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Great questions, happy to answer.

Yes the case has a lid. It's this case:

https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-Flight-Controller-Pioneer-DDJ-RZ/dp/B01BG6M6VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=black+label+ns7&qid=1569259502&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Dust covers available at perfect circuit, Sweetwater, or straight from Elektron.

They are secured using 3 strips each of lock tite Scotch Velcro - the super strong stuff. The lid the. Has some foam attached which keeps everything tight while closed.

The wiring photos in the journal are the best I had.

All of the wires are tucked under the lift of the 2nd row of units. There is a back plate with three holes I mounted to pull the wires through when necessary.

It is completely wired and self contained, designed to be played directly.

Routing is:

Audio

Digitakt --> Digitone --> OT --> AR --> A4

Midi

A4 --> Digitone --> Digitakt --> OT --> AR

Given the time and expertise needed for a screen upgrade / replacement and the cost of a Model Sample, the easiest way I see to use an external screen would be to upgrade to a Digitakt and use Overbridge.

If that's not possible, probably something you've already considered or tried, but I'd go for something like this so that it easily gets out of the way when not needed.

It would be great if there was an iPad companion app for all Elektron boxes with real time updates using the same protocol as Overbridge, minus the audio. It would probably get more use than Overbridge as it is.

A fellow Redditor recommended these a while ago. Bought them, just perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BVMPF5F/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wow there is more to this than I thought, thank you for the detailed overview.
Thank you for the rec but I don't use a DAW or plugins.
After thinking about this, I realized I have this MIDI cable here though https://www.amazon.com/cable-Interface-midi-Converter-Laptop-keyboard/dp/B07FTJXFLT

This says it has a chip, so it would probably work if I used a female to female USB-A converter between the Akai and the MIDI converter cable, going in to the Digitone MIDI in, right?

Here are the details copied from my post on the elektronauts forum too for more specifics

Took some time to find the best solution, but I can run the Digitone, Digitakt, and Keystep from one battery pack too with the setup.

I did have to modify latches so I could remove the lid on the Magma case though. Here is what I used to make it all work

MAGMA Carry-Lite L DJ Case… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077C53DQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Reliable Hardware Company… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ18XIM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

POWERADD Pilot Pro 32000mAh Power… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN0KBXU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wow. You just use a 6v power supply on a 12v device? I got a 12v ripcord specifically for my octatrack but the amp output was too low... I ended up using this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DMG72J0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you're going to DIY it like I suggest, just watch out for mislabelled cables. I see it a lot. The "insert" cable which is the one coming out of the A4 needs to be tip/ring. Ignore the terminology and as long as the 2 ends are different colours, you'll be fine.
This:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817817&sr=8-38&keywords=Y+cables
Not this:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817771&sr=8-2&keywords=Y+cables

The second cable simply duplicates the input to both outputs.
After that, simply use mono cables to get into the MS-20.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKSF39O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to case

I've been using this one without any issues: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPCPAQS

Dammit, I found one right after I posted.

If anyone else it looking, here's one.

Isopropyl alcohol or ethanol 90% or higher with no weird additives. Kimwipes and ESD brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N472ISW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0K9ozb4AZ2861

Don't get the alcohol in the body of the pots or encoders. There may be some lubricant in there that the alcohol would break down.

Part of the electronic repair game is patience. You probably should have not powered it back on before cleaning it, but it might still be fixable. But be patient and wait till you have the right tools before you take the next step.