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Buy a color calibrator, or do it very crudely (if you are selling prints I would not do this) and hold your phone next to your MacBook and use the basic software adjustments like contrast, gamma, and rgb settings to match it. A proper color calibrator will ensure your photos are accurate and as even as they can be across all screens. Some of the higher end ones even allow camera and printer calibration. Once again, unless you are just shooting for fun, id STRONGLY recommend actually buying a proper calibrator like these:
Datacolor spyder5PRO or the spyder5elite

x-rite colormunki display or the x-rite idisplay PRO

Thanks for the info! I just wanted to clarify and make sure I’m understanding you.

So I have a MacBook Pro 2016 so it should have the NVME SSD right ?

You said in order to take advantage of thunderbolt you need a drive faster than usb 3. Are you talking about the drive in the computer or the external harddrive ?

lacie 2 TB

So I was looking at this 2 TB harddrive with thunderbolt. It’s 169

Versus the usb 3.0 2 TBs that are like 60 bucks from WD or Seagate.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-f6aBbHKYWEEV


I’m trying to figure out which I should buy .

Yeah I would try importing directly from your camera. If it uses Mini USB, I have this cable and it works great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZC1RTI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have this SD card adapter and it works perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KXWIHZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep active projects on 2.5" laptop solid state drives I put in cheap SSD enclosures (like these ). I work off these and keep them around as 'warm' storage.

For cold storage I have large (4TB) spinning hard drive externals, which works but isn't so safe. I should really move to some Raid system.

In general this works for me and is pretty cost conscious :)

I did a little research into it a while back but then stopped when I began traveling. The tricky part is that new controllers can be pricey, and used controllers on Craigslist all tend to be slider. BUT, I did find a few decent candidates.

8 dials for $85

16 dials for $220 (admittedly they do look super pretty)

And I have no idea where I'd map them all (or even how many of them could be mapped), but 32 dials for $150.

On the software side, there should be some free control-mapping apps out there, but I don't have any links off hand.

I don't know about the mini, but I use this : https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-BCF2000-BEHRINGER-B-CONTROL-FADER/dp/B000CZ0RJ2

And life is good. :)

I learned lightroom from these two books:

http://www.amazon.com/Lightroom-Streamlining-Digital-Photography-Process/dp/047060705X/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1

http://www.amazon.com/Vision-Voice-Refining-Photoshop-Lightroom/dp/0321670094/ref=sr_1_9?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1310770515&sr=1-9


The first one give you all the nuts and bolts. It's so important to figure out how you want

• Set up catalogs
  
  
• Name your files
  
  
• Convert to DNG or not
  
  
  
• Other neat stuff
  
  
  The second book is more about the artistic side. (the author also has a great blog)
  
  
  Good luck!
  
  
  

Check out YouTube tutorials for sure, that's where I learned the most. Also Tony Northrup's book is probably the best print resource.

Adobe Lightroom Classic CC Video Book https://www.amazon.com/dp/0997950528/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gt8XBbGB1F66F

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-CENTROPHORUS-2000-Gaming-Buttons-Weight/dp/B00HTK1NCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480089044&sr=8-1&keywords=red+dragon+mouse

I just use the cheap thing.
It's ugly as hell, but it is comfortable and the being able to adjust the sensitivity on the fly is nice.

I started with Scott Kelby's Lightroom book. He does a great job explaining how to use Lightroom based on what you're trying to get done.

I don't believe you can calibrate the phone, but you can calibrate your laptop using something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Photoshop-Lightroom-Digital-Photographers-Voices/dp/0133979792 This taught me everything I know! You need to click "Library>Previews>Build Smart Previews" it'll say something about build 1 or build all, click build all and it should do it.

The Scott Kelby book is good.

Welcome!

Weddings are a lot of work and stress, its an all day event filled with every event from action to low light to still life to portraits and group photos. It's a lot of work.

Before I say anything this book is going to blow your mind: http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Questions-Answers-Voices-Matter/dp/0321929500

Buy that and read that front to back.

Now to answer your question, it depends on my client for what I offer them. I am an artist at heart and I believe offering my clients an album is a better way to have their lovely day remembered. The clients will see their proofs online on my site and pick the ones for the album which I design and they get those picked images for web and facebook and everything. If they want more images they can get both the album and the usb/download of images (# of images depends on hours shot so like 6 hours = 200 images because of how I shoot, and my acceptance rate is low and I can't say 100 images per hour cuz I may only get 1 during that hour). If they don't want the album they can get the set amount of images for swapping it out. Or they can get both at a discounted rate. Whew.

I print through millers lab now for all my prints and kiss.us for my albums. I've been shooting weddings since 2009 and have done a lot of traveling and shot over 50 weddings or so. not a lot if you ask me but I'm working on that too ;)

To figure out your price (something I struggled with when I started) was very hard. Do I charge based on experience or creativity or my customer service? It's all of those to be honest but one thing is you have to have a basis of knowledge to go off of. how much is it for you to run your business? upkeep and taxes and gear and cleaning and editing and ect ect. you have to know this stuff to have a good place of where to start. You also have to do market research (what I mean by this is to look around your area at what others at your level are charging). you're beginning, it's okay to make mistakes. As much as I hate making mistakes it's better that I made that mistake and I learned 80 things from it than to not make it and continue doing something wrong.

Make sense?

They already make several products like that:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XTOUCHMINI-BEHRINGER-X-TOUCH-MINI/dp/B013JLZCLS

It looks like it's "exFAT" file system, showing as "USB Drive" in properties and connected via a USB 3.0 cable.

This is the drive I'm using right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1IES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The drive is nearly empty (I just wiped everything so I can use it as a lightroom drive) so I'm not too worried if I need to re-format or anything, if thats what it takes?

It's on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X-TOUCH-MINI-BEHRINGER/dp/B013JLZCLS, at least in US. $49.

And see the youtube link I put my other comment here for a video showing it in use.

I buy 2TB regular internal PC harddrives for about $70 when they're on sale. I have a Blackx Thermolake dock that lets me access the drives. I drop the drives into that dock once every week and copy all the photos onto the drives. Then one drive goes into my firebox, one goes into a book shelf on the other side of the house and (once a month) I bring one drive to my parents house so that if my house burns down, I still have copies.

Dock is here: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-5-0Gbps-Docking-Station-ST0019U/dp/B003ZUXXVU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464374853&sr=8-3&keywords=blackx+docking+station

Command to copy photos to the drive looks like:
xcopy D:\Photos\ E:\Photos\ /s/d/c/y

E: is the 2TB drive. /s does all subdirectories. /d Only moves new files

I've been looking at getting this thing, the reviews suggest it would work with Premiere and stuff, so it might also work with Lightroom.

http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-NA16029-Multimedia-Controller/dp/B003VWU2WA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450299886&sr=8-1&keywords=griffin+media+controller

But, it might not really be what you're looking for.

I'm using a Touro Mobile Pro (Hitachi) -> Amazon

• USB 3.0
  
• 7200 U/min.
  
• 1 TB

I wouldn't trust only depending on the Adobe cloud option at all. Besides depending on having internet regularly plus needing the upload speed to keep up with what you're shooting, you're also limited to the 1TB plan unless you want to pay for extra. Even if you only average shooting about 8GB a day, you're looking at about 1.5TB of files created.

If it were me I would consider everything shot on this trip as irreplaceable and spend a little more on ensuring I don't lose anything. SD cards and SSDs currently are stupid cheap. On a big trip I would be buying enough SD cards to not have to delete at all until I get home plus enough SSD space to copy onto without deleting anything and not depending on one point of failure.

1. Get enough SD cards to not have to reuse for 2 weeks of shooting.
   
2. External drives enough to cover the entire trip, preferably SSD (Not all one big drive)
   
3. Cloud service independent of Adobe. I use Backblaze for $5/month, but you need to have the external drives plugged in every 30 days or they may not be kept.
   
4. Copy files from cards to external drive daily (and internal to laptop if you have space).
   
5. Upload files to cloud daily/overnight if possible
   
6. Only delete from SD card when you are SURE that there is a copy on the external AND cloud.
   
7. When an external drive is close to full, ship it back home or to a trusted person. If you trust them, they could copy to another drive and ship back to a location you know you'll be.
   
   Using a system like this you're not depending on the internet keeping up, can borrow a laptop to copy files to the external in case your laptop or a drive fails or gets lost/stolen, and limits your exposure to lost photos if something goes wrong.