Top products from r/MPSelectMiniOwners

We found 160 product mentions on r/MPSelectMiniOwners. We ranked the 307 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/MPSelectMiniOwners:

u/paperclipgrove · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Edit: Success! Increased bed heat to 60c and used the famous gluestick. That resolved to lack of adhesion for me and got me a good benchy. now, there are other issues to resolve still - but isn't that half the adventure with this hobby? Thanks for all the help everyone!


Looking for some guidance on the right steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve my new issues.


TL:DR: Installed new glass build plate and PLA prints will not stick. No successful prints over 30 minutes yet. I've had one print completely detach, and this benchy had significant warping. The issue wasn't present with the buildTak - but the buildTak had insane adhesion - too much actually.



Monoprice Select Mini v2. Almost all stock, this is the first build related upgrade. PLA, 50c bed temp, 200c hotend temp, 0.175 layer height, 20% infill, 50mm print speed.


Long Version:

I had been using the buildtak for a few months and had two problems: too much adhesion (breaking prints while removing from buildtak) and the bed was bowing up in the middle.


I bought this borosilicate glass plate and a silicone thermal pad to make sure it would heat up. Installed them, z spacer, attach with 4 binder clips, leveled the bed. Tried using it without any other changes and PLA would not stick at all. Then tried to use some hairspray and it appeared to work after a little fiddling. Finally got what I thought was a good first and second layer. Checked on it about every 10 minutes and suddenly I noticed that it's about half off the glass surface with warping. I was pretty sure it was going to detach completely soon, so I just stopped the print.


Anyone have suggestions on how to properly use glass or some tricks? I was previously using tricks to get less adhesion so this is a bit new - and I'd prefer to keep the glass as flat/smooth as possible (wouldn't prefer to sand it for example).


I've tried heating the bed to 60c and letting it pre-heat for longer to let the glass heat up and that seemed to help, but not completely. I've also tried to slow down the first layer and that seemed to help the first layer adhesion a bit - I haven't re-tried a benchy with a slower 1st layer yet, but I wasn't confident that helped the adhesion enough to prevent the warping.


I printed a bed level test and so long as the PLA stuck, it looks pretty good - although my center is higher than the edges even though all 4 corners look OK - but that's an issue for another day and another thread.

u/JonasPCUser · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Agreed. This was the best investment I could have made in my MPSMV2. I bought this one, there are cheaper ways to go, but I felt that the savings in time and fiddling around cutting glass was well worth the cost. Be sure you first print a 3mm gap adjustment device. I printed several including an adjustable one, but settled on this one from Thingiverse. I did not remove the black pad on my V2, I just use tiny binder clips to attach the glass to the bed. It leveled perfectly and heats very well.


I used a piece of 20 lb copy paper to set my nozzle gap, so even though you own a feeler gauge, I recommend checking it against a piece of paper. You want the first layer to be a flattened tube, not a round tube as it appears in your pictures.


Many people suggest Aqua Net hair spray, but my store only carried it in aerosol. I felt that would be a mess to spray onto the glass, so I got some pump hair spray that was right next to the Aqua Net on the cheap shelf (it had similar ingredients to the Aqua Net, primarily water). I spray the hairspray onto a paper towel and then wipe the cold glass to create a very thin film. I have found that the adhesion is excellent at 50-60 degrees, and the parts pop right off after the bed cools (using PLA, various brands).

u/Magdalus7 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You are good, no worries!

I got this guy:

I believe it's genuine, but if not I can at least attest to its validity. Literally ZERO issues over the past year and a half. Prints beautifully.

If you prefer getting it straight from them, here's ya boy:

It fits right into the carriage of the old one where it clamps around the heatsink and you put the fan on the front, just like the original.

Two big changes with this.


The new wires it comes with are great, but sadly not the same plastic connectors on the end that fit into the motherboard down in the printer, so I chopped off the old ones and swapped them over to one end of the new wires, so they could be plugged in.

I never soldered before getting this printer, but, as I like to stay... "YOU GON' Learn Ta-day!"

Leave enough old wire there for error (or I did at least, for shrink wrap or electrical tape to more than cover the solder point). The convenience of doing this is the other end of the wires leave connectors right near the hotend for the thermistor and the fan which can be disconnected for any reason you need in the future. (its also a negative I found later- as its a flex point on the wire, my thermistor wore out there due to the constant movement and I replaced it for just 8 bucks. However, this is where those quick connectors near the hotend paid off though, because zero soldering required. I snagged a few extras for longevity.



Once it is installed you'll notice it doesn't stick down as far, and when you go to "Home" location, you can't get lower to reach the bed.

If I was home I would snag a picture.. but basically I got longer bed screws (4), 4 spacers (1/4 inch I think?) and incorporated the same springs on top of the spacers (with the longer screws through them). I just took an original screw into a hardware store, found longer versions and spacers that looked like these below:

You'll need spacers OR new longer springs... your call. Pain in the butt to put it together but once screwed in, works like a charm with the same functionality as it did prior, just higher up where the new hotend can reach it.


Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or concerns.

u/1nvent0r · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had this happen on mine. Scrape it off the best you can and use Goo-Gone to purge the remaining adhesive. Once you have a clean metal bed, painters tape works great and is cheap and easy to replace. If you are feeling up to it, you can install a glass bed on top of the metal like I did, just make sure to level the bed right if you do because the glass adds extra space. Then use a purple glue stick for some extra adhesion if you need it!


Here is the link to the bed I am using, and I am completely satisfied so far ->

u/Captain_Shihad · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

As far as the bed wiring goes, it's a common problem for them to get pinched due to the way they are routed and mounted at the factory. This usually ends up in an opening in the circuit (either in the heater or the thermistor wires, or both) because the wire inside the insulation has actually broken. If your bed temp reading shows 0 or 999 during printing or preheating, it has happened to you. This guide helped me with rewiring and rerouting the bed wires to eliminate this problem when it happened to me. If you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself there even a link in there to where you can buy a whole new bed with the wires already soldered on. Then just print the parts they recommend for the new side panel and you're good to go! Also, since I soldered my wires directly off the back of the bed I went with a center mount for the cable brace grommet, there are remixes to the one linked in the guide. As a final note, I recommend a glass bed, this is the one that I got and I just hold it on with small binder clips. With that, a bit of glue stick, and the heated bed, I'm getting the best adhesion I could ever need. After a print is done just throw it in the freezer for 30 minutes and it will pop right off. If you've already seen all this but haven't taken the time to do it, just do it! It's definitely worth it. If it's new info for you then I hope it helps. Happy printing!

u/UbikTheOne · 5 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

It sounds like you are still using the SD card from factory. Do yourself a favor, save the files and throw it out. I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out why my prints would just stop.

It turns out the SD card you get with the printer is just junk. To double check if this is the issue, open up the text gcode file of the solidworks design you saved to the card and look for any abnormalities. Mine would be normal then out of nowhere spit this random GUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU code which was where the nozzle would stop and do nothing during the print.

A fellow redditor on this sub helped me out. I bought a Kingston 2GB SD card and it has been working like a charm.

Also make sure you verify that your bed is level, I did a glass bed upgrade as well and it is working brilliantly.

u/ccpetersen · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.

Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.

u/DaddyBoomalati · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The support page for the Mini has all the links to mods. To get nice prints, I had to:

  1. Fix the z-banding with a printed coupler . This made the biggest difference. You can also order an adapter , but I don’t know the quality.
  2. Get stable temps by adjusting your PIDs. I can just give you mine if you’re interested.
  3. Cool the main board to stop the extruder motor from conking out. The part is also on Thingiverse .

    You may not have to do all these things, but my printer was a train wreck.

    I also put in an E3D v6 hot end for $15 off Amazon and designed a double fan to cool it. You may not need that, but the extra cooling certainly helps with small parts.

    I’ll upload some pics of print quality later. I have to head to work now.
u/TeeJS · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just print the shroud, and then add a 40mm fan of your choice. I'm partial to this one: , as it's super quiet and powerful. You'll need re-wire the new fan in as well. I usually install a female socket right above where the wiring exits the "tower" to make future fan replacements easier.

u/ExpectDeer · 6 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)

  1. I use a 3 mm borosilicate glass bed by Go 3D. I started with dollarstore glass which worked well enough but it wasn't thick enough to compensate for my curved bed.
  2. I washed it in hot water and soap. I had to use a razor blade to scrape off some tough weird spots that were likely from the manufacturing process. I got it squeaky clean and let it air-dry.
  3. Meanwhile, I removed the buildtak and adhesive from the printer. It didn't take long. The trick was heating the bed up to 100 and carefully using a razor blade scraper. I have more info on this; ask if you're interested.
  4. I installed the glass bed, making sure I didn't touch the surface more than necessary.
  5. I cleaned it again with 70% isopropyl and a glasses cleaning cloth (I picked up a bulk pack of them from Amazon). The isopropyl is in a spritz bottle that I bought at a local drugstore. I top it up using a bigger refill bottle.
  6. And that's basically it. I repeat #5 every time I print. Spritz, scrub a bit with the cloth over where the previous print was, and done. It takes maybe 10 seconds. I've been printing on it for about 2 months now and haven't taken it off to re-clean with soap and water. Some people say to use acetone, but I've had luck with just 70% iso.

    That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)
u/MrBreadWater · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

[Hatchbox PLA] ( may seem a bit obvious, but to newcomers they might not know what kind of filament to get. Hatchbox has some quality stuff! I have had exceptional luck with the black.

I would also recommend the Raspberry Pi Zero W for use with octoprint. Here is a [kit with everything you need] ( from Canakit on Amazon ($35) as well as the [original] ( from the Adafruit store ($10). Note that the original comes with nothing but the Pi, so you will need your own accessories (i.e. Micro Usb OTG plug, mini HDMI to HDMI adapter, micro usb charger, etc)

u/Jaffiss · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

While the nozzle will wear, it's not significantly more than normal use. Hardened nozzles can help, but transmit heat less effectively. Replacement tips are literally about $1.50 each (BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs) ) super easy to replace, and frequently cheaper/easier than cleaning.

u/alc6379 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Honestly this is the route I'd go.

I printed my own extruder, and it worked great for a while, but I think I set the infill too low. Next thing I know, I was having underextrusion again due to low spring tension. I haven't found an arm/extruder on Thingiverse yet that has adjustable extrusion, so I picked up one that did.

This is the one I used. I'm pretty happy with it, because it was really easy to adjust. Almost too easy.

u/jmunson · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

works great but I frankly only replaced it once, after I needed to replace it a second time I left it off and have not noticed a difference. Without the insulation it is easier to keep clean and to get the nozzle to seat nicely when switching nozzles.

u/gravityaddiction · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

A few things typically break shortly after you start using one of these.. the biggest pain, and it's not even a printed part, is rewiring the bed so they don't rub on the hole going into the base.

Printed parts, I print an extra extruder arm and baseplate (part on top of the tower that feeds filament. This breaks second. I'll find the file I like to use, it's hard to find on thingiverse for some reason. WK7 has one, but it's not as tight and gives space for flexible filament to bend. Further you'll need, at least one and send me a self addressed stamped envelope and 1 dollar and i'll send you one. IM for an address.

Height spacer for when you get fed up with a warped print bed and move to glass.

There are a few options for each one, if you want links I can provide you the ones I like. It's sometimes funner to see what's available and play with the options yourself.

u/bwyer · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

u/Yoyo_Mastar179 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

This actually happens because the air gap between the raft and the print is too big, however, if you make it too small your raft will not come off. I recommend what most people say about a better build surface.

Personally, an 18$ glass build plate from amazon has worked wonders for me, better than any painters tape or buildtak.

I add a generous amount of hairspray and let it heat up to dry.

If you are interested, here is the link to the glass plate:

u/raptor1jec · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.

What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.

You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.

After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.

You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.

Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.

u/ZilockeTheandil · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

OK, now that I've actually used my thermal pad, I love it! The print I'm currently running is adhering even better than normal, plus I didn't even use the clips! It's just tacky enough to hold the glass in place.

u/Tron08 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:

Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:

u/AP0is0nb3rry · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have a thermal pad sandwiched between the glass plate and the bed and it provides decent friction to keep the plate on but I also use two metal bag clips in the front and back to make sure the plate is pressed against the bed.

Glass Plate: BKM 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Plate, Select Mini

Alternatively, I've heard of people using glass they cut from a picture frame using a glass cutter

Thermal Pad: uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

Not entirely necessary but supposedly this helps transfer heat more evenly and you get a huge sheet so you can get like 4 uses out of it if you optimize your cutting.

u/hardbooch · 6 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

This happened to me after a while as well. The solution was to buy a piece of borosilicate glass like this and clip it on with small binder clips. I even ended up putting a piece of buildtak on top of my glass because I really like buildtak but needed the perfect flatness of glass.

u/Gladauk · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Picture of my glass bed

I just used binder clips until I can model a more permanent solution. I also left spaces in the corners so I can still adjust my bed leveling as needed.

I did not need to print any spacers at all, I was able to lower the bed enough where the head didnt crash into the bed.

sorry about the blurry quality, I am in the middle of a print. Now earlier the dimensions I showed you for the glass, that was for the mini select not the i3.

also for better heat transfer and less movement of the glass I did add a layer of silicone to the bed

it is not necessary to have the silicone at all but for me I like the peace of mind of not having anything slip. (I tend to print a lot while I am sleeping or at work)

Doing a bit of research this is an article about glass beds specifically tailored to your printer

u/BDazzle · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX)

u/Slyde01 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

any time. btw this is the card i bought, after someone here recommended it. So far its worked flawlessy for me, when other perfectly good cards i already owned do NOT work with the printer at all.....

u/SmileAndDonate · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Info | Details
Amazon Product | BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

u/Kronoshifter246 · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's almost certainly it.

If you're switching to glass, I would recommend against using binder clips, and instead using some silicone pad, as the binder clips caused my glass plate to bow upward in the center. I used this one. This does require you to peel off the BuildTak and remove the adhesive beneath it. I got it to come off with some vaseline and about 30 minutes of scraping with the included scraper tool while the bed was heated.

After that I just cut out some little squares of the silicone and rested the glass on top of it. Works like a charm.

u/2vulgar · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I ordered this fan to upgrade the 30mm hotend fan on my MP Select Mini v2 and also printed this fan shroud to mount it to. It runs flawless and all I had to do was cut off the plug that came on the fan, cut the wires from the stock fan on the printer, and solder the new wire to the cut wires on the printer. The new fan is a 3 wire plug, and all you need are the red and black wires. The yellow one is not used, just just leave it clipped.

I forgot to mention, use heat shrink tubes on the red and black wires, to cover up the raw soldered wires.

u/LaughsTwice · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Thank you so much!

As for the hot end, if i just wanted to replace the 30mm fan with a Noctua 40mm fan using this, and i didn't want to splice wires, which ones of these two fans should i get? This one (5V) or this one?

u/TCL987 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used pieces of Silicone Thermal Pad to "float" the glass on top of the bed. I bought the 0.5mm thick pad I linked to and it has worked but it really only touches the glass in a few spots. It's enough to keep it in place but a 1.0mm pad might make better contact and transfer heat better.

My Mini's heat bed seems to be lower in the centre so my glass mostly only makes contact at the corners, since yours is higher in the centre you might have an issue with the glass resting on the centre and rocking side to side. If you have this issue you might be able to use pieces of thinner silicone pad in the centre and pieces of a thicker pad in the corners.

Also you don't need to completely fill the gap between the heat bed and glass with thermal pad, doing so will make it difficult to remove the glass. Ideally you want it to stay in place while printing but pop off with a little force when lifted.

u/Dbzfan5000 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The fan is 40mm so you need an adapter.

And the adapter is here

All you have to do is snip the old fan off, remove it, connect the noctua fan to the adapter, the put the adapter where the old fan was. Then you just have to connect the wires.

u/Rebornfungus · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I’ve been considering the z-axis stabilizer upgrade. But I’m not really having the issues that warrant it. Maybe I’m not pushing it speed wise enough.

Is the mk8 upgrade you are doing like this one here?

I kinda like the idea of printing parts for it on itself. Or maybe for a second bigger printer at some point.

u/iceynyo · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Super weird, I just clipped the cables for the old fan and put the noctua fan in with the included press joints and it worked.

This is the one I ordered:

Is the one you got different?

u/maswell · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

uxcell® 5 Pcs Silver Tone 10mm x 4mm x 4mm Sealed Premium Flanged Ball Bearing

Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer

I bought the two items above. You keep the current extruder gear, install the extruder minus the new gear and replace the bearing on the new extruder with one of the flanged ones from amazon. I think I installed flange down. It only works in one orientation. This is currently working great and much more sturdy and with better, adjustable pressure on the filament.

u/ChronoKing · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That is one but I would just buy one, they are pretty cheap.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm)

u/uhmIdontknow · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought these ones. They are probably the same as what /u/jdgmntday listed but they ship to the US. They are a little bit longer than stock, so you have to re-level your bed; but they work great.

u/fiberspy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Is there a way to test if the thermistor is shorting or any resources you'd recommend checking out?

My printer will randomly shut off, during some prints and go completely black. Then I'll have to replug the power adapter and flip the switch on and off a couple times to get it to boot back up.

I already got a replacement power supply recommended by the wiki ( ) because I thought that was the issue at first, but no luck since it happens with that supply in, too.

What's weird is that I was able to complete one print with the original power supply, and I came back well after it had finished, and the machine was still on and everything.

Then, it started crapping out again. I even took off the side panel by the sd card slot and aimed a small fan at the board to give it some cooling in case the card was overheating (even though this isn't a modded machine), but that died mid-print, too.

I checked the board and didn't see and obvious shorts, so I'm thinking maybe it's the bed.

Tl;dr - Tried a lot of stuff, and I think it's the thermistor. Any way to check or recommended guides?

u/Psyc0_T3ch · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I got 2 of these and upgraded the chassis fan and hot end fan as well (you will need an adapter printed first to accommodate the larger size, It just fits when the X axis is in the home position).
They are fairly quiet, however somewhat still noticeable during operation. I really just wanted to upgrade them. A coworker recommended Noctua fans to me so I tried those.

u/anonananananabatman · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

For those looking for a glass bed:

Borosilicate glass has high heat tolerance and is resistant to rapid heat changes. The one posted here fits perfectly on MPSMv2

u/radi0raheem · 5 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had the PTFE inside the heat throat go bad and couldn't find the 3.5mm OD replacement tube anywhere so I replaced mine with this, $16:

Comes with 1x full metal heat throat and 3x replacements that use partial PTFE like the stock piece.

It's a little shorter than the stock piece so you'll need to raise your bed up a bit. I use a glass bed on top of the stock bed so that added some height, but I had to get some longer (4x M3 x 20mm I think) screws to replace the stock screws on the bed and now it lines up great. Full thread from when I needed help getting the bed to the proper height:

u/calicocal · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I know that I had the arm on my extruder crack. I replaced it with this one and it's worked great ever since.

u/cpr420 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You can print without it. It's not too expensive to replace and it helps keep the temperature stable and use less power(leaving more for the bed heater). You'll probably want some polyimide/kapton tape too.

u/bochoh · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Yes! You can't use a SDHC card with this printer. You'll have to find a regular old micro SD card (typically less than 4gb). They are available on Amazon (I just ordered one today)

u/mxm_g · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED)

u/drew146 · 7 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Now may be a good time to upgrade to a metal lever.

Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer

u/matt687 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The anycubic one looks like the way to go since this is only temporary. The pressure is still on the plastic so it'll eventually break. Can you point me to the instructions you used to replace it? Thanks

u/damiangerous · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I don't know if you could heat that up without damaging the push fit part, so...

u/Quasimorte · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

It takes a minute but I set up about 10 degrees high. Buy this for under the glass and it will stick to the bed and transfer the heat really well.

u/79DieselRabbit · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

This is what I ended up using and seems to be working well:
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm

u/blahism · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I use this thermal pad:

it seems to greatly help distribute the heat vs just glass clipped on bed

u/thrawn86 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

i think most revisions use an M6 coupler

useful to keep around, I used some to make dryboxes.

u/028XF3193 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The collar that holds in the tube exploded for me. I ended up just replacing it altogether with this:

All metal, not likely to break, just reuse the same bearing that's in the old extruder and you're good to go.

u/Romkslrqusz · 5 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I’ve been using this one all year

Some folks use binder clips to keep their on, I prefer silicon thermal pads (see the frequently bought together section)

You’ll also want hairspray or glue sticks. I use a purpose-made product called magigoo that helps with adhesion at the start of the print, then pops right off once the build plate cools

u/mh0rton · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Be careful doing this.

I think i ruined my feeder bearing doing this and had to replace it with this

Was not a simple procedure... but worth it in the end

u/OddCar · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought 10 for ~$7 on amazon JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10

u/BFry08 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just ordered this one myself off Amazon.

TOOTO 5 PCS Male Straight Pneumatic 4mm M6 Ptfe Tube Push In Quick Connect Fitting PC4-M6 for Reprap 3D Printer Bowden Extruder

u/chejrw · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That’s the one I have used successfully with my minis. I’ve never had success with an sdhc card

u/Fivecent · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That would work, you'll just have to be careful that you've still got enough length on the tube that you don't choke up the filament path when the X axis is all the way out.

Here's a link for replacement fittings.

This is for extra PFTE tubing

u/brannana · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Here's an aluminum version of the part that will work I took this info from the Wiki. You'll need to either take the bearing from your old extruder, or buy a 4x10x4mm bearing to use the original gear and not have to re-calibrate your extruder settings.

u/bL4cKBiRD3790 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought these about a month ago and they're working out well. The only issue is they're slightly longer than the original one so you'll have to get a spacer or lower the bed a bit

u/Flenke · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Since they're not a standard version, they are a bit trickier to find. You could always upgrade to something better that uses something more common -

u/video_descriptionbot · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Title | MonoPrice Select Mini 3D Printer - Quickly Clearing a Hotend Jam!
Description | Please visit for more information on this and many other projects! As in this episode, we will be taking a closer look at unjamming the Monoprice Select Mini's hotend as we ran into a bit of plug from the PLA however found it strange hot the hotend comes apart so figured I would share this to possible save you the same grief in figuring this out! Check out the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer here: Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagr...
Length | 0:05:17


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u/screwyluie · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

If it won't lock in again then replace it. Someone on here suggested these to me: JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10

They work and don't require any new printed parts, and prime shipping means they show up fast.

u/diesel5543 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had an issue with z-banding on my MPSM V2. I ended up buying a flexible z-coupler and installed it, completely fixed the issue. Link is below. It replaces the stock z-coupler which inherently has flaws due to the manufacturing process. You’ll have to find the coupler that fits your z-axis rod though before you buy.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft...

u/benji0727 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I’m telling you get a 2 gig micro from amazon and it will work so much better. This is the one I got.

Sandisk microSD 2GB memory card

u/ponzi314 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

>oes stick hella hard if you use a glue stick, but when I've used no glue and PLA, then let the print cool down, it slides off with no effort


So something like that? Id prefer to do as little mods as possible but im noticing glass it defiantly needed as the prints are hard to get off.

u/LazaroFilm · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

For the glass bed I recommend getting a borosilicate glass. It’s that the old Pyrex is made of. Resist heat differences without shattering. Here’s the link of the one I got. 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/ Corners Cut for 3D Print

u/ThePunisher1911 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Like ClassH said it has to be 2 gig or less non HC. I use this one with no issues
Kingston 2 GB microSD Flash Memory Card SDC/2GBSP (Single Pack)

u/taylormadearmy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just a cheap one.
I used this one: EAONE All-Metal V6 J-Head Hotend Full Kit with 5 Pcs Extruder Brass Print Head + 5 Pcs Stainless Steel Nozzle Throat for E3D V6 Makerbot RepRap 3D Printers

However - it did come with a defective heater cartridge and Amazon did refund all of my money. I ended up using the original cartridge.

I also ordered a clone from Bangood as a spare - it took a while to arrive but looks identical.

u/Mkwpros412 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Use this card, I had the same issues as you and this one works

u/savetheclocktower · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I've got this one on order and it should arrive tomorrow. Found it from the wiki page.

u/i-get-stabby · 7 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Below is a copy paste of a comment I made the other day on the cause of this problem.

the shaft of the z motor is 3mm and the threaded rod is 4mm the coupler they use is 4mm on both sides so the z motor shaft is pushed to the side inside the coupler so the center axis of the motor is off .5mm from the center axis of the threaded rod. Imagine putting a drill bit in a drill off-center of the chuck, the bit would wobble around in a circle. The is what the threaded rod does and pushes on the gantry every revolution. You should have horizontal stripes in the sides of your prints that coincide with the threads of the threaded rod. Since this is my first printer, I thought those were layer lines. upon closer inspection I realized the layers are much thinner and they were shifting back and fourth. I replace the coupler with one of these and it fixed the issue. What you need to look for in a coupler is that it is 3mm on one side and 4mm on the other. Now that I have fixed that , I can now see the vertical lines in my prints that were masked by the horizontal lines. It is probably due to the smooth side of the y belt running on the plastic toothed pulleys.

u/Connor__Mcleod · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Here is the link.

And this was printed at .30625 layer height

u/krush38 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners I bought this set, and I think it's actually finer prints than the stock nozzle.

u/putamare · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Amazon, last week.

As far as I can tell, there isn't an X or Y move command.

u/Hardack · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)

u/RandallOfLegend · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You took apart the hot end. I am assuming to remove to the nozzle for cleaning? There are two threaded holes in that picture. The larger one for the nozzle, and the smaller one has an L shaped bracket used to hold the thermistor in place. The thermistor goes into the unthreaded hole NEXT to the threaded hole. The thermistor wires look bent in that photo because the L shaped bracket squashes them.

Here's two links you will need to replace the insulation material.

reinstall the nozzle, tightly but not too tight. re-install the thermistor and L bracket. Then wrap everything with the insulation and use the 1/4" kapton tape to hold in insulation in place.

u/kaneillustration · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Amazon. Here is the links:

GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print

ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

u/ChunkyDay · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I ended up just building an Octoprint server as the SD Card fiasco is a joke.

But in the meantime, it's this guy you want

u/CommanderScotty · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had the same problem. This fixed mine.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm)

u/JoelTrottier · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

This guy?

They should mark it as such, because people in the Q&A section as well as in the reviews are warning that its the V1.

u/SunsetMaple · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The mini can't read SDHC cards and 2GB seems to be the limit. It is really unfortunate. I bought a couple 2GB cards off Amazon, and only this one worked:

u/LilBabyVirus5 · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

All right yall back at it again with a little lesson in 3d printing. An all metal hotend is made with much higher quality and there is no ptfe lining on the inside of the cooling block. The MPSM comes with an E3D v6 hot end (not all metal) however the nozzle does not matter if it is all metal or not.

Nozzles I bought:

Edit: I recommend buying the parts from the link you posted due to the tools you get and the nozzles for all the same price

u/hmspain · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I think your concern is well founded; just pull back on the blue ring, dislodge the white tube, and reverse the procedure.

Worst case, you are replacing the Bowden tube; they are cheap, and you can order a few spares :-).

u/AssumedLeader · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The blue-topped connector is a fitting that connects to a lock-washer-looking piece of garbage that sits just inside the extruder case. If you unscrew the top of the extruder case, you should see that the lock-washer-thing has shattered, which means the connector can't keep the tube held in place. On another extruder, you'd be able to swap out this shit plastic fastener with something like this:
But this won't work with the stock extruder casing because there's no threading to screw it into. If you were able to drill your own threading or swap out the plastic bit that broke, you'd be all set. Otherwise, you need a new extruder case and you might as well swap out all the parts with cheap metal versions that won't break down.

u/Baconwich · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The reviews at the bottom say this is the V1, but it's offered in black and white, so I'm not sure which one this is.

Going to see how low the price can go on Black Friday, but $250ish is a decent price.

u/tiny_tim_ · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I've got 3 or 4 of the Winkeyes AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A Switching Power Supply Adapter from Amazon
that I use with my MP Mini Delta's and Select Mini's V1/V2

There is no harm in using a higher amperage power supply. The printer will only take what it needs.

u/heathenyak · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Its teflon tube so glue isnt gonna stick to it. I tried. you need a M6 bowden connector and a M6 nut. Print this part by removing the 2 screws holding the bowden connector down and removing it. Hold the tube in place for the duration of the print with your thumb. It will suck but you can do it, i believe in you. This part will let you attach a regular threaded bowden connector to the new MP select mini v2 with the modified cheap ass bowden fitting. Once that's in place, even only halfway screwed in print the base of this part. you don't need the arms, just the base. Once that's printed remove your extruder feeder, screw in the new base, using the M6 nut attach the threaded bowden conenctor. Put the old arm on, old screw, etc. You're good to go. How do I know this? Oh no reason. I just did it a few days ago...

Or RMA your printer and wait 3 weeks for a new one...your choice. A pair of M6 nuts cost me like $0.49 at the hardware store and 10 bowden connectors was like $8 on amazon. I also tried this "bolt on replacement" and it didn't fit correctly.

u/narddawg314 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

bed wayyyyyy to far from the nozzle. I got tired of dealing with that shit, so I got some borosilicate glass and use a glue stick...

u/shuttup_meg · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You don't have to have anything between the glass and the bed, but I used this stuff:

I didn't use any clips to hold it on, just gravity--which won't work on your space station unless you are spinning your setup--but I did have one print that messed up and moved the bed a little. I probably should use clips, even though that wouldn't have saved my print. i.e. if a print is at the point where the nozzle is trying to push the part with a force that is able to overcome the coefficient of static friction you have probably already lost the print.