(Part 2) Top products from r/Hunting

I'm adding to what Pedro said above, because it's spot on.

For a beginner, definitely start with a curved tip knife. You don't want to go overboard while skinning and drop or puncture the guts at the wrong time, and you definitely don't want to accidentally cut a tendon in the legs that the deer is hanging on. You can get a nice "deer kick" in the face, due to the laws of gravity.

I've cleaned hundreds of whitetail in my life, and taught dozens of new hunters. My father taught many times more than me. Accidentally cutting the tendon when skinning around the legs is the biggest rookie mistake I see. The last guy that I taught (this last season) did exactly that, even after I told him not to no less than 3 times beforehand.

I'd recommend a knife something like this one for a cheap start. They probably have one similar, if not identical in every Walmart in your area

As for cutting the feet off just before separating the shoulders, I have a few tricks. One is to use a cordless reciprocating saw. You can cut the feet off in a couple of seconds, and you can also split the pelvis slightly quicker than you can sometimes do it with the knife. Use a wood blade with large teeth, rather than a metal blade with small teeth. It always seemed backwards to me, due to the hardness of bone, but I promise you it will work better. The saw is also invaluable for cutting skull or spine depending on how you want to harvest antlers.

Another way to cut off the feet is to use a large pair of bolt cutters, or a large pair of landscape "lopping" shears. They will both cut right on through the bone.

I have also had success with these. Once people get over the drama or hilarity, they generally see that it works well. This allows you to pull the last bit colon\rectum out of the deer before you start cleaning, allowing you to keep your meat clean. If you wait until you are "into" the animal, everything is so slick that it's hard to pull out cleanly by hand sometimes. This keeps the turds off your meat.

A good gut bucket is a must. As you figure things out, you will learn to take the animal apart in a way that allows you to drop everything in the bucket as you go. I have used everything from large storage totes, to galvanized trash cans. I think I like the galvanized steel trash cans the best, because they are taller, but they do tip over easier if you haul off the guts in the back of a truck. I use the firm edge of the trashcan like a saw horse when I am cutting the front feet off.

Obviously, your work area also makes a big difference. We run a small family hunting operation where we might clean 8 or 10 deer in a row on a decent day. We have a purpose built shed for cleaning. You don't have to have a dedicated building, but there's a few key things that help. These are a cheap hand-cranked boat winch for raising the gambrel. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the gambrel to fit the deer and your comfort zone. Also, it seems obvious, but one of the worst things is trying to skin one in shitty light. Most of the time it doesn't matter, but if you are skinning for a mount, you'd better be able to see. Running water is definitely a key element. Nothing sucks worse than getting a fatty deer that fouls all of your knives before you are done skinning. Being able to wash right there is a major luxury.

Otherwise, there are several videos on youtube that I have been pointing people to, to give them a refresher when I am not around to help. Just search a bit. They are not hard to find.

When you get good, you can clean one casually in about 10 minutes. This doesn't include boning out the quarters.

Sorry for the wall of text, but this is something that I am passionate about, having spent so much of my life doing it.

ill weigh in here too. i strongly recommend doing it yourself, if for no other reason, the sense of accomplishment. it got me into hunting even more when i was able to see the meat from field to plate, the whole way.

there are many levels you can butcher on... you can sub out as much as you want. you can get a grinder, or you can send it out to someone to do the burger. you can do your own sausage too if you have a grinder...

for me, if it is warm, ill do it that same day. if it isnt, i do it when convenient. honestly, ive tried aging it, and i cant taste one iota of difference... so i do it the easiest way i can. if i let it hang for more than a day, i make sure i pull out the tenderloins immediately.

tools you will need....
a good knife... preferably 2 so you can have someone help you. i like one with a gut hook, but its not the end of the world if you dont have one. youll want a small pocket sharpener, which you should probably have anyways... if you use a gut hook get one that can sharpen a gut hook. im a fan of this one

a gambrel. you can get by with ratchet straps, but a gambrel is way easier. i like one with a 4:1 lift ratio, but 2:1 is fine too. this is the one i have


a sawzall to cut off the head and legs are nice, but at our cabin we regularly forget to bring ours, and a regular hand saw actually works better in a lot of ways.

trash bags to store your meat in... at least 4. one for backstraps, one for front quarters, one for burger meat, one(or 2) for rear quarters.

so that will get you quartered. deer skinned, backstraps out, 4 legs(quarters) removed, and burger meat cleaned off of the rest of it.

at that point i generally get the meat into a cooler and get some ice onto it so i can quit for the day... in a day or 2 ill bring it all inside and debone it. for that, youll need a good fillet knife(i actually use a fishing fillet knife), and a big cutting board. again, i prefer 2 of both so i can have help. id rather do 2 deer with someone else, than 1 deer by myself. then all youll need is a vacuum sealer and bags.

there are a ton of different techniques out there. there is a learning curve. if you can have someone teach you that would help massively. but even if you do, watch tons of videos. especially for deboning. youll find your own technique that you like best.

youll also realize how much of the deer goes to waste. in the beginning you are going to want to try to save every tiny morsel of meat... after a couple deer youll realize what you have to let go. and that is different for everyone. some people cut the meat/fat from between the ribs... some people let that go... some people cut off the ribs and make them like beef ribs. some people turn the neck into a roast... some people cut what meat they can off of it, and put it in a roast.

some people are ok with tons of deer fat and connective tissue in their burger... some people want clean meat in it. some people cut all their hind quarter meat into steaks, some people keep everything as roasts.


edit:
this video shows the way i quarter the deer. except it takes me 10x as long, haha. follow up to the 10 minute mark. im not a fan of his deboning technique. i am, but i prefer to do it on the table, not hanging, and i prefer to clean all the outer silver skin off of it before i separate the muscle groups. and he also leaves a biiig chunk of burger meat on the lower leg bone.

Please don't.

Most likely those were water snakes. They can be aggressive if confronted and mimic the colors of moccasins. However they're essentially harmless, except they will bite you and poop on you if caught.

Snakes are not bad guys, and help keep small rodent populations down. (much better than cats, feral cat populations do a lot of harm) You want to encourage proper native species to flourish in your area, and help maintain that balance otherwise you have to deal with the side effects. As a hunter this should be very important to you, imo.

Also, you might bear in mind that any large-ish snake you see took a few years to get that size, they don't grow fast like mammals tend to do. I recommend learning more about snakes and reptiles, especially species that live in your area.


Maybe next time, borrow or buy a field guide take it with you and see what you discover.

I’d highly recommend checking out Honest-food.net for a variety of venison recipes. The author, Hank Shaw is my go-to for anything wild game. I own several of his books, including Buck Buck Moose which I highly recommend. It is all about everything antlered. Great info on butchering and breaking down a deer, and recipes for every part of a deer. Corned venison tongue sandwiches is one of my favorites.

Oh man... that kind of tracking takes a looooong time to get any good at, and is honestly beyond the reach of most sane people. At least, being able to do it in a timely fashion. Not to mention, if your friend has a paintball gun and is hidden somewhere in the woods... blundering around looking for his tracks is a really good way to get your ass shot.

If you really want to get the drop on him, read up on still hunting and learn how to really keep your eyes and ears open. Keep still more often than you move, and learn how to read good cover in the landscape. Especially this: keep still, keep low, and look for movement.

Deer know what's up: if they sense danger, they freeze in place and go on high-alert. Moving things are easy to see, still things are not. Don't run around like Rambo moving from tree to tree if you plan on sneaking around at all (although honestly, if you're playing around with paintball guns it will rapidly devolve into this).

If you want to pursue tracking, read these books for starters:

• Tracking and the Art of Seeing
  
  
• Tom Brown's Nature Observation and Tracking

If your'e range is under 40yds, I'd look into Barnett Recruit or recruit recurve. I have the recruit recurve, usually $150 at Dicks. I use it mostly for hogs(largest was 205lbs), its a no frills accurate and deadly crossbow.There are other ones with more features but that's up to you. I would buy extra bolts to practice and a cocking rope.

Recruit Recurve:
https://m.dickssportinggoods.com/p/barnett-recruit-recurve-crossbow-package-16bt2urcrtrcrv4x3abw/16bt2urcrtrcrv4x3abw

Recruit:
https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Recruit-Compound-Crossbow-Package/dp/B00BD5B7Y4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505481076&sr=1-1&keywords=barnett+recruit

Cocker Rope:
https://www.amazon.com/Muddy-Buck-Gear-Rope-Cocker/dp/B01B8KX4AS/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505481053&sr=1-2&keywords=cocking+rope


Edit:

I switched over to these bolts this year and strongly recommend them. You'll need to buy field tips but they go deep into the bag and fly true.

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Express-Piledriver-Crossbolt-52140/dp/B00AU6CPKW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505481224&sr=8-6&keywords=20+inch+crossbow+bolt&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

Pro tip for anyone taking pictures of tracks: If it's possible, take a picture of the entire series of tracks so we can see its gait and how it walked/trotted. With all that snow, you probably could've got a good picture with a lot of tracks visible. That is a huge clue when looking at canine tracks. A domestic dog will usually wander around most of the time and will be noticeably more clumsy and inconsistent with its gait. A wild canine will usually know where it wants to go and it will be nearly a straight line with one foot in front of the other.



Anyone that thinks they can positively ID that track from that picture is only fooling themselves.



That being said: According to the book Tracking and the Art of Seeing: How to Read Animal Tracks and Sign by Paul Rezendes, a wolf's front track will be between 3 7/8" to 5 1/2" long by 2 3/8" to 5" wide. The rear track will be 3 1/8" to 4 3/4 long by 2 1/4" to 4 1/4" wide. An eastern coyote's front track will be 2 7/8" to 3 1/2" long by 1 7/8" to 2 1/2" wide. The rear track will be 2 1/2" to 3" long by 1 5/8" to 2 1/8" wide.


According to that, a big coyote and a small wolf will come within 1/8" of overlapping in the size of their paws. And now add in that soft snow will splay out their toes and the fact that when snow melts even a little, the track expands.... and you have yourself quite the dilemma on what you're looking at.



Edit: I swear I'm not making a sales pitch, but that book was a great purchase. http://www.amazon.com/Tracking-Art-Seeing-Animal-Tracks/dp/0062735241

Meat Eater by Steven Rinella is a wonderful book about his life as a hunter.
American Buffalo is another book from Rinella that not only tells of the hunt but contains a great history lesson.

I use 2 moultrie M880s, 2 moultrie D-55-ir, and 1 spypoint BF-6.

If you can find the moultrie m880 from 2013, snag em. Phenominal quality and trigger speed. The low glow infared doesn't spook animals at all from what i've noticed. Can find em on amazon. They look like this

I picked up a 2014, and though it is 8mp just like the 2013, the quality was garbage. Horrible aperture and shutterspeed compared the the 2013. things like stationary trees on the outer edge of the focus were blurred, images were always a bit washed out, and lacked the clarity I was getting from my 2013 m880s. Do not get m880s that look like this

As for my other 3 cams, they're all good for the price. The moultrie D55s are a tad slower on trigger speed than my m880s, but for the most part they still get good pictures. If an animal is sprinting past my cams at full speed, so far only my m880 and spypoint capture it.

The spypoint BF-6 i use isn't as great for image quality as the m880, however i picked it up to test it for a few reasons. It has a detection range out to 65 feet, where the m880 seems to be around 45 feet.

As well, it was no glo infrared flash, compared to the m880s low glo. I wanted to test the different infrared flashes against each other.

Since I've only used two models of moultries and one spypoint, I can only suggest those. If I had to choose what to get more of between the 3, right now I choose to get more of the 2013 m880s. However I've only recently started using the spypoint, so I need some more time with it to determine the pros and cons.

I've seen and read some good things about bushnell trophy cams, I know a few models from either 2009 or 2010 had some issues with electrical shorts and overly sensitive triggers. But I've seen some quality images from those cams. When I'm in the market for a new camera to add to the collection, I'll most likely checkout one of those.

Here's an album with a few shots, The first 3 images are from m880s, the last 2 are from D-55-ir. I don't have any from my spypoint available right now.

You obviously don't know anything about Steven Rinella. He is probably the most honest, humble author and outdoorsman I have come across. His book Meateater is awesome and deserves a read by every hunter.

Assuming pretty short distances and the need to acquire your reticle and target quickly, have you considered a red dot instead of a traditional magnified optic? They're quicker than anything out there - no irons to line up or anything - just put the dot on the thing and pull the trigger and it's down. Something like this would work nicely - https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Crossfire-Red-Sight/dp/B07YDN9364?th=1

Mittens or those hand warmer like this.

you can almost never go wrong with a Labrador!! A couple folk that hunt have dogs they rescued, just trained them to be family/retrievers and the dog picks up on it.

i used the books Wolter's puts out

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Dog-Revolutionary-Training-Method/dp/0525245499

just put in the time and you will have a good dog

84.00 each is not really that good of a price. I have some of those cameras and they are my lease favorite due to how basic they are. I got 2 for $100 on Amazon once. You get what you pay for. Gandermountain, not sure if you have those near you had the 880 series from the same maker for $109.99. Was 179.99 regular price. I got 2 and love them. I currently have 8 cameras on our 120 acre family spot

http://www.amazon.com/Moultrie-M-880-Game-Camera-Model/dp/B00HAH6K8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412238508&sr=8-1&keywords=moultrie+880

How about this spotting scope? Found it on amazon with good reviews. Just want to buy one for my kids to spotting animals when camping, but I'm not familiar with the products. Thanks.

[Water Dog by Richard Wolters.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0525247343/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0525245499&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TH73C8M3M3RQ65VVYW2) This book has been around since the 60s. It's easy to follow and it worked well for my dog. It does not have any of the more advanced techniques but it will certainly get you started.

How about this spotting scope? It only needs $55. It features 20x to 60x magnification and 60mm objective lens, BAK-4 Porro prism. Great for bird and weather watching.

Check these books out, they are a great read:

Book 1: Just a general overview of the process

Book 2: The author, a woman, taught herself and mounted her own squirrel

EDIT: Homebrew taxidermy is kind of a thing here in Portland.

Check out :
[Water Dog] (http://www.amazon.com/Water-Dog-Revolutionary-Training-Method/dp/0525247343) by Richard Wolters or, for other fowl,
Gun Dog by the same guy.

While I don't hunt fowl (I'd like to, no time, water, or land to go on right now) my uncle did for many years and used those books to produce very well trained dogs. The g/f and I have a golden/chesapeake bay retreiver mix that's about six months old. We've been doing basic training with out of Water Dog and it's worked well so far. I'd reccomend them to anyone with a breed that has the particular behavioral inclinations of a pointer or retriever.

Check out the Barnett Recruit. A friend has one and swears by it.

I am no good for the bandolier..... But, I use the Havalon Piranta Edge Knives. Surgical blades and you just replace when dull. I made the switch a year ago and love them.

http://www.amazon.com/Havalon-Piranta-EDGE-Orange-Handle-additional/dp/B0064GNZYM

Call your wma to confirm their carcass disposal rules (that you can leave the bones, etc) and you should be good. Likely won’t find a cleaning facility though.

I definitely prefer quartering a hog into the cooler before leaving rather than loading the whole carcass into the truck.

If you are hunting solo then I would suggest a cheap pulley gambrel or trying out a gutless approach where you split the skin down the spine. Fair warning though, the gutless method works well for a quick cleaning but can be a little awkward on the rear quarters.

I’ve been real happy with my Nikon. Clear optics, no problem with upstate NY weather. ~$150.

Nikon Buckmasters II, 4-12x40mm, BDC, Rifle Scope

resources for you:

/r/guns

/r/gundeals

/r/deerhunting

/r/Archery



Like others said, now is the time to get out there on foot and look at everything. Yesterday I kayaked to a public hunting spot that only has access by water. Walked around about 3 hours and put two cameras out.

You don't need to spend a shit ton of money on a gun. I bought my Savage 11 XP trophy hunter in 6.5 creedmoor for $425 shipped. It came with a Nikon scope mounted to it. It's plenty enough gun for me.

The rifle you should be looking at, with your budget, is the Tikka T3x. In what ever caliber you like. .308 is a terrific caliber. I suggest 6.5 for the great ballistics and low recoil.

Just hover over at /r/gundeals and you'll eventually find the gun you want.

I'd rather have a cheap rifle with a good scope, than a high end rifle with a cheap scope.

Don't get sucked into the, "you have to spend $1,000+ on a scope" people. For hunting, a decent Nikon scope will do fine for you.

When you get your gun, go shoot the shit out of it. Know how it shoots at 50 yards, know how it shoots at 25 yards, know how it shoots at 136 yards, etc... Take guess work out before season. Also, practice shooting the gun how you would when you're hunting. Plan to be leaned up against a tree? sit down against a tree and shoot it. You don't want to practice all year using a bipod on a table, then go out and try and shoot a deer standing.

I bought the mossy oak obsession skin for my turkey shotgun to match my other equipment, and I'm really happy with it. Easy to work with, you apply heat with a heat gun or blow dryer and it's very pliable but still sticks. Had quite a bit left over and it's held up fine for a couple years with no end currently in sight. If I wanted to remove it, I think I could easily with my heat gun.

Steve Rinella from the TV show Meat Eater is actually coming out with a fish and game cookbook. I pre-ordered mine today

https://www.amazon.com/MeatEater-Fish-Game-Cookbook-Techniques/dp/0399590072/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542273497&sr=8-3&keywords=meat+eater

Death in the Long Grass

African Game Trails

these are awesome!!!http://www.amazon.com/Havalon-Piranta-EDGE-Orange-Handle-additional/dp/B0064GNZYM

Deer Saw (for pelvic area)

Butt Out

Adding that for this year I purchased a hand muff pak for cold mornings, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Moose-Techniques-Antelope-Antlered/dp/099694480X

​

Coogan's woods.

https://www.amazon.com/Cogans-Woods-Ron-Ellis/dp/0871089157

One of these: Mossy Oak Graphics 14004-OB Obsession Shotgun Skin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P7CL6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.YkLAb35XNZYT

But, I got it off eBay for $8