Top products from r/E30

Did you replace the rubber brake lines that connect to the calipers? They could be swelling under pressure.

Did you do anything with the calipers? Check out the pistons? Replace the seals? A repair kit is super cheap.

As for bleeding to make sure there's no air, I do recommend using a power bleeder, just because it's easier. I fabbed up my own power brake bleeder so I could do it myself, but you can buy one pretty inexpensively. Definitely made brake fluid changes and bleeding easy. No more shouting to a friend to stomp the pedal, etc. Here's the Motive one on amazon: :https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Adapter/dp/B0002KM5L0

If you want a shorter pedal distance, you may need to swap in a larger bore master cylinder like the M3 or E32 master cylinder with a 25mm bore (versus the 21mm & 19mm bore that came from the factory).

I've only worked with one a handful of times. But each time I've had few issues. Just make sure you really research what you're doing, grab a bentley manual and follow its directions. Make sure you have a good set of jack and jack stands, the E30 is a relatively low car, so if you're doing work to it you'll need to lift it up sometimes.

Always do valve adjustments every 15,000 miles and the timing belt every 50,000, the M20B25 is an interference engine, if that belt goes it'll blow the entire thing. Make sure you change the oil and fluids, etc. etc. The engines in these things will go forever if you take care of them.

The cool thing about E30s is they're an enthusiasts car, so there's quite a few videos on YouTube on how to properly do a lot of this stuff, and there's at least 2 active forums; E30tech and r3vlimited so If you need to know how to do something chances are someone has already done it and can tell you how.

I'd recommend [e30 zone] (http://www.e30zone.net/) for learning about the models.

As far as fixing them, a crowd favorite is the [Bentley Service Manual] (http://www.amazon.com/BMW-3-Service-Manual-1984-1990/dp/0837616476)
As fair warning, you need to understand that your e30 will break down and there will be periods of time where it's out of commission. You should have a secondary form of transportation. Even though some e30s can be obtained for cheap, the amount of work you might have to put into them can easily be worth double the vehicle. If you don't know how to work on cars, and don't know anyone who will help you work on it, then an e30 or other classic probably isn't the right genre of vehicle for you. However, if you have the willpower, it is a wonderful car to own and maintain.

I'd recommend:

1. buying a bentley e30 manual
   https://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Service-Manual-1984/dp/0837616476/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519082032&sr=8-1&keywords=bentley+e30+manual
   
   
   
2. Buying a decent mechanic tool set, I just bought a 450 piece one off sears for $250 but any good rated amazon one for $70-$120 should do for basic stuff
   
   
   
3. Register on a good e30 forum like r3vlimited.com and look at the diy guides and info there

I have a bridge to sell you for that interior 😲

These are things I have found especially useful. I've used these more than anything in my huge toolkit, but I'm glad I got it for other general wrenching.

• 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars and torque wrenches if you don't like to guess whether you're going to strip a fastener like me. I found the Tekton brand is solid for torque wrenches, here's the 1/2" 250ft-lb.
  
  
• 22mm deep well socket (steering wheel)
  
  
• 8, 10, 17mm sockets, deep and standard
  
  
• socket extensions (u-joint probably wouldn't hurt)
  
  
• Flare wrenches, if you're doing the brake lines
  
  
• penetrating oil (liquid wrench or the like)
  
  
• Zip ties
  
  
• Work lamp - I found this one at Menards and it is so useful. Magnetic/rechargeable/lasts for hours
  
  
• Jack/Jack stands: picked up a cheap, durable set of Torin stands with a jack. I was thinking about something from Harbor freight, but I don't want to cheap out with something that I'm relying on to keep the car up.
  
  
• cheap multimeter
  
  
• spare wire (for jumping your oil service light after a DIY change)
  

+1, and don't forget the Bentley Manual!! It is by far the best thing you can buy for DIY projects on these cars. I have one fore my E30 and my E28, and it has never failed me.

I would also add a variety of different sized flatheads and phillips screwdrivers. And I would recommend an actual caliper spreader for brake changes vs a C-Clamp, as it is much easier in my experience and they can be had for ~$10.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A
Been using this on my e30 for the past two years works great, relatively easy to install just follow the thread on r3v, the video from the reviews is also helpful

I did my VC recently. I believe its recommended to use the high temp engine paint. Rustoleum engine enamel works well. I like to top it off with some Duplicolor high temp clear coat.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248932-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B002JG01VQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=high+temp+engine+paint&qid=1555428236&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EDE163607-Ceramic-Clear-Engine/dp/B000GKEXW0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=high+temp+engine+paint&qid=1555428172&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Hardest part is bleeding the brakes. If you have a friend to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder then it is not hard.

Also make sure to have actual flare wrenches. A standard claw wrench will strip the brake line flare nuts.

OEM lines are fine, that is what I would buy, and they're truly DOT certified. They lasted 30+ years.

Where are you finding 36132225376 for $53?

15" et24 style 5's weren't available in US, except for the IX spec ones with the much higher offset. see the E30 wheel charts: https://bimmertips.com/oem-bmw-e30-wheel-options-specs/

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the 14" center cap that fits on the 4x100 wheel: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-STYL-5/dp/B002IVCFDY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042818&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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The 15" center cap that fits on the 4x100 wheel: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-1983/dp/B000UH6EDA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042777&s=gateway&sr=8-3

from other sources:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/36132225376.htm?pn=36-13-2-225-376-M9&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwf6DxcOy4wIVeCCtBh1n0Q-zEAQYBCABEgKIWfD_BwE

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hub-cap-d-equals-171mm-36132225376?ads_cmpid=1586640911&ads_adid=59893888775&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298302526031&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpKm0p8Oy4wIVhshkCh3klQmhEAQYASABEgLCvPD_BwE

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/center-cap-priced-each/36132225376/

Note they have different dimensions. the 15" center cap is part number 09.24.028, which is 6.73 inches (or 171mm). The 14" center cap is 151mm, or 6 inches.

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Unless you are looking at the 15" center cap for the 5 series, which does not fit, and has a different part number, even though it looks the same: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-1988/dp/B000NP9DS2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042818&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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Here's the 15" basketweave center cap part numbers that I've recorded:

Part number 0924028 for the center cap, it's 171mm (6.73 inches)

Part number 09.23.114 for the center twist hex cap

Part number 09.24.029 center logo for wheel OR 09.24.030. BMW p/n 36-13-2-225-190-m9 70mm diameter wheel center cap

Part number 09.23.113 a different version of the 15" center cap that seems to fit

Well I have a gorilla grip torx set that's also for tamper proof bolts and I bought mine from osh. Here's a link of what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12632-GorillaGrip-Fold-up-T6-T25/dp/B000E7ZLHQ

That’s a good call, thanks so much for letting me me know.

The PO filled me in on the details and can confirm that it starts with starter fluid.
Unfortunately, I broke the fuel sock off of the hanger currently in the car, so I would need one regardless.

Funnily enough I had already ordered a Bosch fuel pump.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZJB7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KMDAbXCPM5WE

I’m assuming these are compatible with each other, but some reviews state the fuel hanger pipes are too close to the sender unit, which is what I’m hoping someone else here would know.

Use SEM trim paint. It's extremely easy to use and gives an OEM matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

I gor it on [amazon](BMW Genuine Sun Shades for E30 3 Series (1983 - 1991) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NDPY3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KAb2Ab16588NS) :)

Not worked on an Eta. If they're similar to my engine then the head bolts are TTY, ie, single use. A Genuine replacement set can be had for $26.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-325i-M20_2.5L/Engine/Mechanical/ES18275/

As for places to buy parts:

Pelican Parts

BMA Parts

ECS Tuning

Turner Motorsport

FCP Euro

Autohaus AZ

Edit: just a note on the head bolts, don't by Victor Reinz. I did and found 2-3 were bent. Reading another website yesterday where someone found the same. ARP head studs are going to cost you about $220 for a set and (imo), aren't necessary unless you're going to strap a hair dryer to your engine (or intending to race your car). Also recommend Goetz brand for the head gasket (or Elring, or Genuine if you can afford it). +1 for buying the Bentley Service Manual

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-3-Service-Manual-1984-1990/dp/0837616476/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450656768&sr=8-1&keywords=bentley+e30+service+manual

Ford stereo removal tool could probably do it. It's two U shaped pieces of metal that should slot in the sides and disengage a latch, then you pull them and the radio comes out.

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https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Removal-Volkswagen-Pioneer-Kenwood/dp/B07CYG5V4Z

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https://bmweba.com/eba-01-29-9-782-748/

That book on the left.B

BMW 3-Series (E30) Performance Guide: 1982-1994 (Sa Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1934709867/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5CyybACSCWA3

Red Line RED60103 15 Ounce Complete Si-1 Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPI5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EU6PDb8WV4FQM

I used this to narrow down my issue to whether it was just carbon after all the work, turns out it was just carbon and my injectors being a little dirty