It is obviously a HUGE risk, but the alternative is getting rid of it and having nothing. So, really what do you have to lose? Be creative, and do your best to weather-proof and critter proof it. They even sell mini dehumidifiers (https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0XFCS/) you could stick in the cabinet to keep it dry internally. Odds are you'll be shit out of luck in a year or so, but you are already shit out of luck with no space in the house so... good luck!

I would recommend Sanwa buttons over anything else except maybe gamerfinger. Those are new and use Cherry MX switches. Industry best stick is the Sanwa JLF but if you want the traditional bat top feel of a street fighter cab go with Happ IL competition joysticks. I would recommend the Zero Delay USB Encoder just search for them on ebay there 10 bucks a pop. Less lag then a ipac and dirt cheap plus they will work with a PS3 so you can do a dual cab. You need a special powerstrip like http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-LCG5-Auto-Switching-Technology/dp/B000L9635G you can probably get one cheaper with some googling. If you go with 2 zero delay usb encoders you have a maximum 19 inputs not including joystick thats enough controller space for 8 buttons plus 3 mode buttons which are start select home on a ps3. But you can map them to Player 1 coin and Escape. You should be able to get by with 20 buttons . Most front ends emulators and software let you map whatever buttons you want you only have to use specific buttons if you dont want to have a specific button tied to something. I would recommend Hypserspin for your cabinet front end.

Yes, it has both s-video and component

Something like this cable?
http://www.amazon.com/pin-mini-Component-YPbPr-Adapter/dp/B0042LHBJ6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346587551&sr=1-4&keywords=s-video+to+component

Will I really see an improvement using component over the s-video? The TV is 27" if it matters

While that can happen, it's not always an issue. Case in point the Xbox One default controllers are wireless WITH audio and mic even... No lag. All the high quality wireless controllers going back to original Xbox and PS2.

Also, what about the tons of wireless USB keyboard and mice? A mouse has to be accurate and fast, and you would notice bad lag. Not as intensive as a game, but still the technology is flawless for that. Controllers CAN lag but don't HAVE to. The new Retrons use BT and are pretty slick example of BT option.


OP: look up "wireless USB transmitter" (not wireless USB adapter; that'll get you all the wireless internet dongles). You'll find ones like this:

www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B0036VNZHA#

Check reviews about lag, pick one of those with your favorite stick!

Understand why you like the model you posed since it's external use, but like many here said to MAME it's a mouse. So why not consider an actual trackball mouse like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002Q42S4E/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yJDSDbNDBWZ8J ?

My cp fits perfectly snug with these clips. Holds it in place nicely.

Rope lights and light strips are great options. For my bartop cab, I got something like this at Home Depot for $10. The light hasn't burned out in 5 years. I even wired a power switch to the outside of the cabinet to turn it on and off.

This is the mount I used . I mounted the "wall" bracket to the shelf where people keep the CRT/LCD. By giving it some distance, I was able to adjust the tilt of the monitor and the position (I moved it higher when I gave up on the idea of playing with bar stools)

VideoSecu Articulating Arm TV LCD Monitor Wall Mount, Full Motion Tilt Swivel and Rotate for Most 15" 17" 19" 20" 22" 23" 24" 26" 27" LED TV Flat Panel Screen with VESA 100, 75 ML12B CB5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O1UYHG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_UlR2tb1ZCGZRR27S

EDIT: here is what the back of the dell monitor should look like when you take off desktop stand.

http://phillihp.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/40.-mount-dell-4-300x225.jpg

Don’t have a cab... but this is how I do my computer.

Power Strip

It has always on ports and a port that controls power for the others. When the computer shuts down the other ones turn off after a min or so. The always on port is my usb power hub and the computer goes into the control port.

I was gonna do this on a cab. The switch turns off the computer and the switch takes care of the rest.

Amazon preorder : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Namco-Museum-Mini-Arcade-Electronic/dp/B07L3YYPZN/ref=pd_sim_63_3/261-9002661-5608764?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07L3YYPZN&pd_rd_r=f6079dd6-714f-11e9-9c07-456f1e30d3e2&pd_rd_w=4iGWQ&pd_rd_wg=ygdVC&pf_rd_p=1b8636ae-4f21-4403-a813-e8849dd46de4&pf_rd_r=9H0VN72NZ3PP3333ZHM3&psc=1&refRID=9H0VN72NZ3PP3333ZHM3

My Arcade Namco Museum Collection - Hong Kong Electronics Fair - 2019, April 15

Video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvUJHyZ9g7s

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so would something like this work in your opinion.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-P8GT-Power-Saving-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B002K8S2J6

Sure. Camco Adjustable Drink Holder-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDQR4G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pricey, but I used this Belkin remote power bar. I simply mounted its remote to the top of my cab, flip the switch, and everything turns on.

I made my own "smart" power strip with this, powered on/off with the PSU, and a short 3 outlet power strip.

https://i.imgur.com/NV0YMQw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SZW0riY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WlpRZFW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EhrGYh6.jpg?1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZZWXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375387790&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

This guy.

I'm in the process of building my own at the moment, and I've decided on using a plumbing/electrical access panel in the bottom of the cab: The one I'm using. There are different sizes depending on your needs.

EDIT: I just realized it might not be immediately apparent to some people what this is. You cut a hole in the wall (or in this case, the bottom of the cabinet) and mount the panel inside. The flanges cover the cut, so it's not a big deal if your cuts aren't that straight. Secure with some construction adhesive. The middle part pops out so that you have access to what's behind.