(Part 3) Top products from r/Diesel

/u/Kiwibaconator has it right, but allow me to expand on that. For both gasoline and diesel fueled engines, peak combustion temp and exhaust temp is right around 15.5 to 17:1 (lambda =~1.1); anything richer or leaner than this range becomes cooler.

As you may know, diesels generally run at 25:1 with a peak of 18:1 to 16.5:1 only during acceleration and the turbo has not produced full boost. But during steady state lug curve, generally runs at the ~28:1 (rated) to ~22:1 (peak torque) and 50 to 65:1 at idle. This steady state lug curve afr is well below the peak temperature of 15.5 to 17:1. The leaner side of afr is much cooler than the rich side of afr.
Why is lean afr cool? It is because the more excess air is available, the more the heat of combustion is spreadout among the mass of air. Think of the air as a tiny heat sink, the more Air to Fuel ratio, the more heat sink mass to energy input.

Gasoline will typically run on the rich side, from 15.5 to 14.5 afr. With modern 3-way cats and O2 sensors, the engine is designed to oscillate back and forth between 14.5 and 15 for catalyst chemistry reasons. Gasoline combustion temps are lower because of the much lower compression and boost, but the exhaust temps are still higher. Running extra rich (<14:1) also helps prevent predetonation by slowing down combustion with excess fuel and partial combustion products. Slowing down combustion with extra fuel also combines with the heat sink idea, except now the extra fuel is the heat sink, and the energy release is limited by the amount of oxygen available; so in a sense the extra fuel is not combusted thoroughly, which limits its energy release, but gets heated up a lot which helps dilute the heat and reduce the peak temperature.

Source:
Heywood
ME - engine design 10yrs (diesel)

I'm sorry to disagree with the other forum suggestion, but I personally think that Oilburners.net has the best knowledge base to learn from. Hundreds of tech articles and many active members that know their stuff. Give it a look.

As for the engine, it will likely need a fuel system refresh with the amount of miles it has. I recommend doing the injection pump and injectors at the same time. With that also comes the return line system, with these things done, it will become a new animal. This cost will range around 1k-1250 bucks if you do it yourself. A little over 600 for the pump, minimum, for a quality rebuild, and about 450 for injectors. It is a pretty simple job, just do your research if you intend to do it yourself.

It's fairly accepted that an injection pump has a typical life of about 100k miles, though some are known to run longer.

Also, go find yourself stanadyne fuel additive. Either lubricity or performance is fine, but pick one and run it in EVERY tank. These guys are the makers of the pump, and this additive is designed to keep it lubricated and happy.
here is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M5QPSY?cache=3d44ea401507193c0b19f1da6f909236&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1413839175&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
Which reminds me, I need to get some more ordered. You can also find the smaller bottles at many parts and farm stores, but the bulk jug is a much better deal.

Got any good size channel locks you can get on it?

I had to put a screwdriver in the side and eventually went all the way through one time then turned. (This was on my ‘99.)

I bought this one not long after.

TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_BJtMAb2G01VJ8

When you got a put one back on, just do it snug with anti-seize. Pretty hand tight is good. The heat will expand it and cause it to seize up.

Thanks guys!

I'm considering getting this inline filter (http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Universal-Inline-Glass-Filter/dp/B000MT94OM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) since it looks like i'll be able to connect it to the fittings that go into the stock housing.

The one thing I'm wondering is what's the best way to get the truck going again once I've plumbed this filter inline? I can't see how I won't have a air gap in there, since it's mounted horizontally.

I mounted the one on my 7.3 in the drivers side of the bumper using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI38MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mixed and matched my words there a bit, I'm fully aware that most of the semi plug-in's are below the drivers door or just to the front of them. Seems like semantics to me at this point as the rest of my thoughts were pretty coherent. Thanks for the correction though.

Pretty sure this is what you are looking for.

Ngk YE01 (2649)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RLX9DQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_86_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R5YMSBTE5VD4JXD4F9YD

I opted against the Ram Box. There are times that I would like it (for example, when I was tailgating at Jimmy Buffett a couple weeks ago - or today when I was supposed to tailgate at a Brewers Game) - but beyond that, I wouldn't use it much. I definately wouldn't use it enough to be worth $1500. I may someday get the Undercover Swing cases though.

Do yourself a favor and get the pencil retrofit glowplugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-80035-0250201044-Duraterm-Glow/dp/B001BFTUGI

They glow to full power in 5 seconds instead of 30 and they get much hotter.

And don't forget the injection pump has its own oil sump that has to be changed.

The leatherman squirt is my vote:
Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_g--9ub16GVE55


Or a flashlight like this: Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4--9ub0V16HNV

Something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-Nitrile-Gloves-Heavy-Duty-Powder/dp/B002UFLQ60

The whole recall kit is available on Amazon. If the fuse blows, you're supposed to replace that whole jumper harness rather than just put a new fuse in.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO

A quick google search of "gm# 12389548" comes up with a number of parts houses that sell them. Ballpark $550 -

Is [this the part] (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12389548-Original-Equipment-Modulator/dp/images/B0013G0Q40) in question?

http://www.amazon.com/Mariner-Universal-Plug-Holder-Black/dp/B000KOOY1M

It's just a holder. You clamp in whatever plug you want. I used an 18" triple tap from harbor freight.

30% over rated continuous draw for switches/breakers/fuses/wires, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/BEP-720-Heavy-Switch-Continuous/dp/B000Y85RHE

Here is the adapter and here is the gauge.

You need this. It sits on your IP timing gear cover. I had to replace mine last year.

not sure about the price, but I like the sound of these injectors. also thinking about dropping it 2 inches, if I find myself with a couple hundred extra dollars lying around once the swap is complete.

Aube by Honeywell TI062/U Plug-in Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QFZ3Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_uTN1BbS1KT3SN

Set this timer to turn on the block heater a couple of hours before you usually leave, and set the temperature function to 37F. There is no need to run the block heater all night or at warmer temperatures.