(Part 2) Top products from r/GoRVing

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We found 43 product mentions on r/GoRVing. We ranked the 692 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/GoRVing:

u/eaglejm · 1 pointr/GoRVing

The panel output more like 5.5 amps /hour per 100 watt panel that's what my HQSTs do. PWM Is fine for a small solar setup better gain would be to get a 3rd panel than the extra expense of mppt. Something with a lcd to display input and output in amps is nice like HQST 30 Amp PWM Smart Solar Charge Controller with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB3OPKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.XETybK31ADKN

u/ronin__9 · 1 pointr/GoRVing

My top five purchases for the travel trailer beyond the basic requirements.

  1. [Harbor freight trailer tool box] (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html) mounted on the rear bumper for campfire tools

  2. [Camco black tank flush] (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40126-Tornado-Rotary-Rinser/dp/B000BUU5TU/)


  3. [Makita 18 volt leaf blower] (https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DUB183Z-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Blower/dp/B00QDTGFCY) and drill.
    The leaf blower is great for cleaning up around camp and also helping feed the fire.
    The drill is useful for driving down the stabilizers and an repair tool.


  4. [BAL single tire chock] (https://www.amazon.com/BAL-Single-R-V-Products-Group/dp/B01LW2F1G6/)
    Super awesome since it clamps the tire it eliminates all the tire wiggle.

  5. Adding a truck stereo with backup camera.
    This ended all the issues with hitching the trailer. I basically do it on my own now only having to get out and look maybe once.

u/vskid · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I put these LEDs in my fifth wheel. Cool white,
Warm white

They're 12-28v, some reviews reported issues with using the 12v version from that brand in RVs. The warm white its kinda yellow like the stock incandescents while the cool white looks like a florescent light. Most of my fixtures use two bulbs, so I put one of each in them for a good mix of color temperature. They don't put out quite as much light as the incandescents, but it's still enough and the power usage and heat are reduced a ton. I got a 10 pack of each and they're all working great after 6+ months of daily use.

u/Yellow_Midnight_Golf · 4 pointsr/GoRVing

The most efficient option is to get a DC to DC converter that takes the 12V DC from your vehicle and converts it to the DC voltage for the laptop. Something like this. 12V to 19V. This will take a little research to get one that matches your laptop.

The easier, but much less efficient method is to plug a power inverter into your cigarette lighter socket to take 12 V, convert it to 120 V AC, then plug your laptop power supply into this to make the DC power your laptop requires. Because of the roundabout way this gets you the power you need, it will use up the vehicle battery faster. However, it does get you 120 V that you could use for other things.

In both cases, make sure the converter can supply sufficient current (amps) or power (watts) as your laptop requires.

u/jason_sos · 1 pointr/GoRVing

> a: Will the AC unit run off off just the batteries?

No, but the heat will.

> b: What size of generator would be best for the above scenario? I see a lot of conflicting info on this?
The description for the Yamaha 2400 says it will run a 13500 AC however other info I found said you need at least 3000W of starting power (vs the 2400 starting of the Yamaha linked) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-EF2400iSHC-Starting-Portable-Inverter/dp/B00AYUWDZG

I have a 4000W Powerhouse Inverter generator, and it would stall out starting the generator, until I installed an Easy Start from MicroAir. Now, it never does. I would recommend getting the Easy Start and then you should have no problem with that Yamaha.

> c: The Nash 25c has a generator enclosure that's vented and plumbed for propane, would it be dumb to not get a propane genny (or even gas) that fits in the enclosure as that sounds nice and it's locked up when in use (may go skiing or dirtbiking and leave the trailer while the generator runs and fills up the batteries).

I have no experience with this, so I will have to let others answer.

> d: Any idea how long it would take to fill the batteries (sorry don't have specifics no the "RV" batteries that are being included but) a general idea would great. Like 5-8 hours or just a hour or two?

Depending on size, it will probably take a couple of hours to charge. TBH though, my batteries last a long time (I have two deep cycle batteries) when just using them for lighting and incidental other things.

u/Oderdigg · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Excellent choice. You could have saved money and gone with another product but you did it properly. :D

Here are some items I have that I love using;

LevelMate Pro

Progressive Industries Surge Protector

Andersen Jack Blocks

I also want to purchase the Anderson Leveling kit as I have a standard leveling kit and it sucks.

Any first time plans? RV site near home or living in the backyard?

u/wintercast · 1 pointr/GoRVing

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/



u/learntorv · 1 pointr/GoRVing

On my last rig, I took the easiest way out. I wired up a 1000W inverter (Xantrex ProWatt 1000) and then plugged an extension cord into the inverter's outlet. I then ran the extension cord to a 50amp twist lock to 15amp male adapter and plugged the camper directly in. The biggest thing to this is using the breakers inside of the camper to control what does and doesn't run - namely your converter. If you're lucky, the converter's charger will overload the inverter and will pop the GFI on it; if you're unlucky, you'll send yourself into a charging/discharging death spiral!

​

It's cheap and easy and just worked. With a 1000W inverter, you have about 7-8 usable amps and have to be careful about what you run.

​

Here's a diagram for how I wired the batteries and inverter:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougsetzer/37028550501/

​

Sticking with a small inverter like this 1000W inverter, I am looking at an alternative solution so that I don't have to constantly move cords around. I have mapped out the outlets in my rig and have determined which outlets are on which circuit breakers in the camper. For the most part, it's really just 2 breakers with a couple of outliers. I am going to take one or two of these Xantrex Transfer Switches. (One or two depending on which circuit breakers I want to have hot from the inverter.)

​

The way this Xantrex Transfer Switch works is you run an extension cord from the inverter to the transfer switch. Then you UN-wire the breaker in the circuit panel and connect it to the Xantrex Transfer switch's input. You take the transfer switch's output back to the circuit breaker that you un-wired. It gets power from either inverter or from shore power.

u/lordkuri · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Be careful with that. A lot of the cheaper ones don't have any bearings on the wheels and they will burn out really fast unless you drive REALLY slow... like under 2mph slow.

I know Barker's tanks have bearings and bigger inflatable wheels and will hold up a lot better. Their warranty support is really damn good too.

We have a 42 gallon one and I use one of these to haul it around after I fill it since the dump station is quite a ways away from where we set up.

edit: That picture is wrong... that's the old style, here is the right picture

u/Flashguy · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Most trailers only have stabilizing jacks. They just prevent movement while you are walking around the trailer. We bought these levelers. They are super easy to use.

Youtube video

u/sullyb007 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

No, I don't think it would hurt at all, but why would you want to fill up your grey tank that much faster? Personally, I don't have that much issues with dumping and flushing my black water tank, but I can understand why some would rather not use it for solids. If that's the way you choose to use it, you can still use the back water tank for urine. You'll still want to put the chemicals down there to help dissolve the TP for the women who use it, and prior to dumping, just fill it with fresh water to help push everything out. I also use the flush king to back flush to make sure I got most of it - http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-4350-Black-Flush-Reverse/dp/B008O9DV78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397824185&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+king

u/Helen_A_Handbasket · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Get a hitch tightener. It will alleviate much of the "normal" noises a hitch can make. But yes, like everyone else says, make sure your hitch etc is correct.

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Cargo-Carriers-20-6-Tightener/dp/B0001CMUV4

u/jrh517 · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

The two jacks in the rear are like this.

The bases for those jacks are like this.

The jack in the front is like [this] (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6gEYG4Pn04KSHCR1cztNNA.jpg)

u/Raptor01 · 6 pointsr/GoRVing

I've done a few things. My most recent mod was adding USB plugs all over the place wired directly to the 12v system. I used these: http://amzn.com/B00MNGCDVS
That helps when we're dry camping and keeps our 120v outlets open for other things when we're not.

The best mod I've done is adding a battery voltage and current display: http://amzn.com/B013PKYILS

That shows how many amps you're using and gives a very accurate display of your voltage. SUPER handy while dry camping.

u/Tiger851 · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Dicor self leveling for roof. Proflex for everything else. Expensive, but both specifically designed for RV applications.

Many people say never use anything with silicone. It work well at first but fails after a while and nothing (even more silicone) will stick to it. Have to scape all the old off first. I don’t have first hand experience as I’ve avoided it due to those reports.

Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6KGPFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pQeUCbFX9R1FT

Geocel 18-9803 GC28100 Pro Flex Rv Flexible Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XLeUCb6GEJD6J

u/NEHOG · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Sounds like you might benefit from a tank spray attachment!

u/martinis00 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I bought this one that goes around the spare tire. Just took my 1st trip, and it's perfect. only holds 2 though
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKZDCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/juicius · 4 pointsr/GoRVing

If they're handy, give them a couple of [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MNGCDVS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Very easy to install, just need access to 12v line. I have a couple in mine and it's very convenient.

u/quedra · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

We have a 2006 Rockwood. Since its the same manufacturer, we may have the same lights.

Our dinette light is two bulbs, with a half dome...

Outside porch and yard lights...

Small round reading lights.

All overhead lights...

Hope this helps.

Edit: the outside lights and the dinette lights look very similar. Also, the stove hood light uses the same bulb as the overheads.

u/tipping · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Would a sway bar work to compensate? I ordered this one from Amazon as recommended on etrailer.com.

u/boundingalong · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I have two of these i installed to prevent bouncing and such. One on the car bike rack and one on the hitch on the rv the car is attatched to. Not sure about the one on the rv doing much but i am sure the one the car for the bike rack reduced the amount of moving around the bike rack does. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/MikeyToo · 1 pointr/GoRVing

This is what I installed in my RV. They make external ones that are cheaper, but they can also grow legs or be forgotten. Another nice feature of the internal model is that you can check your AC input from within the RV.

u/tv64738 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I was looking at this myself http://amzn.to/2ukXDzh but haven't bought it yet. Traveling a lot means getting Amazon is a bit tricky..

u/chasw98 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Look into a Kill A Watt. It will read voltage and other measurements on items that plug into it. They are $20 on Amazon. I keep one plugged in to a convenient outlet in our 5th wheel so I always know the AC voltage.

u/My_soliloquy · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Want to track your fridge/freezer temps while you drive? Try using the AcuRite 00986A2 Refrigerator/Freezer Wireless Digital Thermometer, you put the sensors in the fridge/freezer and you can keep the readout in your truck while driving. Amazon has it here, but I think you can find it cheaper elsewhere for longer shipping times.

u/GalaxyClass · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

Depending on your camper, there might be none.

You can purchase a small inverter that can recharge laptops, etc for < $30. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ I'd recommend one of these.

Larger inverters will need more serious tie in with the battery but let your run a coffee pot or toaster. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDDHQ?aaxitk=Y7GrGBvM25auhWk2RTTYAA

I would not bother with the larger because you can just fire up the generator and run almost anything. Since you are in a class C with only two batteries, a large inverter will flatline your batteries pretty quickly if you try to run something at high power for any real length of time.

Also check your park rules because some parks only allow generators during certain times of the day.

I'd also recommend replacing the conventional light bulbs with LED bulbs. Incandescent can make a surprising amount of heat and waste precious battery. If you have time to order from china, it can be pretty cheap, but remember to order extras and take them with you. Some will have 'birth defects' and die quickly so you want to replace them.

Remember that it can take longer than you might think to recharge your batteries so make sure you pay attention to how they are doing. Dead batteries in the early night can really suck if you need that fan, lights, or water pump. You'll get the feel for it though after a few days once you see how much they burn down overnight, recharge etc.

u/mikeyBikely · 1 pointr/GoRVing

You can also test all of your devices' consumption with a Kill-a-watt. It can read "realtime" load, so you can power up a device and watch it's peak watt usage.

u/pjjtlc · 1 pointr/GoRVing

On my phone, sorry if the link is weird.
Supco SPP6, Relay Start Capacitor 120-288V
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FM8X3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5w1sumWhDLQh5

u/thedudeintx82 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I should have elaborated a bit more. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZS7GO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I was referring to. I also have the X Chocks and They also make a big difference.

We always have issues with the normal chocks with them getting stuck under the tire and have to back up or pull forward to get them out. These chocks I recently got don't have that issue.

u/RugerRedhawk · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Can you track down an owners manual? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this is the stuff typically used: https://smile.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-Pack/dp/B00G6KGPFM

u/Akhavir · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I did just that. I added a 1k MicroSolar Inverter (here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4TP3AE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

I added this directly to the battery, ran the remote to my door light switch area, and then added an outlet and romex. Using the romex, I wired it directly to a relay ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S5Y158/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) to prevent backfeeding of the circuit breaker panel. Then I wired that to the 120 outlets inside the camper [No 13.5k AC Unit power, just everything else in the unit]. When the shore/generator power is on, EVEN if my inverter is on, it'll prioritize shore/generator power over the inverter. When the shore/generator power turns off, it'll now draw from the inverter and the batteries. I put a cheap APC battery backup on my DVR to avoid having to relocate signals. Everything else in the camper is unaffected.

I run a 25 foot Lance Truck Camper. It has 2 solar panels for an unknown amount of power (installed before me). I have two deep cycle interstate batteries. A 2500 watt LP Onan Generator on board & 2k Honda EU2000i that I put on the ground. I don't have much room for anything else. At night, using TVs, DVR, charging devices, lights, etc, I can go more than 12-14 hours before I run out of juice. If I have sun light in the morning, I'm fine. If I don't, I start the generator. If the batteries are too dead, I start the truck, which powers the charge controller, allowing me to start the generator.

u/blounsbury · 1 pointr/GoRVing

RV parks can have bad electricity. Its not always that the distribution is bad (but it can be), but also it can be overloaded (and there can be demand surges) that cause voltage to spike or drop. You want a surge suppressor and voltage regulator combo. You need to protect yourself against spikes/surges (voltage goes up) and drops (voltage goes down) as both can damage your electronics. Since you have a smaller trailer, I'm guessing it takes 30A service - Here's the one I have ($266): https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-EMS-PT30C-Portable-Protector/dp/B003AL23TC/

u/TheSpareTir3 · 5 pointsr/GoRVing

Unless something that is not biodegradable was added to the tank (toy as you stated) everything will eventually breakdown. The question is do you have solid buildup in the tank? One way that can happen is the lack of water use, the black tank needs plenty of water all the time. Is it possible while dry camping your family conserved water while flushing?

If you are at a park, I would recommend you fill the tank fairly full with water. Let that sit 24 hours to hydrate any solids, then dump. It helps if you have a clear sewer attachment so you can see what runs out, and back flush with the one I linked to above.

If you still have a problem, add a cup of kitchen detergent (such as Dawn). Fill your tank just slightly. Then drive around in your RV, too much water you won’t get the agitation on the bottom of the tank. You want just enough water so when you slow down or accelerate you slosh. If the buildup is higher on the walls, you can increase the water volume and repeat. This won’t clean so much the lower section of the tank but will start to work the higher tank sides.

This should only be done after keeping the tank full to hydrate for 24 hours or the solids will be still firmly stuck to the walls. Some will say ice cubes but from my own experience and others testing it, the ice cubes do no better then pure water.

When driving I don’t have to go far. It’s more quick starts and stop, possibly some turning. You don’t need to do it at high speed, the key is agitation so abrupt changes will keep the water moving.

I like the Geo Method for maintenance. The basic idea is a water softener to keep things from sticking and soap for grime and smell. Start by adding two cap fulls of Calgon and 1/2 calgon cap of Dawn with water. Borax can be substituted for Calgon, it can be less effective and Borax should be dissolved in hot water before adding to the tank.

The way we do it is, dump leaving a park. Put the chemical in the tank with a bit of water before our next stop. When we arrive we fill the blank tank 1/3 or so and repeat.

u/PantherJeep · 8 pointsr/GoRVing

I would not even consider plugging into a power source without a quality surge protector (even at home, where I have a dedicated TT-30R circuit). Many thousands of dollars of electronic equipment is at risk of damage or destruction in most coaches if the power going to it is bad. Spikes, sags, and bad grounds can damage any RV; those with 50A service must also contend with the risks due to a bad neutral leg as well. For the $200-400 a quality surge protector costs, it's a pittance to pay versus the cost of repairing destroyed electronics and/or wiring throughout a coach.

edit: added Amazon.com links