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I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

You could do the bath fan idea but with a much more powerful fan. Something like this that vents from the top floor to the outside, in combination with some opened windows, would probably help quite a bit -- as long as there is cool (and not too humid for your tastes) night time air available, and you don't mind leaving windows open for hours. But it's kind of a hack, and if you could tweak your existing ducts to work better, that would be more ideal and wouldn't require messing with windows and whatnot every night.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

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This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

Well I'm guessing you are probably going to learn about residential systems first. Easy to learn. I learned out of this book.http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418598491&sr=8-1&keywords=air+conditioning+textbook
The instructor will have his own choice of book though....First things you learn are principles of pressure and temperature, and then the basic refrigeration cycle, and then basic electricity...I would say getting a head start is great but the on hands with the teacher is really going to be what sticks with you....Some of the guys in this sub might agree that after you have read or been taught a little bit about it, it will stick better when you do it yourself

Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.

Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.

But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.

Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/

Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)

Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain

In that case I think you're going to be paying some big bills in the winter time. I would look at sealing up openings, and keep the thermostat low. Wear jackets indoors and get a nice warm blanket :)

We've used this stuff over our drafty windows and saved quite a bit on our power bill.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

http://www.amazon.com/HONEYWELL-TL8230A1003-Thermostat-Electric-programmable/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449934976&sr=8-2&keywords=honeywell+line+thermostat

I have this one, works great - nice back light and programmable

I'd recommend the Pioneer unit instead of the Mr. Cool one. Also, I really like my controller for the mini split, so if you're willing to spend a little extra, then get this as well - https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Programmable-Conditioner-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

> Also, be aware that if you use that transmitter you have an accuracy of +/- 0.1 psi which doesn't meet your original requirements.

if you look at this chart [http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Transmitters/SeriesDM-2000], I will be selecting model number "DM-2003-LCD". It has range of 0"-0.5" of water. With 1% FS accuracy, it will give +/-0.005" of water accuracy. It is more than enough

>can i ask for a better description of what your attempting to accomplish?

This is for my final year project. I am trying to estimate the remaining life of an airplane filter. It is a rectangular filter with dimensions of 3" by 5". I have designed a housing to sandwich the filter in between. It is airtight and it has 2" dia intlets and outlets. Pressure drop condition given to us have been measured at a set inlet flow rate. Therefore, before I attempt to measure the pressure drop, I have to make sure the flow rate is correct. I am also thinking to put an anemometer at the circular inlet ,
and calculate the velocity at the cross section just before air goes into the filter.[https://www.amazon.ca/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518621498&sr=8-2&keywords=anemometer] However, I don't know if doing that would yield accurate results. As you mentioned pitot tube also has its own drawback, as it measures the velocity of very small section. You would need a grid of those to get an accurate velocity measurement. Our final design needs to be something like a kit, therefore easy to assembly and operate. Putting a grid of pitot tubes is not preferable. Therefore I am considering to use an anemometer. What do you think?

i'm looking at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

and:

http://www.amazon.com/Active-Air-720-Inline-8-Inch/dp/B002JQ4K1I/

would these be considered good quality? or do i need to spend roughly twice as much?

thanks for the info.

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat

I did that test (ua787?) right out of college, it's not an easy one. The science is based around refrigeration theory and the math gets quite challenging without a calculator. The mechanical aptitude is easy enough if you're familiar with the questions. I recommend picking up "Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Technology" and study at least the first few chapters. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.ca/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470

Yep it's simple as that you can get in electronics stem thermometer get yourself a couple of them from Amazon. 50 degrees outside you should have at least 20 degree temperature rise through the heat pump. I'm assuming that both units are going to be having a return air that is pretty much the same. Milder temperatures they should be able to have a better idea of how the charge is. If the line set is licking the only way they can determine that if they would have to shut down your heat pump and pressure test. Might have to let it sit for a week or two see if it loses pressure. These work well for checking temperatures

UEi Test Instruments PDT650 Folding Pocket Digital Thermometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7WO1DbKY1XHGF

Checking each of the vents airflow is step 1 of this process. Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B

This little device tells you how hard the air pressure is coming out of the vent. Ideally, small rooms get low flow, and large rooms get higher airflow.

This should help you get adequate flow to each room.

Right here

refrigeration and technology







We pay for our books just like any college student, if she's serious about this trade and wanted to do it, this will probably be one of the cheapest yet most valuable item/tools she will buy.

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU

As I understand the Nest won't work with mini splits. Rather it's compatible with more centralized heating systems.

For your Daikin ductless heat pump, I'd recommend something like this controller - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

Sounds like you've diagnosed unbalanced airflow. First, follow the route that the air takes as it travels from the air handler out to the rooms, and between the floors. Have you ever seen a small handle that you don't know what it does? Some systems have dampers placed within the system, to adjust airflow during the seasons. If you have one or more, they may be in the wrong position, restricting to flow to upstairs.

You might want to buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B

It will help you even out the flow between vents, so that all rooms can share equally in what your system is capable of putting out.

This one isn't a window unit per-se but it may help.

https://www.amazon.com/Whynter-Portable-Conditioner-Storage-ARC-14S/dp/B0028AYQDC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WBXFFCFXBMQAP382XJVC

Go get yourself this book. Read.

You can find a free PDF file if you know where to look.

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470

I would just stick the probe inside the grates? Something like below device would work?

https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W5255YO2AKBR&keywords=hvac+temperature+probe&qid=1563531434&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+tempe%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/1428319360/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_14_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WSP0MA21G6FKBQCHJ5ZH

Good reference book.

Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Available-CourseMate/dp/1428319360/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536407709&sr=8-

But buy it used. Like 30-40 bucks.

The condensate from the radiators will travel back down the same pipe back to the main then continue along with the steam. If your main drops down below the water line to return to the boiler that is considered a wet return. If it stays above the water line its a dry return.

Id recommend getting a copy of Dan's book for homeowners:

https://www.amazon.com/Got-Steam-Heat-Dan-Holohan/dp/0974396001

And I'll thank you too.

https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

That stuff is not cheap. :-(....but still doable.

Air source heat pumps lose efficiency as outdoor air temperature drops. The compressor has to work harder. Put an acoustic blanket like this one around the compressor(s). It'll reduce the dBA level by 40%. Much cheaper than an acoustic box.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008J5H6I2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?slotNum=2&language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=g12&linkId=a1294a23791123d47df71a7ad2727573&imprToken=pxv32azsr7mR3hiGlzI67w&tag=hitthegolbal-21

Best $12 you'll ever spend

You back the wheel out and attach to port and then attach your hose. Then you screw in the thumb wheel which moves a plunger down to engage the schrader core.

This one is also worth checking out - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-WiFi-Control-Conditioner-mobile/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449156978&sr=8-1&keywords=airpatrol+wifi

They get fucking pricy. Books are a scam

Anyways I was taught out of modern refrigeration and air conditioning

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1631263544/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

It's cheaper on Barnes and Noble like 35 used

Like 3.5' x 2.5'. Or, at least, I think that large noisy vent in a central location is the return...

Aftermarket compressor sound blanket wraps are indeed a thing I don't know much about them either.

Skills? Brazing (with nitro trickle), flaring, bending pipe(which you should know already) reading a pressure temp chart, using a four hose manifold. How to recover refer, pull a vacuum, purge with nitro, use a fill scale.

Those are some basic mechanical skills. There’s sooo much more to know. Hopefully you’re familiar with the vapor compression cycle.

I’d pick up this text book . My instructor’s instructor helped write it.

Get yourself that shrink plastic film to make an interior storm window. And get some weatherstripping for the door. Electricity is expensive heat and you don't want to waste it.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415745224&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+film+for+windows

Replace that contactor they are not expensive. When the contacts inside go bad it causes the terminals to get very hot causing corrosion and melting of the wire's jacket. With that being said also fix the red wire it should not have that much copper exposed.
Contactors are one of the most common repairs I find and also the easiest to fix.
Make sure the one I linked is the correct amperage and coil voltage. 30amp 24VAC is the most common for residential

not sure how buying on amazon works in Canada...

see if this link works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0028AYQDC/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1537358543&sr=8-3

Whynter dual hose 14k BTU (used) shows $332 USD which should be like $430 CAD

they are all amazon warehouse deals so if it sucks or not to your liking easy/free return.

There are several on Amazon.com under $20. See here for one that would work for your purposes.

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

Either one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-MindTap-Course/dp/1305578295/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526763783&sr=8-1&keywords=hvac+textbook

https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Refridgeration/dp/1631263544/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1526763783&sr=8-16&keywords=hvac+textbook

Modern refrigeration and air conditioning.

HVAC textbook

That’s just a quick google search. You may be able to find it cheaper.

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TVuLBbH855VTX

Try this book

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1305578295/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_L4yRzb3HM8Q59

If you can’t afford it, I can send you the digital version

https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-GG-1-Charles-Gallo-Condensate/dp/B00207UAU6

http://www.amazon.com/Gallo-Condensate-Blowout-Gun-Diversitech/dp/B00207UAU6

I personally just use my air compressor and preemptively blow it out once a year, otherwise I find I get a clog.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32527-Schrader-Screwdriver/dp/B004RIDKHQ

This one has a valve core bit and a extractor bit

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pgwLDb7H92ECW

this one might work for you - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453203229&sr=8-1&keywords=airpatrol+wifi

You can use Packard C140A 1 Pole 40 Amp Contactor 24 Volt Coil Contactor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Z2XFwb682SXHW

It will work just fine.
Edit: the brown wire goes on one side of the 24v coil, the yellows go on the other side of the 24v coil. The only difference is that instead of having both low voltage terminals on one side, they are on opposite sides.

fan relays are often installed on a circuit board.

it might be cheaper for you to find a local electronic repair company and have them replace the relay, rather than calling an hvac person out to look at the system. this assumes of course you can properly identify the relay as what has failed.

follow the wires from the fan.. you might find an open frame contractor, driven by a 24 vac relay. you can replace it yourself. here's what it might look like https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B003U7W3SM


if instead you find 5 wires leaving the fan motor and three of them run into three relays soldered on the circuit board. yes, i would replace those myself. you will still need to verify they have failed before wasting your time trying to find a compatible relay.

/u/fbogg might be onto something. Family member of mine uses what I call a spot cooler, basically a cooler for one or a couple smaller rooms that sits on the floor, and the exhaust pipes to the window via a smaller 4-6" flex pipe, that would solve about all your issues right there, a lot of them come with a 90 degree shield where dirt wouldn't be able to go into the pipe and land on the shield.

Unsure about this product but a quick search to explain my idea.

this It uses co2 cartridges to blow out the drain. No, you don't need to take it apart.

Why not put some low loss fittings on them? Or something like this

C&D CD5050 Small Thumb Screw Core Depressor / Flow Control Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Gb4DbFQF24S3

Klein makes a multitool with a bit for backing out broken schrader valve cores. It has saved my ass a dozen times.

These are what I used.

Core depressors are the actual name for them.

https://www.amazon.com/Thumbscrew-Core-Depressor-Part-CD5050/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499473238&sr=8-1&keywords=CD5050

I have three, because sometimes an oil injector or something will have a valve that needs depressed.

This is how you used them as 'low-loss fittings'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvNbS8k1U-4