(Part 4) Top products from r/GuitarAmps
We found 13 product mentions on r/GuitarAmps. We ranked the 71 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 61-80. You can also go back to the previous section.
61. Southwire 64162122 2 Conductor 18/2 Thermostat Wire, 18-Gauge Solid Copper Class 2 Power-Circuit Cable, Brown
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Rated 150-VoltSunlight resistant (-20-Degree C to 60-Degree C)18 gauge copper conductors;50 feet spoolGreen compliant RoHSMade in the U.S.A.
Show Reddit reviews62. JOYO JF-16 British Sound Effects Pedal with Classic Brit-Rock Era Amp Simulator and Unique Voice Control
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Achieve tone of the British Rock era amps with ease6 Controls for complete sound manipulation, unique growlQuality components, true-bypass wiring means no signal lossVoice control allows midrange sound shaping between guitars
Show Reddit reviews63. JOYO JF-02 Ultimate Drive Guitar Effect Pedal Overdrive Pedal with True Bypass
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Recreates sound of a Late 70’s overdriven tube-ampFeatures Gain, Level and Tone knobs, as well asHi/LowTone switch allows even brighter top endRich in second- and third-order harmonicsDifferent sounds possible, covers punk to countryPlease refer the User Manual before use.
Show Reddit reviews64. WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Spray, 11 OZ
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER SPRAY. WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray is ideal for removing oil, dirt, flux residue, and condensation from sensitive electrical equipment. This quick drying, residue-free formula is safe on metal and plasticTASK SPECIFIC SOLUTION. WD-40 Specialist offers...
Show Reddit reviews65. GLS Audio 3 feet Speaker Cable 12AWG Patch Cords - 3 ft 1/4" to 1/4" Professional Speaker Cables Black 12 Gauge Wire - Pro 3' Phono 6.3mm Cord 12G - Single
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
True 12AWG Rated (American Wire Gauge)Professional Quality and ConstructionThick 10.5mm Durable & Flexible Rubber JackeGLS Audio Hook and Loop Wrap (Reusable)
Show Reddit reviews66. TC Electronic MojoMojo Overdrive Pedal
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Drive, level, bass and Treble controls - total control of your overdrive soundsTrue bypass - Zero loss of toneVoicing switch - for an awesome mid-shift
Show Reddit reviews67. JJ Electronics Amplifier Tube (T-6L6GC-JJ-MQ)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Octal power tube (max plate Watts = 30W)This Slovakian tube has colorful lows, loose/ easy-going mid Body and a brightly shining chime for the highsIn overdrive, it offers a tight and focused bite with crisp, bright and well-defined articulationAvailable in Singles, Apex Matched Pairs or Apex Matche...
Show Reddit reviews68. VHT AV-SP1-6 Special 6 Combo Amplifier
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
6 WattsOne 12AX7 Preamp TubeFootswitchable Boost Mode4, 8, and 16 Ohm Speaker JacksMod-Friendly Eyelet-type BoardPower: 6 WattsOne 12AX7 Preamp TubeFootswitchable Boost Mode4, 8, and 16 Ohm Speaker JacksMod-Friendly Eyelet-type Board
Show Reddit reviews69. Laney Electric Guitar Power Amplifier, Black/Brown (CUB-12R)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
10 watt RMS, pure class A tube tone
- 1 x 10" custom HH driverSingle channel
- High and low inputsTone, volume and gain
- 2 x ECC83 and2 x EL84Open backed
- Top mount grab handleExtension speaker socket
- 8 - 16 ohm connections
Show Reddit reviews
Heh, fair enough. Switches shouldn't set you back more than a few bucks apiece if you replace them yourself, and then go from there.
What tubes are in there? Six 6L6GC? Looks like about $130 on Amazon if you go with JJs, but they don't have a set of six matched tubes. The old ones may still have plenty of life left in them anyway.
Electrolytic capacitors are the other "wear" item to watch out for. When you do the teardown for the switch replacement, keep an eye out for any leaky caps -- they will let the magic smoke out. Having never worked with a Twin, I'm curious if it has the same giant "canister" style multi-stage capacitor that my Princeton and Bassman did. Those are safe to replace with multiple plain old electrolytic caps, but finding a secure place to put a board full of capacitors can be "fun." At least the replacement caps were cheap.
If the speakers turn out to be trashed, Weber makes some niiiiice replacements that play well with a clean or pedal-based setup. Looks like that will set you back about $228 plus shipping, if you need them.
So, somewhere between $30 and the black market value of a slightly used human kidney. Haha. As for whether it's worth it... Twins are, hands down, the best amps you can get for sheer clean tone -- AMAZING studio amps -- but max volume on the thing may set off car alarms all the way up and down the block. Maybe you'll need to play a set on an airport tarmac?
It's a Joyo Bluejay with a TC Electronic Mojomojo overdrive in front of it. It's a pretty bright amp, and the overdrive is EQ'd a bit on the treble side. That with the more bass heavy Orange really compliment each other. I'd tried nearly a dozen overdrives before I found that one. Was starting to think I'd need to get a different clean/right amp.
I got this and it works fine. https://smile.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-Cable-12AWG/dp/B004Z2H07K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519941297&sr=8-2&keywords=guitar+speaker+cable
Don't splurge on some expensive or super thick cable. As soon as the signal hits the jack in the back of your speaker cab, it's going to travel through a very light gauge wired to the actual speaker.
I did as you suggested with the single battery powered pedal in the loop, and it seemed to get rid of the hum. I then plugged the pedal back into the original pedal chain in the FX loop and the power conditioner and lifted the ground as that video described (I put a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter in between the power supply and the power conditioner) but there was still hum when I did that. If I buy an isolation transformer, like this where would you recommend putting in in the loop? Before or after the pedals?
It'ss fairly common for a Chinese factory to make off-brand versions of the same amps they are contracted to build. But they will have different cosmetics.
So while it seems pretty unlikely a company will make a OR15 knockoff, it is very possible that factory that makes the actual OR15 might use the same guts in other amps for other markets. I think the most notable version of this lately is the Laney Cub 12R and Monoprice 15-watt amp. They are the same inside the chassis.
If you live in a fairly major population center, you can use kijiji to find a nice little amp for a good price, if you're willing to be patient and strike quickly when you find one.
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Or you can look at a VHT from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/VHT-AV-SP1-6-Special-Combo-Amplifier/dp/B003V5WI24
I have the head version of this amp, and I think it's great. Stock output tube was shit, but that happens with most cheaper tube amps.
Fuck I really wish the multimeter wasn't broken right now. I do know for a fact all of the speakers are 75 watts though, so I'm not too afraid. For the speaker cable, something like this is what's used?
There are a million pedals to choose from. The Joyo Ultimate Drive is a good place to start. Maybe also a tube screamer or tube screamer clone.
Have you considered something like this? https://www.amazon.com/JF-16-British-Effects-Brit-Rock-Simulator/dp/B005M0KLGQ
These: https://www.amazon.com/Ernie-Ball-Amp-Casters-Pop/dp/B001FQ74FW
Look for a bad bias resistor on the driver card, bad/broken solder joint on the wires leading to the diode mounted on the heat sink, or (most likely) a bad output transistor.
Check and spray for corrosion at every connection you can get at as well.