Top products from r/Miata

I love my Hella's - they are brighter than sealed-beams, but still have a really clean cut off so I'm not blinding other drivers and getting tickets. Best $70 I've spent on the car so far.

They are plug 'n play so no modding, and they were easy to adjust to the proper height. 10/10 would recommend.

edit: as /u/AKADriver said, "halos" are trash. They look cool in pictures and don't light the road well at all (if they work). Some of the super expensive ones are fairly reliable, but still don't light the road well. The eBay ones are pure trash - you might as well light a couple hundred bucks on fire.

I agree it looks promising and the price is OKish although the remaining visible damage from the (literal!) fender bender wouldn't be cheap to fix. Rust is always the #1 concern to watch for. Seller claims none but you should confirm this yourself, especially considering your location. Look for damage behind the fender and under the hood. I'd watch for bent suspension components.

On the plus side black NA paint is single stage and oh-so-restoration friendly. Seller is correct with statements about the "Black and Tan" 1992 Miata. BBS center caps are missing, and somewhat hard/costly to obtain if you want them. Glass rear window indicates a replaced top, probably a good thing. Bonus if it includes the original boot cover because the tan ones are going up in price on eBay. I got one for $100 in June but they were all $130+ last I checked.

Ultimately this resource is the gold standard for Miata inspection: http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

Bring tools. Be careful if you pull and inspect spark plugs; do not tighten more than 11-17 ft-lbs (132-204 in-lbs). Not noted in that guide is the radiator color. Black is OK. Olive is showing age. Brown is time to replace ASAP. Miata engines do not like to overheat, so a well-sorted cooling system is critical. But replacement TYC on Amazon is affordable and easy direct swap.

Good luck! Post back with an update if you look at it or buy it.

Good choice, best colour too! Wish they did the NC2 in green...

1. Mine have never come loose, they'll probably be fine now you've tightened them. Mine clicked a bit, but not because they were loose. I put some grease in the slot and it sorted it.
   
   
2. I've never really checked! I'd imagine they should do something, right? I'll have a look at some point, but I guess check the fuses?
   
   
3. If it's the non-Bose stereo I believe you can wire something like this in (double check compatibility first, I haven't done the proper research). If it's a Bose stereo I don't know, they've a reputation of being a pain to work with.
   
   
4. They redesigned the stereo for 2009 up models, fascia etc is different so it certainly wouldn't be a totally straightforward upgrade. Has aux in as standard, which is nice. Not sure about the rest.
   
   Other than that, if she gets fed up with the absence of variable intermittent wiper speed, then get an old wiper stalk from an RX8 on eBay and replace it, it's a 5 minute job and it makes life a lot more pleasant if you drive a lot in rain. 6 speed can be a bit notchy in 1st/2nd when it's cold, upgraded gearbox oil will fix that. Other than that just make sure the alignment's good, makes a big difference. It's a pretty bombproof car, she should have lots of hassle free driving ahead!

I did one last fall in my NA without a lift, but I don't think I would have been able to do it without a trans jack. I borrowed this guy from a co-worker and it worked great. You will also need a 2 foot breaker bar, 6 point (don't use 12 points) 1/2" sockets, about 1.5 feet-2 feet of 1/2" extensions, and at least one u-joint. A flywheel holder will make your life easier when removing/re-torquing the flywheel bolts and a seal puller will help removing the front/rear trans seals and the engine's rear main seal.

Here are the steps off the top of my head:

• buy a copy of the Enthusiast's manual or a hanes manual if you want one that's NB specific. It's always nice having torque specs on hand
  
• remove center console, shift knob, and upper shift boot
  
• put car on jackstands
  
• disconnect driveshaft by unbolting the rear yolk, leave in car for now
  
• drain transmission (it will leak if you don't keep it level when you're dropping it)
  
• break free all of the bell housing, starter, and PPF bolts. I was able to do this completely from under the car on a creeper
  
• swing PPF out of the way (I was able to leave mine in the car, hanging from the rearmost diff bolt)
  
• remove drive shaft (I was able to leave my exhaust in place)
  
• unbolt/tie up the slave cylinder
  
• preload trans jack to support trans
  
• remaining remove trans bolts
  
• drop trans. This involves some wiggling while pulling it away from the engine
  
• do maintenance items (trans seals/gaskets, rear main seal, etc)
  
• resurface your existing flywheel or install a fancy new aftermarket one. Don't forget to install a new pilot and throw out bearing
  
• install new clutch on new/resurfaced flywheel using clutch alignment tool. Bolt flywheel to motor
  
• install in the reverse order

Cibie 082440 Light Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_IuQkxbCJSHRC0

You'll need two plus bulbs. Don't need any wiring harnesses or anything.

Kicker CS speaker package - Two pairs of Kicker CS Series 3.5" Coaxial speakers 40CS354 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P5ZE0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_KvQkxb28GWZ7P

These are the headrest speakers. Sound great, literally plug and play, fit in nicely as long as you remove the box the original speakers went in. Nice and loud and clear sound.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

You're looking for the suspension package. It included bilsteins and LSD. It was available as an option on any trim, but when I was shopping it seemed more popular on the loaded GT trim.

I think only the 2009- years have aux, but it's very easy to add to the 2006-2008. You can use this

I was about to buy the IL console, then I found an old post from this forum recommending this instead. It costs $8.

Arrived last week, and I've been using it ever since. Works great, looks pretty good, and I like the $292 discount.

I actually just saw this one today. Since your in oregon I would say the one plus is that he replaced the top. Another is the reasonably low miles. As for the negatives as stated before the radiator will need to be replaced very soon as it is very brown. You can get this one as it a OEM replacement but for very cheap. It is koyo brand so it is a reputable brand and you get it for 90.00 shipped. While doing that I would suggest doing the main coolant hoses as well which will be around another 100.00. I would suggest taking the stock rims and using that money towards a good set of wheels that arent 17s. With that you would be at 3000 with around 200.00 of parts to replace right away so I would ask 2700 once you take the car for a spin and go up from there because you can negotiate knowing there are things needing to replaced already. Unless there are any other noticeable things that you see wrong with it once you take a test drive 2700-2800 would be a fair price in my eyes. Also be sure he has replaced the timing belt and water pump as this is the mileage where it should have been done pretty recently.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DQV88Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

tl;dr:USD$42.26 + free shipping

Anyone done these headlight swaps before with good instructions? Is it pretty straightforward? Also is that price for the pair?

I got mine from Amazon, and it is working out great for me, they are really all the same, just find one for a good price like this

This happened to me this past winter. Exact same noise. It's the pilot bearing, which is probably frozen onto the input shaft of the tranny at this point. All you need is a new clutch. A great OEM style clutch is the EXEDY KMZ03. I used it on my 1999 and it feels great and has great reviews for longevity.

If the pilot bearing IS frozen onto the input shaft, you will know that when you try to pry the trans off of the block, and it won't go much past 3/4 of an inch. This took me weeks to figure out what was going on in the bell housing, but if you sneak a wrench through the hole that the clutch lever goes into, you can unbolt the clutch spring assembly from the pressure plate and that will allow the trans to be removed. Be very careful not to torque the trans too much when prying, as you can bend the input shaft which would leave you without a trans.

I used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the pilot bearing off of the input shaft once I got the transmission off of the block.

I hope this helps! Feel free to PM me if you need any info or pictures etc.

Edit: You will also want to get a new flywheel, or get your existing one resurfaced, depending on its wear.

Here is the link for the clutch kit, it is on sale on Amazon. Note that it does not include the flywheel, but includes all of the other necessary bearings and parts.

$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)

It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.

Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.

Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.

I've got a set of Hella super tones. Please do this the right way and use the included relay instead of just using the old stock horn wire and "splitting it."

I didn't like the air horn option because of tight mounting space in my NA. My supers are pretty loud, it'll make you jump if you're standing in front of them when I hit it. Super tone kit is also louder than air horn kit from Hella.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ7C85Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is a full reupholstery of your seats. Great for the price and fitment is perfect.

Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.

Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:
http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/miata-window-regulator-replacement-manual-power-windows/

There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.

You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.

Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.

Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn-pb_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8477664412492203526&pd_rd_wg=HdW1I&pf_rd_r=NMVKGMV6Z0D5G0F3W4ME&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00GD49GTS&pd_rd_w=kyo5x&pf_rd_i=shin+etsu+grease&pd_rd_r=1de7bf26-7283-4357-bbce-bffd9e7018c7&ie=UTF8&qid=1527641297&sr=1

Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.

You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.
https://mossmiata.com/window-bush-improved-replcmt-delrin-2

I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.

My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.

I haven't had this done yet, but what research I've done on the topic leads me to believe that you could probably shave a couple hundred off the price. Maybe start by bringing your own clutch?

From what I've heard the Exedy clutch IS the OEM part. They're pretty cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=002&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

Also: Since information is your best weapon in negotiations, here's some weaponry: http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch_replacet.html
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=427870

I was looking at doing the Cibie lights from Amazon. Sounded like they were going to be the best bang for the buck.

Cibie 82440 Light Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c8lGybA566K9Z

If the window doesn't go up, you may need a new regulator, new window guides, window alignment adjustment, or all of the above. Fortunately, it's actually a really easy job. Just make sure to have plenty of ShinEtsu grease before you do the job. I just did both windows on my 96 so PM me if you need any help.

Any idea what the difference between that and this other TYC radiator is? They've got different part numbers and about $20 difference, but comments seem to indicate they both fit the same cars (they're almost all for NB, but one guy says it fit in a 1996 M - are the radiators interchangeable or not?).

When they get brown and get kind of a spider webby look to them, they plastic is decaying and becoming brittle. It will crack any time, probably while you're out on a long drive and get the car really warmed up.

New OEM Koyo (Koyo made the factory radiator and are also a good aftermarket manufacturer) are only about $100 currently $75 from Amazon. Super simple DIY repair.

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427331153&sr=8-1&keywords=koyo+miata+radiator

It says TYC but many many Miata owners have ordered that one and it comes in a Koyo box, has Koyo marking on the part, and is exactly like the OEM radiator in every way... except not brown...

Hella Supertones, like the other guy said. I have them on my NA, they're awesome. A ton louder and attention getting than the stock "meep meep" horn they came with, even though mine are in the stock horn location behind the bumper.

The NB 5-speeds have the turret that needs oil. The 6-speed does not. I used the Ford Full Synthetic affectionately named "unicorn tears", https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82 .

You might as well do the rebuild since you're opening it up, and they will help a lot with vague shifting. I used the 5x Racing kit with the metal bushing, http://5xracing.com/i-18896895-5x-racing-shifter-rebuild-kits-for-1999-2005-mazda-miata.html?ref=category:529257 .

You could check that the clutch hydraulics are working, meaning that the pedal is moving the shift fork enough so that the clutch is fully disengaged. If not you could replace the clutch slave and/or master cylinders. However that might be fine.

What you're describing is somewhat normal or worn synchronizers in the transmission. You can try changing the fluid to (something like) this:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

Miatas are great cars especially for their light weight and suspension design, but mechanically they could use some improvement - engine, trans, etc. People rave about the Ford trans fluid.

Mine was a Bose as well. I'd highly encourage you to do the swap - modern radio features are pretty neat, and you can even put in something like this if you're feeling adventurous.

According to miata.net's audio page, the head units are all pretty similar - it seems the biggest difference is determining if you need to buy either this wiring harness or this one.

Both the head unit and the harness come with instructions on which wire carries which signal, so soldering them is simply connecting A to A. Honestly, the most difficult part of the swap I found was installing the mounting sleeve in my console - the unfinished metal edges dealt me more than a few cuts due to my stubborn refusal to protect my hands.

I spent a bit of time kicking myself for not photodocumenting the head unit installation, but ah well. There's no shortage of people willing to advise on the subject.

I used this 3M kit to restore them (which I bought when it jumped to $15 for 2 days instead of the average $10 :/) and Meguiar's Keep Clear coating.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably go with this Meguiar's kit that includes the keep clear. I say this because my wireless drill cannot hold a charge and to do both headlights it took me a long time.

I just did this in my NB for the second time and i think its the right advice.

The differntial i used Royal Purple 75W90 (i think, double check me on the weight here)
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Automotive/dp/B0007QGT34

For the transmission i finally bit the bullet and put in Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS. This shit is made from unicorn tears as far as i know.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484008625&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+motorcraft+xt-m5-qs


Do 1 quart of royal purple for the diff, and 2 quarts of ford motorcraft for the tranny.
This stuff is really expensive. You'll spend about $75 for all of it. But i can honestly say this is the smoothest my car has been since i bought it. It's like shifting in a stick of butter.

Also if your tranny oil is super shitty i've heard it can be good to run some cheaper stuff through it first, drive around on it for a month or two, then drain it and put in the good stuff. I've never done a side by side comparison though so i can't say for sure if it's required or not.

Yeah it can be hard to find sometimes. Another thing you could look into is getting new upholstery for your seats. For a whole I've thought about getting this kit. Seems to be priced well and it looks nice in all of the customer pictures.

There is a particular synthetic manual transmission fluid from Ford that everyone recommended on the forums. I bought some from my local Ford dealer (it's a bit expensive) and it felt like it helped the 1-2 shift. Read the reviews on the Amazon product page from all the miata owners. edit: it did not totally cure it, but I can get it to not crunch if I put it in gear gently and let the synchros do their thing. Still crunches with hard shifts most of the time.

Headlight went out, need to replace. Some information in my research is confusing:

• What is the most basic way/product of replacing the headlights?
  
• Are the housing and actual light bulb sold together or separate?
  
  Regarding upgrades:
  
  
• Often the phrase "conversion" is used, how is installation different from replacing with OEM bulbs and/or housing?
  
• Do lights like the Hella h4, Cibie have a shorter lifespan than the cheaper, dimmer, OEM lights?
  
• Are the upgraded lights US legal?
  
• I don't want to spend too much, I did a filter for '96 Miata, searched for Hella H4 and found this, is it the right part?
  
  Thank you.

Mine came with something like this, although mine is a bit nicer I think. Previous owner put it in i guess .
https://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH00100-BLK-1-Collapsible-Adjustable/dp/B000Q86IQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_43?ie=UTF8&qid=1550426531&sr=8-43&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=car+cup+holder
I use it every for a travel coffee mug and fold it flat when a passenger gets in. It's attached to the bottom of the plastic console lip where the passengers left knee would be

It's still $300 for cupholders. Not only that, they look like the cupholders from a mid 90's Pontiac. Two permanent bulges right next to the shifter.

Don't kid yourself, nobody is buying that monstrosity for the longer glove compartment. It's all for the cupholders.

Here's an infinitely better option. It's even adjustable so it doesn't just hold 12oz cans:

https://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH-00100-BLK-1-MUGGER-Folding/dp/B000Q86IQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493830595&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+cup+holder

Different strokes for different folks.

Google is awesome!

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Urethane-Bumper-Spoiler-Models/dp/B00FEXCKTC

A lot of people recommend the Ford Motorcraft gear oil for Miata manual transmissions. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

It's an expensive fluid, but it should help.

Here's some more reading: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=500310

Best money I've spent so far was ordering this book

http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-MX-5-Miata-1-8-Enthuasiast/dp/1845840909

Very handy and lots and lots of exploded diagrams.

I do this. It wedges between the side of the passenger seat and the centre console. Works perfectly.

I use this in my NC...if you have a cd player where the slod is not constantly being used it works great

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407860040&sr=8-2&keywords=mountek

haha, i guess so. I went with the highly recommended ford motorcraft one. Here's the link on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82 is what I use in mine and has made shifting a delight.

I got some of these

Cibie 82440 Light Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5BJQcKQ6LKShL

And I'm happy with them

It's the GV Style front lip on Amazon :)

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Urethane-Bumper-Spoiler-Models/dp/B00FEXCKTC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HVH4QC7EWP3V0VCCHSWA

I bought this wedge cupholder and its been amazing. Its a little harder for passengers to buckle their belt in but really not that bad.

http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-91125-Black-Holder/dp/B000WEPI4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373517649&sr=8-1&keywords=wedge+cup+holder

2 of these
and a set of these

H4 is simply the size of the bulb, cibie e codes are some high quality headlight standards from europe. Worth every penny for me, it feels like I am in a rally car at night,

Edit: You could also try doing an LED upgrade instead of the plug and play bulbs I linked. It requires marginally more effort, but I don't know good LEDs off the top of my head. Would require some research.

This one. Feel free to PayPal me the price difference! :P

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

This was the kit I ordered:
Mazda Miata Front Seat Cover Kit for 1990-1996 Standard Seats, Black Simulated Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ7CA4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_VVQ7wb1JY158Z
Like I said in the post it should fit better on '95 and older. It looks like the bottom seat cushion changed in '96 so it wasn't a perfect fit but I made it work.

I also needed to pick up some hog rings and pliers:
Drake Off Road PLIERSET-P Professional Hog Ring Upholstery Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FS0WFAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_DTU7wbKQEXQ9W

Trombone brush. Yes, really

This is the one I picked up from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EELFOM

Note the reviews, almost all about miatas

Unicorn Tears


HaHa! Ninja Edit

Throw out bearing. Save up for the stock replacement excedy clutch. It's 100$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5DS7K?pc_redir=1410435831&robot_redir=1

Check your year, 1.6 used a different clutch.

If you want to be really cheap you can get one of these: Linky
I had one for a while and it worked pretty good. It did break after a while but it's so cheap that you can just get another.

This kit works great and is rather cheap, only extra thing you need is a brush to agitate the cleaner.

https://www.amazon.com/1990-1996-Standard-Seats-Simulated-Leather/dp/B00HZ7CA4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=sierra+auto+miata+seats&qid=1571937578&sr=8-2

They also have a tan version. I've had mine for about 15k miles. These seat covers are very nice and I think the Amazon's reviews reflect that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPQPC?cache=4c29131d98b0cef7c9aae9d1357a4a81&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412786867&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 This one is a koyo. Make sure you get it from Amazon though.

I use these and they seem to get the job done very efficiently.

Fellow Texan here. This seems to be the most recommend stuff for the NAs. not sure if it holds true for your NB, but hey, it's a start.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIX0/51356.oap?ck=Search_pl14610_-1_-1&keyword=pl14610&ntrchngMnfctr=PUR

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOB4/11030/N1191.oap?ck=Search_N1191_MOB_-1_1010&mn=Mobil&mc=MOB&pt=N1191&ppt=C0252


http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82 - for the transmission.

Hmm. Amazon is telling me those won't fit my car. Which model did you get?

This: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-2&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

or this?: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-1&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

Amazon says these are built for the automatic gearbox models.

Aaah, 1300$ is way too much for that, my mechanic guy never saw a miata before, and he could do the job without a fuss. The miata is famous for being easy to work on. Was that OEM parts for 450$? Exedy kits are going for 120$-200$, lots of us are going with exedy

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/15-1014.html

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

Heres a cheaper option than the cibie, just as good quality. I can personally vouch for the quality of these.

Here's the Shin Etsu grease on Amazon. It's actually a Honda part and useful for all kinds of things. It has the consistency of soft butter.

If the foam is good just recover the seats

https://www.amazon.com/1990-1996-Standard-Seats-Simulated-Leather/dp/B00HZ7CA4K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543417983&sr=8-5&keywords=miata+seat+cover+kit

I got them from Amazon, but yeah, those are the ones.

Oh, nope. The 06-08 does not have an aux Jack at all. You can add one with a cable with some special connector to the back of the radio. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_.U8hzbEHA4NTM

If you aren't afraid of some wiring it's really not bad to replace a head unit and you can save yourself a bunch. If you want to have someone do it you can go to bestbuy or another store that does installs. Its a lot of wires so it looks intimidating but all you need is the head unit of your choice, the bezel or surround if you still have a factory unit and optional but I do recommend is the adapter kit to plug into the stock harness. Putting it together is as easy as matching colors and soldering or just using butt connectors. It is a fairly simple process and if you mess it up the worst that can happen is it just won't turn on.

You pick a single din head unit and these are the items you need. You can do a double din but if I remember right you need a special adapter that is a it harder to find and pricier. Or you need I think one of the Japanese tombstones.

This will surround the radio and give it a cradle so you don't have blank spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEYIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301353&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit+93&dpPl=1&dpID=41meO9lqHtL&ref=plSrch

This will plug directly into the stock plug and then you just connect the wires to the radio you pick out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BETW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301254&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41byl99kQ8L&ref=plSrch

www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qLwRCbBF096K4

I played that game everyday for a year, until I discovered this on the interwebs.

I had one of these in my car for a while, worked great for when I was alone in the car, but if I have any passengers I'll make them hold my drink

You can find replacement covers on Amazon. If you want to diy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ7C85Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_elnNzbXQG0J99

I reupholstered them myself for cheap ;)

Mazda Miata Front Seat Cover Kit for 1990-1996 Standard Seats, Tan (Saddle) Simulated Leather

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ7C85Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j-XVzbZHFN5WB

Here’s some sauce https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZ7CA4K

They aren’t anything special but they aren’t expensive either.

In action: http://imgur.com/a/5EvS0#cMQyAuc

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-91125-Black-Holder/dp/B000WEPI4M

If you're talking about the headlights, the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit works wonders and has never failed me.

> Cibie E code

Searching for this takes me to Valeo 082440 on amazon.ca (am Canadian).

Is that what I want?

Oh goodness no, I can't take credit there. I don't want to downplay the effort, it definitely takes care and patience, but the covers themselves are premade.

Here's a link to them if you're interested (again my review is that they're imperfect and not super great quality, but they do the job and are relatively inexpensive)

I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-MX-5-Miata-1-8-Enthuasiast/dp/1845840909/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330887789&sr=8-1 by rod grainger but there is also a 1.6 version.

Metra 70-7901 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this and it worked wonders.

Found those horns much cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPNC8?pc_redir=1407139270&robot_redir=1#

I know it's not all aluminum, but what do you think?

Got any links? This was the cheapest I could find.

I got one of these and attached it to the passenger side of the center console

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

​

This?

I use this one in my NC currently:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JeEUCb8WXMTKY. This is the one I bought for my 08

Cibie 82440 Light Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DGK0DbPSXKPSP


HELLA HLA-H83140101 H4 12V 60/55W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO7NGI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Headlight Auto Shut-off Module from moss Miata

Dude, Cibies. They are a known fact.

https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-82440-Light-Unit/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495682676&sr=8-1&keywords=cibie+082440

My Review:

https://www.amazon.com/review/R3RFQ9D8T3T3LS/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

Also Amazon

Why did you link to the non-prime listing?

Happy Prime Day

Mazda Miata Front Seat Cover Kit for 1990-1996 Standard Seats, Tan (Saddle) Simulated Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ7C85Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HGMrxbE6ZTZVY

I think they also make them in black!
I had it professionally installed but i know its possible to diy!

Not to debate- but the motorcraft XT-M5-QS "Full synthetic manual transmission fluid" is the "unicorn tears" fluid that most enthusiasts recommend in the 6spd. Shit is expensive tho.

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

Here is what I got. I am not sure if they have 99+ upholstery available.

https://www.amazon.com/1990-1996-Standard-Seats-Simulated-Leather/dp/B00HZ7C85Q

Sorry I took so long! Here it is https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q86IQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493519930&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=foldable+cup+holder&dpPl=1&dpID=41NcgD3GRyL&ref=plSrch

I bought this

Some people on Amazon complained about the aux hissing but I haven't heard it yet. Although the quietness of it does bother me, I may buy a separate amp/DAC to amplify the signal to the radio, it's frustrating to turn it up to 34 (max) when a couple of notches higher would make it perfect volume for any speed.

Labor sounds about right - 4 hours total work.

Your clutch kit is about $7 cheaper than my NA6 OEM clutch kit, however your kit still shouldn't cost over $300 (for an OEM kit), that's just ridiculous.

You can buy pleather replacement seat covers on amazon for $100. It looks fairly DIY and the pictures from reviewers actually look really good. Probably won't be the greatest quality and durability, but for $100 it's hard to argue.

Going to order them for myself. Here's the link.
https://www.amazon.com/1990-1996-Standard-Seats-Simulated-Leather/dp/B00HZ7CA4K

Also, a picture if you don't want to read the ad: https://i.imgur.com/x5pm9c5.png

This and this Just one word of caution DO NOT get the fabric guard on your windows it will leave a visible residue that's an absolute bitch to get off.

Cold shift: You could try changing fluid, I've heard many people get good results with Motorcraft Transmission Fluid You could also use Redline but YMMV as with anything else. However, it could also be your slave/master cylinder going bad.

To get rid of the lifter tick you could try thicker oil, or try an ATF flush and see if that helps.

The accessory belt could be squealing either from a misalignment, worn belt, or bad pulley/bearing Chrisfix has a video on how to better diagnose the issue.

Are you saying the zipper functions fine but the part you grab onto is broken? Or the other way around? Because you could just tie something on there if it's the former.