>I've gotten around this by plugging my own router into the ISP's router and having that be my network, and disabling FIOS's Wifi.

You're still using the VZ router as your main router this way. Unless you bridged it, did you or did you simply turn off the wifi? Disabling the wifi does nothing to your network.

To be completely honest this sounds like it's way over your head. But it's great if you want to learn. If you do here's what your set up should really look like.

• A dedicated router. Not a wireless router, not a all in one appliance. A router. We around here really like the features and price of the Edge Router Lite. This will allow you to create separate vLANs, one for the main network, one for the security cameras, one for a guest network. vLANs are virtual separate networks, this is a great security feature for internal networks. Setting something like this router up and vLANs is not for the network newby. It's not that difficult but you do need a sound understanding of how networks are set up.
  
  
• A switch to distribute the LAN. TrendNet has some good unmanaged switches. If you want to play with vLANs you may want a smart switch though. I have an HP smart switch but there are other companies that may be better.
  
  
• An AP (Access Point). This is what creates your wifi, that is it's sole responsibility. We here all recommend Ubiquiti's Unifi line of products and yes, I have one as well.
  
  If you subscribe to FiOS TV, then you also need a pair of MoCA adapters per STB. Yea this is starting to rack up that bill really fast. But again, this is an ideal set up. And it will take a moderate home networker to set it up.
  
  So I'm not sure if you're up to the task. If all you want is some cameras, get yourself a switch. Call up VZ and ask them to bridge the router. Then set up your router as the main. To read how to do this and other options with that router if you have FiOS TV, read this.

I've been managing the network for our house with at least 9 people and upwards of 15 devices. Half are gamers, the other half stream netflix, etc. I've gone through 5 routers with multiple firmware over the last 8 years. The home routers (even high performance "gaming" routers) choked under the load. The only all in one router that got close was an Apple Time Capsule (Airport Extreme + wireless Time Machine backup drive.) Unfortunately while it makes a beastly good AP, it's pretty bad at being a router.

Nowadays I use an Edgerouter with a Gigabit switch. The network has been near flawless since. I'm using a couple old routers as APs (the Time Capsule as the primary), the only issue is AP handoffs don't work very well on some devices. I'm about to upgrade to some UniFis, which should fix that issue, but don't support 5ghz.

Basically, my recommendation for a small house with lots of users that needs dual band is Edgerouter + Airport Express = $190

• I have never actually used an Express, but it appears the only difference is a lack of gigabit ports and 802.11ac support. My Time Capsule is old enough that it's only N, and it's still gives rock solid wireless.
  
• If you have Mac owners, I would HIGHLY recommend pooling to upgrade the Airport to a Time Capsule, those automatic 24/7 backups can be lifesaving. As soon as the Mac connects to the network it starts backing up, a new Mac can restore the entire system from a Time Machine backup in one click, or just access old files that were changed/deleted.
  
• If you can run CAT6 or CAT5e to as many stationary devices as possible, that would reduce the load on the wireless. For that, these babies are particularly nice and cheap.
  
• For media sharing, you can upgrade the Express to [Airport Extreme] (http://smile.amazon.com/Apple-AirPort-Extreme-Station-ME918LL/dp/B00DB9WCR6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416366278&sr=1-2&keywords=airport) (or Time Capsule), use an old router as a NAS, or get a dedicated device; those would let computers access it. For consoles or other devices, you would probably need a DLNA server (Windows media sharing is DLNA I believe.) The best solution is to setup a HTPC near the projector or dedicate a wired desktop to act as the server.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!

Yeah, MoCA would definitely be the best option but I don't think it would be that plausible with the location of my coaxial outlets. The Orbi is pushing the budget a little bit, but at the end of the day, I think I'll bite the bullet and try this out, and if it ends up sucking Amazon has a great return policy.

Now I know you mentioned how Google WiFi is just managed extenders above, so I assume that means you think I'd be better off going with the Orbi? They're both close to $300, so I want to make sure I'm going with the best choice here. If it makes any difference, these networks are pretty much gonna be only used for Hue, Google Home, and Alexa, and Phones and tablets and maybe the occasional laptop, never really for gaming or VoIP. Gaming and VoIP will be through the powerlines.

And when it comes to the powerline adapters I have setup currently, should I just keep using those, upgrade them, or move to wireless? I have one of the powerlines hooked up to a TP-Link Switch, and I don't know if that's a no-no either, or a bottleneck on my speeds. I know they aren't optimal, but I think its the best option I have for stability. And when I upgrade, should I leave those plugged into the modem, or to the new APs?

Thanks so much once again!

I browsed what a lot of other people said, take my information with a grain of salt, I work in IT and do construction build outs and surveillance and security as an all in one consulting shop, my background is in cisco.

Suggestion 1: Ubiquiti

Suggestion 2: Get a decent router, and put your ISP modem into Bridge mode. I'm a huge fan of mikrotik but it's kind of expensive, or the Ubiquiti version

Suggestion 3: If you're going to hard wire EVERYTHING add a gigabit switch in to the last gigabit port on the router, place anything not critical on that switch, if you're going with cameras and AP's, I suggest a Ubiquiti POE Switch But it's VERY Expensive, I'll detail reasons why it's pretty neat to stay with ubiquiti the whole way, but if that's too expensive you can go with this

Suggestion 4: Pick up a shelf and some velcro and a nice power strip or battery backup to organize all this

Suggestion 5: Unifi AP's
Dual Band AC Lite
in wall ap
cloud management

Suggestion 6: Unifi Cameras
all listed here

Or LTS Cameras, but good luck finding them cheap, I'm a vendor and get them for sub 100$

Why sticking with ubiquiti is neat:

All your equipment (except cameras) will show up in the dashboard, your router, your switch and your ap's will all be visible and manageable from a single location (a web page). Granted, I'm not sure it's worth that 400$ switch, but unless you ABSOLUTELY need POE at the switch, you could go with the less expensive edgeswitch, which I want to say is only 200$

Answer: If you use TRUE Wireless Access Points and routers not repurposed as WAP's then they receive an IP on your lan and work as an interface and only pass traffic from wireless devices to your primary dhcp server/router.

It would work as so

Modem > Router > Switch > Camera

And

Modem > Router > Switch > Wap >> Wireless connection >> Devices.


A switch is just a digital splitter for your network, at the most simplest of explanations. and a WAP is simply a translator from wireless to ethernet.

>
>Any advice/experience is greatly appreciated!




A few things.

If you guys are trying to save money, downgrade your service from "Ultimate 300" to something closer to "Regular 100" or whatever that 100 Mbit tier is. From your description, you're needs are more than covered by a more modest plan.

BUT, if you do decide to downgrade your service, ask them for a free modem before you do so! That way, they'll give you a beefier one that can support the Ultimate 300 plan. I like the Arris models, but if they are giving it to you for free, take any model they offer. Then downgrade your plan.

Separating modem and router is preferred because it gives you flexibility on where to place the router independent of modem location. Even if they stay close together, you have better stability dividing the work over two machines rather than over tasking one machine that has to do it all.

Here is a router I've been recommending a lot recently, which happens to cost just under $60:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-MU-MIMO-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8

It has really good specs for that price, and I've installed this exact model in multiple friends' homes, and they are all pleased with its performance and range. The only downside is that it does NOT support custom firmware like "ASUS Merlin" like other ASUS routers, but that is why they are so inexpensive for such good hardware. If you don't care about third party firmware, and just want to set it up once and forget it, this it's a solid router.

Tell your dad he'll recoupe the cost in just six months, and only losers rent equipment from their ISPs. And that you want to split all the money you are saving with a downgraded 100Mbit plan.

Not all-inclusive, still need some physical cables and such, but hopefully this is a starting point:

16-port gig switch: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AC7I/ Probably overkill but a few more ports doesn't cost all THAT much more and this leaves you plenty of room for expansion. Also managed so can setup VLANs, QoS, whatever.

Router: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ These are solid for home and small business use. Config can be a little tricky if you are using any of the advanced features but plenty of throughput (1 million pps). Also supports VLANs if you want to spin up a guest wifi later.

Wireless AP: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ This supports multiple SSIDs on different VLANs and offers really solid performance for not a ton of money. From the physical space you listed below I'm thinking one should me more than enough.

Cable modem: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/ I know you said this wasn't finalized but thought I would toss it in anyway. Don't skimp here, a low-end modem will really limit throughput and can crash under heavy-load. Whatever you go with make sure it's on your ISPs compatibility list! They may not support it if not.

That should put a total around $512 USD or so JUST FOR HARDWARE. Keep in mind this is a pretty basic setup but should serve as a starting point. You'll still need the physical cabling and someone able to set it all up. As mentioned earlier also this is only MY BEST GUESS as to what you will need. Please don't take this as your bible or anything like that. :)

I know I mentioned it before but I really don't mind helping set things up if needed. I'm not going to be your "call at 3AM tech guy" but if you need a bit here and there I can try to assist. :) Let me know if you have any questions or thoughts on the build. Cheers!

EDIT: Something else to keep in mind that's not really network related is backups. YOU NEED THIS. Even if you go with a cloud service like carbonite or whatever, you need to make sure the PCs have regular backups. You WILL have a hard drive die and need to pull a backup from somewhere.

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

​

2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

​

​

MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

​

At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

​

(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

​

(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

​

(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

​

(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

​

(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

You seem to be confused by marketing nonsense started at Linksys after Bill Gates suggested the phrase. There are two main integrated components here. One is the router (really a router + switch) and the other is the wifi access point.

You should return the model that you purchased. The best quality router that I could suggest would be the Ubiquiti ER-X, $50 and it has no integrated wifi access point. The reason why it is he best is due to the smart queue, which helps with bufferbloat. That does not solve your actual problem, but it makes as much sense as talking about stronger routers and makes my point that your wifi AP is a separate function that should be treated separately. Before I address that m, I should say that you will not regret getting the ER-X if you decide to do it. Its smart queue will fix the issue of web pages being slow when you are downloading things that you probably blamed on your ISP.

As for fixing your wifi, you will probably want multiple access points configured to use the same SSID and encryption. Then place them at strategic locations on your property and configure them to use non-overlapping channels. That will allow roaming between APs and allow your Netflix streams to go over the nearest one without causing one to step on another. Multiple Unifi AC Lite APs at $70 each would work nicely.

If for some reason you do not want to do that, you could try buying a used Ruckus Zoneflex 7982 off eBay. They get far better range than other access points due to their antenna array that does advanced beamforming and custom radio that had higher RX sensitivity than other radios. I have been testing one and I can get 140Mbps on 5GHz from about 40ft away with 4 to 5 ft of (drywall) walls in between my laptop and the AP. If you buy one, you will need to purchase a power supply separately because they do not come with them. They are mostly meant to be powered by 802.11af PoE and there are cheap adapters that you can buy to provide that. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

You could be looking at ~$110 for the AP and a power supply. Note that those APs are EOL, despite being the best in the world 5 years ago. That is why you can purchase them used off eBay for between $90 to $120 rather than their original MSRP of $1099. They still work well. I gave one to my uncle for Christmas and set it up for him. A few days later, I asked him how he liked it and he replied it was the best Christmas present ever. He went across the street from his house and had a weak, but usable 2.4GHz signal on his phone. At 2.4GHz, it covers his entire property and likely his next door neighbor's entire property too. If I had to guess, his property is something between 150ft by 150ft and 200ft by 200ft. The Ruckus is located on top of a tall piece of furniture on the second floor to try to minimize obstructions.

That said, your mileage can vary, but either of the APs I suggested work nicely (especially if you go with multiple ones). In my experience, one centrally placed Ruckus zoneflex 7982 will cover the same area as two Unifi AC Lite APs, although top speeds are lower near the AP because the zoneflex 7982 is 802.11n while the Unifi APs are 802.11ac. I would expect the Unifi AP speeds to fall below the Ruckus unit at 25 ft with a couple feet of wall in between, although I did not verify it. I just know that they only do 110Mbps at about 30ft with 3 to 4 ft of wall and the Ruckus does 140Mbps at about 40ft with 4 to 5ft of wall. I did not explicitly measure distance and thickness, so those numbers are approximate and more accurate taken relatively than absolutely.

> I'm having an electrician come out to run Cat6 throughout my house. The idea is to have 6 pulls in the office/game room, 6 in the living room/media room, and 2 in each of 3 bedrooms.

Sounds good, but you'll also want drops for your APs. These go to the spots on your ceiling where you'll mount your APs, and the locations depend on the layout if your house. If you have one large spread out floor you'll want at least two that are fairly far apart and in rooms with heavy Wi-Fi use. If you have multiple floors you'll want one per floor, each centrally located. You don't need to run power to these as well as the APs will use PoE (power over ethernet).

> The cables will be terminated using RJ45 connectors on both ends. One end in pass-through faceplates on the walls and the other will terminate in a pass-through patch panel in a network rack. This will then hook into a Netgear Switch (linked below).

Don't do this. All permanently installed cables should terminate at punch-downs at both ends. Punch-down keystone jacks at one end and a punch-down patch panel at the other. Punch-down terminations are easier and quicker than RJ45 terminations and work better. The cable itself needs to be solid core copper, no CCA (copper clad aluminum) and no stranded cable. The only exception is the AP drops, these terminate in an RJ45 plug that will connect directly to the AP. Cat6 is fine as long as all your drops are under 180 ft.

> Second, is there anything I can do to lose the Verizon router if I plan to still use their television package? I may drop it in the future, but for now we plan to keep it.

Absolutely. You just get a MoCA adapter and connect it between your coaxial lines (just use the line that was previously connected to your Verizon router) and an Ethernet port on your switch/router. Before you install this you'll want to make sure to have Ethernet cable run from your ONT to your router and have your ONT set to use Ethernet rather than Coax for internet. This will not affect your TV service, and will already be the case if your service is 100 megabit or faster. Getting it done just requires a quick phone call to Verizon, but have the ONT to router ethernet cable in place before you do this.

> Third, is there any benefit to getting a different router if our wireless use is limited? We do a lot of gaming and a lot of people suggest getting a gaming router, but can I have 2 routers on the network? I don't fully understand what the second would do or how to use it for everything but TV usage?

Any typical home network always has exactly one router. The purpose of a router isn't to provide Wi-Fi, it's to act as a gateway and traffic cop between your network and the internet. It allows multiple devices to use a single internet connection, gives IP addresses to devices on the network, and blocks unwanted incoming traffic. Only one device, the device directly connected to your internet connection, can do these jobs.

The device that provides Wi-Fi is an Access Point or AP. A "wireless router" is just a router with an AP built in. In your case, you'll want to use dedicated APs. I already went over where they should be located and the cable that needs to be run to them. You do not need a PoE switch to power them, each one comes with a PoE injector.

As for the actual router, this will be your best choice. This is a router only, it is not a switch and it is not an AP. You just connect the WAN port to your ONT and the LAN port to your switch. It works particularly well with the APs I linked, as they're all on the UniFi platform they're all controlled with the same UniFi Controller software.

Here's my setup, which is pretty similar to what I'm proposing:

ONT. Nothing too special here, just notice that the Ethernet port is hooked up and the MoCA light is off, indicating the internet connection is not using the coaxial cable. The Coaxial cable goes to a 2-way splitter, one cable from it goes to the MoCA adapter (it used to go to the Verizon router when I used one), the other goes to a 4-way splitter, cables from there go to the cable boxes.

Front view of network gear. That's an EdgeRouter Lite at the top, it has the same hardware as the UniFi Security Gateway but uses its own web-based GUI rather than the UniFi Controller. Practically the same thing. The left port on it goes to the ONT, the right one goes to the switch at the bottom. In the middle is the patch panel, a punch-down one.

Rear view of network gear. There's a lot going on here. The back of the switch can be seen in the middle, above it are all the lines leading to the back of the patch panel and the outlet/surge protector. The MoCA adapter is at the top left, this takes the place of the Verizon router's MoCA hardware to give internet access to the cable boxes. At the top right are two PoE injectors for two UniFi APs.

A UniFi AP. Please ignore the wallpaper, it's not my decision. The Ethernet cable runs directly to one of the PoE injectors in the previous picture, then a short Ethernet cable connects the PoE injector to the switch. No other cable runs to the AP. The other AP is on the floor above. Mine are wall-mounted and work just fine, but they're designed to be ceiling mounted and will work better that way.

I personally would buy another router. You can easily do what /u/michrech said but it seems like you don't like the prices (which I understand).

So yes searching "wireless routers" is a good term because 9 times out of 10 wireless routers have at least 4 ports on them. If I was in your position I would buy this router, or even this one. I linked these two because I have personally used them and i haven't had any issues with them.

Configuration wise, these routers should have a "Wireless AP" mode. Which will turn off the routers DHCP and just work off your main one, if you said you're running Cat5 cable (hopefully Cat5e).

The other configuration option you can do is to login into whichever router you get and turn off the DHCP server and then only plug ethernet cables into the 1-4 ports and NOT the WAN port. This will simply extend your existing router DHCP range to this new one. So you have options.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Both configuration options I listed do the exact same thing...just different ways of doing them.

EDIT 2: I just now saw the second option /u/michrech listed and that does seem like a very viable option. Especially if you don't have a basic understanding of how to access a router's login page. It's probably a more plug and play option.

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/ ). So here's an one adapter for $20 https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

• UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  
• PoE Injector - $20
  
• USG - $130
  
• Cloudkey - $80
  
• Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?
  
  And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.
  
  If we do the other brands:
  
  
• TP-Link 1750 - $80
  
• TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  
• We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60
  
  Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!
  
  So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?

Some general thoughts.

You included a map. AMAZING.

1. You should be able to "convert" coax to ethernet. MoCA 2.0 Bonded Adapters work wonders and basically give full ethernet speed(~16x as fast as your internet). They work so long as the coax is not being used by satellite TV. If you're using satellite TV along that run, the DECA is the next best thing. DECA is 1/8th the speed but cheap kits can be had on amazon for $20 (still ~2x as fast as your internet). If you aren't doing network transfers either works. For 90% of people it's pretty much plug two adapters in and you're done. It's almost like magic. For the remaining 10%... MoCA filters, maybe fiddling with the 500 splits some cable-guy rushed into place 20 years ago, etc. Let me emphasize, it's pretty awesome, there's a reason why the reviews on the products are so awesome.
   https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ (you'll likely need 2)
   https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ (this is a paired kit)
   latency associated with MoCA is ~3ms; latency from Wifi is 3-100ms. MoCA tends to be VERY consistent.
   
   
   
2. A switch is a switch to some extent. I generally buy whatever is cheap from TP-Link or netgear. As long as it's gigabit.
   
3. The best way to improve your wifi is to probably add on another access point (or router repurposes as an AP) and set it with the same network name(SSID) and password
   https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/
   
4. Flat ethernet cable is worse. At the same price, go for full, round ethernet... with that said, if being flat allows you to "get away" with it, it'll often work. I personally have used flat cables without issue and it often goes a long way with getting others to "approve". If your walls are white or you already have an existing cable... it disappears.
   

Yes, Cat 6a solid for inside the walls, CM rated is best (not really 100% necessary, unless you want to be fire code compliant), but definitely shielded, as there are power lines running in most walls which would affect.

You then want stranded (instead of solid) for the cable from the patch panel to the switch. Honestly it's not really necessary, but it fits a RJ-45 a bit better (stranded = many little strands, so that when the piece of metal is crimped down onto it, it pierces the wire, and makes an easier connection than a solid wire that could crack and split).

Monoprice doesn't seem to have read the memo about cat 6a for some reason, but amazon has. This cable here should do you fine.

 

Links to the ERL and the Unifi AP for convenience and anybody reading.

 

Oh this reminds me, which one of the APs are you looking to get? There is the standard one, linked above, then the LR, the PRO, and the AC.

I would either go for the normal one that is ~$70 or the PRO, as the pro has both 2.4 and 5 Ghz (the normal only has 2.4) and it has a faster speed (450 on 2.4 Ghz and 300 on 5Ghz). It depends what your wireless requirements are.

I went for the normal one as I don't use wireless much at all, I prefer a wired Desktop to being able to move around, and use wireless only for mobile devices.

Two options to accomplish the goal:

(1) use a Wi-Fi bridge to convert the upstream wireless network into a wired input that can be plugged into a traditional Wi-Fi router WAN port;

(2) use a router or other device that supports WISP (wireless ISP) mode, where it will connect via Wi-Fi to the upstream network, and then provide you with a protected segment behind the free wireless segment. Example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO/

Good luck!


PS - contrary to somebody's reply in this thread, yes, you can use double-NAT. There isn't really a limit to the number of times traffic can run through NAT. NAT = Network Address Translation, where the IP address (and often the TCP/UDP port number) of the client device is rewritten to a different, outside-facing address. The NAT gateway maintains a session table to ensure returning packets are passed back to the correct client device. Inbound conversations only work if there is a manual mapping performed, or the gateway has advanced application inspection to determine the optimal client device to pass a new incoming session toward (still requires at least one outbound initiation from the client device).


In this specific thread, inbound services are already limited due to not controlling the first position (upstream) where NAT is performed. Adding additional NAT gateways works fine for outbound services (e.g. web browsing) where your client device initiates the connection to a remote resource.


Using a NAT router behind a NAT router will work for web browsing, emails, Netflix streaming, many games, etc. Any multi-player game that requires a special config on the router to allow incoming traffic likely won't work, which is generally limited to older titles.

Came here to suggest something similar. Assuming OP has decent enough bandwidth at home, you could set up a little RaspberryPi as a Wireguard (or OpenVPN/PiVPN Server) and work around network restrictions that way.

As others have mentioned, you'll need a way to route traffic within your dorm room. This could be anything from your PC with multiple NICs and network sharing enabled, to an old/unused PC running OPNsense/pfSense, or an unused router flashed with DDWRT.

I don't know what your budget is for this project, but I'm a really big fan of these little Edgerouters, which could do everything you want, and more. They have a built in switch chip, so the ER-X can be used in multiple configurations. Some combination of the aforementioned should work wonders. If nothing else, it'll give you tons of stuff to research and learn, and the ER-X would still be valuable after college, either as a router upgrade, or even a (managed) switch.

Good luck this semester, study hard. Holler if you get stuck with anything. You got this. This sounds like the Great Firewall you find yourself behind.

Yes that should sort your problem out. I don't know what type of budget your on or what plans are available to you but upgrading your internet speed would help as well. I would absolutely recommend getting your own router in either case.

I have the Asus AC1300 (https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-MU-MIMO-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8) and it has some nice QoS settings on it. Feel free to shop around or ask for other recommendations though. Its pretty straightforward to set up.

So the adapters I've found are apparently Moca 1.0. Where is a good place to get moca 2.0? Or do I not need it for my speeds?I pretty much just need 2 basic adapters, no range extension or anything.

Edit: Apparently the adapters I've found are moca 1.1. They are [ http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG] (here). I'm just worried it isn't what I want, but the reviews are great and it seems like it'd be perfect for my apartment. Any input would be appreciated.

>The UAP-AC Pro is a good choice, especially where you want to cover three floors, the best spot would be on the 2nd floor, as close to the middle of the floor (front to back) as practicable.

Thanks a lot for the advice. The other day, the wiring technician who came to fix my cable told me something appalling. He said Wifi signal only goes downwards so I shall place AP on the top floor. It's BS right? I thought Wifi signal goes in all directions just like regular radio signal.

However, I am having some second thoughts due to other comments in this thread. Is it better to have a Pro on 2nd floor or 1 AC-lite on 1st floor AND 2nd floor?

> especially in a router/firewall configuration.

Would you care to explain to a newbie what that is please?

> A better candidate would be an ER-Lite or ER-4.

Thanks. Is this okay?

> but these are few and far between for a simple NAT firewall.

Would you explain this sentence again please? Not quite following. Is NAT firewall a must for home network?

Thanks again.

Get two Amplifi HD Routers or Google WiFi Pucks wired together using two MOCA Ethernet Adapters. Those would serve you well for your apartment. I say this because I’m guessing you have cable outlets in your computer room for the cable modem and outlets in the living room for a TV.

With a MOCA adapter and Amplifi HD or Google WiFi Puck setup in each of those locations you would see 450mbps speeds near the routers, and good WiFi signal throughout the apartment with gigabit wired Ethernet available in the Computer Room and Living Room.

I’ve had great luck with my Amplifi HD system (3 routers) and with Google WiFi.

Both are easy setup and give you great WiFi speeds but realize that no system aside from unreleased 802.11AX routers will give you gigabit speeds wirelessly.

Ethernet wired Google WiFi pucks and Amplifi HD routers give me around 450mbps max. That’s about the best you can get until the 802.11AX stuff comes to market and even then your devices won’t be able to use it.

If you choose to setup Google WiFi or Amplifi systems using the wireless mesh, speeds will be further reduced (220mbps or less depending on signal). Nevertheless that should be more than adequate for what you listed for your uses.

Amplifi is running a special right now for $100 off for switching from a competitive system. You might try that.

Edit: link was to Arris SB6190:

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

OK the Intel logo is on the box, that's a Puma6 chipset modem:

https://approvedmodemlist.com/intel-puma-6-modem-list-chipset-defects/

Puma6 will work, but is not recommended.

$750 is a nice budget.

OK, what about running some ethernet cables, or, are some already installed?

If you can't run cables: this is one mesh solution:

https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/RT2600ac

https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/MR2200ac

Note: I have not used that set up. Other people here can recommend mesh systems they've used and had success with.

Another recommendation: Ubiquiti router plus Access Points.

> Any satellites you wish to use on the exterior of the house, now would be a good time to run the cabling to the central point. Now you have ethernet and coaxial running from each room to the central point, from there you have the ability to choose what room has the ISP signal by just swapping the coaxial cable with the corresponding room.

Satellites? Would that be other rooms with a coaxial termination point? How does one hot swap the coaxial the ISP has data going to?

>Purchase a wall mount rack and run all the cabling in there instead of a wall enclosure that most contractors use. For the ethernet cables, you would punch them down on a patch panel. Though I recommended terminating them with RJ45 jacks and getting a keystone patch panel so it gives you the flexibility to move things around and troubleshoot.

Is a whole wall mount rack necessary I won't have more than 12 termination points I think. Would this patch panel work? Don't they come with the jacks? What is the cleanest way to go from the patch panel into the wall? Will I have a big hole in the wall where the cables go through regardless?

I really appreciate all the insight you're giving me on this. Should I just have the electrician place the cables where I want them and do the rest myself? I might get a friend more familiar with this to help me.

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.


Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.

Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:


TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6


ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT

Then convert the mini to USB C:


ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/

Ok.

That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.

———

Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

• Switch wise, any gigabit port is fine - try this, or this which is what i have. They're unmanaged so no config is needed, just plug and play. Try to ensure your PC is using a gigabit port if possible. a card is only a tenner or so if not, and its worth the upgrade from 100meg.
  
• For the storage system, a good bet is a NAS (Network Attached Storage) device. You can make one from a spare PC and using software like FreeNAS (I do), or you can buy a dedicate one (something like this )
  
• Does your telly support upnp? if so, that might be all you need. If not you might want to buy a low power tiny PC like this, and install Kodi on it. Its a Linux OS thats based around an old Xbox media player, and its excellent. Failing that, you could buy a chromecast to stream from your PC to your telly.
  

I suggest option two. It might be a little more expensive, but you can find a newer WiFi router that likely has gigabit Ethernet ports. This will allow your WiFi and Ethernet clients to reach the WAN speeds you’re paying for. It’ll be simpler, cleaner, and more secure than option 1.

Something like this should take care of your needs nicely:

ASUS Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Super-Fast Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with MU-MIMO and USB 3.0 (RT-ACRH13) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xmppDb9C8BE2G

You want to get a processor that supports aes-ni. That will allow SSL acceleration (opnvpn) and is also being required as of pfSense 2.5 and up.

I would choose this machine and purchase an unmanaged switch for your devices.

Hope that helps!

2nd edit; I was am an idiot... OK, Here you go. Under budget and should do what you need....

You can use this Zotac Barebones PC w/ the Celeron N3150 processor that supports AES-NI. Add some RAM and a SSD. Finally a Managed 8 Port Switch.

1st edit; Did not realize that I linked a celeron ( thanks u/suziesamantha ) as I thought it was a j1900 processor and then realized that the bay trail's also don't have aes-ni support. Sorry for the wrong information. The router I built is based on the Atom Rangley chip. You can use this link to help find aes-ni support.

You can use one of these

RP-SMA Male to RP-SMA Female Wifi Antenna Extension Cable Cord 2m / 6' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9V8T62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HHtMzb5F3TAPV

To extend the routers antenna. After that you can build a focusing device. Pringles can and parabolic cookware antennas are popular. Google a bit and you'll find tonnes. Extend the routers antenna for one and put a USB adapter in the other. Bam, point to point WiFi.

Wires and plumbing is a good thing. Means the holes are pre drilled and you can just piggy back. 400 ft is a long way for wifi under the best circumstances. Are you sure that's the distance?

Ethernet bought in bulk would always be the best way to go, offering the best speed and reliability. Second to that is MOCA or power line adapters. Both will be faster and more reliable than wifi over that distance. I had better luck with MOCA personally, but power line adapters can be had pretty cheap.

Let me see if I can suss out your details:

1. You have a single onHub router, wired into your cable modem (or Fios or whatever)
   
   
2. You're unhappy with its wifi performance
   
   
3. You want to run an ethernet cable from your router to your TV but the Onhub doesn't have an extra port
   
   
   If everything I said is correct, you can solve #3 for $20 and keep your Onhub with a simple switch like this one.
   
   If you also want to "fix" #2, the Nighthawk is fine. My quick google's make me horrified to think that you can't even manually select Wifi channels on the Google Wifi products, so you might actually need a new router for this (even if the hardware on the Onhub is fine). You'll need to be clearer about what exactly is bothering you for your wifi performance to be sure what you would be best served with, it's possible even the ac2300 is more expensive than you want. You certainly don't need Ubiquiti (I say that as a person that jumped from a Nighthawk to UBNT last year and absolutely love UBNT, but my use cases are more complex than yours).

While I agree it's crap, I got it for free, so no bilkin lol. I have thought it might be case. Is there a router under 100 bucks that might be suggested? I have 3 pc's, two xbox's, a few phones/tablets and maybe 10 pieces of HA equipment running. We don't have them all running at the same time. I looked at TP-Link Gigabit VPN Router (TL-R600VPN) and Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router Will either one of these fit the bill and is there something with better performance with plex media server and my server?

Thanks again for any insight.

6120 is End of Life and is a bad choice for 200 Mbps. Get a SB6183 for sure. if you got budget get a CM600 or D3.1 modem but not really needed.

also, make sure Comcast has pushed correct BLAST PRO config file.

Always prefer separates. reasons below: http://pickmymodem.com/cable-modem-wi-fi-modem-router-combo-one-buy/

for modems, pretty much SB6183 or CM600 are fine. if you prefer Arris, go for 6183.
http://amzn.to/2q0wYG6 - 6183
http://amzn.to/2qtNyxZ - CM600

for Routers, few options:

AC1900 R7000. Netgear http://amzn.to/2q0ykk0

Archer C9 http://amzn.to/2pzu4q4

Have you thought about google or Orbi Mesh systems? it gives pretty good performance.
http://amzn.to/2q0NUMq - Orbi (this is from Netgear and this gives hell of WIFI performance)
http://amzn.to/2pzsyUW - google mesh
How about Modem + EdgeRouterLite + Ubiquiti APs. This is complex setup and bit expensive
http://amzn.to/2pzBgTe - Edgerouter lite http://amzn.to/2pJHsIG - ubiquiti AP
Let me know if you have other questions.

Actually swapped out a TP-Link Archer C8 for this....https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8 and so happy I did. Best router I've owned in long time. We cut the cord also and we do a lot of gaming and TV streaming (mutliple devices) at same time and it handles the bandwith brilliantly. Good luck in your search.

P.S. We are also in a large 2 story house and coverage is excellent throughout.

Are you going to terminate the drops at the switch end with RJ-45 plugs or onto a patch panel? A patch panel is the best way to do it. But then the question arises where to put the patch panel? You can put the patch panel and the switch in a structured media enclosure flush in the wall. Or you can put them in a rack mounted on the wall.
 
When you are having the drops installed it's a good idea to pull an extra Cat6 cable at each location for future use. It won't add much to the cost but it will save a great deal of time and money later.

Great advice: don't spend $400+ on a home router.

The range is limited by FCC regulation. A $30 router can go as far as a $5000 router. What you need is to get a good router and a few wireless access points. This way, each access point adds to your coverage. It also allows your client devices to reach the closest access point.

Wifi is like having a conversation. If I put you at the other end of a football field with a gigantic megaphone, I'll hear you just fine, but there's no way I will be able to reply to you.

Get a decent router, with or without wifi, and then a couple of APs. A good combo : Edgerouter-X ($50) + 3x Unifi AP AC Lite ($75). For $275, you will end up with enough coverage to cover about 12,000 square feet. Add a switch for additional ports (maybe $25) and for $100 less than these "super duper router" you'll get much better coverage. Upgrade the Edgerouter X for an Edgerouter Lite for $25 more and you'll get full gigabit capabilities.

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

If you're looking to get your hands dirty, here's what I'd recommend. Fair warning: this equipment is fairly setup-intensive, but would be able to handle basically anything you could throw at it. It also has the advantage of being able to place the access point wherever you'd like in order to optimize your wireless coverage, while leaving the other equipment out of the way:

Arris SB6141 $70

EdgeRouter Lite 3-port $90

Unifi AP AC Lite $80

TP-Link 5-port Gigabit Switch $18 ($8 with rebate)

Total: $258/$248 with rebate

Otherwise, I'd just get the Arris SB6141 and a good router/switch/AP combo, which there are plenty of recommendations for on this subreddit.

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lL4AbTZQGZ04

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qoL4AbWDKZV5D

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

For $30, the TPlink TL-SG108E is a pretty good value. It's built fairly well, and has a 5 year warranty.

For $15 more ($45) you can get the Netgear GS108 I've used this switch, and the smaller 5 port version in a ton of places, and have never had 1 fail on me. These things are tanks, and should be perfect. But if you're on a budget, go for the TP link.

> Are there any solutions to improve powerline until a better one is established?

Nope. Such is the life of powerline. Erratic behavior is expected.

> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> I read about MoCA, and it sounds like a good, but expensive option (though the coax wiring is even more of a mess the the regual wiring is).

Cable lines are at least designed to carry data while powerlines are not. All you need is a cable connection between two places. It can be split as long as the splitters are of good quality and don't interfere with the MoCA.

This set is an affordable option: https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorola+moca&qid=1562258609&s=gateway&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=8-3&x=0&y=0

Basically anything is going to be better than powerline.

I've had the Netgear switches and love them. You could just get the 5 port one that would give you a total of 8 free ports between it and your current router or spend a little bit more for the 8 port version giving you plenty of room for future expansion. I own both and my 5 port GS105 has been running pretty much non-stop for 10 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.

If you have an android phone I recommend this app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I mean, don't unmanaged ports literally run off like 12V DC? can you just find a different plug for it that'll convert 240VAC to 12VDC? Nothing with 8 ports is going to have a C13/14


https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A


Then get a different adapter for it? Eh?


https://www.sfcable.com/1ft-18-awg-nema-5-15r-to-c14-monitor-power-adapter-cord.html?gdffi=afde19f4670e4f608861514cfe93a30d&gdfms=3911580D2AF64F7E9F9D8DA1401FB3B3&gclid=CjwKCAiAt8TUBRAKEiwAOI9pAEwbffy65JZVipI6zhab6xB8xX33EeadnmLVKAB0_EDMEJzO87GgLRoCQ1IQAvD_BwE


(I guess this cord says 125VAC, but come on, it won't struggle with 6W being pulled through it)



https://www.amazon.com/Five-Star-Cable-100-240V-Switching/dp/B00PZ8OT9K


So you got yourself a C14 plug (that's what the PDU you link has) to a 5-15R plug (meh) and then an adapter that is good for 240V (hell, the one that comes with it might even say 240VAC on the side of it, I'll check mine when I get home later)


This was 5 minutes of Google, if you go this route do your own homework and buy only what you feel comfortable using

Your setup sounds exactly like what I'm about to move into. I can't afford to do this quite yet (because of just moving into a new house) but my plan is:

• ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 - this is compatible with Comcast's 200Mbps service. If you're getting slower service, check their compatibility list for a cheaper version
  
• Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite
  
• TP-Link 16-Port Switch - obviously if you're going to need more connections, get a bigger switch. I only need 16 for now
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite
  
• Leftover wifi router set to AP-only mode for the basement since I only care about wifi in one room there
  
  Run wires to every fixed location (TVs, desktop, server, all wifi access points, anywhere you think you might put a computer). Set up the APs on different channels but with the same SSID and security. That will allow devices to roam between them.

This is a very good router.

Edit: Asus make very good, very reliable routers. If you want a good router, spend more. If you try and save and get a cheaper one, you will be disappointed, and end up in the "Save now, pay later" scenario. The RT-N66U will last you a few years.

I cannot comment on the router you linked.

A lot of clients won't ever be able to do this. Any device that does this will either require you to have the only 2.4 Ghz WiFi signal within range and enough spatial streams and/or channel width to support that throughput or it will require 5 Ghz clients with 802.11ac, enough spatial streams, and/or channel width to support that throughput.

That said, a Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite combined with a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite will get you as close as your clients will support.

As for a modem, Comcast's own recommendations are the best bet.

Asus RT-N66U with Advanced Tomato firmware is pretty awesome. Everything just works. The coverage is mediocre tho, about 2 normal sized room coverage.

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY

Advanced Tomato: https://advancedtomato.com/

Do you use Comcast VOIP? If you do, I know that can be harder to switch. If you don't I'd look at getting one of the Arris Surboards. I've always been a fan of them and they've worked well for me. I'd probably recommend looking at the Arris 6190 You can usually find them through Amazon's Open Box Warehouse for slightly cheaper.

I'm a fan of it because it supports 32 downstream channels while I believe Comcast's Gateway only supports 8. Most Comcast locations around the country have access to between 16-24 channels which means that you have more pipes to get your Internet from compared to only having 4-8 channels.

If you can't run a line from the Ethernet cable in the basement to your game room, a separate router would be the best bet. Any dual band ac router will work. You can pick one up for about $60.

If you can, the best solution would be to use a mini switch to connect to the line in the basement and then run a line to the game room.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zTY6AbSQT52MW

Or

TP-Link 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Life Time Warranty| Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG105) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A128S24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JUY6AbFBF1RXR

Netgears do have good reputation, I have that same model I believe, that runs 24/7 and has been for the past couple of years, 3 maybe

Edit:
Sorry I didn’t see where you needed an 8 porter. But nonetheless, these are great switches that I’m sure you can find in 5,8,10,24 ports

If you're on a budget, these work really well for MoCA. They're a bit older and slower, but at $10, it's hard to beat price wise. They max out around 175 Mbps, but it's enough for 50/10. I have four in my house and they work wonderfully.

Here is a post I found about what you're trying to do. Apparently it shouldn't ruin anything, but it may or may not work.

I'd say your best option would be to pick up something like this. As long as it's 802.3af or 802.3at compliant it will work with the AP.

If the patch panel you have says anything about 802.3af/at then it should be able to be used.

For comcast gigabit you'll be needing a DOCSIS 3.1 capable modem such as the Arris SB8200.

For a router, for all in ones you can look at the typical Netgear R7000 or the Asus AC1900 if you want to keep it simple.

If you want something super reliable then...

Edgerouter X

or

Edgerouter Lite

or

Unifi Security Gateway

• 
  
  Ubiquiti AC Lite
  
  or
  
  Ubiquiti AC Pro
  
  (also wire in as many things as possible with quality Cat5e/6/6a cables)

Note that the MI424-WR, at best, is MoCA 1.1, so the bonded MoCA 2.0 MM1000 is overkill. (More: Any two MoCA nodes will attempt to communicate with each other only at the highest MoCA spec supported by both nodes, so the bonded adapter will be operating only at MoCA 1.1.)

You’ll save some money and give yourself a personal wireless access point by grabbing a pre-owned MoCA 1.1 WCB3000N off Amazon for ~$17. (here) The WCB3000N should offer up to 150 Mbps throughput over the MoCA link.

If the landlords upgrade from the MI424-WR, then you can look at a faster MoCA adapter for your room. Otherwise, if you needed more speed now, you’d need to replace or supplement the MI424-WR MoCA bridge with a standalone adapter matching the spec of the MoCA adapter in your room.

I assume that you have a coax splitter wherever the cable reaches your house. That might be in a box outside or somewhere inside the house. From this splitter, coax cables run to the various outlets in your house.

It looks like there is only one coax port on the TG1682G: https://fccid.io/UIDTG1682-3/External-Photos/External-Photos-2853842

This means that the MoCA communication signal is sent back out through the same coax wire that the DOCSIS signal providing your internet access comes in. MoCA would then travel back to the splitter and out to all coax outlets attached to that splitter. Hopefully the splitter doesn't block MoCA signals. If so, you'd need to replace it with one that allows them through. Ideally you'd add a MoCA filter to the coax coming into the house before it gets to the first splitter in order to prevent your internal MoCA data from leaving your home.

You would then use a single MoCA 2.0 adapter like the Motorola MM1000 in your home-office with the incoming coax connected to its Network coax plug and your ethernet devices (via a switch or wireless access point) connected to its ethernet plug.

Oh that's cool I wasn't completely sure if you had to keep the controller running.

I have been looking at these two routers.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449531583&sr=1-4&keywords=ubiquiti

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449549072&sr=1-7&keywords=ubiquiti+router

I do some large file transfers over the wired side of the network so I thought it may be worth it to get the second one listed. Also we have between 15-30+ devices connected at any time but probably most of them are idle.

These were the AP's that I was looking at

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31DJWuaQDOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=13TM14RQA56J7T55G2B1

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449550183&sr=1-10&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+dual+band

I would probably just do the Wireless N one but idk. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations on these?

Thanks really appreciate it!

neither option is optimal. go with a good router straight off the modem with a 8 port SWITCH right next to it. then either use a couple waps or routers configured in wap mode to fulfill your wireless needs. most applications only call for one router in the network and unless configured correctly you can get some pretty big headaches from having more than one device issuing dhcp on the same network (not good) do you already have the components and if so what are they? if not we can definitely give you parts recommendations to really streamline things!

edit: if your in a position to start from scratch:
Ubiquiti Edgerouter and
Netgear switch and
Unify AP's

Sounds good!

I believe you're talking about this Motorola MoCA adapter?

One review suggested the Actiontek brand instead, due to some issues with the Motorola. There's about a $32 difference, so I'll have to see if that's justified.

Funny that Moto just went up in price by about $20 just a couple months ago after being at the $118 price point for almost a year!

Now I just need to figure out how and when to use the MoCA filters. If it's required that I plug one on the outside of the house (where the cable box is), that's not something I can do. If it's inside the home, I can do that.

Oops, there were seven runs before, forgot to change that. Why does everyone think I have 2 switches? There's a 3 port edgerouter x and an 8 port switch. Your right, the TL-SG108E [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4DS5KU] looks pretty good, although I did find what I mentioned above, the er-x switches at line speed so switching performance isn't as big a concern as with the er lite or something [https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/ER-X-switching-performance/td-p/1422549]. I guess having a smart switch is still worth it in case I want to do something else with vlans later.

It costs a little more than some of the other options listed but I'm a fan of the GS108 from Netgear. It's a really great little switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QhlZCbSCQ77MB

Also wanna add about the steam link, the ubiquiti has 3 different wireless networks per say, so you can isolate the steam to its own to keep the traffic down and keep the connection steady. But I don’t think you need to do that, but you can get TP-Link network switches to handle the wired connections link to ones I use

Also if you want you can always add a MoCA adapter, that’s assuming you already have coaxial cable ran threw the house. You would only need once since FiOS modem/router supports them, I’m in the process of getting one myself to hardwire my TV/fire stick since I will be cutting the cord completely as well :)

These bonded 2.0 adapters give close to gigabit. Ethernet is still better since it is true full duplex VS TDD(Time Division Duplex). As long as you do not mind the 3.5 ms latency introduced by Moca 2, best option after Ethernet.

With Uverse I have to use their router/modem. And in my experience, they're trash and I can't ever figure out how to do what I want. I guess I could always get a router and wire their modem into it, and have the router connected to the access points. I don't know how that works, would each access point give it's own signal that's not controlled?

Also, 5 port switch like this? https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524744877&sr=8-3&keywords=5+port+switch

And are there any good ones that receive a wireless signal and have data output connections?

Thanks!

Ooh boy

As a jr network engineer I got a slight chub reading this.

You need, like you said, an ethernet hub.

But now they aren't called hubs, they're called switches. And technically they serve the same function as a hub, but in a complete different and more efficient way.

Long story short, buy something like this.

You may want to buy the "gigabit" version if you are paying for faster speeds.

What's your internet speeds? 800sq ft isn't much and the AC Lite should be able to cover it.

If it were me though and I had an open budget I'd go with an EdgeRouter Lite and a UniFi AP AC Pro. That going to give you the best performance for your money. And the best range.

[Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite ERLITE-3 Desktop Router (Black)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_052iybDFTHP07)
[Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q92iyb43WMX90)

Something like this:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dlEpDbDJ70CRA

And something like this:
TP-Link EAP245 V3 Wireless AC1750 MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, seamless roaming, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMZR3F1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dmEpDbWSY0PHE

You can go cheaper on this for sure but that would let devices take most advantage of the speed if you have new devices and fast wifi


But yeah, just a router in AP mode would work too.

Thanks! I will switch to a switch. Anything particular to look for? Something simple like this: switch
Anything I need to do to set things up? Thanks again!

Depending on the size of the house, I'd suggest a couple Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lites or PRO's (depending on if any 3x3 devices will be in use), and depending on your level of network experience, I'd back those up with either an Edgerouter Lite or USG. The USG and the UAP-AC-*'s are both configured through the UniFi Controller software, where the Edgerouter Lite has its own web interface. The have the same hardware 'under the hood', but the USG is easier to manage for more novice folks. I have a USG + UAP-AC-Lite in my house. If you were to go this route, you'll need to include a network switch (if you don't already have one) so you'll have enough ports for any devices that are wired plus any WAPs you install. I wouldn't use routers as WAPs, as many of them (especially older routers) just aren't as good as dedicated WAPs. ;)

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

Great, thanks!

What is the point of the 5 dangling coax cables in the panel?

​

So, I'm thinking of.. having one of the coax cables run into a modem.

And the ethernet from the modem goes to this router:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0144R449W/

And from that router, I have wires that connect to each of those black ethernet plugs (refer to panel in original post) corresponding to the outlets in each of the different rooms I have.

Then, from the living room media center room, I can have a switch from that port:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6

Which will then connect to all my devices and a wireless access point.

​

Would that work? The router and switch part is a bit confusing to me, so I might be thinking of this totally wrong.

You should be perfectly good with that antenna. Your ping is pretty damn good already, don't know if it can go down much further. I've tested lag to a nearby game server about 22 miles away, and I get over 36ms ping regularly using cable.

For your router, unless it keeps dropping packets or is going bad, you can keep the modem/router combo. Some features are unavailable in a modem/router combo that you may like, but I don't know of any reason for you to change yours.

Nighthawk isn't a switch, it's a router. You can use a cheapo gigabit switch like this one and it'll be fine.

Well, toss-out the Asus RT-N12; as it's only a single band router.

​

I have not really researched these, but they will be better than the RT-N12



ASUS (RT-ACRH13) Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Super-Fast Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with MU-MIMO and USB 3.0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=psdc_300189_t2_B00DWFPDNO

or



TP-Link (Archer A7) AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B00DWFPDNO

​

I don't have Fios, but I'm fairly confident my cable company is using MoCA. So I have this network bridge:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F821KRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would need to get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-MoCA-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6000K02/dp/B013J7L6BW

AND the hookup would be: Coax > MoCA adapter > POE > Bridge 1 > Bridge 2 > POE > Router (as access point)?

thanks, guess I'm ordering more cable (used it to run the first line) and a switch. thanks for the help

It goes a little above budget, but, they are both very solid devices, and recommended like crazy here.

Go with a separate router and AP. You get better placement for the access point and a router that can handle a lot more than 150MBps.

Ubiquiti AP-AC-Lite

Edgerouter Lite

If you want a not as capable, but still fast and cheaper router, Edgerouter-X

Thanks a lot for your help so far.
My cable modem/wireless router is Netgear C6220.
I am planning on buying a NETGEAR Wi-Fi Range Extender EX3700.
Also, a NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305)
Would you call that the right gear.
It'd be amazing if I could figure out the way to have a single SSID and password across the house.

E: I already saw on Amazon comments that EX3700 isn't a mesh mode AP and thus can't be used with the same SSID. Will continue searching for a better alternative and appreciate recommendations (I know about Google WiFi but I'll rather something from Netgear , Linksys, etc.)

Honestly even though overkill, purchasing a higher end router (example: https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3SGBNKCHM67GC19P7ZR) is normally a good idea just for more features. Like MU-MIMO or Beam-forming tech. I personally use a AC1900 rated router for 75 10 internet.

get a Ubiquiti edge max lite router .it has the best management interface you could ever want if you donot want to start installing ddwrt and the likes of pfsense

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K

You don't need anything particularly fancy. I'd suggest getting a router with a 5GHz band (most of them are dual band these days), and use that over the 2.4GHz band (shorter range, but they're faster and the 5GHz spectrum tends to be less polluted since a ton of devices use the 2.4GHz band).

Not sure how fast your internet will be, but I'd suggest getting a router that supports gigabit on the ethernet ports (many cheaper routers will use "fast" which only goes up to 100Mbps instead of 1000Mbps).

​

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=router&qid=1571250641&sr=8-10

This one in the link seems pretty good for the price. A bit overkill, but it'll be plenty fast for your wireless devices.

Thanks for the super direct input here. A couple questions:

1. Would you recommend the following for a wireless access point and MoCA adapters? https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=moca+wireless+access+point&qid=1564767061&s=electronics&sr=1-3 ; https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=moca+adapter&qid=1564767196&s=electronics&sr=1-3
   
   
2. If I wanted to install the splitters would that just be at the point of the coax cable entering the wall? Or is there a separate central location to install them? I would be hesitant to take this step just because I'm in an apartment so I doubt I'd be able to fiddle around with a central coax area.
   
   
3. Would there be any issues with having the WAP in the basement (i.e., would the wifi not be as effective down there)? Or since the WAP is connected to the router through the coax system, the location doesn't really matter?

If your internet speeds are under 1Gbps, that is not a reason to ignore having a 1Gbps switch + cable runs within your network. The main reason you'd want a gigabit switch is for good speed between your modem/router and all your devices. This has nothing to do with internet speeds.

But yes, another reason is if you have fast internet. Which you do.

In any case, you'd want a gigabit switch. They pretty much only make switches with 1Gbps ports now. What that means is every port can support speeds up to 1Gbps depending on your cable and equipment along the way. Switches that only support up 100Mbps per port are basically discontinued.

That switch is fine, but if you can spare the extra $9, get this TP-Link instead. It is semi-managed and has a lifetime warranty: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG105E-5-Port-Gigabit-Version/dp/B00K4DS5KU

thanks that's cool but i guess the more i think about it the less i want to drop so much on a wifi router. it's really not going to have heavy use, just web browsing, streaming and such.

would either of these work well (i.e. good reliable connections)?

This TP

Or perhaps this ASUS

I agree, you may be better off with Powerline, or even better, Moca if you have a coax port in that basement. See links below:

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/

https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/

>I would need to get something like this:

> https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-MoCA-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6000K02/dp/B013J7L6BW

The ECB6000K02 is an older MoCA 2.0 adapter. There is a newer, Bonded MoCA 2.0 adapter, the ECB6200, which is up to 2x faster. The ECB6000K02 should still be capable of several hundred Mbps, which may be good enough. Besides, it's possible your cable company's equipment doesn't support Bonded MoCA 2.0.

Keep in mind that the Amazon link is for 2 adapters. The per-unit cost for 2 adapters is usually cheaper.

> AND the hookup would be: Coax > MoCA adapter > POE > Bridge 1 > Bridge 2 > POE > Router (as access point)?

I assuming that POE here means Power over Ethernet for powering the Bridges. If so, yes, that looks correct.

I guess you did your research, which is good. Any patch panel will do, just make sure it’s Cat6 rated. Depending on where you want to mount it, get the right type. There’s a rack mountable version and a wall mount version.

A punchdown tool will be needed and an Ethernet tester would help. I usually punch down cables corresponding or the B standard.

Check the specs on your router. If it has only 100 Mbps ethernet ports it'll probably help to upgrade, even if your internet service is 100 Mbps down. You could get something inexpensive like a Ubiquiti ER-X that will be good for up to 500 Mbps.

Alright, that was quicker than I thought. Here is the build I'm thinking about. You could add a second access point if you need additional coverage (now or later). Keep in mind the controller for them needs to be running pretty much all the time. If this is a problem let me know and I can suggest something else. Hope this all makes sense, let me know if you have questions/thoughts/concerns.

Build:

Router ($100): http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/

Router info: http://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-lite/

Wireless ($200): http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-PRO-Enterprise-System/dp/B0089QB1SC/

AP info: http://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/

Switch ($150): http://www.amazon.com/Fanless-Managed-Rackmountable-Switch-GS1900-16/dp/B00H1OM0BA/

Switch info: http://www.zyxel.com/us/en/products_services/gs1900_series.shtml?t=p

Total: $550

If you're looking for an all in one, router, wireless, and firewall (most common in consumer products), I'd highly recommend the ASUS AC-RHC13. It's $70 on Amazon and performs very well.

If you're looking for a more advanced setup, separate router, separate firewall, and separate APs... Ubiquity edge router, pfsense FW, and ubiquity APs.

Edit: link to router

ASUS RT-ACRH13 Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DzTkzbZHWCBA3

I recommend considering TP-Link switches. This 5 port gigabit switch by TP-Link https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465861792&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+switch may suit your home network if you have fast internet and or send large files between boxes, even if you don't this may be the best.

I picked up my first switch from TP-Link which was a 5 port 10/100 switch until I upgraded to an 8 port gigabit switch(same design as the one I mentioned). Alternatively, you can consider https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-5-Port-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SF1005D/dp/B000FNFSPY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465861946&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+switchthis for a more housey kind of look with different features - just choose between Fast Ethernet or Gigabit to suit your needs.

Thanks for the help. The switch I went with was http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_su_dp from some others that I talked to they said it would would very well for what I need it for.

MoCA works absolutely fantastic in my experience. I use these boxes from Motorola. Gigabit speeds no issue. Just be sure any coax splitters are bi-directional.

Mesh Wi-Fi, where an AP gets an uplink from another AP, is bery questionable at best. If you are going to have multiple APs (reasonable), they should all have their own wire. Which can be MoCA.

Okay, that makes more sense lol. Thank you.

I think I've got all the info I need. At this point I'm just comparing three similar routers:

The one you recommended

This Asus one that's a dollar less

And this Asus one that looks to be the same as the other Asus but is $ cheaper and has 300 less max speed

All three are dual-band so it's just a matter of picking one. The TP-Link one says it has a 2 year warranty and 24/7 customer service so that might be worthwhile. It also has the highest max speed but that doesn't really make a huge difference to me since my internet is capped at 25 anyway. The TP-Link is the most expensive, $17 more than the cheapest Asus one. Hmmm.

For starters I would get a basic tester just to test the cable drops and make sure all is well, if it's really been about 15 years there is a decent chance of some breaks / cabling issues. Sounds like a simple Unmanaged 8-port Gigabit Switch can be installed in the attic with all of the Ethernet cables plugged into it.

If you could solve this mystery, it could worth MILLIONS of $$$. :) Seems to happen to many people, works for years, then won't work at all. New powerline adapters don't fix problem. Most give up and look for other solutions.

If you have coax cable from your TV/Cable provider , consider using Coax to deliver your ethernet via MoCA.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Hardwire to an access point will always be better than a mesh system.

I was in a similar predicatment to you...3,500 sqft house on one florr.

Do you have cable TV jacks throughout the house? If you do, check out MoCA devices (I Use These). They have Ethernet on one side, and RF jack on the other side. You may have to change out splitters (I Use These) with ones for increased bandwidth. When you connect MoCA devices, you connect them on the output ports (not the input)...also, you have to make sure that you don't have any RF amplifiers in the data as they will not pass data in both directions.

>Budget

Price isn’t really an issue, I’d say $750 would be the absolute cutoff for the whole setup

>Pretty big in Japan? Or pretty big in Texas

7000 sqr ft

>That modem is 1G capable?

It’s this one

>What is “pretty big” house made of?

Walls are mostly plaster with some drywall

That switch doesn't appear to support VLANs.

This one does, and it's cheaper -> http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108E-8-Port-Gigabit-Tag-Based/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453166594&sr=8-1&keywords=tp-link+sg108e

It has an easy to use config tool that should make your life easier. http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-788.html

If you're using the FIOS router as a Wifi router, then you may need another wifi router. Depends on how you set it up. I'd suggest getting a switch that supports VLANs, and then experimenting with setting it up. You may find that you don't need another wifi router.

Those are great options, thank you. If i keep the injectors and get two non-PoE switches, can I choose any cheapo switch [such as this one by TP-link] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC)?

How would you find what? Ethernet cable? Amazon, Monoprice, etc. Even your local Home Depot and Lowe's would have them; they'll also have bulk cable (for making your own Ethernet cables). They also have jacks for your wall so you could go through walls cleanly. As this is an apartment, you probably don't want to make anything so permanent, but if your landlord is cool he could allow it, or he could even set it up for you.

Anyways, all that's really necessary is to get a long cable, plug one end of the cable into your router/modem combo, and then other end in your computer. That's it. You can run it along the wall, using raceway that just stick to the wall, or duct tape, or a staple gun (be sure not to pierce the cable), or however you like. Don't make the bends around corners too sharp.

If your modem/router combo only has one Ethernet port and it's in use, spend $10 on a switch and get another short Ethernet cable to connect it to your router/modem combo. If $10 is a lot of money, you could probably use your unused router as a switch by going into its settings and changing the IP so it doesn't interfere with the modem/router combo, then turning off DHCP on the unused router. Leave the "WAN" port alone and use the "LAN" ports as a switch.

Don't strip the individual wires, but do remove the outer blue sheath. There's more room in the jack before it's crimped, and you can fit the wires all the way in with their individual coating still on.

Patch panels are not necessary. All you need is something along these lines: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

Make sure you get one with enough ports for all the plugs!

Thanks for the response. Are you referring to this for the standalone? http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K

and these? http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y

Looks like I can wire a single Unifi AP to the router and extend range with a second. Wiring two at a distance from a router on a cable modem wouldn't be an option.

The Edgerouter Lite is quite a popular choice capable of handling Gigabit speeds.

If you don't have wireless APs, also grab one or two of the AP-AC Lites.

It doesn't have to be the ISP doing it, it could be the building owner. Maybe they think things like a chromecast will congest the network because the data has to go from the AP to the pc back to the AP then to the chromecast? Idk.

Regardless, /u/aonysllo is right, a travel router should do the job. I found this one after a brief google. I'm sure you could find a better one with some more research.

Only if you buy one of the handful of modems that support bonding enough channels. To get 300 mbps you need to bond 32 channels, which limits you to the SB6190 and a few other modems. I strongly recommend buying the future-proof SB6190.

So could I buy something like the TP-Link TL-SG105 plug both my desktop and the 20€ router I already bought into it, and have my gigabit over lan straight to my desktop and WLAN over the router/AP?

(Or maybe get something like this as my AP?)

Fantastic. That makes sense.

Would something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Extender-Adapter/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q6WZEB70J28H4ANE4QGM

And a router do the trick?

Okay so heres my new plans for the design:

250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45

Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11

12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20

8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29

10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10

10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14

Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?

Edgerouter X: $54.95

Unifi AP AC Lite: $86.24

Total = $141.19

D-Link Dir-880L: $137.99

It's 4 bucks more for a better router that is easily expandable with another AP if needed.

Make sure you at least get the 2.0 adapters, the 1.0 adapters are hard limted to 100 Mbps.

These are the current best ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7L6BW/

interesting product, i have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y3SQXR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and has helped me with getting 1GB (actual about 850-950mb/s which is fine). I have fios gigabit and the router they supply was moca 1.0 and i was getting 480 mb/s as you know is max through coax.

what do you mean by your devices aren't communicating?

Not sure why you need a splitter at all. the moca 2.0/2.5 devices are attached after the router at the "main end" in order to double the max coax internet speed which is 400-500 mb/s.

Think of your internet via ethernet giving you max gigabit speed, and the moment you connect it to your coax wall, it immediately goes half speed. So even though I have fios gigabit, its the same thing.

so in my basement my internet comes into the house via ethernet and I connect it to my fios modem/router (which stupidly is moca 1.0, i.e. where my issues begin with the half speeds!)

• you then connect the moca 2.0/2.5 adapter from one of your router lan ports
  
• other end of moca adapter is coax which then goes into your wall
  
• in every other room, you will need another moca adapter which will change the coax connection into an ethernet port for your 2nd router like you have in your diagram
  
  Summed up:
  
  MODEM > ROUTER > LAN CABLE > MOCA 2.0/2.5 adapter > coax cable > Coax wall = internet now running through your house via coax behind your walls
  
  THEN in your other rooms
  
  WALL > coax cable > moca adapter > lan cable > switch > devices (i am unsure if you need another router before your switch)
  
  Only difference between cox and fios is how the internet comes into your house so this diagram should work, no need for splitters unless you need TV which in your adapter manual, will tell you how to do.
  
  TIP THAT I USE:
  
  For every room that gets spotty WIFI, instead of using a moca adapter, just buy a moca 2.0 range extender! It's the same thing except it also gives you wifi!
  
  WALL > coax cable > range extender (moca 2.0) > LAN line > my office PC. Since my office is on the 2nd floor and the bedrooms get spotty internet the extender gives strong wifi signals to the upper floor since my internet comes into my house in the basement.
  
  some resources:
  
  https://forums.verizon.com/t5/Fios-Internet/Why-does-the-Fios-extender-half-gig-speeds-and-is-there-a-way-I/td-p/865802
  
  This diagram from your Goax product website made me think you don't need another router before your switch
  
  https://www.howtogeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/x2011-11-29_132204.jpg.pagespeed.gp+jp+jw+pj+ws+js+rj+rp+rw+ri+cp+md.ic.YkB_VGVq0I.jpg

I'm going to confirm my understanding -
Your set up is:
Modem+wireless router at one end of the house

wireless extender set up at another end of the house to receive a signal

powerline adapter at the other end, connected to the wireless extender


netgear powerline kit with wifi in your detached house


---------


I'm going to assume you're open to spending a little cash, have some time and are willing to get dirty. This should be MUCH higher performance/reliability but it's not as beginner friendly. The general idea is to wire as much as possible and to use point to point antennas instead of powerline (powerline is basically a big antenna that picks out interference from things like TV channels, people turning on vacuums, etc.)



---------


point to point wireless bridge:

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-Wireless-RBwAPG-60ad-wireless-duplex/dp/B077992GG3


OR two MoCA adapters (works if you have coaxial cables run to the other house) https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/


A few ethernet cables (cat6 - if you have anything that's going outdoors, get outdoor rated). I'd probably buy preterminated and go longer than you need.


a wireless access point - Ubquiti AC lite works


----


general idea - set up two units, while connected with wires to the main network, get an ethernet cable to an edge of your house (might require running in an attic or under the house, drilling a hole in the roof of a closet and then down from a soffit in usually works well); set up an AC lite while in the house; get one bridge unit and the AC lite mounted at the guest house. If you have coaxial cables already run, use MoCA units instead of a wireless bridge.


Net result should be GOOD wifi to the guest house.

If you want a solution that will work with any router, you can read through this thread over at DSL reports.

The summary is to put a smart switch that allows vlan tagging between your ONT and router with the proper tagging.

Here's a switch for $29.99 that someone in that thread mentions they got it to work. The switch the OP mentions is now $54.99 on amazon. You might be able to find one cheaper - especially try to get a smaller one since you really only will be using 2 ports on it.

You have a few options here.

1. Put the Google Wifi system into bridge mode and let the Verizon gateway be the router. That would resolve the double NAT issue and put your wired and wireless devices on the same network. Your Verizon Gateway will still be your router/firewall, but your Google Wifi/Router will be used for WiFi. Also turn off WiFi radios on the Verizon Gateway so they don't interfere with each other. Note putting Google WiFi in bridge mode disables the Mesh features and turns the wireless APs into old school relays (which sucks), so if you are using multiple mesh APs you'll want to go with the next option. If you are just using a single unit, NBD.
   
   
2. Use the Google Wifi as the primary router, directly connected from the ONT. Google Mesh Wifi APs have one switch port, but you can just plug in a cheap switch to expand it with this Simple & well-built Netgear Switch and plug in all your wired devices. However, the Verizon router is needed for Fios TV channel info and on-demand services, but it doesn't need to be your primary router, it just needs internet to feed info to the settop boxes over coax. Just plug the WAN port from the Verizon gateway into the switch, and just make sure that the Verizon gateway and the google WiFi system aren't using the same IP range (i.e both using 192.168.x.x) either change the IP range in Google Wifi or change it on the Verizon router, make one of them 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x, and there will be no conflicts with double NAT and your Fios settop boxes will work normally. Also disable the WiFi radios on the Verizon gateway. (Note if you use the Fios app for live TV and remote DVR, you can't do this with Google Wifi, you'll need to use Verizons gateway as your primary router unless you buy different hardware)

That's so weird, I was editing my post about switches as you left your comment.

I will need about 5 ports on a switch, for a PC and other bits and bobs, even games consoles possibly for downtime gaming.

So these are the ones I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000FNFSPY and http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000E5SES

Could you rundown the step by step process to set this up? Also, what's your solution when it comes to the possibility of a power surge in bad weather etc...

Are there special surge protectors for that sort of thing, since a cable will be trailed outdoors.

Thank you for replying! I appreciate it.

> WISP

Thank you! That is what I was looking for. Apparently very popular with travel routers. Thinking of starting with this TP-LINK one and working up from there.

Thanks for the response!

Would this work? And it says it can connect directly via coax, would I still need one by the original modem in addition to the two I would get for the rooms?

Actiontec Single Dual-Band Wireless Network Extender and Ethernet Over Coax Adapter (WCB3000N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CysXCbGZSCJGA

Wow! People on here are suggesting wild solutions. You don't need a tech or electrician. Get a set of these and call it a day. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008EQ4BQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505877844&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=moca+adapters&dpPl=1&dpID=41NDPQ6dkIL&ref=plSrch

/u/Qui_Gon_Gin listen to this guy. I have my network setup exactly like this. You'll have to learn about VLANS to do it, but you can get a managed switch like this, or you could get a more robust one like this or like this.

Pick up something like this. Here's a good tutorial on how to get it working.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/

Can't go wrong for $18. I have one of these downstairs, and one of the Netgear Prosafe GS108 upstairs. Both work great.

Yes and yes.

There are various MoCA adapters out there pending on how you want to terminate your connections. Adapters that carry both cable tv and Ethernet are going to be more expensive than just an Ethernet adapter.

Some general information on how MoCA works can be found here:

• http://www.mocalliance.org
  
• http://www.actiontec.com/products/14.php
  
• http://www.netgear.com/service-providers/products/in-home-connectivity/moca-bridges/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG
  

That should work. This is cheaper and supports Client mode which is pretty much what you would need. Connect it to your apartments WiFi in client mode, and plug the ethernet cable from it into your routers WAN interface.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO

These are much better. Yes, one will need to be hooked to your modem/router to feed internet over coax to the other adapters.

Specifically for your application, you may or may not see any difference. You will however see a huge difference in scenarios when you are moving large chunks of data, such as: backup library over network. 10/100 is very, very, annoyingly slow. It does make sense to invest in gigabit switch. You can get these for pretty cheap these days:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+switch
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105NA-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+switch

imho, gigabit is not only worth it, it's minimum level

i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.