Top products from r/Detailing

We found 20 product mentions on r/Detailing. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Detailing:

u/neildmaster · 5 pointsr/Detailing

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!


u/dcast777 · 2 pointsr/Detailing

I like the smell of the Griots garage product leather conditioner, but it’s not really a professional product, ive had good luck with it though. You really can’t go wrong with anything from CarPro or Adams polishes.

Chemical Guys make good stuff too:

u/aleakydishwasher · 1 pointr/Detailing

You could spray in some of that rust conversion spray paint. The rust will turn black and the rest will stay clear. The black potion is still oxidized iron so it will not change color again and the black will look much better than the red/brown rust

This stuff works and while the heat wont exactly be kind to the clear portions, it wont affect the areas turned black.

u/knockknock619 · 1 pointr/Detailing

I sure hope that's the the case! what threw me off is the yellow fuzz that's around the backing plate I guess I need to just scrape that off?

Lake Country - Dual-Action Hook & Loop Flexible Backing Plate - 5 Inch Diameter

u/demfeelz916 · 2 pointsr/Detailing

Eraser wheel.

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4in Pad & Adapter 1-Pack - Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool

u/GreenFlash87 · 1 pointr/Detailing

No youre right it will probably leave the clear coat exposed, I'm planning on waxing the hell out of it afterwards to protect it from happening again.

Here's a link to where I found it with some reviews for anyone that's curious. No mention of any clear coat damage.

CRL Water Spot Remover - Quart