(Part 2) Top products from r/MechanicAdvice

As I stated elsewhere I don't think a torque wrench should be on the top of the 'recommended tools' list, esp if you just plan on doing routine maintenance. They are definitely good to have once you start tackling larger projects but a good torque wrench can be quite expensive and I think that money is better spent elsewhere when first putting together a tool set for routine maintenance.

I'd recommend:

• jack & jackstands
  
• a decent socket set. I personally have this set and it has proven to be a good starting point that I then built off of as I needed other tools (including said torque wrench, etc). I've owned & used smaller sets as well but for the extra $50 or so that it costs to step up to the 255-piece set I think it's worth it.
  
• Good ratchets - While the craftsman ratchets themselves will get you by I'd also recommend a better set of ratchets if you plan on doing frequent work. I got these and absolutely love them, my buddy likes them enough that he is buying a set now that he has used mine.
  
• Ratchet wrenches are unnecessary but a nice luxury. I got Gearwrench ratchet wrenches for 50% off during the annual Xmas sale at Advance Auto parts so I'd say to wait for that if you can.
  
  Edit to add:
  
  
• Tire iron
  
• Threadlock blue for reassembly
  
• MAPP gas torch (can get them for like $40 at Home Depot IIRC... VERY useful for stubborn nuts/bolts).
  
• If you do plan on tackling larger projects it might also be good to get a breaker bar for extra leverage on said stubborn nuts/bolts, though this also introduces more risk of breaking bolts).
  
• If you do end up breaking bolts, it's always good to have a decent drill and drill bits

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU?sa-no-redirect=1


---------------

The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.

A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.

If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.

Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.

Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.

Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.

Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.

If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.

I hope this helps.

Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.

I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart

My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.

As long as you

• Don't set a tool down anywhere other than on your cart!
  
  
• Always put away tools you put on your cart between every job. No exceptions.
  
  you will never lose a tool.
  
  On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
  
  On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
  
  On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
  
  Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
  
  Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

I check for vacuum leaks with a MityVac.
I check the electrical system with a voltmeter across the battery terminals (or a plug in unit into 12V outlet. You should get something like 14.5V with the car at around 1500RPM. That's how I know the alternator is working. I often add a voltmeter to any car I own, but for most people it's easier to just use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0
Which I recommend.
I do not trust IAC's much past 100K miles, since they are usually impossible to clean good.

If they are the same as the MK4 Golf/Jetta, they are solid and Lemforder is the OEM brand. I actually have a set of Lemforders down in the basement I bought when I was doing a suspension refresh but didn't install them. The originals are still good at 190k miles.

As far as greasing the contact surfaces and easing installation, I would recommend silicone grease. That is safest for rubber. That is also what is used on brakes typically.

Edit: Something like this, or this.

Shop ain’t giving you proper tools? Business people these days...sacrifice safety for profit. Wear gloves, hopefully they provide that. ....loosen the oil drain plug with a decent ratchet/wrench, buy this tool and keep for yourself: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
Loosen bolt rest of the way with that and you will not get a drop of oil on yourself it’ll hold the drain bolt too so that it won’t fall into your old oil collection...proper tools will help you avoid touching the hot areas of the oil pan

If you need additional sockets get harbor freight..hex set plus ratchet and extensions....safety is important.

If you have to get safety glasses too...I use them for oil changes, and if others make fun of you, ignore them.

I would also recommend a generic bluetooth adapter like the elm327 if all you want to do is be able to read/erase codes and you don't plan to use it very often. For something a little better, I'd recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539451895&sr=8-4&keywords=autel+obd2+scanner

It can read/erase codes as well as view the emissions ready monitors.

First one I ever got was an Autel MaxiScan M300. It doesn't suggest fixes, but that's what I used google for! Worked great on ever car I used it on

edit: I still use it when all I want to do is read or clear codes and not read live data

Like others said, lights (rechargeable), creeper, good jack and/or jack stands, magnet bowl, magnet's pen(see link), torque wrench, breaker bar, Car ramps. Or maybe if you have a harbor freight in your area a gift card there. I use to always buy craftsman tools but with them(sears) hurting so bad lately i have started buy HF stuff because they make warranty exchange so damn easy and stuff is cheap in price.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Dont go off the brands i linked just the type of tool itself. Also a vice, or C-clamps, or portable speaker to use while working on said car. :)

I hope this helps you some...

In general if the battery is marginal, it may affect how 'eager' the car is to start.

• in general though, the engine starter takes gobs of power, while the fuel pump and secondary ignition system making spark and so forth uses very little power, plus the alternator starts providing power the instant the engine spins up.
  
  
• if there are loose/faulty connections at the battery/alernator, those could both test fine, but either the battery is not getting properly charged or there is not enough current to start the car when needed.
  
  
• What would be ideal would be to get a voltmeter you plug into the cigarette lighter. this would show you how much battery drain you are getting over time as well as your charging voltage under all conditions.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/

You should be fine. Hook it up to a battery charger though. http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422682919&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender

Those are great to own. Really helps prolong the life of the battery.

Don't get something old from the 80's or 70's. it'll just make getting parts harder.

If you want a reliable beater that will be easy to repair get a 90's Honda. They are simple to work on, parts are plentiful, and as a daily driver they get amazing mileage. If you yet an obd2 model (96 and newer) get one of these so you can scan the codes.

this one has live data from the car, $33

This one only reads codes but gives you the definition $18

This just reads codes, nothing else. $15

If they quoted you $3200 its probably a professional scan tool, those can read anything going on in the cars computers and even take control of stuff too. If you just want to see what's causing the check engine light and of the above 3 would work.

this last one is more expensive, but it can read obd2, abs, and air bag codes. Pretty much everything the big $3k unit does.

If you are in a city you might be able to locate an auto supply store near by and sweet talk them helping you out. Or the might have something like this

I use a small 12v impact driver (brushless is better since it doesn't get weaker over time as contacts get dirty).

Or I use my 12v ratchet

This is my favorite set of wrenches They are long, have swivel heads and the way the ratcheting part protrudes on one side makes all the difference in a ton of situations.

I like sil glyde https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound/dp/B0054DWS1W

It wont damage the rubber boots like someothers such as permatex purple w/ceramic in it.

Supposedly This is the best over the counter penetrating oil you can buy. I've never used it. I personally use This.

There is a penetrant you can buy called Aerokroil that Ford recommends specifically for removal of stuck spark plugs. It is recommeded by name in the factory training video for removal of the 3 piece spark plugs that get stuck in the triton engines. This stuff is amazing.
Before you break it off, get a can of this and let it soak in for an hour or so. The plug will probably come right out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393988347&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

Leverage.


I have the matco (3x as expensive) version of all of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81230F-Polish-Handle-Ratchet/dp/B000V5G7LU/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000V5G7LU&pd_rd_r=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS&pd_rd_w=itHwF&pd_rd_wg=A03cy&psc=1&refRID=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS


I have this set and the larger set and I use the shit out of them:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85988-Ratcheting-Wrench-GearBox/dp/B000T8WFBU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509582952&sr=1-4&keywords=long+gear+wrench

Also recommend getting a Battery Tender. They're good if you leave vehicles sitting for a while, to prevent the battery from slowly discharging over time.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU

If you can get some Aerokroil. This shit is amazing, it will loosen just about anything.

If it still doesn't come out, spray it down with Aerokroil and let it sit overnight to soak in. Next day use a torch to heat up whatever the bolt is threaded into, while cooling the actual bolt with some ice. This will cause the the metal to expand and shrink, loosening the fit on them.

something like this

They are great if the power fails because you can charge your phone in your house and have it as a light.

You need something like this...https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bolt-out-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B007C6KKAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499262556&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+out+socket

Just make sure they are big enough to go around the lug...

Awesome. I'll swing by HFT to pick one up, or get one off amazon. Maybe this one.

I know about the venting, so I definitely would prefer to pay an AC shop if the system still has any pressure.

I take it that jumping the switches == shorting their terminals, not providing them with 12V as I originally assumed.

I'll see about them wiring diagrams!

I bought this one about a year ago, no complaints. Cheap. Easy to use. However, it doesn't look like it's sold directly by Amazon anymore, and I'm sometimes wary of the overseas third-party sellers. In general, you probably won't go wrong with any of the readers sold on Amazon with hundreds of good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/

MOst used tool I see is the spill free funnel for radiators: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0

Someone needs to get one of these things to fill/bleed coolant. Pretty standard stuff.

"Damaged nut extractor socket."

Amzn.com/B007C6KKAK is an example of a set.

The cheaper ones on Amazon usually work for a single use (maybe), and the inner points get flattened so they won't grip as well if you use them again. The better kits (the one I liked to is borderline) will last a long time and have a "lifetime guarranty."

He's using this electric ratchet. It's entirely unnecessary for the job. The stud has a flange that's sandwiched between the housing & the sheet metal. Loosening the nut will not loosen the stud.

More important than a fancy electric tool is the proper size socket & direction of force. I.e. Not at an angle that makes it easier to slip off & round the nut. It is easier to destroy the fastener with an electric tool if you aren't properly aligned.

First, you’re going to need a drill with a chuck instead of a 1/4” bit holder. This is a good start:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/

If you don’t have a good drill, there’s this one but you’re in for some elbow grease:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VB8JTQ/

This is what I use. I can't think of anything better. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AOgOyb0Y4T5SS

Burp it better. Borrow a bleed kit, lots of mechanics seem to skip over using them because they seem to think they are unnecessary, but I hear lots of stories about comebacks due to trapped air.

Better to know it's really bled out rather than screw up a new head job on the first hill you run into.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 something like that

You probably need to jack up the front end too.

TBH i don think that little thing will do much at most it only puts back like 4 watts under ideal circumstances. meanwhile your computer is drawing at least 40watts and phone about 5 watts.

​

​

i use something like this to monitor my battery whenever im listening to the radio or charging my computer. once it gets too low ill turn the car on for a little while. but i also pack a jump starter in all my cars just incase.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=pd_cp_107_1?pd_rd_w=bySXE&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=WT057VG43YSGXRCZH4Z2&pd_rd_r=56420b0a-67b9-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_wg=y2YGT&pd_rd_i=B000EVWDU0&psc=1&refRID=WT057VG43YSGXRCZH4Z2

Looks like you have a few codes

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html

Btw, Equus/Innova makes an EEC reader that does a phenomenal job at reading those codes out

here

It looks like the 1999 Escort uses a serpentine belt and thus does not require manual adjustment, so I doubt your belt is slipping unless certain conditions exist:

• The belt is very old and worn/cracked, or
  
• The belt tensioner isn't working properly anymore
  
  Check the belt and the tensioner first.
  
  It might be possible that your alternator is supplying too much voltage, actually. Possibly due to a faulty regulator. I'm not sure if the alternator test carried out at O'Reilly's would detect that if it's only done with the engine at idle.
  
  Apparently the '99 Escort doesn't have any battery gauge on the instrument cluster, but just an idiot light. You might want to check the voltage while driving or increasing the engine RPM to see what's actually going on.
  
  Something similar to this thing could be useful and also probably the easiest way. Alternatively, just get a volt meter and check the voltage right at the battery terminals while revving the engine.
  
  

"clean the fuel system and flush"

Unless they're removing the injectors and running them through an injector cleaning machine (strongly doubt it), I suspect they're just dumping a $13 bottle of Techron in the tank and charging you $180 for it.

The Mazda3 does not have a replaceable fuel filter. So unless they're dropping the tank, removing the pump, and replacing the filter mesh (which would probably cost well over $180), they're absolutely fleecing you. I suggest finding a different shop.

BTW, the fact that the Mazda3 doesn't have a replaceable fuel filter (just a mesh screen in the tank) should stand as encouragement to use Techron or a similar fuel cleaner additive at every oil change.

Use the 3M headlight restoring kit or order new assemblies on ebay.

3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gLhXub11M1FF3

some visual clues are:

white smoke coming from the tailpipe.
open the radiator overflow and look for bubbles when the engine is running.
when the engine running but still cold, also open the radiator cap and also look for bubbles.
if your radiator is low on fluid, its going somewhere, could be a clue.

otherwise like outflow said, the definitive way is to do a leakdown test, which requires an air compressor, a socket and ratchet to turn the crankshaft, and the tool itself. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397054273&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+leakdown+tester

I don't know. Looks unsafe. I have one of these that has got me out of a pinch several times. Stanley

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Lubricant-Multi-Purpose-Sil-Glyde-Lubricates-Prevents-Sticking-On-Rubber-Metal-Wood-Plastic/_/R-BK_7651351_0361142439

http://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating/dp/B0054DWS1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453322685&sr=8-1&keywords=sil+glyde

Start here:https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74

Napa Sil-glyde

This stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about

Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW

Best. Lube. Ever.

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bolt-out-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B007C6KKAK/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wji8wmtlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=AZTEXFQXVRFNHCGS8WC9

thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW

Here is the code reader I was looking at.

Most decent pads come with little packets of grease you can use, or you can buy a big bottle of the same stuff. Example:

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/

Add to that, have him - or better yet, do it yourself - pull codes. Those trucks were OBD-I, not II, and weren't very vocal about when something was wrong. You can do it with a paper clip and a test light, but I find it a lot less irritating to just use this reader.
And if you're planning on keeping this thing for a long time, when he gives you a list of stuff that needs to be done, instead of paying him, I recommend learning to do it yourself. Most of this stuff isn't hard if you have the tools, patience, and you aren't half assing it.

$60ish on Amazon

Unless you're really looking to dig in and learn and aren't afraid of spending $300+ in tools you'll be better off to just drop it by an auto a/c specialty shop to have it diagnosed and repaired. Most commonly the system has developed a leak which has to be identified and repaired then the system has to be vacuumed down and recharged by weight.

It's a block heater, something like this. Used to get some heat in your oil when you live where it gets really freakin' cold. Plug it into an outlet after parking, and the next morning you don't have to wait for your vehicle to warm up.

I have one on my Jeep ZJ. Comes in handy during Montana winters (and Fall, and sometimes Spring).

If your heater doesn't work you have air in the system. Did you loosen the bleeder screw above the water pump in the heater hose to let all the air out? If it doesn't have that screw take the elbow hose loose above the pump(at it's highest point) and fill till coolant comes out. Then run engine letting the thermostat cycle a few times keeping it near full each time. I've found an engine burp funnel to be very handy on that engine. Running the engine low like that can blow a headgasket or crack a head, takes a while but...

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0

Buy a leak down tester. here’s one. $70

Sorry to bother again... This looks reasonably convenient, is it more or less what we want?

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU

Engine block heater then? Or a garage?

Ill do a leak down test. Never done one before. What is your opinion on this product? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60

And yes, I could just scrap this engine and upgrade. I was excited to make this m20 into a mild stroker and want to salvage as much as possible. Also for the experience, since I'm fairly new to working on cars. But I agree that if I keep finding problems there is a point where I need to cut my losses and figure out a new plan if I ever want to get this car back on the road.

I suggest this as it can scan ABS and SRS codes and live data monitoring. I have this in my work truck at all times, just in case.

Autel MaxiLink ML619 CAN OBD2 Scanner Code Reader +ABS/SRS Diagnostic Scan Tool, Turns off Engine Light (MIL) and ABS/SRS Warning Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XH9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TLgoDbWN50SAF

I’m not a fan of the phone adapter ones myself, but I’ve heard some people like this with similar options

BlueDriver LSB2 Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5OgoDb6XGEKRR

You can get the lower tier options that can only read/erase codes but have no SRS/ABS ability for under $50.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K2goDb06ZB4RZ

Have you tested the antifreeze? Antifreeze that has been left in an engine for a long time without being changed, or had water added to bring it out of the 50-50 mix can degrade its properties. There are cheap coolant testers you can get at autoparts stores or similar area will sell them. They let you take a sample of the coolant and the float will tell you its rating. -15 is cold, if the antifreeze isn't doing it's job and freezes it can crack the block/heads and cause all kinds of trouble. Hopefully it won't be this but worth checking.

I would see if you can get a engine block warmer:

https://www.amazon.com/Zerostart-310-0057-Engine-Block-Heater/dp/B000NM2KNA

or something similar to heat the block to see if it helps.

Alternative things could be IAT sensor or any similar temperature sensor, the engine relies on this when starting to properly gauge the fuel mixture in the engine and if a temp sensor is sending out funky information it can also cause this.

Milwaukee 2457-21 3/8-in Cordless M12 Lithium-Ion Ratchet Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GKFWSS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_YjMbAb78BGHDT

I️ was looking to get an air ratchet but this is the jam. No hose to deal with no need for air and it comes with two batteries.

Seriously, get this!

Use this tool (leak down tester) http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414683096&sr=8-1&keywords=leak+down+tester

You wont be able to do a regular compression test really since you cant crank the engine when its not hooked up to a starter/battery. But the leak down tester only requires you to manually crank the engine to top dead center for the cylinder you are testing.

If the leak down test results are good, then there is no need to replace the head gaskets at all. Here is a walkthrough on how to do a leak down test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc


When buying the engine ask for what the compression is on each cylinder. some offer it up front, some do not.

Your first diagnostic should be to check the high/low pressure to make sure the compressor is compressing something.

Get one of these (or similar): http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-8205-R-134a-Manifold-Couplers/dp/B000JFHNG0

A good book for learning about how the A/C (and everything else) works is this: http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Technology-4th-James-Halderman/dp/0132542617 ($110) No, it's not cheap-- but if it saves you even one mechanic visit, it will pay for itself.

The service manual for your Civic will have specifics of the pressures you want to see, but the short version is you want to ensure that the base pressure is roughly equal to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant at the ambient temperature. On the gauge set I have this is conveniently included on the gauge itself. The low and the high port should read the same pressure when you start. If not, perhaps the engine hasn't been sitting long enough after having the AC on?

If the pressure is lower than the normal vapor pressure of the refrigerant (less than the 60-80psi range depending on temperature) then STOP. Do not add more refrigerant. You have air in the system which needs to be sucked out with a vacuum pump before you proceed. You probably want a pro to handle that for you and there are likely some other components to be replaced as well.

This guy has great writeup of the recharging process:

http://blarg.introspect.net/cars/7