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Okay, take all this for what it's worth (your mileage may vary, I am not a lawyer, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, yada yada yada).....

I bought an '02 WJ in Feb (to replace my '01 XJ) and had similar issues like you're describing. Based on my experiences with my XJ previously, when it comes to the cooling system I tend towards doing a complete overhaul in one go rather than addressing one component at a time.

For your rig, you've got 4 main components to deal with (in my opinion) when it comes to the cooling system:

• radiator & cap
  
• water pump
  
• thermostat
  
• electric fan and relay/controller
  
  If you've already replaced the fan & relay/controller, you should be able to (mostly) rule that out. If you need to check and see if it's running, physically pop the hood and look. It should also be on full time when you switch the AC on.
  
  You've replaced the waterpump, but you say it's "steaming". From where? Grab a flashlight and see if you can figure out where the steam is coming from. It might simply be that you either didn't torque the bolts down enough and it's leaking under pressure, or the surfaces the gasket sandwiches between weren't cleaned resulting in a poor seal, or a combo of both. If it's visibly coming from anywhere around the gasket, you might need to pull the pump and re-do it with a fresh gasket & gasket sealant. Make sure the surface of the block is scraped clean of all the old gasket material and use a good gasket. I have a low opinion of the ones that come with the water pumps and will spend the $$$ on a Fel-Pro (Fel-Pro 35629 water pump gasket).
  
  Check your coolant for debris, particles, any fines or silts that you can see, etc. If the radiator has never been replaced, odds are good that in the 16 years your WJ has been running the radiator is clogged. If you replace the radiator, a good flush of the cooling system will get rid of most of that junk so you don't end up clogging the new radiator and get a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant in there. Top it off with a new Stant radiator cap while you're at it.
  
  Same deal with the thermostat, it may simply be time to get a new one. Consider getting a new housing & gasket while you're at it. Not necessarily a requirement, but I tend towards replacing the housing when I do the thermostat "just because".
  Stick with the OEM 195° thermostat - I ran my 4.0L XJ with the 180° thermostat during the summer in Vegas (100°+ routinely for months) and it noticeably helped but I went back to the 195° thermostat after summer temps ended. If that's your climate, the 180° thermostat might be good for a while but I don't recommend it as a straight replacement.
  
  Is replacing nearly everything in the cooling system overkill? Maybe so, but I take into consideration my WJ is 16 years old (like yours) and I have no idea what kind of maintenance the previous owner has done. So it may cost a little bit, but it's worth it to me knowing all the main parts to the cooling system are "like new" which should eliminate overheating issues.
  For a little bit of perspective on why I think that way (ie- total overhaul) this is what the thermostat on my '01 XJ looked like when I replaced it a few years ago: https://imgur.com/a/FvZQi9E
  The extra ring looking piece to the right of the thermostat is piece of another thermostat that was inside the block.
  When I replaced the radiator on my WJ, I pried off one of the end tanks the core was clogged like you wouldn't believe.
  
  Once you've gone through all that, you also have the option of installing a mechanical clutch fan. This thread on JeepForum gives some good info and links. The tl;dr for that is to go grab this Hayden 2787 fan clutch and this Dorman 620-602 fan and spin it onto the threaded nose on the water pump.
  
  I've got the Torque app with a bluetooth OBD-II scanner so I can check the real numbers vs what the dash gauges are showing. Trust me, you can be running hot before the temp gauge starts to creep past the halfway mark.
  
  After replacing all the bits & pieces I talked about above, and installing a mechanical clutch fan, my WJ is running cold. Yesterday was high 90s here in Vegas, and idling in a parking lot w/ the AC on the temp never broke 200°. Creeping through traffic on the freeway w/ AC on hit 206°-210° but didn't get higher. Driving about 75-80mph for a while, and it was in the 190°-195° range.
  These are the same temps I was seeing with my XJ after I did the cooling system overhaul, so I have no doubt when it starts breaking 100° here in Vegas I won't be seeing any overheating issues with the WJ.
  
  

For my WJ, I removed the electric fan entirely because the relay kept failing, even after replacing it with a brand new relay four times. I still don't know why that kept happening. I replaced the electrical fan with a beast of a mechanical fan, an 11-blade viscous-clutch fan. The only way to remove the fan shroud (which is what the electric fan mounts to) is to also remove the mechanical fan, sadly, as far as I know. To make things easier, I only have the fan shroud attached by the top two bolts, and it stays on absolutely fine with no vibration or anything. It's nice not needing to worry about electronics failing now... the fan just always runs when it has to, and worst-case, the clutch is the only thing that can fail, and if it does then it will just be stuck on full blast all the time which is literally fine lol.

If you're interested, here's the setup I have for the mechanical fan, which is guaranteed to keep the engine even cooler than the electrical fan ever could:

The fan blades

The fan clutch

You'll need to get from your hardware store: four m10x1.5x12mm bolts. My hardware store didn't have any of that exact length so I had to get 25mm length and just cut them down to 12mm. Pretty easy with a Dremel and cutoff disk.

If you have any other questions, feel free to respond to this comment. I highly recommend upgrading to the proper mechanical clutch fan setup if you're having issues with cooling the engine. For under a hundred bucks you can make the upgrade using the Amazon links above. Hope this helps!!

Sorry it took me 2 days to see this post- Bad Mod.. bad!

One of my personal favorite can-do-in-stock-form-and-still-challenge-yourself trails (also a bit of proving grounds for any new mods I do as it is so close to Denver- Yankee Hill Road

I would also pick up a copy of this book for future reference.. This one has a lot to do with trails in Southern/ Central CO- but there is a version 2 of it that has trails that are a bit more northern.
I have used these books religiously since highschool for leading trails around CO, and even Moab. It is a great resource. For everything else- there is Traildamage.com- You can use the map to drill into trails closest to you or where you are looking to go out and the descriptions are pretty good most of the time (i.e. written by users... so think of Yelp reviews.)

Finally, It is a bit late for me this weekend, and I am travelling next weekend, but if I remember I will hit you up next time I am headed out/ up- would be happy to show you around.

I had been keeping an eye out for replacement headlights for months and given the other recent thread I found some projector beams that look good. These are for an '04 WJ Laredo, and Amazon says they won't fit (but they do).

amazon - spyder sonar

I think the 02-04 WJ stock lenses are clear where the turn signals are, so the three bulbs for turn signals and parking lights are amber colored. For me, installation was simple -- just swap the bulbs from the old headlight to the new. Although I do need to replace some of these bulbs as the amber coating is flaking off. The only difficulty was the headlight bulbs are much tighter in the Spyder headlights, but gentle pliers fixed that.

Installation took about an hour as I took my time. I have not connected the LED halo or three outside LED accent lights yet. When/if I do, I'll tie those into the center parking light.

They were very aligned to level after installation. The instructions say to pull up to a wall, mark the center of each bright area, then back up 25ft and compare. The brightest areas should be the same or a little lower. Mine were at the same height which I may turn down slightly, but the right (passenger) side is pointed leftwards a bit. The final picture in the album shows the hard cutoff these projectors have. Even with the stock Sylvania 9005/9006 bulbs, the headlight illumination is much better.

I used this 3M kit on my WJ when I still had it, and it came out looking fantastic. If I spent a little more time and was less nervous on doing it, they would have been 100% clear, but they were probably 90% there anyway. Here's a comparison!

I know it's a little hard to tell, but the headlight on the left of the picture was done with the kit, and the other hadn't been done yet. It definitely was a big difference (for both appearance and brightness during night driving) and I'd recommend using it if you have the time, patience, and cordless drill for it!

There should be a stored code from the airbag light which would help with figuring out what's causing it. You won't get it with a scanner that only pulls CEL codes. A dealer could get it, or you could something like this. I have one and I was able to get ABS codes from it.

Good luck with the blend doors. I almost wish our Jeeps had the Takata airbag issue because then I'd have the dealer replace the blend doors, heater core, and a/c evap while they had the dash off to do the airbags. Just so I wouldn't have to worry about them.

I've had great luck with the the Crown HD steering upgrade. Its built for a V8 ZJ (I have a 4.0) and is just beefier all around, and you get to start completey fresh. I replaced the crown dust boots with energy suspension poly boots based on reviews I've read, and overall its held up great. Only complaint is that one grease nipple will no longer accept grease after 18+ months, but I'll be changing it out soon.

Not sure why another user is suggesting you need poly bushings? I personally prefer real rubber bushings like OEM (Clevite). Poly may last longer, but is a harsher ride and can squeak if you don't grease the joints religiously. The JKS adjustable track bar (double sheer) comes very highly recommended in the ZJ section of JeepForum, and I will be getting a front and rear for my next ZJ build.

If you are keeping stock control arms REPLACE the uppers and lowers. They are so cheap, and fresh bushing(including the two axle end front upper bushings pressed into the front axle) makes a world of difference in ride quality.

Thanks!

I bought these bars from a friend.

And I bought a Rola rack at a local truck supply store. Sorry...not sure which model specifically.

These cross bars and these yak holders. Really recommend the yak holders as they have held up great over a year now.

Thanks it's been a lot of work! They are Spyder Auto Jeep Grand Cherokee Black Halogen LED Projector Headlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003066NJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_pxUWzb732ZS0R

Agreed.

OP:
The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.

Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.

$6.99 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dialectic+grease&qid=1554338141&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I had those on my 04 also. Mounted this cargo basket, worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/Rola-59504-Vortex-Mounted-Basket/dp/B004R34HDC

That’s ok I’ll look some more. I found this , dose yours look like this with a front plate?

i put these in the rear of my WJ http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58620-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C55MQK/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426094196&sr=1-4&keywords=monroe+shock+absorber

and I put these in the front: http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-911506-Reflex-Monotube-Absorber/dp/B000EQ80NE/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426094196&sr=1-17&keywords=monroe+shock+absorber

i really liked them a lot

$79 USD on Amazon sweet!

Bought these in Jan. Easy as hell to install (ignore the reviews, they put better instructions and label everything with easy peel stickers not because of the bad reviews). They're solid too.

2011-2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Crossbars Roof Luggage Racks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RDL78G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_xboESWD3Nxlwq

I highly recommend this 3m headlight restoration kit.

It worked great on the one WJ headlight I did. It did all I could ask for, but the pitting in places was too deep. I bought a set of new ones on ebay for $80.

The quality is not OEM, but for the money they're spectacular and you would think they're OEM looking at the face.

The only issue is regular 9006 headlights won't go into the low beam housing. You need to use 9006xs bulbs which are a straight piece instead of having the 90 degree bend for the plug.

BlueDriver Bluetooth Professional OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone, iPad & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0cW6yb390S8QP

However if you haven't already brought your jeep in for the airbag module that might clear that up

>I have a good knowledge of car maintenance but have never owned a 4wd before.

>
I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2V8, NP249J transfer case, Dana30 front diff, and ?Dana44A rear diff? still not 100% sure about the rear diff model


1994 would have a d35


>
If I use this Lucas gear oil 75w-140 Synth, which says excellent for limited slip use, do I still need to add this additive when I service the differentials?


That'll be fine, no need for an additive.

>
Also ATF+4 in the transfer case?


Dex/merc or atf+4. The tcase isn't picky.

>
How do I tell if my Viscous coupler is bad? Recommendations if it is?


I think the test is to turn in a tight circle and if you feel binding it's bad. Recommend a 231 or 242 swap.

What code reader do you have? Basic OBD2 readers will not pull many codes compared to more expensive readers. You can get a BlueDriver for around $100 and is well regarded.

I got my Rola for less than $200. It's the one you see in the banner pic.

I started with just the standard basket
Later I added the extension

This is just about the cheapest option for a decent roof rack. Other than some minor rust (Mind you I'm in AZ, so rust isn't much of an issue for me) the rack has been great. The weak link in the setup is actually the factory crossbars. They both collapsed on mine under the weight just my spare and HiLift. So that's something to keep in mind.

its the clutch packs in the axle from the quadra drive system. you either need to add friction modifier https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W. I had to do a full fluid change I used royal purple 75W140 with limited slip addative, as well as a little extra mopar addative. sound went away

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008RDL78G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Spec-D Tuning 2LHP-GKEE99JM-TM Projector Headlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016RX9WMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s35YxbNYTXTS9

It was both replacement housings and bulbs. I got the led bulbs the day before the new housings came so I put them in the old ones. Here are the links:

Bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LNNR9GG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1#

Housings: http://www.amazon.com/Premium-2pc-Lights-Part-LTJ22917/dp/B00L8431Q2/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51rQp9dx6GL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=19DTFGRT93WSAXKTMP1Z

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N01QCVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1-headlights


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LNNR9GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -fogs

Its a TMS J-Bar Rack HD Kayak Carrier... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V57NUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463111234&sr=8-1&keywords=hitch+receiver+shackle

For the front and rear as long as you have a tow hitch in the rear.

Will these bushings work? https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80082-Sway-Bar-Bushing/dp/B000C544D2

Here you go

I went cheap but it turned out decent.

These are they mah dude
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016RX9WMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PMH1Bb93VBRAY

I haven’t yet seen a roof basket that doesn’t require crossbars.

I’ve got the Brightlines crossbars, which were $99 US. I’m not sure what shipping would cost to Canada. Check for eBay sellers too.

https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Auto-Cherokee-Projector-Headlight/dp/B003066NJ8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521481017&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=jeep+wj+spyder

Been using these since June 2016 with no issues. I read that this brand sometimes had some issues with moisture getting in, but I haven't seen that yet.

I have a WJ, so not exactly. I couldn't find a good place for a CB in mine. My uncle is big into ham, and in his "junk for trade" box, he had one of these...
Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00000K2YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VhJjDb6ESKR0N
Sadly, it was missing the battery pack and small antenna, but did have the car adapter. Was able to install is with no modifications to the Jeep, and in a short time. If I need to, it will uninstall even faster.