(Part 2) Top products from r/HomeImprovement

Just some tips that I learned over the years...

1. Tools and know how to use them, safely. http://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/1xeyuf/home_improvement_faq_my_first_toolbox/ - I started out with Harbor Freight tools and purchased better stuff that I used more often.
   
   
2. Probably the most common thing around the house to fix/repair is drywall. This should be pretty easy. Learning how to do the common textures, such as, Knockdown, Orange Peel, etc.. Painting, which should be pretty easy, but there are a ton of articles that have good tips on preventing common mistakes,
   
   
3. Since you're thinking about knocking down walls... learn basic woodworking and home structure. I personally liked this book: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1600854923/ - which basically covers just about everything you can do with renovating. If you're building a bar... you may want to make your first project be a workbench or something simple, which will also be useful for building cabinetry and what not. It talks about also different materials/tools for the job at hand, which is useful.
   
   
4. Building Codes... probably a good idea to know different building code standards, if you ever plan on selling the house. You'll want to make sure that it stays up to code for any project you do. You don't want to end up creating a potential fire hazard that may cost you $ in the future. I can't stress it enough, safety first. If you're tearing down walls, be sure you're not cutting into electrical wires and what not.
   
   
5. Electrical, basic electrical knowledge will help. E.g. knowing about circuits, circuit breaker operation, safety, etc.
   
   
6. Planning out your project ahead of time, will help you avoid costly mistakes, prep you for what tools/materials you'll need. Don't be like me and dive head first. Usually when I deviate from this, my projects come out less than desired. So plan ahead of time.
   
   
7. In the end, the best way to learn, is to plan your project and just go out and do it. Take your time. Don't rush it. Start with small projects where you can afford to make mistakes. Having a carpenter in the family also will help for things that you're not sure on, plus you can probably borrow some of the more expensive tools.
   
   

I second Youtube, but I never really trust any one video, I have to watch a bunch of them and then go for whoever seems most trustworthy. It is nice to have a single expert resource you can turn to frequently.

I really, strongly recommend How Your House Works by Charlie Wing. It's got great cutaway illustrations for common features of the home, and he explains how they work and interact with each other. It's interesting to read, and also a good reference. It's written for beginners, and would be a nice way to start even if you intended to go into greater depth with some other book.

Dropping this here just in case..

Obviously, actual soft close hinges are ideal, but we hope to redo our kitchen in the next few years, so I didn't want to go thru the hassle or cost of replacing all the current hinges. So I installed these instead: https://smile.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ

They work much better than I expected.

Again, yes, hinges are far better. But these are super easy on time and money. Cheers.

Tech: Smart plugs / switches. I'm partial to Wemo and second to TP-Link. Could get a few plugs for under $100. Pair them up with logitech pops someday (the starter kit is $100 right there, I'm just mentioning it because the two work well together.

Universal fan controllers, I can't speak to any brand/style I could recommend. You would have to research that one, but something like this https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ceiling-fan-remote-controls-Ceiling-fan-parts-accessories-Ceiling-fans-accessories-Lighting-ceiling-fans/4294395598 I personally like the wall mount ones with a remote. So you can use the wall switch as normal and the remote as a bonus.

​

Non Tech:

Easy off toilet seats. Ever take a seat off before? Years of poo under the seam. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEMIS-Lift-Off-Elongated-Closed-Front-Toilet-Seat-in-White-1500EC-000/100120881

Pair it up with a plunger that doesn't suck. IE buy an expensive one that won't get stuck and splash poo water all over your walls because you have the $10 cheap one from wally world.

​

Garbage disposal. You can get a little badger for $100. But that's gonna end up being a DIY project to keep your $100 budget.

Soft-close cabinet door dampers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ Again, you're on your own to research a brand/style. But they sell them at big box stores too.

​

Edit:

Bathroom fan timer switch or humidity based. Either get one with button for 10 20 30 whatever min run time, so you can let your bathroom vent humidity out after a shower. Or one that auto turns on at X% humidity. All sold in big box stores.

I am surprised I haven’t seen a mention of wall toggles here.
Zip toggles like this(note, amazon link) are my go-to when hitting a stud is out of the question. You can get them in different weight ratings, for different applications, and it sits pretty flush to the wall. Better in every respect than drywall anchors, excepting price - but at ~$2 per, I’ll pay that for piece of mind (I’ve never had a toggle fail on me).
The install is super simple, too: Drill a hole (1/2” for the 250lb rated size), put the toggle in, zip it down, snap the excess zip off, then use the provided bolt to secure the object to the wall.

 

As a disclaimer: no shill zone, the above link was provided for the pics. I have had luck with other toggles as well, so I’m not brand loyal. I think the only difference for for competing fasteners is in the zip/snap action - but if you go the hardware store and ask for wall toggles, they’ll set you up.


Again, this is second only to hitting the stud directly, you should always try that as the first option.

E: wall, not walk

> Luxe Bidet Neo 185

I thought that sounded familiar, but it didn't look quite right. Turns out I got the Neo 320, with hot and cold water.

After using it for a while, you get used just the cold water stream. But sometimes, going for a warmer wash is nice and pleasant. I've had it for nearly 2 years now, still glad I got it.

These are a little pricey, but I’ve used these snaptoggles to hold up TVs as large as 65” with solid results. Very easy to install and more than strong enough to hold a monitor in drywall.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU6HG48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yaB5BbAWE5483

Your gripit anchors should work just fine as well.

Get a real hardness test first. Money well spent.

Hach 145300 Total Hardness Test Kit, Model 5-B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FM7WLU/

Then get a water softener. Put it after your filters. They are easy to install if you have done any plumbing work. I got this one, it’s great (edit: size your water softener based on your hardness test! I had 19 grains hardness. You want to run a week between regen, give or take, with a 20% buffer. 19 grains x 4 people x 75 gallons per day x 7 days x 1.20 buffer is 47,880. I got a 48,000 grain softener):

Metered water softener with 3/4" Fleck 5600SXT control, 48,000 grain capacity with by-pass valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GBZ2P6/

My water was quite hard, around 19 grains. The softener fixed that, but made it taste like mud.

So I got an RO system and plumbed it to my fridge only. That was easy too. Took me a couple hours total.

I got this one:

iSpring RCC7 High Capacity Under Sink 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filtration System and Ultimate Water Softener- WQA Gold Seal Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XELTTG/

It’s been a trouble free year now with great tasting water. The showers are a bit slipprier, yes, but my kids are less itchy, and gross shit doesn’t grow over every water source in my house any more. Worth it.

I installed this switch for my kitchen fan/light combo that only has one set of wires going to the switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MOIDA8

There is a receiver that goes up in the canopy of the fan, and the wall switch works like a wired remote control. As far as I understand, it is constantly passing power to the control module, then uses the neutral to send commands from the switch that the module interprets and does whatever you say. It has independent power and dimming/speed settings.

Unlike a remote, there aren't any batteries, it always works, and it looks like a normal switch and not like you just stuck your TV remote on the wall.

A few things to note about it:

1. It says it isn't LED compatible, but it actually works totally fine with them.
   
   
2. The newer version does NOT have the same module, and wont work when you only have one set of wires going to the fan.
   
   
3. Some fans aren't set up to be speed controlled by the switch. The Hampton Bay fan we installed wasn't, until I rewired it to bypass the built-in speed controller. I am not 100% convinced that it is good for it to be hooked up the way I did, but so far so good.

I don’t have any great suggestions for fixing the doors, but as far as installing slow close hardware I like these:

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_221-Bb03M09E0

I installed them probably 3 years ago and they still work great, for a fraction of the cost of replacing the hinges with soft close hinges.

1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.
   
   
2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.

So the ultimate splurge would be the toto neorest with elongated bowl. Alas, that’s too bougie for my budget I settle for the bidet attachment from amazon. This this super economical one is a greater starter bidet. The tushy brand is a little nicer option as well.

The amount of air it'll move is honestly more important than a humidity sensor. If you want that functionality, just install a humidity sensing switch in the wall instead of a toggle. A sensor integral to the fan is just one more part to fail, and a switch is cheaper to replace than a whole fan. You want a fan that will move 1 cubic foot of air per minute per square foot of floor space at a minimum. If you've got a 7x10 bathroom, you want a 70 CFM or better fan.

They're OK. Better than the real cheap ones, but not as good as a toggle bolt. Something like these are among the best you can get.

I added a fan to our bathroom (5x6), I went with a Panasonic 80CFM. It works great. I mounted it outside the tub/shower area in the middle of the bathroom. The fan keeps the condensation off the window and the mirror, although, some does build up directly above the showerhead. We have an older house and the ceiling in the shower is lower than the rest of the bathroom.

Also, grab one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3QQD64/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's no point of installing a fan if you dont turn it on...

Edit - get the Panasonic, super quiet.

Some books previously recommended on this sub:

https://www.amazon.com/Renovation-4th-Edition-Completely-Revised/dp/1600854923

https://www.amazon.com/Carpentry-Remodeling-Installing-Removing-improvement/dp/0865737207/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494249697&sr=8-3&keywords=black+and+decker+books+Framing

“A Practical Illustrated Trade Assistant on Modern Construction For Carpenters-Joiners, Builders-Mechanics, and all Wood Workers.”

Do-It-Yourself Housebuilding: The Complete Handbook. by George Nash.

Also, Old This Old House and/or Ask This Old House episodes that cover framing may be valuable to you. JLC and FineHomeBuilding.com are likely to have some beneficial tid-bits of wisdom when you start formulating you're own queries.

Allow me to save you a bunch of money.


Buy two of THESE
and something like THIS and THIS
Along with $15 worth of fittings from home depot you'll have many years of spare filters. If you're interested I can go take a picture of my setup. I have these two filters before my water softener.

Replacing them is extremely simple. It's just a matter of turning off the power at the electrical panel, unscrewing the plate and switch/outlet, disconnecting the wires from the old switch/outlet, and reconnecting them to the new one. Three way switches just have one extra wire. This video gives a good overview of the process.

The only tool you might want to grab is a non-contact voltage tester to make sure the power is definitely turned off before you start handling the wires. A regular DMM would work as well if you already own one.

You might think about a humidity switch like the one below. I have a couple, and they work great. Comes on when the humidity in the bathroom increases. You can turn them on manually, too, when the “issue” isn’t humidity.

Leviton IPHS5-1LW Decora In-Wall Humidity Sensor & Fan Control , 3A, Single Pole, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3QQD64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_31NlDbCCTX16K

I have a couple Lutron Caseta wireless switches. They have a switch you hardwire in place of the existing one, and then you have the option to use a wireless remote. You can mount it on the wall like a normal switch, or it has a pedestal if you want to leave it on a table. If you invest in the Lutron "smart bridge" you can control them with a phone app as well.

edit:
Here's what I have. I like them:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

First, I think it's admirable what you want to do and I'm sorry for the loss of your brother.

Now, if you're serious about this, you first need go consider whether there is any point to it. If you update a room, are your parents just going to let it go to hell again?

If you decide it's worth it, you can learn to be handy. Be confident to try things, but watch videos so you understand how it's supposed to go and know your limitations. Get help with anything structural and with utilities if you're changing anything (i.e., maybe you can handle replacing an old light switch or receptacle with the same type of switch or receptacle, but don't try to rewire a whole room unless you get an electrician to inspect the work before you reenergize). In the end, it's not the end of the world if you don't make it look quite as nice as a professional might, but you don't want to burn the house down or damage the structure.

If you want to get started on the basics, keep subbed go this site for ideas and questions. If you're a total newbie, I'll recommend this book. It'll give you a solid visual representation plus a description of how the systems in a house work.

We have them from Leviton.

Another option is to upgrade your bathroom fan to a unit with it built in. With this fan get a quieter, higher CFM fan that has options like light/nightlight and humidistat built in. In our situation I ordered the Leviton switch and a separate Panasonic fan without the extra functions.

I just bought this book after reading a lot of good reviews, and I would agree that it's got a lot of good info:

Renovation

Step One should be an energy audit. Check to see if your local power company offers this service for free or at a reduced rate. Here is what should be done:

https://www.energy.gov/articles/energy-saver-101-infographic-home-energy-audits

Once they examine your home, they can make suggestions about where best to spend your money for maximum benefit. Additionally, there may be state and federal programs that can reduce your out-of-pocket expenses.

You might also try balancing your system.

This only requires two inexpensive things, an anemometer and a non-contact thermometer.

First, open all the registers. Set the A/C about 5 degrees lower for this test, so that it stays running. Then walk around the house and record the air speed and temperature at each room's vent(s).

Now comes the balancing. Start closing the registers closest to the air handler (A/C fan). Restrict it way down. Maybe 25% of fully open. Don't worry, you can adjust it later.

Take a reading of the air flow. Now go to the next register in line. Greatly reduce it. Move on to the next....

As you do this, all the air is now being forced upstairs. The general rule of thumb is that you do not want to reduce the total air volume delivered by the A/C by more than 25% to 30%. More than that can make the fan work harder which means it could run hotter, which could shorten it's lifespan.

Your goal is to get maybe 60% of the airflow upstairs, and perhaps 40% downstairs. Some homes require 70% - 30% (depending on how it is built).

Re-directing the air so more blows upstairs is not restricting it. A better term would call this a re-distribution of the available air.

Your goal with the anemometer and the thermometer is to get uniform air speed and temp across the entire upper floor. Just a note.....you need to leave the doors open up there, if the rooms do not have return vents. Closed doors can lead to air stagnation and higher temps because you are preventing circulation.

"Wiring a House" by Caldwell is incredibly useful for any electrical work at all. He goes over everything you need to know from 'This is how electricity works' to 'here is how to rewire your entire house to be above code and pass inspection'. Massive amounts of pictures, circuit diagrams with explanations etc. Just a great book and the standard for electrical DIY.


I rewired my entire 4 bedroom house with this as a reference and that included adding 8 or so circuits and rerouting all electrical for our major kitchen remodel.

+1 “for pros.”

I am taking on a diy rewriting project and found this book to be quite helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-5th-Pros/dp/162710674X/

That said, I have a degree in electrical engineering, have taken a hands on electrical wiring class at the local community college, and I am still nervous about rewriting our house. It’s not the principles, but a knowledge of electrical codes and “how to do it right” that you might miss as a diy-er.

Right now I’m thinking of hiring someone to check over my work and to rely on the inspector as well. If others have any tips on how to do this safely, it would be much appreciated!

Yes you can. Easily if you have basic tools and the desire the learn.

Buy this book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/159186612X?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Read it from front to back.

https://www.amazon.com/Renovation-4th-Completely-Revised-Updated/dp/1600854923/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Renovation+4&qid=1563679474&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Has really in depth things but also relatively basic things. I love this book.

I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?

This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/

(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)

I found Renovation 4th Edition to be very informative. It's not necessarilly a step-by-step DIY guide, but it's gives a great overview of the steps and tools necessary to complete a job.

It's probably fine but considering it's electricity I'd stick with the tried and true. Any electrician in the US will tell you Fluke is the gold standard.

Edit- apparently "less than 20 dollars" is no longer true.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1LAC-Voltage-Detector-1000V/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=klein%2Bnon%2Bcontact&qid=1566832341&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

I feel you are overpaying for the filters and housings. Here are some Dupont housings that are substantially cheaper. Also I noticed you have a water softening filter in there, you might want to just look at installing a real water softening solution, amazon has a nice one that would do a better job than just a single softening filter, especially because that filter is only rated at 2gpm

I used this for our bathroom fan. Max is 30 min.

Enerlites HET06A-White 1-5-10-15-20-30 Minutes Preset In-Wall Countdown Timer Switch, w Decorator Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_wucvDb16G0QPJ

Tire of the kids leaving the fan on all day and night. Didn't want to heat or A.C. the outside all the time. Went in quite easily.

They make fans that sense moisture and turn off after the room/vent/ducts are dry.


Humidity sensing fans on Amazon.

Those are mostly over $100, but here's a switch that senses moisture and automatically turns on the exhaust. Pretty cool, I didn't know this existed until you asked! Now I'm totally getting one.

Depending on what your water is like, you might not need something as expensive as that. I only need to filter sediment from my well and am not worried about heavy metals or pesticides, so these work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-WFPF13003B-Universal-000-Gallon-Filtration/dp/B007VZ2O0Q

Rex Cauldwell's book is quite thorough:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-5th-Pros/dp/162710674X

There are cheaper and simpler ones out there, but if you want an all inclusive, this one is very good.

> I'd at least take it apart and use a multi-meter to see if the wires are hot.

I would NOT recommend using a multi-meter to see if the wires are hot. Get yourself one of these things. I consider them an absolute essential for any homeowner or DIY'er. It's a very easy, and relatively safe, way to test for a live cable.

If I'm reading it correctly, this one needs a hot and cold intake.

Thanks for your help by the way.

You can buy these now. Much easier to install and accomplishes the same goal (sorry for the long link). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.u0Db0RP3NYH

In the spirit of LED related advice: replacing your ceiling fan bulbs with 60w LED equivalents makes a world of difference in lighting quality in the room. But so far the only candelabra LEDS I've found that don't have interference issues are the Philips bulbs. Best upgrade I did was to put Philips LEDs and the Lutron Maestro controller on all our fans. Separate control of lights and fan, and the Philips LEDs dim fairly well.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K-cuyb0AP1JZN

Philips 458687 60W Equivalent Dimmable B12 Decorative Candle LED Light Bulb with Warm Glow Effect (4-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YKS0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_daduyb5K0AK1R

Note: I tried the LOHAS bulbs and their brightness and color temp choices are excellent, but horrible interference. Couldn't operate the Lutron switches if a LOHAS bulb was switched on. If you don't have any devices where interference might matter, check out the LOHAS bulbs.

I've heard mixed reviews on the 'humidity sensor' activating switches. I'd rather go with a nice selectable timer switch, I use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/

You can make the same thing for less money if you have some plumbing knowledge.

Housing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VZ2O0Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GPTD5IY4PUZ3&coliid=I29TBOOJZKNKD9

Stage 1: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VZ2O1U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GPTD5IY4PUZ3&coliid=I3UH3UQDY1YG9G

Stage 2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IJ1GVI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GPTD5IY4PUZ3&coliid=I2WPUSYXAAJ6PS

Stage 3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JRDT96/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GPTD5IY4PUZ3&coliid=I2DR3294UM5E6K&psc=1

Just run them inline with whatever piping you're comfortable with, pex, galv, or copper will all work. 2 galv nipples between the three units and then an adapter to your other line will probably be cheapest.

Funny you mention that, I am going to be replacing the regular switch for the fan with this variable timer one

This is a great book: How Your House Works: A Visual Guide to Understanding and Maintaining Your Home, Updated and Expanded https://www.amazon.com/dp/1118099400

This is the one that I have: https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-HET06A-White-1-5-10-15-20-30-Countdown-Decorator/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=timer+switch&qid=1550149892&s=gateway&sr=8-6

It works great. The blue led's are fairly bright and would annoy me if my bathroom was attached to my bedroom.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408074214&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta

These come with one remote, but each remote can be programmed to control any number of dimmers. The dimmer works with regular screw in replacement dimmable led and CFL bulbs. Also, the dimmer does not need a neutral connection with replacing an existing switch very easy. ~$60 for a dimmer + remote kit and ~$12 for the remote.

Big fan of the snap toggles, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6HG48 they have a very cool installation technique.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0 Same line of thinking but I think Lutron's is better.

Renovation is the gold standard of books on improvement and repair, the editor is the guy who runs the Fine Homebuilding site, out of all the books I have none come close to the amount of subjects and details this book offers.

This is close to the one we have, and we are super happy with it. I suppose if we re-did our bathroom, we would get something else, but I don't see this as being a "trial."

Actually, we have this one, and I think that temp control is key.

Just a thought... Have you considered using a fan that employs both a humidity sensor and motion sensor simultaneously (e.g.)?

Alternatively, you could use a standard exhaust fan, combined with a humidity-sensing switch (e.g.). The switch contains an on/off button, so you can still control the fan manually.

Hope that the wire(s) that goes to the existing recess light are long enough to reach the new junction box. All junction boxes have to be accessible. NEC Article 100 def. Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of
being removed or exposed without damaging the building
structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. NEC 314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures
to Be Accessible. Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing
any part of the building or structure, or, in underground
circuits, without excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or
other substance that is to be used to establish the finished
grade.

You may need to place the new box to the side a few inches from where you want to, so the wires will reach. You could abandon the recess up in the attic. Another box no one has suggested using is a ceiling fan box. This will put zero load on any sheet rock patch. You might be able to come up with a way to attach the sheet rock patch to the box bar.

Not within electrical code, no. Something like this might be helpful?

Get one of these to check if you have heat gain through your home's envelope:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_uKncBbWC1NGZP

You can change any household light fixture for any other. The only issue is the footprint of the fixture. You may have to do a spackle repair or paint the area that was once covered by the fixture but no longer is. You may also have to install an appropriate mounting box depending on how the flouresenct was installed; Flourescent fixtures are typically not mounted on a box whereas flush mount fixtures are. You won't have to damage the ceiling to switch from one to the other. If it's gonna be an actual chandelier, you'll want a box that's made to handle more weight, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00027EWNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1412468766&sr=8-2
This box can be installed from below through a hole which is the same size as the box itself.

This is the guy that I bought. Any good?

Yes, especially if you're on well water you need/want a filter (not RO, just a solids filter) before the softener. The resin pellets in the softener will be destroyed by incoming silt or solids. It's cheap insurance.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007VZ2O0Q/
Is all you need. Maybe a little bigger if you have many bathrooms.

I haven't tried them myself but they may work in your existing holes. If not maybe another toggle style. Other than that I think you may have to patch the in some fresh sheet rock behind the speaker.

12 Pieces TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 80 pounds each by TOGGLER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU6HG48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HKRCAbX1MYTJD

Here (reddit in general) is not the place to educate yourself on basic electrical principles. This is a good book: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/159186612X

you could use that shrink wrap window insulation and just cover the whole thing up. i used this, for one window it would take about 15m and a hair dryer, easy peasy.

If it's airtight, you're good. Otherwise, spend the few bucks and get a kit. They're cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-281504/dp/B000NHY1P0

I got this one. I thought the time selection was better.

I bought this one this past year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/

Works good. You can take photos, videos with their app.

And in case you run out of battery mid-use, you can also use it while it is plugged in via USB charging.

This device wires into one switch. The second switch is a remote control that can either be mounted in a box (no wiring, it's RF) or used like any other remote. I saw it on a This Old House video.

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-P-PKG1W-WH/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1527002725&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2800162011

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtFpmDkQus

Get a bag of food grade diatomaceous earth with a pest duster and go around and spray it around all of the baseboards inside of your house. DE is safe for kids and pets, but is toxic to anything with an exoskeleton.

Once it's under the baseboards, you can sweep up the excess. Be careful using a vacuum with it as it may clog the filters.

Do you have a temp gun like this.

I ask because I have a similar setup, but my crawl space does not really get that warm so the floor is always a little cold. In my case the floor is always a few degrees colder then the house, and I have to wear socks.

Yep, the Neo 320, never look back haha

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jz2iDb8K9DFPZ

This is the easiest answer. Look at Lutron caseta. You can pair a switch to a small remote that you can then wall mount. Caseta doesn't require a neutral. Pairing it with a remote doesn't require a hub.

They're sold as kits even:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/

I highly recommend How Your House Works: A Visual Guide to Understanding and Maintaining Your Home.

It explains all the basic home ownership maintenance stuff in very simple terms, with pictures and easy-to-follow explanations.

Do yourself a favor and buy/read this book first.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Guide-Wiring/dp/159186612X

You shouldn't need to cut the ceiling. I installed a fan in my living room by moving the old can light out of the way and using a screw type fan box. And I have no attic access above my living room.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=screw+fan+box&qid=1562467536&s=hi&sr=1-1

​

You should be able to do it all through that hole.

has anyone tried with success to use a Temperature Gun? I'm thinking of picking up one and try it https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523456285&sr=8-3&keywords=temperature+gun

>Is there a way to take my electrical outlet and just unscrew it and put it in the wall and patch it up?

I'm not following you here. Are you saying you want to hide an outlet in the wall and patch over it? Anywhere you have live wire terminals or splices, you need an accessible outlet box or junction box (i.e. not covered by drywall).

>I googled this but most tutorials have my power cord going in behind the mounted tv, and popping out at the bottom.

This is a no-no, the cord that comes with the TV isn't rated for in-wall use. You either need to install an outlet behind the TV to hide it, or use a 3rd party product such as a Powerbridge.

Motion sensors are probably the best way to go, as others have said, but I'll offer a different alternative. This switch has a built-in timer that you can set for 1, 5, 10, 15, 20 or 30 minutes. There's also other timer switches out there, some of which can even be programmed.

If you have old thin windows check into something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window--210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0/

A quick Google search found me these anchors. I would recommend trying to drill and install the anchor through both the drywall and plaster if you can. The extra length, and anchoring to the back of the plaster, should make them much sturdier.

If I understand correctly, you have a 3-way switch setup controlling the light/fan, where there's two switches that control the same fixture. This shouldn't be an issue if you swapped the light for the fan wiring it the same way.

Did you change anything at the switch? Have you flipped both switches to make sure it's on?(had to ask)

I'd check there's still power getting to the red wire in the ceiling box, you can get a non-contact voltage tester, or a multimeter for <$20.

If you still have power controlled by the switches, I'd try bypassing the controller for the remote. There should be 4 wires going into it, ground(bare or green), neutral(white), fan power(black), and light power(blue). Tie the black and blue wires together with the red in the box, and the rest normally.

If you are not super comfortable with electricity and wiring, and there's power getting to the red wire in the ceiling, just return the fan for a new one, as that's what you'd have to do anyway if the controller is bad.

Side note: Always turn off the breaker when working on your wiring, and you should switch the ceiling box for one that's meant to support a fan. Depending on where the original box is in relation to the joists, you want one like this or this. The plastic ones that are nailed to the side of the joist offer to much movement. Not only will it wear the bearings in the motor prematurely, but you risk it falling.

This makes me nervous to place an electric stove right where a gas one is, so to do it right and prevent your house from potentially exploding
I would cap the end of the pipes properly with a pipe cap](http://www.homedepot.com/s/pipe%2520dope?NCNI-5) and some pipe dope.

For the electric, I would expect the existing line there (if there is one) is a 15 or 20 amp line and outlet, tied back to a 15/20 amp circuit breaker. You will need to add a (most likely, check the oven you want) 40 amp circuit breaker, new 40-amp wires, and 40 amp outlet. All of that will need a permit and follow code.

You can pull the permit and do it yourself, get it inspected, etc. I recommend the Black & Decker: Complete Guide to Wiring.

I'm a big fan of the Black and Decker book, read it cover to cover.

I just added this switch. I think its 2hat your describing.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XplxCbBR8Y0D3

keeping bathroom door closed and a fan timer helped us.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J6suybNS0VGGY

Get this book. Very simple visual explanations of what is involved in the systems that make up your home. It won't teach you how to do everything, but it will give you a solid grasp of the fundamentals of a wide range of subjects.

They sell solutions for this that (I assume) are up to code.

Take a look at THIS.

I used the previous version of this book..

https://www.amazon.com/Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated-Edition/dp/159186612X

I also had assistance from posters at WoodNet forums where there (at the time) were several electricians that would answer questions. I would assume this forum or others would be able to answer code questions.

Most questions I had were just to confirm my understanding and in material selection. The hardest questions I had were in dealing with the design of two sub panels, one with a lockable disconnect to keep machines from being used when not using the shop (safety for kiddos). I also upgraded my main panel to 200 amps. All of it was very straightforward to do. The only difficulty I had with any of the work was in finding quality materials. Most of the materials at the home store are “builder grade”, and at least my Home Depot and Lowe’s did not stock a lot of the higher quality materials so I ordered them in from supply houses. I lived in an area where the supply houses would not sell to homeowners. Lighting was a similar challenge because I wanted to have a very bright garage and finding quality T8 ballast/fixture combos locally was impossible, so I had to buy a few sample fixtures from online suppliers, evaluate them and return those I did not like.

Still dangerous especially when there are alternate solutions that are available that are inexpensive and easy.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Recessed-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6

Metal studs can hold shear weight well with sheet metal screws. May need to predrill if you don't have good metal screws.

Hanging something like a TV which has a lot of pullout force might require wood blocking behind the drywall or something like a toggle-lock or toggler to back the thin metal.

This will largely depend on the type of shelf you install. For example with a typical shelf bracket the bottom screw will have more shear force, and the top will have more pullout force.

The lack of ventilation would point to negligence. Negligence type events aren't typically covered, it doesn't matter if you didn't know. This is a common book people recommend for first time home owners. A house isn't typically cheaper than rent, its just not throwing away your money since at the end you have something to sell. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1118099400?pc_redir=1397706695&robot_redir=1

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

The book:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/159186612X

Electrical : Wiring a House: 5th Edition (For Pros By Pros) https://www.amazon.com/dp/162710674X

For future reference, they make circuit testers that work even through wiring insulation.

You can use one of these to test if the line in the wall is still live. Push it in the hole you made and it should light up. Then turn off breakers one by one until the light on the sensor turns off.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

Just be aware that these don't with with LED's

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

how many windows you got?, i did an entire house for around 20 bucks with this

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

Absolutely. They actually make window plastic kits.

For example, Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-5-Window-62-Inch-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

This is the water hardness test kit we use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FM7WLU/ . It's slightly more expensive than the test strips, but it's a lifetime supply.

https://www.amazon.ca/PowerBridge-Solutions-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6

They are called power bridges. They are available many places, are code compliant and can be installed without an electrician in about 20-30 min

Running the cables of this thing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWGZKF6

"PowerBridge ONE-CK Recessed In-Wall Cable Management System with PowerConnect for Wall-Mounted Flat Screen LED, LCD, and Plasma TV’s"

Here is a wall switch that also senses humidity.

is this the kind of humidistat you were referring to?

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G83iDbZV34G40

Add these

https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HH9PZAHVK79YMX24J3RR

Depstech Wireless Endoscope, WiFi Borescope Inspection Camera 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and IOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet - Black(11.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_na01AbWNKMD9E

Try an endoscope camera: [https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=164P4GSXNLMJH&keywords=depstech+wifi+endoscope&qid=1554679695&s=gateway&sprefix=depstec&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1]

I’ve always heard that if it can hold a square of toilet paper, then it’s working. It could be as simple as it’s not running for long enough, I leave mine off during my shower, but let it run for ~20 min after. You can get a simple timer switch and let it run after you get out.
Enerlites HET06A-White 1-5-10-15-20-30 Minutes Preset In-Wall Countdown Timer Switch, w Decorator Wall Plate, White

I suppose I should have done that initially, lol.

3x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VZ2O0Q/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JRDT96/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IJ1GVI/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VZ2O1U/

Then just whatever copper/PVC/PEX fittings you need to make it happen. I guess a bit over $100 but the filters drive that cost up a little and last ~3 months each so each pack is a half years worth.

I plumbed mine with a bypass too so I could bypass the filters for maintenance or if I had problems of if I'm doing a lot of outside watering (power washing).

EDIT: Pic here https://imgur.com/7ukQ9p4.jpg

Ditch the plastic box, it's not meant for a fan. Depending on the setup, you can use this without ripping down drywall or going into the attic. I've used three of these in my house:

Westinghouse Lighting 0110000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 3 Teeth, Twist and Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_14UxzbKEG8QQ8

I don't trust those plastic ones with 2 nails. This is much better;http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412997716&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+box

There is no "common setting." You need to figure out how hard your water is. I'd recommend this kit since it's very accurate and not too expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Hach-145300-Total-Hardness-Model/dp/B008FM7WLU

Otherwise, your municipality probably has a water report that you can lookup online or request from them that might have hardness information.

If you just want the softener to work, set it to 50 and see if you end up with any hard water before it regenerates. If so, adjust up as needed. If not, adjust down until you find the right number. A higher number won't hurt anything, it will just waste salt.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is the answer to these and other little devils. Leave it down for a few days to make sure the eggs hatch and the offspring are also ripped to shreds I say.

I think it's roughly every 3 months, but filters are cheap. It also depends how much water you use and how dirty your water is. I think if you have well water a lot of people uses a 3 filter system. The first filter is a 10 micron then 2nd is a 5 micro the 3rd is a carbon filter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007VZ2O0Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1518883549&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Water+filter+system&dpPl=1&dpID=41Nn7qeHteL&ref=plSrch

First, get a test kit. test your water for hardness.

https://www.amazon.com/Hach-145300-Total-Hardness-Model/dp/B008FM7WLU

should be <1

you should only need to add salt when it runs low. Put two 40 lb bags in every few months. if you have plenty of salt and your water is testing hard after a backwash, you have an issue with the softener that requires service.

We're redoing electric in our house, and the only advice I can give is do not trust any labels unless you've tested it yourself twice. We made an updated wiring map of our house using walkie-talkies and a no-touch tester. There was no logic to the map whatsoever. Half the house turned out to be wired from one 12A breaker. One room had outlets attached to 5 different breakers. Double-taps and duct-taped wires everywhere... It's going to be a long project.

> I would NOT recommend using a multi-meter to see if the wires are hot.

Why not? Also, you can use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O as the url, you don't have to add all that extra crap to it

This is a bit of a drop in the bucket, but one thing I haven't seen yet is that even if an electronic is turned off, it's still pulling a small amount of electricity. What I've done with a few areas of my house is plug everything into a surge protector (this should be done anyways for expensive electronics) and unplug them completely when you're not going to use them for hours at a time. My PC setup is unplugged for about 18 hours of the day then.


Another option is to see if there are "peak" times your electric company charges more since everyone is using the electricity. Try and avoid doing laundry / dishes around these times.


Move to LED bulbs. They're roughly $2.00 / bulb at this point.

When I added insulation to my attic, my utility company reimbursed 75% of the cost of the material. I found out about this from a free energy audit along with other initiatives that they would reimburse.

You could also try spotting your own leaks with: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487044338&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=laser+thermometer&psc=1

Diatomaceous Earth - spread around the perimeter of your house and along baseboards inside where you’ve seen them.

Tempo SC Ultra - spray trails in the yard or around the perimeter

Terro Bait Traps - place along trails inside the house, in cupboards/cabinets, expect this to get worse before it gets better (i.e. tons of ants come over a couple of days and then they die off)

There are a bunch of tips here on sealing gaps to prevent infiltration. I used one of these to find out where the worst spots were that cold air was coming in. Just point and shoot! If you are trying to save some $$$ then targeting the worst areas should give you the best bang for the buck.

Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XkjXBb2ZTAQV1

It's kinda like this one, but the newer updated one from Depstech.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NOX4Cb8BDMV4S

It shows for $35.99 and the updated one is $60 but my dad had a code from the company that we got it for $35 for the newer one. I thought it was a dead bird at first too

This'll kill them. You might not need that much so shop around but its safe for humans (just dont huff it) and it kills bugs by damaging their exoskeleton.

Fucking ants. I've been battling various types of these jerks for a while now.

The first go-round was with some ants that were burrowing under my front walk (brick). I kind of blew it off until they displaced so much dirt that the bricks started shifting. I tried a couple different things but Terro Ant Bait killed them in 24 hours. I sprinkled the granules and the ants immediately starting taking them into the colony. The next morning my walk was covered with hundreds of dead ants. They haven't been back since (1 year and counting).

My current battle is with some leaf cutter ants. These guys only eat leaves so traditional ant baits and poisons don't really work. This colony has decimated one of my new planted trees. The only thing that keeps them at bay is a combination of Boric Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, cayenne pepper and cinnamon. The boric acid has been covered already. The Diatomaceous Earth is basically a powder that acts as razor blades on the ants exoskeleton. The cayenne pepper and cinnamon are just a last resort because I'm at my wits end. I cover a 2'-3' radius from the ant hill with everything listed. I check on it every week or two and reapply when I see an ant creeping around.

Good luck with your ants. They sure can be a pain in the ass.