Top products from r/FlashForge

it is remarkable easy to add an easy on glass bed on that model. no clips to bump into..

there us a dual fan duct to fix that deficiency so both extruders get air. I will send you links for the glass bed clips and the duct when I get to my PC.

https://i.imgur.com/9tX2dag.jpg

this is the dreamer but the Pro has the same bed configuration

you are getting a great printer. their slicer (flashprint) has been updated (use expert mode) and works well. I have simplify3d but prefer flashprint.

when you buy a glass bed, dont use cheap glass. get a 20 dollar borosilicate one. especially if you are a bleeder. cheap glass is not a good idea.

I like their blue buildtak and keep spare on hand. both the glass and the blue surface have their advantages.

• Remove the right extruder
  
  
• Add a offset spacer to the right side of the left extruder - extruder will crash if you don't do this as it can't reach the limit switch before the carriage hits the bracket
  
  
• Add the Dreamer fan or similar to the left side - optional, you just need cooling
  
  
• get a single extruder carriage. I got mine from from Raffle.ch who is no longer in business. Just search single extruder carriage for makerbot replicator 2x or something to that and tons will come up. I'd recommend aluminum, but only because I didn't trust the plastic options.
  
  
• Longer X belt - GT2 I believe, amazon has tons of options
  
  
• 8x12 borocilicate plate from Mcmaster PN : 8476K84
  
  
• Silicone Thermal Pad - This distributes the heat a bit better since you'll have a good amount of overhang. amazon
  
  
• Kapton tape - Place a layer sticky side down on the steel/ceramic bp, Make sure it's nice and flat, then stick the silicone pad to the bottom of the Glass BP, then stick that to the kapton. It won't move after that but it can be removed if needed. (Don't ask, it just works rediculously well)
  
  
• Glass BP offset https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:452367
  
  
• and then the tough part, you have to tweak the slicer settings to recognize that it has a larger BP. I'd shoot you my Simplified 3D settings but I'm not at home. It's not too complicated but I recall having a hard time with it. Flashforges uses the center of the BP as 0 and not the front left corner like repraps. So you'll have to do a little thinking here. Also, the tool head has an offset, I don't recall if the right extruder is 0 or -XXmm but you'll have to take that into account too.
  
  
• Last thing you'll need is to cut your heatsink in half, the big aluminum bar that the hot ends fit in. make sure you cut it such that you have the two holes for the strain relief screws still intact, you'll need these for the offset spacer.

No problem! A clarification to what u/Seppi449 said; I'm assuming they're actually talking about a hardened steel nozzle. This will allow the students to print with exotic filaments (wood fill, metal fill, glow in the dark, etc) without it damaging the soft brass nozzle. This upgrade is pretty cheap, and it will prevent constant replacements.

I personally would not recommend upgrading to an all metal hotend assembly. The uses for that are pretty small and they can cause a lot more issues for novice users, which I'm guessing many of the students are. When you get a new nozzle, make sure it doesn't specify it's for an all metal hotend. They are different and are not compatible.

You probably ought to also grab a bit of 2mm ID x 4mm OD teflon tubing. You need to replace the little bit of teflon tubing inside the hot end assembly periodically to help prevent jams and keep your printing smooth. The replacement piece is only about 1" long, so a roll like that will last forever. When you replace the existing tube, you want to make sure to keep the length as close to the original as possible, and keep your cuts 90º.

I hope this helps!

I bought this one: Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend I don't know much about it compared to others but it was pretty easy to install and works well.

I used this filament in my Creator Pro, and it worked like a charm. Smelled delightful while printing, too!

I don't recall any of the Finders I've had at the makerspaces I run not allowing prints because of bed leveling issues. In fact, I often will adjust the bed while prints are running if I am not happy with what the auto-leveling software settled on. Usually, it is because the bed needs to be backed away from the nozzle a little bit.

If you want to get real precise with it, I use a dial indictator on my flashforge creator pro that mounts on the X-Axis rods with a 3D printed holder allowing you to level the bed until the dial indictator shows all points on the bed are level. I'm not sure if there is already a model for the finder that exists for this purpose. It'd be pretty easy to make.

Extruder fan? If it's anything like the creator pro, I used this 24v fan.

The bulk bowden ptfe tube is what you need. I bought it from Amazon for my Creator Pro. It seems the ones I purchased precut were a little short so this my best solution.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUPV90M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gluestick. It works both to keep it to the bed AND to create a bit of seperation to pull it off.

Get a cake frosting spatula, aka print removal tool. I have this (https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Print-Removal-5-inch/dp/B01DTLWVSU) but this is super popular as well (https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-BT30185-Spatula/dp/B017XGEDOM/)

For that one you're having problems with now, heat the bed up to 90 let it sit for 5 min or so and you should be able to pry it off.

I'm not sure if the adventurer is the same type or not, but when my Creator Pro wires go out, I just use these on Amazon and chop off the one end, and splice on my connector piece to the wire. Way cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/UEETEK-Bipolar-Stepper-Printers-Machines/dp/B07175F6P7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549563667&sr=8-3&keywords=stepper+cable

This is way cheaper and works as well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VE6OJM4/ref=psdcmw_10967101_t1_B006XIPER2

Sadly it's a blower fan like This which runs at 12v. I'll find it's info when I'm back home.

Some of the best advice I received was to simply use a piece of paper and level your bed only at the leveling screws.

After you are close print one of these.
depth dial holder doohickey

And buy one of these to go into it.
dial indicator

After that you can throw away that annoying piece of paper.

The instructions say to press down the black ring, and while doing that to pull up on the tube. In practice, once you remove the tube, it may not hold properly anymore. You probably want to pick up a pack of PC4-M6 replacements:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NANKRTD/

Creker 3D Printer Filament Holder Extra Smooth 3D Filament Spool Holder with Bearing New Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJ9LUO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q6pWDb5SSJY7X

here is the mount
and here is the sensor.

Not sure how necessary they are but I use 4 of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P00KIJI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, use a z shim:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440022

My glass is 1/4 inch thick.