Top products from r/FTC

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

Outside rev through bore encoders and the signwise encoders ( https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Incremental-Encoder-Dc5-24v-Voltage/dp/B00UTIFCVA ), there aren't really many good cheap dead wheel encoders. However, keep in mind you don't really need dead wheels. Ignoring the fact that FTC auto can be accomplished using 1d motor encoders and some basic gyro logic, dead wheels only really allow you to move at max speed and still localize. I'd recommend looking at https://github.com/acmerobotics/road-runner/blob/master/doc/pdf/Mobile_Robot_Kinematics_for_FTC.pdf to see how most drivetrain encoders can be used to solve for a position on the field. The only downside to this method is that you can't move at max speed for mecanum. All the other drivetrain styles are completely fine. I guess the question you need to ask yourself is whether you really need to move at max speed in autonomous, which is only really advantageous for autonomous cycles and automating teleop. If you don't need that degree of precision, run the motor encoders. Teams like 5029 have had great success running just pure motor encoder odometry, having one of the cleanest autos at the OH state championships. Unless you need that extra 2 in/s, you won't feel any difference.

My son spent about $100+ on a good portable battery charger, this one https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Station-Generator-Flashlights-Emergency/dp/B076PR4TBZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3LN09LXMCHT0F&keywords=suaoki+portable+power+station&qid=1550857206&s=gateway&sprefix=suaoki&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Works great and lasts a long time, can plug in a lot of things. Pretty compact size, too, smaller than a car battery.

Okay, great! This powered hub is recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

To power it, "any" USB battery pack should work. You plug the power input side of the hub into your battery pack, then your phone connects to the "computer" side of the hub, and your Rev hub + camera plug into the other side of the USB hub. Like this: https://imgur.com/a/DiaFQcQ

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Setting all this aside, let's say your phone camera can only see two of the field minerals. Can you deduce the third?

I'm surprised that this configuration (using an unpowered USB hub) is working for you. Given that powered USB hubs are now legal on the robot for this specific reason, to be safe I'd recommend getting a hub like this one instead, along with any USB battery pack. Then you can power the hub from the USB battery pack to ensure the webcam can draw sufficient power (my understanding was that in your configuration with the phone alone powering the webcam this didn't reliably happen).

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

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Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

If we can convince the GDC to allow this then we'd be all set but I think we already know how that's going to go over, lol.

Don't do that, get a smart charger instead. I'll link the one I have in a little bit.


I have this one


and I am looking at getting this one


Both of these also have one extra really cool feature, you can power them with DC OR AC, this means, you could put a DC battery (i.e. car battery) on your cart, and recharge your robot batteries on the move.

The Andymark charger which you have linked is an Lead Acid type charger (car battery). Which is not be used with NiMH batteries which are the Tetrix batteries that you use. You should be looking for a multi bank NiMH smart (balance) charging station. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB6VF5Y?psc=1 Would work very well. Keep in mind with no matter what you get, you will need to put your own Anderson PowerPoles on the ends of the charging cables.

30FT 1.7MM BRAIDED KEVLAR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00746VAU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9b8pybPESAETJ

This works great for us. Our lift can go up in 6 seconds with the cap ball on it!

We use this for our linear lifts, but have not tested it for lifting a robot up entirely. If we had to lift a robot, like Res-Q year, we used Steel Cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011DPMZKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The S4T from US Digital is always a solid choice, but they're pricey, around $70 each
https://www.usdigital.com/products/encoders/incremental/shaft/S4T

We got Signwise encoders from Amazon for $17 each, they work fine
https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Incremental-Encoder-Dc5-24v-Voltage/dp/B00UTIFCVA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=optical+encoder&qid=1562699117&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The string should be strong and lightweight. I think we are using braided fishing wire. We used the 300lb 8 strand one from here: https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Spectra-Dyneema-Fishing-328Yards/dp/B011DPMZKI?th=1&psc=1

This has been working really well for us and it's only $8ish (with shipping) and extends up to 5 feet. The only thing you have to do is krimp or solder it.
https://www.amazon.com/Coiled-Cable-conductors-extends-5ft/dp/B012J4615M

It's been said that if you order parts from McMaster-Carr, they fly out your computer's CD drive.

I'd also look at your local Fastenal branch. And bring sponsorship material--some branches have given FIRST teams at least a price break if not freebies.

Or, if nothing else, this might be a good time to learn tapping your own parts to accept the 6-32 screws. (It's not like you'll never need a 6-32 thread in some obscure place ever again after this!)

Our team used DuPont Kevlar Braided line last year, after experiencing the issues with wire issues and para cord issues. Worked well for lifting the Center vortex ball in last years challenge, and we plan on using it again this year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00746VAU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coiled Cable with 3 conductors, extends to 5ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012J4615M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hESDCbGPDR2PP

zipties work, but then you invariably have to cut them every time you make a change ... and that happens often, no matter what you plan.

Best temporary is to use double-sided velcro strips.

Here's the premium stuff ...

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Protect-Management-Organizer-Prevent/dp/B07QLPR8G4/ref=sr_1_5

Tie them up, and then tie them off to something sturdy. People, wire and connector fatigue is real!

From a previous thread, someone had suggested these.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Station-Generator-Flashlights-Emergency/dp/B076PR4TBZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3LN09LXMCHT0F&keywords=suaoki+portable+power+station&qid=1550857206&s=gateway&sprefix=suaoki&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/System-S-extender-adapter-smartphone-devices/dp/B00XA6JG74

Is this the one you linked above?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/System-S-extender-adapter-smartphone-devices/dp/B00XA6JG74

I've seen this problem with the old "Rumblepad" gamepads - the ones with buttons 1-2-3-4 instead of a-b-x-y.

In the past we have used this, but we are currently using this.

or just buy this and crimp your own andersons. https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Smart-Universal-Charger-Battery/dp/B001AVUAVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425787405&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+charger+tenergy#Ask

So we switched all the cables out to the line u/LastSpark7 recommended and all has been going well for our team now. During our last meet, we didn't break a single line. We also noticed another team changed our their cable to steal cable. I like this idea, but I am not sure I want to go that far yet.

UHMWPE Braided Polyethylene Cord

One common issue is power delivery. If you can get a usb type a male to type a male (like this one) and a battery bank. You should be able to plug it into one of the slots on your hub, which would power the whole thing. I think it's legal, and even if it isn't, the controllers have stayed connected even after the battery bank is disconnected in our experience.

Edit: I am very bad at formatting links

Edit 2: Try this for your type a to micro b connection if that turns out be the problem.