Top products from r/Goldfish

We found 72 product mentions on r/Goldfish. We ranked the 100 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Goldfish:

u/ashleyasinwilliams · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

Ooo, glad you're rescuing them! I've rescued a few goldfish before as well, so hopefully I can help with some advice:

  1. Yes they need out of their current tank ASAP, but acclimate them slowly! Their water right now is probably wayyyyy high in ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. Changing that to clean water too quickly could shock them. What I did when I got some goldfish from a shitty situation like that, is:

    -Add a ton of Seachem Prime, because it detoxifies ammonia, so if it spikes while messing with the tank, they'll be safe. A small bottle is only $5.

    -Do one ~50% water change per hour, until params are ok (you need a test kit like this to know the params, if you don't have one, just do at least 4 or 5 water changes to be safe)

    -Move them into the new tank

  2. Get a filter for the bin. Sponge filters are super cheap, especially since you already have an air pump and some tubing. I'd get the biggest one you can, you want to over-filter for goldfish. Until you get the filter, still run the air pump on the bin, the oxygenation is good for them.

  3. Does their current 10 gallon have a filter? If so, run that on the 40 gallon bin as well, as the filter form the 10 gallon should have at least some beneficial bacteria to help kick-start your cycle. Read up as much as possible about the Nitrogen Cycle in aquariums, an understanding of this is absolutely crucial to get these poor guys healthy. Here's a general link on what the cycle is, and how to fishless cycle. Since you already have the fish, you'll need to do a fish-in cycle though, so here's another link on that. Basically, you'll need to be testing water a lot and doing water changes pretty much daily for a bit.

  4. Get some quality food for them. Flakes are terrible, they're very poor nutritionally, and they also float at the top, and eating from the surface can cause issues with gulping air for goldfish, as they are bottom-feeders. Get them some kind of sinking pellet, Hikari and Omega One are both good brands. Repashy makes a gel food called "soilent green" which is personally my favorite goldfish food, but they don't usually sell it in pet stores so you'd need to order it online, and it is a little bit pricier than pellets.

  5. Make sure you're aware these goldfish will need a bigger tank as the grow. The 40 gallon will be an amazing upgrade for now, but within months they'll need something bigger, as goldfish grow pretty fast, even when stunted previously. As adults, expect at least a 125 gallon tank for these guys (really though you'd be better off going bigger if possible!).

    Are there any specific questions you have? Ps I'd love to see pictures of the dudes when you get them!
u/intangiblemango · 6 pointsr/Goldfish

A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).

For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.

Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.

P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!

u/Confidence_Trickster · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

Welcome to /r/goldfish! It's so timely that you posted this, there's actually a 'beginner's guide' to goldfish over on /r/aquariums right now!

Since you guys are already set up, the most important aspects that will pertain to you and your fish are how large their tank is, and what your water quality is - meaning how much ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates there are, but water hardness/softness and ph are also important, too. Most people test their water quality with different kinds of kits you can pick up at a pet store. I would say that those two factors will most determine the long term health and happiness of your goldies ^_^

If you already have one of these kits, please post your water parameter info, as that knowledge can be helpful in other being able to give you specific feedback/suggestions.

Other than that, it looks like you guys are on the right track from what I can see in the pictures. Lost of people recommend sand for goldies because they like to forage on the bottom and can get gravel lodged in their throats, so that was a smart move!

p.s. best of luck with your plants... goldies like to tear them up, but I've heard some success stories, too :)

u/xtwistedxlovex · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.

Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).

The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.

The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.

u/TheYetiCall · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

So I've been doing some more googling and there is a TON of literature on goldfish growth hormone but none of this really helps you if said parents aren't in the biological science field and understand what they're reading... and frankly, if they are then they should already understand that goldfish get huge. And the other issue is, unless you have access to the journals, there's not much I can do. You could always see if you can be part of an interlibrary loan program but if not, I'm not finding much being said in the abstracts. Like this one has some interesting information but it doesn't flat out say, you need x sized tank.

the other issue I'm finding is that the actual good literature costs more than most of my text books and aren't really available online. If you look some more, this one has what you're looking for but this format doesn't include those pages. I don't own the book so I can't scan the pages for you either. I've just read through it before. However, a lot of universities can get their hand on it so it may be worth looking up your zip and seeing if there are any local. This is done by the same author but different version and is well loved by breeders. As well as this one but once again, those prices...

If you really have to spring for a book and this one is well liked and pretty cheap but I'm not sure if it satisfies your need for scientific literature.

Just how scientific do you need? There is PLENTY of evidence about how long goldfish can live, stunting, ect ect out there but do they need someone in a white coat telling it to them?

u/poisson_rouge · 1 pointr/Goldfish

I'm so sorry for your loss :( There are things that you can do to help protect your other fish from getting sick, but I hope you still recognize that you've already been taking extremely good care of your fish -- your little oranda was lucky that you were the one to take him home.

Goldfish are "unnatural" fish that are bred to maintain traits from their egg-shaped bodies to their fancy fins -- even their color is the product of specific breeding. This makes it so that sometimes, their breeding can compromise their health (like what may have happened with your oranda with his puffy wen). To be on the safe side, you might want to try to source your fancies from a respectable breeder (or even just shop around for the best pet store in your area). Goldfish can also be extremely difficult to take care of, mainly because so much about their care is still wrapped in unhealthy traditions and real experts are so few and far between. (I first got my comet from a pet shop that sold me a bowl, no water conditioner and told me he'd only live a month or two.)

This book from the creator of the Goldfish Connection is really helpful. Again, sorry for your loss.

Edit : BlueSanctum had the great idea of doing a garlic treatment for your sick fish, and thinking about it, maybe you should now look into feeding your other Oranda some garlic and/or doing some kind of garlic treatment ? Just in case your first oranda had a parasite or something which may spread to your second fish. In addition to the Koko's site, Goldfish Emergency has a good article on it.

u/Gallein · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

Bubbles are great for both playing and helping a little bit with oxygenation in your tank (but not a whole lot). My oranda loves to play in them. You really can't go wrong by adding one I don't think, unless you find down the line your fish likes to eat bubbles.

I use Tetra Whispers. I have a 10g one and the 40g one - what you're seeing in the pictures is the 40g on a split air line, full blast. They're not that noisy - not that much if at all noiser than the filter you use at least. I have one on a non-slip pad and the other on a hand towel and they're quiet. The air stone is just a generic one I got offline, it's circular.

u/SweetMamaKaty · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

The main problem is likely ammonia poisoning. Even though you have a filter, you don't yet have a "cycle". The others are correct that your current tank is too small, but the fish will die long before it grows and needs more space if you aren't able to keep the ammonia down.


The best product to get is Seachem Prime, and use it at each water change.


For now, yes change 100% of the water - daily - until you know that you have a cycle in place by testing your water with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.


If this all seems too much to manage for a fish you weren't looking to own in the first place, you could always rehome it via Craigslist or surrender to a pet store. If you decide to keep it, you're in for a fun, rewarding hobby! :D

u/Valravn_Ulfr · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

They look like it might be ich. Have they been puffing their gills out or rubbing on things? Are they darting back and forth? You could check out Goldfish Emergency and see if the symptoms match. Sometimes anti-ich medicine won't work if you don't clean the tank thoroughly enough.

Also, I can tell you that you have too many fish in there. That might be okay for the fantails, but the comets put you over capacity. Goldies also like water between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you can try and lower the temperature a bit slowly. Only a degree every few hours.

In addition, are you checking amonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH? If not, you need to go and get a tester kit. i also strongly reccomend a GH & KH test kit as well as your goldies will be much happier with proper water hardness and if they are sick it will also help them heal more quickly.

u/LordeBiscuit · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

I use a UV sterilizer in my tank for a few hours a week. I especially turn it on after cleaning the sides of my tank. My water is crystal clear now and I don’t have to put any chemicals in my water. I actually did go the chemical route at first but it did t help me much. My brother had left the lights on in my tank for 13 days straight when I was out of the country and both brown and green algae plagued my tank for over a year. UV is the way to go for sure. This filter has a built in light and it’s top tier (they come in many sizes, this was just the first one that came up on my search).
https://www.amazon.com/HW-304B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO

u/ZZZ_123 · 1 pointr/Goldfish

It's been awhile, but I'm planning on ordering these plastic plants and curious how they are holding up? Is it easy to keep them clean?

https://smile.amazon.com/Hukidoy-Artificial-Hanging-Plastic-Greenery/dp/B07JDF8F83/ref=redir_mobile_desktop

u/Random_A_Irrelevant · 1 pointr/Goldfish

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406499945&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

This filter will filter up to 100 gph, which covers the minimum requirement of 10x the tank capacity (if you turn it all the way up and make sure it is never clogged) and is cheap. I use Aquaclear filters in both of my tanks and love them. Do not use the carbon insert unless you need to remove medication from the water. Instead get another little sack of biomedia to put in there for the beneficial bacteria to live in.

That said, please get your fish a larger tank with proper filtration as soon as possible.

u/dj_orka99 · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Flake foods like tetra are alright because they are normally high fat and protein cotent but you should alternate with bettr food like Hikari food. Don't buy the fancy hikari. Regular Hikari Gold for pond fish will do the trick and is pretty cheap

http://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK02342-17-6-Ounce-Medium/dp/B00025JZ90/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458070142&sr=1-1&keywords=Hikari+gold


Also you can get an automatic fish feeder off ebay for 5 $

u/VinylScratch01 · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Do you know if they used strips or test tubes?

I would recommend buying one of These it will give way more accurate results than strips. And it will last like 800 tests, great for if any time something seems off in the tank

u/bruisesandlace · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

You can also do a fish-in cycle since you already have him.

You'll definitely want him in at least a 20 gal tank, although I've started mine in 10 gallons and let them grow out. 20 gal can sometimes be tough on the budget, but be aware he will need one eventually.

You'll want a water testing kit of some sort. This one is probably the gold standard but you can get away with just some lfs test strips, as long as you're testing nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia.

Also, goldfish are social (not to be confused with schooling) so he'll probably want a buddy at some point if he start showing depressive-like symptoms.

Welcome to the hobby! The addiction now begins lol

u/thatwishywashy · 1 pointr/Goldfish

I've been researching canisters all morning and I think if I go ahead and purchase this one it should work for my tank and it's in my price range right now. Does this look to be ok, the reviews seem good?

I'll probably hold off on purchasing the stand still though, I'd like to get one of the one with storage under that looks like it will run my about $200.

u/heldc · 1 pointr/Goldfish

No, he never touched the sponges.

And Seachem makes a free/total ammonia test kit, plus their placards only read free ammonia. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002A5XFU http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255R5G are what I'm using to measure free ammonia.

I see no signs of parasites, and no bacterial or fungal symptoms. I've got pima and mela-fix, and can dose the tank, but the gravel and filter housings&intakes just got deep cleaned, and I see nothing that would make me think bacteria, fungus, or parasite. Like I said, every other fish is perfectly fine.

Symptoms seem exactly consistent with nitrate poisoning, maybe this goldie is more sensitive, but for a week now I've been keeping nitrites and nitrates pretty much non-existent, which would, I'd think, lead to the fish getting better if it was nitrate poisoning.

Can fish have strokes?

u/prunepotato · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

If you have the money to spend I would recommend the Python. It hooks up to your sink so it's just a matter of pulling some levers.

Other wise, ten gallon storage containers + armless rolling chairs work well for me. Dechlorinate in the ten gallon then use one gallon containers to pour the water into the tank. And a siphon is a must!

u/EmilyKnowsNothing · 1 pointr/Goldfish

The photo clearly shows damaged gills and dormant behavior. Flukes infestation combined with ammonia typically leads to that. It appears as if a fungal infection is kicking in. (Flukes slowly kill and cause tons of fungal infections in the process)

OP, your best bet is going with Hikari's PraziPro or Seachem's Paraguard, stress coat, and serving soft fruits / vegetables to boost the immune system. Then dose Seachem's Kanaplex separately to deal with the fungus.

https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK73254-Prazipro-Aquarium/dp/B004LOBGYA

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116060608-ParaGuard-250ml/dp/B0002A5X7I

https://www.amazon.com/Kanaplex-5-g-0-18-oz/dp/B00CJ0VY8G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?

BTW, can you show off photos of the entire body for better judgement? If it's ICH, Hikari's Ich-X alone would beat the daylights out of the ICH and fungus at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-USA-Inc-Ich-Treatment/dp/B00176I3UA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?

But be careful, while it's highly effective, Ich-X contains some cancerous stuff to human health. I recommend to go with Seachem's Paraguard for ICH, but it will take longer. You can combine Paraguard with Kanaplex to deal with bacterial infection if that's the case, but make sure to pump oxygen in the take since meds reduce it.

https://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/freshwater-community/1042-can-kanaplex-be-used-with-paraguard

u/hagridcat · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

Might want to give repashy soilent green a shot. It's a gel food you mix yourself with boiling water. It takes a couple of minutes once every two weeks and it's much more nutritional and helps prevent some health issues. A lot of breeders and distributors like Jenny from Solid Gold and Dandy Oranda swear by it. You can get it on Amazon and the powder lasts forever. I've had mine for several months and hardly made a dent in it.

https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Soilent-Green-All-Sizes/dp/B00GM29YMA

u/MINECRAFT_BIOLOGIST · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

If you don't mind spending the money, you can get a test kit to check your levels of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites, amongst some other things. I believe the usually recommended one is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

It's pretty worth it and will last you a decent amount of time. You might have high levels of ammonia without realizing it, even if you follow your local pet store's instructions. And if that's not the case, then at least you've ruled something out.

u/angard2012 · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

I have the predecessor to this filter on a 55 gallon with African clawed frogs and a goldfish it works really well. Since you have a slightly larger tank it might be a good idea to add either another canister or an aquaclear HOB. Personally I would add an aquaclear 70 or 110

u/Inlikealamb · 2 pointsr/Goldfish
  1. The guy with the black markings is called a Ranchu.
  2. Don't add anything else to the tank as you really want a 120 liter tank or so for two fully grown fancy goldfish.
  3. Water changes should be done as often as is reasonable and you should use a water test kit of some kind. (Even the cheap strips are better than nothing)
  4. Goldfish are filthy and filters like to overestimate their effectiveness so I would suggest picking up a sponge filter and hooking it up to the air pump instead of the bubble wand to add extra filtration and to give you two filters so if one fails you don't have zero filtration while you replace the other one.
u/midnight_waffles · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

Ammonia is one of the most important things to test for. Plus, test strips are notoriously inaccurate. This kit is the thing you need. If you're hell-bent on keeping the test kit you have, at least buy an ammonia test kit. Your ammonia and NitrItes should read 0 ppm. NitrAtes can be present, as long as they are <20 (some people say less <40, but I always err on the side of caution). Did anyone at PetSmart educate you on how to properly cycle a tank? I'm really surprised they sold you a fish with a brand-new tank...That's pretty messed up of them. But I'm not surprised. They might have sold you a sick fish, too, that is just now showing signs of illness with the extra stress of being put into a new tank. Super sorry I can't be of any more help at this point! Could you try posting your photo of the fish again?
 

***Edit: I got the photo to load. It's definitely not ich. That looks like some fungus...Maybe? It's so hard to tell. He looks really sick, whatever it is. It did not just start all of a sudden-I think they sold you a very sick fish. If it dies, do yourself a favor and do not ever buy anything at that PetSmart again. I'm so sorry. I hope he pulls through.

u/otp1144 · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Test strips are not very accurate. You should get this

What kind of filter do you have on it?

Also just because all your fish look healthy, doesn't mean they are

u/__Levi · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Its not too hard if you get something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Python-25NS-25-Feet-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

It takes less than half an hour to change 50% of my 75 gallons, and most of it is me sitting on my couch watching TV trying not to forget I have it running.

u/Drawtaru · 6 pointsr/Goldfish

Hoooo boy. Okay so here's the deal. You have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much fish for your tank. The minimum recommended size for one goldfish is about 75 liters, and it increases as you add more goldfish. For two goldfish, you'd need 113-151 liters (depends who you ask). And your filter needs to be moving 10x the capacity of the tank per hour. So for example, if you had a 75 liter tank, you'd need a filter that's moving 750 liters per hour. Anything less than that is going to cause problems.

First things first, though. Your water quality is not good. I can almost 100% guarantee it. Your tank is not large enough for your fish, and you don't have a filter, so your water is going to quickly become lethal. This isn't a scare tactic. It's the truth. This is why your new fish died. It likely already had a weakened immune system from the stress of moving, and the poor water quality quickly overwhelmed it. Goldfish are some of the messiest fish out there, thus they need a lot of water and a lot of filtration, otherwise they will literally die from breathing their own toxic water.

Don't use chemicals to regulate your water quality. You need to get a water test kit and start learning how to keep track of your water parameters yourself. As of right now (is in like, today), you should be testing your water every day, and changing 50% of it every day, and make sure you're using a water conditioner like this one every time you change the water, since tap water isn't safe for goldfish.

So, to summarize, go get at least a 75 liter tank (but larger is always better with goldfish), get at a minimum a filter that moves 750 liters per hour, get a water test kit (drip test, strips are not reliable), and get a water conditioner. Do a 50% water change every day, adding water conditioner to the new water before adding it to the tank. This stuff is all going to be expensive. But once you have it, the cost of keeping the fish is quite low. It's a small price to pay for the health and wellbeing of living, feeling animals.

If you have more questions, be sure to ask.

u/hermitfish · 1 pointr/Goldfish

I do a similar water change with the Python water change system (got it here https://amzn.com/B000255NXC) and always mix in the water conditioner as it fills, so far no issues. Filling with pre-declorinated water is of course the safest, but really can't beat the efficiency of straight from faucet for large tanks.

u/buildingbridges · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

Amazon, I found these and used plant weights and black thermoplastic I already had to make a base so they’d sink. I used half of one of the plants for each side of my aquarium. They came with the stems attached to a plastic coated wire so I just popped them off and pieced them out.

u/scupanine · 1 pointr/Goldfish

This is the kit everyone is mentioning- correct?

u/GodspeakerVortka · 1 pointr/Goldfish

I've had a Sunsun (this one) on one of my tanks for almost two years now and have never had any issues with it.

u/nottivagos · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

it looks like nitrate poisoning. are you sure you've been shaking your nitrate test enough? the instructions say 30 sec on the second bottle and 60 sec on the mixed solutions IIRC, and they really mean it. you can get much lower readings if this isn't done properly.

that said, i also do not think the answer in this case is to change so much water at once, because it will shock the little guy even more. you are going to want to change a lot of your water, but gradually over the course of the day.

i would also suggest adding a little airstone or two to help him breathe a little bit easier while you try to deal with this.

it also bears asking: are you using any sort of water conditioner? chlorine in tap water can kill the good bacteria that lives in your filter. tho that wouldn't lead to excessive nitrates, it can lead to big big problems fairly quickly, so if you're not already doing it (and sorry for the lecture if you are!), i would suggest picking up a bottle of Seachem Prime asap. use it every time you change any water!

u/joshshua · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

Lots of opportunities here:

  1. Keep the tank out of direct sunlight, which can cause dangerous variations in tank temperature.
  2. 90% water change once per month is too much water, too infrequently changed. Change no more than 25% of the water at a time or you will stress the fish. Frequency of changes needs to be enough to keep up with the Nitrates, which is largely driven by number of fish and amount of food input.
  3. Your old filter contained bacteria which convert ammonia to nitrite and convert nitrite to nitrate (AKA biofilter). The new filter is not colonized by these bacteria, so your fish are likely swimming in very toxic ammonia. Buy a water test kit and test your water. If your ammonia and nitrites register any amount at all, you can buy some concentrated bacteria to kick-start the biofilter. Dose the bacteria solution slowly with small amounts every hour and monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels 2x a day until the tests register zero ammonia and nitrite. Once the bacteria are established, your tank will be "cycled" and the fish can start recovering.
  4. A 10 gallon tank is much too small for even just one comet goldfish. You should consider upgrading to at least a 55 gallon tank, but with two comets I wouldn't go smaller than 75.
  5. I disagree with the pet store about the aquarium salt, but I can only offer my own personal experience to support my argument. Big-box pet stores are a mixed bag, in my experience.

    Finally, do you treat the fresh water you use for water changes with a dechlorinator? If not, you need to get your hands on some. The chlorine that is added to municipal water supplies can kill the beneficial bacteria in your tank and lead to dangerous ammonia and/or nitrite spikes.