Top products from r/Gameboy

Well to replace the battery you'll need to open the cart, carefully desolder the old battery, and solder in the new one. It's fairly straightforward and easy, but you can go look up a youtube video for a walkthrough. In theory you can tape in a new untabbed one in, but going with the original design/intention is preferable and won't come loose and lose your save if done properly. However, you'll need the following:

• special driver/bit to open the cartridge (can also use fine tipped pliers to grip the screw and put it in/take it out, but you may scratch up the top of the screw)
  
• replacement lithium coin cell battery with solder tabs (probably a CR2025)
  
• a soldering iron or station
  
• solder, probably 60/40 Sn-Pb as mentioned earlier
  
  optional:
  
• solder wick (copper braid) for removing old solder, it makes putting the new battery in a little easier if you can work with new solder and a cleaner point to solder to
  
  I got my batteries and screwdriver from a online store that sells gameboy stuff:
  https://www.mortoffgames.com/cr2025-coin-cell-battery-with-tabs-panasonic-
  https://www.mortoffgames.com/gameboy-color/repair-and-replacement-parts35/game-repair-parts39/38mm-security-screw-driver
  
  From Amazon:
  https://www.amazon.com/Steel-3-8mm-Screwdriver-Security-Nintendo/dp/B000F8GWH2/ (3.8mm security bit)
  https://www.amazon.com/Super-Nintendo-Genesis-Master-System-Advance/dp/B00ES2B0CI/ (CR2025 w/solder tabs)
  https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC
  https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Solderding-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6/
  ^ lots of options, this is close to what I use --- 60/40 Sn-Pb, rosin core, 0.6mm diameter -- it don't think it's that much solder for the price, but I probably paid at least twice that at least and I've done lots of stuff and I still have way more than I needed. You can probably use a smaller diameter for this specific job, but that size is easy to hold.
  
  It seems like a lot of money, but you got a pretty good deal on the unit and game. They can go for $20-30 and $12-18 respectively. Also, the screwdriver/bit and soldering iron are one-time investments in being able to do it again later and also do other soldering work.
  
  If you don't mind making separate purchases the other source I mentioned has way better battery prices and their screwdriver is a bit cheaper and has a handle, I have one myself and it works fine. In general though I recommend going for the best quality one just so you don't have cheap, crappy tools. Sometimes that means you pay a little one more, and sometimes pricing is about the same.
  
  
  

Some thoughts on the IPS:

• Install:
  
  • Toughest part is attaching the ribbon cable back to the AGS board. I found it was shorter than the stock ribbon cable.
    
  • Don't be scared to solder. Bought a $15 soldering iron off Amazon and practiced a bit on other stuff. Very easy to solder the wire to the board for brightness control, just need to be precise.
    
  • I bought my case from Retro Modding and chose to do the case modification myself with my dremel tool. Easy as well.
    
• IPS:
  
  • At first it was weird not having the pixelated look of the AGS-101 but, after seeing the two next to each other, I'm starting to love the pixel density of the IPS.
    
  • If you solder, you'll have 6 brightness options. Levels 1 and 3 are comparable to the AGS-101 and its two brightness options. This means the IPS is quite brighter at its highest setting, but also darker for sessions at night with no lights on. Great versatility.
    
  • I have experienced zero screen tearing as I received the new ribbon cable. That should not be a concern anymore.
    
    Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.
    
    Hope this helps!

> It is unusable with the included rechargeable battery mod, I have tried it on 2 separate GBC motherboards, one with the battery mod and one without. it lasts a bit longer on regular AA's but you can tell something is off.

Don't bother with the "rechargeable battery" mod. Rechargeable AA batteries have been commonly available since the 1980's, and really good ones, superior to zinc air and alkaline disposable AA batteries, have been available for over a decade. I'm not sure what's wrong with your flickering power LED, but we can start by getting rid of the crappy "rechargeable battery" and getting you some decent AA batteries instead. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer.

Hey! Glad to help. This Is the exact soldering iron I use. Extremely effective, I keep it at a 3 at all times, seems to be a legit temperature for everything Gameboy related.

The Solder I use works really well, rarely sticks to the soldering tip (like many other ones I've tried) and seems to be the most consistent. It's also supported by HHL - so you know it's solid!

Hope that helps.

1. Soldering for the 101 mod is super simple, got it right on first try when it was my first time soldering.
   
   
2. Repro screen in my unit works great, some people swear by the originals but I can't stomach the idea of ripping apart a perfectly good SP. Bought mine here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L42ZIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0y-AbNPMV7S0
   
   
3. Previous experience shouldn't be too much of an issue, GBA internals are very simple and this mod is a fairly good first project in my opinion.

Well, I really want to say that it's not worth it if you don't have a soldering iron, but having an iron opens you up to modding. I personally would buy this iron to start Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_a-b5wbP6YPKQS

It's a decent iron and then you can buy a DMG and put in a bivert mod! Also, don't forget to tin your tip or else it slowly corrodes when the iron is hot. These are the starter irons in the electronics shop at my school, a technical high shool. And if you get bored you can always poke holes in the power supply with the hot iron!/s If you have a lot of money then buy the iron I have, a Weller WES51. Soldering irons can also fix jewelry and other metal, so it's not a one time use purchase. And if you get burnt you don't even feel it, I don't think I have nerves in my right index finger anymore!

Replacing the batteries is very easy. They go for $7 for 10 on eBay just search Gameboy save battery. Only Pokemon RSE need them for GBA games because of their clocks. They use CR1616 batteries. No other GBA games need batteries AFAIK. Most original or color game needs them for saves, however. They use CR2032 batteries. It's easy, just make sure that the positive and negative are correct. Positive side is shiny with writing on the battery and the negative is textured. Earlier GB games such as Kirby's dreamland, Tetris, Pinball, etc require no save battery, as they didn't save!

99% sure those are authentic. Judging by the wear on the labels, the color of the silver's plastic, the security screw type and placement are correct, and the quality of plastic looks good.

This should help you see it. A comparison of reals vs fakes for both pokemon gold and silver.

Front sides.
Back sides.

If you want to check games you buy, and if only just for the fun of opening up Nintendo products, these tools are a pretty good investment. You'll notice my fake cartridges had Y screws where as the real ones have 3.8 mm security screws. You can pick up Y1/Y0/Y00 tri wing screwdriver set at lowes/walmarts, but you probably won't be able to find the security bits. You'll notice in one of my previous comments, fakes always have black globs inside of them, typically much less pcb, and they have different button cell containers to name a few. Hope that helps!

edit: also wanted to add that you got a steal on those. Nice find :)

It's a fairly simple process. Just open the game, desolder the old battery, solder the new one, and close the game.

Make sure the new battery is the same type as the old one; a CR2032 probably won't fit in a game that uses a CR1616. Make sure the batteries you order have tabs. It's generally not a good idea to solder directly to batteries, so the tabs make it much easier to mount. As for the batteries themselves, just find an eBay seller with good feedback and you should be fine.

Take your time and be careful, and you should be able to do it just fine. If you're worried you'll mess it up, watch some soldering how-to videos and practice on some old junk board before you move on to a Gameboy game. If you don't already have a soldering iron, the Weller WLC100 is a great, inexpensive, variable-temperature soldering iron that is frequently recommended here. I have it and it works perfectly. 60/40 rosin-core leaded solder should be fine for this; it's what I've used for my cart battery replacements and I've had no issues with it.

I'm the OP of the discussion /u/sharpfork linked you to. I hope you read this before buying a SuperCard from anybody online. The company stopped producing these some years ago, and as a result TONS of fakes/clones flooded the market. In some cases, these clones worked pretty well. However, nothing beats the original.

The differences between even the best clones and the original cartridges has shown over the years that the originals hold up better. There is an Amazon seller who has some of the originals left. This is where mine came from:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0085H4YDO/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

I don't mean to divert attention/potential buyers away from BennVenn and what he does for this community, but alternatively to the Mega Memory Card (which btw, sometimes saves are randomly deleted entirely), you can use a Monster Brain for pretty much the same effect. Backs up game saves permanently but it can also edit/hack Pokemon games right on the thing itself, and has the ability to colorize older Gameboy games to your liking. Plus, it's much cheaper than any price I've found a Mega Memory Card for.

Again, I don't mean to insult BennVenn nor hurt his business, just providing another product that does essentially the same effect as a Mega Memory Card.

Hello again! Here was my shopping list (I am sure that there are better!) and I think that this was everything that I had in front of me when working:

For the Gameboy:

- screen and glass (and this came with screwdrivers but I bought others because it doesn't say that it does), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Levels-High-Light-V2-IPS-Backlight-LCD-Screen-Kit-For-Game-Boy-Advance-GBA/312745721491?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[one regret = I should have bought a funny playing screen to support the person that came up with this mod rather than from China directly]

- screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- black silicone buttons (haven't arrived yet so I cleaned my original ones with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol for now), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Game-Boy-GBA-Advance-Button-Silicone-Rubber-D-Pad-Conductive-AB-Select-Start/312608709452?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=611338502576&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

- black button set, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Button-set-for-Game-Boy-Advance-Nintendo-GBA-custom-mod-AGB-001-Black-ZedLabz/371907958966?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


From this company I bought the following (but their website is down for maintenance now): www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/

- case that was pre-cut for a new IPS display (it is central in the glass screen now): Mandarin Shell For Nintendo Game Boy Advance

- 3D printed mount (useful but the screen came with two bits of plastic that would have done the job (see the video that I linked 'person that filmed the whole process')

- Model Sticker For Nintendo Game Boy Advance (just so it doesn't look empty on the back)

​

For soldering:

- solder, https://www.amazon.com/EL60-40-25-Electronic-Solder-Resin/dp/B0001P171K

- wires, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F8PO8OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cleaning connections:

- Isopropyl alcohol

- Cotton wool buds (Q-tips?)

PMC05228 - Thermal Calculator Paper Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DBMGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oM8KwbX2D0WNG

This is what I recently bought for mine. The rolls are shorter than the official stuff and don't have the adhesive backing but the width is perfect and works great in the GB printer

I haven't tested this one myself but it seems like this is some good bang for your buck:

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M

I bought the soldering iron and the replacable tips on ebay, but they're coming from China so it'll be a while before I can vouch for them hope this helps a but.

I'd recommend the GPA SP. Try to get the backlit 101 model, but if the price is a limitation, the 001 frontlit model isn't too bad. As others have said, the SP will give you access to way more games, and having a lit screen is nearly a necessity for me nowadays. As for the form factor, you can always get a grip for it that helps improve the ergonomics.
Here's the one I have, and I really like it (you can probably get it cheaper on eBay): https://www.amazon.com/Gameboy-Advance-Handy-Dual-Grip-Easier/dp/B002R9OXS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498231466&sr=8-1&keywords=gba+sp+grip

I'm not sure about that one, but I can say don't buy this one from Circuit Specialists. It's what I've been using for years for the odd project here and there and it was always frustrating. I don't have enough experience to have known why it was so difficult, but I finally decided I was due for an upgrade and I got this Hakko soldering station, and the difference is amazing. Mainly, it gets hot and stays consistently hot, which it turns out makes things much easier. Another big difference is the tip, which perhaps would have been an easy upgrade to my old iron if not for the inconsistent heat. But I notice that the one you linked has a sharp slender tip, and I've learned that the chisel shaped tip that came with the Hakko is much better for heat transfer since you can apply more of the tip's surface area.

I've bought through Ebay, bc robotics, aliexpress, banggood etc...

Most small parts like tactile buttons, power switch, volume wheels, rubber membranes, gameboy shells, and buttons were bought from ebay/aliexpress. Long shipping times but cheap prices.

I also bought the custom button PCBs from eBay. Although I did get one all in one board from Helder at sudomod.com
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232363938160

I bought my power boosts from banggood for a few dollars (works the same as adafruits but much cheaper)
https://m.banggood.com/37V-Liion-Battery-Mini-USB-To-USB-A-Power-Apply-Module-p-928948.html?p=9B1915347037201311DI

I bought 1 screen from Alibaba and two from geatbest. I prefer the gearbest screens. You can also find some 23$ screens on Amazon with prime shipping too. Which apparently will work.
http://m.gearbest.com/development-boards/pp_29447.html

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nkSqzb14CJP3C

As for the batteries, amplifier, speakers, etc...i bought from BC robotics online store. You can get adafruit parts from them. Still expensive, but shipping isnt bad if you are buying lots. Plus they have a 5$ shipping promo on now. you can also find cheaper batteries on ebay, or like I did in one build i used a 9$ galaxy note 3 battery.

http://www.bc-robotics.com/products/

I've bought my pi zero's from the pi hut. They seem to have them in stock often and cost about 20 CAD after shipping and conversion:

https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-w?variant=30332705425
(Seems they are sold out now)

That's all I can think of now. Let me know if you have any questions. Also browse through the sudomod.com forums or wiki for tons of info.

Eneloop is my favorite.

The standard version is cheap and performs very well (2000mah) and widely available at most stores

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU


The XX or pro version is expensive and only last 500 charges but hold 25% more power (2500mah) which will mean an additional couple of hours

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17KHCA4A-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSL1O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465615985&sr=8-3&keywords=eneloop+xx

I prefer the pro version if you can get it cheap since 500 charge cycles will last you atleast 2 years of use on a portable like the gameboy. Found them on sale at my local camera store for $20 during the holidays

while I use the regular version on devices that gets charged daily like my gaming mouse

You could always go third-party, just make sure you check reviews to make sure whatever battery you get isn't going to blow up or just work like ass.

Always gotta rely on the peeps that purchased before you, lol. They're good people!

edit: This one on amazon seems to have quite the reputation!

Thanks for the help! Other than my 3DS, I've never heard any clicks coming from any of my systems, aside from the DS I mentioned in my post. So I just wanted to be sure!

Otherwise, do you have any recommended brands for a battery? From what I'm seeing on Amazon, some have mixed reviews, and others have generally positive reviews, such as this one. I don't seem to have the right size screwdriver to check the battery, and something like this comes with one, but I worry about getting a bad battery. From some reddit posts I found, users were saying DS batteries could also be used, but I don't want to damage the system at all somehow.

Thanks again for your help!

From Amazon (US)- Drive Logic DL-64-BK Portable EVA Hard Drive Carrying Case Pouch, Black

The case is a perfect fit for the DMG - and it will fit headphones inside, and an extra game on the outside, or a link cable.

If this is really just a matter of handling the system, there are clip on grips that greatly improve the ergonomics for us big handed folk.
I think this is the one I have: Gameboy Advance Sp Handy Dual Grip for Easier Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R9OXS2

Battery could still be good - and if it is, he can back up his original save with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card/dp/B00002R108

I keep my GBC, MGB, AGS, and AGB units in these.

The AGB units are a little snug, and the AGS units obviously have some wiggle room, however there is a strap inside that will hold it steady. GBC and MGB units fit perfectly in them. Combined with these it makes what I believe to be the ultimate storage/transportation method for those units. Put it in the bag and then put it in the case.

If you want I can take pictures for you later when I get home.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_byt8AbEWCG7MM

I bought this one about a year and half ago and it's been great to me. Just make sure you get a fine point tip for it.

It really depends on the battery you replace it with.

I think the standard cr2016/cr1620's should give you around 10 years, the larger cr 2032's will give you like 15 or so.

These are really rough estimates, I don't remember the source, they may be a bit off.

But no matter the size, as long as you use a good quality replacement they should last you quite some time, IF you want non-battery-backed backups to keep the pokemon longer, just pick up this

You can make multiple backups of your save file on non-volatile memory, and it's only around $10-$15

I got my kit on Amazon I think the value for it is really good Nintendo Gameboy Advance GBA Backlit AGS-101 Upgrade Modify Tool kit Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L42ZIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEp6BbGY095XC

Yes, here is the full parts list:

Parts List:

Pi Model B: http://www.microcenter.com/product/414588/Raspberry_Pi_Model_B

LCD: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Control PCB: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb

3W Audio Amplifier: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221352271996?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Retropie (Emulation): http://blog.petrockblock.com/retropie/

Retrogame Program (mappion GPIO to keys): https://learn.adafruit.com/retro-gaming-with-raspberry-pi/buttons

I'm planning on doing a writeup on what was done if you are interested.

The cheapest option, without actually backing up, would probably be a Monster Brain ($13 on Amazon). You can use it to hold your save, change the battery, and then immediately restore the save - or do the even cheaper method of replacing it while the game is on. After that, I'd recommend BennVenn's Joey.

I made a guide with all sorts of devices/methods with links and videos included right here, but the cheapest options were already mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC

This is the cheapest one I can recommend, otherwise any hakko is good

Yup! This is what you're looking for, but don't pay that much for one. Check eBay and see if you can get a better price.

http://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card-Game-Boy-Color/dp/B00002R108/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393822299&sr=8-1&keywords=gameboy+mega+memory+card

This toolkit would have everything you would ever need...including triwing and Gamebit screw driver bits.


Thisa popular soldering iron. I use it myself and it hasn’t let me down. Just get some wire, flux, and solder and you’re set.

Edit: fixed the link lol

I use this one and I love it. It has temperature control in the form of a dial (1-5, not degrees) and the iron itself plugs into the base, so if it breaks or something, it is replaceable.

Gameboy Advance Sp Handy Dual Grip for Easier Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R9OXS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ya.Wzb47NVWAS

This is the one I use. Works perfectly (no sticker though)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DBMGL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this on amazon and it has been great
Game Boy Advance SP Replacement Battery Pack for GBA SP (packaging may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ1NS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uKCFDbAACRMVE

Hey friend.

You can always use a nail polish rack such as this one

Cq acrylic 72 Bottles of 5 Layers Nail Polish Rack-Clear Nail Polish Display,Just Stand on the Table or Desk,16.4x7.8x7.5 inch,Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z.4bBbP5K2TAJ

To display your loose Gameboy/GBC cartridges. And check out Rose colored gaming for your handheld devices. They have individual stands for all the handhelds that are pretty sturdy and make your GBs/GBC/GBA stand upright for display.

An option for your GBA games would be using DS cases to store them and use the artwork available at the cover project.net. Then you'll be able to store them and have them on display.

Not sure what you payed for it. But you can grab used ones on ebay for about 20 bucks and scavenge for parts. If like me you are doing mods it is good to have spare parts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00004ZDHL/ref=sr_1_6_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1473120012&sr=8-6&keywords=game+boy+pocket+screen

The 2550 mAh ones are the "pro", and have higher capacity but apparently fewer charge cycles. Up to you.

These are the ones I got and they've been good for me. I use them in my IPS GBA and my Wavebird.

I bought this one on amazon. It had a lot of reviews from gameboy collectors trying to find paper for their printers too, haha.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DBMGL?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I got this--https://www.amazon.com/PMC05228-Thermal-Calculator-Paper-Rolls/dp/B0000DBMGL. I just put it in and works perfect.

My goodness, I apologise everyone for the spam. I made my post and it didn't show up in my history and I couldn't find it on the subreddit so I figured it didn't post, it seems like they all had gotten delayed or something. Regardless here is the link!

Drive Logic DL-64-BK Portable EVA Hard Drive Carrying Case Pouch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VVH8Y6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I use a Pro's Kit 9400 TR1 (AKA Eclipse Tri-wing Driver #0). Found it at a local electronics store and have been using it for years. The handle is comfortable and I've not ran across a tri-wing screw I couldn't remove with it.

Does something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Jerome-Russell-Bblonde-Cream-Peroxide/dp/B001RYQITU/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1539824502&sr=8-2&keywords=cream+peroxide+12%25

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001RYQITU?redirect=true&ref_=ya_st_dp_summary - This is the one I went with as it's a bit stronger.

Just in case anyone else has this issue, the solution is get a different screwdriver. I got this one

Something like this or a retron would work. https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card/dp/B00002R108

They sell things like this: Memory Card. Also BennVenns Joey Bags.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o2QwzbGGCK046

Also had to get a fine tip from HHL

> Weller WD1

Seriously? If you're going to be dropping $400+ on a soldering station, then you buy some quality HW. JBC > Weller in precision soldering equipment.

OP is looking for something like a TS-100, or a FX-888

OP can buy cheaper if they're not planning to get into the hobby, but I'd suggest investing in a station with adjustable heat as a minimum.

I just got mine yesterday... $10 aint bad

Monster Brain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000056HGE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X308wbHV5BG9A

[It's the one sold by Amazon Warehouse Deals.](Game Boy Pocket - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004ZDHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O.WRybKKATYVH)

Amazon

Cq acrylic 72 Bottles of 5 Layers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just pick up some of these cases on Amazon.

I got this kit from Amazon for less than $18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pB3BzbBXT1D6K

I personally use these. Keep an eye out for stock: PMC05228 - Thermal Calculator Paper Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DBMGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o71GAbHWX35JY

Be careful of the official Nintendo printer paper. These have already expired.

A little different. I checked my Amazon and it was this one.
AmazonBasics External Hard Drive Case https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F5CKWBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnM1AbFQ9NMMV

Nintendo Gameboy Advance GBA Backlit AGS-101 Upgrade Modify Tool kit Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L42ZIOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CkkKzbYD90AN0
It came with a replacement shell, new speaker, screwdrivers, etc.

Cq acrylic 72 Bottles of 5 Layers Nail Polish Rack-Clear Nail Polish Display,Just Stand on The Table or Desk,16.4x7.8x7.5 inch,Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K-fIDb5TVVY77

Do you know if this is a good one? Cheap enough and I have a micro sd card. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085H4YDO/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A1RHG6U7D062GD

check this out http://www.amazon.com/MEGA-MEMORY-CARD-Game-Boy-Color/dp/B00002R108

review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKJsnpqzdE4

or you can built your own reader/writer :D http://www.reinerziegler.de/readplus.htm#Home%20made%20programming%20systems

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Ys8CbJZJQEN8

Here's a link to Amazon but some of the sellers are asking for high prices. Try searching eBay.

You had to buy it separately: https://www.amazon.com/Game-Boy-Advance-AC-Adapter-Set/dp/B00005B8G0

I recently ordered this and it works:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ1NS8/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_Taj7CbX86VVFM

I found a full modding kit with a pre-cut GBA housing on amazon for 58usd and it included screws, screwdrivers, tape, and the pin adapter Shipping is long af but still a decent price