(Part 2) Top products from r/Hyundai

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

> Huh that seems like kind of a stupid design, but at least the reason they're dim makes sense

Stupid, yes. Cost-saving, yes.

There's a few reasons they're dim.

First, they're long-life 9005 bulbs. When you pull the out, they'll probably say 9005 on the base and you'll probably see the letter "L" on the base too. "L," as in taking an L, because that's exactly what those bulbs do. They take major L's.

In all seriousness, the "L", "LL," or "L+" you see printed on the base of the 9005 bulbs you take out mean they're long-life bulbs, and they're installed by Hyundai because their sole purpose is to get you out the warranty period. Hyundai doesn't need to be dealing with bulb replacements.

These 9005 Long-Life bulbs achieve their long-life by putting out barely legal amounts of light. Barely legal is great in pr0n, but not so much for driving.

That's why they're so dim. They're long-life bulb, so they start life putting out minimal amounts of light. And if they're being operated as DRLs (I'm not 100% sure if they are on this particular model, but many cars do) then they get even dimmer.

>Are these 9005's?

Your link takes me to Philips H11 bulbs, which don't fit in your car. The owner's manual says that the Elantras with low-beam projectors take 9005 bulbs. H11 is for the reflectors.

Here are two 9011 bulb options:

This bulb will fit your car. If you prefer, you can also get this bulb at all auto parts stores; auto parts stores generally stock Sylvania and not Philips.

This is the bulb I linked to earlier: Philips 9011. It will also fit your low-beams (with the trimming described above).

Both are pretty much equal; it really comes down to price and where you like to shop--Amazon or parts stores. (Or where your mechanic likes to shop...mechanics generally order through parts stores, and parts stores have Sylvania, not Philips).

I don't know if my base sonata had tweeters in the first place, but the ones inside the dashboard up against the inside of the windshield were pretty small. I don't know what they're rated at but I'm powering them just off the stock head unit, it was just plug and play. I'm sure if you went with an aftermarket amp you would get better sound but I didn't want to mess with all of that. my sub is also self powered so external amp for that either. here's links to the speakers I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0LRUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

side note, the smaller in dash speakers made by polk audio made a huge difference, they were more expensive than the larger door speakers I got from rockford, if I could do it over again I'd spend a little more and go with polk audio speakers for the doors as well, or at least the higher end rockford fosgate rather than the $35 ones.

I've got a K&N filter on my 2013 Sonata Hybrid Limited, I get ~4 mpg more and it does give you more acceleration. Getting EBC Redstuff brakes soon with a set of S.Drive tires. Maybe as a small summer project I might make a front strut bar, seems pretty easy just gotta know how to weld.

K&N Filter for your car

EBC Brakes

Tires (I live in cali, so don't recommend these for snowy/rainy areas

Edit: Best oil I have used is probably Mobil 1, with the Mobil 1 oil filter. Though expensive it does work really well together.

Hey bro, I have a 2014 Gen Coupe 6 speed rspec 3.8 :)

The stock shift knob blows. I got this one.

http://www.amazon.com/MOMO-NERBK1-Nero-Shift-Knob/dp/B001GNG0TU

It's a million times better.

Sorry, no. I was just giving you the technical name so you'd have an easier time Googling it.

However if you're into maintaining your own car, there's always Haynes. https://www.amazon.com/Hyundai-Elantra-Haynes-Repair-Manual/dp/1620921081

If it helps, the general advice for replacing all car parts:
Remove things attached to it (wipers, nozzles)
Remove all screws/bolts holding it on
Try prying it up/off from different points
Follow instructions in reverse for the replacement part

1. I’m sure there are a few sockets available that fit but I just use a generic spring loaded one like this
   
   
2. I’m not 100% sure but I believe they just have slightly different labels
   
   
3. I’m not aware of any way to add that feature to another vehicle.

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: http://amzn.to/1r4wgDj Dash Camera I use: http://amzn.to/22BezJu WD40: http://amzn.to/1X1Expk Clay Bar: http://amzn.to/1XUcwiN Wax I recommend: http://amzn.to/1XUdviU Compound: http://amzn.to/1TYJpIw Remove Scratches from Wheels: https://youtu.be/9WQiqYlpxoY?list=PLDD611CFB36FC65F2 Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
Length | 0:06:05






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So basically the headunit came with an adapter and I had to buy the metra adapter specific to the car. I had to solder these two together. The wires are the same color so it’s very easy. Some people splice the wires right on the car, but I didn’t want to modify anything.


adapter I purchased

I'm sorry its the 4105

Their number system is weird. Like the 4105 is better than the 4115 and they're all in no particular order

Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner - 12 oz.

by Amazon.com

Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCOL3I/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_FvKmDb2PMQDDQ

I use Lucas 10013 Fuel Treatment routinely in my car. It's cheap insurance.

I vacuum and then lightly spray this mothers stuff, and microfiber it off. xpost this to /r/AutoDetailing

This is what I'm looking at. Sorry for long link, I'm on mobile

Curt Manufacturing 11402 Class 1 Trailer Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNR27KO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PZb7BbKR0FNGV

Swagman XC Cross-Country 2-Bike Hitch Mount Rack (1/1/4 and 2-Inch Receiver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VO1YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J1b7BbGCEYVVC

https://www.amazon.com/SK-Piece-Turbo-Socket-Removal/dp/B0009WRKX4

This works perfect for pulling those stupid wheel locks off. Pound it on with a hammer then crank it loose. If your not comfortable with that your dealership should have a master set that they can remove it with or a tire shop/dealer should have that socket set to force them off

Fuses are a fail safe in case there is a surge, they don't control how much current goes through the outlet. But even if there is a surge you still have the charger as a secondary fail safe. If the bigger fuse still blows, then it's the charger. Car fuses are dirt cheap at a few cents a pop, and you should have them in glove box anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/120-Assorted-Truck-Mini-Fuse/dp/B0045K2Q9Y