio Adapter Converter,White+Free GoodBZ touch screen stylus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEZHSE2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_FJN2tb08D8XX1H13?ie=UTF8

You could look at getting an HDMI-to-VGA or -DVI adapter that splits out the audio: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0X4B6W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ST3GM2P73OO2&coliid=I3DFVCDNJSVSUJ

I think a [HDMI audio extractor](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wZGOzbXHRRJM2) is what you are looking for.

Audio signal splitter such as this

You will need an HDMI pass through that extracts the audio if you don't have an aux/headphones out on it.

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

As for displaying the computer and Chromecast on the same screen that is most likely not possible at the same time. The screen would have to have pip or split screen and most computer monitors don't have that but you could always check.

These are what I'm using on my CCA. Decent sound.

/u/jeanpoelie can verify that by comparing to the one they already have. the one on the store is rated 850a.

and in any case, there is always this - https://www.amazon.it/UGREEN-Adattatore-Chromecast-Ethernet-Alimentazione/dp/B01N1X28F1. Just need to add a 2a usb charger

At least. So let's just say HDMI audio splitter and be done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've bought probably 40 of these in the last 1.5-2 years for the various jobs I do. All of them have worked with DirecTV & Comcast receivers, Apple TVs, Amazon Fire Sticks/TVs etc etc etc. If swapping cables doesn't work I'd give this a try.

This might solve your problem

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBHX072#Ask

Recently bought this to plug my Chromecast directly into speakers with so we could cast Spotify without having Spotify Premium.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I have a Chromecast Audio just sitting around unused.

But no, I don't think you can integrate this into a video setup.

As others have said: no - you cannot use Ethernet via HDMI with the ChromeCast. You will have to use WiFi or buy an Ethernet Adapter for ChromeCast (like this). Google also offers an official adapter on their website.

The Amazon Fire TV.

I just looked up the product on Amazon and they claim it does. Is it possible that they can mention that but it's not 100% the case and I would need to get a different converter? Sorry for the weird question back, I'm not an expert at this at all. I put the link to the product below as reference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not possible without hacking the Chromecast (which as far as I know is not possible).

Your best lazy bet would be to get this: WeMo Switch, Wi-Fi Enabled and plug the Chromecast into it.