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The trickery in those systems is not in their electrical wiring, but in that they're increasingly computerized. ABS and EFI in particular. With increasing model-specific complexity also comes increasing variety, so you're going to need a model-specific service manual.

If you're unfamiliar with 12V electrical systems in general, I'd probably start by reading the generic automotive electrical books. Haynes would probably suffice to get you up to speed, so that terminology used in the service manual makes more sense.

The main differences you'll find will be in charging systems and accessory wiring (both covered in a model-specific service manual), but pretty much everything else follows a similar (+)->Distribution/Fuse->Device->Ground circuit.

Where it gets complex is the ECU. I know a few bikes use a variation of OBD-II (Triumph comes to mind), but the rest are completely proprietary, requiring their own set of scantools and protocols. Pretty much all EFI and ABS diagnostic procedures will be done with one of these scantools (or at least pricey cable and software) if you want live or freeze frame data where supported.

The same trend continues in the automotive world as well. ABS and electronically-controlled transmissions were a big deal when they first hit the market (pre OBD-II), and now they're adding drive-by-wire and hybrid technologies to the mix. The only thing standard between manufacturers and even model years is engine management data (emissions). Airbags, ABS, SRS, and body electrical control data still require dealer scantools to access. They don't make their PIDs public knowledge, so these scantools are often priced out of reach of all but the big shops.

Finally, not that you're gonna botch anything, but electrical is only worth doing if it's done right, so take pride in your work! No half-ass duct tape and twist splice crap. I've had tons of vehicles come to me in sorry shape after being "fixed" with electrical tape and prayers, many of which have required a new harness ($$$, time, patience, sanity). Doing it right takes skill and patience, but it's worth the reward when your car/house/bike doesn't burn down in the course of normal operation :)

Sorry, that was long.

TL;DR: It's not much different from cars; computers are weird

You didn’t mention what bike you had, but if you have carburetors be sure to drain all the fuel lines and the carb float bowls also. Treat your first tank of gas with something like seafoam and hopefully you’ll be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

That piece of metal looks like it bolts under the chain cover and rides about .25 inches off the chain. It makes sure the chain can't get loose and skip a tooth on the front sprocket. It's also extra protection if the chain breaks, it might stop the chain from flinging forward and taking out the engine case. I may be wrong on identifying this part, that's just my best guess. It's not required to ride the bike, but it's nice to have.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0kdDaZ4EAyA/maxresdefault.jpg

That's a good example of the guide, this one wraps around almost 180 degrees of the front sprocket.

As for your oil leak, there is no camshaft seal. To get some terminology right, a seal is used to keep oil in between a solid case part and a spinning shaft. A gasket is used between 2 solid case parts that don't move. The camshaft is higher up on the motor and it doesn't have an external seal, so it can't be leaking. This could be your output shaft seal. It goes behind your front sprocket.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-yamaha-virago-250-ca-xv250w1c/o/m145022#sch533970

If it doesn't link directly, put in your bike model, select transmission, oem parts, transmission. Number 25. Youll need an impact gun or a big breaker bar to get the front sprocket off, and a seal puller to get the old one out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Youll also need a hammer and the proper size socket to use as a driver to put the new on in. Don't forget to grease it up before installing it, helps it go in easier.

If the leak isn't coming from behind the sprocket, post a few pictures of where it is coming from and send me a pm, I'll help ID what's leaking. The only other option on that side of the bike though is the shifter seal or the crankcase inspection port o-ring.

Edit: you don't need a breaker bar for your front sprocket. Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

I've never pulled a motor but that sounds much more work intensive. You can do the valve adjustment at the same time you remove the carbs. It's actually pretty simple and all you need is a this tool and 29.5mm valve shims (these you can probably get from a dealer or ebay).


In addition, here's a video of the process on the same bike. It's pretty straightforward.

I'm a huge fan of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H6PM32/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SY115

(Sorry, on mobile)
They've saved my as 4 or 5 times and the individual sizes are relatively cheap. Bought one at Lowes and I've been able to use it without it breaking or shearing on me. Would highly recommend so far.

If you ran the battery totally dry, it's hosed. You need a new one.

Now, I don't know the year of your bike, but a 2012 Ninja 650R can use the YUASA YTX12-BS

I used this selection tool

A quick check found it for ~$68 on Amazon

Revzilla recommends a slightly different model for the same 2012 650R for about $112, although I've found Amazon often has them cheaper. Don't trust Amazon to tell you if it'll fit correctly, however. They got it wrong for my Triumph but Revzilla and Yausa both agreed on a part number.

I'd put in your specific Year/Model into one of those two websites and order a dry-charged battery. You'll need to get a trickle charger that'll do 0.75A or 1A at most, and it'll probably take an overnight cycle for the initial charge before you can install it.

It's a good sign they tested it and some battery places like that do indeed set them up properly. I'd call and tell them your situation and see if they can test the battery they sold you.


I'd pick up a cheap meter. They can be found for less than $15 and have many uses. For most things, a basic cheap one is fine.



https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521913651&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dmm&psc=1


edit: Make sure you aren't turning the key too far counter-clockwise and leaving the tail light on (parking light) Not sure if that model has that built in to the key switch and it is not uncommon to have that happen)

That's very helpful thanks! I was thinking this one might work.

Thanks! You'd recommend just a single application of this stuff? Is there anywhere else in particular that ACF50 comes in handy, to justify buying a can?

Glad I could help! For future reference you should buy a Battery Tender and hook it up if the bike won't be used for extended periods of time (over 2-3 weeks).

I've removed clear coat with 3M pads, they come in a variety of grits and leave a nice surface finish if you're careful with them. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-6-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B000LPN3WQ

Don't bother going the acetone route. Get a two-part plastic epoxy similar to this one. It's cheap.

Just make sure to get a two-part epoxy that specifically says it's for plastic.

I've repaired many farings and side panels with this stuff. Some brands are better than others.

Clean it out and replace the gaskets, then add some inline fuel filters below the petcock since the mesh on the petcock is gone. Something like this is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/K-N-81-0221-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000E2AR70

Make sure you use a proper impact driver to get those screws out. A regular screwdriver will just strip the heads. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE/ This will be useful on other parts of the bike as well. Don't end up like this guy or countless others. https://www.reddit.com/r/DRZ400/comments/3lhxyp/fixing_my_countershaft_oil_seal_leak_and_stripped/

This battery ($65) yuasa or this battery ($41) Chrome pro? Regulator = $45. Stator $100+. Reg and stator combo = $105. So do I even need the stator? Thanks!

Remove the shift lever and then pull that entire side cover off that it attaches to.

Careful, those phillips head screws have a hardness somewhere between aluminum and old cheese. An impact driver (and the proper #3 JIS screwdriver bit) will make all the difference in the world. Once they are out, replace them with allen screws from your local hardware store.

Edit: If you don't have access to an impact, this is well worth $15. And will make the rest of the case disassembly easier.

The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance by Mark Zimmerman is a good place to start, although he tends to focus on older British bikes, if I recall.

Start with tons of lube(I like Kroil and LiquidWrench), then use an impact driver with the correct size bit.

You don't need jeweller's rouge at all. Very fine wet & dry paper, and/or polishing blocks. There used to be a product in the UK called Loyblox: grit impregnated rubber blocks, in different grades.

They're long gone (I still have mine, though!) and the modsern equivalent seems to be this:-

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garryson-Garryflex-Abrasive-Block-240grit/dp/B0001P08UG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Then finish off with metal polish like Solvol Autosol or any decent proprietary polish.

Don't bother trying to re-lacquer, either. If you ride the bike, the lacquer is going to come off anyway, sooner or later. Just keep the naked alloy polished.

You can use paint stripper to remove old lacquer, by the way.

For speedo, maybe get a trail tech kit. That dangle thingy is want spins your speedometer.

You dont need to change anything to use LED signals as long as you got voltage. Only recommend to install resisters to stop the fast flashing. Fast flashing will wear out the relay faster.

Get that steering neck checked out. If the bearings are done for, good chance seals are out too and years of water contamination sitting in the neck is asking for it to snap.

For brake cable, you might be able to get away with forcing lube into the sleeve. Get one of these:
Motion Pro 08-0182 Cable Luber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UbxWDbSMHQG1A

The loose jet could of been improperly torqued and vibration spit it out or the threads are worn. Id would double check the threads

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. Heat the top of the fork with a heat gun.

Buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Use it like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWLE_jjEKZI

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Will that seal puller work with the transmission countershaft still in place?

>>Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

The OP will have to remove 2 small bolts and the sprocket retainer bolted to the countershaft sprocket
to get it off.

i would probably get a carb sync tool and go from there. are the rpms all over the place too?
edit: and how did you tune the carbs?

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=jb+weld+plasticweld&qid=1564790287&s=gateway&sprefix=jb+weld+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I used this guy here.

I have this book and it seems to be about what you're asking for. It covers motorcycles very broadly and is full color. Instead of learning the steps to change something on a specific bike it covers the process and tools you use and teaches you how to do it.

These:

https://smile.amazon.com/ARES-70005-Professional-Ratcheting-Weather-Proof/dp/B017JX8W2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1538277875&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ratcheting+crimping+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=315gd2LzbfL&ref=plSrch

And these:

https://smile.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Assorted-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B01F07UMNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278026&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shrink+bullet+connector&psc=1

And this:


https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278142&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dielectric+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&ref=plSrch

SAE connector. I use it to charge my bike or to charge my external battery so I can then charge my other, more expensive, devices.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421879389&sr=8-1&keywords=sae+usb

If you can get your hands on some brown 3M Scotch-Brite (the pads, not discs), it'll be less hard on the metal than the steel wool the next time around.