Good questions. Yes there is Testors special glue for clear parts. It's basically PVA (Elmer's) glue and it has a fairly weak hold. Wood glue is a type of PVA glue - that's probably why you read that it will work. Let me list a few other options that I use.

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1. Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer - This is like a Testor's clear parts glue (a PVA) but much stronger.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz/dp/B0006O8EVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3L2U59ZA98WJS&keywords=formula+560+canopy+glue&qid=1558440227&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+560%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3
   
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2. SuperGold + by Bob Smith Industries - This is a very strong CA glue (superglue). It's special because it's a superglue (and I think the only one too) that doesn't release fumes and won't fog up clear parts.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-139H-Super-Gold/dp/B01FWZNQ1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=supergold+%2B+glue&qid=1558440381&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell
   
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   Hope this helps

Try searching and viewing eBay's completed / sold listings only (the current auctions won't tell you anything). Unless it's something rare or special, most model kits won't fetch anywhere near their original retail price. For example, the Revell Enzo Ferrari on Amazon is $22, but this one sold on eBay for $15 ($7.99 + shipping).

Rare and vintage kits, however, can bring in a pretty penny. This MPC 1971 Dodge Demon sold for $250. This MPC Sox & Martin Duster sold for $150.

BTW, if you happen to have an original MPC Arlen Vanke Pro Stock Duster, I'll give you $3.50 for it. :)

Looks like washes and pigments. For this and a lot of the weathering I've come across, a couple simple cheap things can give a really convincing result:

• A few colors of oil paint: for example this
  
• Oil-based thinner: for example this
  
• A few colors of pastel chalk
  
  

  Washes
  

  
  Put a pea-sized drop of oil paint in a small container, add some oil-based thinner, and mix it up. You'll end up with a mixture about the consistency of milk or coffee, in whatever color you're using. (Neutral darks -- blacks/browns -- are good starting points)
  
  Now dip your brush and do a test on scrap plastic. Too thick? Add thinner to the container, re-mix, re-test. Too thin? Add paint. Once you've got it how you like it, apply it to the model. Can go heavy or light depending what you're going for.
  
  Then brush/swab the excess away, leaving behind however much you want in whatever places you want. Voila, you have washed the piece. Plus you can spot-add wherever looks good (probably don't want it too thin for this -- fuel stains, grime, oil residue, etc) then use a q-tip to blend it just right.
  
  Don't need the "system" that Vallejo/Tamiya/all the others are happy to sell you. Using basic oils gives you way more flexibility and control. And it's dirt cheap.
  
  

  Pigments
  

  
  Same idea as above: find the color(s) you like/need. Crush up a bit of the pastel, get it on the brush, dab it on the model wherever you want, however much you want. Gives a dusty/used look.

Thank you! To make the clear coat finish would I use a clear acrylic like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-X22-Gloss-Clear/dp/B0006O523U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484747292&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+clear+acrylic
Since this is my first model I want to keep it cheap. I was wondering if you have anything to say about either of these models: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DEWA6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
lastly: the Revell 302 Mustang Boss

or the Tamiya #24090 Skyline

Hi there, well, for 300$ here is what you can get:
First of, the compressor, it's quiet, it's reliable, I've had one for 2 years, still kicking and it's a good deal, 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR , that is the best for the money. Now, if you want an Iwata airbrush, start off with a Neo, this is gonna be your workhorse airbrush, the one you apply basecoats and major workloads with, when you do fnd it, don't pay more than 60$ for it, Iwata Neo, and finally, for detailing jobs like highights or if you wanna get more detailed on your work, you will need a finer needle airbrush, .03 to be exact, following the Iwata series, here is the Iwata Anest, Eclipse with a .03 needle, if you buy all 3 of these, you will have less than 300$ which you cna also spend on quick release adapters for both airbrushes: Quick release x 3, the compressor does come with a hose. Hope this helps, also, might wanna think about using Vallejo and Tamiya, since they are acrylic, they are a lot more forgiving than enamels, but that is my personal opinion.

I made a spray box out of a plastic box/tub from home Depot ($7) and a washroom box fan ($18 or so) and see extendable metal vent tubing (maybe $10,it can be extended). I also threw in a furnace filter to pick up all the paint particles. I then cut a hole in the bottom of the box and put the fan there. It works extremely well, the suction power is pro ably 10x better than the expensive spray boxes you buy elsewhere.

I think I got the idea from Google or YouTube.

edit: if you're in the USA http://www.amazon.com/Air-King-AK150LS-Energy-Deluxe/dp/B000EWEB9K/ref=sr_1_101?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421813412&sr=1-101

I use Bob Smith Industries Super Gold + Works well for me.

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https://www.amazon.com/Super-Gold-Odorless-1oz-Adhesive-Glue/dp/B0000DD1QM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=PUKNSYEBL5E8&keywords=super+gold+plus+glue&qid=1568584179&s=gateway&sprefix=super+gld+plys%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-1

Oh okay, Something probably like this then? https://www.amazon.com/3M-7512PA1-Professional-Respirator-Medium/dp/B000XBFJP2

Can you find this kit: "Joker Goon Car/Gotham City Police Car"?

$50 is pretty high though. I should have bought it when it was $15 at K-Bee.

Hey that makes two of us! I got it from amazon, it’s made by AMT model number 1074. here

Currently using this one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000RB38X8/

You need these.

https://smile.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-50628C-Sprue-Cutters/dp/B0006NDZG2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468433924&sr=8-3&keywords=sprue+cutter

There is a tutorial to scratch build an Optima battery, and it is quite simple. Let me see if I can find it.

Edit: here is a tutorial.

https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-Sports-Building-No-123-Japanese/dp/B000WN57YE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493298958&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+supra

This has detailed engine, if I recall correctly.

I've been wanting to get this:

Link

And this:

Link