Top products from r/DRZ400

Do not buy an SM harness... That is exactly what someone who owns an SM would say (although I own one too).. but, I have both an E and an SM and have done plenty of swapping of parts between the two, i can assure you there are far more differences than you realize and you will not be happy when you are trying to mate up everything You simply just need to add a new extra, more simple harness for street legal applications. Lots of places sell these, but if you are convinced on doing your own I will write something up below.

As I mentioned above.. the SM harness will have neutral light wiring, clutch wiring, kickstand wiring, fan wiring, entire cluster wiring, a different run/stop switch wiring and so on... The harness is ~$250 new.. used will be ~$70 and up before shipping. And, unless you want to buy all the oem bar/lever switches, instrument cluster, and so on you will be cutting all the factory connectors off anyway and buying new ones. So really, you just spent $100 bucks on wires, and now you have a harness tied into your frame with any number of wires that are not used but are still wrapped in with those that are needed. Need I even mention, that there is the level of effort in removing your existing harness to put the new one in. If you haven't done it before, then I reserve the "i told you so" card for when you start thinking you should have just ran new wires. Why rip out all the current working wiring on your bike just to run lights and a horn? You really just need to take your time and snake some new wiring through on top of the existing ones.

What you will need:
A spool set of multi colored stranded wire for $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N51OO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZOwHxbBZEX0R4
black electrical tape
wire loom if you want it.. lots of black tape will work
If you want to get fancy and connect things up nicely, get a handful of universal auto connectors, nice and pricey ones are "deutsch" connectors but spade connectors will work just fine. all the turn signals are 2 pin. the taillight is 3, headlight is 2 pins per light.. (high and low) depending on which you get. Brake light switches are 2 pins each (front and rear). All the relays are typically spade connectors, and there will probably be 6 of these. You will also need 2 for the horn.

Tap into power anywhere after the ignition switch.. so that your lights only come on when you have key-turned.. there is a number of places to do this then run power to your control on the handlebar.Ground will be from all over, best place is the battery though.

Taillight might as well be powered directly from the ignition.. it comes on all the time when the key is turned. Same with headlight, but you will need to switch that between high and low. this takes care of your rear running light.

Typical handlebar control you should get.. i didnt look long and this one may be a bit pricey, but it has all the switching you need. https://www.amazon.com/Technologies-12-0055-Off-Road-Multi-Function-Handlebar/dp/B000IOO4KK/ref=pd_sim_263_33?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eakRFE3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=0XT37ZA8388WFWNJSQQK

You can use 2 relays for the whole setup.

For the headlight.. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/84601/N0381.oap?ck=Search_N0381_-1_4631&pt=N0381&ppt=C0335#compatibilityTab_ will work fine. the switch i made above goes before the relay and has two wires coming out of it(one high, one low).. and one common going in.. Connect a +vdc going into the common.. the other two outs will be going to relay.. one for high beams on 87, the other for lows/running + on 86. ground goes on 85. Headlights done.

Flasher relay for your blinkers.. .. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NOV0/EP34/01546.oap?year=2001&make=Suzuki&model=Swift&vi=1375130&ck=Search_relay_01546_1375130_4631&keyword=relay&pt=01546&ppt=C0117
This also goes before your turn signal switch.. the relay has a power in.. B, and then a ground.. E, then a flashing VDC out, L. L goes to the handlebar common input and the controls have 2 going out.. one goes to Front & rear Left.. the other Front and Rear Rigtht. each turn signal has a ground as a second wire. here is a simple picture.. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk204/freddyflatfoot/Signal0_zpsd66b34a5.jpg.. for the relay i linked, the B is X in the pic.. L is L and the E is for ground or P in the picture. turn signals should work now.

The annoying part of all this will be the brake switches... E model frames do not have the welded bolt holes for the S/SM switches for the rear. Also your front brake levers do not have bolt holes for switches. Yet again, another failure point if you go with an SM harness. To get these working, I would go with banjo bolt pressure switches for both front and rear.. just need to make sure that you get the right size to replace the oem banjo bolts. Here is an example.. (may not be the right size)..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTV0RC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0039ZTQEO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=G97BJBWZ2KJBAABS9H7T If you dont go with banjo bolts, you need to rig something up for spring activated switches on the factory E levers, which dont have any mounting points, unlike the SM models. Once you do this, you will run two grounds to the brake light. +vdc will go directly to the light, the two grounds will go to the light via the two switches. When either one of the brake switches is hit.. it completes a path to ground and the light will come on. Brakes are only annoying because of the need to refill your brakes. (good opportunity for steel braid lines! if you wanted them anyway).

The horn works just like the brake.. power to the horn, ground through the momentary switch built into the controls.

Put a fuse or (multiple if you prefer) inline for the wiring you just.. somewhere between the ignition and the components.

Your last bit you need to figure out is a speedometer, and you could get an S/SM cluster to make it easy.. except on money.. but a Trail Tech Endurance is much cheaper ($89.99 new) than a used factory instrument panel and comes with the wheel sensor you need. If you get the striker or vapor you can get a sweet looking indicator panel to go over it that will give you turn signal indicators, and so on (extra wiring needed though). Trail Techs are accurate once wheel speed is set correctly and they are really.. really easy to install. So much that KTM/Berg/Husky uses the same reed switches mechanism for speedo function. If you do this, remove the old speedo cable, plug the hole in the stock wheel sensor up with a rubber plug or epoxy(if you never will use it again) and then leave the sensor there as a spacer for your wheel. I think some sites sell a spacer to eliminate it.. I cannot remember.

Thats it.. You would have horn, signals, headlights, taillights/ brake lights, speedo and you didnt mess with your factory wiring one bit, which means the only thing that will possibly NOT work when you are done is your lights or horn.

I could try to draw up a crude wiring schematic if you really need, or I can answer questions as you do it if you feel it is something you want to try. Either way, I have faith most people can figure this out with some guidance from the forums, youtube, and google.

The DRC Edge tail light seems to be pretty common. That's the integrated one with an upgraded circuit board but the one that's just a tail light can be bought here. The Acerbis supermoto fender seems to be popular for the front. My friend has a pair of these Zeta hand guards with turn signals that I really like. As far as racks, my favorite is the b&b rack but they're based out of Australia. Any all metal shift lever such as this or this will probably help with black marks from the rubber on the stock one. I have a Corbin seat from the previous owner and I don't really like it much more than stock. I'd probably get a Seat Concepts or a Renazco. As far as foot pegs, I had a bike with IMS pegs and I liked those for the short time I had it.

Unfortunately, for some reason, the third hose is included in the airbox microfiche, not the crankcase one or whatever one the oil return tank is located in. Found this out when I was repairing mine. Check it out. It connects on top of the large rear carb boot (#6, sorry, not the airbox. Technically called the outlet tube :P ) with a little plastic L piece.

Parts 11, 16, and 17 is what connects to the oil return tank.

I would use something higher heat resistant. Air duct material is usually only rated for about 180° degrees Fahrenheit radiant heat. This and related material is rated for 2000° F radiant, and like 400° F direct contact I believe.

They also have a black spray on coating. This would look perfect I imagine. Give it a couple coats, and I'm sure it'll protect it just as well.

DEI stuff is sold in O'reilly's, Pep Boys, etc. if you can't wait and don't mind paying a couple bucks more than Amazon Prime.

Any tape or sealant, make sure the oil return tank is SUPER clean. Any residual oil (oil in plastic even) can make adhesives not want to stay attached.

I'm in Mexico, but this info LED bulbs model would be help anyway.


I replaced incandescent stock bulb indicators with that:
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-600774743-par-de-led-cree-1156-7506-direccional-cuartos-reversa-1000lm-_JM
It has a great lumen power more than stocks.
You must replace Flasher relay with this model, because LEDs bulbs blinks more faster with stock relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For tail stop brake bulb I replace it with that:
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-598842987-foco-de-stop-led-1157-para-motocicletas-1000-lumens-potentes-_JM
It has a great power and minor consume.


All bulbs sizes are compatible with stock ones.
Hope it help to you.

​

Thx boss. Seems like they have the 120/80-18 for ~$60 on Amazon which seems like a great price.

Alternatively, may grab a new front wheel as well. If I did, Revzilla has a nice combo going for $111.

Would I be fine with 90/90-21TL for the front? TL vs TT if I want to shop around? Since the stock is 80/100, would this have any noticeable effect on my speedo? Thinking 80100% vs 9090% is only a mm difference..

Well, what size do you need? On my WR250f I ran Shinko 705's, at $60 for each tire, that was a damn good deal for me. They lasted several thousand miles and were good if I ever needed to go off-road, and had great handling on the road.

Yup that is the right seat. You have to install it on your original seat pan. It's a pain, I would suggest getting a good stapler to do the job.

The plastic tanks might be a little lighter, probably not by much though. I had used the 4.1 gal, and the 3.1 gal. The 4.1 was nice for the range, but I didn't like that it always had a little bit of extra fuel that you couldn't use in the lobe. Also it didn't make the bike look as fast, which was important to me. The 3.1 was a good compromise of range and looks.

The JD kit may actually increase your fuel economy. I actually noticed that it did for me, and many others noticed the same. It also offers a needle with adjustments that the stock needle does not give. It is a very common mod to do, so the bike might already have it. Especially if the PO put a pipe on, but then again who knows.

Kientech makes the extended fuel screw for the bike. When you use the fuel screw, you have to use the OEM Pilot jet size of 22.5. Then turn the fuel screw 2.75 turns out. Many folks get this wrong, they install a bigger 25 PJ, as is recommend with the JD kit, but then they install the extended fuel screw too. This configuration is not good. The fuel screw has s different profile than the stock screw, it already compensates the same as a bigger PJ size would offer. So you end up with way to much fuel. This is covered by many folks as well.

I didn't actually buy the levers I had so I am not sure... but something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/MZS-1996-2000-2000-2017-DJEBEL250XC-1998-2007/dp/B01DBPUHIU

There are like a 100 options I see on amazon. You might want to search around for something with better reviews that looks like that.

The bike pumps oil back into the frame reservoir while it runs. When the bike sits, the oil slowly drains from the reservoir into the bottom of the motor. If you check the oil when it has not been running recently, it wont show any oil. If you check the bike immediately after it was running, it will always show full or high. The bike has to have been running on the street for a while, then park wait 3 mins, then check. The manual says you can idle the bike for 3 mins, then wait 3 mins and check, but this is wrong, just idling the bike will give a false low reading. It is super annoying. I would always check it when I got home after a long ride, that way I was never second guessing myself with pre-ride half assed checks.

I spent a huge amount of time confirming the oil check processes on my bike. The stupid dipstick was maddening. I can backup the procedure that I mention above because I would always measure how much oil drained out of the machine each time I changed the oil, and I would always check it before draining to confirm things too.

ProTaper -CR High Bend Bend with a 1-2" riser.

Mind you, standard bar size is 7/8", the fatter bars are 1 1/8" so if you up size you'll need to make sure you get the adaptor for the mount etc... But everything else should just fit right on, recommend getting new grips.

• 6'2"

I bought this and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LB8PI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510099229&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tusk+spark+plug+socket&dpPl=1&dpID=31hdTR5ZzbL&ref=plSrch

I picked up this phone mount for my iPhone XR wrapped in an Otterbox Defender. It works well. Still have my phone. Had to use a strip of card stock and some masking tape to get the handlebar mount thickness right -- the plastic rings it came with were not large enough. I mounted it all the way left next to the bar clamp. My phone covers about half the dashboard, but I can easily still see the speedometer half.

I recently installed This Yuasa battery in my wife's DRZ, it works fine.

Its these bar ends:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can take the clamp off of the bar end portion and clamp them directly to your handle bars.

The relay behind the headlight shroud? Is that what you are asking?


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Controller-Suzuki-Signal-Bandit/dp/B003UN4FXW&ved=2ahUKEwju5cjp5KnjAhUQOs0KHZQ2CEgQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0YruURk2ofwFiYCjsK3RCm

I picked up the acerbis Cyclops.
Cyclops

Installed:

-Trail Tech 752-119 Vapor computer

-FMF PowerCore 4 exhaust

-JD rejet 39mm FCR carb

-Aluminum skid plate

Purchased (will install):

-Kenda K270 (3.25-21 front, 5.10-18 rear)

-JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

-DID 520VX2GB-110 Gold X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

-MCCT, red billet

-Silicone coolant hoses

-FMF PowerBomb header

-Kick Start V162

-2011 DR-Z400S subframe

-2-port USB charger / voltmeter

-Weego JSPT524 Powersports Tether

Need to do:

-Free power mod

-Loctite clutch bolts and stator bolts

Cargo, haven't bought anything here yet:

-PMR rear rack and sissy bar.

Haven't decided between side racks:

-Option 1 - metal looks sturdy but has just 2 mounting points

-Option 2 - great that it attaches around back for extra stability, not sure how many actual mounting points it has

-Option 3 PMR again, I like that they seem to hug the bike well but not sure if metal panniers can be used, or just bags. And in fact these only seem to have 2 mounting points as well... what's the weight capacity on any of these setups if they all only have 2 mounting points?

Still researching:

-SM footpegs or similar wide option

-LED headlight bulb

-Steel brake lines

-Windscreen

-What the hell taillight I have and where to find a flat metal sheet to get my license plate to mount on it, since the existing metal plate is broken

-Ceramic coating for FMF PowerBomb header

-Ceramic wheel bearings link link link. Expensive, but would be neat if price were no object. Will be doing mostly street riding.

-Lithium battery or capacitor - this looks appealing, and ThumperTalk carries a capacitor that would cut down on weight but would mean no electric start. I have a kick start kit though so maybe I want to live without a battery, not sure.

-Iridium CR9EIX plug

-Tool kit in one of those black plastic canisters at the rear of the bike on the left, opposite the exhaust tip

-Seat Concepts seat

-Find passenger pegs & mounts to add to the S subframe

Frivolous but tempting:

link

link

link

link

link

link

The bike has 1800 miles on it. It has Renthal bars, ProTaper grips, some Acerbis replacement plastics, and a IMMIX racing rack. It's sitting on Dunlop 606's. The only things I could find wrong with it were the dented muffler, bent brake levers, and missing oem mirrors.

I would appreciate some recommendations for these upgrades:

• Wide foot pegs
  
• Brake and clutch levers, I was considering these budget levers
  
• Better mirrors, I can't see a damn thing without crouching to one side
  
• Integrated tail light
  
• Upgrade to the headlight, either a drop in LED or a full replacement
  
• Low profile turn signals
  
• Bark busters, I was considering Acerbis Rally Pro X-Strong
  
  Any mandatory mods or other upgrades I should consider? I plan on jetting, 3x3 mod, and getting a full exhaust down the road some. I'm still using borrowed gear at the moment so I need to buy that before I get too crazy.