Top products from r/MetalCasting

If you're doing lost pla, you need some way to burn out the pla from the investment. Since you're doing jewelry, you don't need a huge kiln, something smaller will do. I finally broke down and bought a burn-out kiln that's designed for just that kind of thing. Programmable so you can have it heat up to specific levels for specific times. I've only used this a few times, but wish I'd bought it a year ago. It's small (about the size of two toasters), but works great once you figure out how to program:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H43Q81K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The controller on this is from a third party, so if you'd rather save the money and do it yourself, you can make your own kiln.

Other than that, you need a furnace, crucible, tongs, some muffin tins, leather gloves, and propane. With the furnace, you can build your own and then swap in commercial parts later. For example, I started with this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g

but now I'm swapping out my homemade jets with:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019X6E7L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd suggest checking out lots of videos on youtube, seeing how people go through the process and noting what equipment you need. Mix and match as you go - metal casing is thousands of years old, so you don't need a huge initial outlay to get started. Would definitely still go with propane if I were to do it all over again.

that cruciable is VERY small.... you want something bigger for sure. If its a backyard forge, and you are going to be melting aluminum, you can try a cast iron crucible. you can get one on amazon... they are sold as lead melting pots for making bullets. a 10lb lead pot will hold about 2+ lbs of aluminum. Cast iron works better than steel (like old fire extinguishers). Steel will leach into the aluminum and eventually your castings will get some rusting.

As to where to cast... think of what you have as a BBQ gril... a really really high powered BBQ. anywhere you can grill, you can cast :) as you arent burning wood (I assume you arent).

You could cast on your driveway/parking lot, but you should considder opening a 50lb bag of and and pouring it into a spot and putting your furnace directly on the sand, and then another bag spread out under your pouring area incase you have any spills, the sand will keep your driveway from exploding.

I would definately think twice about casting near the snow or water. if the metal COVERs some water/snow it will turn to steam and "explode" (not really an explosion, more the steam is projecting the molten metal). if you cleared the snow, and then poured down some fresh sand, you should have a pretty dry area to pour.

edit : here is a link to a 20lb lead pot, see if it will fit your furnace : http://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-L42-006-Lead-Melting/dp/B000CNKFRI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452183743&sr=8-4&keywords=cast+iron+lead+pot

if its too big, they have 10 lb pots also.

Good luck! Glad to be of help :)

I strongly suspect it's worth adding a layer of kaowool on the outside of your kiln once it's rebuilt; that insulation will pay for itself fast. Let me know if you want help running numbers on insulation value.

Be careful with the kill-a-watt. In theory you could wire it that way, but it's only rated for 15A, not 30, and you might well fry it. If you want a wired-in meter that doesn't do watts and power factor, they're fairly cheap.

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_km5QBb3DGQ2QP

This is s product called aginate. You mix it with water 1:1 by volume and it sets into a semi solid gel. It's derived from sea weed, and is very safe. This is the sort of product used for dental molds and sets within minutes. It's perfect for casting hands.
Pro tip: a quick spray of wd40 or some other spray lubricant on your arm/hand will help reduce the number of air bubbles that cling to the skin when molding. They will come through in the cast.

Edit: this is to get a plaster original. DO NOT POUR MOLTEN METAL IN TO ANYTHING WET! This stuff might work with wax, I haven't tried.

So the burn out klin, is that purely to melt the PLA from the investment (mold?). Or would you also want to use that to melt your required metal?

As for going with Propane, that would be for the furnace to melt the metal? You prefer it over electric on something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/ProCast-Melting-Refining-Precious-Aluminum/dp/B01D7IITLS/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1542309580&sr=8-15&keywords=electric+kiln

The burnout oven is the most expensive part of the setup if your looking to make rings or other smaller stuff I would suggest you get one of these this will be my next purchase the small size and rapid heating makes it perfect for casting small pieces
https://www.amazon.com/Rapidfire-Digital-Programmable-Controller-Beadmaking/dp/B00CUKD1UY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=table+top+furnace&qid=1572903793&sprefix=table+top+fur&sr=8-4

I’m using

Hot Max 500G Big Max 500,000 BTU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

will pair it with a well insulated metal trashcan, one or two layers of ceramic blanket with satanite, and fire bricks at the bottom. Could it get as high as 2300 F? I’d rather not buy a higher range temperature gun if I don’t need to. Thanks for the help.

I use (to melt alluminum in small amounts in open air) the bernzomatic ts8000 with standard propane and a crucible i bough off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBSCMCC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1) make sure to buy boraz to season the crucible and a pair of thick proective gloves that go a decent way up your forearm, and make sure you pour into your cast over sand or dirt.

Hmm, the SmoothOn website (https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-max-60/) says it has a 560F max, and some of the pewters I find online (eg https://www.amazon.com/Pewter-Ingot-2lbs-Britannia-Alloy/dp/B01F5SBCY4) list a melting point of 563F and pouring temp of 650F.

Depending on how big you plan on going with your items, I highly recommend getting an oil-sand like petrobond.


It really drops the learning curve/complexity because there is no gas that needs to escape.

The sand can be recharged with a bit of motor oil after it gets "depeleted" but, of course, avoid breathing the fumes after you pour.

Sorry, I just got into this, and forgot to use the correct terminology. You're right, foundry.

I looked into the crucible and This is what I have decided to buy.

Two more questions if you don't mind.

• What do you use as molds for the casting?
  
  and
  
  
• What do you wear when doing work with your foundry?

I used a wooden form pressed into delf sand to make the mold. I tried making a form out of wax but it was crumbling and falling apart constantly. I hadn't heard of using foam yet.

Has anyone tried low temp moldable plastic for the form? It melts at lower than boiling water, but I'm concerned it might burn up and leave black carbonized ash embedded in the metal. If you've tried it, how did it go?

Polly Plastics Moldable Plastic Pellets. 5 lbs. In Heavy Duty Resealable Bag. Bonus Idea Booklet Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C559GC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h91vCb37W9YK3